Re: [Elecraft] Re: Aussie Speak

[Andy McMullin]

On 10 Apr 2006, at 23:12, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


"Root" in Aussie-speak has a certain sexual connotation.



Now they really can get confusing! In particular their transparent  
sticky tape -- which in England is called by the trade name  
"cellotape" -- uses a different trade name: "durex" which we use to  
refer to condoms (or rubbers to you Americans).


Not only confusing in the shops, but the thought of getting the two  
mixed up sound painful too.


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RE: [Elecraft] Rework Eliminators? OK?

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Fred, N3CSY asked:

I'm wondering what plus & minus the "Rework
Eliminators" would buy me?

Do all these extra pcb's, jacks, plugs and add-ons
cause any RF or comm problems to the K2?  Potential
strays and parasitic R/L/C's could be a factor - I
wonder?

Will there be major take-apart work for me, when I go
back and decide to add SSB, NOISE BLANKER and DSP? 
Elecraft K2 notes don't seem to indicate this.

If I decide to sell a perfectly aligned basic K2 - and
build another, would adding "Rework Eliminators" add
or
take away from the K2?

-

Having read many, many posts on this subject, I'm coming to the conclusion
that it's like asking whether someone likes chocolate or vanilla ice cream
best. 

I built my K2/100 six years ago. It's been apart probably in excess of 100
times. If I built a new K2 today, I'd not use them. That's because I haven't
found it at all a nuisance to install modules as I went along, including the
connectors. For those modules that I didn't use, there are jumpers soldered
in place to bypass them so there's nothing to come loose. 

Others find it a pain to pull a panel. I found that one of the very nice
features of the K2: one can get inside in a flash with little effort or
bother. That's why I wouldn't bother. I can remove the most difficult panel,
the rear bottom plate that serves as the 10 watt final heat sink, in less
than a minute and  put it back in the same length of time. It's simple to
keep the heat sink hardware in  place: just don't let the screws fall out
and put the nuts back on while the cover is off. 

Others wince at the idea of pulling any cover off, so anything that avoids
that is helpful. For them the rework eliminators seem to be just the ticket!


So what it comes down to is this:

Others will have to speak to any electrical issues with the devices.

You will have to decide whether pulling a panel to install a module is worth
adding the rework eliminators. It isn't for me. It definitely is for others.


P.S. I prefer chocolate ice cream, if that's any help .

Ron AC7AC

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Re: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[kbgluxford]

And then there was the time when Winston was appointed First Sea Lord 
(Secretary for the Navy).  The appointment was seen as a poisoned 
chalice as there were considerable problems to be overcome.  An 
unsympathetic parliamentarian goaded Winnie by asking, "Well, how goes 
the Navy today?"


"Same as always, rum, sodomy and the lash."

73
Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP

Fred Jensen wrote:

The version I heard had a staffer marking up a memo Winnie had written,
and noting that he had ended a sentence with a preposition.  He
reportedly penciled in the margin, "This is an insubordination up with
which I will not put."

Regarding the original subject of this thread, my wife knows nothing
about ham radio, nor does she really care beyond the fact that I enjoy
it thus giving her license to enjoy her hobbies (knitting, needlepoint
[about as expensive as ham radio] and gardening).  However, I am
colorblind and there is no light, torch, or flashlight that will make
the color codes any more readable, so she learned the code, takes the
resistors under her Ott light and sorts them for me by value.  Wasn't
necessary on the K2, of course.  Thanks Eric and Wayne.

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw

Andy McMullin wrote:



On 10 Apr 2006, at 14:18, Dave Sublette wrote:

Winston Churchill once defined the United States and Great Britain  
as, "Two peoples separated by a common language."


K4TO



And he also said that "a preposition is a thing never to end a  
sentence with". My favourite though is the reported exchange with  
Lady Astor:





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[Elecraft] Rework Eliminators

[Mike Short]

Another advantage is if you buy an option like KSB or one of the filters and
decide it isn't what you want, just unplug it, install the bypass header,
and sell it.
No disassembly, etc. 
 
Mike
AI4NS
K2 #5163 (almost finished, including the rework eliminators)
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Re: [Elecraft] Rework Eliminators? OK?

[k4zm]

I'm wondering what plus & minus the "Rework
Eliminators" would buy me?



