Re: [Elecraft] 50 vs 75 ohm N-connectors

2006-10-14 Thread w2bvh
On Ken Kopp, K0PP's advice (nice call by the way), I checked for some 
markings. With bright light and a magnifier I find it's an Andrew 42W 
connector, of which there is little info on the internet. Except that 
it's for use with hardline, 1/2" I believe.


But with some more poking around on the net I found the following: 
http://www.amphenolrf.com/products/CatalogPages/typen_catalog.pdf


Page 2 of the pdf shows the length and diameter of the center pin! So 
tomorrow I'll go mike mine up and from that i'll know what impedance 
connector I have!


Thanks for the background info.

I think maybe I can adapt it for use with RG-213 / LMR400 / 9913F  if it 
is a 50 ohm job.


73,
Lenny W2BVH
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RE: [Elecraft] 50 vs 75 ohm N-connectors

2006-10-14 Thread K6MR
Not sure you have anything to do the measurement, but the center pin of a 50
ohm type n male connector should be 0.0640 inches in diameter (this is the
last part of the pin before it tapers to a blunted point).  A 75 ohm pin
will be 0.0353 inches.  It's easy to tell if you have one of each, but
unless you've seen them before it may not be obvious.  

If you can remove the center pin and have a known 50 ohm female jack, insert
the pin into the center conductor of the jack.  If it goes in easily and
seems loose, the pin is a 75 ohm.  The pin should require a small amount of
force to spread the fingers of the jack.  As was mentioned before, don't try
this with a 75 ohm jack since you will ruin the jack if you push a 50 ohm
pin into it.  No problem with a  50 ohm jack since it is too big for the
smaller 75 ohm pin.

Ken  K6MR 



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of w2bvh
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 8:28 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] 50 vs 75 ohm N-connectors

I just picked up some fine looking heavily built male N connectors at a
hamfest. Before I mount one onto the antenna end of a cable and send it up
18 feet over my roof I'd like to make sure it's a 50 ohm "N".

Does someone know how to tell a 50 ohm from a 75 ohm "N"?

Thanks in advance for your help.

73,
Lenny W2BVH
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[Elecraft] Re: Indoor antenna for KX1...

2006-10-14 Thread wayne burdick

Thom R LaCosta wrote:

I used #26 enamel wire to form a complete loop around the ceiling 
molding



Am I guessing correctly that a similar arrangement would work with the 
K2?


Yes. Actually better, since the KAT2 has a wider matching range than 
the KXAT1.





What were the room dimensions, or are they not that critical?


Around 12 x 12, but not critical.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2006-10-14 Thread Kevin Rock

Good Evening,
   This week has been a busy one.  It did not help matters when my back  
decided to started to spasm.  That made putting on my socks quite a  
chore!  But things are getting better.  Today I carried a couple loads of  
wood into the house and sealed a few holes against the predatory squirrel  
population.  They are dead set on living in my roof.  I've sealed one hole  
and another but they seem to find any weakness and keep me hopping to fill  
it.  I feel like Bill Murray in Caddy Shack if my memory serves me  
correctly.  If only Sam were a few years younger they'd be shaking to  
their little furry paws!
   Currently I am tuned to 40 meters as I have been for the last few  
hours.  DX appears from around the globe.  Now if only tomorrow's  
propagation reports are as good.  It may be that the RF won't land before  
it gets into DX territory but one can never tell.  Sunspot number?  Zero!   
That has never stymied my calling CQ though.  As ever I'll send out my  
call and at least one other operator will come back.  I have not been  
skunked in all my years of calling.  I don't think it will start tomorrow.
   Now for those squirrels.  If they would kindly leave the domicile I  
could make stew.  I would rather not shoot a hole in my roof.  Makes  
finding the game more difficult.  However, there is a Sawzall at the ready  
;)  If you feel you have the time, your rig is itching for a QSO, and you  
have your antenna waxed come join the fun.  Tell me your methods for  
squirrel eradication or simply give me a recipe for squirrel stew.  I am  
all ears!


   Please join us:
Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4pm PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0200z (Sunday 7pm PDT)  7045 kHz

Until tomorrow,
   Kevin. KD5ONS

P.S. I forgot.  On Thursday I got to belay a 24 foot helium balloon up  
into the blue.  We took photos of the Columbia River near Deer Island.   
Mergansers, gulls, eagles, herons, kingfishers, and many, many geese  
stopped by to watch.  A few container ships with tugs attached made me  
quick step up the bank while attached to the balloon!

