[Elecraft] Open Wire Feed Line Arrestor
Still running my K1 (#1423) on inefficient low antennas. I have some trees that will give me good height 50-60' and orient the main lobe of a double extended zepp (14MHz) toward Oregon, take notice ECN. I have come across a device that will keep the antenna at near DC ground at all times. http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/ice/impulse1.html go down to "Open Wire Arrestor", Model 309 "All units use torroidal inductors and present near dead DC short on antenna side of arrestor, constantly draining feedline wires of static and any developed voltage potential feedthrough breakdown voltage from input ports to output ports 4,000 to 6,000 volts. Arrestor units may be placed anywhere in the feedline at ground level without serious change in tuning, but small change may be detectable due "to small" increase in total feedline length caused by size of arrestor case & circuit." Just wondering if anyone else has used this or a similar item and what comments might be made. Just trying to be save from lightning. I would also put a DPDT knife switch between the feed line and the K1 with BL2 to ground the feed line when not in use. Thanks all. 73, W1TF, Ty in GA __ Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less. dsl.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 backlight control
Rather than sacrifice the AGC control, I handled the on/off of the K1 backlight by adding an internal on/off switch. I used a very small Elecraft DPDT switch left over from the K1 Upgrade Kit I installed awhile back (I didn't need the ability to turn the tx mixer on during receive, so the switch was unused). Looking at the the front panel's rear (where the MCU is located) I installed it on the upper right corner of the PC board. The switch is so small it is held in place with a tiny drop of medium thick CA glue. See picture at: http://home.earthlink.net/~windependent/images/switch.jpg I drilled two very small holes through the PC board with a pin vise and wired the switch in series with the anode of the backlight diode using kynar coated wire. I leave the light on all the time when at home in the shack (95% of my operating). When portable or if current drain is an issue, all i need to do is back out the 4 screws holding the front panel in place and flip the switch. Mike, AK3F K1 #522 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] T1 Antenna Considerations
Steve AA8AF wrote: Alan Chester (G3CCB)(SK) proposed a solution for the high end impedance of a 1/2 wave antenna. Mr. Chester rationalized that there might be some impedance-friendly length of wire usable for an end-fed antenna that didn't present the tough-to-tune, high-impedance load on a select set of bands. ... -- One way to look at it is that if the end-fed wire is longer than a 1/2 wave antenna, the extra length is simply a single-wire feedline. Of course, the 'feeder' will also radiate UNLESS one manages to match the impedance of that wire (roughly 600 ohms for a typical wire) to the feed point impedance. To do that, you move the feed point for the single wire away from the high impedance at the end and toward the lower impedance (73 ohms in free space) that will be found near the center. At some point that wire will see a good match and it will have no standing waves. No standing waves on even a signal unshielded wire means it won't radiate (ya' gotta have standing waves to make electromagnetic fields). Of course, exactly that was done by the famous Loren G. Windom (8GZ/W8GZ) and is known today as a Windom antenna. That's the REAL Windom, not the modern variations using open wire feeders that are really just off-center-fed doublets. Windom's antenna used a single wire feeder that did not radiate significantly, but it only worked properly at the one frequency at which the feed line was matched to the antenna. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 AGC Mod revisited
Ron ZL1TW and I have been bemoaning the slow recovery time of the AGC that we were experiencing with both of our K1's. Ron's been doing some experimenting as have I using componants from out junkboxes. What we ended up with was changing C31 from a 2.2ufd cap to a 0.22ufd cap. Ron added a 47k resistor between pins 9 and 10 of RP3.I had a 22k here and used that value in my K1. We then changed C67 to a .01. Basically it became an RF bypass cap rather than any kind of AGC timing cap. I would now describe the AGC time constant more along the lines of the "slow" agc setting of the K2 but much quicker than the stock K1. Additionally, in MY K1 I added a 0.47ufd cap in series between the /AGC OFF line and the positive side of C31.When I turn "OFF" my agc the time constant gets greater and sounds closer to a stock K1. A 1ufd or even the original 2.2 from c31 or C67 could be used here. I never use the K1 with the AGC off so this gives me a rudimentary "Fast/Slow" setting on my AGC. Of course...those of you who used the /AGC OFF line to change the brightness of the backlight would not be able to take advantage of this. Unless perhaps "Bright background = Fast AGC, Dim background = Slow AGC" 8-). Neither of us are recommending that anyone else make these changes. We're just letting people know in case there are others who find the slow recovery time of the AGC a bit too long for their liking in the stock K1. 73 de Tom K2TA K2-TA-100 #1117 K1-4 #2146 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] T1 Antenna Considerations
Mick,
Alan Chester (G3CCB)(SK) proposed a solution for the high end impedance of a
1/2 wave antenna. Mr. Chester rationalized that there might be some
impedance-friendly length of wire usable for an end-fed antenna that didn't
present the tough-to-tune, high-impedance load on a select set of bands. In
short, he proposed selecting an end-fed wire length in the 1/8 - 3/8 or 5/8
- 7/8 wavelength range, avoiding 1/2 wavelength (or multiples thereof).
