[Elecraft] Want-To-Borrow; Book - Understanding, Building, and Using Baluns and Ununs
Does anyone have this book that I can borrow? Mark, KJ7BS Glendale, AZ Editor, The SKCC Centurion K2 # 0539 FISTS # 2972 cc 1806 SKCC # 2240 C56 ARCI # 12647 AZ ScQRPion ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] More about Elecraft growth
I second the motion! Mark AD5SS On 3/3/07, Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I move that Don be exempted from aging and any ill health effects for as long as he shall be needed on the Elecraft reflector. Any seconders? :-) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Zero beating
Don, Zero beating does not involve hearing down to zero cycles. It is matching two tones, whatever their frequency, until; the beating phenomenon, which is not a sound comprised of frequencies lower than the audio passband of the receiver or below the lower limit of human hearing, stops. As you know, it is more of a whooping sound. It is clearly within the audio passband of most radios. I used to use my K2 listening to WWV with Spectrogram as a frequency reference. I recently built two NorCal FCC1/2 DDS VFO's. If I had used the K2/Spectrogram to calibrate them, they would have been accurate to within a few Hz, as you say. By using my Japan Radio listening to WWV in AM mode (no Spectrogram needed!), it was easy to hear the VFO beating against WWV's carrier. Without being zero beat, it is possible to count the beats per seconds if you know how to tune a piano. You can tell how may cycles it's off. But anyone can easily hear when the beating process stops, and then the *maximum* error the VFO readout displays is 1 Hz. I have found it very hard to get this kind of accuracy using Spectrogram. Regards, Andy W9NJY K2 KX1 --- Message: 16 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2007 20:54:29 -0500 From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Frequency counters for Alignment To: "Ken Kopp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'Elecraft Discussion List'" Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Ken and all, What you say is true - but you can detect the transmitted tones sent by WWV with great accuracy. See http://tf.nist.gov/stations/iform.html#stdf for innformation about what tones are transmitted at what times. With the audio of a SSB receiver fed into the computer soundcard, and the computer running a program like Spectrogram, one can align the received tones with properly set Spectrogram markers and when the transmitted tones line up with the received tones, you can be certain that WWV is tuned precisely. This is actually more accurate than trying to listen for the carrier at zero frequency - neither the receiver audio nor the human ear can respond to zero frequency, and attempt to do so may be off by +/-30 Hz or more - detecting the tones with a graphic display will allow you to tune within a few Hz. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 SSB power control
Thanks for the reply Don, much appreciated. Just to clarify, I built up the amp last year but never got around to installing it. So around December 06 I obtained the upgrade kit and installed that as well and that's how things stand at the moment. However your reply and mention of the new C31 had me looking around the Elecraft site and I see that there is an errata dated 4 December 06 which stresses the importance of changing R19 & R20 even though the correct values may already be installed - needless to say when I did the upgrade I followed the original instructions which basically says (on page 4) if the correct value components are already installed go to the next section. So, the upshot is, that I need to strip down the amp, replace R19 & 20 with the low inductance type, check the other components in accordance with the latest errata and install a new C31. At which point I should be in a position to check out the amp properly. 73 to all Trevor G0KTN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K60XV -> ALC closed loop?
Dave, That reference to a closed loop ALC with the K60XV applies only to the low power transverter outputs of the K60XV. It will not modify the ALC action for the normal HF outputs. Your lack of power control on 40 meter SSB is quite another matter. It could possibly be an oscillation occurring near 40 meters. The KPA100UPKT upgrade was developed because of an oscillation that could occur at 40 meters, so you may want to consider adding that upgrade as a first course of action. You could have a problem with the ALC on the KSB2 board, but I would think it would show up on other bands if that were the source of your strange behavior. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Hello all. > > On the first page of the K60XV manual says: "... The K60XV's low-level > output is nominally 0 dBm (1 milliwatt), adjustable using the K2's POWER > control. More importantly, the K60XV provides full closed-loop ALC that > works in both SSB and CW modes. ..." > > Does this mean that the ALC will regulate the K2's power output more > accurately? At the moment on my K2 will run 100w on SSB regardless of > my PO Setting. I have to be in ALC to be able to reduce the power. > This only occurs only on the 40mx band - all other bands the power > control on SSB is fine. > > Cheers, > > Dave > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.6/709 - Release Date: 3/3/2007 8:12 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 SSB power control
Trevor, If your R19 and R20 resistors have a reddish/brown body, you can leave them in place - those are the good ones. The potentially bad ones are the light blue bodied resistors, and not all of those are inductive, but it is easier to just call for replacing them than to explain which ones might be bad. Inductive resistors were shipped with KPA100s and upgrade kits during the summer of 2006 - the resistor vendor changed to an inductive design without notifying Elecraft. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Thanks for the reply Don, much appreciated. > > Just to clarify, I built up the amp last year but never got > around to installing it. So > around December 06 I obtained the upgrade kit and installed that > as well and that's > how things stand at the moment. > > However your reply and mention of the new C31 had me looking around the > Elecraft site and I see that there is an errata dated 4 December > 06 which stresses > the importance of changing R19 & R20 even though the correct > values may already > be installed - needless to say when I did the upgrade I followed > the original > instructions which basically says (on page 4) if the correct > value components are > already installed go to the next section. > > So, the upshot is, that I need to strip down the amp, replace R19 > & 20 with the low > inductance type, check the other components in accordance with > the latest errata > and install a new C31. At which point I should be in a position > to check out the amp > properly. > > 73 to all > Trevor G0KTN > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.6/709 - Release Date: > 3/3/2007 8:12 AM > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.6/709 - Release Date: 3/3/2007 8:12 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: SSB Power control and KPA100
