[Elecraft] KX1 SIG Menu Item
I've been trying to figure out how the heck to use the SIG menu item in my KX1. There's virtually no description of how to set it up, other than the cryptic notes in the Menu Functions section on page 65. Can anyone explain what the parameters (eg) H5 and L84 are supposed to mean, and exactly what procedure should be used to set the S-meter? Am I the only stupid one, or do the guys at Elecraft just think we can figure this one out by using psychic abilities? The manual is normally so darn good, but then virtually zip on this topic. Joel, VE6VOX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 or K1?
I wound my own on the K2 and KSB2, and purchased them for the KAT100 and KPA100. Mychal provided great service and excellent products. I will likely continue both traits. I will make my own on small projects, and purchase them on larger projects. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I agree, if we're talking about toroids and not those dreaded overheated torroids . I wind my own but, as Craig says, some builders get frustrated doing the turns count, stripping the enamel off properly, etc. For them Michael's service is invaluable. For anyone who wants to shave an hour or so off of the building time for a K2 and prefers to "drop in and solder" all the parts, they are great. Even though I don't normally use his toroids, I have seen several examples of his work first-hand and it is definitely first-rate. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- One thing I would strongly recommend, although not necessary - is to buy the PRE-BUILT TOROIDS I second this motion. Well at least the part that says it's not necessary. :-) I agree that if you're advanced in years and have trouble manipulating small objects you might find winding torroids to be difficult or even painful. If on the other hand you're reasonably dexterous you'll find that the torroids are not that big of a deal. After winding LOTS of torroids for the K2, K1, KX1 and their respective auto-tuners I can tell you that if you can thread a needle with a 1/4" hole and reliably count to 25 you can wind your own torroids. And if you can melt solder (that silver melty stuff that's like really soft wire) on the end of your soldering iron (the pointy hot thing), you can tin the leads. Don't fear the torroids. Craig NZ0R ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] PSK31 and K2
Hello, I finally found my RIGblaster plus unit but I can't find my book. Just playing around with the RIGblaster I can receive via the sound card with out any problems. I placed the K2 into VOX and I go to transmit and all seems fine but it does not send anything. Then I tell the unit to receive but it will not receive unit I take the Mic jack out of the front of the K2. Anyone else using the K2 and RIGblaster plus for PSK31? Onto looking for the manual. 72 and Thanks, Ron Polityka WB3AAL www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org/ K1 - SN 01011 K2 - SN 01392 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 or K1?
I agree, if we're talking about toroids and not those dreaded overheated torroids . I wind my own but, as Craig says, some builders get frustrated doing the turns count, stripping the enamel off properly, etc. For them Michael's service is invaluable. For anyone who wants to shave an hour or so off of the building time for a K2 and prefers to "drop in and solder" all the parts, they are great. Even though I don't normally use his toroids, I have seen several examples of his work first-hand and it is definitely first-rate. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- > One thing I would strongly recommend, although not > necessary - is to buy the PRE-BUILT TOROIDS I second this motion. Well at least the part that says it's not necessary. :-) I agree that if you're advanced in years and have trouble manipulating small objects you might find winding torroids to be difficult or even painful. If on the other hand you're reasonably dexterous you'll find that the torroids are not that big of a deal. After winding LOTS of torroids for the K2, K1, KX1 and their respective auto-tuners I can tell you that if you can thread a needle with a 1/4" hole and reliably count to 25 you can wind your own torroids. And if you can melt solder (that silver melty stuff that's like really soft wire) on the end of your soldering iron (the pointy hot thing), you can tin the leads. Don't fear the torroids. Craig NZ0R ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 or K1?