In the article "Taming the End-Fed Antenna" ("The Antenna File", RGSB, pg
118) he looked at this issue by plotting various 1/2 wave lengths and
proposed the following end-fed wire lengths:
- 26.5m (86.9 ft) for 160 - 10M use
- 15m (49.2 ft) for 80, 40, 20, 17, 15, 12, 10M use
- 10m (32.8 ft) for 80, 40, 30, 17, 15, 12, 10M use
You can set up a spread-sheet and calculate wire lengths by increments of
1/8 wave, using band centers (or your desired band segment) as a starting
point. Look for wire lengths that don't fall on the 1/2 wave wire length.
For example, a 15m wire is about 3/8 wave on 40M, around 6/8 wave on 20M and
9/8 wave on 15M.
Steve
Aa8af
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 4:02 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] T1 Antenna Considerations
>
> Hello
> I have just received my T1 kit and i notice that under the
> above heading in the owners manual under random-wire antennas
> it states(avoid lengths close to a multiple of 1/2
> wavelength on any band) please can someone explain why this
> is important,also i wish to use this tuner on the following
> bands 20/15/10m so a suggested wire length would be
> appreciated I only have 40ft of space to play with.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Mick M1MGD K2#4785 K1#1532
> G-QRP 11355 ARCI 12343
___
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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: Jan 4 - Feb 6, 2006
~~ N2CQ QRP CALENDAR Jan 4 to Feb 5, 2006 ~~ 40 METER FOXHUNT - Each Friday 0200z to 0329z (Thurs 9 PM to 10:29 PM EST) 80 METER FOXHUNT - Each Wednesday 0200z to 0329z (Tues 9 PM to 10:29 PM EST) Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org ~~ The World QRP Federation (WQF) QRP Party (All) ... QRP Contest! Jan 6, z to 2400z Rules: http://ruqrp.narod.ru/wqf_e.htm ~~ Original QRP Contest (CW - 80, 40 & 20m) ... QRP Category Jan 7, 1500z to Jan 8, 1500z Rules: http://www.qrpcc.de/contestrules/oqrpr.html ~~ ARRL RTTY Roundup ... <= 150W Category Jan 7, 1800z to Jan 8, 2400z Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2006 ~~ EUCW 160 Meter Contest (CW) ... QRP Category Jan 7, 2000z to 2300z and Jan 8, 0400z to 0700z Rules: http://www.uft.net/articles.php?lng=fr&pg=123 ~~ DARC 10-Meter Contest ... <=100 W category Jan 8, 0900Z to 1059Z Rules: http://www.darc.de/referate/dx/xedczr.htm ~~ 070 Club PSKFEST Contest ... QRP Category Jan 14, z to 2400z Rules: http://www.podxs.com/html/pskfest.html ~~ Michigan QRP Club Contest (CW) ... QRP Contest! Jan 14, 1200z to Jan 15, 2359z Rules: http://www.qsl.net/miqrpclub/contest.html ~~ North American QSO Party (CW) (100w max. QRP Entries Noted) Jan 14, 1800z to Jan 15, 0600z Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/naqprules.php ~~ Run For The Bacon (CW) *** QRP Contest *** EST: Jan 15, 9:00 PM to 11:00 PM UTC: Jan 16, 0200z to 0400z Rules: http://fpqrp.com ~~ NACC Straight Key/Bug Sprint *** QRP CONTEST! *** EST: Jan 18, 8:30 PM to 10:30 PM UTC: Jan 19, 0130z to 0330z Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/contests.html ~~ LZ OPEN CONTEST (CW 80M/40M) ...QRP Category Jan 21, 0400z to 1200z Rules: http://www.linkove.com/lz-open-contest/ ~~ North American QSO Party (SSB) (100w max. QRP Entries Noted) Jan 21, 1800z to Jan 22, 0600z Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/naqprules.php ~~ ARRL January VHF Sweepstakes ... Low Power Category Jan 21, 1900z to Jan 23, 0400z Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2005 ~~ CQ WW 160-Meter DX Contest (CW) ... QRP Category Jan 28, z to Jan 29, 2359z Rules: http://www.cq-amateur-radio.com/awards.html ~~ BARTG RTTY Sprint Contest Jan 28, 1200z to Jan 29, 1200z Rules: http://www.bartg.demon.co.uk/Contests/06_sprint_rules.htm ~~ UBA DX Contest (Belgian) (SSB) ... QRP Category Jan 28, 1300z to Jan 29, 1300z Rules: http://www.uba.be/hf_contests/rules_en.html# ~~ 10-10 Int. Winter Phone QSO Party ... QRP Category Feb 4, 0001z to Feb 5, 2359z Rules: http://www.ten-ten.org/rules.html ~~ Minnesota QSO Party (All) ... QRP Category Feb 4, 1400z to 2400z Rules: http://www.w0aa.org/ ~~ FYBO Winter QRP Field Day (CW/SSB) ... QRP Contest! Feb 4, 1400z to 2400z Rules: http://www.azscqrpions.org/FYBO2006_01032006.htm ~~ AGCW Straight Key QSO Party (CW 80M) ... QRP Category Feb 4, 1600z to 1900z Rules: http://www.agcw.de/english/contest/htp_e.htm ~~ Delaware QSO Party (All) Feb 4, 1700z to Feb 5, 0500z Feb 5, 1300z to Feb 6, 0100z Rules: http://www.fsarc.org ~~ North American Sprint (Phone) ... QRP Category Feb 5, z to 0400z Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/sprintrules.php ~~ QRP ARCI Fireside Sprint (SSB) ...QRP Contest! Feb 5, 2000z to 2400z Rules: http://www.qrparci.org/ ~~ Thanks to SM3CER, WA7BNM, N0AX(ARRL) and others for assistance in compiling this calendar. Please foreward the contest info you
RE: [Elecraft] Speed Key Journal
Great stuff, Frank! Thanks... My K2 has been keyed with either a Vibroplex standard or an E.F. Johnson Speed-X bug for the past several years. The Speed-X I got in the 1950's when I passed the 13 wpm code test for my General Class Ham license. The Vibroplex was passed on to me by the widow of a good friend who had carried it all over the world aboard ships. I had used a keyer for over 20 years, starting with a homebrew CMOS "Accu-keyer". After a few years I discovered that I could no longer use my bugs. I had forgotten the timing and even 'froze' trying to make dashes. My hand insisted on holding the paddle waiting for the key to make them for me! Perhaps it made it worse that I was very facile using the squeeze or "Iambic" mode with a keyer. I used to QSO with some O.T.s who, like me, had commercial experience. One in particular kidded me about using my "electronic brain" instead of a key. I took it in good nature, but I missed using the bugs. Then, one day, after an absence of