[Elecraft] KPA100 and KAT100-2 in EC2

2005-07-03 Thread a.yoshida

Hi

Is there any article which describe details of building both KPA100

and KAT100-2 in a EC2 enclosue.

I hope to operate my K2 with this unit.

Thanks

73 de aki, ja1nlx
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~yy7a-ysd/
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[Elecraft] K2 #4990

2005-07-03 Thread Vicenç
Hello all

Yesterday I started building my third K2. This one obviously not for me
but for a friend who was very excited to own this little gem. I have
just built the control board and front panel board and hope to undertake
alignment and test part I this afternoon. Until now and like with the
other K2s everything going flawless and with no troubles. I would like
to finish this K2 just before my summer holidays to allow Xavier,
EA3FTJ, to enjoy it as soon as possible. I am sure he will be delighted
with it. K2 #4990 will have as options the KNB2 and KAF2 as far as
Xavier is 100% CW. I adviced him to take only those options and try the
basic K2 running 10 to 15W (in any case he would be able to upgrade to
the K2/100 at any moment). I will let you know about the progress.

Best 72 de Vicenç, EA3ADV
EA-QRP #4
G-QRP #7384
ARCI #8454


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[Elecraft] 10 Days until Deadline for TAC Sprint Logs

2005-07-03 Thread Ron Polityka

Hello,

If you made a few contacts in this years TAC Sprint, please send me your 
log.


I will figure out your score for you.

I will need your name, call, log, power out, radio used and QTH.

The deadline is July 12th for all entries. Check out www.n3epa.org for a 
list of logs already received. Click on TAC Sprint and then on the results.


Have a Great 4th of July!!

72
Ron de N3EPA
EPA QRP Club El Presidente'
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.n3epa.org 



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 C78 for 80 Meters

2005-07-03 Thread Mike Morrow
David wrote:

 My K1, once built, will be capable of all six bands.  With that being said,
 If this capacitor is to help with 80 Meters, what does it do to performance
 if I don't have the band module that contains 80 installed? 

True, C78 and RFC8 are normally included only with the 80m filter board parts, 
but they are appropriate for *all* bands.  It would be better for Elecraft to 
simply supply them with the basic K1.

So have no qualms...even if you never use 80m.  If you have them, install C78 
and RFC8 when building the RF board right from the start.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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RE: [Elecraft] k2#4877

2005-07-03 Thread Dan Barker
The kit comes with a RIT Centering tool. It looks very similar to an allen
key g.

Center the rit (by ear), loosen the set-screw, align the index hash at 12
O'clock, and tighten the set-screw.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

snip
I want to calibrate my rit/xit on center again.
/snip

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[Elecraft] Five hours to K2

2005-07-03 Thread Cortland Richmond

When I bought the raffle ticket a month ago it was just helping out a club.
I was already planning on buying a rig to replace a dying one (still got it
apart).  I did, too, a Yaesu FT-920 that we used at FD for CW and which is
a very nice radio indeed. However... THAT radio had a 30 day warranty and
is is now on its way back to Yaesu for repair. 

So when I got the E-mail it was good timing. Great timing, in fact. 

Thanks, SBARA!

I don't know what mike pinout the builder wired this K2 for, but a key will
work right out of the box.  I think I'll try a little HF Pack operation
right there at the Burger place!

Anticipating...

Cortland
KA5S


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 and KAT100-2 in EC2

2005-07-03 Thread Steven Pituch
Dear Aki,
This is the best:
http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html

Also see:
http://home.pacbell.net/johngreb/k2_100_in_ec2.pdf

Regards,
Steve, W2MY


a.yoshida wrote:
 Hi
 
 Is there any article which describe details of building both KPA100
 
 and KAT100-2 in a EC2 enclosue.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 and KAT100-2 in EC2

2005-07-03 Thread JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD
The best hard case I found for a KX1 is a Pelican Microcase 1060...  
tough case for sharp rig !!!