> One thing I would strongly recommend, although not > necessary - is to buy the PRE-BUILT TOROIDS I second this motion. Well at least the part that says it's not necessary. :-) I agree that if you're advanced in years and have trouble manipulating small objects you might find winding torroids to be difficult or even painful. If on the other hand you're reasonably dexterous you'll find that the torroids are not that big of a deal. After winding LOTS of torroids for the K2, K1, KX1 and their respective auto-tuners I can tell you that if you can thread a needle with a 1/4" hole and reliably count to 25 you can wind your own torroids. And if you can melt solder (that silver melty stuff that's like really soft wire) on the end of your soldering iron (the pointy hot thing), you can tin the leads. Don't fear the torroids. Craig NZ0R ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] N8S
and I can still here them well in southern NM. and I can hear them well too. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] N8S
FB Leigh. They were bored on 15SSB so they went to 14.190 and I worked them there, also with 5W. They got bored on 20M and went back to 15M, and I can still here them well in southern NM. 73, john At 04:03 PM 10/04/07, you wrote: John, Thanks...I set up the rig as a result of your message. They sounded bored. I heard them work a Japanese station then I worked 'em 5W as well and then they disappeared. I am in Hawaii, though, so it's easy. 73, Leigh/WA5ZNU On Tue, 10 Apr 2007 11:30 am, John wrote: N8S is on 21.295, listening 5 up. Begging for contacts. I made it with 5W SSB. John k7up ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] MD2 mic FS
I have an Elecraft MD2 mic w/PTT footswitch for sale. Price is $75 plus shipping. This mic is no longer sold by Elecraft and is in excellent condition with original box. Pic on request. Email off Reflector. Mark - W5EZY Grenada, MS Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check. Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta. http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbeta/newmail_tools.html ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 or K1?
That's Mychael the toroidguy at: [EMAIL PROTECTED] He does great work. If you can't find the reference on the web site, just drop him a line. You don't need to send him your cores. Just place your order and the toroids will be on their way "toot sweet" (my apologies to our French speaking members). And the usual disclaimers do *not* apply. He's a friend of mine and, I suspect, a LOT of other folks on the reflector here. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- K1 or K2 or Elecraft? I built the K2 #54xx last spring. Went very well, soldering skills came back quickly - from my previous ham Heathkit days .. One thing I would strongly recommend, although not necessary - is to buy the PRE-BUILT TOROIDS, from the "Toroid Man" Mike. He's listed on the Elecraft website. He winds and tins almost perfect Toroids. Each is carefully marked in a small envelope - ready to install. I bet that one decision - made my K2 build a total success! I recall - he had them built and shipped to me, before I even had paid him, or before my personal check had cleared at his end. He is very good to work with! I toroid mis-install, 1 extra or short winding, on a single toroid - can cause MUCH grief! Good luck on your build decision. Elecraft - you will not regret it! Fred, FL N3CSY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N8S
N8S is on 21.295, listening 5 up. Begging for contacts. I made it with 5W SSB. John k7up ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] "AF" pad? KPA100
Thanks much. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 Lamb, Dick & Judy wrote: On Apr 10, 2007, at 4:48 , David Wilburn wrote: Page 21 of the KPA100 document (version D). In the initial tests, right column, second row from the bottom of the table; "AF" pad (measure from bottom), ground > 10k What is the "AF" pad? I assume I am supposed to measure it from the bottom of the board, to ground, and it is to be greater than 10k. But I can't sort out what "AF" pad is. I even checked the version E document. So it is probably something obvious that I am just not getting. -- Look at the board from the top, with the speaker cut-out to the lower right. Now notice the lower left corner. You'll see holes (i.e., solder points or "pads") for "GND" and "AF." The "AF" solder point is the AF pad. It's where the audio line from the K2 connects to the board. I just finished a KPA100, and I have to admit that description stumped me for a moment, also. Dick, K0KK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] "AF" pad? KPA100
On Apr 10, 2007, at 4:48 , David Wilburn wrote: Page 21 of the KPA100 document (version D). In the initial tests, right column, second row from the bottom of the table; "AF" pad (measure from bottom), ground > 10k What is the "AF" pad? I assume I am supposed to measure it from the bottom of the board, to ground, and it is to be greater than 10k. But I can't sort out what "AF" pad is. I even checked the version E document. So it is probably something obvious that I am just not getting. -- Look at the board from the top, with the speaker cut-out to the lower right. Now notice the lower left corner. You'll see holes (i.e., solder points or "pads") for "GND" and "AF." The "AF" solder point is the AF pad. It's where the audio line from the K2 connects to the board. I just finished a KPA100, and I have to admit that description stumped me for a moment, also. Dick, K0KK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 or K1?
