RE: [Elecraft] Spot Tone

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

  The only real way to ensure spotting is to
receive while transmitting.
  Even the K2 can't do that.

Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 4962
---

Sure it can, Ian! The oscillators in the K2 are those that produce the tones
you zero beat to in receiver are the same oscillators that make RF in
transmit. The only difference is that the power level is increased
tremendously in  xmit. The frequencies are unchanged. 

Ron AC7AC

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RE: [Elecraft] Spot Tone

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Craig, NZ0R wrote:

I have a pretty good sense of pitch and some musical talent, but for some
reason I find it easier to put the peak over the 600 mark than to "hear" 600
Hz reliably.

=
The "spot" function does not require any sense of musical pitch or tone. It
does not require one to detect a particular frequency. Perhaps that's the
confusion. Finding "zero beat" is the method FOR those with no musical
talent or sense of frequency.

When the levels are set correctly - the level of the sidetone and the
received signal are close to the same - one hears a very clear 'beat'.
That's what "zero beat" means. As you bring the frequencies together you
hear a tone that keeps dropping in frequency toward zero. As you get close,
you  hear a 'whop, whop, whop..." that finally drops to a very slow rate or
stops altogether. That's zero beat. 

But, to hear the beat, it's important that the levels be fairly well
matched. If one is stronger than the other, it's hard to hear.

I recommend people practice on WWV or some other steady carrier because it
can be tricky to hear on a keyed CW signal until one knows what one is
listening for. 

Bottom line, do NOT pay attention to the frequency of the side tone or the
frequency of the received signal. Instead, listen for the THIRD tone that
appears when they are well matched in level, and then tune until that third
tone goes to zero Hz...

Ron AC7AC

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Spot Tone

[Ian Stirling]

On Wednesday 05 October 2005 03:34, Craig Rairdin wrote:
> > Maybe I need one of those LED Tuners

  The only real way to ensure spotting is to
receive while transmitting.
  Even the K2 can't do that.

Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 4962
--

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RE: [Elecraft] Spot Tone

[Craig Rairdin]

> Maybe I need one of those LED Tuners
> I've been reading about. What am I doing wrong??

Others have made good comments about how to use SPOT. Lately I've been
running my audio into my laptop and running CWGet. It has a nice little
spectrum display where the CW signals show up as sharp peaks on the waveform
display. I tune until the signal I want is right at 600 Hz on the display
then I don't have to try to match the tone.

You can set CWGet up so it will sit looking at one frequency (in my case,
600 Hz) so when I get the peak over the hash mark for 600 Hz is also when it
starts copying the code.

I have a pretty good sense of pitch and some musical talent, but for some
reason I find it easier to put the peak over the 600 mark than to "hear" 600
Hz reliably.

I sure think some kind of graphical display for the K2 would be nice. I'm
not familiar with what all the "fancy" rigs do with their color displays. I
kinda skipped a few generations of equipment when I dropped out of ham radio
in the early 80's then woke up like Rip Van Winkle in 2005 to build a K1 and
K2. But it seems like some kind of graphical display would come in handy for
lots of things.

Maybe the K3...

Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941

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[Elecraft] Spot Tone

[sheajohnw]

Try holding down PRE/ATT in CW mode to start the spot tone.  Tapping PRE/ATT 
will stop the tone.  You tune the CW signal back and forth until the CW tone 
pitch matches the spot tone. You should then be tuned to the CW signal 
frequency when you transmit.
 
You were selecting the PF1 function which is giving you the setting for 
changing tone volume.  Pressing and holding RIT gives you SSE L 143, turning 
the dial will change tone volume only.  143 is very loud!  Reduce your volume 
and try tuning a signal again.
 
Holding XIT (PF2) usually will start the tone and allow you to change tone 
pitch.  Many CW operators use a 600 to 800 hz pitch. A 600 pitch is ST P 0.60.
 
If you have Spectrogram or a digital program with a waterfall display such as 
MixW, you can see the tones on the computer screen.  In CW mode, press and hold 
PRE/ATT, Tune until the spot tone and CW signal tone overlap, tap PRE/ATT to 
stop the spot tone.
 
73 de KB1IKD
 
If you are not hearing a tone, something is wrong.  
 
<>
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem trying to use Spot on K2

[Brian Mury]

On Tue, 2005-10-04 at 20:40 -0600, NR5A wrote:
> When I hit the Spot button, same as Rit only held longer I get SE L  143.

You are using the wrong button. You activate the spot feature by holding
down the PRE/ATT button, not the RIT button. 

Note that the yellow labels indicating the buttons secondary functions
are below the buttons, while the white labels indicating the primary
functions are above the buttons.

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[Elecraft] Problem trying to use Spot on K2

[NR5A]

I guess I don't understand at all how to use the spot feature. For all I
know my K2 may not even have it. I just listened to N0SS 2 different wav
files and still can't figure out what I'm doing.  When I hit the Spot
button, same as Rit only held longer I get SE L  143. The number changes as
I turn the main tuning dial but the tone completly wipes out the signal I'm
listening to, no matter how loud it is. Maybe I need one of those LED Tuners
I've been reading about. What am I doing wrong??

Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota


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Re: [Elecraft] Magnet mobile mount

[Larry Makoski W2LJ]

Paul,

I don't know if it's the least expensive; but I got mine through 
Lakeview - the Hamstick folks.  It's lasted well these past three years.


73 de Larry W2LJ

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[Elecraft] Magnet mobile mount

[Paul Gates, KD3JF]

Anyone got any ideas which way to go for the least
expensive 3 magnet mobile mount? Of course maybe they
all are pretty much the same price but thought I would
ask




Paul Gates, KD3JF
K1  #0231
KX1 #1186
XG1



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 VCO trouble and fix

[Johnny]

Hi Harlan,

Quick, prompt and accurate support are the most important to kit building 
and Elecraft has been doing it.  Some of the hams in VR2 commented that the 
kits were over priced.  However, I explained to them that what you got was 
not only packs of electronic components but also the design concept and 
excellent support services.  I owned quite a range of rigs from IC756pro3 to 
FTDX9000 but K2 is the only one which I can service it myself.


As at today, I have built 10 K2s.  Each time I encountered different 
problems (big or small, oversight or careless).  Gary always can cure my 
problems in the first round.


Enjoy your kit building.

73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 9:33 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 VCO trouble and fix




OK, here were my symtoms:

Just completed Assembly Part II.
Performing the VCO alignment... all is well (all voltages well in
range)until I get to the 10m band. The Low freq. reading is 3.046...
ok so far. But as I tune towards 28,800 I lose lock at about 28,400 or
so voltage ramps up to 8.4.

I checked C71 - C74, D21-D26, T5. all are correct. Soldering looks
good.
I move the windings of T5 in and out... this just changes the freq I
lose lock at, but not by much. Still can't get near 28,800.

I rewind T5... just for the fun of it (?)
NO help there either.

I e-mail Gary at Elecraft (3:01pm)
Get a reply from Gary (4:33pm)

He gave me a PAGE worth of "might be"... one being to check RCF15. He
said if it was open it can cause all sorts of odd problems.

Well, it WAS open... I must have bent the leads to much or heated it
too much, or whatever. Anyway, I bridged across it momentarily to see
what effect it would have.
Guess what?   ALL VCO voltages were well within limits...including 10m
high freq. Without even touching L30. So, I ordered a new choke and
thanked Gary for a quick and accurate response.

My comment to him was:

"What a great radio, what a great staff"
It don't get better than this...
Now, back to building the best radio on the market by the way, I
was able to copy a little CW on 40m while setting up to adjust the IF
amp...

Thanks Elecraft for a great product and a GREAT staff.

Harlan
KI4IDA

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RE: [Elecraft] Magnetic key attachment a problem?

[EricJ]

My K1 seems to be overly sensitive to magnetic fields from a small external
speaker if I have it on the left side. Less so on the right side. I have to
keep it a foot or so away from the left side. The only way to know for sure
is to experiment with placement.

Eric
KE6US
www.ke6us.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 2:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Magnetic key attachment a problem?

This is not necessarily an Elecraft issue, but there is a wealth of ham
radio expertise on this reflector, so I thought I would collect some
opinions:

I have a small straight key mounted on steel plate that I want to be able to
attach to my K1 while operating. I was thinking of using strong magnets, and
a piece of sheet steel attached to the case of the K1 (I think the case is
aluminum, no?). Anyway, my question is this: will strong magnetic fields
have any effect on the K1, aside from possibly the speaker? I think  I read
something about affecting VFO circuitry, but I cannot find that reference.

Any an all opinions would be most welcome.

73,
Mike

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Re: [Elecraft] Two Band Moxon/wire beam

[VR2BrettGraham]

Okay, found it - WA1X's technique for tuning a Moxon rectangle:

http://lists.contesting.com/archives//html/Towertalk/2005-03/msg00852.html

My apologies for not finding it sooner.

73, VR2BrettGraham

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Re: [Elecraft] K7C Is looking for new ones

[NR5A]

I hear him, can't hear anyone he is working tho. Darn. I'll keep trying.
Jerry - NR5A

- Original Message - 
From: "Cherie and Lynn Hammond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 7:03 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K7C Is looking for new ones


> K7C is looking only for those who have not yet made any QSO's with 
> them... he is on 18072 listening up... never heard this done before.. a 
> great move on ther part. Go for it guysthey say they wiil do this 
> until QRT at 2000z.
> 
> Lynn KL7IKV/QRP
> K2#3263
> 
> 
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> 
> 

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[Elecraft] K2 VCO trouble and fix

[HSHERRIFF]

OK, here were my symtoms:

Just completed Assembly Part II.
Performing the VCO alignment... all is well (all voltages well in 
range)until I get to the 10m band. The Low freq. reading is 3.046... 
ok so far. But as I tune towards 28,800 I lose lock at about 28,400 or 
so voltage ramps up to 8.4.