months, I ran across that op again. His fist sounded very strange. He explained, and apologized, that he was using a keyboard. He had suffered a stroke and lost the fine motor control of his hands needed to operate a bug. He was sending code now by poking at the buttons on a keyboard. That day I got out my bugs and began daily practice. In not too long I was comfortable again to put them on the air, and they have been a source of great enjoyment ever since. When I do switch to a keyer for the portability, such as the one in my KX1, I'm careful to operate it just as I would a bug, avoiding the tendency to let "it" start doing the work for me (although, of course, it is. I just pretend that I have to make the dashes and insert the right spaces ). But the feel is totally different. A bug requires some force behind it compared to paddles. No "light touch" there! One time just a few years ago I sat down at a mill (an all-caps manual typewriter used to copy messages on a commercial CW circuit) and thought it was broken! I hit the keys and nothing happened. The problem was I was tapping them like I do a computer keyboard. That wasn't enough force to move the keys at all on the mill! I had to act like I was driving the keys through the desktop operate the machine, and I was amazed that I had, years ago, done that for hours on end without thinking about it. Compared to wiggling a modern set of paddles, operating a bug is much like that. I've often warned new ops that using a bug is like sending CW by wiggling a long stick with a heavy bucket of loose bolts on the far end compared to using a modern set of paddles. But that doesn't mean that it's not a worth-while or enjoyable skill to develop. Some day I may be using a keyboard to send CW too. Some day I may not be able to go jogging any more or have to give up climbing towers and masts or doing a thousand other things I often take for granted. In the meantime, I'll take the challenge of each activity as long as I'm able, including operating a bug, and use it as a way to celebrate life itself. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- For all those that are interested in using and adjusting Speed Keys for use on the ham bands, I just finished a Journal about Speed Keys. With pictures and descriptions of Speed Keys as well as other interesting info on Telegraph Keys. With a large section on how to properly adjust a speed key. It would be great too hear more of the older speed keys on the ham bands :-) Frank W7IS At the following link: http://journals.aol.com/w7is/TELEGRAPHKEY/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft MD2
Gil, The graph at http://www.elecraft.com/MD2/md2_micrphone.htm shows the MD2 output to be at -40 dBm over most of the spectrum. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Does any one know the output of the MD2 mic in dB? It drives my > K2 just fine but am thinking of another mic setup. > > Thank youGil K8EAG > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] A "Stupid" Idea?
I'm not wellversed in the operation of email reflectors, so please bear with me if the following isn't a practical idea. I found the recent "stupid" thread to be entertaining and informative, but must agree that it strayed way off the subject of Elecrafts. Maybe there's a way to avoid clogging up the reflector and the archives with such posts, yet have them reach those who want them. Perhaps a filter of some sort could be incorporated into the reflector so that if a key phrase like "OT:" appears in the subject thread, all following emails would be redirected to a different reflector (call it "Elechat"). Those who don't mind such discussions would subscribe to both Elecraft and Elechat, while those who don't want to bother with OT threads would only subscribe to Elecraft. "Elechat" would not be permanently archived, either. Perhaps an 30 or 60 day archive could be used. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft MD2
Does any one know the output of the MD2 mic in dB? It drives my K2 just fine but am thinking of another mic setup. Thank youGil K8EAG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 SN 5295
K2 SN 5295 arrived today and will enjoy its home in Colorado. Looking forward to a prolonged and satisfying build experience. Thanks in advance for all your help, if needed. ... Craig AC0DS Craig D. Smith ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT
On Wed, 4 Jan 2006 17:03:40 -0800 (PST), "Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >five weeks allowance You had an allowance? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Speed Key Journal
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: For all those that are interested in using and adjusting Speed Keys for use on the ham bands, I just finished a Journal about Speed Keys. Very interesting, especially the part about having lots of tension on the dot lever coil spring. I struggled to make clean dots for years until AC7AC mentioned this to me! I've made a new year's resolution to use my bugs exclusively in 2006 (except for contests). I personally like the Lightning Bug style, but after reading your notes, maybe I will set up an Original and Lightning side by side to see the difference. I hope to hear plenty of mechanical speed keys this year! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Speed Key Journal
For all those that are interested in using and adjusting Speed Keys for use on the ham bands, I just finished a Journal about Speed Keys. With pictures and descriptions of Speed Keys as well as other interesting info on Telegraph Keys. With a large section on how to properly adjust a speed key. It would be great too hear more of the older speed keys on the ham bands :-) Frank W7IS At the following link: http://journals.aol.com/w7is/TELEGRAPHKEY/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Camp-Run-A-MOC Prize!