The Rework Eliminator does exactly what the name implies.  If you chose to 
install them at the time of building then you can add K2 options at anytime 
by simply removing the unmodule and plugging in the option.  It eliminates 
the necessity to tear the K2 apart an remove some components and install 
others.  With the KSB2 you have to remove the control board remove the front 
panel and remove the front panel circuit board from the actual panel which 
requires the removal of all knobs and then install the trnasistor a couple 
of resistors and several capacitors and a diode and the 16 pin connector on 
the back of the board.  This means soldering in so very tight quarters to 
install this connector.  Also it requires the removal of two jumpers and a 
.001 capacitor on the RF Board.  This requires that you remove the botom 
cover.  The Noise Blanker requires that you remove three resistors from the 
RF board and a jumper and reinstalling a resistor and a jumper.  The KPA100 
option requires that you install a power connector on the RF board in a area 
under the Heat sink  so it requires the removal and replacement of the heat 
sink which is a tricky operation and can lead to a shorted final transistor. 
The 60 meter option and the K160RX also require the removal of the Heat 
sink. The 60 meter option requires the installation of a couple of 
capacitors and a run of rg 174 coax and one end is connected under the Heat 
shield.  I have installed them in one K2 that I built for a fellow in 
Virgina and I highly recommend the instal of them at the time of the build 
if you plan to install the options at a later date.  If you plan to install 
them at the same time as you build the K2 then they are not needed as you 
can get the parts needed from the respective options as you build the K2.


73
K4ZM 



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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 and KXB3080 L3 Mod

[Alexandra Carter]

Now I'm a little less worried about the 3080 module, I guess it won't 
turn the KX1 into a QRPp rig after all! 73 de Alex NS6Y


On Apr 10, 2006, at 6:15 PM, Chuck Gehring wrote:


My KXB3080 L3 Modification

The L3 Mod is complete and working fine.

Before I installed the R11, R30 resistors, my KX1 power out with 13.7 
VDC

was:

80m 3.1 watts
40m 2.9 watts
30m 3.4 watts
20m 2.6 watts

With the R11, R30 resistors installed and 13.7 VDC power out was:

80m 3.7 watts
40m 3.6 watts
30m 4.2 watts
20m 3.3 watts

I just completed the L3 modification and my KX1 power out is:

80m 3.9 watts
40m 3.7 watts
30m 4.3 watts
20m 3.4 watts

73 KI4DGH
Chuck Gehring


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[Elecraft] KX1 and KXB3080 L3 Mod

[Chuck Gehring]

My KXB3080 L3 Modification

The L3 Mod is complete and working fine.

Before I installed the R11, R30 resistors, my KX1 power out with 13.7 VDC
was:

80m 3.1 watts
40m 2.9 watts
30m 3.4 watts
20m 2.6 watts

With the R11, R30 resistors installed and 13.7 VDC power out was:

80m 3.7 watts
40m 3.6 watts
30m 4.2 watts
20m 3.3 watts

I just completed the L3 modification and my KX1 power out is:

80m 3.9 watts
40m 3.7 watts
30m 4.3 watts
20m 3.4 watts

Power out was measured with into a DL1 (Dummy Load) and measured with a DMM.
Granted the power out from beginning to end was not really that significant
in the big scheme of things. It was simply an opportunity to burn some
solder and learn a little more about my radios.

I really do appreciate everything Wayne, Eric, Gary Surrency and everyone
else at Elecraft continues to do for Elecraft builders, the general Ham
population and myself.

Three years ago I would have never dreamed of building a radio.  Two years
ago when I built my KX1, I prayed that I got everything right the first
time, because I didn't think I would be able to find and fix any problems.
Just thinking about winding Toroids put me into a sweat.  Now it seems like
one of the best things about being a ham is the tweaking, and fixing.

Thank you so very much

73 KI4DGH
Chuck Gehring
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Re: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[N2EY]

In a message dated 4/10/06 10:20:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


> I believe the conversation continued with Lady Astor saying, "Sir, if 
> you were my husband, I would poison your tea."  Whereupon Sir Winston 
> replied,"Madam, if you were my wife, I would drink it!"
> 

I recall that at one point Sir Winston was in a parliament chamber or some 
such - one of those grand rotunda places - and someone remarked that Sir 
Winston 
had reportedly drunk enough brandy in his lifetime to fill up the room to the 
first balcony.

Sir Winston looked up at the great domed ceiling and said:

"So much more to doso little time.."

73 de Jim N2EY

btw - in the 1997 Cameron blockbuster "Titanic", the lookout says quite an 
expletive when he first sights the iceberg. But it goes right by most Americans.
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[Elecraft] April NAQCC Sprint

[Larry Makoski W2LJ]

The NAQCC QRP CW Sprint for April is this coming Tuesday night April 
11th (Wednesday  morning, April 12th UTC time).  This month, there will 
be two time periods open for the contest to benefit Amateurs on the West 
coast.  The available time periods are 8:30 to 10.30 PM EST or 8:30 to 
10:30 PST (0030 to 0230 and 0330 to 0530 UTC).  You may operate both 
time periods; but you may only submit a log for ONE time period.