   KJR
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Fw: [Elecraft] 50 vs 75 ohm N-connectors

2006-10-14 Thread Ken Kopp

Jim's correct - There ARE differences between 75 and 50 ohm coax
connectors ... especially Type N.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Price

To: 'Larry' ; 'w2bvh'
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 4:19 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 50 vs 75 ohm N-connectors


Not so.  There is a very real physical difference between 50-ohm and 
75-ohm
type N connectors.  The 50-ohm male pins are bigger than the 75-ohm pins 
and
will damage a 75-ohm female connector.  Likewise if a 75-ohm male is 
mated

with a 50-ohm female there will not be good electrical contact.

73,
Jim - N4ST

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 23:56
To: w2bvh
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 50 vs 75 ohm N-connectors

w2bvh wrote:


Does someone know how to tell a 50 ohm from a 75 ohm "N"?



The impedance is a characteristic of the coax cable, not the connector.
What does matter is what coax cable(s) the N connectors are designed 
for,

such as RG8, RG58, RG214, etc. Take a look at
http://www.smelectronics.us/typencableconnectors.htm. This might help 
you

match your connectors to their appropriate cables.

73
Larry
KB5DXY
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RE: [Elecraft] 50 vs 75 ohm N-connectors

2006-10-14 Thread Jim Price
Not so.  There is a very real physical difference between 50-ohm and 75-ohm
type N connectors.  The 50-ohm male pins are bigger than the 75-ohm pins and
will damage a 75-ohm female connector.  Likewise if a 75-ohm male is mated
with a 50-ohm female there will not be good electrical contact.

73,
Jim - N4ST 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 23:56
To: w2bvh
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 50 vs 75 ohm N-connectors

w2bvh wrote:
>
> Does someone know how to tell a 50 ohm from a 75 ohm "N"?
>
>
The impedance is a characteristic of the coax cable, not the connector. 
What does matter is what coax cable(s) the N connectors are designed for,
such as RG8, RG58, RG214, etc. Take a look at
http://www.smelectronics.us/typencableconnectors.htm. This might help you
match your connectors to their appropriate cables.

73
Larry
KB5DXY
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Re: [Elecraft] 50 vs 75 ohm N-connectors

2006-10-14 Thread Larry

w2bvh wrote:


Does someone know how to tell a 50 ohm from a 75 ohm "N"?


The impedance is a characteristic of the coax cable, not the connector. 
What does matter is what coax cable(s) the N connectors are designed 
for, such as RG8, RG58, RG214, etc. Take a look at 
http://www.smelectronics.us/typencableconnectors.htm. This might help 
you match your connectors to their appropriate cables.


73
Larry
KB5DXY
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Re: [Elecraft] Carrying The KX1 With Batteries Installed

2006-10-14 Thread Gene Hall

I carry my KX1 with me whenever I am kayak camping and always have a set of
Lithium AA cells in it with a small thin piece of plastic between two of the
cells to prevent accidental discharge.  My operating while camping is from
an external battery stashed seperately in the kayak.

My rig, a wire antenna and everything I need to operate as well as food for
a couple of days are packed into a wide mouth Gallon cooler tied to me just
in case I have an accident and I loose the kayak and gear.  It floats and I
always wear my PFD.
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[Elecraft] 50 vs 75 ohm N-connectors

2006-10-14 Thread w2bvh
I just picked up some fine looking heavily built male N connectors at a 
hamfest. Before I mount one onto the antenna end of a cable and send it 
up 18 feet over my roof I'd like to make sure it's a 50 ohm "N".


Does someone know how to tell a 50 ohm from a 75 ohm "N"?

Thanks in advance for your help.

73,
Lenny W2BVH
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[Elecraft] When do you use fast AGC?

2006-10-14 Thread Jeff
Hi gang,

The K2 is the first rig I've had that has adjustable AGC.  Under what 
conditions would one benefit from using fast AGC?  It seems that slow AGC is 
easier on the ears on CW.

Thanks & 73,
Jeff
WB5GWB
Long Island, NY
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[Elecraft] RE:OT: Alternator line filter

2006-10-14 Thread Steven Pituch
-Original Message-
From: Ken Kopp [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

Caution ... are you SURE you're hearing alternator noise and NOT the fule
pump noise that Ford PU's are infamous for?  I have one, BTW. 