Hello all! As you might know, there will be a pack of polar bears in a den at the Mohican Outdoor Center from January 13 -15. I will be there too and I'll also backpack up the mountain to the ridge on the AT to operate Saturday. Look for me on 40m and 20m cw near the qrp frequencies on Saturday. Here's an added incentive to work WA3WSJ. ** The op who has the most QSOs with WA3WSJ on this weekend will win a FREE SoftRock-40 Kit! Click on the link below to view! ** Only one QSO per band, mode and day count. So work me a couple times per day on different modes and or bands! Check it out at: http://www.wa3wsj.com/files/PolarBear2005.html Don't forget about PSK31 too! 72, Ed, WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Using K2 with broken D1 on the K60XV
Michael, You are correct - the PIN doides D1 and D2 form the T/R switch for the low power output. If you do not use the low power output, you can operate the K2 from the normal BNC antenna jack as usual without that diode installed. The number of bars on the K2 LED during transmit indicate the approximate power output of the K2 - if you had the LED Display set for RF, the Low power output set for 1 mW maximum, and the requested power set for 1 mW, the expected result would be all bars lighted. If you dialed only .5 mW on the K2 power request knob, one would expect only 5 of the bars lighted. If you have all bars lighted no matter what the power request setting, you should look into the circuits at the lower right quadrant of the K60XV schematic (labeled XVTR ALC) - you will find the problem with that portion of the circuit. I would need more detail to provide additional information. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > During last night trying to finish op the asssembly of the K60XV i > faced=a issue, that during the test on the transverter band (50 > MHz) the S=meter was showing full signal at all times. Only on > the transverter band n=t on 60M or any other band. In desperation > i was looking for bad soldering=pushing a little to the > components. I did hit D1, the pind diode that ofca=se broke. I > have ofcause placed an order to replace this diode, but it wil= > not arrive here for the weekend. Beeing a lazzy basterd, i like to > use th= K2 for the weekend, but i do not like to remove the K60XV > and put back th= components. Now the question, for what i can see > it will not be a issue t= use the K2 with the K60XV installed > with a broken or removed diode if&nbs=;a transverter is not used. > Did i get that wrong ?? > > If any comments on the S meter showing full signal, they are > welcome as =ell > > Thanks in advance > OZ1BZJ > > Michael > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] T1 Antenna Considerations
On Jan 5, 2006, at 10:43 AM, Martin Gillen wrote: Hi, Peter. Please excuse my ignorance I'm fairly new to amateur radio ;) But I have a question: The only reason that the "use the nearby bushes" construct now can be tuned by the T1 is that the impedance goes low because a part of the antenna is lying "on the floor" now, giving high capacitance against ground which allways lowers the impedance. Yes, I understand that; any radiation from the counterpoise is effectively lost into the ground. However another antenna I have used is a 66ft length of wire at 15feet, fed in the centre with 300 ohm twinlead. In this case, the driven half of the wire is still 33ft long - but I get really low SWR om 20m and have worked DX with it, So why does that work? Is the feedline doing something to help me out here? Or is a dipole just a completely different scenario altogether? In the case of a dipole, both halves of the wire are driven and contribute to the radiation pattern. Ideally the feedline will have equal but opposite currents in each conductor and will not radiate. This antenna is about a half-wavelength long and has a feedpoint impedance of approx. 73 ohms. The 300 ohm feedline will transform this to a different value (depending on the length), but this will certainly be within the range of a T1 (which should be used with a balun like the Elecraft BL-1, since you have a balanced antenna and the T1 is designed for an unbalanced case). 73, Bob N7XY K2 #3273 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: "Stupid" -- END OF THREAD
The signal to noise ratio Good point, Dave. End of thread, please! Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT
Indeed. The signal to noise ratio on this reflector is getting beyond a joke & it must really irritate people who have dialup accounts. What makes it worse is that all this OT drivel ends up in the searchable archives. 73, Dave G3VGR K2 #4783 n3drk wrote: I am surprised the moderators have not stepped in to end these stupid, stupid and more stupid posts. Geez, and I thought the SKN was bad. What happened to Elecraft questions? 73s john - Original Message - From: "Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 8:03 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT One dangerous (electrical) mistake was at 9 years old. Sent away to Johnson Smith & Co. for plans and parts to make a radio the ad said, used no batteries or electrical power. It turned out to be a crystal set complete with cat-whisker, crystal, terminals, coil form, and wire. I followed the directions faithfully and bought an old junk store 50 cent headphone set (five weeks allowance..) I had no idea what an antenna or ground was, and neither did anyone else in my family. So I put on the headphones and inserted the bare antenna and ground leads into the house power socket. There was a flash and the house went dark. My mom excitedly replaced the fuses. I inspected the circuit, reversed the two wires and did it again. Same problem, but with a stern warning never to do that again.. Another stupid mistake was committed a month ago as I plugged in a "new" antique Heathkit Condenser checker without checking the AC wiring. The person who wired it long ago connected the hot side of the AC line to the black ground probe and as soon as the probe touched a chassis that I was working on, there was an amazing blast of light and a bang just before the room went black...I sat there for a very long moment contemplating life, and wondering if I was still here on earth. Could feel my pulse pounding in my temples, and that was a very good sign. Could have been easily killed either time. Guess there must be some other purpose for staying here on earth... and I'm dying to find out what. Jim - W1FMR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: RE: [Elecraft] T1 Antenna Considerations
