Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2005-08-20 Thread Rick Dettinger
Hi Tom - I don't think you mentioned what bands you intend to use  the
antenna for.  If just 40M, then you may do as well with coax and not need
the tuner.  If you use it for an all band doublet, the tuner may have
difficulty on some bands depending on the impedence and the lenght of the
feedline.  Without the balun,  you may have radiation from the feedline,
which may not be a problem or it may cause problems in the shack with RF
getting into equipment or noise on receive if the source is near the rig.  I
use a doublet but I increased the lenght to 88 ft and the k2 handles it well
on most bands.  I plan to increase the lenght to 100 ft to get better
efficiency on 80 meters.  I use a 1 to 1 balun.  A 4 to 1 balun may work
better on some frequencies but would likely give less efficiency on 80
meters due to low radiation resistance.  Finally, changing the lenght of the
feed line can improve the match on some bands with a possible worse match on
others.  Multiband antennas are always a compromise and experimenting may be
required.Rick - K7MW
Original Message -
From: "Tom McCulloch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 6:57 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna question


> Hi all,
>   I'm considering putting up a 40 meter dipole fed with a 450 ladder line.
> I have a K2 which I run at about 5 to watts (I do not have the 100 watt
> amp).  The K2 also has the internal ATU.
>
>   I have always used 50 ohm coax up until now.  Is there anything I should
> know about using the K2 with 450 ohm feedline?  (Will I need a balun, or
can
> I just feed the ladderline directly to the K2's ATU and that will take
care
> of the match.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Tom, WB2QDG
>
> K2 1103
>
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2005-08-20 Thread Kevin Rock

Good Evening Folks,
   Another week has passed; a hectic one for me.  I just got home from a 
50th wedding anniversary get together for some friends of mine.  Very nice 
to see them looking so fit and happy.


   Tomorrow there will be another running of the weekly ECN.  I'll be on 
hand to get the ball rolling and then pass the NCS hat around the country 
a bit.  Twenty meters was very nice and quiet on Friday presaging 
hopefully good conditions for tomorrow.  Mr. Hammond has thrown his hat 
into the ring once again to work from Mid MO back toward the West where I 
cannot work and then off to the East and where ever his beam may point.  
Now that the Summer Fox Hunt is history let's make a little ionizing 
radiation of our own to tell folks how much we enjoy CW.


   Please join us:
Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4pm PDT) 14050 kHz
Visit our web site: http://ecn.visionseer.com/ for net details.  Thank you 
Dan.


If you feel unsure of your CW speed this is the place to start.  We work 
all check ins until the last one is worked or I get dragged off for dinner 
;)  Remember if you can hear someone checking in but you cannot hear us 
please ask them to relay for you.  We've got time.  Nothing special, 
simply weather reports, sending kids off to college, or how the BBQ is 
going in this Summer's heat.  If you are new to the net we'll ask your 
name, state, rig type, and serial number.  If you don't have an Elecraft 
rig you can check in but you'll start itching to solder one up and get it 
on the air.  I promise!


See you tomorrow evening for a little fun CW,
Kevin.  KD5ONS


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[Elecraft] Antenna question

2005-08-20 Thread Tom McCulloch

Hi all,
 I'm considering putting up a 40 meter dipole fed with a 450 ladder line. 
I have a K2 which I run at about 5 to watts (I do not have the 100 watt 
amp).  The K2 also has the internal ATU.


 I have always used 50 ohm coax up until now.  Is there anything I should 
know about using the K2 with 450 ohm feedline?  (Will I need a balun, or can 
I just feed the ladderline directly to the K2's ATU and that will take care 
of the match.


Thanks for your help.

Tom, WB2QDG

K2 1103 


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RE: [Elecraft] w1 and 160 module

2005-08-20 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
George,

Sorry, but no - the entire K160RX will not work, and that means no RF output
on 160 meters even if the K2 says it is operating on 160 meters.