See photo os the microcase and KX1

http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum29.html

73


Le 05-07-03 à 09:57, Steven Pituch a écrit :


Dear Aki,
This is the best:
http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html

Also see:
http://home.pacbell.net/johngreb/k2_100_in_ec2.pdf

Regards,
Steve, W2MY


a.yoshida wrote:


Hi

Is there any article which describe details of building both KPA100

and KAT100-2 in a EC2 enclosue.


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==

Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ

==


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RE: [Elecraft] k2#4877

2005-07-03 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Dan and all,

There is a more certain method of centering the RIT than 'by ear'.  Watch
the display while turning the RIT on and off, when the two frequencies
agree, it is centered.
You don't need to repeatedly turn RIT on and off to do that either - just
look at the frequency with RIT off and turn RIT on and adjust for the same
frequency on the display.

After doing that, one may want to loosen the knob and turn it a bit if the
real center point is not lined up with the panel marking.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 The kit comes with a RIT Centering tool. It looks very similar to an allen
 key g.

 Center the rit (by ear), loosen the set-screw, align the index hash at 12
 O'clock, and tighten the set-screw.

 Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

 snip
 I want to calibrate my rit/xit on center again.
 /snip


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[Elecraft] TRN Issues

2005-07-03 Thread Gregg W6IZT
I am experiencing a problem when trying to use TRN2 or TRN3. When I set the
RF frequency to 144 MHz via the menu. The displayed frequency is 130 MHz.
Neither TRN2 or TRN3 work on TX or RX

Both my XV50 and XV144 work fine on TRN1

Any help is greatly appreciated

Gregg

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[Elecraft] Peter Halpin

2005-07-03 Thread Doc
I just wanted to say that Pete will be missed. He was a great guy that I was
lucky to have known. He sold me his K2/100 and we continued to talk
afterwards. God Bless you Pete.

 

D

 

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[Elecraft] K1

2005-07-03 Thread John Harden, D.M.D.
Just finished a K1 4-band transceiver kit. It receives on all 4 bands.
However it transmits on only 30, 20 and 15 meters. I'VE EASILY MADE A
NUMBER OF CONTACTS ON 20 AND 15 METERS.

For some reason I get the 0.1 power level 0n 40. CL and CM are 120 pfd
as specified. 

Any ideas before I do a complete signal trace?
 

73,

John, W4NU
Atlanta


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[Elecraft] K2 #4990

2005-07-03 Thread Vicenç
Hit o all the crew

K2 #4990 passed alignment ant test part I with no troubles. Will start
building the 40m RX soon. I'll keep you informed.

Best 72 de Vicenç, EA3ADV


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[Elecraft] Interesting Tuner applet

2005-07-03 Thread Dan Barker
I broke your tuner!

snip
W9CF wrote a fun little T-match simulator that gives you a front-panel view
of a tuner. You plug in the impedance you want to match and press Autotune,
and it'll find the match and give you the circuit loss. And you can spin the
dials manually and enjoy watching the SWR bounce around G It's at:
http://fermi.la.asu.edu/w9cf/tuner/tuner.html
/snip

I find the applet very interesting. I also find it extremely difficult to
get a match (just like in real life). What this tells me is that I don't
know how to use a tuner!. I setup several impedance/frequency settings, and
failed on all but 1 to get anywhere near the ideal match. The one I did
find, the Autotune misses. Maybe Kevin needs to tweak his algorithm. I KNOW
I need to tweak my on-air algoritym. Anyone got any rules-of-thumb for
getting a match?

The problem I stumbled on (the ONLY one where I beat the machine) was:
R 100, X 75, F 14.050.

I got:
 210pf, 1.6mH, 250pf, 1.0:1, 0.9%, 0.0db.

The machine gets:
 162pf, 0.8mH, 77pf, 1.0:1, 2.2%, 0.1db.

Further, maybe I didn't beat the machine. It does it with less inductance,
but I get less loss. Isn't less loss better?

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

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RE: [Elecraft] Accurate QRP Wattmeters?

2005-07-03 Thread Chuck Gehring
The Elecraft Mini-Module DL1 Dummy Load has test points that allow you to
use a DMM to measure out put.  I can't imagine anything in that price range
being more accurate
73, KI4DGH
Chuck Gehring

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of J. Coote
Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 12:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Accurate QRP Wattmeters?