This month's Sprint will be held on 80 Meters AND 40 Meters. However, a 
special certificate will be issued to the contestant who makes the most 
QSOs on 80 Meters.


Those who wish to initiate calls, please use "CQ NA".

The exchange is RST - SPC - NAQCC Member Nr.  (for those who wish to 
participate that are not NAQCC members, simply substitute the member 
number with your output power.  Please use a "W" to indicate that you 
are sending a power output figure!


A bonus is awarded as follows:

If you use only a straight key for the entire sprint, multiply your 
score by 2.

If you use only a bug for the entire sprint, multiply your score by 1.5.
If you use a keyer, keyboard, or computer, there is no bonus multiplier

ALL amateurs may participate; but only those using QRP power levels may 
compete for awards.


For details - please check: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/sprint200604.html
To join the NAQCC please check: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/joinup.html

All contest logs must be submitted by no later than 2400 UTC on April 
18th, 2006.



Larry W2LJ
NAQCC #35

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[Elecraft] Re: Aussie Speak

[w6jd]

"Root" in Aussie-speak has a certain sexual connotation.

Doug
W6JD
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[Elecraft] KNB2

[Evert Bakker (PA2KW)]

Hello all,

 

I'm sorry, but again the KNB2.

I wrote some mails a few months ago about the effectiveness of the KNB2 in
my specific situation. I was not happy with the performance as delivered
from factory.

So I changed the capacitors C11 and C12 as proposed by Larry W1HUE/7.
Unfortunately I had no result in my specific case. I just wanted to let you
know.

Still story will continue unless..

 

Evert, PA2KW 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] And Then There's The Aussies

[John]

My XLY, daughter, and I went there in 1978 for a two year stint. The XYL 
and daughter learned quickly not to "root" for the team.


john
k7up
ex-VK5SZ 


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[Elecraft] Rework Eliminators? OK?

[Fred (FL)]

I'm 40/100 thru my K2 #5422 kit.

I'm wondering what plus & minus the "Rework
Eliminators" would buy me?

Do all these extra pcb's, jacks, plugs and add-ons
cause any RF or comm problems to the K2?  Potential
strays and parasitic R/L/C's could be a factor - I
wonder?

Will there be major take-apart work for me, when I go
back and decide to add SSB, NOISE BLANKER and DSP? 
Elecraft K2 notes don't seem to indicate this.

If I decide to sell a perfectly aligned basic K2 - and
build another, would adding "Rework Eliminators" add
or
take away from the K2?

Thanks,
73's
Fred N3CSY

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[Elecraft] KX1 and KXB3080 Builder Alert regarding TX on 80-m (L3 heating)

[wayne burdick]

It has been reported that L3 on the KX1's main board can become hot to 
the touch when using the KX1 on 80 meters at full power (3 to 4 watts). 
We verified this in the lab. The temperature rises enough after a few 
seconds of continuous key-down time to cause a decrease in transmit 
power output and efficiency. The remedy is to increase the number of 
turns on L3 from 6 turns to 18 turns. This has no negative effect on 
any other band. Both the KX1 and KXB3080 manuals will be updated 
immediately to reflect this.


We recommend that this change be made to all KX1s to be used on 80 
meters. The change to L3 is best accomplished by removing the KX1's PC 
board from the case. All that is necessary is to remove the original 
6-turn winding and rewind L3 with 18 turns of #26 enamel wire.


If you don't have enough #26 enamel wire left over from the KX1 or 
another kit, we'll send you some upon request (send your request to 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]).


73,
Wayne
N6KR

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] My Noise Blanker REALLY works!

[Bob Evans]

I have had my K2s for several months now and have never had occasion to see
the NB really do a number on any of the noises I have run across on HF.  It
wasn't much of a problem because I was always able to work through any
particular noise and I assumed the noise was more atmospheric than anything
else.  Well, the other night, I was playing around at 2AM on 40M and an S9
intermittent noise popped up that probably was a neighbor's outside halogen
yard light arcing over in the thick morning fog.  I pushed the NB button and
the noise absolutely disappeared. I couldn't believe my ears until I turned
the NB off and the noise was S9 again.  Man, that was impressive!  I had
thought the NB in the K2 was just a novelty until I saw this particular
noise get erased so completely.  I continue to be more and more impressed
with these radios.
 
Bob K5WA 
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[Elecraft] And Then There's The Aussies

[w6jd]

My girlfriend, myself  and an Aussie exchange student had gone to a Stanford 
football game...I can still see the look on his face when my girlfriend 
mentioned that she was "rooting"  for Stanford.