Martin wrote: "...another antenna I have used is a 66ft length of wire at 15feet, fed in the centre with 300 ohm twinlead. In this case, the driven half of the wire is still 33ft long - but I get really low SWR om 20m and have worked DX with it, So why does that work? Is the feedline doing something to help me out here? Or is a dipole just a completely different scenario altogether?.." -- You are describing a classic "doublet" antenna, Martin (a dipole is, by definition, exactly 1/2 wave long and may be fed anywhere: center, off-center or at the end. The "dipole" or "two poles" refer to the two electrostatic poles set up at the ends of a radiator when it is exactly 1/2 wavelength long). In your doublet both sides radiate, as you observed. Feedline losses are relatively low because it is of a relatively high impedance (compared to common coaxial lines), which reduces the SWR the feeders may experience under extreme conditions. For highest efficiency, an impedance in the 400-600 ohm range is often used. Another disadvantage of twin-lead is that its electrical characteristics may change significantly with moisture, snow and ice. True open wire with virtually all air dielectric is much more stable in that regard. In this case the feedline acts as an impedance transformer. In another post I explained how the famous Zeppelin antenna behaves with a 1/4 wave feed line transforming the very high impedance at the end of the 1/2 wave wire to a low impedance at the rig. The same thing happens here, although exactly what the impedances being 'seen' by the rig are change dramatically from band to band. Most hams simply add or, if possible prune, some feeder to find a length their matching network (antenna "tuner") can handle on all the bands they want to use. As the antenna is made shorter than 1/2 wavelength, the impedance at the center drops very quickly. However, if the missing length is made up in the length of the feed line (e.g. a 33 foot radiator and a 33 foot feed line will be very close to 1/2 wave long on 80 meters) the effect at the transmitter end will be very small. However, since radiation from the feedline of a center fed doublet is minimal if balanced feed is used, the field strength of such an antenna drops as the radiator part becomes shorter and shorter. It's not too bad as long as the radiator is at least 1/4 wavelength long. If I recall correctly, such an antenna is only about 1 dB (1/6 of a typical "S" unit) lower than a half wave radiator. So a 66 foot long doublet will do a very good job down as low as 3.5 MHz, especially if the feed line is at least 33 feet long. The other issue is height above ground. A horizontal antenna's pattern is controlled a great deal by the height above ground in wavelengths. A horizontal antenna about 1/2 wave above ground is FB for DX with lobes at fairly low angles for DX that are as much as 6 dB - a whole S-unit - stronger than you'd get from, say, a good vertical, thanks to the reflection from the ground helping the signal. As the antenna gets closer to the ground the maximum radiation lobe moves more and more vertically until, at about 0.2 wavelengths above the ground the lobe points straight up. That's not much good for DX but it's great for short skip contacts out to about 1000 miles as the radiation straight up is scattered and reflected off of the ionosphere. Hams setting up antennas specifically for working other stations out to about 1000 miles often purposely put them fairly close to the ground for just that reason. Below 0.2 wavelengths, the main lobe continues to point straight up but grows weaker as the ground losses increase. So your 15 foot high 66 foot long antenna was a FB 40 meter short-skip antenna and it probably got out quite well for skip out to about 1000 miles on 80. On 20 you start working more DX with 15 and 10 meters being excellent DX bands for it. On those bands it is high enough for good low-angle lobes and at that length the pattern breaks up into multiple lobes that show significant gain over a half-wave radiator. When speaking of lobes, keep in mind that the radiation from an antenna is never zero in any direction. There's always some radiation in every direction. The lobes only indicate that some directions are favored more than others. And, as the QRP and QRPpers constantly prove, miniscule signals can work the world under the right directions. That's why even a low antenna like yours can, at the right times, work DX on 40 or even 80 meters. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Nickel Plateing
Andy, I had good results with Graves Plating Co. in Florence, Alabama. They do a lot of restoration work. http://www.gravesplating.com/ You might also consider asking Vibroplex who they use. They are still in business in Mobile, Alabama. http://www.vibroplex.com/ Bob WB4TGG Andy GM0NWI wrote: Guy's.. Just wanted to ask,... Does anyone on the list, know of a company in the the US, where I could enquire about having an item here in the shack (UK), re-nickel plated..? The item is, a "1924 Vibroplex Code Martin Junior" morse key, bought by myself on that site that can't be mentioned.. I've spent the best part of a year of my life, "restoring" this key, back to just about fully working order, although not a patch on the restorations (I dont think so anyway) of our very own Chuck Adams K7QO, I'm very pleased with my results for a first time tryin' my hand at a resoration project. There are some who would say, "leave it as is", and others who say "yep, that'll be nice when shineing again"believe me, I have been tossing with both ideas for about a year now...after all you guys saying such things..! I "wondered" in the beginning if the key COULD indeed be "restored", but with a little bit of patience, and a LOT of time, it is once again nearly "fully functional" as it was intended for back in 1924, all parts that were "stuck fast" are now free, and working as they should be, ...the only thing is "cosmetics" really,.. I feel that parts of the key could do, with some "restoration" on the nickel-plating side, as it wont be going anywhere in a hurry, and will stay in my possession, so I think its worth spending the money to have it done. I have looked over the net, but don't have any idea from the names seen, as to who might be interested in the job, mainly as the job will probably be seen as "small lot".. SO..! if there is anyone out there on the list who knows of such a company that might be interested in a "small lot job", or indeed someone who has in the past gotten this done to one of their own keys, say a "ham" out there willing to help me (i.e an address to send the key and some payment to where upon the subsequent "ham" could get the job done, and then send the key back to me in the post (paid by myself of course) , or indeed a "ham" who can help themselves with the key through experience, please can you let me know. Answers On A Postcard To The E-Mail Address Below.. 72's Andy GM0NWI [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: RE: [Elecraft] T1 Antenna Considerations