If you do not wish to use the RX jack, just leave the BNC connector off -
but then, it is not hard to put it on, so why not just do the complete job?
The RX ant will not be active until you turn it on in the K2 menu.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> If I  didnt want to use the 160 rx connector, could you leave w1 in
> place with no ill effect?
>
> George NE2I
>
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[Elecraft] FS KAT100

2005-08-20 Thread Brent Sutphin WB4X
I have a newly built KAT100 that I would like to sell.  I built this one to 
sell, the invoice is dated 8-4-05. It is new, works great and has no 
scratches, dents or dings.  Price is $275 shipped to your door.  Contact me 
off list for payment details.


Thanks
Brent  WB4X 



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RE: [Elecraft] Downloadable Rework Eliminators(TM) User's Guide

2005-08-20 Thread Gary Hvizdak
Chuck Gehring wrote:

Gary what mode of shipment did you use US Postal or UPS?  No worries I am
sure it will be here in a couple of days just wondering.
73, KI4DGH
Chuck Gehring


Hi Chuck,

I apologize for not making this more clear in my post, and
appreciate that you wrote for clarification.

Your order for our "Deluxe Package" which includes the printed
User's Guide, was shipped via US Priority Mail on Friday.  You will
certainly have it by Monday, while some may have received theirs
today.

It was just the orders for our "Boards & Parts Kit" (which were
shipped on Thursday) to which I was referring in my post.  These
orders only have a single sheet of assembly instructions "taken" from
the User's Guide.

I made my earlier post mainly to inform those receiving these kits
(without the benefit of the guide) to know about the availability of
this PDF version via download from our website.  At the same time I
also wanted everyone else who ordered a "package" to know about the
PDF, so they could see what would be arriving in Monday's mail.

--- - - - ---

Like you, most people ordered the "package" with the printed and
bound copy of the User's Guide.  The guides only got back from the
printer here in Melbourne on Wednesday and they were then sent
overnight to Ken in New York, arriving there Thursday afternoon.  Ken
had all of the orders ready to ship as soon as the guides arrived, so
they all went out in Friday's mail.

Once again, Ken and I sincerely thank everyone for their order and
equally for their patience.

73,
Gary, KI4GGX
K2 #4067

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[Elecraft] w1 and 160 module

2005-08-20 Thread George Cortez
If I  didnt want to use the 160 rx connector, could you leave w1 in 
place with no ill effect?


George NE2I


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Keyboard Theory

2005-08-20 Thread Matt Osborn
The processor polls U2 to get the current configuration of the
switches.

Pin 1 of U2 is pulled low which then loads the state of D0 thru D7
(/BANK1 and /BANK2 select which switches to read), The serial data is
then read from U2 via pin 9 by the control board MCU, U6.

On Sat, 20 Aug 2005 12:47:14 -0700 (PDT), [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>Good day all!
> I was trying to understand how the keyboard signaled the controller
>processor that a new key was punched but to no avail. Also, the shift
>reg. (U2) notes which keys are pushed but I can't see how this works. The
>inputs of U2 are pulled up with external 100k r's but the input of U2
>being a 'hc device loads the input circuitry very very little and so the
>input would never go to a low logic level.
> I take it that until the processor is some how notified that a key is
>pushed, it remains in sleep mode. Hard for me to understand without some
>help but I'm sure, you guys have the answers.
> Thanks for any encouragement, Bob K7HBG
>
>
>
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RE: [Elecraft] KAT100 Won't Tune When IC706 Also Turned On

2005-08-20 Thread Gottlieb, Jonathan
Here is the set up:  Two antennas come into the house to an MFJ two position 
switch, antenna A and B.  A three foot run of RG8X goes to a second MFJ two 
position switch, Xcvr A is K2, Xcvr B is IC-706.  That's it.  I set the antenna 
switch to antenna A or B, and then choose which xcvr to use, the K2 or the 706. 
 When I switch between the xcvrs, one is connected directly to the antenna, and 
the other is switched out of line.  