Doug
W6JD 
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Re: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[Fred Jensen]

The version I heard had a staffer marking up a memo Winnie had written,
and noting that he had ended a sentence with a preposition.  He
reportedly penciled in the margin, "This is an insubordination up with
which I will not put."

Regarding the original subject of this thread, my wife knows nothing
about ham radio, nor does she really care beyond the fact that I enjoy
it thus giving her license to enjoy her hobbies (knitting, needlepoint
[about as expensive as ham radio] and gardening).  However, I am
colorblind and there is no light, torch, or flashlight that will make
the color codes any more readable, so she learned the code, takes the
resistors under her Ott light and sorts them for me by value.  Wasn't
necessary on the K2, of course.  Thanks Eric and Wayne.

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw

Andy McMullin wrote:



On 10 Apr 2006, at 14:18, Dave Sublette wrote:

Winston Churchill once defined the United States and Great Britain  
as, "Two peoples separated by a common language."


K4TO



And he also said that "a preposition is a thing never to end a  
sentence with". My favourite though is the reported exchange with  
Lady Astor:





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Re: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[Tony Morgan]

Wish I'd known sooner.
Smoked a couple of resistors using my mini butane torch trying to read 
the colors!

:-D

Tony W7GO

Darwin, Keith wrote:

Torch - that would be "flashlight" for all us Americans.

:-)

Cheers!

- Keith KD1E - 


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of ron_w
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 4:57 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Color code help?

Hi,
  I just made a discovery today that might help others having
difficulty identifying color code bands on resistors and the
like...especially if you aren't working in natural lighting conditions.
Go buy one of those dinky LED torches and shine that on the
resistorsit makes the colors *really* stand out..far more so
than a "normal" torch.
FWIW
Cheers...Ron ZL1TW
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[Elecraft] Q: Power reduction in K2

[Bekir Kemal Ataman]

I had written:

>I need to reduce the (actual forward) power output of my K2 to 5 watts. I
>remember reading about how to do it somewhere in the manual but cannot seem
>to find it now. Please help.

Many thanks to all who have responded so promptly. I now see that I had to
express myself better.

Glenn ON4WIX, kindly, pointed me to Appendix B of the manual for a
description on how to do this via the hardware.

However, since I am not exactly a builder, I am looking for a way to limit
the power via the menus. P. 94 of the manual shows how to do it for 10 and
12 meters via the secondary menu. I thought there was a way to do it for
other bands as well (again via the menus) but perhaps I am wrong.

73!
de TA2RX

--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 5411 is official!

[Walt Armour]

Congrats, from the guy who isn't sure when he is going to be able to buy
his.  Hopefully by the end of the summer...

Makes me feel better to see so many happy endings.  Hopefully I won't
bring the curve down too far.  :)


On Mon, 2006-04-10 at 09:06 -0400, Darwin, Keith wrote:
> Last night I put a check mark next to the step that said "Attach the
> self-adhesive serial number label to the rear panel...".  With that, my
> rig is complete.  Finished.  Done.  Until the next time I open it up to
> mod or adjust it ;-)
>  
> I built a bare-bones K2 using the Rework Eliminators and pre-wound
> inductors.  For the benefit of the others on-list who are wondering
> about building a K2, here are some of the lessons I learned with this,
> my first "real" kit.
>  
> 1.  Follow the directions very carefully.  Slow down, read them, read
> them again.  Do just what they say, not what you *think* they are
> saying.  This one step will avoid much hassle.
>  
> 2.  Sort the parts, do the inventory.  I did not (no space) and was OK
> but I did do it for the caps on the RF board.  It helped a lot.  I found
> a couple missing but was able to backfill and keep going.
>  
> 3.  Check your solder joints.  The only problems I had were due to bad
> solder joints.  S-meter worked fine at first, then didn't work.  I
> reflowed several joints and it's working fine now.
>  
> 4.  Visually inspect the board.  I thought this was a STUPID WASTE OF
> TIME, especially with how careful I had been.  But I did it anyway.
> Guess what - I found 2 unsoldered pins and several that now looked
> poorly soldered.  I spent probably 30 minutes checking the board and
> resoldering.
>  
> My rig sailed through the final alignment steps.  Everything worked
> right the first time and is performing within specs.  RX performance is
> cleaner than my IC-735.  Current draw is substantially less.  The basic
> K2 is indeed a very sweet performing rig.
>  
> 
> 
> Pre-wound Inductors:
>  
> Mine were well wound, perfectly sorted and simply beautiful.  I am very
> glad I went this route.  Well worth the price.  I'll be going this route
> with any options I add to my rig.
>  
> 
> 
> Rework Eliminators.
>  
> I had no problems at all once I updated the installation procedures to
> include the extra steps.  The amount of extra work during the K2 build
> was trivial.  Not having to tear it apart to install options is a great
> benefit.  Not having to do any rework when I do options is of great
> value to me.  If I were to do it all again, I'd go this way in a
> heartbeat.
>  
> - Keith KD1E -
> - K2 5411 -
> - K1 1286 -
> ___
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73, Walt KE7GWZ