K1 or K2 or Elecraft? I built the K2 #54xx last spring. Went very well, soldering skills came back quickly - from my previous ham Heathkit days .. One thing I would strongly recommend, although not necessary - is to buy the PRE-BUILT TOROIDS, from the "Toroid Man" Mike. He's listed on the Elecraft website. He winds and tins almost perfect Toroids. Each is carefully marked in a small envelope - ready to install. I bet that one decision - made my K2 build a total success! I recall - he had them built and shipped to me, before I even had paid him, or before my personal check had cleared at his end. He is very good to work with! I toroid mis-install, 1 extra or short winding, on a single toroid - can cause MUCH grief! Good luck on your build decision. Elecraft - you will not regret it! Fred, FL N3CSY Be a PS3 game guru. Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games. http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] "AF" pad? KPA100
Page 21 of the KPA100 document (version D). In the initial tests, right column, second row from the bottom of the table; "AF" pad (measure from bottom), ground > 10k What is the "AF" pad? I assume I am supposed to measure it from the bottom of the board, to ground, and it is to be greater than 10k. But I can't sort out what "AF" pad is. I even checked the version E document. So it is probably something obvious that I am just not getting. -- David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 or K1?
Depends on what you want it for. If you bare thinking about a "new" all-mode, all-band rig, I'd certainly choose the K2, 160 meter and SSB add-ons. Maybe even the 100 watt model. If you are interested in QRP, a "pack rig", CW only, and you can cope with just having 40-15 (4 band) or changing two band cards, then I'd say the K1 was right for you. I have a K1 originally b ought with 4 band option which I setup for 40/30/20/15 meters. I have an extra two band RF board for 160/80 meters. Also have the KAT1 internal tuner. If I did it all over again, I'd skip the KAT1 and purchase the external T-1 tuner as it has greater matching range. It is a really great rig. I did not care for the "internal battery" option as it is a pain taking the batteries in and out for charging. The smaller loudspeaker isn't potent enough for my old ears! 73, Sandy W5TVW - Original Message - From: "Gary D Krause" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 12:36 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 or K1? Hi, I've been reading many of the posts here as well as reading through the manuals on the Elecraft site. I've been thinking about building either a K2 or K1. I've read some of the magazine articles that state that the K2 is not a beginners kit and I have read other sources that state beginners have built the K2 with no problem. The last time I built a kit was in the eighties. I have no doubt about my soldering abilities and I know that isn't a problem. I've been told on the air that if I'm going to build the K2 or K1 to go for the K2. I would like to build the K2. So, I would like some feed back on what you think. Has anyone here built the K2 as their first kit or Elecraft kit? I really don't want to build the K1 first because, I don't want to spend the money for both rigs. I know I could sell the K1 but, I don't want to be bothered with that. Thanks, Gary, N7HTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.26/754 - Release Date: 4/9/2007 10:59 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Sound and feel
Given that my ears are not precision instruments (they roll of rapidly after 3500 Hz and have really bad hearing above that)...I too must agree with Don. But, my experience has been that the K2 has a better sound that the PRO II ... by far! I contest a lot...mostly CW (some SSB)...and I get very tired running the PRO II. It drives me nuts after a couple of hours. When I use the K2, this does not happen...and I don't use the 250 Hz filter. The lowest one I have is 400. The filter that is best is the DSP package between your ears. I've likened the K2 to the ICOM 765 (from the 80s). Now that rig was beautiful in audio outputeasy to listen to...and I put the K2 in the category. Again, this is all experience and not quantitative in nature. Lee - K0WA In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common Sense devine? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 or K1?
Thanks everyone for all of the positive responses. I think I'm going to order a K2 and give it a go! Gary, N7HTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WTB: K1 in Europe - Thank you, I have bought one!