Hi, Peter. Please excuse my ignorance I'm fairly new to amateur radio ;) But I have a question: > The only reason that the "use the nearby bushes" > construct now can be tuned by the T1 is that the > impedance goes low because a part of the antenna is > lying "on the floor" now, giving high capacitance > against ground which allways lowers the impedance. Yes, I understand that; any radiation from the counterpoise is effectively lost into the ground. However another antenna I have used is a 66ft length of wire at 15feet, fed in the centre with 300 ohm twinlead. In this case, the driven half of the wire is still 33ft long - but I get really low SWR om 20m and have worked DX with it, So why does that work? Is the feedline doing something to help me out here? Or is a dipole just a completely different scenario altogether? Thanks, Martin. ___ Yahoo! Exclusive Xmas Game, help Santa with his celebrity party - http://santas-christmas-party.yahoo.net/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Nickel Plateing
I've owned and written about motorcycles built all over the world. The best plating I have every seen was always on British motorcycles. Japanese motorcycle plating looks like it's done on plastic. American motorcycle plating LOOKS like plastic. German plating is technically very good but unremarkable. British plating is indescribable. It has subtle depth and tone like no other finish. Somewhere, somehow there is a little shop in England that has survived the demise of the British motorcycle industry and can do a proper job on that Vibroplex. Unfortunately, it won't be like the original which, sad to say was typical of American plating. But after a year what's a little more time to get it right. Eric KE6US www.ke6us.com Wishing he still had his Red, White & Blue 1975 Norton Commando 850 Interstate -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Andy GM0NWI Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 10:12 PM To: Elecraft Reflector; QRP-L Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] Nickel Plateing Guy's.. Just wanted to ask,... Does anyone on the list, know of a company in the the US, where I could enquire about having an item here in the shack (UK), re-nickel plated..? The item is, a "1924 Vibroplex Code Martin Junior" morse key, bought by myself on that site that can't be mentioned.. I've spent the best part of a year of my life, "restoring" this key, back to just about fully working order, although not a patch on the restorations (I dont think so anyway) of our very own Chuck Adams K7QO, I'm very pleased with my results for a first time tryin' my hand at a resoration project. There are some who would say, "leave it as is", and others who say "yep, that'll be nice when shineing again"believe me, I have been tossing with both ideas for about a year now...after all you guys saying such things..! I "wondered" in the beginning if the key COULD indeed be "restored", but with a little bit of patience, and a LOT of time, it is once again nearly "fully functional" as it was intended for back in 1924, all parts that were "stuck fast" are now free, and working as they should be, ...the only thing is "cosmetics" really,.. I feel that parts of the key could do, with some "restoration" on the nickel-plating side, as it wont be going anywhere in a hurry, and will stay in my possession, so I think its worth spending the money to have it done. I have looked over the net, but don't have any idea from the names seen, as to who might be interested in the job, mainly as the job will probably be seen as "small lot".. SO..! if there is anyone out there on the list who knows of such a company that might be interested in a "small lot job", or indeed someone who has in the past gotten this done to one of their own keys, say a "ham" out there willing to help me (i.e an address to send the key and some payment to where upon the subsequent "ham" could get the job done, and then send the key back to me in the post (paid by myself of course) , or indeed a "ham" who can help themselves with the key through experience, please can you let me know. Answers On A Postcard To The E-Mail Address Below.. 72's Andy GM0NWI [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Minor kit building tip
Bill: For what little help it may be, I have on my web site (www.n0ss.net) searchable part location files for the K1 / K2 / KPA100 / KX1. These are PARTS PLACEMENT (only) files, so you don't have to step thru other textual references to the component if you're only looking for where the heck it is on the PC board. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS At 09:37 AM 1/5/2006, you wrote: The search function of the current Adobe PDF reader is quite handy for finding things in the manual. Example 1: Having just finished populating the caps on the Control Board, I noticed the spot for C44 was empty. A quick search of the PDF manual on "C44" took me to page 21 and explained that C44 is unused. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] [Fwd: Dumb Things]