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[Elecraft] Q: Power reduction in K2

[Bekir Kemal Ataman]

I need to reduce the (actual forward) power output of my K2 to 5 watts. I
remember reading about how to do it somewhere in the manual but cannot seem
to find it now. Please help.

Greetings from Istanbul, Turkiye
BKA (TA2RX)

--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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[Elecraft] Battery Charger EMI

[Jack Shrawder]

I have experienced a 17-meter, signal-killing, pulse-type, high noise  
level problem for several months now.  I finally tracked it down to  
the battery charger that keeps a sump pump's inverter gel-cell,  
sealed Pb Acid batteries (80 amp/hr total) ready to supply power in  
event of a AC network failure.


Any thoughts on the best approach to correcting problem would be  
appreciated?   Call manufacturer and ask about filtering?  Look for a  
low EMI charger? If so what kind and from whom?  Other?


Thanks for any thoughts on this.

73, Jack
K2 3256

Jack H. Shrawder,
KT6JS
South Lake Tahoe, CA
96158

"Success is the only option."
--Dave Borges, DC



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Re: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[David Honey]

Some friends of mine from just outside Boston were amused some years ago 
when they were holidaying in the UK, and the landlady of the B&B asked what 
time they want to be knocked up in the morning.


vy 73, David M0DHO

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Re: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[Toby Deinhardt]

if she could borrow a rubber


I grew up in the States, but my mother is from the south of England.

She went into spasms the first time she was in the Lake District, and 
the mother of several children mentioned her "dear little buggers" 



vy 73 de toby

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[Elecraft] [OT] Re: Translation

[Thom R LaCosta]

On Mon, 10 Apr 2006, Nigel A. Gunn G8IFF/KC8NHF wrote:


You Americans really need to talk proper English like what we do.
A flash is something that stays on for a uselessly short time and then is 
expired.

We have torches... they go on and on and on and...


So do we, but they are most often employed by angry folks in the urban areas 
who feel the need to destroy property.


73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring,
QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database
www.tlchost.net/hosting/  ***  Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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Re: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[Dave Sublette]

I believe the conversation continued with Lady Astor saying, "Sir, if 
you were my husband, I would poison your tea."  Whereupon Sir Winston 
replied,"Madam, if you were my wife, I would drink it!"


Andy McMullin wrote:


On 10 Apr 2006, at 14:18, Dave Sublette wrote:

Winston Churchill once defined the United States and Great Britain 
as, "Two peoples separated by a common language."


K4TO



And he also said that "a preposition is a thing never to end a 
sentence with". My favourite though is the reported exchange with Lady 
Astor:


Her ladyship -- "Sir, you are drunk!"
Sir Winston -- "and Madam you are ugly; but in the morning I'll be sober"

Happy Easter

--Regards
Andy, G8TQH
http://www.rickham.net



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Englilsh as two languages Was:(Re: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[Mark Bayern]

well, if you're aiming below the belt ...

Try asking for a napkin while dining in London.

Churchill was right about the language separation.

On 4/10/06, David <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Oh you must be talking about the foreign exchange student from Cardiff
> south Wales who in the middle of a class raised her hand ask the teacher
> if she could borrow a rubber. I let you figure out what she was really
> asking for
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Re: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[Andy McMullin]

On 10 Apr 2006, at 14:18, Dave Sublette wrote:

Winston Churchill once defined the United States and Great Britain  
as, "Two peoples separated by a common language."


K4TO



And he also said that "a preposition is a thing never to end a  
sentence with". My favourite though is the reported exchange with  
Lady Astor:


Her ladyship -- "Sir, you are drunk!"
Sir Winston -- "and Madam you are ugly; but in the morning I'll be  
sober"


Happy Easter

--
Regards
Andy, G8TQH
http://www.rickham.net

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RE: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[David]

Oh you must be talking about the foreign exchange student from Cardiff
south Wales who in the middle of a class raised her hand ask the teacher
if she could borrow a rubber. I let you figure out what she was really
asking for

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Re: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[Dave Sublette]

Winston Churchill once defined the United States and Great Britain as, 
"Two peoples separated by a common language."


