Re: [Elecraft] Re: FCC rules part 18 [CF bulbs vs. LED]
On Sun, 15 Apr 2007, Larry Makoski wrote: And we survived! No seat belts or kid's car seats back then, too And I never had to be told not to eat paint chips, either! 'Course not, your momma was prolly so unliberated that she wuz at home raisin' ya up...and did funny stuff like clean, so's ther wuzn't no chips///and if there were your dad most likely scraped and repainted. At 89 my Mom is always wondering how my brother and I could have survived without all the protections of the do-gooders. Thom www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?
During the winter I live about 200 meters from the Florida Atlantic beach. Usually I have windows open, and although the salty sea breeze is pleasant, it greatly speeds corrosion of metal. Perhaps a maritime electronics expert could advise me as to whether I should leave my K2 (and other gear) on all the time, or power off when not it use. I can speculate that the slightly increased temperature from leaving it on might prevent some condensation of moisture. On the other hand, I recall from chemistry classes that increased temperature accelerates chemical reactions (like corrosion). Are there any other reasonable precautions I can take? Thanks Dick, K0KK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] About PC Anywhere
This from long-time friend and computer expert ... 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Travis Jarman (K4TNT) To: Ken Kopp Sent: Monday, 16 April, 2007 12:36 Subject: Re: Maybe of interest ... from the Elecraft reflector A much better solution for secure remote control is VNC (virtual network computing) over an encrypted tunnel. Note that it takes a little bit of work to set up the encryption. Good description of the technology and various available applications is here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VNC Travis - Original Message - From: David Wilburn To: 'Elecraft' Sent: Monday, 16 April, 2007 03:32 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PC Anywhere... In the past, PC Anywhere opened up some major security holes in computers and networks. Once installed, it announced itself like a beacon, screaming for script kiddies to come and get it. It may have been fixed by now, but I wouldn't want it on any network I was responsible for. This is demonstrated by it being a bandwidth hog. I used to get announcements on my network all the time when I was on cable, where folks had installed it and it was probing the network. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 Gregg R. Lengling wrote: The problem with PC Anywhere is the bandwidth that it requires and creates latency. I use Ham Radio Deluxe which operates with a host program running on 1 computer and a client program on the other. This in conjunction with Skype to pass the 2-way audio works great. I've done demos (last one a couple weeks ago at Superfest at AES in Milwaukee) and latency ends up being very low. For my home station from Milwaukee to Cedarburg (home) less than 20ms latency on all operations, from Milwaukee to India under 300ms, still great as anything under 400 or so ms works well. I have tried with PcAnywhere which requires much more data to transfer and latency goes way up and all actions are very delayed. Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 3:09 PM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] PC Anywhere... Hello Everyone, Perchance has anyone on the list tried remote control of his/her K2 (e/w a KIO2 accessory) using PC Anywhere as described in the April, 2007 QST? Steve Banks K0PQ Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re: Hexkey
I send backwards. When I built my first keyer, I had it in my head that the thumb (thick, heavy) was used to send dashes. As soon as my Heath keyer was done I discovered my mistake in logic but it was too late. I had already begun to train my brain by sending air morse and the thumb was tied to dashes. My solution was very simple. I send left handed using a right-handed paddle. If I operate someone else's station, I just slide the bug to the left and away we go, no rewiring or changing menu settings. It also allows me to keep the pen in the right hand for logging such. I've since learned to send with a bug which I do right handed. That way, my bug technique and my paddle technique don't get confused in the same hand. - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: FCC rules part 18 [CF bulbs vs. LED]