Jonathan 
WA3WDK  

-Original Message-
From: W3FPR - Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 4:29 PM
To: Gottlieb, Jonathan; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KAT100 Won't Tune When IC706 Also Turned On


Jonathan,

We need to understand your setup with the new switch included a bit better
before giving a proper answer, but I will 'go out on a limb' and make some
assumptions to see if it provides you with a quick answer.

Where did you put the switch?  If it is between the K2/100 and the KAT100,
that would be a reasonable explaination for your problem - the KAT100 must
be connected to the K2 on both the coax and the interconnecting cable to
tune properly (RF must flow during the tune operation).  The switch must go
on the antenna side of the KAT100 - and if it is located there and the 706
is connected to the antenna for receive, you will attempt to tune the KAT100
into an open circuit if the K2 TUNE button is pressed.

Another possible answer (guess) is that the 706 is putting DC on the coax
(for use with an external preamp maybe?) and somehow interferes with the
tuner operation.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> Any thoughts on this one:  Today I hooked up an antenna switch so
> I could run the K2/100 and the ICOM 706 and switch between them
> and use one or the other when I want to.  Both radios run off the
> same Astron SS-25 power supply.  When I have the 706 turned on
> and RX only, the KAT100 will not tune 40 or 80 meters.  If I turn
> off the 706, the KAT100 works perfectly.  It tunes all other
> bands with the 706 turned on. The 706 is only receiving so I
> wouldn't think it would be drawing enough current to effect the
> K2.   Any ideas on this gremlin?
>
> Jonathan Gottlieb
> WA3WDK
> K2/100 #4856
>
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RE: [Elecraft] KAT100 Won't Tune When IC706 Also Turned On

2005-08-20 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Jonathan,

We need to understand your setup with the new switch included a bit better
before giving a proper answer, but I will 'go out on a limb' and make some
assumptions to see if it provides you with a quick answer.

Where did you put the switch?  If it is between the K2/100 and the KAT100,
that would be a reasonable explaination for your problem - the KAT100 must
be connected to the K2 on both the coax and the interconnecting cable to
tune properly (RF must flow during the tune operation).  The switch must go
on the antenna side of the KAT100 - and if it is located there and the 706
is connected to the antenna for receive, you will attempt to tune the KAT100
into an open circuit if the K2 TUNE button is pressed.

Another possible answer (guess) is that the 706 is putting DC on the coax
(for use with an external preamp maybe?) and somehow interferes with the
tuner operation.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> Any thoughts on this one:  Today I hooked up an antenna switch so
> I could run the K2/100 and the ICOM 706 and switch between them
> and use one or the other when I want to.  Both radios run off the
> same Astron SS-25 power supply.  When I have the 706 turned on
> and RX only, the KAT100 will not tune 40 or 80 meters.  If I turn
> off the 706, the KAT100 works perfectly.  It tunes all other
> bands with the 706 turned on. The 706 is only receiving so I
> wouldn't think it would be drawing enough current to effect the
> K2.   Any ideas on this gremlin?
>
> Jonathan Gottlieb
> WA3WDK
> K2/100 #4856
>
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[Elecraft] KAT100 Won't Tune When IC706 Also Turned On

2005-08-20 Thread Gottlieb, Jonathan
Any thoughts on this one:  Today I hooked up an antenna switch so I could run 
the K2/100 and the ICOM 706 and switch between them and use one or the other 
when I want to.  Both radios run off the same Astron SS-25 power supply.  When 
I have the 706 turned on and RX only, the KAT100 will not tune 40 or 80 meters. 
 If I turn off the 706, the KAT100 works perfectly.  It tunes all other bands 
with the 706 turned on. The 706 is only receiving so I wouldn't think it would 
be drawing enough current to effect the K2.   Any ideas on this gremlin?