If it's indeed alternator noise, take a look (Google) 'NEWMAR'.
They have an extensive line of quality products.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Hi Ken,
Noise rises in frequency as I press on the gas pedal.  I have also have read
about the electric fuel pump noise but haven't detected it yet.

Yes, I have seen the Newmar filters.  They are very nice.  I have seen one
for at little as $125.  
http://www.tessco.com/products/displayProductInfo.do?sku=99967&eventPage=1
That's why I want to built one myself.  If I can figure out what would be a
good toroid core say in the T240 size, I think I can build one as nice for
about $30.  I might need to stack three, or put several wound toroids in
series.  That’s why I was looking for some advice since I am not good at
picking out the correct toroid mix from the spec sheets.
There are some toroids recommended by WA1MVX at
http://www.sanantoniohams.org/Tips/whine.htm
They are made by SIFERRIT and are ferrite, 64mm O.D., and type 87 material.
http://www.surplusmaster.com/prods/comp/misc1.htm
However, I don't know if a better material is available and I don’t know if
I want to buy 20 of them.

Regards,
Steve, W2MY

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Alternator line filter

2006-10-14 Thread Ken Kopp

Caution ... are you SURE you're hearing alternator noise
and NOT the fule pump noise that Ford PU's are infamous
for?  I have one, BTW. 


If it's indeed alternator noise, take a look (Google) 'NEWMAR'.
They have an extensive line of quality products.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 build: receiver problem....it does not work.

2006-10-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
Chuck,

Yes, the problem you are having is most likely related to the operation of
Control Board Q1 (or Q2).  These are not a switching power supply, but they
do serve as switches to direct the 8 volts depending on whether the K2 is
trying to transmit of receive.  Q1 and Q2 are not likely your problem - the
problem is most likely with an unsoldered connection or a zapped 2N7000 JFET
(Q4).  Read on for more info:

The control for Q1 and Q2 comes from Q3 and Q4, and right now, I would
expect that the drain of both of them has almost 8 volts DC on it.  So check
the gate of Q3 and Q4 - if the K2 is in receive, the gate of Q4 should be
near 5 volts - which should turn Q4 on and make it conduct (producing a low
voltage at its drain).

Now that you have a bit of understanding about the circuit, you should be
able to discover the problem quickly - if the gate of Q4 is not at a high
state (3.5 to 5 volts), then the problem is in the RX signal from the
microprocessor, but if Q4 gate is indeed at a high level, the microprocessor
is doing its job and Q4 is not conducting as it should - likely because it
was damaged with static when it was installed, 2N7000 JFETs are prone to
static damage and must be handled with good anti-static practice.

If you are only at the part 2 alignment and test, you should have an
uninstalled 2N7000 that you can borrow should you need a replacement.  An
email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] should bring one in your mail within a week.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> I am at the end of the part 2 alignment and test (everything up to this
> point is checked out and working to the level spec'd in the manual) . I
> should be hearing something with my XG2 set for 7040, but don't.
>
> I am following the trouble shooting section and have found that I do not
> have 8 volts at [the right side of D6] on the control board. I followed
> this back to pin 22 (8R) on J7, which also does not have 8 volts on it,
> but pin 6 of J7 (8A) does have 8 vols.
>
> On the control board the 8 volt and 5 volt regulators are working and I
> have 8 volts on the middle pin of Q1 and Q2 (the base), but don't on the
> collector. I am just a want to be EE (at best) but believe that I may
> have a bad components.
>
> However, this is a switching power circuit, so I not sure if there is
> supposed to be, but it seems like their should in order for 8R to have
> the 8 volts for the receiver to be powered.
>
> Any help or advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks...
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Indoor antenna for KX1...

2006-10-14 Thread Thom R LaCosta


Yup, that was me. I used #26 enamel wire to form a complete loop around the 
ceiling molding. The best configuration was with the loop shorted and a 
single wire running down the corner of the room to the radio. You'll also 
need a ground counterpoise wire -- I used about 16' of wire laid around the 
edge of the walls, at the baseboard. Everything is held in place with 
push-pins, which I color-matched to the paint in the room.


Am I guessing correctly that a similar arrangement would work with the K2?

What were the room dimensions, or are they not that critical?

thanks

73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring,
QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database
www.tlchost.net/hosting/  ***  Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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[Elecraft] Re: [QRP-L] Items FS

2006-10-14 Thread Brent Sutphin

The filter has been sold pending payment.

