Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Wine Update Software

2007-10-16 Thread Jeff Stai


You can't even believe how hard for me it is to NOT comment on a subject that has 
wine in it!

On 7/25, Wayne said:

It's possible that we'll rewrite the K3 Downloader software application in VB6, etc., so that .NET 
won't be needed. The only reason we use .NET now is that I'm a C programmer, and the quickest way 
for me to get the downloader working was to use Microsoft's C# programming environment.


In fact I hope to turn the downloader project in its entirety over to someone else  ;)   Want to 
write some VB6 code?


I am 100% certain alternative loaders will be written and supported for all 
sorts of platforms.

73! - jeff wk6i

--
Jeff Stai   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Twisted Oak Winery  http://www.twistedoak.com/
Winery Blog http://www.elbloggotorcido.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 15khz 2nd IF?

2007-10-16 Thread David Woolley

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

The lower you go, the better, because you get more samples per Hz of 
signal. (If you are sampling a 15 kHz signal 150,000 times per

second, that's 10,000 samples per Hz, but if you were to sample a 150
kHz signal the same number of times per second you only get 1000  samples per 
Hz.) All else being equal, more samples per Hz is better, as
is more bits per sample.


This doesn't make sense to me.  In a quadrature system, you only need to 
sample at a sampling *rate* equal to the bandwidth (you meet the Nyquist 
condition because the I and Q samples effectively double the rate).  In 
practice you would want to sample based on the skirt bandwidth, not the 
nose bandwidth.


I believe some DSP based receivers actually sample a band limited IF 
directly, at the bandwidth dictated sampling rate.


Going low probably makes the whole process more reliable.
--
David Woolley
Emails are not formal business letters, whatever businesses may want.
RFC1855 says there should be an address here, but, in a world of spam,
that is no longer good advice, as archive address hiding may not work.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Is TX frequency susceptible to RF on chassis?

2007-10-16 Thread Alexander Ponomarenko

Hi David!

For fine tune C22 you can use the simplest method with PC and specrpogram.
There is the original UA6HJQ's method:
-connect K2's AF-out to PC mic-input, and phones to PC phone out;
-turn On K2 and PC, and wait for 50-60 minutes (for temperature stability);
-check the connection TP1=Control Board;
-run the Spectrogram, and set for it: Scale -60db, FFT 8192, Band 640 -  
1329Hz

 and set marker to 1000Hz;
-set LSB-mode, and tune VFO at 10001,00kHz (WWV), if ANT is connected
you have to hear WWV-signals in headphones,
-if we see the WWV-signal peaked on 1000Hz (our marker on Spectrogram),
it's the ideal point for C22.
-if not, turn VFO for peaking the WWV-signal at 1000Hz-marker.
-f.e. if we have 10001,20kHz we'll have to subtract 20 (in later steps),
 if we have 1,80 we'll have to add 20 (in later steps)
- MENU = CAL = CAL FCTR (don't touch VFO-knob!)
- we can see 14914,70 (for example)
- now if we had 10001,20 we must to subtract: 14914,70-20=14914,50
 (if we had 1,80 = 14914,70+20=14914,90)
-now slowly turn C22 for 14914,50 readings (or 14914,90)
-recall CAL PLL for TP1 on 40m band
-recall CAL FIL for TP2 on each filter/mode.
Now you can recheck your K2 on WWV at 10001,00 kHz, as a rule the error  
makes

few Hz.
Same pictures you can see if follow here (in russian):
http://www.hamradio.cmw.ru/elecraft/calibrated.htm

73! Alex
K2#5287

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 15:44:31 +0300, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
wrote:



David,

The same principles work fine for any known frequency, it is just that  
the subtraction of the BFO frequency from the VFO frequency is not as  
straightforward.


An AM station broadcasting standard and constant tones (such as WWV) is  
easiest because one can observe the demodulated audio tones with  
Spectrogram assuring accurate tuning.  If you have a good ear, you may  
be able to tune to a station broadcasting music to within 5 or 10 Hz.


If you do use an AM broadcast station without standard tones as your  
standard, I would suggest that you tune it by ear in LSB or USB first,  
then switch to CW while observing the audio with Spectrogram - the  
carrier should appear 'straight and tall' at the frequency you have set  
in the K2 for the sidetone pitch - thus assuring accurate tuning of the  
station.  Then go back to SSB mode to set C22 while doing the  
subtraction between the VFO and BFO frequencies.  A note to help - any  
adjustment of C22 will move the VFO frequency reading about 5 times  
faster than the BFO reading, so do the adjustment with the counter probe  
plugged into TP1 and then check the result in TP2.  A few trials should  
yield an accurate setting.


73,
Don W3FPR


David Woolley wrote:

Don Wilhelm wrote:


refer to the K2 Dial Calibration article on my website  
http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com for techniques to accurately set the 4 MHz  
reference oscillator and the following steps to achieve good dial  
calibration.


Unfortunately, the sun doesn't seem to favour picking up WWV.  The  
original calibration was against the MHz birdies on an FRG7, which was,  
I think, calibrated against WWV in the past.  However I just tried on  
some 41m broadcast stations, and it looks like the calibration might be  
30 to 40 Hz high on that band, which probably equates to 50 to 70 Hz,  
in the same sense, on 10m, so I may try a calibration against those  
broadcast stations.  (Does anyone know a relatively accurate broadcast  
station, receivable in a noisy location in the UK, and near the high  
end of the VFO range?)






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--
Отправлено M2, революционной почтовой программой Opera:  
http://www.opera.com/mail/

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Re: [Elecraft] CW: Best low cost iambic key?

2007-10-16 Thread David Woolley

Rob Lundahl wrote:

Any recommendations for a low cost Iambic cw key?


Do you really mean an iambic keyer, or do you mean a high speed 
electronic keyer.  In my view, using iambic keyers is now becoming a 
skill that one only learns for the challenge of learning it.  If you 
want a skill that could be useful in an emergency, using a straight key 
is better, as it is much easier to improvise a directly keyed 
transmitter.  If you want fast and cheap sending, using a PC keyboard or 
PDA folding keyboard and a microcontroller provides a much cheaper 
solution, as it is basically using commodity parts, whereas iambic 
keyers are low volume products for a premium market.