Jonathan Gottlieb
WA3WDK
K2/100 #4856 


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[Elecraft] K2 Keyboard Theory

2005-08-20 Thread k7hbg
Good day all!
 I was trying to understand how the keyboard signaled the controller
processor that a new key was punched but to no avail. Also, the shift
reg. (U2) notes which keys are pushed but I can't see how this works. The
inputs of U2 are pulled up with external 100k r's but the input of U2
being a 'hc device loads the input circuitry very very little and so the
input would never go to a low logic level.
 I take it that until the processor is some how notified that a key is
pushed, it remains in sleep mode. Hard for me to understand without some
help but I'm sure, you guys have the answers.
 Thanks for any encouragement, Bob K7HBG



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[Elecraft] strange pwr out on RTTY

2005-08-20 Thread Ken K7ZUM

HI All,

 Have been playing around in the SARTG RTTY test this weekend,
and have noticed a power problem with my K2\KPA100. 
If I am on 20 or 15 mtrs, in the RTTY mode, I have little if any pwr output 
control, even though the display shows 0 to 110 watts, my watt meter will 
only show about 20-30 watts at most, and about the only way to adjust pwr 
out (driving a linear) is to crank up a little more mic input (running a Hal 
DXP-38 
box)  but when I change bands to 80,40,10 mtrs, in the RTTY mode, works just 
fine,
 also, if I go to 20 or 15 mtrs, and change from the RTTY mode, and switch to 
LSB,
I have complete power output control, this is only happening on 20 and 15 mtrs,
anybody have any ideals ???  I am at a loss ??? 


73 de K7ZUM
Ken in Gres"HAM"  Ore


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[Elecraft] Downloadable Rework Eliminators(TM) User's Guide

2005-08-20 Thread Gary Hvizdak
Except for our international customers, those of you who purchased
our "Boards & Parts Kit" should receive your kits today.

We have added a "Free PDF Downloads" section to our unpcbs webpage
to supplement the "Quick Start Instruction Sheet" (i.e. the half-size
four-page booklet of assembly instructions) that is included with your
kit.  You can now download the PDF of our Deluxe Edition User's Guide
from http://home.cfl.rr.com/garyhvizdak/KI4GGX/unpcbs.htm#Downloads

Please note that this link will be changing soon, and probably
within the next 24 to 48 hours, as a result of a conversion of our
existing webpage into a multi-page website.

We are doing this conversion because our webpage has grown to 2.5
MB and about a dozen screens (depending on your resolution setting). 
Our intention is for this conversion to simplify navigation for our new
and returning visitors, and perhaps also slightly reduce bandwidth
consumption in anticipation of increased traffic in the coming days
and weeks.

When the dust settles, you will be able to find our new website's
homepage via the "Related Link" at the bottom of our Yahoo Groups
unpcbs website homepage, at http://groups.yahoo.com/groups/unpcbs 
There will also be a forwarding link from our current unpcbs webpage,
http://home.cfl.rr.com/garyhvizdak/KI4GGX/unpcbs.htm

73,
Gary, KI4GGX
K2 #4067 

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Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for KPA100

2005-08-20 Thread michael taylor
On 8/20/05, John Heaviside <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Alternatively if I buy ready made there are units from about 70 pounds to 150 
> pounds.  Any recommendations?  The RS 50 mentioned in postings does not seem 
> to be available UK.

I have a SEC-1223 23A Switch Mode Power Supply that I bought from
Waters & Stanton, which is my main home station power supply. It
appears to available for 100 pounds.

I have used it in the UK at 230VAC, and have since modifed it as per
the manufactour's instructions for operation at 120VAC in Canada as
well with no RF hashing or noise problems associated with cheaper
switching power supplies not made for amateur radio use.

-ve3tix
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RE: [Elecraft] Re: RS 50 supply

2005-08-20 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Ken, AA7JC wrote:

I know of a Broadcast engineer K6AER in Colorado who happily uses a DPS-75
(13.8VDC 75 amp) for all his 13.8V ham radio needs.  So it is probably
pretty clean.