I checked C71 - C74, D21-D26, T5. all are correct. Soldering looks 
good. 
I move the windings of T5 in and out... this just changes the freq I 
lose lock at, but not by much. Still can't get near 28,800.

I rewind T5... just for the fun of it (?)
NO help there either.

I e-mail Gary at Elecraft (3:01pm)
Get a reply from Gary (4:33pm)

He gave me a PAGE worth of "might be"... one being to check RCF15. He 
said if it was open it can cause all sorts of odd problems.

Well, it WAS open... I must have bent the leads to much or heated it 
too much, or whatever. Anyway, I bridged across it momentarily to see 
what effect it would have. 
Guess what?   ALL VCO voltages were well within limits...including 10m 
high freq. Without even touching L30. So, I ordered a new choke and 
thanked Gary for a quick and accurate response.

My comment to him was:

"What a great radio, what a great staff"
It don't get better than this...
Now, back to building the best radio on the market by the way, I 
was able to copy a little CW on 40m while setting up to adjust the IF 
amp... 

Thanks Elecraft for a great product and a GREAT staff.

Harlan
KI4IDA
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RE: [Elecraft] RE:split indicator for K2

[Neal Campbell]

I do not know how many of the reflector's subscribers have visited Tom's
web-site. I have visited it before but after this exchange I spent an hour
on it today reading all of the instructional files. This is an incredible
resource. Strongly recommend all to visit (or even re-visit if its been a
while)!

Thanks Tom!

73 de Neal k3nc 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Hammond
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 9:26 PM
To: Rick Dettinger; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RE:split indicator for K2

Hi Rick:

IF you attempt this (though I suspect you're kidding), be aware that the LED
specified for the SPLIT/RIT indicator is a Hi-Eff (e.g. very low
current) device. If you (or anyone else) use a regular LED, you will have to
add a driver transistor in order to allow the LED to draw more current. 
The Hi-Eff LED only draws 2 mA of current in the present circuit design.

Have fun, kidding or not.

Tom N0SS

At 01:20 PM 10/4/2005, Rick Dettinger wrote:
>Maybe I've finally found a use for the round hole with 8 pins located 
>just to the left of the headphone jack. This would be a splendid home 
>for a nice bright red LED split indicator.  Maybe I could use 2 of the 
>pins to power the light. This is probably what the designer had in mind.  I
wonder
>what the other 6 pins are for?73 - Rick - K7MW
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[Elecraft] K7C Is looking for new ones

[Cherie and Lynn Hammond]

K7C is looking only for those who have not yet made any QSO's with 
them... he is on 18072 listening up... never heard this done before.. a 
great move on ther part. Go for it guysthey say they wiil do this 
until QRT at 2000z.


Lynn KL7IKV/QRP
K2#3263


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[Elecraft] RE: OT: FS/FT Rubidium Frequency Standard

[Jim Sheldon]

Standard has been spoken for - 

W0EB

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[Elecraft] FS: KDSP2

[Steve Hostetler]

I have a 100% functional KDSP2 that I built about 6 weeks ago that I 
would like to sell to help finance building another K2 over the winter.  
I operate only cw and have gotten so used to using just the xtal filters 
that I have the DSP in bypass mode 99% of the time.  I'm asking $195 
which includes shipping and all of the supplied installation parts. 


Please contact me off list.

73, steve, kx7r

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[Elecraft] OT: FS/FT Rubidium Frequency Standard

[Jim Sheldon]

I have an extra Efratom model FRK Rubidium Frequency Standard, serial#
250/2140.  Provides a very stable, accurate 10 MHz output.  The unit
requires a 24-28 volt regulated power supply at approximately 2.0 amps.  I
will provide a suitable supply with this one.  These units are usually pulls
from Omega Navigation receivers.  Since the Omega system was
de-commissioned, some of these have found their way into ham circles.  They
sell around $300-400 bare with no power supplies and no RF cable.  It has a
funny little coax connector on the unit, and I will also provide several
matching cables to make life easier for the lucky person that gets this one.

I would like $325 cash, check, money order or PayPal for this one and I'll
pay the shipping anywhere in the US only.  I will not ship this overseas or
to Canada as it's US Military Surplus and I don't know the legalities of
shipping it out of the States.

I will also trade even for an MFJ-989D or an MFJ-986 Tuner.  Either tuner
would be okay.  I'll pay shipping on the standard, you pay shipping on the
tuner.

Please, reply off list if you are interested - an older Dentron MT-3000
tuner would also be considered for trade.