Brent
- Original Message - 
From: "Brent Sutphin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "QRP-L" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 3:39 PM
Subject: [QRP-L] Items FS



I have the following items for sale.

Elecraft XG-1 Receiver Test Oscillator.  Oscillator works FB and is in 
like new condition.  $39 shipped.


Rock Mite Audio Filter from KD1JV.  The filter is built but never used. 
Comes with instruction sheet.

$15 shipped.

If anyone is interested in these items please contact me off list.

Thanks
Brent  WB4X
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[Elecraft] K2 build: receiver problem....it does not work.

2006-10-14 Thread Chuck
I am at the end of the part 2 alignment and test (everything up to this
point is checked out and working to the level spec'd in the manual) . I
should be hearing something with my XG2 set for 7040, but don't. 

I am following the trouble shooting section and have found that I do not
have 8 volts at [the right side of D6] on the control board. I followed
this back to pin 22 (8R) on J7, which also does not have 8 volts on it,
but pin 6 of J7 (8A) does have 8 vols.

On the control board the 8 volt and 5 volt regulators are working and I
have 8 volts on the middle pin of Q1 and Q2 (the base), but don't on the
collector. I am just a want to be EE (at best) but believe that I may
have a bad components.

However, this is a switching power circuit, so I not sure if there is
supposed to be, but it seems like their should in order for 8R to have
the 8 volts for the receiver to be powered.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks...
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[Elecraft] K2 and SoftRock40

2006-10-14 Thread Tom Hall
"Has anyone done this?"

Hi David,
It's in German but, it's what you asked for:

http://dj9cs.raisdorf.net/K2-Panorama.html

Tom, AK2B

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[Elecraft] OT: Alternator line filter

2006-10-14 Thread Steven Pituch
Hi all,
I need to make or purchase an alternator line filter for my Ford F-150
pickup truck.  I have searched on the net for a design that would specify
the toroid mix and other details but have not found anything very good so
far.  What mix and size toroid would you use in the DC line to filter out
the alternator whine?

Regards,
Steve Pituch, W2MY


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Re: [Elecraft] Accuracy of W1 wattmeter

2006-10-14 Thread Earl W Cunningham
Vic, K2VCO wrote:

"The new W1 wattmeter is spec'd to provide 0.5 db accuracy.  Is this 0.5
db of full scale or of the actual reading?

If the former, then I figure that the reading at 5 watts would be plus or
minus about 1.8 watts.  If the latter, about 0.6 watts (I am not good at
doing this stuff in my head -- is this right)?"
==
I don't know what the FS reading of the W1 wattmeter is, but 5 watts +/-
0.5 db  would be 4.456 to 5.61 watts, or -0.544 and +0.61 watts.

73, de Earl
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Indoor antenna for KX1...

2006-10-14 Thread Tom McCulloch

Or make sure she thinks it was an accident...:)
Tom
wb2qdg
k2 1103

--
Daddy, why do they call it the "World Series" if its always played in the 
Bronx?




- Original Message - 
From: "Leigh L Klotz, Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "wayne burdick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Steve Banks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 12:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: Indoor antenna for KX1...


I tried this, holding the wire up with clear pushpins..  The wire fell down 
and my wife walked into it.  She accused me of trying to strangle her. 
Don't make my mistakemake sure it doesn't come down accidently.

Leigh/WA5ZNU
On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 3:07 pm, wayne burdick wrote:
Yup, that was me. I used #26 enamel wire to form a complete loop around 
the ceiling molding.

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[Elecraft] Accuracy of W1 wattmeter

2006-10-14 Thread Vic K2VCO
The new W1 wattmeter is spec'd to provide 0.5 db accuracy.  Is this 0.5 
db of full scale or of the actual reading?


If the former, then I figure that the reading at 5 watts would be plus 
or minus about 1.8 watts.  If the latter, about 0.6 watts (I am not good 
at doing this stuff in my head -- is this right)?

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] 80 m CW and Digital Operation: It's a new ballgame!