--

Ken raises a very good point about some DC supplies. They MAY get very noisy
at low current loads! Some supplies that were purpose-designed for various
gear depend upon a certain minimum current load for proper regulation and
filtering. Using such a supply at a small fraction of its rated load may
result in a lot of noise on the DC line and even poor regulation, depending
upon the design.

The Astrons and the like us Hams usually buy were designed to deliver clean
DC from virtually zero Amps up to their full rated output, but that's not
necessarily true of any DC supply.

Ron AC7AC

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RE: [Elecraft] Power supply for KPA100

2005-08-20 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Even a 20-ampere supply is plenty big enough to drive the K2/100 to full
power with current to spare. After all, Elecraft is always conservative in
their recommendations and they spec a 20 amp supply to drive the K2/100.  My
20 amp Astron loafs along with the K2/100 and even supplies power to a few
accessories as well. 

You can even run two supplies. Your current low current supply hooked to the
K2 and a heavier duty supply connected to the KPA100 amp. That way the
heavier supply only needs to supply the KPA100. Something in 12-15 amp range
should be plenty big enough. The diodes in the K2 keep the supplies
electrically separate. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steven Pituch
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 4:36 AM
To: 'John Heaviside'; 'elecraft reflector'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Power supply for KPA100


Hi John.

Any of the Astron 35 series.  RS35, VS35M etc. I have a VS35M since abt
1992, and on my KPA100 and it is great.  I think Ian from GB on one of the
reflectors said he just bought one yesterday, so they are available. 

Steve


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RE: [Elecraft] Re: RS 50 supply

2005-08-20 Thread Ken Lotts
I guess I should report that I have an RS-50A.

I find it to be a pretty nice analog PS overall.  I found mine on Ebay and
landed it for about $100 after shipping etc..  As luck would have it, the
large filter capacitors were totally shot.. One had blown its guts out like
a volcano all over the inside of the cabinet (previous owner probably hooked
it to a variac?).  The large (2 X 50,000ufd) caps are rated for only 25V and
the rectifiers supply it with just over 22V so the RS-50 wont withstand much
of an AC over voltage situation very well.

There is a trimmer pot on a circuit board that allows tweaking the voltage
up and down..  On mine, the board was mounted with the components pointing
down so it was a bit hard to get to the trimmer..   I replaced the bad caps
and mounted the board right side up so that the trimmer was easily
accessible and  tweaked it to put out exactly 13.8V.   I have considered
adding metering and variable voltage etc to it since the schematics show
that it is very do-able for little expense but what the heck... it just sits
under the bench and all I want from it is clean & stable 13.8VDC.

I have not stressed it to see how stiff it is at high current loads but it
is VERY stiff at the light loads.  It has no fan so it is totally silent
(very nice!)

On the flip side, the output wiring is 10 gauge wire and the output
connector is just a couple of bolts.  To be honest the 10 gauge wire is home
runned from two spots and I am pretty sure that it would be OK for 37 amps
but.. I am not sure that doubled up 10 gauge wire and a pair of bolts would
be my choice if I was truly going to draw 37 amps continuously 24X7. (the
RS-50 is "rated" by the manufacturer at 37A).

Duracomm sells some nice switching power supplies.  I found a NIB DPS-55
power supply (13.8VDC 55 amp) on Ebay and landed it for about $90 after
shipping.  The output connectors on it are clearly designed for continuous
duty at it's rated load.  I measured the inside diameter of the holes that
accept the output wires at .314 inch.. very adequate for 1 or 2 gauge wire..
I have not done much testing yet since I don't have anything that draws that
much current.  I can report that the output voltage was an impressively
accurate 13.801 VDC right out of the box as measured on my Fluke 189
multimeter.  It has a fan but it is supposed to only turns on when the
temperature exceeds 115 F and the docs say that it generates "little" heat
until 70% load, so I _guess_ the fan would not run very often below 38 amps.