___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 or K1?
Gary, I can't claim to be a "beginner" but I know a lot of beginners have done it. It's really quite simple if you follow the manual and take the build one part at a time. I don't know what you built in the 80's but I've found that good kits, like the Elecraft rigs, have become easier to build over time. Indeed, not too long ago I helped a buddy overhaul his Viking Ranger - a vintage rig from the 1950's. I had built one from a kit without trouble back in the 50's when I was a teenager. I was astonished to see in the assembly manual that had 'steps' like "locate the mica capacitors used in the VFO and install them, referring to the photograph and schematic!" Everything was point-to-point, of course. No check lists. No details about how to identify or position the parts, other than a few photographs. No circuit boards. Big wiring harnesses that had to be positioned and all the wires attached to the proper lugs on tie strips and tube sockets as needed with almost nothing to go by but a few terse comments and a schematic diagram. Heathkit made it easier with their gigantic "pictorial" charts. Elecraft took it further by eliminating all the point-to-point wiring! So building a K2 is a matter of stuffing well-marked pc boards with parts while referring to a check-off list that shows each part and how it's marked. It seems like 99% of the problems are caused by fatigue - working far too many hours at a time or being in a hurry - bad soldering - forgetting to solder a joint, getting sloppy and creating solder bridges or failing to properly strip and tin the toroid inductor leads before "soldering" them into place - or by mis-handling static sensitive parts. A ground strap is a great idea, but you can work safely by learning to touch a bare metal grounded object regularly while working (and keeping parts away from plastics like Styrofoam containers). If you take it one step at a time you'll be astonished at how easy the K2 goes together. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Hi, I've been reading many of the posts here as well as reading through the manuals on the Elecraft site. I've been thinking about building either a K2 or K1. I've read some of the magazine articles that state that the K2 is not a beginners kit and I have read other sources that state beginners have built the K2 with no problem. The last time I built a kit was in the eighties. I have no doubt about my soldering abilities and I know that isn't a problem. I've been told on the air that if I'm going to build the K2 or K1 to go for the K2. I would like to build the K2. So, I would like some feed back on what you think. Has anyone here built the K2 as their first kit or Elecraft kit? I really don't want to build the K1 first because, I don't want to spend the money for both rigs. I know I could sell the K1 but, I don't want to be bothered with that. Thanks, Gary, N7HTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 or K1?
I think you may have answered your own question. The K1 isn't a prerequisite to the K2, though I believe some of the skills I learned building my K1 paid off while building my K2. There's no reason a person couldn't learn those skills building a K2, though. If you don't want a K1 AND a K2, then just build the K2. The K1 was a fun kit to build and it is a fun radio to use. But the K2 isn't that much harder. It is more time-consuming and there are more options. Like you, I hadn't built anything for a long time when I launched into the Elecraft kits. I've built the K1, K2, KPA100, KAT100, a bunch of K2 options, and the KX1 with the 30/80 board. Of these the KX1 is actually the hardest to build IMHO, especially the 30/80 board. It wasn't impossible, and if I can do it, anybody can. It was just more challenging than the other kits. Craig NZ0R K2/100 #4941 K1 #1966 KX1 #1499 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gary D Krause Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 12:37 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K2 or K1? Hi, I've been reading many of the posts here as well as reading through the manuals on the Elecraft site. I've been thinking about building either a K2 or K1. I've read some of the magazine articles that state that the K2 is not a beginners kit and I have read other sources that state beginners have built the K2 with no problem. The last time I built a kit was in the eighties. I have no doubt about my soldering abilities and I know that isn't a problem. I've been told on the air that if I'm going to build the K2 or K1 to go for the K2. I would like to build the K2. So, I would like some feed back on what you think. Has anyone here built the K2 as their first kit or Elecraft kit? I really don't want to build the K1 first because, I don't want to spend the money for both rigs. I know I could sell the K1 but, I don't want to be bothered with that. Thanks, Gary, N7HTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] solar power
I run my Elecraft K1 at home off of four Siemens 55 watt panels. I use a 30 amp charge controller which feed six golf cart batteries that are 6 volts each at 200 amp-hr. I have them wired in three pairs go give 12 vdc at 600 amp-hr. The panels and the batteries are now 12 years old and still running fine. The batteries also run a 500 watt DC to 120 VAC inverter. I have some photos of the solar setup and house at http://www.metaphoria.us//Tiff3/index.html My ham radio webpage is here: http://www.metaphoria.us/hamradio/ham_radio.htm In my opinion, one of the best sources for things solar is the Mr. Solar website at: http://www.mrsolar.com/ Jozef WB2MIC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm trying to set up a remote radio location with solar power. Does anyone have current info on the best solar panels and charger? Frank W7is ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 or K1?