2006-10-14 Thread Bruce Prior
The FCC Report and Order 06-149 has thrown us a curve by extending the 
Amateur Extra Class phone band down to 3600 kHz (far more than the ARRL had 
requested), meaning that practical CW and digital operations, which have had 
lots of spectrum to play with on 80 m, will soon have to squeeze into the 
bottom 100 kHz of the 80 m band.  We have to live with this new reality.  We 
need to negotiate amongst ourselves so that our turf battles take place off 
the air before Report and Order 06-149 takes effect.  We need to develop a 
band plan which will serve all USA 80 m operators, and we need to start 
immediately.  The band plan must not actually exclude CW stations from 
operating anywhere from 3500 kHz to 4000 kHz.  For example, cross-mode 
communications between CW stations and stations operating in other modes 
must be recognized as legitimate.


Here are the major issues as I see them:

1)	On CW and digital contesting weekends, everywhere from 3500 kHz to 3600 
kHz will be dominated by USA contesters unless contest sponsors decide to 
limit 80 m operations by USA stations to a substantial, but limited, portion 
of that 100 kHz AND to enforce those limits by disqualifying USA contesters 
who stray outside of them.  Major contest sponsors like ARRL, CQ Amateur 
Radio, JARL, RSGB and RAC need to consult with one another immediately and 
come up with a common proposal.
2)	A CW DX window needs to be designated and respected by USA operators 
seven days a week, and most especially during contest weekends.
3)	CW nets whose schedules include weekend operation need to be protected 
from both CW and digital contesting.
4)	Digital net managers need to decide whether or not they want protection 
during digital contest weekends.  For example, PSK-31 operations typically 
center on 3580.15 kHz in the 80 m band.  Do the operators who manage PSK-31 
nets want to accommodate fixed-frequency stations?  If so, then they either 
will have to accept crowding during digital contest periods, or in effect 
exclude fixed-frequency PSK-31 stations from participating in those 
contests.  This proposal assumes that they will tolerate disruption of their 
nets during digital contest weekends.
5)	Specialized groups like QRPers and FISTS need calling frequencies.  They 
now occupy the vicinity of:

a.  QRP: 3560 kHz
b.  FISTS: 3528 kHz
Even though those frequencies are below 3600 kHz, I think it is important 
that those groups not insist on retaining those frequencies, but agree to be 
part of the negotiations which will produce a comprehensive 80 m CW band 
plan which will accommodate their interests.
6)	Many 80 m CW nets which now operate above 3600 kHz will have to relocate 
below the phone band.  Because of reduced total spectrum, some nets which 
currently operate below 3600 kHz will need to relocate as part of a new band 
plan.  Some Canadian and Latin American CW nets will also best be served by 
changing frequency.  I think that it will work much better if all CW nets in 
ITU/IARU Region 2 operate outside of the contesting and digital sub-bands.
7)	Digital operators are important users of the 3500 kHz to 3600 kHz segment 
of the 80 m band.  Since some digital operators will have little or no CW 
skills, and since few CW operators are able to decode digital transmissions 
while operating CW, digital and CW operations must be accommodated and be 
confined to specific portions of the band.  This is an especially important 
consideration when priority or emergency traffic is being passed on CW and 
digital traffic-net frequencies.


I think our first step is to think through how much spectrum is needed by 
the various groups.  Almost all 80 m operators currently using the 3500 kHz 
to 3600 kHz spectrum will need to prepare for a shift in operating 
frequencies.  Yes, that includes QRPers like me who will have to buy new 
crystals for rock-bound 80 m CW rigs!  Very likely my Rock-Mite 80, which 
now operates in the vicinity of 3560 kHz, will have to be modified to 
operate near a new QRP calling frequency.  Similarly, fixed-frequency 
digital transceivers may have to be modified.  We all need to ask for a 
piece of the pie without demanding that our piece will be the exact 
frequencies which we now habitually occupy.


In order to get the discussion going, let me offer a spectrum allocation 
proposal:


CW DX window:  5 kHz [protected from all contesting]
CW contesting:  60 kHz
Digital contesting:  40 kHz
Digital nets:  5 kHz [whether protected from digital contesting or not needs 
to be decided by digital net managers]

Digital ragchewing:  15 kHz
High-speed CW (say, 30 WPM and faster) ragchewing: 20 kHz
High-speed CW nets:  5 kHz [protected from all contesting]
Slow-to-medium-speed CW ragchewing: 60 kHz
Slow-to-medium-speed CW nets: 15 kHz [partially shared with specialized 
groups]
Specialized group operations like FISTS, QRP and perhaps County Hunters:  5 
kHz [shared with slow-to-medium-speed CW nets]


Obviously, that

[Elecraft] Items FS

2006-10-14 Thread Brent Sutphin

I have the following items for sale.