Jim Sheldon, W0EB
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
316-744-3022

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RE: [Elecraft] RE:split indicator for K2

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Folks,

I just added a hi-current LED to my K2 as a SPLIT/RIT/XIT indicator.  Adding
the emitter follower transistor was a cinch.  I used a 2N2907 PNP
transistor, connected the base where the cathode of the lo-cur LED would
have been, connected the collector where the anode of the lo-cur LED was to
be connected and connected the hi-current LED between the emitter and
ground.  It worked FB and was plenty bright.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Hi Rick:
>
> IF you attempt this (though I suspect you're kidding), be aware that the
> LED specified for the SPLIT/RIT indicator is a Hi-Eff (e.g. very low
> current) device. If you (or anyone else) use a regular LED, you will have
> to add a driver transistor in order to allow the LED to draw more
> current.
> The Hi-Eff LED only draws 2 mA of current in the present circuit design.
>
> Have fun, kidding or not.
>
> Tom N0SS
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
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Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.9/118 - Release Date: 10/3/2005

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[Elecraft] WA3WSJ PA QSO Party

[Edward R. Breneiser]

Hello all,

I just tuned all my Hustler Elements on 80m,75m,40m,20m,15m & 10m today.
Look for me on the "mobile" frequencies ssb and cw during the PA QSO
Party. Here's a link to that site.

http://www.nittany-arc.net/paqso.html

72/73,
Ed, WA3WSJ


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Re: [Elecraft] Here we go ... stupid newbie questions ...

[John R. Lonigro]

Keith:

Just so you aren't misled, the 100 Watt PA CAN indeed go into a separate 
enclosure and serve as a linear, but ONLY for a K2.  It CANNOT be used 
as a general purpose linear for any other rig.


I wasn't sure this point has been made yet.

73's,

John AA0VE

Keith Darwin, wrote: 

 


Can the 100 watt PA go into a separate enclosure and serve as a linear?..
   


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[Elecraft] RE: Bandscope for the K2 Update

[James T. "Jim" Rogers, W4ATK]

Wow! I just sent all the current users an update that includes more
features. I really appreciate all the interest in this little freebie for my
K2 friends. For the moment, I will suspend sending out more "packages" until
I  give my "beta testers", all thirty of them, time to report back any
issues or suggestions they might have.
The first items I sent out were a really quick and dirty, see if that 
is of
interest and I was not prepared for the response. Not having a website means
I have to create all those emails. What a lot of fun!
Again, this is a freebie, no commercial interest (reserved for later. 
:-)
:-))  Just a fun response to a post on the reflector a few weeks ago. If you
want a copy, e-mail me off the reflector and I will make note of your
request and once the "testers" have had the opportunity to check in, I will
fill your request.
For the record, I was using the program yesterday, saw a hole in the 
pileup
for K7C on 15M. Jumped into the hole and called him three times and made the
log and the map! I wish it was QRP but I had the KPA100 on line for that
one.

73s Jim, W4ATK
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Re: [Elecraft] RE:split indicator for K2

[Tom Hammond]

Hi Rick:

IF you attempt this (though I suspect you're kidding), be aware that the 
LED specified for the SPLIT/RIT indicator is a Hi-Eff (e.g. very low 
current) device. If you (or anyone else) use a regular LED, you will have 
to add a driver transistor in order to allow the LED to draw more current. 
The Hi-Eff LED only draws 2 mA of current in the present circuit design.


Have fun, kidding or not.

Tom N0SS

At 01:20 PM 10/4/2005, Rick Dettinger wrote:
Maybe I've finally found a use for the round hole with 8 pins located just 
to the left of the headphone jack. This would be a splendid home for a 
nice bright red LED split indicator.  Maybe I could use 2 of the pins to 
power the light. This is probably what the designer had in mind.  I wonder 
what the other 6 pins are for?73 - Rick - K7MW

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[Elecraft] Magnetic key attachment a problem?

[n2htt]

This is not necessarily an Elecraft issue, but there is a wealth of ham radio 
expertise on this reflector, so I thought I would collect some opinions:

I have a small straight key mounted on steel plate that I want to be able to 
attach to my K1 while operating. I was thinking of using strong magnets, and a 
piece of sheet steel attached to the case of the K1 (I think the case is 
aluminum, no?). Anyway, my question is this: will strong magnetic fields have 
any effect on the K1, aside from possibly the speaker? I think  I read 
something about affecting VFO circuitry, but I cannot find that reference.

Any an all opinions would be most welcome.

73,
Mike

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Re: [Elecraft] Here we go ... stupid newbie questions ...

[gehringc]

Keith Darwin, wrote: 

> I've been QRT for several years and am getting back into the hobby.  I'm 
> interested in a K2 with only a few options (SSB, NB, 100, DSP)... Can the 100 
> watt PA go into a separate enclosure and serve as a linear?...
> How does K2 compare to the TenTec Argonaut V?


Keith,
I am a really new Ham.  I got my Tech Plus in 1996, then without ever touching 
a radio upgraded 
to General in Nov 2003.  My first radio was the Ten Tec 516 Argonaut V with the 
TCXO.  My very 
first time on the air with anything other than a CB (and we don't need to talk 
about that) was 
Feb 2004.  Things I love about the Argonaut V.  I like having 100 programmable 
memories, the 
QSK is fantastic, General Coverage Receiver, and I didn't need any extra 
filters or 
modifications to get on the air.  Things I don't like about the Argonaut V, it 
takes a lot of 
power and not well suited for field operations. 

