Re: [Elecraft] Re: What's wrong with Serial
Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604 wrote: This discussion is boring: Indeed. The radio is as the radio is- If you don't like the way your radio is, you can change the connectors to whatever you want, with a separate Murphy-proof connector for the AUX bus. It would only take some trace cutting and wiring, as well as finding the space for another connector. Simplest fix: Bend pin 4 in the male connector back and forth until it snaps, and stuff a toothpick in hole 4 of the female connector. Your special Elecraft cable will still fit, normal rs232 cables cannot accidentally be plugged in - at least not easily. Pin 4 is not used by any Elecraft accessories - they seem to have decided that it was better to use AUXBUS rather than using the ALC line for external power metering. -- Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209. use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED] Where there's a will, I want to be in it. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 Issue
Brian, I also notice that when I transmit now, I only get one LED at the far left of the display to pop on...it used to show three or four...external meter shows 3w usually. This is normal behaviour for a KX1 without the antenna tuner. Only with the KXAT1 in place it displays power output with 0.5 Watt/bar. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Issue
I agree. Is anyone else having trouble bringing up the Elecraft website? For the last few days, when I go to the site it takes several minutes to come up. If I go to no frames it comes up a little faster but not much. My ISP is Sprint/Embarq and they have been screwing with their internal network settings since the name change, so I wonder if that has anything to do with it. 73 - Original Message - From: Alexandra Carter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Brian Murrey [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 12:44 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Issue If it won't tune to a dummy load then something is really wrong. 73 de Alex NS.Y. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KX1 Issue
Brian, If you have relays clicking and it attempts to tune, then the firmware chip is likely just fine. You said it failed after a storm, which gives me cause to believe that the two diodes in the wattmeter should be replaced. Put new 1N5711s in the D1 and D2 positions and I would believe the problem will go away. Note that these diodes are sitting in the wattmeter section which hangs directly off the antenna jack, making them most vulnerable to static/lightning damage. Disconnect your rig from the antenna during a storm. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Any experts on KXAT1 debugging? Yesterday I had the KX1 in the car with the 20m hamstick and for about half the day I was about to work Florida, Mass, Texas...with 2w and the KX1. I was using the KXAT1 to tune my hamstick, even though I have the hamstick adjusted to 1.2 : 1 without the tuner. BIG storm comes along, I'm not running CW now, I'm driving and listening to CW and lots of static. So I shut off the rig and keep tooling on down the road. About 20 mins later I pull into Riley Park in Greenfield IN and and park so I can play radio...except the KXAT1 is saying I am only putting out .05 watts, then sometimes maybe .09 watts...SWR is like 8:1 now. So I move the car...I am in the clear...nothing metal near me...same thing. huh. When I get home I take the rig in to the radio room and attach it to the attic dipole, that never fails. I put it in auto tune mode...on 40m...SWR reads 9:1 on the KX1 but 1.2:1 on my external meter. I take it out of auto tune...do a manual tune...KXAT! says SWR is 9.9:1 and power out is less than half a watt...on a 14.0v power supply. So I go through the ATU setting, no error code (showing E00). I yank the KXAT1, jumper pins 1 and 3 on J7...which now makes it a KX1 without an internal ATU. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Any K2 experiences with MixW or Rigblaster Pro
Hello All, I'm looking at two devices, primarily for contest use: MixW and Rigblaster Pro. Has anyone used either with the K2 (and maybe N1MM)? Thanks, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Issue
Don, Thanks for the tip. I'll take a look at those. I was operating mobile with the KX1 and drove through a pretty strong thunderstorm, I was using a Anttron Hamwhip for 20m on the trunk mount. I did not build this KX1 or the KXAT1, I bought it from another ham and it was working great until the mobile operations on Monday. I think I have some 5711's in the junkbox. I'll try that tonight. I did a system reset on the KX1 also, but it didn't help. I did work Indy to San Diego last night on 2w and my attic dipole, so the main rig seems to be in good shape. 73 - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Brian Murrey [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 7:37 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KX1 Issue Brian, If you have relays clicking and it attempts to tune, then the firmware chip is likely just fine. You said it failed after a storm, which gives me cause to believe that the two diodes in the wattmeter should be replaced. Put new 1N5711s in the D1 and D2 positions and I would believe the problem will go away. Note that these diodes are sitting in the wattmeter section which hangs directly off the antenna jack, making them most vulnerable to static/lightning damage. Disconnect your rig from the antenna during a storm. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Any experts on KXAT1 debugging? Yesterday I had the KX1 in the car with the 20m hamstick and for about half the day I was about to work Florida, Mass, Texas...with 2w and the KX1. I was using the KXAT1 to tune my hamstick, even though I have the hamstick adjusted to 1.2 : 1 without the tuner. BIG storm comes along, I'm not running CW now, I'm driving and listening to CW and lots of static. So I shut off the rig and keep tooling on down the road. About 20 mins later I pull into Riley Park in Greenfield IN and and park so I can play radio...except the KXAT1 is saying I am only putting out .05 watts, then sometimes maybe .09 watts...SWR is like 8:1 now. So I move the car...I am in the clear...nothing metal near me...same thing. huh. When I get home I take the rig in to the radio room and attach it to the attic dipole, that never fails. I put it in auto tune mode...on 40m...SWR reads 9:1 on the KX1 but 1.2:1 on my external meter. I take it out of auto tune...do a manual tune...KXAT! says SWR is 9.9:1 and power out is less than half a watt...on a 14.0v power supply. So I go through the ATU setting, no error code (showing E00). I yank the KXAT1, jumper pins 1 and 3 on J7...which now makes it a KX1 without an internal ATU. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Q: Building the K2
Hi all, I will be passing my morse code exam soon and I was looking for the best radio to start with for CW. Up to now I'm pretty sure I will go with the K2. I just wanted to know if any special tools are required to complete the kit? I'm aware of what they say in the advertisement... But still, once I bought an OHR100 kit, claiming that no special tools were required, but at the end of the alignement stage, they *assumed* you already had another transceiver as your main rig to tune the OHR. Is this the case with the K2? Thanks, Jean-Francois VA2JFJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Serial Port
Another silly question: Just how many devices can I daisy chain from the K2 Serial Port? Currently, I just use the KAT100 and my computers, but soon I will need to connect the KRC2 and the controller for a SteppIr. Will I need to do anything special or ??? Cheers, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Stupid what??
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 08:12:18 -0600 From: Phil Townsend [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [QRP-L] Wayne...Eric...K2 with USB anytime soon?? To: n0tu/Steve [EMAIL PROTECTED], qrp-l [EMAIL PROTECTED], ElecraftLIST elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Seems to me most computers today are USB as a standard... I've put up with that stupid RS232 (standard???) for many more years than I care to think. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Serial Port
The KRC2 is an inline device, it has 2 DB9's on it. You cable from the K2 to the KRC2, then from KRC2 to downstream serial stuff like computer. I believe you cable to the KAT100 in parallel with the KRC2 .. check the KRC2 manual. I think you'll need a seperate serial port for the steppir controller though .. de w1rt/john On 6/21/06, J F [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Another silly question: Just how many devices can I daisy chain from the K2 Serial Port? Currently, I just use the KAT100 and my computers, but soon I will need to connect the KRC2 and the controller for a SteppIr. Will I need to do anything special or ??? Cheers, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Keith's Field Day
Good luck on FD, Keith. Hope you don't contact too many silent keys. The Element should do well for you. I've not yet used my Element for field ops. Have fun! John AB8WH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Serial Port
Julius, The K2 does not have a Serial Port - it has an AUX I/O connector. Not to belabor the point, but there is a BIG difference (see prior posts). The real answer depends on the signal lines that are connected and the cable distance between them. No one answer applies to all, it is signal specific. The AUXBUS signal line is the most critical for both drive levels and timing. It is known that the K2 can work with the full Elecraft transceiver stack and the KRC2 (the KRC2 can connect directly to the computer serial port with proper internal jumpering), but I am not familiar with the specs for the SteppIR interface, and that is not controlled by Elecraft, so you would have to pose that question to the folks at SteppIR. The TXD, RXD and Signal Ground signals are serial communications lines and are not daisy-chained, like com ports on a computer, these signals are intended for point to point connection only (the signaling protocol gets confused about which device is responding). 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Another silly question: Just how many devices can I daisy chain from the K2 Serial Port? Currently, I just use the KAT100 and my computers, but soon I will need to connect the KRC2 and the controller for a SteppIr. Will I need to do anything special or ??? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] re: My Elecraft Field Day Plans
. The cemetery is on the top of a hill and has a good clear view in all directions. Trees are tall, widely spaced and, unlike the local forest, have no extra vegetation between them. Residents are quite and tolerant. LOL, guess by tolerant you are saying they (no longer) bitch about TVI !!! W5YA and K2 # 700 will be doing its seventh field day from an altitude of 9,000 feet in the mountains of New Mexico. Undergrowth has been cleared away over these years making deployment of reversing Moxon arrays on 15, 20, and 40 much easier. Fly fishing for trout is excellent after the antennas are up. Hope everyone has a great time. See you on there! 73 Fred Steve KT5X WD9FJL Hints and Kinks... Ever use a bow to put up antennas? Suggestion: tape a whole screw driver to the end of the arrow to bring it down after it crosses the tree. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [QRP-L] Wayne...Eric...K2 with USB anytime soon??