When they were first developed, the only cost effective implementation 
method was discrete or SSI electronics, but now microcontrollers capable 
of working directly from a keyboard are only a few dollards and 
keyboards are also very cheap.



--
David Woolley
Emails are not formal business letters, whatever businesses may want.
RFC1855 says there should be an address here, but, in a world of spam,
that is no longer good advice, as archive address hiding may not work.
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[Elecraft] [K3] clarification on VFO and 2nd Rx

2007-10-16 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
I seem to be very confused about the way VFOa and b control transmit and
want to get some clarification please.

I started (in 2004) with an Yaesu FT-857 and am still using that, the way it
works may well have coloured my understanding. If I may, let me describe
what I understand based on that:

The 857 has 2 VFOs, A  B and at any one time you can see the freq, mode etc
set up on a specific VFO displayed, along with the VFO (id - a or b) that it
is. If I press A/B, it switches from A to B and vice versa. If I have VFOa
selected and Tx, it uses that freq  mode etc to transmit. If I have VFOb
selected and Tx, it uses the settings for VFOb to transmit.
It also has A=B which is slightly confusing and wrong, because it actually
copies VFOa to b - as the AB button on K3.

A K3 without 2nd RX (KRX3) has 2 VFOs and each VFO can be set up to a
specific frequency and mode, using certain roofing filters and DSP settings
etc.

You always listen and transmit using VFOa settings.
To use the VFOb settings you must tap A/B, which swaps the settings between
VFOa and VFOb, therefore meaning that VFOa is now using the settings that
were on VFOb? And when you transmit, you're using those. When you do this,
the TX and ^ (black arrow above TX) icons will show you as transmitting on
VFOa?
This is pretty much as per the FT-857, I just never thought of it in that
way (I also think of the rig using different circuits to transmit, but I
doubt now that it is).


If you are working split, you transmit on the freq, mode etc., set up in
VFOb - it uses VFOb for transmit. In this scenario, SPLIT, TX and v will be
shown to indicate you are transmitting on VFOb?


If you have the 2nd RX (KRX3) fitted and ON (SUB on), VFOb is used to
control it. In other words, the KRX3 module does not have VFO circuits on
it, it requires a VFO (B) to set it up etc.
All the other rules above apply though?

If the SUB is not on, its pretty much as first described?
Can you even turn on the SUB if its not fitted and if you can, what happens?


Finally, the [REV] button described on pg 15 as exchanging VFO a  b
temporarily - what does that mean - while you have it pressed it swaps and
if you release, they go back? If so, while you have it pressed and you Tx,
does if use VFOb settings?

Thank you Elecraft for making think about what is actually going on inside
my rig - please now help me to think about what is going on inside my head!
Hi 
-- 
Once upon a time a man whose axe was missing suspected his neighbour's son.
The boy walked like a thief, looked like a thief, and spoke like a thief.
But the man found his axe while digging in the valley, and the next time he
saw his neighbour's son, the boy walked, looked and spoke like any other
child. -Lao-tzu, philosopher (6th century BCE)
 


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[Elecraft] Iambic keys

2007-10-16 Thread JACrux
I have the Elecraft HEXKEY and it is excellent, with a good solid feel to it. 
I also have a collection of others (acquired over many yaers of searching for 
a padle that would correct my mistakes !!) 
OK; I gave up looking for error-correcting paddles and I am the proud owner of 
a CHEVRON, (www.chevronmorsekeys.co.uk.)  The CHEVRON is my first choice, but 
if it was stolen tonight, I'd be very happy if the thief left me the HEXKEY.  
G3JAG
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Re: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ's Place : new website!

2007-10-16 Thread Julian G4ILO
Looks great, Ed. You are welcome to add a listing for it in the
Personal Home Pages section at www.ham-directory.com . That goes for
anyone else who has a ham radio related homepage, too.

-- 
Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392  K3 s/n: ???
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf


On 10/15/07, Edward R. Breneiser [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hello all,

 I now have a new website called WA3WSJ's Place.
 I just started it so it needs more work, but if
 you're interested, take look.

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[Elecraft] [K3] clarification on VFO and 2nd Rx

2007-10-16 Thread Barry N1EU
I'm unclear about VFOA/B functionality when using the main and
subreceiver in diversity mode (i.e., tuned to same frequency) and the
transmitter in split mode.  It seems that the subrx needs to be
assigned to VFOA in this case but I'm not sure if the K3 provides that
flexibility (like the Orion).  The manual attempts to address this
specific case as follows, although I'm not getting it:

Split Mode with the Sub receiver: When operating split, VFO A is the
receive frequency and VFO B the transmit frequency. If the sub
receiver is on, you'll be able to listen to both your receive and
transmit frequencies in receive mode. Hold SPLIT to turn split mode on
or off.

Can someone explain what the manual is trying to say here and how
VFOA/B is being assigned to the subrx in diversity/split?  Is the
subrx always assigned to VFOB or is there more flexibility than this?

Thanks  73,
Barry N1EU
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] clarification on VFO and 2nd Rx

2007-10-16 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
You might have seen my post asking for clarification too. I'm pretty sure
KRX3 will always use VFOb and can not be switched at present.
My understanding is that with the sub on, its audio goes to the right
channel of the stereo output and VFOa's audio goes to the left channel.
That's regardless of SPLIT or not.
So in a pile-up, you can here both the freq when the op is working split.
In other situations, you might be calling on a fixed freq and listening for
CQs on other freq.


Forgive me if I've got this wrong, as I said, I mailed for clarification
too.

On 16/10/07 11:58, Barry N1EU [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent:

 I'm unclear about VFOA/B functionality when using the main and
 subreceiver in diversity mode (i.e., tuned to same frequency) and the
 transmitter in split mode.  It seems that the subrx needs to be
 assigned to VFOA in this case but I'm not sure if the K3 provides that
 flexibility (like the Orion).  The manual attempts to address this
 specific case as follows, although I'm not getting it:
 
 Split Mode with the Sub receiver: When operating split, VFO A is the
 receive frequency and VFO B the transmit frequency. If the sub
 receiver is on, you'll be able to listen to both your receive and
 transmit frequencies in receive mode. Hold SPLIT to turn split mode on
 or off.
 