I got into Ham Radio for CW operations.  I have been 100% CW from day one.  I 
had such a great 
time with my Argonaut at home I decided to buy a KX1 for field operations.  I 
was so impressed 
with the KX1 and had such great fun building and operating with it I bought a 
K2.   

I wish my K2 had more memories but then I could always hook it up to a 
computer.  I started out 
with a basic K2 and then added the KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 Antenna Tuner, 
K160RX, KIO2, KBT2 
KDSP2 and KAF2 real time clock.  This kit building thing is very addictive, and 
while I don't 
use it I installed the KSB2 for SSB.  I even got really froggy and built the 
KPA100 and mounted 
it in a remote KAT100 Auto tuner.  Effectively I have a great K2 QRP rig that 
is remoted for 
QRO operations and I can quickly disconnect and take it to the field.  I have 
run my K2 side by 
side with my Argonaut V switching back and forth to the same antenna.  The 
differences to my 
NOVICE ear are very subtle.  

With all of that said the KDSP2 on my K2 is hands down the best addition to my 
K2 and lets me 
copy stuff that I would never be able to filter out on with my Argonaut V.  I 
will not be 
getting rid of my Argonaut V any time soon, it is a great rig.  My K2 is and 
will remain my 
main rig.  Currently my Argonaut V is on loan to my Dad who has also been QRT 
for several 
years.  As soon as he finishes building his K1, I will get my Ten Tec back.  

As for the K2 mods, build the basic K2 and add the mods later after the basic 
rig is working.  
Building it and operating it has been absolutely fantastic.  The Elecraft 
Reflector has been my 
proxy Elmer, and the customer support from Elecraft during the build is the 
best.  
If your interested I have a small web page that shows my shack and some 
projects, http://tinyurl.com/dy8g6 
If I could only have one radio it would without a doubt be my K2.

I hope that helps 
73 KI4DGH
Chuck Gehring
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Re: [Elecraft] Top Posting

[Thom R LaCosta]

On Tue, 4 Oct 2005, Don Brown wrote:


Hi

If you have cats it must roll from the back or it will be all on the floor


Having it run to another core in the horizontal plane allows the addition of a 
small electric motor to act as a generator, which then could mean a whole new 
contest CDTPG.


The CDTPG awards will be based on the longest amount of QSO time divided by 
output power of the rig, then divided by the number of charge cylinders used 
during the contest.


PETA exemption certificates are available for download.

73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,
Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel
Elecraft Owners Database
www.tlchost.net/hosting/  ***  Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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Re: [Elecraft] Here we go ... stupid newbie questions ...

[Bob Nielsen]

On Oct 4, 2005, at 11:48 AM, Darwin, Keith wrote:


Hey guys,

I've been QRT for several years and am getting back into the  
hobby.  I'm

interested in a K2 with only a few options (SSB, NB, 100, DSP).  Do I
need to get them all at once or can I build a basic radio and add the
options at a later time (I assume I can).


Yes, although if you have the options, installing the connectors at  
the time of the initial build may ease things.  Particularly with the  
160RX board, which requires removing the final transistors from the  
lower panel heat sink.


Can the 100 watt PA go into a separate enclosure and serve as a  
linear?

I think I've heard of folks combining the 100 watt PA and the 100 watt
ATU into a single box to make a nifty pair of base station boots.


See .

How often do used K2 rigs come up for sale?  Do they usually fetch  
more

than kit price or less?


Fairly often on this list.  The price seems to vary a lot.  Of  
course, going this route means you will miss the joy of building a K2  
(which has resulted in many hams selling one so they can build another).


73, Bob N7XY

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Re: [Elecraft] Here we go ... stupid newbie questions ...

[W2AGN]

Darwin, Keith wrote:

Hey guys,
 
I've been QRT for several years and am getting back into the hobby.  I'm

interested in a K2 with only a few options (SSB, NB, 100, DSP).  Do I
need to get them all at once or can I build a basic radio and add the
options at a later time (I assume I can).


Yes

 
Can the 100 watt PA go into a separate enclosure and serve as a linear?

I think I've heard of folks combining the 100 watt PA and the 100 watt
ATU into a single box to make a nifty pair of base station boots.

Yes

 
How often do used K2 rigs come up for sale?  Do they usually fetch more

than kit price or less?


Fairly frequently. There is one on that unameable auction place right 
now (K2/100)


 
How does K2 compare to the TenTec Argonaut V?


Performance wise, the K2 runs rings around the Argo V (I have both). See 
http://w2agn.net/argoV.html


 
73!
 


--
   _ _ _ _ _
  / \   / \   / \   / \   / \   John L. Sielke
 ( W ) ( 2 ) ( A ) ( G ) ( N )  http://w2agn.net
  \_/   \_/   \_/   \_/   \_/
"CRUSTY OLD CURMUDGEON - AND PROUD OF IT!"