Dittos, Phil. It's way past time ALL ham gear manufacturers started to realize that serial, and even parallel, ports are a thing of the past. The more we let them know it, the sooner it will change. After 20% of the industry makes the switch the rest will be forced to follow or loose their market share. 72 - JC, K0HPS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Phil Townsend Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 7:12 AM To: n0tu/Steve; qrp-l; ElecraftLIST Subject: [QRP-L] Wayne...Eric...K2 with USB anytime soon?? Seems to me most computers today are USB as a standard... I've put up with that stupid RS232 (standard???) for many more years than I care to think. __ QRP-L mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] __ QRP-L mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Elecraft] OT: Stupid question about excess ladder line.
I just picked up a dipole fed with ladder line. Plan to use it for FD. The antenna has 100 feet of parallel feed (window ladder line) and there is no way I'll need that much. I don't want to cut the feed line because next time I use the temporary antenna I may need more. So what do I do with the excess? If it was coax, I'd just pile it up on the ground. Maybe I should park the Element further away so I can stretch the feed line out straight from the rig to the antenna. I could maybe use tomb stones to hold the feed line off the ground ... :-) - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Keith's Field Day
Kieth, Interesting battery carrier you have there... hm See ya on the air -- __ ___/ Chuck \_ | | | www.aa8vs.org/aa8vs | The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the cynic wonders who farted; the realist adjusts the sails. -- Appoligies to William Arthur Ward -- Original message -- From: John Wiener [EMAIL PROTECTED] Good luck on FD, Keith. Hope you don't contact too many silent keys. The Element should do well for you. I've not yet used my Element for field ops. Have fun! John AB8WH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Stupid question about excess ladder line.
I would cut it to the length needed and save the left over piece. Ladder line is very easy to splice back together. 73/72 - Mike WA8BXN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Batteries QRP updated
The battery comparisons page has been updated with more variety in types of batteries: http://www.ae5x.com/batts.htm John Harper AE5X Portable QRP: http://www.ae5x.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] OT: Stupid question about excess ladder line.
Keith KD1E asked: I just picked up a dipole fed with ladder line. Plan to use it for FD. The antenna has 100 feet of parallel feed (window ladder line) and there is no way I'll need that much. I don't want to cut the feed line because next time I use the temporary antenna I may need more. So what do I do with the excess? If it was coax, I'd just pile it up on the ground. Maybe I should park the Element further away so I can stretch the feed line out straight from the rig to the antenna. I could maybe use tomb stones to hold the feed line off the ground ... :-) -- That sounds like a doublet or center fed antenna intended for use with a tuner for multi-band operation. (It's a dipole only on the frequency where it's 1/2 wavelength long.) A good rule of thumb is to *never* use more feedline of any type than you need for the job. In some cases (as in when the feedline is low-loss and well matched) it doesn't make a huge difference whether you have 50 feet or 200 feet of line, so smart operators don't chop coax up, especially for temporarily installations. However, open wire line or window line is unaffected by neatly-done and soldered splices. There's really no reason not to cut that stuff to length, then simply splice the rest back on later if needed. The one situation where you might want to use (or splice back on) a little more feeder than is needed to reach the rig is if your antenna tuner won't handle the impedance it presents on some frequencies. In that case, don't bunch up the extra feed line. Run it wherever there's room so there's 2 or 3 times the width of the feeder from other objects. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Keith's Field Day
My wife's Honda Element doesn't have the roof rack. However there are small panels, just a couple inches on a side, in the roof area, that cover the places where the rack would attach. When you remove these covers you will find captive nuts (8 mm ?) that are to be used to hold the roof rack. :-) I made a mount out of aluminum angle that will hold a ham stick. You're on your own to figure out your mount. Since there are four (6?) of these you could build a STRONG base that would hold a tall support for a dipole that you only use at rest. When you're finished, remove your mount and snap in the plastic covers and no one is the wiser! 73, Kurt ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Q: Building the K2
Don W3FPR wrote: Yes there is one 'tool' that is assumed for the alignment steps, and that is a dummy load. Every hamshack should have one. If you don't have one already, I suggest the Elecraft DL1. - Also very useful when the rig is up and running. I'm not certain about the K2's antenna tuner, but the KAT100 has two antenna coax connectors and I keep a dummy load connected at all times to the 'Antenna 2' connector. By switching to ANT 2 the K2/100 can be checked quickly at full power without causing annoying QRM, although leakage across the KAT100's relay does allow a milliwatt or so to get to the antenna feeder connected to the 'Antenna 1' connector. 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Stupid question about excess ladder line.