Hello List,
I've posted my question on QRP-L and here as well- since I will be building
a KX-1.
I am looking for good ways to measure power output from my KX-1 while I am
building it.
What first came to mind was to set up my Tek 492 analyzer on a 2 dB scale
and then use
a 30 or 40 watt (high power) attenuator to measure CW power.  I have several
Bird 43's
but have never seen Bird slugs for QRP LF, MF or HF.  I think a competing
company may
have a through wattmeter with HF but I forget the lowest scale of that one.
I have read
the E-Ham reviews for the Oak Hills QRP wattmeter-  300 Khz to 54 MHz and
100mW, 1W and 10W
scales- still thinking over the reviews.

Comments on the accuracy of using the Tek 492 method, and on other accurate
wattmeter options?

73
Jay
W6CJ
AAR9QM


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[Elecraft] butternut

2005-07-03 Thread kc5wa
I am wondering if anyone is using  Butternut Verticals (HF6V  HF9V) for 
their K2's at their home QTH and how effective have they been? Thanks 
rc kc5wa



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Re: [Elecraft] butternut]

2005-07-03 Thread David F. Reed


RC,

I have used them in the past, and found that if you really have a good 
ground (highly conductive) or lots of radials per band, they are fairly 
good.


Otherwise, much of your RF goes into heating the ground (good for the 
worms, less good for your signal).  If you can get plenty of radials or 
have a very conductive ground (and much of Louisiana does), you will 
likely be happy with them; if not, you will be happier with a dipole or 
a long wire (and a good ground).


Of course, any antenna works better in the clear and with a good ground.

Consider what the local hams are happy with as part of the equation, and 
what their communications objectives are; local, medium distance, or DX, 
and how do their goals match yours?


On the average, antennas are the best investment a ham can make; you 
communicate better and further on average with a poor rig and a good 
antenna than with a great rig and a lousy antenna.  And, they are a 
double gain; they help both TX and RX, unlike more power.


kc5wa wrote:

I am wondering if anyone is using  Butternut Verticals (HF6V  HF9V) 
for their K2's at their home QTH and how effective have they been? 
Thanks rc kc5wa



Sometimes I like a really simple inverted L, as high as I can get it, 
and a counterpoise, under it, grounded at both ends...


  -o
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 | |---|
 | |   |  --to grnd rods---  |
tuner

Its cheap, and usually works fairly good.

73 de W5SV, Dave

- 
David F. Reed  - W5SV - cell: 512 585-1057


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[Elecraft] [Fwd: HF9V]

2005-07-03 Thread William E. Twaddell


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RE: [Elecraft] Accurate QRP Wattmeters?

2005-07-03 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Jay,

I may have answered this already on QRP-L, but I find the most accurate way
to determine power output is to use a good 50 ohm resistive load (check it
with an antenna analyzer or use the Elecraft DL1).  Measure the RF voltage
across the 50 ohm load (RF Probe reads in Vrms while a 'scope will show you
Vp-p), then calculate the power.  I use this procedure to calibrate or check
wattmeters.  I don't trust any wattmeter (including a Bird) until I have
verified that it is reading correctly - some can be off by as much as 20%
and still meet their specs (2 watts on a 10 watt scale, 20 watts on a 100
watt scale), and I can get MUCH closer than that with my known good dummy
load.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 Hello List,
 I've posted my question on QRP-L and here as well- since I will
 be building
 a KX-1.
 I am looking for good ways to measure power output from my KX-1 while I am
 building it.
 What first came to mind was to set up my Tek 492 analyzer on a 2 dB scale
 and then use
 a 30 or 40 watt (high power) attenuator to measure CW power.  I
 have several
 Bird 43's
 but have never seen Bird slugs for QRP LF, MF or HF.  I think a competing
 company may
 have a through wattmeter with HF but I forget the lowest scale of
 that one.
 I have read
 the E-Ham reviews for the Oak Hills QRP wattmeter-  300 Khz to 54 MHz and
 100mW, 1W and 10W
 scales- still thinking over the reviews.

 Comments on the accuracy of using the Tek 492 method, and on
 other accurate
 wattmeter options?

