[Elecraft] K1 tuning nonlinearity mod?

[Cathy James]

I recall seeing a reference somewhere to a mod for the K1 tuning pot 
circuit.  The mod causes the pot to change frequency about 13 kHz per 
turn at the low end of the band (thus giving easy tuning in the portion 
where most ops will spend most of their time, and 22 kHz per turn at the 
high end of the 170 kHz tuning range (thus giving access to all of the 
40 meter CW band, at the price of touchy tuning in the seldom-used portion).


Unfortunately I can't seem to find the references now.  Can anyone point 
me to information on this mod?  Does it work as advertised?  I am not 
familiar with the exact relationship between the voltage across the 
varactor diode and the resulting capacitance, so I can't compute it 
directly.  I *have* found some pointers on how to linearize the tuning 
action at about 17 kHz per turn, but that is less ideal than the 13/22 
arrangement.


Thanks for any replies.

Cathy
N5WVR

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[Elecraft] HP-8640b UPDATE

[Larry - WA2DGD]

Hi,

Well I just didn't feel like giving in to Murphy. Searched the Internet 
and found 2 good sites dealing with the HP-8640b.
One site is EB5ABV where I found the answer to the frequency 
counter/readout problem. I managed to repair the broken

wafer and now the freq. counter/display works great.
The other site is VE7CA, where, with a little trouble shooting found the 
answer to the no output problem..the Final Amplifier
Hybrid module is NG.  He does offer suggestions for substitutions which 
I may have to try.
Has anyone on these lists dealt with the same problem, if so, what was 
your remedy, and any possibility someone has a

surplus stock of these original parts?
I guess as a bona fide home brewer/experimenter, I just can't give in to 
Murphy.yet.


--
73
Larry
WA2DGD


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[Elecraft] PLL OSC Ref Unstable

[Jean-Francois Joly]

Good Day All,

In the Alignement and Test Part 2, I cannot manage to read 12090kHz at
TP3. Instead, I get a reading - and a very unstable one which
fluctuates a lot - of approximately 450 Hz. When I take a look at TP3
on the scope, I see a lot of noise/garbage.

Other hints & observations:

- No signal on pin 1 of U4.
- I get a stable reading of 12312Hz on TP1.
- Band+/Band- will increase/decrease TP3 freq of approx 12Hz

Any ideas of what may be causing the problem ? Could it be a bad PLL chip ?

Thank You
Jean-Francois VA2JFJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K2-no power output

[Gary Marks]

Don,
   I can't find any problems with the KAT2 cables. I removed the KAT2 from 
the rig by disconnecting the coax at P6 and the 10-pin connector. Using the 
BNC connector marked ANTENNA, I've connected my dummy load.I set the power 
level at 5 watts and pressed TUNE and only see an output of 0.2 watts.
I've read the prep for signal tracing and am not exactly sure about the 
jumpers at J9 & J10. I'm guessing the two jumpers go from pin 1 to pin 3 ? 
Correct ?  Also, I no longer have C167 (.001 or "102") and would have to get 
one next week. I do have a .001 "disc" cap available. Would that work ?

Gary


Gary,

This problem has nothing to do directly with the installation of the 
KDSP2.
Think of whatever else you may have accidently touched - the KAT2 cables 
are

a relevant example.

Remove the KAT2 and feed the K2 directly into a 50 ohm dummy load - when 
you

press TUNE you should see the output power displayed (and it will be
accurate if you have a good 50 ohm dummy load).  That will tell you if the
K2 is capable of producing the required power output.

If you do see the proper power output with the ATU disconnected, look for
the problem with the ATU.  Check your K2 to KAT2 coaxial cable carefully 
to

be certain the pins are properly seated and the wires for the coax are not
broken at either end - sometimes they will break with a bit of flexing if
they are not properly soldered.

If you get no output with the ATU disconnected, then prepare yourself for
the Transmit Signal Tracing that is detailed in the Troubleshooting 
section

of the manual.  You will need the RF Probe assembled (or an oscilloscope
with a 10X probe) for that testing.