 Can someone explain what the manual is trying to say here and how
 VFOA/B is being assigned to the subrx in diversity/split?  Is the
 subrx always assigned to VFOB or is there more flexibility than this?
 
 Thanks  73,
 Barry N1EU
-- 
It came to me that reform should begin at home, and since that day I have
not had time to remake the world. -Will Durant, historian (1885-1981)


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] clarification on VFO and 2nd Rx

2007-10-16 Thread Barry N1EU
On 10/16/07, David Ferrington, M0XDF [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 You might have seen my post asking for clarification too. I'm pretty sure
 KRX3 will always use VFOb and can not be switched at present.
 My understanding is that with the sub on, its audio goes to the right
 channel of the stereo output and VFOa's audio goes to the left channel.
 That's regardless of SPLIT or not.
 So in a pile-up, you can here both the freq when the op is working split.

To accommodate diversity reception, the K3 needs to be able to assign
different frequencies to the subreceiver and transmitter.  Sure, audio
from the two receivers can be tied down to separate L/R outputs.  But
it seems that the subreceiver needs to be assignable to vfoA OR vfoB.
I don't believe you could change vfoB frequency on the fly to swap
receive/transmit frequencies in diversity split because of settling
time and needs for fast qsk.

73,
Barry N1EU
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[Elecraft] RE: CW: Best low cost iambic key

2007-10-16 Thread Joe Hetrick

Rob; Define low cost

	The used Begalis go for about what a new.  Used Benchers are fairly  
easy to find in various states of dis-repair.  There are also the  
AzSqrpions paddle-kits that seem to have a solid look, I've been  
meaning to order one as a spare/travel paddle.


	If you don't mind fabrication and a lighter feel (though, since  
you're building it, you can tweak this) you could try one of the  
10.00 Jackson Harbor touch paddles.  Even though I have a Begali, and  
a Bencher, I've actually probably put more QSO's on my little JH  
Touch paddles since I spent a good part of the summer operating  
outside of my shack.  They take a bit of getting used to, but, I  
built mine into a little box and used dimes for the contacts.  I can  
hold the key in my lap and send.  At times it's very comfortable.


   I've a used bencher that I enjoyed, but, while I don't have a  
heavy fist, I like a solid feel.  I bought a Begali Simplex at  
Dayton;  New they're within 10 or 20.00 of a new Bencher, but, I like  
my Begali a whole lot, and I've loaned it out to several local CW ops  
who have also enjoyed it.


   I'm pretty sure I'll end up with one of the magnetic units from  
Begali this year at Dayton.  The craftsmanship is beautiful and the  
keys all feel great.


There are several others, N3ZN, there is an K8 whose call I forget,  
all look to be substantial and they all seem to fall in the  
100-200.00 price range.



73,

Joe KC0VKN
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[Elecraft] how about a touch key?

2007-10-16 Thread rlpend
I built a key kit from an article in QST November 2005, p. 28 and it 
works very well. It is silent and sensitive.

It is presumably still available as a kit from the author, WA3ENK
You provide the paddle material, coax cable,  and container.
I added a switch  as I think the battery will run down if left in place 
when not used--but I don't remember.
I added lead bullets to the plastic case i used case to serve as 
ballast.


bob N5JYW

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[Elecraft] off topic, Wanted Yaesu SP5 with Timewave dsp

2007-10-16 Thread Ed Rodriguez
Hi Gang, anyone willing to part with there Yaesu SP5 with Timewave dsp
If you willing to sell it please e mail me.. 

Thanks
Ed
Wp4o, Tampa, Fl
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] clarification on VFO and 2nd Rx

2007-10-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

David,

It may help if you mentally divorce the physical VFOs from the A and B 
designations and think of the DISPLAYED frequencies.


The main receiver will receive on whatever frequency is displayed on the 
VFO A readout, the sub-receiver (if installed) will receive on whatever 
frequency is displayed on VFO B.


When SPLIT is active, the above conditions are still true.  In SPLIT, 
transmit will take place on the frequency that is shown in the VFO B 
display.


How you alter the frequencies between the VFO A and VFO B is the result 
of the button pushing.  AB will make both VFOs the same - the contents 
of  VFO A are copied into both VFOs.  A/B will swap the contents between 
A and B.  While you hold REV, the contents of A and B are swapped only 
until you release the button.


In non-split operation, the A/B button will allow you to rapidly switch 
between two different transmit (and receive) frequencies.


Normal SPLIT operation *might* proceed something like this:  Tune to the 
frequency where you wish to transmit with VFO A (maybe you hear the 
station that the DX is currently working), then tap AB.  Now tune so 
you hear the DX station (with VFO A).  Press the REV button when you 
want to listen to your transmit frequency.  You can alter your transmit 
frequency by holding the REV button and tune (with VFO A knob) or by 
tapping A/B to swap, then re-tune and tap A/B again to swap back.  It 
works fine this way on the K2, but the K3 adds a separate knob for VFO B 
which will be helpful for refining the transmit frequency, especially 
when the sub-receiver is installed.


With the sub-receiver installed, it becomes more flexible because the 
sub-receiver will be tuned to your SPLIT transmit frequency and you can 
listen to that frequency in one ear if you have that selected.


There are a thousand other scenarios that are possible for split 
operation and perhaps others will offer their favorite operating 
patterns with it.


73,
Don W3FPR

David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

I seem to be very confused about the way VFOa and b control transmit and
want to get some clarification please.

If you are working split, you transmit on the freq, mode etc., set up in
VFOb - it uses VFOb for transmit. In this scenario, SPLIT, TX and v will be
shown to indicate you are transmitting on VFOb?


If you have the 2nd RX (KRX3) fitted and ON (SUB on), VFOb is used to
control it. In other words, the KRX3 module does not have VFO circuits on
it, it requires a VFO (B) to set it up etc.
All the other rules above apply though?

If the SUB is not on, its pretty much as first described?
Can you even turn on the SUB if its not fitted and if you can, what happens?


Finally, the [REV] button described on pg 15 as exchanging VFO a  b
temporarily - what does that mean - while you have it pressed it swaps and
if you release, they go back? If so, while you have it pressed and you Tx,
does if use VFOb settings?