Thanks for the feedback Bill, and to Gary for the solution. Jack's measurements were done on a very recent K2/100, so his rig may already have the mod. If so, the SSB picture on my website would be the "fixed" version. The overshoot on that picture is not excessive. All rigs exhibit a little bit of this I'm sure. Larry N8LP William Shappley wrote: Trevor - I also saw this problem. I first saw it while checking out my new KPA-100 on my Bird wattmeter - the Bird would see the overshoot even when not in peak hold mode. I also have an LP-100, which indicated the overshoot, but in my case it was not related to the LP-100s fast response. Even the old slow Bird saw it. My solution came from Steve Kavanagh, and he got it from Gary Surrency at Elecraft. Here is a snip of the thread: -SNIP- Thanks to advice from M0DHO, LA3ZA and Gary Surrency at Elecraft the problem described in http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-12/msg00408.html is now solved, or nearly so. I still see a big jump in SSB power between 10 and 11 watt settings, but the power output is always under control (no power supply buzzing and RF metering does not read 100 W peaks when set for 11 W, for example). No obvious signs of splatter or distortion any more. I put a 1k resistor in series with the base of Q1 in the KSB2 and put 3.3k in parallel with R9. It's pretty fiddly work on this compact board, but doable. This is in the middle of the range for R9 suggested by Gary Surrency. Probably I should go for the low end of the suggested range (even more aggressive ALC). 73, Steve VE3SMA - SNIP - In my case, I used the 1K and 3.3K values suggested, and it fixed the problem. Mine was also much worse on 40M than anywhere else. Of course, the usual advice of checking everything in the ALC circuit for bad solder or the wrong components still applies. I had already gone that route without results when Steve updated me. Note that the information originally came from Gary Surrency at Elecraft. I hope this helps. 73, Bill K4DXU Trevor Smithers wrote: I have just installed a recently constructed KPA100 (including the latest upgrades) and appear to have run into the erratic power control problem. Using Tune + Display and an external LP100 meter, if I request 5w I get 5w out. Increasing power to 11w so as to engage the pa I also get 11w out - so all seems fine. Switching to SSB, and speaking steadily into the mic, at a requested 5w I get approximately 5-7w out on each band. However increasing the power to 11w I get the following: 80m Req 11 Get 45 40m Req 11 Get 80 20m Req 11 Get 25 15m Req 11 Get 30 10m Req 11 Get 20 Reading back through the archive I see that others have encountered the same problem but cannot see a definitive answer to the problem. Anyone have any thoughts as to where to start looking. 73 to all Trevor G0KTN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100-1
Good Morning Group, I think I may purchase the 100 watt hat and the KAT100-1 ATU in the near future. I have three questions. 1. I hear talk of Y connectors, etc. Will my two new kits contain all the bits to hook up to my K2? 2. Does my existing ATU stay in the circuit? 3. Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to or beneith the K2? - can I place it - say a foot away? OK, 3 and a half questions. Thanks, es 72 (for now) Tom, kj3d ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1
#1no Y connectors and you will have everything to hook up the 2 kits except for the Coaxial Cable to go from the K2 to the KAT100. #2...No the existing ATU gets removed. #3..You can place it almost anywhere in your shack...1 foot, 10 foot away. You will have to make a control cable longer than the one described in the manual for the tuner. In that case you will probably have to supply your own wire depending on the distance you want to remote it. Gregg W9DHI -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KJ3D Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 8:04 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100-1 Good Morning Group, I think I may purchase the 100 watt hat and the KAT100-1 ATU in the near future. I have three questions. 1. I hear talk of Y connectors, etc. Will my two new kits contain all the bits to hook up to my K2? 2. Does my existing ATU stay in the circuit? 3. Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to or beneith the K2? - can I place it - say a foot away? OK, 3 and a half questions. Thanks, es 72 (for now) Tom, kj3d ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1
Tom, You existing KAT2 (and everything else in the QRP K2 top cover) is removed and the KPA100 installs in place of it. There is another option available to you - if you want to retain the QRP K2 for portable use, then mount the KAT100-2 and the KPA100 together in an external EC2 enclosure. That configuration does require the KIO2 in your QRP K2, but it works well. If you choose this configuration, your KAT2 stays in place but is automatically bypassed with the output routed to the ANT1 connector. If you want the KPA100 mounted on the K2 instead of externally, order the KAT100-1 (the lower height enclosure is included). The KAT100 can be located anywhere in the shack that your cable length to it will allow. The kit includes all cables and connectors except the coax to the KAT100. You need a control cable between the K2 and the KAT100, and that same cable will become a 'Y' cable if you also wire the connector at the K2 end with the cable for attaching to a computer serial port (that wire is included too). 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Good Morning Group, > > I think I may purchase the 100 watt hat and the KAT100-1 ATU in the near > future. I have three questions. > > 1. I hear talk of Y connectors, etc. Will my two new kits > contain all the > bits to hook up to my K2? > > 2. Does my existing ATU stay in the circuit? > > 3. Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to or beneith the > K2? - can I place it - say a foot away? > > OK, 3 and a half questions. > > Thanks, es 72 (for now) > > Tom, kj3d > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.6/709 - Release Date: 3/3/2007 8:12 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1