73,
Don W3FPR



-Original Message-

I just finished installing the KDPS2 boards and they check out
OK. I also have the KAT2 installed and it "was" working.

I was going to operate today for the first time but when
pressing TUNE, I'm not getting any power out. I have an external
watt meter too. When I press TUNE, I see Atu on the right side of
the LCD then it quickly flashes to 1.0-1 on the left side , then
displays Lo  P. I've changed bands and frequency's up & down but
do not here the relays in the antenna tuner "clicking" as before.
I went through the various relays through the MENU and I can here
each individual relay "click" just as I did when first testing
the KAT2 option. Nothing on CW or SSB. I switched to ANT2 which
is my Elecraft Dummy Load with the same thing happening so it
isn't a problem with the antenna.

The KAT2 manual says that when this happens to increase the power
which I did in steps up to 15 watts with no change.   Am
I missing a setting or does the KDSP2 board have something to do
with this. I believe I installed the top cover correctly and have
all the wires connected after installing the DSP boards.

Any suggestions ?

THANKS.Gary  WD8ICX





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Re: [Elecraft] K1 tuning nonlinearity mod?

[Mike Morrow]

Cathy wrote:

>I recall seeing a reference somewhere to a mod for the K1 tuning pot 
>circuit.  The mod causes the pot to change frequency about 13 kHz per 
>turn at the low end of the band (thus giving easy tuning in the portion 
>where most ops will spend most of their time, and 22 kHz per turn at the 
>high end of the 170 kHz tuning range (thus giving access to all of the 
>40 meter CW band, at the price of touchy tuning in the seldom-used portion).

The original K1 of five years ago did not have a 100K resistor across the VFO 
potentiometer, and there were discussions on how to alter the non-linearity of 
the tuning by placing resistors across the potentiometer.  I wrote in 2001:

> ... I collected data for my K1 with C2 = 120 pF:
>
>(1)  As designed (no resistor from terminal 1 to 2)
>(2)  100k ohm resistor from terminal 1 to 2
>(3)  220k ohm resistor from terminal 1 to 2.
>
>VFO Pot  As Designed   100k Resistor220k Resistor
>  Turn  Increment   IncrementIncrement
>NumberkHz/turn  kHz/turn   kHz/turn
>1  17.7  15.917.6
>2  19.8  15.618.0
>3  22.1  16.118.7
>4  23.2  16.620.0
>5  21.7  18.120.2
>6  18.2  18.618.5
>7  13.7  17.515.8
>8  11.6  16.013.6
>9  10.5  16.013.1
>  10  10.9  18.414.3

R19 at 100K was eventually made a part of the K1 because it resulted in the 
best consistent tuning rate across the VFO span.

However, Reed/K7FLY wanted exactly what you want, and he had earlier reported 
the following results with a 68K resistor:

> ... With the 120pf cap and 68K mod, the results:
> 
> Freq  Diff
> 0
> 1515   Finer tuning at this end
> 2914
> 4314
> 5815
> 7517
> 9318
> 112   19
> 131   19
> 150   19
> 170   20   Coarse tuning at this end

The results of all this then showed that to get finer tuning at the low end, 
use something less than 100K.  

Were I you, I'd try paralleling another 100K resistor across the existing R19 
(at the VFO pot terminals).  That would give an effective value of 50K, and 
result in even finer kHz/turn at the low end, and coarser tuning at the high 
end, than Reed reported.

There is one thing to consider if you do this.  If you have a filter board with 
30m on it, then you will suffer from the coarse tuning because the 10.1 to 
10.15 MHz band coverage is at the high end.