Here is a link to a presentation by the CEO of Lumileds, maker of the Luxeon LEDs you see in those flashlights for sale at hamfests. I attended a presentation of this talk and got to ask some questions about warm-white lighting, but apparently the video feed of the talk is not available. LEDs for Solid State Lighting and Other Emerging Applications: Status, Trends, and Challenges M. George Craford LumiLeds Lighting http://www.ewh.ieee.org/r6/scv/eds/slides/20051213-George-Craford-Lumileds.pdf The beginning is good, but slides 14-28 are skippable; after that the technical content picks up again. In particular, slide 31 shows the target efficiencies and costs needed to compete with CF, and later slides show the technical challenges and possible avenues for remedying them. This talk is now a couple of years old, so one hopes advances have been made. I see 100 lm/w LEDs for sale now, but not in the warm white (3300K) range, only daylight (5000K) and up, and single colors. The conclusion of this talk is that general-purpose LED lighting will happen, but the timing is hard to predict. It is possible that the push to legislate use of CF is an attempt by the CF industry to cement their use before LED lighting reaches this stage. 73, Leigh/WA5ZNU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Hexkey and using vibroplex bug
When I was educated morsecode at school (nautical college) I operated the straight up and down key with my right had. At that time, my teacher had an elbug, which was a japanese modified paddle and a large circuitboard with many transistors (it was in the mid 70's). Every student wanted to try that elbug ofcourse. I was no different but there was a big BUT My teacher Jaap would cut off my right hand if ever touched the paddle with that same right (straight key) hand. Reason for that, he said, was not to mix up the different keying ways and keep up the high-quality keying capabilty with the straight key. Well he trained me up to 25 wpm with the straight key and I passed the exam with near perfect morsecode. On the side I built more than one electronic key and kept operating that with my left hand. I never regretted that and am still gratefull for so much wisdom of my teacher. One nice spinn-off was e.g. that in contests (with no computer at hand at that time) I could write with my rigt hand and send morse with my left hand. After a year or two I bought a Vibroplex bug. I started out operating it with my left hand but that was very confusing so I changed the vibroplex to my righ hand. Many years later I still send lefthanded with a squeeze paddle and righthanded with the vibroplex bug. I can change in a second without any problem and never mix up the two ways of operating. Thank you Jaap. 73 Arie PA3A ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 frequency adjustment
Today I decided to recalibrate my K2 using a very accurate 10MHz source, as well as replacing C31 in the KPA100 (Rev. D) to bring it up to the latest Rev. E. After leaving both the 10MHz source and the K2 turned on all day to stabilise, I made a start but the first problem encountered was that the filters were just too darned good and wouldn't let me find zero-beat. Plenty 10MHz signal was available and the S-meter lit up with a full line of li'l green apples, but as zero beat was approached, both the S-meter reading and audio dropped out of sight. To get round this problem, I altered the LSB widest filter (2.4kHz - OP 1) down in frequency and found a healthy S-meter reading could be maintained. The low beat note could both be seen (highest LED flickering in time with the beat) and heard as a slow rise and fall in background noise. Unfortunately, I was distracted by an artefact that appeared only when an SSB filter was selected with no antenna connected. There was a crackling/crunching sort of noise that was not present on any CW setting or filter. During the hunt for the culprit, I found that if a finger was dabbed on the cathode of D4 (DSB output from BM to xtal filter) the problem cleared up. Also, if a finger was dabbed on T2, the problem went away. Further finger-dabbing along the xtal filter was unhelpful as I was acting as an antenna. Soldering was checked and re-done but the problem remained, so D4 bit the dust and was replaced with a new 1N4148. No improvement. Ah well, time was passing, so I thought I'd return to the calibration task. No problems were encountered and the task was completed successfully. CAL PLL was followed by a CAL FIL where the adjusted LSB filter was returned to its previous setting and all other filter settings were moved around before restoring them to their original settings. I noted the last digit of the BFO frequency had decremented by 1 in every case. After this, I was pleased to note that the nasty background noise previously heard when SSB was selected had disappeared, so I'm thinking it was an artefact caused by everything warming up and drifting. Now I shall check tomorrow to see if the artefact has moved and is present when the rig is cold. Changing C31 in the KPA doesn't appear to have made any difference to its operation, so what was it for? The PA's power output reading still tends to jitter around by +/-10% or so when running into a high quality 50 ohm dummy load. 73 DaveL G3TJP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Internal Battery Charger