Don, John & Gregg, Thanks for taking the time to respond. I think I will put the new stuff in a EC2 enclosure and leave the QRP K2 alone - particularily since I already have the KIO2 installed. Seems that might eliminate some of the heating isues as well. 72/73, Tom, kj3d -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 9:36 AM To: KJ3D; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1 Tom, You existing KAT2 (and everything else in the QRP K2 top cover) is removed and the KPA100 installs in place of it. There is another option available to you - if you want to retain the QRP K2 for portable use, then mount the KAT100-2 and the KPA100 together in an external EC2 enclosure. That configuration does require the KIO2 in your QRP K2, but it works well. If you choose this configuration, your KAT2 stays in place but is automatically bypassed with the output routed to the ANT1 connector. If you want the KPA100 mounted on the K2 instead of externally, order the KAT100-1 (the lower height enclosure is included). The KAT100 can be located anywhere in the shack that your cable length to it will allow. The kit includes all cables and connectors except the coax to the KAT100. You need a control cable between the K2 and the KAT100, and that same cable will become a 'Y' cable if you also wire the connector at the K2 end with the cable for attaching to a computer serial port (that wire is included too). 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Good Morning Group, > > I think I may purchase the 100 watt hat and the KAT100-1 ATU in the > near future. I have three questions. > > 1. I hear talk of Y connectors, etc. Will my two new kits contain > all the bits to hook up to my K2? > > 2. Does my existing ATU stay in the circuit? > > 3. Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to or beneith > the K2? - can I place it - say a foot away? > > OK, 3 and a half questions. > > Thanks, es 72 (for now) > > Tom, kj3d > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.6/709 - Release Date: 3/3/2007 8:12 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Vertical antennas
> As I'm sure you know, you can tell when the vertical antenna is performing better; the SWR goes up. A lossy vertical will have a low SWR because the high ground losses are in series with the radiation resistance and the sum comes out perversely close to 50 Ohms. A low loss vertical is around 30 Ohms. Not exactly. It more be more accurate to say that "you can tell when a short vertical (or otherwise loaded) antenna is performing better because the low-SWR bandwidth (e.g., the range over which the SWR is less than 2:1) decreases." Yes, I'm nit-picking here, but I think it's important to be clear on this. With proper loading and matching, pretty much any usable antenna can have 1:1 SWR on one specific frequency. But short antennas have narrow usable bandwidth unless they are very inefficient. >> That's why a horizontal dipole is usually preferred to a vertical if there's sufficient space >> to erect it. That's the gotcha. If you have a horizontal dipole at the same height as the top of a vertical dipole, in the broadside direction the horizontal wins hands down, provided you have two supports high enough to support the dipole. The current loop of the horizontal is twice as high as the current loop of the vertical. And, of course, those lucky Hams who can put their horizontal dipole up about 1/2 wavelength where it works best get a huge advantage. At 20 degrees it shows nearly 6 dB gain: equivalent to multiplying the transmitter power by four times! I work mostly "local" North American stations on 20 and below, but once the 'spots come back I'll see what DX I can do on 10. 10 is about the only band where my yard can realistically handle the otherwise-mythical "half-wave dipole half a wavelength high". My G5RV and 20 meter Moxon are both up about 15 feet. It's difficult to give meaningful figure for G5RV height, partly because it slopes down somewhat like an inverted-vee at both ends, but mostly because the yard itself is not level and there is a sharp discontinuity more or less under the feedpoint. I think that there hasn't been enough discussion (in general, not specifically on the Elecraft list) on the benefits of low beams over low simple antennas. Too many articles on beams start out with the assumption that you can put them up a 1/2 wavelength high. Given the increasing urbanization of America and the trend toward smaller yards, fewer and few hams are going to be able to do this in the future. If they really want record breaking contest results, they should use a rare DX call, a seaside location and female operators on SSB. The female voice seems to give you the same effect as another 6 dB in transmitting power. We have a "go for blood" contesting group here in Maine that deliberately schedules as many female operators as possible on Field Day to run up their score; it really works. Of course this requires YLs who do not mind insects and outdoor plumbing, and those are few and far between. Perhaps I should try that some time. Since I work almost all digital modes and CW rather than SSB, I don't get any advantage. :-) Cathy N5WVR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1