Personally, I like the 100K option best.  The K1, contrary to many assertions, 
does not tune too fast anywhere, even with the 170 kHz span option.  The 
problem with K1 tuning is that the VFO pot shaft (either the supplied pot or 
the metal shaft version) has very very little resistance to rotational motion, 
so it is hard to remove one's fingers from the dial without imparting a small 
amount of undesired alteration to the dial setting.  The best thing I ever did 
was hand cut some circular thin felt "washers" to place behind the VFO knob to 
add a very small amount of resistance to rotation.  If you use very thin felt 
such as can be found at a hobby store, you can add just enough layers to get 
exactly the right feel.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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RE: [Elecraft] Rigblaster Pro RF issue

[rt_clay]

>I am running a RIGblaster Pro with my K2. Under QRP conditions, I have no
>problems. However, on 40m & 80m QRO with an external amp, I am finding that
>I am getting serious RF getting back into the rigblaster. I have isolated
>it to the rigblaster's microphone cable that connects the K2 to the
>rigblaster. I am certain this is the path of the RF because I can replace
>the rigblaster mic cable with the K2s regular microphone and use its PTT and
>couple the sound from my headphones into the mic and get transmit without
>the RF crap on output. My question is this. What is the best way to
>eliminate the RF on the rigblaster's mic cable? Would several ferrite beads
>do the job? Anyone else ever have this problem or have suggestions?

I had similar very bad problems with RF in the audio of my two K2/100's. They 
were ok with just a mic on a short cable, but trying to use the soundcard audio 
during a contest using N1MM software produced terrible results running any more 
than qrp. And no, I don't have unbalanced antennas, all are dipoles or yagis 
far from the shack with good baluns and buried feedlines. The interface circuit 
used isolation transformers and had not given any problems with other radios.

Here is what I did:

1) modify the K2 audio input circuit (on SSB module) by adding a RFC and bypass 
caps. Search the email list for notes on this, I forget exactly who posted it. 
This helped a LOT.

2) set the K2 mic gain to low ("1" setting) and boost external level to 
compensate. I also had to build a 1-transistor mic preamp (with plenty of RF 
bypassing) to boost the mic level going into the computer sound card somewhat. 
(one mic was a Heil HC-4, the other a home-made headset with an elec. mic 
element).

It's now bulletproof at 100W. I haven't tested it with the amp on, but I think 
it will be ok. It helps a lot to have a second radio to listen to your signal 
while you are adjusting things.

Tor
N4OGW


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[Elecraft] Cool Alternative stand/carrier for K1 with case

[ARDUJENSKI]

Surfing the net I came across an interesting  site. W0VLZ has a tool box 
which carries his K1 radio and misc items. On top he  has a pair of METAL 
HINGES. 
They lay flat during transport then fold up for  supporting the K1. Pretty 
ingenious. Not for the backpacker but heck we all  don't backpack all the  time.

http://www.io.com/~nielw/qrp/unpack.htm

About the only thing  I would add is a quick reference sheet with a light 
backing and a magnetic strip  so I could locate it on top or the side depending 
upon the orientation of the  K1.

Nice job Bill.

Alan KB7MBI
Woodinville, WA
FISTS  5702   CC: 1885
SKCC 1988   NAQCC 058  

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[Elecraft] KRC2 + K2 + XV + PC = cabling confusion

[John D'Ausilio]

So .. not a moment too soon. I've completed the new XV144 to use as
the intermediate IF in my rover microwave setup. Now I've already
configured the system  such that the K2 connects to a KRC2 with a
custom map, and the KRC2 switches around all sorts of stuff for me.
Last time out I ended up using an IC706 as the IF rig when the
equipment I was going to use didn't work. So now this time I'd like
all these things to play together .. the K2 driving an XV and the KRC2
and Roverlog.

Looking at the KRC2 manual, it sort of indicates an either/or
scenario, and jumpers determine whether the PC side of the cable gets
AUXBUS ans 8R and other control signals. Since I want a PC on there,
can I just parallel the K2 end? I was using a straignt serial molded
9-pin cable between the K2 and the KRC2, now I'll have to build one
(or maybe just hack into it and splice).

de w1rt/john
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[Elecraft] NAQCC Bear Hunt

[Larry Makoski W2LJ]

WAS BEAR HUNT:  Our latest club activity is now off and running!  Paul, KD2MX has the honor of becoming NAQCC 
Bear Number One.  Paul's QTH of New Jersey isn't a "rare" state by any means, but we urge all club 
members to work Paul and begin earning credits for the NAQCC "Bear Hunter" award and the QRP WAS 
with the "Bear Hunter" endorsement.