K4TO

Darwin, Keith wrote:

One of my favorites is car parts.  The hood is the bonnet.  The trunk is
the boot.  I think a fender is also different.

And of course UK women do not wear pants.

And don't ask for a bathroom.  Most public places in the UK don't have
them.

Just because they say "right" doesn't mean they think you are!

A lady in Wales said I looked shattered and wondered if I needed a kip.
Huh?


Yes, there is a difference between the English language and American and
it can make for some great fun when someone from one place visits the
other!

- Keith KD1E -

-Original Message-
From: Nigel A. Gunn G8IFF/KC8NHF [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 8:48 AM

To: Darwin, Keith
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

You Americans really need to talk proper English like what we do.
A flash is something that stays on for a uselessly short time and then
is expired.
We have torches... they go on and on and on and...

Darwin, Keith wrote:
  

Torch - that would be "flashlight" for all us Americans.

:-)

Cheers!

- Keith KD1E -

  



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[Elecraft] XV432 on the air!

[John D'Ausilio]

Finally got around to building the XV432 this weekend .. pretty much
goes together just like the other XV's, took me about 6 hours. Fired
up just fine, got it tweaked and on the air last evening.

I'll be drilling the prototype combination end-panel this evening, and
if all goes well I'll post a pic of the 4-band stack installed in the
Jitney tomorrow sometime.

de w1rt/r john
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[Elecraft] K2 5411 is official!

[Darwin, Keith]

Last night I put a check mark next to the step that said "Attach the
self-adhesive serial number label to the rear panel...".  With that, my
rig is complete.  Finished.  Done.  Until the next time I open it up to
mod or adjust it ;-)
 
I built a bare-bones K2 using the Rework Eliminators and pre-wound
inductors.  For the benefit of the others on-list who are wondering
about building a K2, here are some of the lessons I learned with this,
my first "real" kit.
 
1.  Follow the directions very carefully.  Slow down, read them, read
them again.  Do just what they say, not what you *think* they are
saying.  This one step will avoid much hassle.
 
2.  Sort the parts, do the inventory.  I did not (no space) and was OK
but I did do it for the caps on the RF board.  It helped a lot.  I found
a couple missing but was able to backfill and keep going.
 
3.  Check your solder joints.  The only problems I had were due to bad
solder joints.  S-meter worked fine at first, then didn't work.  I
reflowed several joints and it's working fine now.
 
4.  Visually inspect the board.  I thought this was a STUPID WASTE OF
TIME, especially with how careful I had been.  But I did it anyway.
Guess what - I found 2 unsoldered pins and several that now looked
poorly soldered.  I spent probably 30 minutes checking the board and
resoldering.
 
My rig sailed through the final alignment steps.  Everything worked
right the first time and is performing within specs.  RX performance is
cleaner than my IC-735.  Current draw is substantially less.  The basic
K2 is indeed a very sweet performing rig.
 
 
 
Pre-wound Inductors:
 
Mine were well wound, perfectly sorted and simply beautiful.  I am very
glad I went this route.  Well worth the price.  I'll be going this route
with any options I add to my rig.
 
 
 
Rework Eliminators.
 
I had no problems at all once I updated the installation procedures to
include the extra steps.  The amount of extra work during the K2 build
was trivial.  Not having to tear it apart to install options is a great
benefit.  Not having to do any rework when I do options is of great
value to me.  If I were to do it all again, I'd go this way in a
heartbeat.
 
- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -
- K1 1286 -
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RE: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[Darwin, Keith]

One of my favorites is car parts.  The hood is the bonnet.  The trunk is
the boot.  I think a fender is also different.

And of course UK women do not wear pants.

And don't ask for a bathroom.  Most public places in the UK don't have
them.

Just because they say "right" doesn't mean they think you are!

A lady in Wales said I looked shattered and wondered if I needed a kip.
Huh?


Yes, there is a difference between the English language and American and
it can make for some great fun when someone from one place visits the
other!

- Keith KD1E -

-Original Message-
From: Nigel A. Gunn G8IFF/KC8NHF [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 8:48 AM
To: Darwin, Keith
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

You Americans really need to talk proper English like what we do.
A flash is something that stays on for a uselessly short time and then
is expired.
We have torches... they go on and on and on and...

Darwin, Keith wrote:
> Torch - that would be "flashlight" for all us Americans.
>
> :-)
>
> Cheers!
>
> - Keith KD1E -
>
>   

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Re: Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[Nigel A. Gunn G8IFF/KC8NHF]

You Americans really need to talk proper English like what we do.
A flash is something that stays on for a uselessly short time and then 
is expired.

We have torches... they go on and on and on and...