 73
 Jay
 W6CJ
 AAR9QM

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Re: [Elecraft] butternut

2005-07-03 Thread Ron Polityka

Hi RC,

Check out my web site. www.wb3aal.com

The Butternut HF9V works great with the K2. First QSO was with a VK3 station
and then a JA3. That was last year around this time.

72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
www.wb3aal.com
www.n3epa.org/

- Original Message - 
From: kc5wa [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 5:12 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] butternut


I am wondering if anyone is using  Butternut Verticals (HF6V  HF9V) for 
their K2's at their home QTH and how effective have they been? Thanks rc 
kc5wa



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Re: [Elecraft] Accurate QRP Wattmeters?

2005-07-03 Thread Larry Phipps


Jay, the Tek 492 will do the job IF you have an accurate way of 
calibrating it and IF you know exactly the attenuation at all 
frequencies of interest of the attenuator you will be using. I'm not 
familiar with the '492... I have a 7L13, and on the 2dB scale the 
divisions are .4dB.. which are pretty big steps.


Don is right about the dummy load method, but first you have to 
determine the actual Z of the dummy load at all frequencies if you want 
to be within a couple percent. The resistors in the Elecraft dummy load 
are 5% metal film, so statistically, the average Z will probably be 
better than 5%, but unless you can measure it, you won't know. You also 
have to take into account the diode drop in the Elecraft to wring out 
the last bit of accuracy.


Anything better than 5% absolute power accuracy, BTW, is wishful 
thinking on the part of manufacturers. Be advised too that even the 
Birds are rated at 5% of FULL SCALE... meaning ~ 10% of half-scale if 
that's where your reading happens to be... and that's best case with a 
purely resistive load.


In develping my LP-100 wattmeter kit (more on my website), I learned a 
lot about power accuracy. It's a very elusive thing. My meter is 
accurate within a couple % of the calibrating standard at any power 
level from .1 milliwatt to 2500 watts... but ultimately, the accuracy of 
the standard determines the overall accuracy of the meter.


In my shop, I can measure power to better than .001dB on a relative (not 
absolute) basis with my HP VNA, but it still all comes down what you're 
measuring against. One thing I can do, and have done for my own use is 
create Z vs. freq charts for all my precision loads (and Cantenna and 
other non-precision loads as well). These charts are accurate to better 
than 1%.


As part of my LP-100 project, I plan to offer a 50W precision dummy load 
using thick film metal power resistors mounted on a heatsink to allow 
easy calibration of the meter. It would be a nice addition to any shack. 
I will provide a custom chart of Z vs. frequency for each one. It will 
be similar to the Elecraft DL1 in operation, but will use precision 
parts and come with the custom charts. I am also thinking of making a 
version of the dummy load with digital readout for power that comes 
already calibrated. It would be considerably simpler than the LP-100, 
and would not be a thru-line device, so would not measure SWR, etc.


In the meantime, if you have a DL1 and want me to run a custom chart for 
you, send it with return postage and I will chart it for you.


Larry N8LP
www.telepostinc.com/n8lp.html

J. Coote wrote:


Hello List,
I've posted my question on QRP-L and here as well- since I will be building
a KX-1.
I am looking for good ways to measure power output from my KX-1 while I am
building it.
What first came to mind was to set up my Tek 492 analyzer on a 2 dB scale
and then use
a 30 or 40 watt (high power) attenuator to measure CW power.  I have several
Bird 43's
but have never seen Bird slugs for QRP LF, MF or HF.  I think a competing
company may
have a through wattmeter with HF but I forget the lowest scale of that one.
I have read
the E-Ham reviews for the Oak Hills QRP wattmeter-  300 Khz to 54 MHz and
100mW, 1W and 10W
scales- still thinking over the reviews.

Comments on the accuracy of using the Tek 492 method, and on other accurate
wattmeter options?

73
Jay
W6CJ
AAR9QM


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Re: [Elecraft] Accurate QRP Wattmeters?

2005-07-03 Thread Tom McCulloch

Chuck and all.

 Can you tell me if you need to use an RF probe along with the DL-1, or is 
the circuitry built into the DL-1 and you can just use the DMM probes?