Paul's planned operating dates/times/frequencies for the week of 9/4 -9/10 will 
be posted on the club web site.

Any club member can sign up to be a "Bear" for a week and be hunted by the club "Bear 
Hunters".  See http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/wasproject.html for the WAS BEAR HUNT rules and how to apply 
to be a "Bear".  Upon application you will be provided with a list of open weeks from which to 
choose.

ENJOY THE BEAR HUNT!

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Tilt Bail Alternative

[John Young]

David
  I got a pair of laptop legs

http://www.ugeek.com/hwswrev/hardware/laplegs/index.htm

For my K1 I only used one in the center of the front edge.  I only 
allowed the glue to attach to the bottom cover which allows the front 
panel to be removed.  I don't have a place to post pictures yet but 
could send them direct.


73 John
WA8KNE


David Toepfer wrote:

I was looking at the Elecraft Picture Gallery
() and at the bopttom I saw a
couple of pics of DL2DE's K2
(,
) with some
sort of flip feet that I would like to get a pair of for my future K1.  Does
anyone know where I could get a pair of these?

David, k3tue
.

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Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 + K2 + XV + PC = cabling confusion

[Jack Brindle]

John;

As I recall your configuration, your KRC2 uses the band info from the  
Auxbus to select the various transverters. I don't believe that it  
needs the RS-232 communications for your use. This means that  you  
can fabricate a cable that connects the K2's serial port to the  
computer. The KRC2 and the XVT both need most of the remaining  
signals, so you can connect them from the K2 to the KRC2 and the XVT  
in any convenient fashion. The easiest would be to cable from the K2  
to the KRC2, then from the second KRC2 connector to the XVT. You  
might want to look at the cable fabricated  for the KAT100, it  
provides the connections you need, so something very similar might be  
the way for you to go.


Good luck with it, let me know if you need help.

On Sep 2, 2006, at 3:07 PM, John D'Ausilio wrote:


So .. not a moment too soon. I've completed the new XV144 to use as
the intermediate IF in my rover microwave setup. Now I've already
configured the system  such that the K2 connects to a KRC2 with a
custom map, and the KRC2 switches around all sorts of stuff for me.
Last time out I ended up using an IC706 as the IF rig when the
equipment I was going to use didn't work. So now this time I'd like
all these things to play together .. the K2 driving an XV and the KRC2
and Roverlog.

Looking at the KRC2 manual, it sort of indicates an either/or
scenario, and jumpers determine whether the PC side of the cable gets
AUXBUS ans 8R and other control signals. Since I want a PC on there,
can I just parallel the K2 end? I was using a straignt serial molded
9-pin cable between the K2 and the KRC2, now I'll have to build one
(or maybe just hack into it and splice).

de w1rt/john


- Jack Brindle, W6FB
 
-



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[Elecraft] DMM Recommendation

[Paul Neuman]

I looking to purchase a decent DMM and would appreciate any 
recommendations of  specific models. I've had two crappy Radio Shack 
DMMs blow up on me.  Each time I bought one, I promised myself it was 
only until I could get something good ordered and then promptly put it 
off.  Well now I'm DMM-less again and I'm in the middle of installing my 
3080 option.


I'm looking through the Mouser catalog and there are so many choices.  I 
guess I can't go wrong with a Fluke.  Would like something for <$100 but 
I don't want to be buying one again in two months.


No HV or special requirements.  Thanks in advance.

Paul

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RE: [Elecraft] DMM Recommendation

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Paul, KD2MX, asked:
I looking to purchase a decent DMM and would appreciate any 
recommendations of  specific models. I've had two crappy Radio Shack 
DMMs blow up on me.  Each time I bought one, I promised myself it was 
only until I could get something good ordered and then promptly put it 
off.  Well now I'm DMM-less again and I'm in the middle of installing my 
3080 option.

I'm looking through the Mouser catalog and there are so many choices.  I 
guess I can't go wrong with a Fluke.  Would like something for <$100 but 
I don't want to be buying one again in two months.