Darwin, Keith wrote:

Torch - that would be "flashlight" for all us Americans.

:-)

Cheers!

- Keith KD1E - 

  


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Translation - RE: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[Darwin, Keith]

Torch - that would be "flashlight" for all us Americans.

:-)

Cheers!

- Keith KD1E - 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of ron_w
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 4:57 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Color code help?

Hi,
  I just made a discovery today that might help others having
difficulty identifying color code bands on resistors and the
like...especially if you aren't working in natural lighting conditions.
Go buy one of those dinky LED torches and shine that on the
resistorsit makes the colors *really* stand out..far more so
than a "normal" torch.
FWIW
Cheers...Ron ZL1TW
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RE: [Elecraft] New License!

[Darwin, Keith]

All Right John!  Whoo Hooo!!

You've entered into the "dark canyon" on K2 building.  That time when it
seems you'll never get it done.  Page after page of parts stuffing, many
parts, slow progress.  What bugged me the most with the RF board
build-up was the seemingly random nature of the parts stuffing at the
beginning.  That and hassle of mounting parts on the bottom of the board
(they don't solder as nicely there).  Still, a bad day at the bench
beats a good day at work!

73!

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -
- K1 1286 -

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Wiener
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 9:44 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New License!

Hey everybody!  My new call is AB8WH...checked for it today on ARRL
homepage.  I haven't been this excited since I reached drinking age (!)

I'm finally LEGAL!

I finally got through First Alignment of my K2 and am just starting the
unending cap soldering of the RF board...it's fun.

John
AB8WH
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Noise Blanker Problem (Feature?)

[John Reiser]

Hi Harvey,

This is for you.  As I said before on this list, If you are having QRN, try 
turning on the KNB2.  On some types, particularly anoying kind kind that 
sounds like frying bacon, it works superbly.  But it doesn't work for all 
kinds of QRN in my experience.  No noise blanker does.


I always try changing the threshhohd as well.  Most of the time I notice no 
change, but sometimes it makes the difference between being able to copy a 
signal and not.  Of course, this assumes that your KNB2 is correctly built.


73,

John (W2GW)

- Original Message - 
From: "Harvey Howell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Bob Patten" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elecraft 
Reflector" ; "Lyle Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Noise Blanker Problem (Feature?)


Hi Bob. I tried switching the NB threshold and it has no effect on the NR 
on my K2 s/n 5022.


Harvey KN6VP

- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Patten" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elecraft Reflector" 
; "Lyle Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 10:44 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Noise Blanker Problem (Feature?)


Hi Gary, I finally discovered what the NB was doing on every other 
threshhold change.  What I had perceived
as a drop in level was actually the DSP Noise Reduction being turned on 
and off.  Each time the NB is switched from
low to high threshhold, the DSP NR is either turned on or off depending 
on its present state.  I guess I should
consider this a bonus, since I only have to push one key (albeit twice) 
for NR instead of pushing Display
and Band+.   Now though, I'm wondering if this behaviour is unique to my 
K2 or if any with both Noise Blanker
and DSP installed exhibit the same?  You said you didn't hear any change 
on yours when cycling NB threshhold, but

did that K2 also have DSP installed?

I'll post this to the list also - maybe someone else can verify whether 
this is unique to mine or common to all...


--
73, Bob Patten, N4BPPlantation, FL

E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Website: http://www.qsl.net/n4bp
QRP ARCI #3412SOC #1ARS #799SMIRK #6625  FISTS #7871

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--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.0/305 - Release Date: 4/8/2006






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Re: [Elecraft] Color code help?

[Alexandra Carter]

I use an Ott-Lite, an even-spectrum light sold in art and office supply 
stores, great for kitbuilding and taking photos of small stuff too. In 
a pinch, a white LED light is also a very good light source - at worst 
some of them seem slightly bluish, most of the time the problem with 
lighting is too much yellow.


I also swear by having a dependable meter (fluke) and my AADE LC Meter 
for those cap and inductor jobs. The LC meter is a very easy kit, and 
costs $100, $130 or so if you order it built. When in doubt, check that 
part!


73 de Alex NS6Y

On Apr 10, 2006, at 1:57 AM, ron_w wrote:


Hi,
 I just made a discovery today that might help others having 
difficulty identifying color code bands on resistors and the 
like...especially if you aren't working in natural lighting 
conditions. Go buy one of those dinky LED torches and shine that on 
the resistorsit makes the colors *really* stand out..far more 
so  than a "normal" torch.

FWIW
Cheers...Ron ZL1TW


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Re: [Elecraft] KXB3080

[Paul - VE1DY]

I'd like to chime in.  I added the 80m band to my kx1 on Saturday, and
then gave it a real good work out...  it worked flawlessly and the
audio quality is excellent!

