Re: RE: [Elecraft] W1 idea
Good evening and thanks for the reply. I have already built the AT1, so the K1 would work (My K2 is under construction at the present). I have an old MFJ259 (no vector info, just SWR and impedance), but had in mind a small unit for very coarse antenna checks in the field, camping, etc. The mfj unit is bigger than the K1. I have been playing with AmQRP's PICeL kits and had DDS on the brain. Itching to build something that uses one (Iknow,Iknow, a KX1 ) -Pete > > From: "Siu Johnny" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 2006/12/12 Tue PM 06:59:26 CST > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: RE: [Elecraft] W1 idea > > > Hi Pete, > > K2 is a QRP rig and can deliver output power at around 0.5 watt. Itself > has already been a nice RF signal generator. Turn your K2 power knot fully > counterclockwise. Press and hold 'tune' and read the SWR on the W1 over > the tuning range. Due to the lower power output from K2, interference to > other Ham stations is minimal. > > Unlike the LP100, W1 is not a vector watt meter. It can only give you > reading of SWR and Power. > > In the past, I have several times in this reflector mentioned that a > transcevier with TCXO or stable frequency output has already been a very > good RF source. The trick is to use a good RF attenuator or directional > coupler to lower the output level. Now AT1, CP1 could be choices. > > I finish the construction of AT1 which is a piece of cake. Unlike the > usual attenuator obtained from the market, AT1 can tolerate 2 watts RF > power. If you combine K2 with AT1, the whole will be a nice RF signal > source. Of course, don't forget to turn the RF power knot fully > counterclockwise. > > > > 73 > > Johnny Siu VR2XMC > > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Subject: [Elecraft] W1 idea > Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 11:33:50 -0600 > > It would seem like you could combine the W1 with a small DDS based sig gen > for a very compact basic antenna analyzer. Is it sensitive enough on the > lowest scale to do that? > Just thinkin > -Pete > > Pete Axson > WD4LST > 17901 NE 18th Ave > Citra, FL 32113 > > _ > ?? Live Messenger; > http://get.live.com/messenger/overview > > Pete Axson WD4LST 17901 NE 18th Ave Citra, FL 32113 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Remoting the T1: enclosures?
Well, here's what I came up with. I saw the NEMA boxes but they seemed like overkill in size, cost, and convenience, so I went to the kitchenware aisle at Target and found a nice tupperware-like container called Snapware. It's billed as airtight, leakproof, freezer, fridge, and microwave safe. It's clear plastic, about 5" x 7.5" x 2" with a nice snap-on lid. Just the right size to hold the T1 and its balun. So I drilled the container for connectors, mounted it on the top end of my PVC pipe, and I'm giving it a whirl. Its location outside is in perpetual shade, so UV shouldn't be a big issue. It's just a matter of how well it keeps out moisture. And, since the climate here in Colorado Springs is pretty dry, I'm thinking it'll do okay. 73 de Dave NK0E David Ek wrote: > Gang, > > I've been trying out an antenna arrangement at my QTH that uses a design based on the IK-STIC 2: > > http://hometown.aol.com/realhamradio2/W2IK-ANTENNA.html > > My particular version of the IK-STIC 2 eliminates the telescoping fibergass pole in favor of a simple wire supported at the peak of my roof. The whole works has been placed near the side of my house, somewhat concealed from the street and neighbors. > > The antenna is fed with almost 100 ft of coax and has an Elecraft T1 tuner and BL-1 balun at the feedpoint. I control the T1 using a switch in my shack that's connected to the T1's jack using almost 100 ft of RG-174. > > The whole arrangement seems to work FB for my purposes, and I'm working to make the whole installation durable enough to stand up to the elements. > > Have any of you remoted your T1? How have you enclosed it or otherwise protected it from the weather? I've been looking around for a suitable enclosure but nothing I've seen has really grabbed me thus far. > > 73 de Dave NK0E > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] W1 idea
Hi Pete, K2 is a QRP rig and can deliver output power at around 0.5 watt. Itself has already been a nice RF signal generator. Turn your K2 power knot fully counterclockwise. Press and hold 'tune' and read the SWR on the W1 over the tuning range. Due to the lower power output from K2, interference to other Ham stations is minimal. Unlike the LP100, W1 is not a vector watt meter. It can only give you reading of SWR and Power. In the past, I have several times in this reflector mentioned that a transcevier with TCXO or stable frequency output has already been a very good RF source. The trick is to use a good RF attenuator or directional coupler to lower the output level. Now AT1, CP1 could be choices. I finish the construction of AT1 which is a piece of cake. Unlike the usual attenuator obtained from the market, AT1 can tolerate 2 watts RF power. If you combine K2 with AT1, the whole will be a nice RF signal source. Of course, don't forget to turn the RF power knot fully counterclockwise. 73 Johnny Siu VR2XMC From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: [Elecraft] W1 idea Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 11:33:50 -0600 It would seem like you could combine the W1 with a small DDS based sig gen for a very compact basic antenna analyzer. Is it sensitive enough on the lowest scale to do that? Just thinkin -Pete Pete Axson WD4LST 17901 NE 18th Ave Citra, FL 32113 _ 与联机的朋友进行交流，请使用 Live Messenger; http://get.live.com/messenger/overview ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] W1 idea
It would seem like you could combine the W1 with a small DDS based sig gen for a very compact basic antenna analyzer. Is it sensitive enough on the lowest scale to do that? Just thinkin -Pete Pete Axson WD4LST 17901 NE 18th Ave Citra, FL 32113 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT100 Question - Thank You
Don (W3FPR), Tom (N0SS), Don (N4HH), Gregg(W9DHI), Thanks for the reply about constructing the special "Y" cable and information that the signals are separate and will not conflict. Looks like Santa will be visiting the Elecraft store. Mark, KJ7BS Glendale, AZ > -Original Message- > > I read where the KAT100 requires the KIO2 module to control the > auto tuner, which I have. How do I connect the KAT100 to the K2 > and still use the KIO2 for rig control? > -- > Mark, KJ7BS > Glendale, AZ > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KAT100 Question
Mark, You construct a Y cable. Instructions are in the KAT100 manual. The signals used are not the same so there are no conflicts. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I read where the KAT100 requires the KIO2 module to control the > auto tuner, which I have. How do I connect the KAT100 to the K2 > and still use the KIO2 for rig control? > -- > Mark, KJ7BS > Glendale, AZ > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.15/581 - Release Date: 12/9/2006 3:41 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT100 Question
I read where the KAT100 requires the KIO2 module to control the auto tuner, which I have. How do I connect the KAT100 to the K2 and still use the KIO2 for rig control? -- Mark, KJ7BS Glendale, AZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