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[Elecraft] Here we go ... stupid newbie questions ...

[Darwin, Keith]

Hey guys,
 
I've been QRT for several years and am getting back into the hobby.  I'm
interested in a K2 with only a few options (SSB, NB, 100, DSP).  Do I
need to get them all at once or can I build a basic radio and add the
options at a later time (I assume I can).
 
Can the 100 watt PA go into a separate enclosure and serve as a linear?
I think I've heard of folks combining the 100 watt PA and the 100 watt
ATU into a single box to make a nifty pair of base station boots.
 
How often do used K2 rigs come up for sale?  Do they usually fetch more
than kit price or less?
 
How does K2 compare to the TenTec Argonaut V?
 
73!
 
- Keith -
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Re: [Elecraft] RE:split indicator for K2

[Mark Saunders]

They must be for some kind of analog connection, what I'm not sure.  Looking at 
the schematic it looks like some type of input connector.  Maybe this is where 
you connect the wireless controller so you can hook it to a computer network 
for remote operation.  Ya think?  Oh, wait, 8-pins, thats gotta be the built-in 
rotator controller.

Mark Saunders, KJ7BS
Glendale, AZ
<><><><><><><><><><>
FISTS # 2972
Elecraft K2 S/N 539
<><><><><><><><><><>
If it aint fun,
you aint doing it right.
AZ ScQRPions

From: "Rick Dettinger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: 2005/10/04 Tue PM 02:20:32 EDT
To: 
Subject: [Elecraft] RE:split indicator for K2

Maybe I've finally found a use for the round hole with 8 pins located just to 
the left of the headphone jack. This would be a splendid home for a nice bright 
red LED split indicator.  Maybe I could use 2 of the pins to power the light. 
This is probably what the designer had in mind.  I wonder what the other 6 pins 
are for?73 - Rick - K7MW
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[Elecraft] RE:split indicator for K2

[Rick Dettinger]

Maybe I've finally found a use for the round hole with 8 pins located just to 
the left of the headphone jack. This would be a splendid home for a nice bright 
red LED split indicator.  Maybe I could use 2 of the pins to power the light. 
This is probably what the designer had in mind.  I wonder what the other 6 pins 
are for?73 - Rick - K7MW
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RE: [Elecraft] Split indicator

[Sverre Holm]

-Original Message-
For a 'no-holes' implementation, a small LED can be mounted in a keycap.

Don W3FPR


I have pictures of mine on my web site at
http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2_LEDS.html
Since the Split LED output from the K2 only can drive a low current LED it
takes a single transistor driver to drive the tiny LED in the key cap. 

I intend to draw a schematic of how I connected the Split LED along with the
KAF2 LED, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/
 

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[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: PA QSO Party Mobile

[Edward R. Breneiser]

Hello all,

Look for me operating in the PA QSO Party this weekend. Here's my trip
route:

Stop #1: Rt.183 on AT--- BER/SCH Line--Noon to 1pm Saturday
Stop #2: Mtn Top near Frackville, PA SCH--2pm to 3pm
Stop #3: Rt.54 near Ashland, PA --- COL/NUM Line-- 3:15pm to 4:15pm
Stop #4: Rt.54 Big Mtn- NUM --- 4:30pm to 5pm
Stop #5: Rt.54 near Elysburg,PA NUM/MTR Line --- 5:10pm to 6pm
Stop #6: Fantasy Campground near Sunbury, PA --- NUM --- 6:30pm to ?
Stop #7: Rt.235 -- UNI/SNY Line --- 10am to 3pm Sunday

That's seven counties and a bunch of driving! I plan to camp at Fantasy
Island Campground Saturday evening. This is an island on the Susquehanna
River in Northumberland County. I will operate from the island Saturday
evening until 0200utc or so on 75m/80m. I hope to hear from the road!

72/73,
Ed, WA3WSJ


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[Elecraft] Top Posting OK

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

I'll add this to the Elecraft list guidelines: Top posting is -OK- on this list.

Like many of you, I also find that reading list postings is -much- faster if the 
reply is posted above the copied text.  It is much faster to scan messages this 
way, avoiding scrolling down each one for the new text. (Of course if the amount 
of copied text is reduced to 1-2 sentences it really doesn't matter where the 
reply is, since it will be visible on the first screen :-)


Top posting also makes it much easier to read the list in digest mode, where all 
of the daily messages are sent as a single email.


One variance that is also good practice:  When answering a lot of questions in a 
prior email, intersperse your replies after each question.


Let's not beat this one to death... I rears it's head at least once yearly with 
many, many, opinions on both sides of the issue posted ;-)


73, Eric   WA6HHQ
Elecraft List Moderator


W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote:


There are many messages here on the reflector each day, and in total I
likely review over 100 messages a day from various sources.  While I try to
look at each message and prepare an intelligent response, I am unable to
take the time to scroll down, find the proper tic-marks indicating the
previous message, and trying to sort out in-line comments and other such
points of 'proper netiquite' is particularly irritating to me.