That's an excellent way to go, I did this for a friend and he loves it. Only one thing you have to remember, when you use it as a QRO station it automatically shuts off and bypasses the internal tuner, when you unplug everything and go portable with it you must remember to turn the tuner back on in the menu. That's the only thing you have to remember. Good Luck, Gregg -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KJ3D Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 9:25 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1 Don, John & Gregg, Thanks for taking the time to respond. I think I will put the new stuff in a EC2 enclosure and leave the QRP K2 alone - particularily since I already have the KIO2 installed. Seems that might eliminate some of the heating isues as well. 72/73, Tom, kj3d -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 9:36 AM To: KJ3D; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1 Tom, You existing KAT2 (and everything else in the QRP K2 top cover) is removed and the KPA100 installs in place of it. There is another option available to you - if you want to retain the QRP K2 for portable use, then mount the KAT100-2 and the KPA100 together in an external EC2 enclosure. That configuration does require the KIO2 in your QRP K2, but it works well. If you choose this configuration, your KAT2 stays in place but is automatically bypassed with the output routed to the ANT1 connector. If you want the KPA100 mounted on the K2 instead of externally, order the KAT100-1 (the lower height enclosure is included). The KAT100 can be located anywhere in the shack that your cable length to it will allow. The kit includes all cables and connectors except the coax to the KAT100. You need a control cable between the K2 and the KAT100, and that same cable will become a 'Y' cable if you also wire the connector at the K2 end with the cable for attaching to a computer serial port (that wire is included too). 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Good Morning Group, > > I think I may purchase the 100 watt hat and the KAT100-1 ATU in the > near future. I have three questions. > > 1. I hear talk of Y connectors, etc. Will my two new kits contain > all the bits to hook up to my K2? > > 2. Does my existing ATU stay in the circuit? > > 3. Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to or beneith > the K2? - can I place it - say a foot away? > > OK, 3 and a half questions. > > Thanks, es 72 (for now) > > Tom, kj3d > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.6/709 - Release Date: 3/3/2007 8:12 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1
"Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to ..." 25 feet is the limit on the control cable from a discussion with Scott. Please verify or email support. Don't pick lemons. See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos. http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Really OT Ham Radio
Every time I try this I get an error message. Any thoughts? Chris G3SJJ http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2943570522939177086&hl=en ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1
You do *not* need to remove anything from your existing K2 cover. The KIO2, ATU and the battery (if installed) can stay right there. What Don was saying is that you get a NEW top cover in which the KPA100 is built and it mounts in place of the current top cover. So you can change from a K2/100 to a low-power K2 with built in ATU, battery and KIO2 in less than a minute for going into the field! BTW, the KPA100 includes the KIO2 so you do not lose that interface when adding the KPA100. That's the way Elecraft designed the system and it makes for a neat, efficient and compact rig. If you want to run QRP, you can disable the KPA100 with a simple MENU command or just turn down the POWER knob. If you want to use a low-current power supply and ensure the KPA100 doesn't get switched on, just plug it into the coaxial power connector you are now using instead of the Anderson PowerPole connector on the KPA100. That isolates the KPA100 so it can't draw power (the total drain on the K2 does go up a couple of hundred mA for some ancillary circuits in the KPA100 that get power from the main K2 supply, but the amplifier cannot switch on and draw current without 13 VDC at the Anderson connector). As others noted, some have moved the KPA100 into a separate enclosure anyway. I haven't played with that configuration, but it sounds like you'll need to disconnect the KIO2 interface and switch your computer over to the KPA100's connector anyway. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KJ3D Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 7:25 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1 Don, John & Gregg, Thanks for taking the time to respond. I think I will put the new stuff in a EC2 enclosure and leave the QRP K2 alone - particularily since I already have the KIO2 installed. Seems that might eliminate some of the heating isues as well. 72/73, Tom, kj3d -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 9:36 AM To: KJ3D; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1 Tom, You existing KAT2 (and everything else in the QRP K2 top cover) is removed and the KPA100 installs in place of it. There is another option available to you - if you want to retain the QRP K2 for portable use, then mount the KAT100-2 and the KPA100 together in an external EC2 enclosure. That configuration does require the KIO2 in your QRP K2, but it works well. If you choose this configuration, your KAT2 stays in place but is automatically bypassed with the output routed to the ANT1 connector. If you want the KPA100 mounted on the K2 instead of externally, order the KAT100-1 (the lower height enclosure is included). The KAT100 can be located anywhere in the shack that your cable length to it will allow. The kit includes all cables and connectors except the coax to the KAT100. You need a control cable between the K2 and the KAT100, and that same cable will become a 'Y' cable if you also wire the connector at the K2 end with the cable for attaching to a computer serial port (that wire is included too). 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Good Morning Group, > > I think I may purchase the 100 watt hat and the KAT100-1 ATU in the > near future. I have three questions. > > 1. I hear talk of Y connectors, etc. Will my two new kits contain > all the bits to hook up to my K2? > > 2. Does my existing ATU stay in the circuit? > > 3. Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to or beneith > the K2? - can I place it - say a foot away? > > OK, 3 and a half questions. > > Thanks, es 72 (for now) > > Tom, kj3d > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.6/709 - Release Date: 3/3/2007 8:12 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] My Faithful K2/100 has died!