Thanks.
Tom
WB2QDG

- Original Message - 
From: Chuck Gehring [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: J. Coote [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 5:10 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Accurate QRP Wattmeters?



The Elecraft Mini-Module DL1 Dummy Load has test points that allow you to
use a DMM to measure out put.  I can't imagine anything in that price 
range

being more accurate
73, KI4DGH
Chuck Gehring

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of J. Coote
Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 12:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Accurate QRP Wattmeters?


Hello List,
I've posted my question on QRP-L and here as well- since I will be 
building

a KX-1.
I am looking for good ways to measure power output from my KX-1 while I am
building it.
What first came to mind was to set up my Tek 492 analyzer on a 2 dB scale
and then use
a 30 or 40 watt (high power) attenuator to measure CW power.  I have 
several

Bird 43's
but have never seen Bird slugs for QRP LF, MF or HF.  I think a competing
company may
have a through wattmeter with HF but I forget the lowest scale of that 
one.

I have read
the E-Ham reviews for the Oak Hills QRP wattmeter-  300 Khz to 54 MHz and
100mW, 1W and 10W
scales- still thinking over the reviews.

Comments on the accuracy of using the Tek 492 method, and on other 
accurate

wattmeter options?

73
Jay
W6CJ
AAR9QM


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RE: [Elecraft] Accurate QRP Wattmeters?

2005-07-03 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Tom,

I believe I can answer that - the only thing you need with the DL1 is a DVM
and you can either use the formula or the graph from the manual to determine
the power.

In other words, yes the circuitry is built into the DL1, but a caution, you
will find the formula a bit different than the normal because the diode
probe circuitry is connected across half the load rather than across the
full 50 ohms.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Chuck and all.

   Can you tell me if you need to use an RF probe along with the
 DL-1, or is
 the circuitry built into the DL-1 and you can just use the DMM probes?

 Thanks.
 Tom
 WB2QDG


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[Elecraft] Internal battery question

2005-07-03 Thread Charles B. Wilber
I recently installed the KBT2 internal battery kit in my K2. I bought this kit
from a ham in Australia who had installed it in his K2 and later removed it.
Consequently, it had been all assembled prior to my receiving it. I had only to
move the various components to my existing cover, mount the connector jack on
the main circuit board and plug everything in. I charged the battery overnight
and read a voltage of 12.5V the next morning. I then removed the external power
supply and turned the K2 on. With the backlight turned off (LCD = Day) and the
AF gain at 33% volume, the battery voltage dropped from 12.5 volts to 9.3 volts
in four hours.

After receiving the kit, I left it on my shelf for almost a year before doing
anything with it. When I finished installing it in my K2 a couple days ago, the
battery voltage was 8.9 volts before I charged it up. Given the relatively rapid
rate at which the battery seems to have been depleted, I am wondering if sitting
on the shelf for a year at a charge below 10 volts has ruined the battery.
Should I assume it has and just buy a replacement battery?

73,
Charlie
N1AOK
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Re: [Elecraft] Internal battery question

2005-07-03 Thread Randy Rathbun
I have a bunch of gel cells sitting around here that have been  
subjected to stress like that and yeah, they go down in efficiency,  
but I sure would not throw them out if they are working. I might not  
get as good a time as if I had taken care of them, but they are still  
useful.


Unless it is really bothering you, I would continue to use the thing.

Randy Rathbun
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


On Jul 3, 2005, at 10:19 PM, Charles B. Wilber wrote:

I recently installed the KBT2 internal battery kit in my K2. I  
bought this kit
from a ham in Australia who had installed it in his K2 and later  
removed it.
Consequently, it had been all assembled prior to my receiving it. I  
had only to
move the various components to my existing cover, mount the  
connector jack on
the main circuit board and plug everything in. I charged the  
battery overnight
and read a voltage of 12.5V the next morning. I then removed the  
external power
supply and turned the K2 on. With the backlight turned off (LCD =  
Day) and the
AF gain at 33% volume, the battery voltage dropped from 12.5 volts  
to 9.3 volts

in four hours.