I know of a Broadcast engineer K6AER in Colorado who happily uses a DPS-75
(13.8VDC 75 amp) for all his 13.8V ham radio needs.  So it is probably
pretty clean.

Ken Lotts
aa7jc


-Original Message-
omitted

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RE: [Elecraft] HiCur after KPA100 mod

2005-08-20 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Gregg,

The capacitors are not the problem - never were, that was a premature
conclusion (the cap change seemed to work at first).  The real problem is
that the manufacturer changed the 1.6 ohm 2 watt resistors to an inductive
design and did not notify Elecraft.

Give Scott a call or email [EMAIL PROTECTED] to request 2 replacement
resistors.  You can likely leave the 5600 pf capacitors in place with no
problem, or you can change them back to the 4700 pf value if you prefer.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I just performed the KPA100 cap mod to as I had a HiCur indication.
> Replacing C80 and C81 did not correct the problem. After the mod
> I am seeing
> the following indications as read on the K2 display.
>
> KPA100 off 20 meters
> 12.8v 2.62a 13.7watts
>
> KPA 100 on 20 meters
> 11.9v 4.04a 98 watts
>
> The power supply is delivering 13.2v key down with the KPA100 as
> measured at
> my DC distribution point.
>
> I have checked all of the solder joints on the KPA100 input network. No
> problems were found. Operation on other bands seems to be OK.
>
>
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[Elecraft] HiCur after KPA100 mod

2005-08-20 Thread Gregg W6IZT
I just performed the KPA100 cap mod to as I had a HiCur indication.
Replacing C80 and C81 did not correct the problem. After the mod I am seeing
the following indications as read on the K2 display.

KPA100 off 20 meters
12.8v 2.62a 13.7watts

KPA 100 on 20 meters
11.9v 4.04a 98 watts

The power supply is delivering 13.2v key down with the KPA100 as measured at
my DC distribution point.

I have checked all of the solder joints on the KPA100 input network. No
problems were found. Operation on other bands seems to be OK.

Any help is greatly appreciated

Gregg
W6IZT



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[Elecraft] QST page 20

2005-08-20 Thread JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD

Thank you to all of you who sent me a scan of page 20.

Best 73 !!!

==

Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ

==


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RE: [Elecraft] Power supply for KPA100

2005-08-20 Thread Steven Pituch
Hi John.

Any of the Astron 35 series.  RS35, VS35M etc. I have a VS35M since abt
1992, and on my KPA100 and it is great.  I think Ian from GB on one of the
reflectors said he just bought one yesterday, so they are available. 

Steve

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Heaviside
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 4:40 AM
To: elecraft reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Power supply for KPA100

I am about to embark on final assembly of KPA100 and need a 25A PSU.  I
would like to build my own but cannot find a published design.  I could
design my own but the cost of a transformer, electrolytics and a heat sink
approach the price of commercially available PSUs.  If I get it wrong it is
money wasted.  has anyone knowledge of a design and components available in
UK?

Alternatively if I buy ready made there are units from about 70 pounds to
150 pounds.  Any recommendations?  The RS 50 mentioned in postings does not
seem to be available UK.

John, G3NYX

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[Elecraft] Power supply for KPA100

2005-08-20 Thread John Heaviside
I am about to embark on final assembly of KPA100 and need a 25A PSU.  I would 
like to build my own but cannot find a published design.  I could design my own 
but the cost of a transformer, electrolytics and a heat sink approach the price 
of commercially available PSUs.  If I get it wrong it is money wasted.  has 
anyone knowledge of a design and components available in UK?

Alternatively if I buy ready made there are units from about 70 pounds to 150 
pounds.  Any recommendations?  The RS 50 mentioned in postings does not seem to 
be available UK.

John, G3NYXNo virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 267.10.12 - Release Date: 17/08/2005
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