Thank you Elecraft for making think about what is actually going on inside
my rig - please now help me to think about what is going on inside my head!
Hi 
  

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] clarification on VFO and 2nd Rx

2007-10-16 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Thank you Don, I kinda thought that was how it was and in typing the mail,
came to realise I need to think in terms as you stated. So then I just
wanted clarification.

I have on more question then - lets say I have the KRX3 (I will when it
ships :-). I'm working a split DX, there's one hell of a pile-up (must be
3B7C again). I'm using diversity receive, so I can hear both the DX freq and
their QSX, I want to transmit 300 Hz higher than I'm listening to on the Sub
- how does one do that quickly?

Perhaps use RIT on the SUB, is that possible - i.e., press [B SET] and set
RIT to be 300Hxz higher?

Then lets assume I don't work them, but want to check if they did listen
around where I transmitted, can I then press [REV] and while keeping it
depressed, HOLD [CLR] to add the RIT to the SUB freq and clear the RIT?

I know these are things I'll be able to figure out once I get the K3, but I
got to do something while I'm waiting for the Big Brown Van

On 16/10/07 14:18, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent:

 David,
 
 It may help if you mentally divorce the physical VFOs from the A and B
 designations and think of the DISPLAYED frequencies.


-- 
Any fool can destroy trees. They cannot defend themselves or run away. And
few destroyers of trees ever plant any; nor can planting avail much toward
restoring our grand aboriginal giants. It took more than three thousand
years to make some of the oldest of the Sequoias, trees that are still
standing in perfect strength and beauty, waving and singing in the mighty
forests of the Sierra. -John Muir, naturalist, explorer, and writer
(1838-1914)


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] clarification on VFO and 2nd Rx - erratum

2007-10-16 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Arrrhhh

For RIT below, read XIT


Thank you Don, I kinda thought that was how it was and in typing the mail,
came to realise I need to think in terms as you stated. So then I just
wanted clarification.

I have on more question then - lets say I have the KRX3 (I will when it
ships :-). I'm working a split DX, there's one hell of a pile-up (must be
3B7C again). I'm using diversity receive, so I can hear both the DX freq and
their QSX, I want to transmit 300 Hz higher than I'm listening to on the Sub
- how does one do that quickly?

Perhaps use RIT on the SUB, is that possible - i.e., press [B SET] and set
RIT to be 300Hxz higher?

Then lets assume I don't work them, but want to check if they did listen
around where I transmitted, can I then press [REV] and while keeping it
depressed, HOLD [CLR] to add the RIT to the SUB freq and clear the RIT?

I know these are things I'll be able to figure out once I get the K3, but I
got to do something while I'm waiting for the Big Brown Van

On 16/10/07 14:18, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent:

 David,
 
 It may help if you mentally divorce the physical VFOs from the A and B
 designations and think of the DISPLAYED frequencies.


-- 
Any fool can destroy trees. They cannot defend themselves or run away. And
few destroyers of trees ever plant any; nor can planting avail much toward
restoring our grand aboriginal giants. It took more than three thousand
years to make some of the oldest of the Sequoias, trees that are still
standing in perfect strength and beauty, waving and singing in the mighty
forests of the Sierra. -John Muir, naturalist, explorer, and writer
(1838-1914)


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Re: [Elecraft] CW: Best low cost iambic key?

2007-10-16 Thread Clark Macaulay
Several comments about liking the Hex Key have been made; I like mine, too 
(although not the Elecraft version). If the Hex Key is such a good key, then 
why is the Schurr key the one pictured with the K2 on the website?  
   
  Just wondering...
   
  Clark KE4RQ
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Re: [Elecraft] CW: Best low cost iambic key?

2007-10-16 Thread John D'Ausilio
I agree with Jeff .. I think it's the best bang for the buck

de w1rt/john

On 10/15/07, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I recently picked up a Begali Simplex. I absolutely love that key.

 http://www.i2rtf.com/html/simplex.html

 Cost-wise, it's hard to beat, and it's the smoothest key I've ever used.

 It's also very nice to look at...

 Jeff N6GQ

 On 10/15/07, Rob Lundahl [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Any recommendations for a low cost Iambic cw key?
 
  NV7F
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] clarification on VFO and 2nd Rx - erratum

2007-10-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

David,

I think the real answer to those extensions will have to wait until 
after the KRX3 ships.  I really don't know how RTI and XIT interact with 
the sub-receiver, nor have I though about how to best utilize it in 
situations like you have posed.


73,
Don W3FPR

David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

Arrrhhh

For RIT below, read XIT


Thank you Don, I kinda thought that was how it was and in typing the mail,
came to realise I need to think in terms as you stated. So then I just
wanted clarification.

I have on more question then - lets say I have the KRX3 (I will when it
ships :-). I'm working a split DX, there's one hell of a pile-up (must be
3B7C again). I'm using diversity receive, so I can hear both the DX freq and
their QSX, I want to transmit 300 Hz higher than I'm listening to on the Sub
- how does one do that quickly?

Perhaps use RIT on the SUB, is that possible - i.e., press [B SET] and set
RIT to be 300Hxz higher?

Then lets assume I don't work them, but want to check if they did listen
around where I transmitted, can I then press [REV] and while keeping it
depressed, HOLD [CLR] to add the RIT to the SUB freq and clear the RIT?

I know these are things I'll be able to figure out once I get the K3, but I
got to do something while I'm waiting for the Big Brown Van

On 16/10/07 14:18, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent:

  

David,

It may help if you mentally divorce the physical VFOs from the A and B
designations and think of the DISPLAYED frequencies.




  

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RE: [Elecraft] CW: Best low cost iambic key?

2007-10-16 Thread Darwin, Keith
Low cost - think used.  Used is always a better bargain than new.

I had Bencher BY-1  BY-2 paddles.  Loved them until I tried a Kent.
The Benchers are a bit squishy.  The Kent is a very solid, very nice
feeling paddle.  I got mine of e-Bay for about $90.  I see the Kents on
e-bay from time to time so they are available used.

That said, a used bencher is easy to come by and will be somewhere
around $60 or maybe less.  They're hard to beat at that price.

I hear lots of good things about the Begali Simplex paddles as well, but
again we're well over $100 for them.