Keith: If it is physically practical at your site, the best thing to do is to have the long feed line meander (suspended in the air) along the path from the antenna to the rig. Laying it on the ground is not a good idea. 73, Steve AA4AK At 09:53 AM 6/21/2006, Darwin, Keith wrote: I just picked up a dipole fed with ladder line. Plan to use it for FD. The antenna has 100 feet of parallel feed (window ladder line) and there is no way I'll need that much. I don't want to cut the feed line because next time I use the temporary antenna I may need more. So what do I do with the excess? If it was coax, I'd just pile it up on the ground. Maybe I should park the Element further away so I can stretch the feed line out straight from the rig to the antenna. I could maybe use tomb stones to hold the feed line off the ground ... :-) - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS /Trade : IFR 1500 Service Monitor
FS / Trade : IFR 1500 Service Monitor I have an IFR 1500 Service Monitor for sale. The unit is operational in all respects - BUT does not have a current calibration certificate. In addition, the internal batteries no longer hold a charge. The 1500 incorporates 22 separate instruments including: - .4Mhz-1000Mhz signal generator with calibrated attenuator full duplex, - 2uv test receiver (AM/WFM/NFM/SSB), - Spectrum analyzer (2db/div 10db/div) with track generator, - 1MHz oscilloscope / Deviation monitor , Deviation meter - Peak Average reading watt meter - dual tone generators, cable fault finder, DCS encode/decode, I'm asking $3300 plus shipping from zip 22182 I am also looking for either an FT100D or FT857D with the ATAS120 antenna for HF/VHF mobile, so a mixed cash+trade would also be of interest. Niel WA7SSA/4 A couple samples from the web: http://www.rfimage.com/1500.html http://www.atecorp.com/Equipment/IFR/FMAM1500.htm ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] What's wrong with Serial
The current evolution of the RS-232 spec also now contains a pinout for an RJ-45 8-pin modular connector. This connector is becoming very popular in the telecom industry for serial port connections because of its size. RJ-45s allow much high panel density that DE9 connectors, even though they have the problem of being the same as those used for ethernet connections. On Jun 20, 2006, at 9:18 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Mike W8UR wrote: RS-232 has always specified a cable pinout; originally on an unspecified 25 pin connector. --- Okay, you made me go look. When I first encountered the RS-232 interface, IBM had not yet built the first PC. Bob, W7AVK kindly forwarded to me a URL containing the info: http://www.interfacebus.com/Design_Connector_RS232.html#b Or http://tinyurl.com/zgnvp So the specification does contain a connector pinout for DB-9 and DB-25 connectors. That makes it all the more important to heed Don Wilhelm's observation: all DB-9's or DB-25 connectors do not carry RS-232 signals as described in the specification. One might assume a DB-9 or DB-25 does carry RS-232 signals with some assurance if it says RS-232 next to the connector, but not when it says AUX I/O or anything else next to it. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com - Jack Brindle, W6FB - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: What's wrong with Serial
Mini-Dins are simply not reliable. The connectors break all-too easily, mostly due to the pins bending if the connectors are not aligned just right. We intentionally moved away from them at Apple because of this problem. There really isn't a good connector solution at present. If you look at what is available in a semi-rugged form factor, we are limited to D-shells, DINs (not mini-Dins), RJs, and not much else. The RJs are not shielded, so we end up duplicating connectors out of necessity. I think Wayne made a good choice with the connector, and it is up to us to realize that it is not standard RS-232 and just deal with it. Of course, few, if any, other ham rigs have standard RS-232 connectors on their rear apron... On Jun 20, 2006, at 8:32 PM, Bill Coleman wrote: On Jun 20, 2006, at 1:03 AM, wayne burdick wrote: Correct. Then the principle designer, N6KR, wrote: We didn't have room for two connectors. Surely two Mini-DIN 6s or 8s would have fit. Of course, few people would have cables to fit a Mini-DIN 8 unless they had some unused Mac serial cables, or they might try to plug a mouse into a Mini- DIN 6 Pre-fab cables work well with Mini-DINs. Trying to make cables for these connectors is a nightmare. Worse than the 8-pin mic connectors transceivers use these days Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly! -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 - Jack Brindle, W6FB - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Stupid question about excess ladder line.
In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes I just picked up a dipole fed with ladder line. Plan to use it for FD. The antenna has 100 feet of parallel feed (window ladder line) and there is no way I'll need that much. I don't want to cut the feed line because next time I use the temporary antenna I may need more. So what do I do with the excess? If it was coax, I'd just pile it up on the ground. Maybe I should park the Element further away so I can stretch the feed line out straight from the rig to the antenna. I could maybe use tomb stones to hold the feed line off the ground ... :-) Hi Keith, I would go ahead and cut to length then, if you need to reconnect, either solder or possibly use a chocolate block connector strip. (Not sure if thats the name used in the USA) Dependent upon the size of connector block, unscrew and discard any intermediate unused screws. This method will allow you to connect and reconnect 'in the field' just with the aid of a screwdriver. Hope this makes sense :-) Trev G3ZYY -- Trevor Day UKSMG #217 www.uksmg.org ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: What's wrong with Serial
IMHO the D connector is the best choice for reliability, short of the Bendix circular type used on aircraft equipment, etc. (much too large and expensive). The worst connector I have seen on ham gear was the one used for the microphone on the Yaesu FT-730. I tried to repair a mike cable with a broken wire but applying a (small) soldering iron to one of the pins caused the insulator to soften and the pins moved. The radio has been in my junk box ever since. Bob, N7XY On Jun 21, 2006, at 9:49 AM, Jack Brindle wrote: Mini-Dins are simply not reliable. The connectors break all-too easily, mostly due to the pins bending if the connectors are not aligned just right. We intentionally moved away from them at Apple because of this problem. There really isn't a good connector solution at present. If you look at what is available in a semi-rugged form factor, we are limited to D-shells, DINs (not mini-Dins), RJs, and not much else. The RJs are not shielded, so we end up duplicating connectors out of necessity. I think Wayne made a good choice with the connector, and it is up to us to realize that it is not standard RS-232 and just deal with it. Of course, few, if any, other ham rigs have standard RS-232 connectors on their rear apron... On Jun 20, 2006, at 8:32 PM, Bill Coleman wrote: On Jun 20, 2006, at 1:03 AM, wayne burdick wrote: Correct. Then the principle designer, N6KR, wrote: We didn't have room for two connectors. Surely two Mini-DIN 6s or 8s would have fit. Of course, few people would have cables to fit a Mini-DIN 8 unless they had some unused Mac serial cables, or they might try to plug a mouse into a Mini- DIN 6 Pre-fab cables work well with Mini-DINs. Trying to make cables for these connectors is a nightmare. Worse than the 8-pin mic connectors transceivers use these days Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly! -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 - Jack Brindle, W6FB -- --- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: Re: [Elecraft] What's wrong with Serial
The latest copy of the spec I had was EIA-232-F. It did not specify the 8 pin modular connector. EIA-561 covers the 8 position modular plug when using it in an EIA-232 compatible system. RJ-45 (Registered Jack) is defined in FCC part 68 and is a whole other ball of wax! Dave AA3EE From: Jack Brindle [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Wed Jun 21 11:43:38 CDT 2006 To: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] What's wrong with Serial The current evolution of the RS-232 spec also now contains a pinout for an RJ-45 8-pin modular connector. This connector is becoming very popular in the telecom industry for serial port connections because of its size. RJ-45s allow much high panel density that DE9 connectors, even though they have the problem of being the same as those used for ethernet connections. On Jun 20, 2006, at 9:18 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Mike W8UR wrote: RS-232 has always specified a cable pinout; originally on an unspecified 25 pin connector. --- Okay, you made me go look. When I first encountered the RS-232 interface, IBM had not yet built the first PC. Bob, W7AVK kindly forwarded to me a URL containing the info: http://www.interfacebus.com/Design_Connector_RS232.html#b Or http://tinyurl.com/zgnvp So the specification does contain a connector pinout for DB-9 and DB-25 connectors. That makes it all the more important to heed Don Wilhelm's observation: all DB-9's or DB-25 connectors do not carry RS-232 signals as described in the specification. One might assume a DB-9 or DB-25 does carry RS-232 signals with some assurance if it says RS-232 next to the connector, but not when it says AUX I/O or anything else next to it. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com - Jack Brindle, W6FB - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: What's wrong with Serial
On Monday 19 June 2006 22:53, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: As far as I know, there is NO such thing as a RS232 cable. My several Amigas have a 25 pin 'serial' port. There is also +/- 9v AC on a couple of pins to power external equipment. It's welcome: I designed my own midi interface using +9 AC to power it. An important point about RS-232, COM ports, /dev/cuad0, /dev/ttyS0 .. whatever, is that the serial data timing can be very accurately known: the time taken for a micro to load to the data registers and send the data can be used in real time control. At 115200 bits per second, a byte takes less than 100 microseconds to propagate. Midi is such a real time control and it uses the very modest speed, by today's standard, 31250 bps. USB can't guarantee such timing accuracy for control purposes - witness the mess with USB midi equipment that had 80 milliseconds delay before hearing a sound - fine if a printer doesn't start in that time but completely useless for real time music multitracking. A klutz was required, such as Steinberg's ASIO. Even so, USB still can't compete with a 23 year old standard at 31250 bps for real time midi. There is no USB on my Kurzweil PC2R. Present are midi in, out and thru, analog and 24 bit digital sound out: it's professional equipment. There's nothing wrong with Serial except that most consumers don't need it, and unfortunately, those who could use it are finding it scarce on modern equipment due to market forces. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962 -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Q: Building the K2