Elecraft XG-1 Receiver Test Oscillator.  Oscillator works FB and is in like 
new condition.  $39 shipped.


Rock Mite Audio Filter from KD1JV.  The filter is built but never used. 
Comes with instruction sheet.

$15 shipped.

If anyone is interested in these items please contact me off list.

Thanks
Brent  WB4X 


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Relay problem

2006-10-14 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
This is also just about a common interval since assembly for a missed solder
connection to show up producing an intermittent or open connection as
oxidation builds up on the unsoldered metal surfaces.

Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
Graham,

The fact that the relays did not cycle to reset with the control board
removed is not likely an indication of the problem.  If I recall, this
'feature' does not work since the KIO chip firmware was reworked to add 60
meters.  That is only a guess, but I too tried this step to reset the relays
in the near past and found it did not work.

You may want to try doing continuity checks through the relay coils from the
top of the U1 socket.  If all looks well there, the relay may be 'sluggish'.
Of course, it may be that there has been a bit of oxidation on the socket or
pins of U1 and simply removing and reseating U1 will correct that condition,
or it could be that there is a marginal solder connection on some path (that
is actually the most likely possibility).

All in all, try using the schematic and attempt continuity checks that
include the greatest possible number of soldered connections will go a long
way toward detecting marginal components and solder joints.  Many bad solder
connections seem to work fine until 6 month to a year after assembly and
then 'mysteriously' fail, do not overlook that possibility.  Component
failure does happen but it is rare.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> Gents,
>   I have a K2 Serial 5375 which has performed perfectly since 
> completion 5 months ago, unfortunately it has recently developed a 
> fault I need  some advice on. The fault which causes the rig to 
> function on 160m 30m &15m only is intermittent.I have found when the 
> fault is active that K13 remains in the reset state, I can usually 
> clear the fault by making several band changes or cycling the power a 
> few times which puts K13 in the proper state for the selected band. I 
> have checked all soldering around RF U1 & the relays to no avail. When 
> I removed the control board to reset the relays I found powering on 
> did not cycle the relays as per fault finding guide.I feel the problem 
> is probably U1 or k13 but would appreciate advice on isolating the 
> fault further.
>
>   Regards  Graham  G4cpd
>

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RE: [Elecraft] k2, freq readout calibration

2006-10-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bob,

While directly attaching a counter without a 10X probe can pull the
frequency of the measured circuit (and that can also happen with a 10X
probe), the beauty of comparing the resulting external counter frequency
count with the K2 internal frequency count is that it does not depend on the
exact frequency of the frequency source (in this case TP1).  Even if the
external counter (or the internal counter for that matter) does pull the
frequency at TP1, that frequency is not the parameter being adjusted - one
is adjusting the clocking frequency for the K2 internal counter, and if that
clock is set so both counters read the same, the internal counter will be
almost as accurate as the external counter (within the uncertainty range of
the last display digit).

I have also cautioned about attempting to measure the 4 MHz oscillator
directly - the indirect methods recommended are more accurate and less prone
to errors similar to those you mentioned.  It may also turn out that the
'real' frequency for the 4 MHz oscillator is a few Hz different from the
nominal frequency, but even if that is true, it is circumvented by measuring
the displayed frequency rather than the master clocking reference itself,
and any other hidden variables are also compensated out of the 'equation'.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> Hi Carel,
>
> Have a care connecting an extra frequency counter in parallel
> with the K2
> counter as the loading capacitance of some counters may pull the
> readings  off
> what they really are. The K2 frequency counter via the supplied
> probe gives
> relatively light loading on the circuits you are measuring. The
> extra frequency
> counter may not cause a problem in the case of TP1, but better
> to play safe
> and isolate the parallel frequency counter with a high  impedance probe.
>
> I fell into this trap when setting my K2 4MHz control board clock
>  oscillator
> with a Racal Dane counter. This has a ovened xtal clock, hence  retains a
> fair degree of accuracy from calibration. However the extra load
> capacitance of
> the frequency counter input undid all that and gave an  erroneous
> reading. A
> high impedance scope probe gave enough level to operate the
> frequency counter,
> yet still provided sufficient isolation not to affect the  K2.
>
> May not be causing problems in your case, but something to be aware  of.
>
> Regards,
> Bob, G3VVT
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[Elecraft] CCW

2006-10-14 Thread Joe Fowler
Has anybody done CCW with the k2?
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Relay problem

2006-10-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
Graham,

The fact that the relays did not cycle to reset with the control board
removed is not likely an indication of the problem.  If I recall, this
'feature' does not work since the KIO chip firmware was reworked to add 60
meters.  That is only a guess, but I too tried this step to reset the relays
in the near past and found it did not work.