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -
- K3 wave 3 -
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Time?

2007-10-16 Thread Gary D Krause


I'll speculate that it's not for financial reasons and
respectfully suggest that they not press beyond what's
good for the long haul on my account alone. ;-)

So, are you volunteering to move to the back of the line?  What a nice thing 
to do. ;-)


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Re: [Elecraft] CW Net Announcement

2007-10-16 Thread wd4lst
Hey Ron,
I fully support the existence of Elecraft Mojo, but with 120 radials (one every 
3 degrees?),
I think the mojo was trumped by the antenna setup. 
I am currently playing with a 160 meter inverted L, so the radials caught my 
attention.
Either way, good deal on the QNI 4000. 40 meters was out of the question for me 
here in FL on Sunday. Maybe next week...

73s,
Pete
 
 
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 10:45:57 -0400
From: Ron Polityka 


Wow, first time I checked into both the 20m and 40m net with my K2 @ 5 watts 
and I was # 4,000.
I worked Kevin on 40m with a ground mounted Butternut HF9V with 120 radials.

Elecraft Mojo!!

72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka


Pete Axson
WD4LST
17901 NE 18th Ave
Citra, FL 32113

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Re: [Elecraft] CW: Best low cost iambic key?

2007-10-16 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Good point.  That is an 8 year old picture that  we need to update.  I 
own both the Schurr shown and a Hexkey. I love them both :-)


I'll update it with the Hexkey after the K3 dust settles.

73, Eric  WA6HHQ
--

Clark Macaulay wrote:
Several comments about liking the Hex Key have been made; I like mine, too (although not the Elecraft version). If the Hex Key is such a good key, then why is the Schurr key the one pictured with the K2 on the website?  
   
  Just wondering...
   
  Clark KE4RQ
  

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[Elecraft] Re: K3: power supply for K3/100?

2007-10-16 Thread Benny Aumala

For home station, try to find Kenwood PS53 or 52.

For trips, specially flying, Gamma HPS-1a, look for
http://www.gammaresearch.net/hps-1a.html

Benny OH9NB

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FW: [Elecraft] CW: Best low cost iambic key?

2007-10-16 Thread Jerry T. Dowell
You never know until you try them.  The K8RA keys at:
 
http://www.k8ra.com/

I have one(P-4) and love it.
 
Different sizes for different people.
 
Dick, NJ9K  

I  bought a K8RA P-1 many years ago when they were somewhat cheaper. It
seems to work OK, but the workmanship left much to be desired. I now use a
Begali magnetic, which is a whole lot more expensive and a whole lot better
key. Perhaps the best bet for low cost would be a used Bencher. I got mine
for $20 at a swap meet, and it served well for many years.

Jerry   AI6L

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[Elecraft] Re: CW: Best low cost iambic key?

2007-10-16 Thread Benny Aumala

A very fine reputation and feeling I have found in these keys:

http://www.i1qod.it/prima.htm

http://www.xs4all.nl/~pa0fri/Diversen/Paddlekey/paddlekey.htm
My  MacPaddle mark IV was 150 Euros, but a personal negotiation is 
needed to get it,

and a timetable does not exist.

Worth of studying.

Benny OH9NB

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] clarification on VFO and 2nd Rx

2007-10-16 Thread Vic K2VCO

Don Wilhelm wrote:

How you alter the frequencies between the VFO A and VFO B is the result 
of the button pushing.  AB will make both VFOs the same - the contents 
of  VFO A are copied into both VFOs.  A/B will swap the contents between 
A and B.  While you hold REV, the contents of A and B are swapped only 
until you release the button.


In non-split operation, the A/B button will allow you to rapidly switch 
between two different transmit (and receive) frequencies.


When the sub-receiver becomes available, there will also be a special 
mode which allows you to 'slave' both VFOs to the main tuning knob. This 
will permit true diversity reception, with separate antennas on each 
receiver.


I am looking forward to trying this, perhaps with a vertical and 
horizontal antenna. Hopefully one signal will get stronger when the 
other QSBs!


I don't know what Wayne plans for the audio. In the years of AM, 
diversity setups compared AVC (that's what AGC used to be called) 
voltages and switched to the best signal. Of course you could listen to 
the two antennas in separate ears, but it would be interesting to 
somehow combine the audio signals so you would get a (relatively) 
QSB-free result.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] clarification on VFO and 2nd Rx

2007-10-16 Thread Bob Cunnings
For years here at my place of employment we've offered UHF diversity
receivers where, instead of  switching between the two signals, we
blend the audio outputs of the receivers in a ratio controlled by the
RF level of the received signals in the two receiver sections. Once
done using analog circuitry, we do it in the digital domain these
days. We refer to it as ratio combining diversity.

Bob NW8L

On 10/16/07, Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 I don't know what Wayne plans for the audio. In the years of AM,
 diversity setups compared AVC (that's what AGC used to be called)
 voltages and switched to the best signal. Of course you could listen to
 the two antennas in separate ears, but it would be interesting to
 somehow combine the audio signals so you would get a (relatively)
 QSB-free result.
 --
 73,
 Vic, K2VCO
 Fresno CA
 http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] CW: Best low cost iambic key?

2007-10-16 Thread Paul





Good point.  That is an 8 year old picture that  we need to 
update.  I own both the Schurr shown and a Hexkey. I love them both


I'll update it with the Hexkey after the K3 dust settles.

73, Eric  WA6HHQ


Of course you'll still be able to see the Schurr at www.N4LCD.com/k2



Clark Macaulay wrote:
Several comments about liking the Hex Key have been made; I like 
mine, too (although not the Elecraft version). If the Hex Key is 
such a good key, then why is the Schurr key the one pictured with 
the K2 on the website?


  Just wondering...

  Clark KE4RQ








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RE: [Elecraft] CW: Best low cost iambic key?

2007-10-16 Thread Michael Baker
Yep,
Try the Black Widow paddle made by Jerry Haigwood W5JS for $64 as a
kit.  Fun to finish any way you want it or just leave it alone in its rustic
brass finish.  Either way it's the best $250 paddle you can buy for $64.
I used a simple palm sander with fine sand paper and made a sort of
swirl pattern to the brass and just assembled it.  
It's now my favorite key replacing my old Bencher and Kent paddles
on the desk.

http://www.w5jh.net/Black_Widow.htm

Give it a look see.  I think you will like it so much you will want a second
one for portable use.