Hi Jean-Francois, Congratulations on your upcoming passing of the CW exam. Also, I think you've made a great choice in going with the K2, its a great rig. I don't think that you need too many tools out of the ordinary to build the K2, but it is certainly is a great opportunity (or excuse) to buy a bunch of neat stuff. Among the tools I bought, using the K2 as a reason (or excuse) were: a Panvise with the Printed Circuit board holder attachment a de-solder iron (got lots of use from that) a magnifier/flourescent lamp a temperature controlled soldering station (with lots of different tips) Silver bearing solder (before they said not to use it) Kesters multi-core solder (after they said not to use the silver stuff) a solder pot and a bar of solder (which I used before placing my order with toroid guy!) Of course after you finish the basic K2, they temp you with all sorts of things you just have to have, like dsp filter, ssb, et al. All in all building the K2 was a lot of fun and a very satisfying experience. Have a lot of fun building it and don't forget to post your questions here, these guys have seen it all and they are a great help. 73 de Tom WB2QDG -- Original message -- From: Jean-Francois Joly [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi all, I will be passing my morse code exam soon and I was looking for the best radio to start with for CW. Up to now I'm pretty sure I will go with the K2. I just wanted to know if any special tools are required to complete the kit? I'm aware of what they say in the advertisement... But still, once I bought an OHR100 kit, claiming that no special tools were required, but at the end of the alignement stage, they *assumed* you already had another transceiver as your main rig to tune the OHR. Is this the case with the K2? Thanks, Jean-Francois VA2JFJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Q: Building the K2
Hi Geoff, Yes the basic K2 with the ATU also has 2 antenna jacks. I also put a dummy load on 'Ant 2', I can't tell you how many times I tried to auto tune into an empty 'Ant 2', before I finally caught on. Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 Also very useful when the rig is up and running. I'm not certain about the K2's antenna tuner, but the KAT100 has two antenna coax connectors and I keep a dummy load connected at all times to the 'Antenna 2' connector. By switching to ANT 2 the K2/100 can be checked quickly at full power without causing annoying QRM, although leakage across the KAT100's relay does allow a milliwatt or so to get to the antenna feeder connected to the 'Antenna 1' connector. 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Q: Building the K2
Jean-Francois, Of course, you don't need most of these neat things - I have a Panvise (an old one) and found it not very useful because it wouldn't hold the board once the components very close to the edge were put in. For de-soldering, I've been using de-soldering wick, which looks like a roll of very fine copper braid and sucks up an amazing amount of solder... best of all, a roll costs only a dollar or two from your local RadioShack or equivalent. A temperature controlled iron is a must, but you really need only one tip - I bought several, in several different sizes and temperatures, and after building the K2 and most of the options that would fit into it (plus some other add-ons), I'm still using the first soldering tip I started with. One tool that hasn't been mentioned but is cheap and very useful is a surgical hemostat - this looks like a cross between a small scissor and a locking pliers, and it serves as a small needle nose pliers that also locks. RadioShack and other electronics suppliers are now selling these for a few dollars for building electronic stuff. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 3:18 PM To: Jean-Francois Joly; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Q: Building the K2 Hi Jean-Francois, Congratulations on your upcoming passing of the CW exam. Also, I think you've made a great choice in going with the K2, its a great rig. I don't think that you need too many tools out of the ordinary to build the K2, but it is certainly is a great opportunity (or excuse) to buy a bunch of neat stuff. Among the tools I bought, using the K2 as a reason (or excuse) were: a Panvise with the Printed Circuit board holder attachment a de-solder iron (got lots of use from that) a magnifier/flourescent lamp a temperature controlled soldering station (with lots of different tips) Silver bearing solder (before they said not to use it) Kesters multi-core solder (after they said not to use the silver stuff) a solder pot and a bar of solder (which I used before placing my order with toroid guy!) Of course after you finish the basic K2, they temp you with all sorts of things you just have to have, like dsp filter, ssb, et al. All in all building the K2 was a lot of fun and a very satisfying experience. Have a lot of fun building it and don't forget to post your questions here, these guys have seen it all and they are a great help. 73 de Tom WB2QDG -- Original message -- From: Jean-Francois Joly [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi all, I will be passing my morse code exam soon and I was looking for the best radio to start with for CW. Up to now I'm pretty sure I will go with the K2. I just wanted to know if any special tools are required to complete the kit? I'm aware of what they say in the advertisement... But still, once I bought an OHR100 kit, claiming that no special tools were required, but at the end of the alignement stage, they *assumed* you already had another transceiver as your main rig to tune the OHR. Is this the case with the K2? Thanks, Jean-Francois VA2JFJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Q: Building the K2
Tom WB2QDG wrote: Yes the basic K2 with the ATU also has 2 antenna jacks. I also put a dummy load on 'Ant 2', I can't tell you how many times I tried to auto tune into an empty 'Ant 2', before I finally caught on. --- Hi Tom, I did not want to make that confession :) 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Q: Building the K2
Thank you all for your responses... You people are much helpful. Jean-Francois VA2JFJ On 6/21/06, Solosko, Robert B (Bob) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jean-Francois, Of course, you don't need most of these neat things - I have a Panvise (an old one) and found it not very useful because it wouldn't hold the board once the components very close to the edge were put in. For de-soldering, I've been using de-soldering wick, which looks like a roll of very fine copper braid and sucks up an amazing amount of solder... best of all, a roll costs only a dollar or two from your local RadioShack or equivalent. A temperature controlled iron is a must, but you really need only one tip - I bought several, in several different sizes and temperatures, and after building the K2 and most of the options that would fit into it (plus some other add-ons), I'm still using the first soldering tip I started with. One tool that hasn't been mentioned but is cheap and very useful is a surgical hemostat - this looks like a cross between a small scissor and a locking pliers, and it serves as a small needle nose pliers that also locks. RadioShack and other electronics suppliers are now selling these for a few dollars for building electronic stuff. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 3:18 PM To: Jean-Francois Joly; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Q: Building the K2 Hi Jean-Francois, Congratulations on your upcoming passing of the CW exam. Also, I think you've made a great choice in going with the K2, its a great rig. I don't think that you need too many tools out of the ordinary to build the K2, but it is certainly is a great opportunity (or excuse) to buy a bunch of neat stuff. Among the tools I bought, using the K2 as a reason (or excuse) were: a Panvise with the Printed Circuit board holder attachment a de-solder iron (got lots of use from that) a magnifier/flourescent lamp a temperature controlled soldering station (with lots of different tips) Silver bearing solder (before they said not to use it) Kesters multi-core solder (after they said not to use the silver stuff) a solder pot and a bar of solder (which I used before placing my order with toroid guy!) Of course after you finish the basic K2, they temp you with all sorts of things you just have to have, like dsp filter, ssb, et al. All in all building the K2 was a lot of fun and a very satisfying experience. Have a lot of fun building it and don't forget to post your questions here, these guys have seen it all and they are a great help. 73 de Tom WB2QDG -- Original message -- From: Jean-Francois Joly [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi all, I will be passing my morse code exam soon and I was looking for the best radio to start with for CW. Up to now I'm pretty sure I will go with the K2. I just wanted to know if any special tools are required to complete the kit? I'm aware of what they say in the advertisement... But still, once I bought an OHR100 kit, claiming that no special tools were required, but at the end of the alignement stage, they *assumed* you already had another transceiver as your main rig to tune the OHR. Is this the case with the K2? Thanks, Jean-Francois VA2JFJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: Re: [Elecraft] What's wrong with Serial - my continuing RANT
Folks, This revalation about the RJ-45 jack being used and defined for use as an RS-232 connector amplifies my point. It is not reasonable to expect that every RJ-45 jack is an RS-232 connector. We know that they are used for Ethernet connectors, Yaesu uses them for microphone connectors, they are ofter used in telephone systems, etc. - so just by looking at the jack, it is not possible to identify its use and pinout. Similarly, the DE9 connector on a piece of equipment does not provide any assurance that it is a serial port, let alone one conforming to the RS-232 standard. Again, the K2 DE-9 connector is clearly labeled AUX I/O. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- The latest copy of the spec I had was EIA-232-F. It did not specify the 8 pin modular connector. EIA-561 covers the 8 position modular plug when using it in an EIA-232 compatible system. RJ-45 (Registered Jack) is defined in FCC part 68 and is a whole other ball of wax! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Q: Building the K2
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Geoff, Yes the basic K2 with the ATU also has 2 antenna jacks. I also put a dummy load on 'Ant 2', I can't tell you how many times I tried to auto tune into an empty 'Ant 2', before I finally caught on. I have the dummy load in ANT1 of my KPA100, and the real ant in ANT2. I have this crazy idea that ANT1 is selected when powered down, so I have just a teeny tiny bit more lightning protection with the real ant disconnected, even if it's only a fraction of a mm gap in a relay. -- Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209. use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm a forgotten man in his (Bobby Robson's) mind. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] What's wrong with Serial - my continuing RANT
...ofter used in telephone systems, etc. - so just by looking at the jack, it is not possible to identify its use and pinout. Bingo. While I'm learning a lot about the difficulty of USB from this thread, it's surprising how many technically savvy people here remind me of my non-technical wife, who I recently caught sticking a random AC power supply into a random cordless phone and assuming it would work because it fits. (To my frustration, it did. What are you so bent out of shape about? she asked.) DE9's have been used for so many things that it's not reasonable to assume (a) that you know what the connector is for or (b) that you know how the cable you're about to use is wired. I agree that it would be nice if the K2 was a USB device that I could plug into my computer and have it instantly understand, but I can do that with a $30 cable so that problem is already solved IMHO. Craig NZ0R K1 #1966 K2/100 #4941 KX1 #1499 (passed stage II testing) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] DB9/DE9 connector
One last point about our selection of a 9-pin D connector for this function. Among available connectors, this type is both very familiar and easy to work with. The mating connector has easily-accessed solder cups for wire attachment; the pin numbers are labeled; backshells work well, and allow various cable diameter egress; and they're reliable. On top of that you can buy them anywhere. A mating connector that was hard to work with would be a poor choice, especially for a kit transceiver. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DB9/DE9 connector, Whats wrong w/ Serial [END of Threads]
We've beat these topics to death. :-) Time to end the threads for now. 73, Eric WA6HHQ Elecraft List Moderator ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 or KX1?