After receiving the kit, I left it on my shelf for almost a year  
before doing
anything with it. When I finished installing it in my K2 a couple  
days ago, the
battery voltage was 8.9 volts before I charged it up. Given the  
relatively rapid
rate at which the battery seems to have been depleted, I am  
wondering if sitting
on the shelf for a year at a charge below 10 volts has ruined the  
battery.

Should I assume it has and just buy a replacement battery?

73,
Charlie
N1AOK
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net report for July 3rd 4th, 2005

2005-07-03 Thread Kevin Rock
Another two sessions of the Elecraft CW Net were run this evening.  The 
bands were not as good as I had hoped.  Forty was especially tough due to 
the storms in the heartland.  But Ken, out camping, had a very good 
signal.  Not to be outdone however, was a new comer from Bozeman, MT N7GS 
with a fine signal from his K2.  Welcome to ECN.  Welcome back to Jerry; 
it has been a long time and with a new KX1 too.


On 14050 kHz at 2300z:
N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - 008
VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968
KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798
K6III - Jerry - CA - KX1 - 1101
W0QQS - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646

On 7045 kHz at 0200Z:
N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - 008
N7GS - Mal - MT - K2 - 456
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031
VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968
N7AF - Dave - AZ - K2 - 4795   QNI #10

Thanks to all who were able to join us and sorry to those who listen but 
could not hear either Tom or myself.  There were a few close to subliminal 
stations out there but even waiting for some helpful QSB was not enough to 
bring them out.  Ric made it the second time on a wing and a prayer.  But 
V??XL is enough for me ;)


Can't wait to see the effect of the probe on the comet this evening.  
Should have been shortly before the second net if my timing is correct.  
Too light for us to see it on the West Coast but maybe in EU.


Please be careful tomorrow.  Pat and I will be at the beach eating a 
little seafood and camping for an evening.  I'll take a rig out with a 
vertical wire and my homebrew ATU.  Maybe my might 5 watts will work on 
80, 40, 30, or 20 meters or maybe I will just listen.  But you never know 
unless you try.

   73 all,
  Kevin.   KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)


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RE: [Elecraft] Internal battery question

2005-07-03 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Charlie,

It is likely that you ddid not have the battery fully charged.  What was the
voltage out of your power supply - a standard 13.8 volt supply will not
adequately charge the battery (see the Elecraft internal battery manual).

Before you give up on the battery, try putting a 14.3 volt power supply on
the K2 and let the battery charge up for several days, even a week.  If the
battery is at full charge, you should see a bqttery terminal voltage of 13.8
volts (float voltage) while the battery is connected to the power supply -
it will drop a bit after removing the power supply, but not more than a
volt.  Charge it until that condition comes valid.  After that, you can
evaluate the discharge cycle and compare with the Panasonic typical
performance data for that battery.  If the discharge cycle on your battery
is significantly shorter than normal, you may want to replace it - examine
your needs (portable operation duration, etc.) and decide if the current
battery will suffice for your needs.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I recently installed the KBT2 internal battery kit in my K2. I
 bought this kit
 from a ham in Australia who had installed it in his K2 and later
 removed it.
 Consequently, it had been all assembled prior to my receiving it.
 I had only to
 move the various components to my existing cover, mount the
 connector jack on
 the main circuit board and plug everything in. I charged the
 battery overnight
 and read a voltage of 12.5V the next morning. I then removed the
 external power
 supply and turned the K2 on. With the backlight turned off (LCD =
 Day) and the
 AF gain at 33% volume, the battery voltage dropped from 12.5
 volts to 9.3 volts
 in four hours.

 After receiving the kit, I left it on my shelf for almost a year
 before doing
 anything with it. When I finished installing it in my K2 a couple
 days ago, the
 battery voltage was 8.9 volts before I charged it up. Given the
 relatively rapid
 rate at which the battery seems to have been depleted, I am
 wondering if sitting
 on the shelf for a year at a charge below 10 volts has ruined the battery.
 Should I assume it has and just buy a replacement battery?


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[Elecraft] thanks

2005-07-03 Thread kc5wa
Thanks to everyone who answered my questions on the Butternut HF6V  
HF9V Antennas.

Now I need to decide which one...
rc kc5wa


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