My K2/100 appears to have died in a manner of speaking. It was working perfectly up until recently. Last weekend I decided to use it. When I turned it on, the display showed the Elecraft test and then 7.167 L. That was it! There is no response to any of the buttons. The frequency cannot be changed. There is no bar graph display and no signals. It does communicate with the computer in the sense that the VFO frequency is displayed in my Log EQ program. But that is it. Preliminary reference to the trouble shooting guide suggests there may be a problem involving U6 the big chip on the control board. But I'm not at all sure where to begin. Someone suggested I might try a reset first. I sure would appreciate any suggestions as to how to start tracking down the problem. The unit has a serial number of just over 3000. It has been only lightly used and has not been abused. So what happened is a mystery to me. Thanks for any help and suggestions. Bruce - W8FU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 question
Hello everyone, We are advised to re-tighten the screws that fasten the output transistors to the heat sink on the KPA100 after 10 to 12 hours of operation. Does that mean 10 to 12 hours with the radio powered on? Or does it mean 10 to 12 hours of transmitting time? Thanks and 73, John, W2GW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: KPA100 question
The latter, John. 73, Wayne N6KR On Mar 4, 2007, at 10:36 AM, John Reiser wrote: Hello everyone, We are advised to re-tighten the screws that fasten the output transistors to the heat sink on the KPA100 after 10 to 12 hours of operation. Does that mean 10 to 12 hours with the radio powered on? Or does it mean 10 to 12 hours of transmitting time? --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KDSP2, defaults to on
Hey Friends, I'm wondering if there's a hidden switch somewhere that would allow the KDSP2 to power-on in bypass (or off) mode? The manual says: "On power up, the KDSP2 will default to the first filter for each mode. It will retain the current filter for each mode until power is again cycled." I find myself always bypassing the KDSP2 as soon as I power up the K2, I'd much prefer to be able to enable it when needed rather than having it there by default. I don't expect there is, but in the off chance, I thought I'd ask. Thanks! Jeff N6GQ K2/100 #5945 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1
Ron and all, Since you have not used the KPA100 mounted externally Ron, you likely did not know - when the KPA100 is used externally to the K2, the cable to the computer must come off the KIO2 (TXD and RXD are sent from the K2 microprocessor and those signals are not included in the KIO2 to KPA100 connection) - the KIO2 to KPA100 connection uses only 4 signals - AUXBUS, 12CTRL, VRFDET, and 8R. In other words, the computer side of the 'Y' cable must connect to the K2 enclosure in all cases. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > As others noted, some have moved the KPA100 into a separate enclosure > anyway. I haven't played with that configuration, but it sounds > like you'll > need to disconnect the KIO2 interface and switch your computer over to the > KPA100's connector anyway. > > Ron AC7AC > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.7/710 - Release Date: 3/4/2007 1:58 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] My Faithful K2/100 has died!
Bruce, That is a result you would observe if the K2 were locked in transmit. Check to see if you have a problem with the PTT input or the paddle DOT input first. If you don't find anything obvious, let us know and we can likely provide some other checks (but you will have to do some measurements for us. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > My K2/100 appears to have died in a manner of speaking. It was working > perfectly up until recently. Last weekend I decided to use it. When I > turned it on, the display showed the Elecraft test and then 7.167 L. > That was it! There is no response to any of the buttons. The frequency > cannot be changed. There is no bar graph display and no signals. It > does communicate with the computer in the sense that the VFO frequency > is displayed in my Log EQ program. But that is it. > > > > Preliminary reference to the trouble shooting guide suggests there may > be a problem involving U6 the big chip on the control board. But I'm > not at all sure where to begin. Someone suggested I might try a reset > first. > > > > I sure would appreciate any suggestions as to how to start tracking down > the problem. The unit has a serial number of just over 3000. It has > been only lightly used and has not been abused. So what happened is a > mystery to me. > > > > Thanks for any help and suggestions. > > > > Bruce - W8FU -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.7/710 - Release Date: 3/4/2007 1:58 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100-1 - Redux
Additional thanks to Ron, David and Jesse, Since I don't anticipate portable ops, I now think I will just install the KPA100 in the main box. Again, thanks to all for clearing up some confusion on my part. 73, Tom,kj3d -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KJ3D Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 10:25 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1 Don, John & Gregg, Thanks for taking the time to respond. I think I will put the new stuff in a EC2 enclosure and leave the QRP K2 alone - particularily since I already have the KIO2 installed. Seems that might eliminate some of the heating isues as well. 72/73, Tom, kj3d -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 9:36 AM To: KJ3D; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1 Tom, You existing KAT2 (and everything else in the QRP K2 top cover) is removed and the KPA100 installs in place of it. There is another option available to you - if you want to retain the QRP K2 for portable use, then mount the KAT100-2 and the KPA100 together in an external EC2 enclosure. That configuration does require the KIO2 in your QRP K2, but it works well. If you choose this configuration, your KAT2 stays in place but is automatically bypassed with the output routed to the ANT1 connector. If you want the KPA100 mounted on the K2 instead of externally, order the KAT100-1 (the lower height enclosure is included). The KAT100 can be located anywhere in the shack that your cable length to it will allow. The kit includes all cables and connectors except the coax to the KAT100. You need a control cable between the K2 and the KAT100, and that same cable will become a 'Y' cable if you also wire the connector at the K2 end with the cable for attaching to a computer serial port (that wire is included too). 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Good Morning Group, > > I think I may purchase the 100 watt hat and the KAT100-1 ATU in the > near future. I have three questions. > > 1. I hear talk of Y connectors, etc. Will my two new kits contain > all the bits to hook up to my K2? > > 2. Does my existing ATU stay in the circuit? > > 3. Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to or beneith > the K2? - can I place it - say a foot away? > > OK, 3 and a half questions. > > Thanks, es 72 (for now) > > Tom, kj3d > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.6/709 - Release Date: 3/3/2007 8:12 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Adding KPA100 to an old K2 (#2592)