-Original Message-



message you reply to is important, it is also very important NOT
to reply _atop_ the original message but _below_ it.
It's much easier to read the message when proper quiting was used,
even if one didn't follow the thread closely.

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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: [DX-NEWS] message from K7C

[Gilbert J Cross]

Does the following have some real meaning or is it simply an
illustration?
Gil K8EAG

> 
> K7C Bulletin - Oct 1st> 
> 3) Follow instructions.  If the K7C op says 200 to 205, you probably
> won't get in the log at 207 or 198.  
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RE: [Elecraft] possible K2 revision?

[Tom Hammond]

PC boards for the SPLIT/RIT LED mod are still available from N0SS for $3 
(USD) ppd. Docs for the mod are available at www.n0ss.net, just go to the 
web page, drop down a bit and click on the Quik Link entitled "K2-Specific 
Files". This will take you to the K2 section of the page. The docs are the 
4th and 5th articles in this section.


73,

Tom   N0SS

At 08:30 PM 10/3/2005, you wrote:

As an op who runs split 100% of the time, I'll have to agree with you! For
some reason or another, usually doing some tests, I'll disable split and
then forget to re-enable it for operation.

Of course, there is an "annunciator" signifying split, but to me it's an
annunciator in 1 pt type at the bottom of the page. When in split, the carat
over the VFO selected blinks.

And, of course, the frequency display changes to the TX frequency when you
hit the PTT or Key. But, still, I've blown it often enough to be a bit
embarrassed!

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] Top Posting

[Don Brown]

Hi

If you have cats it must roll from the back or it will be all on the floor

Don Brown
KD5NDB




- Original Message - 
From: "Paul T. Rubin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "'Elecraft Reflector'" 
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 11:57 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Top Posting


> 
> >OK guys and gals, this is getting very close to the neverending 
> discussion of which way the toilet paper should roll.  
> 
> 
> It rolls clockwise in the northern hemisphere.
> 
> (Sorry folks, I just couldn't resist.)
> 
> Paul N8NOV
> Houston (Northern Hemisphere)
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] K7C -- Split

[CRMABBOTT]

Working split sounds like a great subject for an 'elmer' session at a club 
meeting and a nice presentation to.

I have mentioned split to some hams in the local club here and they tell me the 
HT does that already... HI HI 

They may not understand how or why it is done on HF.  No reflection intended 
they just need some guideance..

"I disagree. If a person is calling on the dx stations frequency no one  
should say UP. I listened to one guy yesterday from Europe and he nominated 
 "


73  Chuck AA8VS

--
 __  
 ___/ Chuck   \_
|   |
| www.aa8vs.org/aa8vs  |

The pessimist complains about the 
wind; the optimist expects it to 
change; the realist adjusts the 
sails."
-- William Arthur Ward


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RE: [Elecraft] K7C

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Julius wrote: 
Something to keep in mind, the MAJORITY of major
DXpeditions work split 1 to 5 kHz up. If K7C has made
any mistakes, it's probably working simplex a few
times when things were quiet.

---

That's common for almost ALL DX, in my experience. 

More than once I've called CQ on a quiet band and had a DX, sometimes even a
popular DX-pedition, call ME on MY frequency. Then, after our exchange, I
get some UP Cops berating me for working them on their frequency. Of course
those cops are QRMing everyone else trying to call the DX.

The smart DX stations who have done that have immediately moved several KHz
away when we signed when they heard the gang arrive on frequency. 

As Julius says, patience pays. 

Ron AC7AC
__

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RE: [Elecraft] Split indicator

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Folks,

A Split/RIT/XIT indicator can (and has) been added to the K2 as a mod.  If
you want a non-Elecraft implementation, you can do it.  Look at Tom
Hammond's website www.n0ss.net near the bottom, and/or look at the LA3ZA
Unofficial list of mods for the K2 at
http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2/mod.html.  For a 'no-holes'
implementation, a small LED can be mounted in a keycap.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> "I need too add an indicator to my K2 when running
> split. A couple of times I thought I was split when I
> wasn't. Had egg on my face when I called on top of the
> DX station. That's embarrassing."
>
> I concur with that Tony! If you come up with a good
> solution, let me know. Sometimes I just need a big RED
> LED to let me know I'm doing what I think I'm doing!
>
>
--
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[Elecraft] Special BNC Connector

[Paul Gates, KD3JF]

To all:

Thank you to all who responded to me about coming up
with a center BNC for a dipole using a BNC Connector.



Paul Gates, KD3JF
K1  #0231
KX1 #1186
XG1



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[Elecraft] Can we please keep this more confined to radio?

[J F]

I'll second that...

73,
Julius
n2wn
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[Elecraft] bitty rubber boardy bumpers

[Steve Jackson]

>>After finishing up the front panel board, the 
>>little rubber spacers kept falling off the PC 
>>board.  They stick, just not very well.  