I remember the hot dog cooker from my JHS days, as well. Things were different then! We had a rifle club with a shooting range in the basement and I would bring my .22 to school on my bike--an activity which would probably get you arrested today. I built my first transmitter in 1952. One day, after I had it finished a ham friend came over to take a look at it. He leaned over, resting his hand on the tuning capacitor which happened to be set with the plates fully meshed. Before I could tell him that the plate voltage was on he let out a scream, jumped back and took a look at the stripes on his palm. Bob, N7XY On Jan 5, 2006, at 5:54 AM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ Elecraft wrote: A repost for Fred, K6DGW. Original Message --- The definition of a "dumb thing" often changes over time. In Jr High electric shop in '53, we were given our choice of two projects: An electric motor that would run on a car battery, or a hot dog cooker. The hot dog cooker consisted of a wooden base through which two long nails had been driven, about 2/3 of a hot dog length apart. A lamp cord was soldered to the heads of the nails. To cook a hot dog, you performed the following steps (in the order shown, please): 1. Remove hot dog from package and push it onto the nails 2. Insert plug on the end of the lamp cord into a wall socket 3. Watch hot dog cook 4. Remove plug from wall socket 5. Remove hot dog I chose to build the motor ... not because I thought the hot dog cooker was absurdly dangerous (although I had just been licensed as KN6DGW so I was on a first name basis with a few electrons, but dangerous never occurred to me -- after all, the teacher gave us the projects, no?), but because while harder, the motor looked like more fun ... stuff moved. I would surmise that, given the general trend in product liability over the intervening years, the hot dog cooker is no longer a project choice in schools. Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw "The problem with 'Lessons Learned' is that so few ever really are." Leo Endres -- _..._ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Minor kit building tip
I've just started building K2#5290. Thought I would pass along a small building tip. The search function of the current Adobe PDF reader is quite handy for finding things in the manual. Example 1: Having just finished populating the caps on the Control Board, I noticed the spot for C44 was empty. A quick search of the PDF manual on "C44" took me to page 21 and explained that C44 is unused. Example 2: At this point I had expected all the non-electrolytic caps to be mounted, but I had one .01uF (103) left over. Since I had done a thorough inventory, I figured I screwed up. A search on "103" eventually took me to page 20 and the added C46 for the keying shaping circuit on the bottom side of the board. A caution... after finding your info in the PDF manual, double check with your errata marked-up paper manual! Anyway, the search function saves a lot of time flipping pages - and is undoubtedly more thorough than scanning with tired eyes. It works on the schematic pages too! Having fun! 73, Bill N2BC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] (no subject)
>Fred - KT5X wrote: >OK, HOW I DID IT !!! >First, I made a tool, a heat shield. I made this out of a piece of tin from an >Altoids box. I used a set of relay holes on the circuit board to mark ... That was ingenious, Fred, you should have done a video. Tom, AK2B ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Using the K2 with the XV144 and an external Linear
Glenn, If your Pre-Amp relay and your linear will switch in less than 15 ms or less, then you will not need the sequencer. The way it works is like this - when you operate the K2 PTT, The K2 will activate (ground) the transverter key-out and about 15 ms later RF will be present on the antenna output. So IF your linear and preamp relay can switch in that 15 ms time between Key Out going to ground and the onset of RF, you will not need your sequencer. OTOH, if your gear takes more time than 15 ms to fully switch, you will need the sequencer. Use of the transverter key out connector is more desirable than using the K2 PA keying output because the transverter key out signal applies only to that transverter while the K2 PA keying output will be active with no regard to which transverter is selected. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Hi Group, > > I'm presently running a K2 as an IF ( 28 Mhz ) and two Elecraft > TRansverters...the XV50 and the XV144 ( and hopefuly the XV432 soon ??? ). > > I have the System hooked up using the Daisy Chain Control cable as per > the instructions in the XV Transverter Manual. I use a Station Sequencer > that has the Station Mic plugged into it, and PTT from the Mic actuates > the Sequencer in the normal fashionfirstly changing over the Tx/Rx > Relay out at the Preamp, then keying up the Linear, then the XV144 and > finally, the K2 is keyed up. The Sequencer keys the XV144 via the Key In > Jack ( J4 ). > > However, looking at the whole System and the XV50 and 144, it is > apparent that the K2, when it has Transverters daisy chained off of it, > keys up each Transverter as commanded from the K2, depending on what > Transverter you select on the K2. The Transverters also have an External > PA Key out ( J5 ). My question is this > > Do I need the Sequencer...or, is the K2 smart enough in its firmware to > key the External PA Key line first, then the XV144/50 and then itself > via the Mic PTT on the K2 ? .i.e does the K2 recognise that a > Transverter Band has been selected, and key the external" Bits" before > keying itself to prevent hot switching etc. > > I can see that the Ext PA Key Out ( J5) is driven from P1 on the > Transverter, from a pin labelled " Key Out ". This appears to be > seperate from the 8R/Key Line. > > If this is the case, and the " Key Out " Line that drives Q4 goes high > before the 8R/Key line, the System already has some sequencing built in > and my external sequencer may not be required ? > > Any ideas out there > > 73 > Glenn > VK4TZL > > Happy Owner of a K2, K2/100 and XV50/XV144 Transverters...with a spare > space for the XV432 > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] [Fwd: Dumb Things]