Sure that this has already been asked and answered a dozen times, but I seem to have a problem being able to search the reflector archives (is there a trick to that?). What is best method to change the internal battery of the K2? I understand it needs to be about 14 volts, so the typical car battery charger is too low. 73 Bruce W1UJR www.w1ujr.net ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 frequency adjustment
Dave, That 'artifact' you heard when you had the filter set to hear zero frequency was most likely some BFO feedthru. Good that you have put C31 in the KPA100 - it is to avoid a possible oscillation - it has nothing to do with the power control level. You can tame the power variation a bit by increasing the value of R98 on the bottom of the RF board. Increase it until you begin to see a dropoff in power on 10 meters (check this on low power (power only the base K2 and not the KPA100). Use the largest value that allows normal power output on 10 meters. Normally 1k is a maximum value, but if your base K2 has higher than normal gain, you can go a bit higher. 73, Don W3FPR David Lankshear wrote: Today I decided to recalibrate my K2 using a very accurate 10MHz source, as well as replacing C31 in the KPA100 (Rev. D) to bring it up to the latest Rev. E. After leaving both the 10MHz source and the K2 turned on all day to stabilise, I made a start but the first problem encountered was that the filters were just too darned good and wouldn't let me find zero-beat. Plenty 10MHz signal was available and the S-meter lit up with a full line of li'l green apples, but as zero beat was approached, both the S-meter reading and audio dropped out of sight. To get round this problem, I altered the LSB widest filter (2.4kHz - OP 1) down in frequency and found a healthy S-meter reading could be maintained. The low beat note could both be seen (highest LED flickering in time with the beat) and heard as a slow rise and fall in background noise. Unfortunately, I was distracted by an artefact that appeared only when an SSB filter was selected with no antenna connected. There was a crackling/crunching sort of noise that was not present on any CW setting or filter. During the hunt for the culprit, I found that if a finger was dabbed on the cathode of D4 (DSB output from BM to xtal filter) the problem cleared up. Also, if a finger was dabbed on T2, the problem went away. Further finger-dabbing along the xtal filter was unhelpful as I was acting as an antenna. Soldering was checked and re-done but the problem remained, so D4 bit the dust and was replaced with a new 1N4148. No improvement. Ah well, time was passing, so I thought I'd return to the calibration task. No problems were encountered and the task was completed successfully. CAL PLL was followed by a CAL FIL where the adjusted LSB filter was returned to its previous setting and all other filter settings were moved around before restoring them to their original settings. I noted the last digit of the BFO frequency had decremented by 1 in every case. After this, I was pleased to note that the nasty background noise previously heard when SSB was selected had disappeared, so I'm thinking it was an artefact caused by everything warming up and drifting. Now I shall check tomorrow to see if the artefact has moved and is present when the rig is cold. Changing C31 in the KPA doesn't appear to have made any difference to its operation, so what was it for? The PA's power output reading still tends to jitter around by +/-10% or so when running into a high quality 50 ohm dummy load. 73 DaveL G3TJP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Internal Battery Charger
Bruce, CAR BATTERY CHARGER?? Those things are usually quite poorly regulated and often soar to 17 volts or more with little or no load. Note that the max voltage for the K2 is 15 volts, so you could get into trouble with one of the auto battery chargers. You can use a regulated power supply whose output is 14.1 to 14.3 volts with no problem - if the power supply has an output voltage adjustment inside, you can boost the voltage above the nominal 13.8 volts. There is another method - and that is to use a SmartCharger, but for those to work they must connect directly to the battery terminals (fuse the separate battery connection). See my webpage http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com to see how I did it. 73, Don W3FPR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sure that this has already been asked and answered a dozen times, but I seem to have a problem being able to search the reflector archives (is there a trick to that?). What is best method to change the internal battery of the K2? I understand it needs to be about 14 volts, so the typical car battery charger is too low. 73 Bruce W1UJR www.w1ujr.net ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 frequency adjustment