If it's any consolation, the rubber stick-on pads on
#0771 fell off some years ago, and I don't notice the
difference.  I'm not all that certain what they were
for, anyway.

At work, I have some fancy 3M double-sided acrylic
adhesive film that's GUARANTEED to hold the bumpers in
place ... but it's hard to work with in small pieces. 
And I lost the rubber pads, anyway.  If I had new
ones, I'd try it.  Not sure if this item is an
orderable part from Aptos.

Steve KZ1X/4







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[Elecraft] (no subject)

[J F]

"I need too add an indicator to my K2 when running
split. A couple of times I thought I was split when I
wasn't. Had egg on my face when I called on top of the
DX station. That's embarrassing."

I concur with that Tony! If you come up with a good
solution, let me know. Sometimes I just need a big RED
LED to let me know I'm doing what I think I'm doing!

Good luck on the 160 attempt, I'll be listening for
'em as well (nothing this AM).
73,
Julius
n2wn
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Re: [Elecraft] Side-posting With Tongue-in-Cheek

[Mark Bayern]

Paul -- go melt some solder! Build something. You've spent too much
time on the internet. :)

On 10/3/05, Paul Saville <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> My humble apologies. One certainly mustn't muck-up
> one's side-postings. Here's another try...
>
> Perhaps we could  > A very good point!
> compromise  and   > Not only removing
> _side_ post, but  > the unneccessary
> only on the   > parts of a message
> _left_side_. It's > you reply to is
> actually quite fun,   > important, it is
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RE: [Elecraft] Can the external Auto Tuner be used with other rigs?

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Kieth,

The T1 tuner is the only one that might do that current job for you.
Look at http://www.elecraft.com/T1/T1_FAQ1.htm for the specifics.

The KAT2 and KAT100 must have a K2 attached to operate, and they cannot be
remotely located.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I'm interested in some day getting a K2.  Currently I'm setting up an
> antenna that could really benefit from an auto tuner, preferably located
> at the antenna feed point.  I'm considering the Elecraft auto tuner.
>
> Can it be run with rigs other than the K2?
>
> Is it durable enough to work in outside temperatures (Winter in VT)?
>
> Can it be run remotely?
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.9/118 - Release Date: 10/3/2005

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Re: [Elecraft] K7C

[n3drk]

I disagree. If a person is calling on the dx stations frequency no one 
should say UP. I listened to one guy yesterday from Europe and he nominated 
himself to be the DX COP for 2 hours. This guys job was to tell others UP. 
For Two Entire Hours! He was not even calling the K7C, just telling others 
UP and sometimes how much UP. One person asked if the K7C was listening UP 
or DOWN and this moron started a conversation with him. These hams today do 
not know how to listen and turn the vfo knob. Ham radio is not that 
difficult.  We do not need people like this. It is bad enough when a person 
who makes the ole vfo mistake but to listen to the dx cops who consistantly 
xmit on the dx frequency need to really observe the harm they actually 
cause. I for one had made that mistake by using the wrong vfo but to have 4 
people telling me up makes it much worse.


73s
john-n3drk


- Original Message - 
From: "J F" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elecraft Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 7:59 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K7C



Something to keep in mind, the MAJORITY of major
DXpeditions work split 1 to 5 kHz up. If K7C has made
any mistakes, it's probably working simplex a few
times when things were quiet.
Folks in Az to the Pacific coast generally will hear
them sooner and louder, but it does not mean that they
are having reciprocal propagation. They may be swamped
by JAs and hardly hearing a W7 with 5 elements and
2KW.
The worst problems are folks calling others lids OTA
on top of the DX. What's the point of that? UP
sometimes helps, even veterans (who, like me from time
to time, have hit RIT instead of XIT or switched out
the 2nd VFO). Stuff happens... Patience pays!
Don't give up, look for better opportunities...
73,
Julius
n2wn
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[Elecraft] Can the external Auto Tuner be used with other rigs?

[Darwin, Keith]

I'm interested in some day getting a K2.  Currently I'm setting up an
antenna that could really benefit from an auto tuner, preferably located
at the antenna feed point.  I'm considering the Elecraft auto tuner.
 
Can it be run with rigs other than the K2?
 
Is it durable enough to work in outside temperatures (Winter in VT)?
 
Can it be run remotely?
 
- Keith -
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[Elecraft] K7C

[J F]

Something to keep in mind, the MAJORITY of major
DXpeditions work split 1 to 5 kHz up. If K7C has made
any mistakes, it's probably working simplex a few
times when things were quiet.
Folks in Az to the Pacific coast generally will hear
them sooner and louder, but it does not mean that they
are having reciprocal propagation. They may be swamped
by JAs and hardly hearing a W7 with 5 elements and
2KW.
The worst problems are folks calling others lids OTA
on top of the DX. What's the point of that? UP
sometimes helps, even veterans (who, like me from time
to time, have hit RIT instead of XIT or switched out
the 2nd VFO). Stuff happens... Patience pays!
Don't give up, look for better opportunities...
73,
Julius
n2wn
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