What a marvelous addition to the kx1.

73, Paul  -  ve1dy
Halifax, Nova Scotia
--
QRP-L #2507,  SKCC #91
www3.ns.sympatico.ca/ppike


On 4/10/06, Frederick Dwight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Wayne,
>  I just built installed and tested the KXB3080 modification in my KX1 and 
> everything went very smoothly.  I would like to congratulate you on this fine 
> product.
>Thanks,RickKL7CW   
> Palmer,  Alaska
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[Elecraft] UN1?

[K. Rice]

Chris writes:
 
> I have been infected with the idea that the 
> ferrite bead baluns have high loss and relatively low impedance,
> and that a better design uses coax wound through one or two binocular cores.

Hope you didn't catch it from me :)

Other things being equal, sleeve (W2DU) baluns/ununs aren't lossier than 
multiturn baluns, given that a bead sleeve is just the N=1 case
of an N-turn balun.  As long as the choice of coax and ferrite 
compound is reasonable, sleeve baluns don't have much loss.

The advantage of a multi-turn balun at QRP is that the common-mode
impedance increases as the square of the increase in the number of
turns.  Doubling the number of turns raises the common mode impedance
by a factor of four; tripling by a factor of nine, and so on.  

With 5 turns of coax on a one-inch stack of toroids, you've got about the
same common-mode impedance as 25 inches of bead sleeve, other things
being equal.  Thus the multi-turn balun can be smaller and lighter
by comparison with a W2DU balun having equivalent common-mode 
impedance.  

Being smaller, a multi-turn balun or unun has less surface area than an
impedance-equivalent W2DU balun, so it doesn't radiate heat as well.
That doesn't matter at QRP, but it's easy to cook a physically small
multiturn balun or unun at QRO if it's running against a high resistive
mismatch or imbalance.  

The multiturn balun trades away power handling capacity for a decrease
in size, which is usually a safe and advantageous thing to do at QRP.

Incidentally the W3EDP isn't expected to have a low SWR on multple 
bands. You just tune it up with the ATU and go.  What's nice about
the W3EDP is that it's not a half-wavelength on any of the amateur
bands, so it doesn't present thousands of ohms of impedance on
those bands.  As such, it can be tuned by a simple, low-excursion
L network without resorting to the sort of tank circuit that you
usually need to tune end-fed halfwaves.

73,
Ken
K3VV

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[Elecraft] Color code help?

[ron_w]

Hi,
 I just made a discovery today that might help others having 
difficulty identifying color code bands on resistors and the 
like...especially if you aren't working in natural lighting conditions. Go 
buy one of those dinky LED torches and shine that on the resistorsit 
makes the colors *really* stand out..far more so  than a "normal" torch.

FWIW
Cheers...Ron ZL1TW
 



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[Elecraft] KXB3080

[Frederick Dwight]

Wayne,
 I just built installed and tested the KXB3080 modification in my KX1 and 
everything went very smoothly.  I would like to congratulate you on this fine 
product.
   Thanks,RickKL7CW   
Palmer,  Alaska
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Re: [Elecraft] KXB-3080 after modification

[Leigh L. Klotz, Jr.]

OK, call me a nut. I checked my records and used to get 3.5W on 30 and
3W on 40.  So yes, call this a success.
Leigh/WA5ZNU

I wrote:
I made the drive modification and power output is up, but may not back 
quite up to what it was before, at least in my recollection, hi hi.
The instructions didn't call for any realignment afterwards, and I 
didn't do any.


The power figures below were calculated from the DL1, a DMM, and 
ATU=CAL, with a 13.2v power supply.

80m and 75m were at band edges; others were in the CW portion.

m  W
80 2.7
75 2.3
40 2.9
30 3.7
20 2.8

The supply voltage measured internally sags a bit more on TX than I'd 
expect: 0.5v vs 0.1v measured externally, but if I compensate for that 
and get 13.2V on the internal meter during TX with a variable supply, 
I still get only 3.0W on 40m, not the 3.5 I was getting before.


On internal batteries, 9.2v RX / 8.1v TX I get respectable results:

m  W
80 1.0
75 0.9
40 1.0
30 1.5
20 1.1

I would like to get the 3.5-4W output I was used to on 40m, and am a 
little bit jealous of the reports of others.  I realize it's only 
0.8db, it doesn't matter that much, and is likely due only to 
variation in components, and in fact if it had always been like this I 
probably wouldn't have given it a thought.  And if indeed there is a 
problem, it may be unrelated to the 80m option.   Yet it still nags at 
me.

Leigh / WA5ZNU

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