Hello all, Have been thinking about getting my feet wet with building either a K1 or KX1. I see most posts seem to refer to the KX1. Aside from size and portability is there any difference in performance in the two? I can work with either one but would prefer the one with best performance. K2 next- can't find much that beats it. Tnx, Jim/k2hn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Serial Port - DB-9 vs. RJ-45
Four problems with using an RJ-45 for the port on the K2: - Only 8 wires - Not shielded - Could be mistaken for something else just as easily as a DB-9 And now the big one: Crimping an RJ-45 plug requires a special tool (mine only cost $30), and the plugs are one-shot items. DB-9 is no harder to solder than a PC board, no special tool, and you can reuse them. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1?
The true correct answer is - both. I have both and find each has it's place. 73 John WA8KNE Jim Murray wrote: Hello all, Have been thinking about getting my feet wet with building either a K1 or KX1. I see most posts seem to refer to the KX1. Aside from size and portability is there any difference in performance in the two? I can work with either one but would prefer the one with best performance. K2 next- can't find much that beats it. Tnx, Jim/k2hn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1?
I built the K1 first...used it a couple years, sold it, bought a already built KX1. Both are fantastic rigs. I miss my K1 and the 5w output though. I think this fall I will buy another K1 and build it. I will keep the KX1 for a long time, it fits in my shirt pocket...best camping rig I have ever had. 73 - Original Message - From: Jim Murray [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 7:29 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1? Hello all, Have been thinking about getting my feet wet with building either a K1 or KX1. I see most posts seem to refer to the KX1. Aside from size and portability is there any difference in performance in the two? I can work with either one but would prefer the one with best performance. K2 next- can't find much that beats it. Tnx, Jim/k2hn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Q: Building the K2
Nick Waterman wrote: I have the dummy load in ANT1 of my KPA100, and the real ant in ANT2. I have this crazy idea that ANT1 is selected when powered down, so I have just a teeny tiny bit more lightning protection with the real ant disconnected, even if it's only a fraction of a mm gap in a relay. Sorry Nick, Teeny and lightning in the same sentence is oxymoronic. For small static charges, maybe, if there's a bleed path (I think Elecraft rigs have one). For direct hits (or near direct hits, or hits on your power or tel lines some distance away followed by flames), call the fire department, assuming the phone still works. Make sure your rig is grounded from the chassis to the real Earth, as our UK/VK colleagues call it, which is a much better way of looking at it actually. Our use of the word ground calls up a steel tent stake in the dirt. Earth is often not what you stand on, it may be unreachable electrically. Lightning strikes are really RF ... DC to light (OK ... we all know that, we've seen them, they're scary). A good DC ground, like the one the power company uses and might be required by your building codes, may be an open circuit for RF. Disconnect your K2. Disconnect all your gear. Unplug it from the surge protectors in a thunderstorm. Consider the size of the surge protector compared to the distance between the cloud and the powerline that takes the hit. If the static voltage was enough to make it from a cloud to anywhere near your antenna, the liklihood that the relay contacts are going to stop it approach zero ... really fast. Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw Nick Waterman wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Geoff, Yes the basic K2 with the ATU also has 2 antenna jacks. I also put a dummy load on 'Ant 2', I can't tell you how many times I tried to auto tune into an empty 'Ant 2', before I finally caught on. I have the dummy load in ANT1 of my KPA100, and the real ant in ANT2. I have this crazy idea that ANT1 is selected when powered down, so I have just a teeny tiny bit more lightning protection with the real ant disconnected, even if it's only a fraction of a mm gap in a relay. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1?
Just my opinion, not looking for an argument (when I asked this question, it was the many opinions that helped me decide mrore than the arguments over who is more right): I chose just the KX1 because I wanted an easily portable transciever. While the K1 is that too, I liked the more all-in-one-ness of the KX1. I also plan on doing more experimenting in future, which many convinced me would be more suited to the K2 because of more space available in the case and on the boards. But I still liked size and the simplicity of the K1. It was then when I started looking at the K1 and what I wanted it to do, and how much it would cost me to get to where I want with it. The K1 is almost 62% the price of the K2, and the K2 is (according to most who actually own both) so much better of a rig. fully kitted KX1: $502 fully kitted K1 (w/ extra 2-band module): $611 fully kitted QRP/CW K2: $982 I plan on getting a K2 in the future, so why would I want a K1 as well (though many do and will). And now, with the addition of 80m on the KX1, I am sold on it alone. There are many other reasons to like the KX1 more for me as well (DDS and wider VFO range, SW BC RX coverage. Of course, if I ever do get into mobile (car) QRP CW, I will look to the K1 to fill that role. It seems to me that it would suit it so well. David, K3TUE . --- Jim Murray [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello all, Have been thinking about getting my feet wet with building either a K1 or KX1. I see most posts seem to refer to the KX1. Aside from size and portability is there any difference in performance in the two? I can work with either one but would prefer the one with best performance. K2 next- can't find much that beats it. Tnx, Jim/k2hn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1?
simple answer: K1 It goes everywhere, tunes to my portable antenna or wire, I always make contacts with it, built-in batts and auto tuner, everybody I know who owns one sez it's their favorite radio, And, the number one reason: I have fun with it! (The auto tuner on KX1 is not as robust as the K1 tuner) Ron, wb1hga Jim Murray wrote: Aside from size and portability is there any difference in performance in the two? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1?