Hi Gary, As you have had some kit building experience in the past I don't think you should have any problems with the K2. The instrucion manual is a very complete and understandable "Heathkit" style manual. Just take your time and follow the instructions and you'll have a very rewarding experience, If you run into problems this reflector has an amazing amount of expertise. You might consider downloading the manual to see what you would be dealing with. Join the K2 club! 73, Doug, W6JD K2/100 #1626 -- Original message -- From: "Gary D Krause" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Hi, I've been reading many of the posts here as well as reading through the > manuals on the Elecraft site. I've been thinking about building either a K2 > or K1. I've read some of the magazine articles that state that the K2 is not > a beginners kit and I have read other sources that state beginners have built > the K2 with no problem. > > The last time I built a kit was in the eighties. I have no doubt about my > soldering abilities and I know that isn't a problem. I've been told on the > air that if I'm going to build the K2 or K1 to go for the K2. I would like to > build the K2. So, I would like some feed back on what you think. Has anyone > here built the K2 as their first kit or Elecraft kit? > > I really don't want to build the K1 first because, I don't want to spend the > money for both rigs. I know I could sell the K1 but, I don't want to be > bothered with that. > > Thanks, > Gary, N7HTS > > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 or K1?
Hi, I've been reading many of the posts here as well as reading through the manuals on the Elecraft site. I've been thinking about building either a K2 or K1. I've read some of the magazine articles that state that the K2 is not a beginners kit and I have read other sources that state beginners have built the K2 with no problem. The last time I built a kit was in the eighties. I have no doubt about my soldering abilities and I know that isn't a problem. I've been told on the air that if I'm going to build the K2 or K1 to go for the K2. I would like to build the K2. So, I would like some feed back on what you think. Has anyone here built the K2 as their first kit or Elecraft kit? I really don't want to build the K1 first because, I don't want to spend the money for both rigs. I know I could sell the K1 but, I don't want to be bothered with that. Thanks, Gary, N7HTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] solar power
I'm trying to set up a remote radio location with solar power. Does anyone have current info on the best solar panels and charger? Frank W7is ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 U1 pin 3 -> ground | failure
Dave, Yes, that is not good - you need a new 2N7000. Those FETs are quite sensitive to static and likely became zapped at some point. Send a note to Elecraft ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) and request a new one. 73, Don W3FPR David Wilburn wrote: During the initial tests (from the right side of page 21 in the KPA100 manual) on U1 pin 3 -> ground, I measured just under 4k as opposed to the > 10k. I pulled out the schematic and checked pins 3 and 4 of the R-pack, and they measured correctly. When I checked Q11, I read a bit over 100 ohms across the source and drain in both directions. I pulled Q11 and the reading on U1 pin 3 went to greater than 10k. I measured both directions of S & D on Q11 once it was out, and still read about 120 ohms. I get the impression this is not good. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: XV50
Several years ago I JUST HAD TO HAVE something to build! Having never operated 6 meters the XV50 looked like it would take care of the building need and let me explore 6 meters. Well, I soon decided that 6 held little interest for me and the XV50 was just sitting around looking cool but not doing anything. Therefore I would like to sell the XV50 to someone who can make better use of it than I. Includes the crystal oven which I have not installed. Asking $325.00, shipping negotiable. Doug, W6JD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 U1 pin 3 -> ground | failure
During the initial tests (from the right side of page 21 in the KPA100 manual) on U1 pin 3 -> ground, I measured just under 4k as opposed to the > 10k. I pulled out the schematic and checked pins 3 and 4 of the R-pack, and they measured correctly. When I checked Q11, I read a bit over 100 ohms across the source and drain in both directions. I pulled Q11 and the reading on U1 pin 3 went to greater than 10k. I measured both directions of S & D on Q11 once it was out, and still read about 120 ohms. I get the impression this is not good. -- David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DSP on SSB