No HV or special requirements.  Thanks in advance.

-

About 7 years ago my Fluke died temporarily. The Fluke was ten years old
then and part of the button mechanism died. While waiting for a new part I
swung by Radio Shack and bought a mult-function DMM from them for about $80.


Seven years later I'm still using the RS meter. My Fluke is back in business
but the RS does a few things the Fluke doesn't and I don't worry about
hurting it as much. Indeed, running a temperature cycle test one time I put
the whole meter in the environmental chamber forgot about it! The case
warped on the RS meter, it got so hot (around 100C). I've dropped it, banged
it and done everything but hook it across the mains in Ohms mode, but it's
still tickin' and still matches the Fluke's accuracy within 1% or so. 

I feel a little guilty about how I've abused the RS meter. Been thinking of
ordering a new case to replace the battered, warped one it now has. 

So I'm surprised that you've had RS meters "blow up" on you! What exactly
did they do? 

There is an obvious difference between the Fluke and Radio Shack meter. The
Fluke displays values much faster. The Fluke is virtually instantaneous. The
RS meter takes about two or three seconds although it's "relative level"
bargraph for peaking adjustments is plenty fast. In my experience, that is
one of the big differences in DMM's these days. It all comes down to the
application-specific integrated circuit (ASIC) the DMM uses. Fluke, Radio
Shack, etc., all get them from various chip manufacturers, and the faster
chips apparently cost more. At least the meters they go into do! Of course,
the other differences are in the number of digits in the display (and my RS
has one more digit than my Fluke, which I find very handy at times) and in
the number of operations they perform. One thing that keeps my RS meter on
the bench is the ability to put any old junque box transistor in a socket on
the front of it and it reports the Base, Emitter and Collector connections
and the current gain (hFe) in a moment. As a tinkerer with a messy junque
box, that's very handy! 

As much as I paid for the Fluke meter, if I had to let go of one of them
today, I'd keep the RS meter. The specific model I bought has been replaced,
but they always keep a model that has the same features and which sells in
the $80 - $100 range. 

Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[Kevin Rock]

Good Evening,
   I will sleep well tonight.  I may have problems rolling out of bed in  
the morning though.  My nephew came over to help me cut wood today.  With  
his help I was able to get about five times more wood layed in than I  
could have accomplished on my own.  However, his youthful vigor (age 26),  
and my slightly older body were not always working in the same rhythm.   
Tomorrow will dawn and I'll find a warm bath to be a very good salve to my  
aching body.  I did appreciate his help which got me very close to my  
winter goal.  One more row of wood and Sam and I will be comfy.
   Starting at 0200z I turned on 14050 kHz and listened.  I've been  
listening since but have not heard the interloper jamming the frequency.   
I am unsure of his habits though and may need to add a proviso to the 20  
meter frequency for tomorrow's twenty meter net.  Either 10 kHz up or down  
should provide us with space enough so I can hear the weak stations away  
from his AM chatter.  Last week I almost dragged K2HYD out but through  
fading and QRM I lost him.  I thought I had him but he disappeared.  If I  
had not had the interference I would have nabbed him first time.  I will  
strive not to let that happen again.
   Forty meters was not a problem last week so we'll stay on or near our  
favored frequency.  If there is someone there beforehand I'll be far  
enough away not to bother an ongoing QSO.  I do flip back before net and  
if the frequency is open I'll move to it.

   Now to get some sleep and find the Ben Gay ;)

   Please join us:
Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4pm PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0200z (Sunday 7pm PDT)  7045 kHz

Until tomorrow,
   Kevin. KD5ONS
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[Elecraft] Intermittent RXsensitivity...

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi all
I notice an intermittent rx sensitivity on my K2, Serial-Nr.
488, after changing band eg. from 20 to 40 and vice versa. After
pushing tune or transmitting a couple of dots the sensitivity 
returns
on the activ band and is gone on the other band. This happens with
and without the KAT2.

Where shall I start searching?

73 Gerald, HB9CEY
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