Jim, K2HN, asked: Have been thinking about getting my feet wet with building either a K1 or KX1. I see most posts seem to refer to the KX1. Aside from size and portability is there any difference in performance in the two? I can work with either one but would prefer the one with best performance. K2 next- can't find much that beats it. --- The KX1 is the X-treme portable rig. The whole station, key and antenna fits in my jacket pocket. It gives up a few things for that. One is output power. On internal batteries it is limited to 1.5 to 2 watts. So what's that? -- about 1/2 or 3/4 S unit below a full QRP Gallon: 5 watts. Shoot, I worked the world for years with my 2-watt HW-8, but it's still significantly less than 5 watts. But, if you have room for an external battery or power supply it'll come within a gnat's whisker of that QRP gallon. I don't have a K1 so I won't comment on a direct comparison. The KX1 does permit SWL-ing in the more popular SW broadcast ranges. Its internal ATU is more limited in matching range than the other Elecraft tuners because of the miniscule space it must fit into. That limits the number of inductors and caps that can be used to produce a match. If you have a pretty normal-sized operating desk and never operate portable, you'll like the K1 (or K2!!) much better except for the extended frequency coverage provided by the KX1. If you like portable ops, must travel frequently, or live in a small R.V., you'll probably appreciate the KX1. As for sheer performance in terms of receiver sensitivity, selectivity, and dynamic range, the K2 beats 'em all. Each Elecraft rig fits a niche. And many of us have more than one niche we want a rig to fit into, so we end up with more than one G If you can tolerate a portable rig the size of fat hard-cover novel and want the greatest flexibility, I recommend the K2. With a 2-minute cover swap you can go from a QRO rig to a self-contained QRP portable station with built in wide(r) range ATU that only needs an external key (and the KXPD1 paddles can be used with the K2 using the special bracket Elecraft just announced that clamps to the K2 bail) and an antenna. Back home, you drop on a different cover and have a 100-watt 160-meter through 10 meter CW/Data/SSB station that leads the state of the art in Amateur gear. And people adverse to swapping covers have come up with a way to avoid that and just plug the K2 into the home station with the KPA100 and KAT100 amp and tuner in an Elecraft box that sits alongside the K2. It's all documented on the Elecraft web site. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: lightning
On Wednesday 21 June 2006 19:50, Fred Jensen wrote: Disconnect your K2. Disconnect all your gear. Unplug it from the surge protectors in a thunderstorm. Fred, I agree on the first two, but not the third. If I see thunderstorms predicted, or I predict a local one myself, I will disconnect all my equipment. During a thunderstorm, which your third statement suggests, I will never do. I'd rather my radios fry than me. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962 -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] What's wrong with Serial
At 12:43 PM 6/21/2006, Jack Brindle wrote... The current evolution of the RS-232 spec also now contains a pinout for an RJ-45 8-pin modular connector. ... RJ-45s allow much high panel density that DE9 connectors, even though they have the problem of being the same as those used for ethernet connections. The current RS-232 spec, TIA-232-F-1977, only specifies the traditional DB-25 and an alternate 26 pin connector. The ANSI-TIA-EIA-723-1998 specification, which is more applicable to modern serial ports (RS-232-F only goes to 20 Kbps, 723 goes to 512 Kbps), adds the DE-9 connector. Use of the 8 pin modular (RJ45 should not be hyphenated and refers to more than just the connector) is not defined in either spec. It is covered in EIA-561. To the original concern, Elecraft chose a commonly available, easily used, reliable connector. It's not labelled RS-232 or anything which would (should) lead someone to believe it's directly compatible. It's well documented. No problem. BTW, an RJ45 doesn't actually exist, there are RJ45S and RJ45M telco interfaces. RJ45 is an informal term incorrectly used to refer to 8 pin modular connectors. All of this may seem a bit pedantic to those used to informal use of these designations, but in the standards world, correctness counts. It is through ignorance of the subtleties that incompatibility problems arise. Informal terms are fine, as long as everyone agrees. The problem quickly arises however, that not everyone does agree and being informal there is no authoritative reference to settle disputes. (from someone who's employer is a member/subscriber to most, if not all, communications/electronics standards organizations, and runs into this stuff regularly in real life situations) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1?
KX1 has a synthesizer that does not drift, K1 has free running VFO. Its really a toss up as to which rig overall is better. 73/72 - Mike WA8BXN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Replacing J3 on a KPA100
I was wondering if any of you have replaced J3 (the Anderson Power Pole Connectors) on a KPA100. The hot side (red) was slightly deformed when I did not have a good connection and the connector heated up.. The black APP is OK. Looking at the the instructions, it would mean taking the board off the heatsink...something I am reluctant to do. I was thinking about just cutting the two leads...and replacing the connectors...soldering the connectors to the cut leads above the circuit board. What's the guru's thoughts? Lee Buller - K0WA In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some and use it. If you can't find any common sense, ask for help from somebody who has some common sense. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1?
I have a K1 (bought someone else's) and a KX1 (built it, added KXB3080 this spring). I won't part with either, they do different stuff. The K1 is my all-time favorite radio, ever. Before I had Elecraft rigs, I had a Wilderness Sierra that I built -- that was my favorite before my K1. The K1 reminds me a little of the Sierra, but is a much more civilized rig. I just built an HF Packer amp, and the K1+amp combination is awesome. It's a tough choice, but I really don't think you can go wrong. 73, Mike N2HTT K1 s/n 566 KX1 s/n 98 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1?
Jim wrote: Have been thinking about getting my feet wet with building either a K1 or KX1. ... I can work with either one but would prefer the one with best performance. As far as RF performance only goes, the K1 is clearly superior. (1) The K1 uses an LC VFO that is cleaner than the direct digital synthesis frequency generation scheme of the KX1. This reduces transmitter spurious output, and improves receiver performance because fewer spur frequencies are part of the local oscillator signal fed to the front-end mixer. In fact, according to reported measurements, the K1 has better transmitter spurious output specs than even the K2. (2) The K1 can be placed on any of the HF bands, though Elecraft currently sells parts for 80m through 15m only. The KX1 DDS chip is clocked at its maximum rate of 50 MHz, which limits KX1 frequency coverage to around 20m and lower. The 15m band is one of the best QRP bands when open. (3) The K1 IF uses a four-pole crystal filter, while the KX1 IF uses only three. (4) The K1's optional auto antenna tuner tunes a wider range of impedances than that of the KX1. (5) Most find the continuous LC VFO tuning of the K1 to be more natural than the step-wise tuning of the DDS in the KX1. (6) The K1 has a noise blanker option, while the KX1 does not. (7) The K1 transmitter can produce up to seven watts of output power. The KX1 is about half that. (8) The K1 case contains a speaker, the KX1 does not. (The K1 has plenty of audio to drive it too.) (9) Personal preference...I like the front mounted controls of the K1 more than the top mounted controls of the KX1. OTOH, the KX1 is clearly superior in terms of VFO stability...a DDS is about as stable as a crystal oscillator. It is superior in its span of frequency coverage within the limits of the DDS. It can switch between USB and LSB due to the frequency agility of the DDS as the local oscillator. It has neat features like audio feedback to controls. It is definitely smaller and lighter. IMHO, the KX1 has many positive features that the K1 doesn't have, but none of them except VFO stability actually are improvements over K1 RF performance in the ham CW bands. In overall RF performance, the K1 has the clear lead. But...if the K1 were not available, the KX1 would be my very next choice for a QRP rig. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT1 disappointment
Just completed my KAT1 for my K1 that I finished last night. All the tests seem to work properly, and I get a r1.0 (SWR of 1.0) on all 4 bands (7, 10, 14, 21 MHz) when transmitting into a dummy load. However, when transmitting into my attic dipole the KAT1 can only achieve a match on 14 and 21 MHz (1.3 and 1.2 respectively). On 7 MHz I get r4.1 as best match, and on 10 MHz I get r3.2, both after much rattling of relays. My K2 (which I realize has a greater matching range) has no trouble with the same antenna setup. The rigs are connected with about 2 ft. of RG58 to a 4:1 LDG balun, then to maybe 30-40 ft. of 450 ohm ladder line out into the attic where I have a 40m. 1/4 wave dipole with the center at the peak of the roof and the ends drooped down in random ways to fit the available space. When I adjusted C9, by the way, I got a null of about 0.06 mv. As I said, I've been through all the tests on the KAT1, including trying each L and C individually to make sure they are all working, and everything looks good. So I'm guessing I have to do something to the antenna to get make things work. Perhaps play with the length of ladder line? Any suggestions would be welcome. 73, Randy, KS4L ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Stupid question about excess ladder line.