OH, I have SN#001. The new ones look nicer! :)

Michael Baker  K7DD
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rob Lundahl
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 3:08 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] CW: Best low cost iambic key?

Any recommendations for a low cost Iambic cw key?

NV7F
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[Elecraft] [K2] No RTTY Output

2007-10-16 Thread Ken Alexander
Hi Folks,

I reported this problem back in the spring but didn't
have time to act on it.  Forgive me as I re-state the
problem I'm having.

I have a K2 equipped with Don Wilhelm's constant audio
volume mod for digital operation (hope I described it
correctly, Don).  I also use a Tigertronics SL-1+
interface between my K2 and my notebook.

In LSB mode I'm able to transmit RTTY and PSK-31
without any problems.  When I change the K2 to RTTY
mode I get no transmitter output (receive works fine).
 The PTT indicator on the SL-1+ lights and the K2
receiver mutes, but there's no RF output indicated on
the K2's meter or an external power meter.

Cables and connections are fine, and as I mentioned,
simply switching to LSB gets me back on the air.

I don't get on the air as frequently as I'd like, and
at times sitting down with the K2 and using it is like
starting over from scratch.  So, there's a good
possibility that something's not set correctly. 
However, so far I haven't found a setting that would
disable RTTY output like that.

Can anyone help?

Thanks and 73,

Ken Alexander
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Wine Update Software

2007-10-16 Thread Nick Lidakis

Julian G4ILO wrote:

VMWare may be free, but XP isn't. And expecting non Windows users to
jump through technical hoops and buy a Microsoft OS just to run a
firmware loader does not seem to me to be reasonable.

I wonder how many Mac or Linux users out there have not ordered a K3
yet because of this issue?



I wouldn't. I think the open spirit of Amateur Radio go hand in hand 
with the open nature of the GNU principles of free software. Since Mac 
OSX and Linux are both POSIX compliant UNIX, all we would need is some 
simple command line program written in C to run from a terminal for the 
firmware uploads.


I would not, presently, buy a radio that I could not at least upload 
firmware with from my Linux box. I have been Windows free for the last 
seven years.


Nick N2SVT
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No RTTY Output

2007-10-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ken,

First, investigate the filter settings for RTTY with Spectrogram.  Be 
certain the FL1 positions are correct (use the OP1 filter and set the 
BFOs similar to those used for SSB FL1).  You may set the RTTY FL2, FL3, 
FL4 filters any way you wish, but FL1 must be set to OP1 and the BFOs 
correct for that filter.  The LSB settings (RTTY) will have the BFO 
positioned below the filter center frequency (typically the BFO 
frequency will be 4913.xx) and the USB BFO (RTTY-r) will be positioned 
above the crystal filter center (typical 4916.xx).  The .xx part of the 
frequency will vary depending on the exact filter center frequency.


Secondly, revisit the carrier balance adjustment on the KSB2 board - you 
can do that is SSB mode, but check using both LSB and USB - you may have 
to compromise a bit between the two.


After doing the above, check the K2 on RTTY again - if you have audio 
frequency tones going into the mic connector, it should work just the 
same as for SSB - and on both sidebands.


73,
Don W3FPR

Ken Alexander wrote:

Hi Folks,

I reported this problem back in the spring but didn't
have time to act on it.  Forgive me as I re-state the
problem I'm having.

I have a K2 equipped with Don Wilhelm's constant audio
volume mod for digital operation (hope I described it
correctly, Don).  I also use a Tigertronics SL-1+
interface between my K2 and my notebook.

In LSB mode I'm able to transmit RTTY and PSK-31
without any problems.  When I change the K2 to RTTY
mode I get no transmitter output (receive works fine).
 The PTT indicator on the SL-1+ lights and the K2
receiver mutes, but there's no RF output indicated on
the K2's meter or an external power meter.

Cables and connections are fine, and as I mentioned,
simply switching to LSB gets me back on the air.

I don't get on the air as frequently as I'd like, and
at times sitting down with the K2 and using it is like
starting over from scratch.  So, there's a good
possibility that something's not set correctly. 
However, so far I haven't found a setting that would

disable RTTY output like that.

Can anyone help?

Thanks and 73,

Ken Alexander
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Re: [Elecraft] CW: Best low cost iambic key?

2007-10-16 Thread Lamb, Dick Judy
There's another very inexpensive alternative not yet mentioned:   
touch key paddles.   For my purposes, mostly ragchewing at 25-30 wpm,  
I actually prefer touch key paddles.  There's no need to fuss with  
contacts and adjustments, and they react to a lighter touch than even  
the best and most expensive mechanical paddles.


I use Jackson Harbor's touch switch (kit), $11.50, postage paid.

http://home.att.net/~jacksonharbor/touchsw2.htm

I put the circuit board in a Radio Shack project box with dimes, one  
on each side, as the touch contacts.



CWtouchkeyer has a variety of kits and assembled units.

http://www.cwtouchkeyer.com/

There probably are other manufacturers offering kits and assembled  
units.



DIck, K0KK



On Oct 15, 2007, at 5:08 , Rob Lundahl wrote:


Any recommendations for a low cost Iambic cw key?

NV7F


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[Elecraft] Jota

2007-10-16 Thread Richard Kent
Another shameless plug:

As mentioned in another post, this weekend is Jamboree on the Air (JOTA).
This is a world scouting event for both boy and girl scouts. As with last
year my K2 will be the digital station at camp. These are the suggested
frequencies 3940, 7190, 14290, 18140, 21360, 24960, 28390, 50160 SSB and
3570, 7030, 14060, 18080, 21140, 24910, 28180, 50160 CW. I use the normal
places for the digital. Our calls will be WD8AJG(digital) or the Club call
W8VPV(SSB).I use my call because I have not figured out how to change the
call and not mess things up in the process. We will be on the air 9 to 5 EDT
others maybe longer. 

 

Tnx for the bandwidth

 

Richard Kent WD8AJG K2 5296

 

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RE: [Elecraft] Have we gone Off Track?