What firmware upgrades are needed to add a KPA100 to a K2 (#2592, Rev A)? Current firmware version is 2.01H 1.02 (as shown in the display on power up). I have purchased (in addition to the KPA100) to bring the K2 up to Rev B: K2ATOBKT (K2 rev A to B upgrade parts) BFOMDKT (K2 BFO & PLL upgrade) E850138 (K2 temperature compensated PLL upgrade) XFILMDKIT (2nd filter upgrade for the K2) The last one is not necessary, I know. Upon reading the KPA100 manual, it appears that I need to purchase new firmware (K2FWMCIO $44) to make the upgrade work. It seems to me when the KPA100 first came out, this firmware was part of the kit. What happened? I have an KSB2 (ssb upgrade, Rev D board, 1.04 firmware). Does this also need an upgrade? (FWSSB, $29) I noticed that there is firmware for the K2 tuner (KAT2, $29). Is this necessary also? Paul AD5IW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] AGC Measurements
I preparation to install Dave White, VE6DRW's AGC modification, I thought that I would perform some measurements on my K2's AGC to get a baseline to measure changes once the mod is made. The results surprised me. First off my K2 is serial # 5093, has the 160 Meter, SSB, noise blanker, and KAF2 audio filter modules installed and has no modifications. For measurements, a DL1 dummy load was connected to antenna connector. The mode was set to CW, the SSB filter OP1 selected, the attenuator switched on, AF and RF gain set to maximum, and the frequency set to 28.002 MHz. My 8V line measures 8.27 volts. With the AGC threshold voltage set at 3.80 volts, the AF output averaged 11.9 mV with the AGC on and 13.4 mV with the AGC off. A difference of 1.5 mV or 1.0 dB. Regardless of where I set the AGC threshold voltage via R1, the K2 always has more gain with the AGC off than with the AGC on. The lower the AGC threshold voltage the less the difference between AGC off and on. In accordance with the MC1350 datasheet, to find the maximum gain of the MC1350, I grounded pin 5 of the MC1350 via R4 on the Control Board. I lifted the end of R4 on the U2 side and attached a ground. The gain increased slightly. With the AGC on the AF output averaged 12.9 mV about 1 mV higher (0.7 dB) than with the normal AGC circuit. What was interesting was that with the AGC off, the AF output averaged 13.9 mV, about 1 mV higher (0.6 dB) than with the AGC on. With the AGC off the gain of the K2 was about 0.3 dB higher. With the output of U2A pin 1 disconnected at R4, I would have expected no difference with the AGC switched on or off. My guess is that the AGC mixer U1 (SA612) is loading down the IF OUT lead connected to pin 8 of the MC1350 which is reducing the level of the IF signal sent to the product detector. My AGC circuit is slightly different than most. To get the AGC to work, Elecraft had me change C8 from 39 pF to 10 pF. I wonder if that may have anything to do with the difference in receiver gain between AGC on and off. Next I connected the 8 volt rail to one end of a 20 Kohm trimmer and the other end to ground. The wiper was then connected to the lifted side of R4. The trimmer was adjusted to find the AGC voltages where gain of the MC1350 was maximum and minimum. The maximum gain occurred at 3.25 volts or less and the minimum gain at 4.45 volts or higher. This is a range of 1.2 volts for full swing of the AGC action of the MC1350. Resistor R4 was reinstalled and R1 set to 3.80 volts. The AGC voltage at U2A pin 1 was measured throughout the range of the RF gain control. At maximum gain it measured 3.80 volts and at minimum 4.84 volts. A range of 1.04 volts and a high enough voltage to ensure that the MC1350 would reach minimum gain. With R1 set to 3.25 volts, the RF gain would now only reach 3.99 volts at minimum gain. This is not enough to reach the minimum gain of the MC1350 and the range of the RF gain control is now only 0.74 volts. Working backwards, and setting the AGC voltage to 4.45 volts with the RF gain control at minimum gain, the AGC threshold voltage becomes 3.6 volts. However, when adjusting R1 with the RF gain at minimum, it becomes clear that 4.45 volts is not enough to minimize the gain of the MC1350. The minimum gain occurs at about 4.85 volts. This corresponds to a AGC threshold voltage of 3.80 volts. I suspect that U2 is playing a role in the different minimum gain voltages seen here as compared to the directly applied voltage on the MC1350 via R4. That then made me question if R1 could be set to MC1350 maximum gain. Looks like 3.6 volts or so gets there. However at this setting the RF gain control does not have enough range to minimize the gain of the MC1350. So it would appear that to get the full range of gain of the MC1350, the range of the RF gain control must be controlled. Dave's mod allows the minimum and maximum voltages of the RF gain control to be set as needed. Rather than set these limits to certain voltages, they should be set for maximum and minimum gain. What the effects on the calibration and linearity of the S-meter are yet to be determined. Installing Dave's mod will be my next K2 adventure. Darrell VA7TO K2 #5093 -- Darrell Bellerive Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Adding KPA100 to an old K2 (#2592)