One can dress the excess feeder over bushes, low tree limbs or most any other support method to take up the excess feeder, if you do not want to cut it. However, cutting will in no way create a problem if later you need the cut off length restored. You simply solder, or twist the ends, put a bit of tape, or use a terminal strip with screws, or whatever works for you. The usual antenna used with parallel line requires a tuner anyway, thus; you simply tune out any minor bump in the line caused by the splicing, with your tuner along with the other matching it does to your rig. The whole works as a system to be tuned by the tuner. Any splice that is a miniscule fraction of a wavelength in size will not make an iota of difference in your feedline performance! 73, and GL, Stuart K5KVH We regularly dress window line across extra tree limbs taking a circuitous route to our station to use up excess line length at Field Day. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Replacing J3 on a KPA100
Lee, I would think you could remove the J3 connector from the top side of the board. Remove the connector mounting plates first, then heat the connection to the PC board and you should be able to pry up and remove the ends of the 'L' shaped conductor pieces from the board. You will have to remove both because the red and black housings are keyed together. After everything is free of the board, you can clean up the solder with wick or a solder sucker. Put on new housings and replace/resolder (mount the hardware before soldering). 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I was wondering if any of you have replaced J3 (the Anderson Power Pole Connectors) on a KPA100. The hot side (red) was slightly deformed when I did not have a good connection and the connector heated up.. The black APP is OK. Looking at the the instructions, it would mean taking the board off the heatsink...something I am reluctant to do. I was thinking about just cutting the two leads...and replacing the connectors...soldering the connectors to the cut leads above the circuit board. What's the guru's thoughts? Lee Buller - K0WA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KAT1 disappointment
One other thing. When, for example, I tune on 14 MHz, then tune on 21 MHz, then return to the same frequency on 14 MHz, the tuner doesn't seem to remember the 14 MHz setting. The relays clatter a while as the algorithm re-finds the best SWR. Is that right??? Just completed my KAT1 for my K1 that I finished last night. All the tests seem to work properly, and I get a r1.0 (SWR of 1.0) on all 4 bands (7, 10, 14, 21 MHz) when transmitting into a dummy load. However, when transmitting into my attic dipole the KAT1 can only achieve a match on 14 and 21 MHz (1.3 and 1.2 respectively). On 7 MHz I get r4.1 as best match, and on 10 MHz I get r3.2, both after much rattling of relays. My K2 (which I realize has a greater matching range) has no trouble with the same antenna setup. The rigs are connected with about 2 ft. of RG58 to a 4:1 LDG balun, then to maybe 30-40 ft. of 450 ohm ladder line out into the attic where I have a 40m. 1/4 wave dipole with the center at the peak of the roof and the ends drooped down in random ways to fit the available space. When I adjusted C9, by the way, I got a null of about 0.06 mv. As I said, I've been through all the tests on the KAT1, including trying each L and C individually to make sure they are all working, and everything looks good. So I'm guessing I have to do something to the antenna to get make things work. Perhaps play with the length of ladder line? Any suggestions would be welcome. 73, Randy, KS4L ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: KAT1
On Jun 21, 2006, at 7:07 PM, Randy Moore wrote: Just completed my KAT1 for my K1 that I finished last night. All the tests seem to work properly, and I get a r1.0 (SWR of 1.0) on all 4 bands (7, 10, 14, 21 MHz) when transmitting into a dummy load. However, when transmitting into my attic dipole the KAT1 can only achieve a match on 14 and 21 MHz (1.3 and 1.2 respectively). On 7 MHz I get r4.1 as best match, and on 10 MHz I get r3.2, both after much rattling of relays. My K2 (which I realize has a greater matching range) has no trouble with the same antenna setup. Randy, It's true that the KAT1 has a smaller reactance range than the K2. This was unavoidable given the limited PCB real estate. Assuming all the L and C components are installed correctly, there are several things you can do to effectively increase the matching range. Here are the things I'd try. 1. Use a 1:1/4:1 balun with a switch (like the BL2). There are times when this will transform the impedance to advantage on one or more bands. 2. Short the twinlead wires together, and connect the two wires directly to the KAT1's hot lead. Make sure the K1's chassis is grounded at the antenna jack or elsewhere. This turns the system into a random wire or sorts, and again this may allow easy matching on some bands. 3. Adjust the length of the twinlead or of the dipole itself by a few feet at a time. Apparently on 40 and 30 m the reactance is a lot higher than expected, and by adjusting the length a bit, you can sometimes move away from very high- or low-impedance points. Also note that the K1 is reasonably well protected against high SWR. You can safely use it into high SWR, although you might be down a dB or two at 4:1 depending on how the transmitter feels about the situation :) Let me know if any of these suggestions help. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] DQ2006S
I just worked DQ2006S on 14006, with my KX1 (no ATU) at 2w and my attic dipole. He's still on the air. This is a FIFA World Cup sepcial event station from Germany. Kewl! = Radio Amateurs - Fill your junk box, from my junkbox! http://www.hamradparts.com 73 de KB9BVN = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: KAT1
Thanks Wayne! I hadn't noticed the BL2 before. I'll probably give that a try. Meanwhile, I'll play with your other suggestions. 73, Randy Randy, It's true that the KAT1 has a smaller reactance range than the K2. This was unavoidable given the limited PCB real estate. Assuming all the L and C components are installed correctly, there are several things you can do to effectively increase the matching range. Here are the things I'd try. 1. Use a 1:1/4:1 balun with a switch (like the BL2). There are times when this will transform the impedance to advantage on one or more bands. 2. Short the twinlead wires together, and connect the two wires directly to the KAT1's hot lead. Make sure the K1's chassis is grounded at the antenna jack or elsewhere. This turns the system into a random wire or sorts, and again this may allow easy matching on some bands. 3. Adjust the length of the twinlead or of the dipole itself by a few feet at a time. Apparently on 40 and 30 m the reactance is a lot higher than expected, and by adjusting the length a bit, you can sometimes move away from very high- or low-impedance points. Also note that the K1 is reasonably well protected against high SWR. You can safely use it into high SWR, although you might be down a dB or two at 4:1 depending on how the transmitter feels about the situation :) Let me know if any of these suggestions help. 73, Wayne N6KR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1?
After reading the comments... eventually I guess I will need to break down and buy a K1 myself. I have been eyeing one up for quite some time. I don't have enough time to finish up all the add-ons for the second K2 yet so it will be a little while. Bill K9YEQ K2-35 5279; KX1-35/3080 ___ -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 8:29 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1? I have a K1 (bought someone else's) and a KX1 (built it, added KXB3080 this spring). I won't part with either, they do different stuff. The K1 is my all-time favorite radio, ever. Before I had Elecraft rigs, I had a Wilderness Sierra that I built -- that was my favorite before my K1. The K1 reminds me a little of the Sierra, but is a much more civilized rig. I just built an HF Packer amp, and the K1+amp combination is awesome. It's a tough choice, but I really don't think you can go wrong. 73, Mike N2HTT K1 s/n 566 KX1 s/n 98 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1?