Great, thanks. I almost ordered that yesterday. It is next on the list though. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 Bob Nielsen wrote: Yes. Bob, N7XY K2 #3273 On Apr 10, 2007, at 5:33 AM, David Wilburn wrote: One thing I do miss is the "beat cancel" on my Kenwood. Does the DSP offer this sort of capability? David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 John Wiener wrote: I worked 4X4BL on 40M last night before midnight EDT here in OH using the DSP on receive. It was indispensable. QRM was high and the 4X4 was unreadable without it. I've read before that DSP was not useful on SSB...worked for me. John AB8O ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DSP on SSB
Yes. Bob, N7XY K2 #3273 On Apr 10, 2007, at 5:33 AM, David Wilburn wrote: One thing I do miss is the "beat cancel" on my Kenwood. Does the DSP offer this sort of capability? David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 John Wiener wrote: I worked 4X4BL on 40M last night before midnight EDT here in OH using the DSP on receive. It was indispensable. QRM was high and the 4X4 was unreadable without it. I've read before that DSP was not useful on SSB...worked for me. John AB8O ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http:// mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 36, Issue 10
In a message dated 10/04/2007 09:08:37 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: bob <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi would you please forward this to the guy who has the k2 for sale and forward him my e mail address please..Regards Dave. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] IF shift
Brett, Yes, the Kenwood TS-820 was a single conversion transceiver that implemented IF shift. To have IF shift in a single conversion receiver it is necessary to change both the VFO and BFO together in synch (and in the proper direction). I believe it could have been done in the K2 microprocessor with enough memory space to accomplish that feat. The K2 microprocessor has been short on available memory space for its entire lifetime. 73, Don W3FPR VR2BrettGraham wrote: No, this is not an LDE - I simply missed sending it originally. In the meantime, I would have sworn the TS-820 my father had did have an IF shift knob, turning that knob caused it to behave like the radio had IF shift & this IF shift functionality worked on all bands. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DSP on SSB
One thing I do miss is the "beat cancel" on my Kenwood. Does the DSP offer this sort of capability? David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 John Wiener wrote: I worked 4X4BL on 40M last night before midnight EDT here in OH using the DSP on receive. It was indispensable. QRM was high and the 4X4 was unreadable without it. I've read before that DSP was not useful on SSB...worked for me. John AB8O ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] DSP on SSB
I worked 4X4BL on 40M last night before midnight EDT here in OH using the DSP on receive. It was indispensable. QRM was high and the 4X4 was unreadable without it. I've read before that DSP was not useful on SSB...worked for me. John AB8O ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Sound and feel
And I might add "Perception is 98% of reality" And that is true no matter what the meters or instruments say. 73, Don W3FPR Darwin, Keith wrote: On the topic of comparing radios... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Sound and feel
On the topic of comparing radios... I've found that one must be careful on how the comparison is done. You'll get a far better reading if you can hold everything constant except for the rig under test. I'll feed a single antenna to both rigs through an antenna switch (maybe) and then send the audio output from each rig to my mixing board which in turn feeds my headphones. I can exactly balance the audio level from each rig using the mixer and I'm listening through the same headphones. With such a setup, switching from one rig to another is as simple as turning two pots on the mixer (or maybe hitting a mute button). True differences (and similarities) between rigs become immediately apparent in a way that just doesn't happen otherwise. And be sure to do both short term and long term listening. Quickly switching from one to another can show you things. So, too can switching after listening to one for a while. - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] IF shift
No, this is not an LDE - I simply missed sending it originally. In the meantime, I would have sworn the TS-820 my father had did have an IF shift knob, turning that knob caused it to behave like the radio had IF shift & this IF shift functionality worked on all bands. As they say, live & learn. Will I still be alive & be able to understand what from today I also have gotten all wrong when 25 years from now somebody similarly enlightens me to my obliviousness? ;^) 73, VR2BrettGraham. N7XY corrected: Brett, that quote was from N6WG, not me. I have no idea why I keep getting you two mixed up. There have been a number of single-conversion rigs with IF shift. How it requires multiple-conversion or with single conversion might only be reasonably achievable on just a single band I am also having a hard time getting my head around. 73 & HLNY, VR2BrettGraham ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