A repost for Fred, K6DGW. Original Message --- The definition of a "dumb thing" often changes over time. In Jr High electric shop in '53, we were given our choice of two projects: An electric motor that would run on a car battery, or a hot dog cooker. The hot dog cooker consisted of a wooden base through which two long nails had been driven, about 2/3 of a hot dog length apart. A lamp cord was soldered to the heads of the nails. To cook a hot dog, you performed the following steps (in the order shown, please): 1. Remove hot dog from package and push it onto the nails 2. Insert plug on the end of the lamp cord into a wall socket 3. Watch hot dog cook 4. Remove plug from wall socket 5. Remove hot dog I chose to build the motor ... not because I thought the hot dog cooker was absurdly dangerous (although I had just been licensed as KN6DGW so I was on a first name basis with a few electrons, but dangerous never occurred to me -- after all, the teacher gave us the projects, no?), but because while harder, the motor looked like more fun ... stuff moved. I would surmise that, given the general trend in product liability over the intervening years, the hot dog cooker is no longer a project choice in schools. Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw "The problem with 'Lessons Learned' is that so few ever really are." Leo Endres -- _..._ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Nickel Plating
Andy ... I had some very nice nickel plating done a few years ago on my custom bicycle frame and was going to give you a link to the company in California (CycleArt) where I had it done. But I checked on the web and it appears that they are either out of business or headed in that direction. But there is still hope. At least here in the US, the custom motorcycle business is hot and heavy, and they rely heavily on nickel and chrome plating whereas bicycle technology has migrated to mostly carbon fiber, titanium, etc. I suggest (as did someone else here) that you contact some custom motorcycle shops. I'm sure that they can either do the work themselves or will hook you up with their plating people. After all the time/effort you have put into this project, the cost of the plating will be well justified! 73 Craig AC0DS Craig D. Smith ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT
In a message dated 1/4/06 8:31:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Ain't it sumpin' ... the moderators having a sense of humor and allowing us > to > express our own mistakes. > And to learn from the mistakes of others. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Using K2 with broken D1 on the K60XV
Hi During last night trying to finish op the asssembly of the K60XV i faced MHz) the S the transverter band n i was looking for bad soldering components. I did hit D1, the pind diode that ofca have ofcause placed an order to replace this diode, but it wil not arrive here for the weekend. Beeing a lazzy basterd, i like to use th and put back th it will not be a issue t with a broken or removed diode if&nbs Did i get that wrong ?? If any comments on the S meter showing full signal, they are welcome as Thanks in advance OZ1BZJ Michael ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Using the K2 with the XV144 and an external Linear
Hi Group, I'm presently running a K2 as an IF ( 28 Mhz ) and two Elecraft TRansverters...the XV50 and the XV144 ( and hopefuly the XV432 soon ??? ). I have the System hooked up using the Daisy Chain Control cable as per the instructions in the XV Transverter Manual. I use a Station Sequencer that has the Station Mic plugged into it, and PTT from the Mic actuates the Sequencer in the normal fashionfirstly changing over the Tx/Rx Relay out at the Preamp, then keying up the Linear, then the XV144 and finally, the K2 is keyed up. The Sequencer keys the XV144 via the Key In Jack ( J4 ). However, looking at the whole System and the XV50 and 144, it is apparent that the K2, when it has Transverters daisy chained off of it, keys up each Transverter as commanded from the K2, depending on what Transverter you select on the K2. The Transverters also have an External PA Key out ( J5 ). My question is this Do I need the Sequencer...or, is the K2 smart enough in its firmware to key the External PA Key line first, then the XV144/50 and then itself via the Mic PTT on the K2 ? .i.e does the K2 recognise that a Transverter Band has been selected, and key the external" Bits" before keying itself to prevent hot switching etc. I can see that the Ext PA Key Out ( J5) is driven from P1 on the Transverter, from a pin labelled " Key Out ". This appears to be seperate from the 8R/Key Line. If this is the case, and the " Key Out " Line that drives Q4 goes high before the 8R/Key line, the System already has some sequencing built in and my external sequencer may not be required ? Any ideas out there 73 Glenn VK4TZL Happy Owner of a K2, K2/100 and XV50/XV144 Transverters...with a spare space for the XV432 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.12/220 - Release Date: 3/01/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] T1 Antenna Considerations
Martin, > As previously stated a halfwave end fed wire represents a > very high impedance which is outside of the matching range of the T1. I agree, the impedance hight depends on the capacitive load of the wire ends against ground. > I have found that a halfwave long wire works as long as it is > fed against a raised counterpoise, ie. a wire lying over some > nearby bushes. In this case it works because the two wires > are really an off center fed dipole with the radio in the middle. But if you add any wire length to a Lambda/2 behind it´s feedpoint, the impedance will still be high, you still are feeding at Lambda/2. On a given length of long wire, the impedance is high every Lambda/2 length and low every Lambda/4 length. The only reason that the "use the nearby bushes" construct now can be tuned by the T1 is that the impedance goes low because a part of the antenna is lying "on the floor" now, giving high capacitance against ground which allways lowers the impedance. The worse thing is, that this part of the antenna now also is radiating into ground ;-( To make a t1 work with a halfwave, you may use a 15:1 / 9:1 Autotransformer directly in the feedpoint. A much better way has been published 1928 by the Austrian Radio Amateur FUCHS. He added another half wave to the antenna, but this halve wave is not a wire but formed by a parallel circuit. halfe wave wire_coil | / | / cap= / _ | / / | / /__ 50 Ohm But I agree, this is not a solution for the T1 In Germany the FUCHS ATU is very common in the QRP Area since the German QRP Club published an all band version. 72 de Peter, DL2Fi ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