2007-10-16 Thread Darwin, Keith
Yea, I think we have.  Or at least the list has shifted and isn't the
same as it was.

It is the K3's fault.

Prior to the K3, we were all engaged in buying  building K1, K2, KX1
and mini-module units.  Now with the K3, I suspect most of us are on
hold.  We've ordered our K3 but are not ordering K1s, K2s, KX1s since we
need that money to pay for the K3.

My plans have changed.  I was planning on a K1.  Instead I'm in K3
limbo, waiting for my order to be filled.  I was planning on the DSP for
my K2 but no longer.  K3 will do that.

So with no building going on at my QTH there's nothing to talk about
except K3 deliveries, iambic paddles, and silly blonde jokes.

Will it ever come back?  Once the K3 gets out there I bet you'll see a
bunch of traffic about the assembly and operation of that rig.
Eventually the K3 wave will subside somewhat and you'll see more K1/2/X1
posts in the mix.  I bet it will take many months (years?) though.

Of course, when Elecraft comes out with the KPA800 and KPA1500 kits,
that will stir a bunch of kit building posts again.

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -
- K3 Wave 3 - 

-Original Message-
From: john-n4dsp

This reflector used to be a Gold Mine for builders. It was fun sifting
through it and learning what others were experiencing and solutions
being offered by the Ron, Don, and Tom.

Lately it has become a place to post comments and feelings and most of
the time nothing related to the reflector's original intention. Am I the
only one to notice this? 
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[Elecraft] [K2] K2/100 - where does all the hot air go?

2007-10-16 Thread Stephen Prior
I have the 100W amp mounted in an EC2 enclosure, all working great now, no
small thanks to Don!

I have a question.  The little fan on the back seems to push air into the
unit, yet there is no obvious exit for it.  Or am I missing something?
Almost seems like I need an automatic vent popping up at the front (that
little panel could lift) like the vent on the back of a Porsche!  Perhaps
replacing that little panel with a perforated one would help?

I'm a little surprised at how quickly the fan comes on (on cw, I haven't
used ssb yet), and also quite taken aback by its noise!

73 Stephen G4SJP



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[Elecraft] XV50: Off by 2.3 KHz

2007-10-16 Thread JT Croteau
Finished building and testing my XV50 a few days ago and just raised
the antenna this afternoon.  I have a zero-beat ofthe local beacon at
50066.60 MHz but the owner of the beacon assures me it is transmitting
on 50064.30 MHz.

Lacking any testing equipment, what can I do to better align this?  I
am pretty certain the K2 is properly aligned with WWV @ 10 MHz.

Thanks

-- 
JT Croteau, N1ESE - Manchester, NH (FN42gx)
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Is TX frequency susceptible to RF on chassis?

2007-10-16 Thread michael taylor
On 10/15/07, David Woolley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
...
 broadcast stations.  (Does anyone know a relatively accurate broadcast
 station, receivable in a noisy location in the UK, and near the high end
 of the VFO range?)

I there is or was the LDS station from School of Electronic and
Electrical Engineering, Leeds University on 5.000 MHz that is accurate
to around 1x10^(-12). Otherwise there is RWM from Russia is at 4.996,
9.996, 14.996 MHz.

-Michael, VE3TIX
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RE: [Elecraft] [K2] K2/100 - where does all the hot air go?

2007-10-16 Thread Darwin, Keith
Where does all the hot air go?

Why into the mic, of course 

LOL!

Actually, when the KPA is mounted in the rig, there is space along the
front of the heat sink, right where it meets the stubby little front
panel.  Probably the same in the EC2.

Yes, the fan (whizzer!) is loud and annoying.  I have a quiet muffin fan
I set on top of my heat sink to keep it cool and prevent the little
whizzer from coming on.

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -
- K3 Wave 3 -
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[Elecraft_K3] Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Wine Update Software

2007-10-16 Thread hank k8dd
I don't understand the w(h)ine level here . I believe that I would 
do what I had to to be able to use one of the best radios on the band.  
Even if it was an old laptop or PC for that purpose only.
Or 
I would not let a cheap PC  OS keep me from owning a K3.

73HankK8DD

Nick Lidakis wrote:
 Julian G4ILO wrote:
 VMWare may be free, but XP isn't. And expecting non Windows users to
 jump through technical hoops and buy a Microsoft OS just to run a
 firmware loader does not seem to me to be reasonable.

 I wonder how many Mac or Linux users out there have not ordered a K3
 yet because of this issue?


 I wouldn't. I think the open spirit of Amateur Radio go hand in hand 
 with the open nature of the GNU principles of free software. Since Mac 
 OSX and Linux are both POSIX compliant UNIX, all we would need is some 
 simple command line program written in C to run from a terminal for 
 the firmware uploads.

 I would not, presently, buy a radio that I could not at least upload 
 firmware with from my Linux box. I have been Windows free for the last 
 seven years.

 Nick N2SVT
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2/100 - where does all the hot air go?

2007-10-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Stephen,

The air exits just behind the front plate - through the fins of the heat 
sink.  There is lots of exit area, no need to worry.


As far as just how fast the fan comes on, that depends on the 
temperature (of the heat sink at the PA transistor locations).  CAL TPA 
must be set in the menu should be set correctly, and set the FAN 
parameter of the PA ON menu item to NORMAL (tap DISPLAY to toggle the 
fan settings).


Turning the power down will reduce the heating and delay the fan turn-on 
time G.


73,
Don W3FPR

Stephen Prior wrote:

I have the 100W amp mounted in an EC2 enclosure, all working great now, no
small thanks to Don!

I have a question.  The little fan on the back seems to push air into the
unit, yet there is no obvious exit for it.  Or am I missing something?
Almost seems like I need an automatic vent popping up at the front (that
little panel could lift) like the vent on the back of a Porsche!  Perhaps
replacing that little panel with a perforated one would help?

I'm a little surprised at how quickly the fan comes on (on cw, I haven't
used ssb yet), and also quite taken aback by its noise!