Paul, I believe the Elecraft rule still is: If you need new firmware when ordering an additional OPTION (not upgrade or mod), then the firmware will be provided at no extra cost. Many (probably most) of those ordering KPA100s already have firmware adequate to support it (Firmware 2.02 or later is required for the KPA100). So you should have gotten new firmware with your KPA100 purchase. If you did not mention your current firmware version, it would not have been packed with your order. I do not believe Elecraft attempts to track who has what firmware level anymore, although they did initially - with over 6000 K2s out there, the tracking would be difficult (and likely incorrect). A call or email to mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] referencing your KPA100 purchase invoice and your present firmware level is likely to yield new firmware for your K2 at no cost. I strongly recommend the Keying waveshape mod (K2KEYMODKT) in addition to your other mod kits for use with the KPA100 installed, keyclicks that are not a problem at 10 watts can become a problem at 100 watts, and your nearby fellow hams may compliain about your clicks. The KSB2 and KAT2 firmware can stay as-is, but if you are upgrading your K2, my opinion is that you should go 'all the way' with it, the incremental cost is small in comparison to the total work required for the upgrade. It is easier to do it all at once instead of piecemeal. When I upgrade a K2, I install even the optional sections - I have never had one that did not respond nicley and behave like a brand new K2 - install the AF Gain wiring change and the Extremely Strong Signal Handling Diodes (you will need 2 1N4148 diodes). 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > What firmware upgrades are needed to add a KPA100 to a K2 (#2592, > Rev A)? > Current firmware version is 2.01H 1.02 (as shown in the display on power > up). > > I have purchased (in addition to the KPA100) to bring the K2 up to Rev > B: > > K2ATOBKT (K2 rev A to B upgrade parts) > BFOMDKT (K2 BFO & PLL upgrade) > E850138 (K2 temperature compensated PLL upgrade) > XFILMDKIT (2nd filter upgrade for the K2) > > The last one is not necessary, I know. > > Upon reading the KPA100 manual, it appears that I need to purchase new > firmware (K2FWMCIO $44) to make the upgrade work. It seems to me when > the KPA100 first came out, this firmware was part of the kit. What > happened? > > I have an KSB2 (ssb upgrade, Rev D board, 1.04 firmware). Does this also > need an upgrade? (FWSSB, $29) > > I noticed that there is firmware for the K2 tuner (KAT2, $29). Is this > necessary also? > > Paul > AD5IW > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.7/710 - Release Date: > 3/4/2007 1:58 PM > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.7/710 - Release Date: 3/4/2007 1:58 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] Really OT Ham Radio
I have tried this link 5 times and it stops a different spots and does not continue. > http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2943570522939177086&hl=en ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N-GEN
Hey Elecrafters, I just completed the N-GEN mini-module.The kit went together nicely. Although I have not yet tested it out on a transceiver, I assume it works because the LED lights when I turn the switch on. Tomorrow I will try it out on my Ten-Tec Argo 556, and then maybe start on the DL1. I will probably order the swr meter in the near future. 73 from central OK. Dennis Vavra, AD5LY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Really OT Ham Radio
Try clicking on the link then, when the video starts, click on the button in the lower left with two vertical "pause" lines. Now click on "download" over on the right. That will transfer the file to your computer. If you've been trying different things, you might have downloaded the file to your hard disk without realizing it (I did that on the first one!). You can check by starting the Google Player by itself (in Windows, click on ALL PROGRAMS/GOOGLE VIDEO/GOOGLE PLAYER). When the player loads, click on File/Open. If you've downloaded the file it'll appear in the popup window that opens. Also, I had some trouble at first because I apparently had an outdated version of the viewer. I clicked on the link that opens on the left to "download viewer" and let it install the latest. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Werner & Denise Haschke Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 12:44 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: FW: [Elecraft] Really OT Ham Radio I have tried this link 5 times and it stops a different spots and does not continue. > http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2943570522939177086&hl=en ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] XV50 Transverter Help
Hello: I'm in the process of aligning my transverter and I'm stuck on the RF PA quiescent current adjustment, where R39 is adjusted to 20 mV when keying the transverter. Before keying, I get 7 mV; after keying, no matter what position R39 is in, I get only 12 mV. There is no troubleshooting section in the manual. Could someone point me in the right direction ? Thanks and 73, Jamie WB4YDL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Vetical Antennas
Dave - You Wrote: "But I can't help thinking that feeding the pole from the top would be workable and perhaps more efficient: I've seen this done with a beam and tower arrangement in which the beam is isolated from the tower and an auto tuner fitted between." Yes that would work. I was not quite envisioning what you were asking. a relay to short the vertical to the radial field and then feeding that against the pole would work, perhaps with some added capacitance or inductance to make it all come out in the band you want. - Dr. Megacycle KK6MC/5 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] AGC Measurements
On March 4, 2007 12:25 pm, Darrell Bellerive wrote: > I suspect that U2 is playing a role in the > different minimum gain voltages seen here as compared to the directly > applied voltage on the MC1350 via R4. Just figured out why the voltages were so different. I was measuring at pin 5 of U2 rather than pin 1. Stupid, stupid, stupid. Well, that seems to be the only way I really learn. Make a mistake and correct it. And just when I was beginning to think I was understanding this AGC thing. :-) I'm off to work now, but, will remeasure the voltages and post the results as soon as I can. Darrell VA7TO K2 #5093 -- Darrell Bellerive Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] XV50 Transverter Help
Jamie, If you are dealing with an XV50, you should not have an R39 installed. There is no quiescent Current Adjustment for the XV50 - see the statement right under the 'Part V - ...' title. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of James C. Hall, MD > Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 6:57 PM > To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: [Elecraft] XV50 Transverter Help > > > Hello: > > > > I'm in the process of aligning my transverter and I'm stuck on the RF PA > quiescent current adjustment, where R39 is adjusted to 20 mV when > keying the > transverter. Before keying, I get 7 mV; after keying, no matter what > position R39 is in, I get only 12 mV. > > > > There is no troubleshooting section in the manual. Could someone > point me in > the right direction ? > > > > Thanks and 73, > > > > Jamie WB4YDL > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.7/710 - Release Date: > 3/4/2007 1:58 PM > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.7/710 - Release Date: 3/4/2007 1:58 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] XV50 Transverter Help