Brett, Since you can probably hear 10 MHz WWV at your QTH, why not use that signal in LSB or USB to set C22 very accurately. The method to do that is on the Elecraft website on the Builder's Resource page. I also recommend that one use Spectrogram to tell when WWV is tuned 'just right' - I place markers at 500 and 600 Hz and watch as the transmitted tones line up with the markers. Once you get it right, you can expect proper dial calibration within 20 Hz typically. The whole procedure is in the K2 Dial Calibration article on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com When you are done, if the K2 tunes in WWV in LSB or USB mode with accuracy, all bands will also be accurate. Then if you find yourself off frequency, you can blame the other radio. 73, Don W3FPR Brett gazdzinski wrote: Funny, I had today off and decided to do the same thing. I used the 756 pro as a source, did the adjustment, redid all the filter bfo settings, and went from 4000 Hz off to about 500, but I could not tell as I could not zero beat and did not think of changing the filter. When both the 756 and the K2 are tuned to the same frequency, they hear each other, but at maybe 400 or 500 Hz differences. Close enough for me anyway... Last time I did my filters, I paid a lot of attention on getting things to sound the same between filters and CW normal and reversed. Tune a signal in spot on the nose (same as sidetone) and switching between cw normal and reverse does not change the pitch. That is useful if you have qrm on one side. Listening on CW or ssb and changing filters does not change the pitch any, which is nice... The radio really does work well! I enjoy listening to cw (at speeds to fast for me to copy) for hours! ssb sounds good in the headphones, the little speaker inside the K2 does not really cut it for ssb... Brett N2DTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 is simply the best
Hello All, K2 5118 made contact #1 last Friday, random wire tuned by T1, also its first use. Has a 30 minute QSO with Rod, VK4LS on 40 with 10 W SSB, over 1200 km, solid all the way and nice report. After 30 years and many rigs, some home designed and brewed this was just great. The K2 has something very special. Cheers Glen VK1FB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 USB vs. DB9
Hello to the folks on the list. I am getting ready to order my K2 kit sometime over the next few days. (I sold my 746pro to be replaced with the K2 in QRP mode.) I was wondering if anyone on the list has designed a USB connection to the replace the DB9 serial interface? I see no point in having to use a USB to Serial dongle in today's age. Most new PCs only have USB especially laptops. It seems like it would pretty simple to replace replace the DB9 with USB driver chip. (I thought that there was an article in Nuts Volts recently that maybe tackled the Serial to USB conversion.) Thanks for the bandwidth. 73 -- John Hoaglun NG0R EN25 http://www.hoaglun.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT100-1 Sold!
The KAT100-1 tuner is spoken for. Thanks very much. Doug W4DAS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 USB vs. DB9
John, It's mainly because the DB-9 is used for more than just the serial interface in the design of the K2. I'm sure Wayne or Eric will chime in on the specifics, which have come up on the list in the past year, if I'm not mistaken. Matthew Pitts N8OHU K2 #5956 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 USB vs. DB9
Hi Matt, That is an excellent point. Given that thought, it might be nice to have a secondary board (or replacement board for those folks that may not need the DB9 interface) that uses the TX/RX data with a USB driver chip. It is great radio... now we just need to get the rig interface to same generation as the PCs that we are buying. I am excited about ordering my K2. 73, NG0R On 4/16/07, Matthew D. Pitts [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: John, It's mainly because the DB-9 is used for more than just the serial interface in the design of the K2. I'm sure Wayne or Eric will chime in on the specifics, which have come up on the list in the past year, if I'm not mistaken. Matthew Pitts N8OHU K2 #5956 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?