Now you guys are convincing me I should get a K1, too! Heck I don't even have enough time to operate, but it sure is fun to build! Bill K9YEQ K2-35 5279; KX1-35/3080 ___ Jim wrote: Have been thinking about getting my feet wet with building either a K1 or KX1. ... I can work with either one but would prefer the one with best performance. As far as RF performance only goes, the K1 is clearly superior. (1) The K1 uses an LC VFO that is cleaner than the direct digital synthesis frequency generation scheme of the KX1. This reduces transmitter spurious output, and improves receiver performance because fewer spur frequencies are part of the local oscillator signal fed to the front-end mixer. In fact, according to reported measurements, the K1 has better transmitter spurious output specs than even the K2. [WJ] OTOH, the KX1 is clearly superior in terms of VFO stability...a DDS is about as stable as a crystal oscillator. It is superior in its span of frequency coverage within the limits of the DDS. It can switch between USB and LSB due to the frequency agility of the DDS as the local oscillator. It has neat features like audio feedback to controls. It is definitely smaller and lighter. IMHO, the KX1 has many positive features that the K1 doesn't have, but none of them except VFO stability actually are improvements over K1 RF performance in the ham CW bands. In overall RF performance, the K1 has the clear lead. But...if the K1 were not available, the KX1 would be my very next choice for a QRP rig. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT1 disappointment
Maybe, for your line length, the 4:1 transformation is putting the feedline input Z out of range of the K1 tuner on 40 and 30. It might be fun to try switching to a 1:1 balun (or no balun at all) to just to see what happens... since it's so easy to do. Beyond that, experimenting with feedline length seems like the next step. Bob NW8L On 6/21/06, Randy Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Just completed my KAT1 for my K1 that I finished last night. All the tests seem to work properly, and I get a r1.0 (SWR of 1.0) on all 4 bands (7, 10, 14, 21 MHz) when transmitting into a dummy load. However, when transmitting into my attic dipole the KAT1 can only achieve a match on 14 and 21 MHz (1.3 and 1.2 respectively). On 7 MHz I get r4.1 as best match, and on 10 MHz I get r3.2, both after much rattling of relays. My K2 (which I realize has a greater matching range) has no trouble with the same antenna setup. The rigs are connected with about 2 ft. of RG58 to a 4:1 LDG balun, then to maybe 30-40 ft. of 450 ohm ladder line out into the attic where I have a 40m. 1/4 wave dipole with the center at the peak of the roof and the ends drooped down in random ways to fit the available space. When I adjusted C9, by the way, I got a null of about 0.06 mv. As I said, I've been through all the tests on the KAT1, including trying each L and C individually to make sure they are all working, and everything looks good. So I'm guessing I have to do something to the antenna to get make things work. Perhaps play with the length of ladder line? Any suggestions would be welcome. 73, Randy, KS4L ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DQ2006S
Brian Murrey wrote: I just worked DQ2006S on 14006, with my KX1 (no ATU) at 2w and my attic dipole. He's still on the air. This is a FIFA World Cup sepcial event station from Germany. Kewl! Hello Brian ! In a few hours I will be actif as DR2006E from the city of Hamburg with my K2. Hope to work you ! Martin DD4UKP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Watkins-Johnson
OT here, but I recently got a Watkins-Johnson 8709 and wow do I ever love it! OK so the bottom case sheet metal is missing, gonna have to replace that with something, and one of the pushbuttons came off and fell on the floor this morning (I pushed it back onto its post) and it's idea of a narrow filter is 2.5kHz, this thing can really dig 'em out. Two questions - #1 do you think this is about as good as a K2 as a reciever, better, or worse, or what? Just curious. And #2, how well do audio filters, or even audio DSP like SGC sells, for narrowing things down for listening to CW? Man this thing is the bees knees. 73 Alex NS6Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: lightning
Good point! I didn't actually mean as the T'storm is raining electrons on you, but if the Triple Mega Viper Doppler Radar on the TV (don't laugh, we have those here in the Colonies, we've come a long way since Boston Harbor ... or maybe not) says it's about to be over you in 15 minutes, head for the basement and forget about the rig. Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw Ian Stirling wrote: On Wednesday 21 June 2006 19:50, Fred Jensen wrote: Disconnect your K2. Disconnect all your gear. Unplug it from the surge protectors in a thunderstorm. Fred, I agree on the first two, but not the third. If I see thunderstorms predicted, or I predict a local one myself, I will disconnect all my equipment. During a thunderstorm, which your third statement suggests, I will never do. I'd rather my radios fry than me. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962 -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Serial Port - DB-9 vs. RJ-45
Just a quick correction: Shielded RJ-45 cable and plugs exist and you can purchase them today. I can't remember, but are all the pins used on the special cable that connects the KIO2 to the computer? If not, then eight pins are plenty. Since most everyone doesn't have an RJ-45 crimper - the cables can come pre-crimped. Just solder the other connector on the other end. 73, James KB2FCV -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 19:31:36 EDT Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Serial Port - DB-9 vs. RJ-45 Four problems with using an RJ-45 for the port on the K2: - Only 8 wires - Not shielded - Could be mistaken for something else just as easily as a DB-9 And now the big one: Crimping an RJ-45 plug requires a special tool (mine only cost $30), and the plugs are one-shot items. DB-9 is no harder to solder than a PC board, no special tool, and you can reuse them. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DQ2006S
FB Martin! I will be watching the matches in about 9 hours...Go USA Go Italy! 73 = Radio Amateurs - Fill your junk box, from my junkbox! http://www.hamradparts.com 73 de KB9BVN = - Original Message - From: Martin DD4UKP [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Brian Murrey [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: KX1 elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 11:52 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] DQ2006S Brian Murrey wrote: I just worked DQ2006S on 14006, with my KX1 (no ATU) at 2w and my attic dipole. He's still on the air. This is a FIFA World Cup sepcial event station from Germany. Kewl! Hello Brian ! In a few hours I will be actif as DR2006E from the city of Hamburg with my K2. Hope to work you ! Martin DD4UKP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Watkins-Johnson
Alex, The 8709 was probably another in their line of surveillance receivers. It has Wide IF filter, so is not as selective and good in crowded bands as a K2. There are few receivers in the world that beat the K2 specs, if any. The WJ is a fine commercial EMC or military type receiver for its monitoring purposes. It however, was never intended to be competitive in a ham contest operation on phone, and of course does not have the filters to acquit itself on CW or narrow modes. But, they surely look great, like a radio should look. I am sure it is sensitive, and is more compact than its brother full rack model. I bet you did not pay full price for it, either? ;-) (It cost uncle more than most ham stations combined). 73, Stuart K5KVH old EMC/RFI user of WJ products ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Watkins-Johnson
Alex, Have you read the reviews of it on eham and the companion full rack width radio? There is a chance of blowing the front end, as these were used in listening posts, not near transmitters. Another reviewer mentioned the back up battery being prone to leaking and has posted the substitution of a back panel battery on pigtails to circumvent this problem. He used a RS battery of 2.4 volts as a replacement. I think that was on the 8718A full rack model, but likely yours will also have a battery back up. Good luck with the radio, Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Watkins-Johnson
I do not intend to use this near transmitters, so that should solve that, I hope! As for that batt, you have a point and thanks for the reminder. I need to get in there and see where that batt is, and see if it's ok. I need to make a replacement bottom panel for it too! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 21, 2006, at 10:05 PM, Stuart Rohre wrote: Alex, Have you read the reviews of it on eham and the companion full rack width radio? There is a chance of blowing the front end, as these were used in listening posts, not near transmitters. Another reviewer mentioned the back up battery being prone to leaking and has posted the substitution of a back panel battery on pigtails to circumvent this problem. He used a RS battery of 2.4 volts as a replacement. I think that was on the 8718A full rack model, but likely yours will also have a battery back up. Good luck with the radio, Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Replacing J3 on a KPA100
Don Wilhelm wrote: I would think you could remove the J3 connector from the top side of the board. Remove the connector mounting plates first, then heat the connection to the PC board and you should be able to pry up and remove the ends of the 'L' shaped conductor pieces from the board. Hmmm, if only the plastic is damaged, why not pull up the 'tongue' of the connectors with a small screwdriver and pull them out of the housings? Then snap them into new housings, and Bob's your uncle! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Q: Building the K2
Tom WB2QDG wrote: Yes the basic K2 with the ATU also has 2 antenna jacks. I also put a dummy load on 'Ant 2', I can't tell you how many times I tried to auto tune into an empty 'Ant 2', before I finally caught on. Been there, done that, still do it occasionally As I seldom have my K2 at full power, I ended up using a 50 ohm 'terminator' on 'Ant2'. It looks like a BNC connector and has a small chain that you can screw down so you can't loose it. In the old days these were used to terminate 50 ohm Ethernet networks. I'm not sure about the power they are supposed to be able to handle, but this particular one has survived many of my attempts to tune 'Ant2' Bart de PA3GYU. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