You may want to try doing continuity checks through the relay coils from the
top of the U1 socket.  If all looks well there, the relay may be 'sluggish'.
Of course, it may be that there has been a bit of oxidation on the socket or
pins of U1 and simply removing and reseating U1 will correct that condition,
or it could be that there is a marginal solder connection on some path (that
is actually the most likely possibility).

All in all, try using the schematic and attempt continuity checks that
include the greatest possible number of soldered connections will go a long
way toward detecting marginal components and solder joints.  Many bad solder
connections seem to work fine until 6 month to a year after assembly and
then 'mysteriously' fail, do not overlook that possibility.  Component
failure does happen but it is rare.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> Gents,
>   I have a K2 Serial 5375 which has performed perfectly since
> completion 5 months ago, unfortunately it has recently developed a fault
> I need  some advice on. The fault which causes the rig to function on
> 160m 30m &15m only is intermittent.I have found when the fault is active
> that K13 remains in the reset state, I can usually clear the fault by
> making several band changes or cycling the power a few times
> which puts K13 in the proper state for the selected band.
> I have checked all soldering around RF U1 & the relays to no avail. When I
> removed the control board to reset the relays I found powering on did
> not cycle the relays as per fault finding guide.I feel the problem is
> probably U1 or k13 but would appreciate advice on isolating the
> fault further.
>
>   Regards  Graham  G4cpd
>

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[Elecraft] K2 Relay problem

2006-10-14 Thread graham knox
Gents,
  I have a K2 Serial 5375 which has performed perfectly since
completion 5 months ago, unfortunately it has recently developed a fault
I need  some advice on. The fault which causes the rig to function on
160m 30m &15m only is intermittent.I have found when the fault is active
that K13 remains in the reset state, I can usually clear the fault by
making several band changes or cycling the power a few times which puts K13 in 
the proper state for the selected band.
I have checked all soldering around RF U1 & the relays to no avail. When I
removed the control board to reset the relays I found powering on did
not cycle the relays as per fault finding guide.I feel the problem is
probably U1 or k13 but would appreciate advice on isolating the fault further.
  
  Regards  Graham  G4cpd


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RE: [Elecraft] k2, freq readout calibration

2006-10-14 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 14/10/06 09:01:37 GMT Daylight Time, pc5m, Carel"  
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
writes:

Verified  setting of C22 with both
methods (parallel freq counter on TP1 and  measuring the offset of TP1 and
TP2 with a 10MHz  signal).


---
 
Hi Carel,
 
Have a care connecting an extra frequency counter in parallel with the K2  
counter as the loading capacitance of some counters may pull the readings  off 
what they really are. The K2 frequency counter via the supplied probe gives  
relatively light loading on the circuits you are measuring. The extra frequency 
 
counter may not cause a problem in the case of TP1, but better  to play safe 
and isolate the parallel frequency counter with a high  impedance probe.
 
I fell into this trap when setting my K2 4MHz control board clock  oscillator 
with a Racal Dane counter. This has a ovened xtal clock, hence  retains a 
fair degree of accuracy from calibration. However the extra load  capacitance 
of 
the frequency counter input undid all that and gave an  erroneous reading. A 
high impedance scope probe gave enough level to operate the  frequency counter, 
yet still provided sufficient isolation not to affect the  K2.
 
May not be causing problems in your case, but something to be aware  of.
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT
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[Elecraft] K2 and SoftRock40

2006-10-14 Thread David Cutter
The facilities available to SoftRockers are quite astonishing and will quite 
literally revolutionise our radio experience and you can use practically any 
radio.  I've read that an FT1000 is being adapted using  a SoftRock 40 with new 
xtal.  VK6VZ is spear-heading this fabulous idea.  I shall be attempting to do 
the same on my K2.  Has anyone done this?  

There looks to be enough room inside the K2 to fit the SoftRock 40, but I think 
a shielded box would be good, so that will need some engineering.  Initially it 
will be prudent to put the unit outside.  

David
G3UNA 
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