Hi, Jamie: First, troubleshooting, voltage tables, etc., are in the Owner's Manual. Their location is called out in the assembly manual on page 53: Final Test and Alignment, in case you run into a problem like this. Be sure you incorporated Errata C-4 into the Owner's Manual. It includes an updated schematic diagram for the XV50 that shows R39 and new voltage tables for troubleshooting. My first guess would be that you left jumper W1 out. That would open the bias circuit to the RF power amplifier module. It should have been installed as the second step on page 39 (in the assembly manual) of the building procedure. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of James C. Hall, MD Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 3:57 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] XV50 Transverter Help Hello: I'm in the process of aligning my transverter and I'm stuck on the RF PA quiescent current adjustment, where R39 is adjusted to 20 mV when keying the transverter. Before keying, I get 7 mV; after keying, no matter what position R39 is in, I get only 12 mV. There is no troubleshooting section in the manual. Could someone point me in the right direction ? Thanks and 73, Jamie WB4YDL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] XV50 Transverter Help
Sorry guys, I was looking at an old book and did not realize it - ignore my last post. Saved this time by Ron - thank you. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Oops.. I think you're using an old book, Don! They had to change the XV50 design because the old module was no longer available. The new module has the quiescent current adjustment. Errata C-4 to the Owner's manual has the updated schematic, voltage chart, etc. The current Assembly Manual (Rev C) was updated in January to incorporate all the build changes needed for the new module. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Jamie, If you are dealing with an XV50, you should not have an R39 installed. There is no quiescent Current Adjustment for the XV50 - see the statement right under the 'Part V - ...' title. 73, Don W3FPR -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.7/710 - Release Date: 3/4/2007 1:58 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for March 4th & 5th, 2007
Good Evening, That was a good time. I am feeling the effects of a woodstove too warm, a very good dinner, and not enough sleep from the night before. By the time I was finishing up the roll call I could not get AB9V sent correctly. Sorry Mike! But as I was writing up the lists and filling the database I noticed Mike has a KX1 which would probably fit into his carry on luggage for his trip to Florida. Mike, you are in luck, you can check in for the next two weeks from the beach :) I have heard salt water grounds are the very best kind. Now to find an umbrella drink with a very tall pole. That can hold your vertical wire in place and you can lay a counter poise into either the Gulf or the Atlantic. I don't think they will mind. QSB was the rule on almost every contact tonight. But I do believe Scott had it the worst. Minnesota seems to be sucking the RF right out of the aether for the last few weeks. Where are Paul Bunyan and Babe when you need them? Did they move to the Pacific Northwest? Maybe if you start a bonfire under the wires of your antenna the RF won't fall on the ground in frozen hertz. Before I am shot for bad punning: on to the lists => On 14050 kHz at 2255z: N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - 008 K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422 K6PJV - Dale - CA - K2 - 5345 VE7ZWA - Dale - BC - K1 - 1759 W3MC - Mike - MD - K2 - 5568 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 N5BZ - BZ - LA - K2 - 5884 QNI #5! W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767 WB3AAL - Ron - PA - K2 - 1392 W1BPJ - Terry - CO - K1 - 1800 K1EV - Bill - CT - K2 - 2152QNI #80!!! UA0CH - Ivan - RS - ? On 7045.50 kHz at 0155z: N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - 008 W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767 QNI #10!! K1THP - Dave - CT - K2 - 3942 K4GT - Jim - GA - K2 - 2015 WB3AAL - Ron - PA - K2 - 1392 N5BZ - BZ - LA - K2 - 5884 W3MC - Mike - MD - K2 - 5568 WA7BOC - Roger - WA - K2 - 755 K0NEB - Joe - NE - KX1 - 1493 K2HYD - Ray - NC - KX1 - 608 AK2B - Tom - NY - K2 - 4482 VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968 WD4LST - Pete - FL - K2 - 5813 NM7N - Karl - OR - K2 - 4227 NK6A - Don - CA - K2 - 1217 K3OOL - Craig - PA - K2 - 4790 WB8RTJ - Jim - OH - K2 - 5886 W6WXZ - Jack - CA - Kenwood N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866 W6ZH - Pete - CA - K2 - 5138 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 If you would have asked me earlier in the week if we could have done this well I don't think I would have agreed. Pretty good numbers for the bottom of the solar cycle with a solar stream disrupting our ionosphere. There was some SSB QRM on 40 meters but nowhere near as bad as expected. When it got too bad I passed to Tom and he ran the eastern folks for me. As always if there are any errors (there may be a few because I am about to fall nose first into the keyboard) please email me and I'll fix the database. Thank you folks, it is truly fun to work you all, 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control 5th Class) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WTB: Heathkit SB-300 SB-301 SB-303 SB- 401 Parts
Hi From Freezin' "Bonnie Scotland"... I am looking to buy one of the above enclosures (think most are from the late 60's or 70's) for an up-and-coming project... Also would be interested in the inside "chassis" part... If anyone has one of these lying around surplus to their needs please drop Me a line at the e-mail address below with your requirements.. Thanks [EMAIL PROTECTED] Andy GM0NWI K2 "Fully Loaded" QRP S/n 01432 K2 "Fully Loaded" QRP S/n 05469 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.6/709 - Release Date: 03/03/2007 08:12 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com