RUSTY Florida area? I'm surprised to hear about corrosive salty-air regions in Florida. Just never heard of it? Our son lives on big island of Hawaii - near Hilo. The salt water air type of corrosion, on things like bicycles, etc. - is notorious in Hawaii. Things there - not protected, don't last so long. Islands of Hawaii - are in the trade winds region of the Pacific - and I guess get their daily dose of salty air, naturally. I'm not sure this is the case on either coast of Florida. I'm probably wrong tho. The big island, above city of Hilo - gets a daily dose of natural rain, like 2 pm every afternoon. Perhaps the rain there, has some salinity. For some reason I've not heard this about Florida. We live 8 miles from the Gulf Coast of mid-western Florida. I can't say I see anything around our home, or in my garage, etc. - that has any appearance of salt corrosion. Cars look exceptional - easy to keep clean. No visible corrosion on anything we have? No rust on tools, etc. I wonder what the salinity is of the Florida Atlantic ocean, vs the Hawaiian Pacific ocean and the trade winds? Fred, N3CSY __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 USB vs. DB9
I have played with those chips (FTDI), and the integrated connectors with built-in chips, for possible use in my kits to replace the RS232 ports. The chips are reasonably priced, although still a tad more expensive than the MAX232 series, and only available in SMT, which adds assembly cost for me. The integrated connector assemblies are not cost effective IMO. I have tested a converter cable sold by ByteRunner... http://www.byterunner.com/byterunner/product_name=Y-105 It uses a Prolific chipset, and it seems to work just fine. The price is $8.69 in unity quantities plus 1st class shipping. That's about $10, and it lets the user decide whether to use RS232 or USB. They claim to have Vista drivers, but I have no need for them at this time. I have used it with my K2, TS-480S, IdiomPress rotorcard, and of course all my own LP products, and it seems to be solid. Even the handshaking pins are implemented properly. I plan to recommend this cable to my customers in the future... it appears to be a real bargain. 73, Larry N8LP www.telepostinc.com John Hoaglun wrote: Hello to the folks on the list. I am getting ready to order my K2 kit sometime over the next few days. (I sold my 746pro to be replaced with the K2 in QRP mode.) I was wondering if anyone on the list has designed a USB connection to the replace the DB9 serial interface? I see no point in having to use a USB to Serial dongle in today's age. Most new PCs only have USB especially laptops. It seems like it would pretty simple to replace replace the DB9 with USB driver chip. (I thought that there was an article in Nuts Volts recently that maybe tackled the Serial to USB conversion.) Thanks for the bandwidth. 73 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Intermittent to no receive or xmit
I purchased a pre-built K2 a couple of years ago. It seemed to work fine except on occasion it would stop receiving, with a tap on the right side of the cabinet it would be okay. These taps became more frequent. I also noticed that the K2 would not transmit at these times. Finally, about a week ago it quit. Where should I look, or what should I do to get the rig back on the air? Thank you, Craig K9CKA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Fw: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?
Lived in Florida for 16 years ... in Melbourne and St.Petersburg. Some salt air-related rust, corrosion, mildew but nothing like here on the Oregon coast where we spend winter months away from Montana. Except for the mildew ... we have a dehumidifier. It's a must here. (:-)) I'd leave the radio ON continously ... better for it in the long run than turning it on/off ... for several reasons. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Intermittent to no receive or xmit
Craig, I am fairly certain that you will find an unsoldered connection. Those things can work for a year or more and then all of a sudden, the amount of oxidation begins to increase and you have intermittent operation. Look in the genreral vicinity of the area where the tapping was more effective. 73, Don W3FPR Craig Taylor wrote: I purchased a pre-built K2 a couple of years ago. It seemed to work fine except on occasion it would stop receiving, with a tap on the right side of the cabinet it would be okay. These taps became more frequent. I also noticed that the K2 would not transmit at these times. Finally, about a week ago it quit. Where should I look, or what should I do to get the rig back on the air? Thank you, Craig K9CKA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