73 Stephen G4SJP


  

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[Elecraft] [K2] Problem with MH2 and K2/100

2007-10-16 Thread jmalloy
Hi, gang, I need your help.  I just received a new MH2 mike from 
Elecraft and intend it for eventual use on my third round K3 order.  In 
the meantime, I modified my K2 to use it -- the sheet included with the 
mike provided instructions for doing so and I added the resistor across 
pins 1 and 6 of the mike socket and use the header pins they provided. 
All went tickety-boo.  I used to use an old Icom hand mic which worked 
very well but I was looking forward to being all Elecraft (I have an 
Elecraft Hexkey, too!)


Well, darn if the thing is giving me trouble: it acts as if there's RF 
in the system but the mike socket is grounded and it even acts that way 
at low power; my watt meter shows approximately 40 watts of power when 
the mike key is depressed on LSB but -- get this -- no power is shown 
when it's on USB where it seems to work fine!


What should I check?  Help!

Thanks...

73,

Joe, W2RBA


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2/100 - where does all the hot air go?

2007-10-16 Thread Stephen Prior



On 16/10/07 20:55, Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Where does all the hot air go?
 
 Why into the mic, of course
 
 LOL!
 
I should have expected that!  In my defence of course, I can add that
although I have the mic plugged in, it hasn't been used yet!

Now that I have been prompted to look at it more closely, I can see where
the air can escape, as you say on the edge of the heatsink.  I think I shall
go look on eBay for a quiet fan to sit on top as you have done.  I'm using
headphones 99% of the time, and I can even hear the noise of that little fan
through those!  It's rather like the Jack Russell dog we have here, small
and noisy!  Maybe I should be using the noise cancelling Sennheisers I
bought for our trip to NZ this year, trouble is I hate to feel excluded from
the sounds of the outside world (I might miss the offer of a coffee or
something!).

Thanks for the steer

73 Stephen G4SJP



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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Problem with MH2 and K2/100

2007-10-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Joe,

I am not certain why the Elecraft mike would have that kind of problem 
and not the Icom mic.  I have trouble believing it has anything to do 
with the particular mike.


Get out the computer and Spectrogram (or similar tool) and check the 
position of the IF filter passband for both LSB and USB when in the FL1 
filter position.  If you have the 2.4 kHz wide SSB filter center the 
passband between Spectrogram markers set at 300 and 2600 Hz, if you have 
the older 2.1 kHz filter, use 300 and 2300 Hz, and if you have the wide 
2.6 kHz filter use 300 and 2900 Hz markers.  Note that the lower marker 
does not change - it should always be 300 Hz.


Once the passband positions are correct, do the carrier balance 
adjustment.  You can do it as instructed in the manual, or if you have a 
means of measuring small RF voltages (like with a 'scope), you can plug 
in a key (no mic connected), set for LSB then hold the dot side of the 
paddles (DOT and PTT are the same line inside the K2), and adjust the 
pot for minimum RF voltage.  Check USB and if necessary, tweak the 
balance pot for a compromise between LSB and USB.


After those adjustments are complete, check the mic operation again.  If 
you still have trouble, you may want to check for 'RF in the shack' (but 
I would think that should be a problem with both sidebands).


73,
Don W3FPR


jmalloy wrote:
Hi, gang, I need your help.  I just received a new MH2 mike from 
Elecraft and intend it for eventual use on my third round K3 order.  
In the meantime, I modified my K2 to use it -- the sheet included with 
the mike provided instructions for doing so and I added the resistor 
across pins 1 and 6 of the mike socket and use the header pins they 
provided. All went tickety-boo.  I used to use an old Icom hand mic 
which worked very well but I was looking forward to being all Elecraft 
(I have an Elecraft Hexkey, too!)


Well, darn if the thing is giving me trouble: it acts as if there's RF 
in the system but the mike socket is grounded and it even acts that 
way at low power; my watt meter shows approximately 40 watts of power 
when the mike key is depressed on LSB but -- get this -- no power is 
shown when it's on USB where it seems to work fine!


What should I check?  Help!


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Re: [Elecraft] Have we gone Off Track?

2007-10-16 Thread Dave Martin
 Lately it has become a place to post comments and feelings and most of
 the time nothing related to the reflector's original intention. Am I the
 only one to notice this?

Fred has Rag Chew Central and Talk and Opinions forums at QRZ.COM.
 That might be a better place for all the balderdash we've been having
to sort through.  Our guys wouldn't have the audience they desire
though, but at least it would be a willing audience I suppose.

Dave
W5DHM
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Re: [Elecraft] Have we gone Off Track?

2007-10-16 Thread David Wilburn
Is the beacon generating a specific tone?  WWV generates 500, and 600 
Hz tones, as well as others.  Spectrogram can be used to calibrate if 
a tone is available from the beacon.  N0SS site has downloads of the 
last shareware version.



David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982
FP#-1751


Darwin, Keith wrote:

Yea, I think we have.  Or at least the list has shifted and isn't the
same as it was.

It is the K3's fault.

Prior to the K3, we were all engaged in buying  building K1, K2, KX1
and mini-module units.  Now with the K3, I suspect most of us are on
hold.  We've ordered our K3 but are not ordering K1s, K2s, KX1s since we
need that money to pay for the K3.

My plans have changed.  I was planning on a K1.  Instead I'm in K3
limbo, waiting for my order to be filled.  I was planning on the DSP for
my K2 but no longer.  K3 will do that.

So with no building going on at my QTH there's nothing to talk about
except K3 deliveries, iambic paddles, and silly blonde jokes.

Will it ever come back?  Once the K3 gets out there I bet you'll see a
bunch of traffic about the assembly and operation of that rig.
Eventually the K3 wave will subside somewhat and you'll see more K1/2/X1
posts in the mix.  I bet it will take many months (years?) though.

Of course, when Elecraft comes out with the KPA800 and KPA1500 kits,
that will stir a bunch of kit building posts again.

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -
- K3 Wave 3 - 


-Original Message-
From: john-n4dsp

This reflector used to be a Gold Mine for builders. It was fun sifting
through it and learning what others were experiencing and solutions
being offered by the Ron, Don, and Tom.

Lately it has become a place to post comments and feelings and most of
the time nothing related to the reflector's original intention. Am I the
only one to notice this? 
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Re: [Elecraft] XV50: Off by 2.3 KHz

2007-10-16 Thread David Wilburn
Sorry, this was the XV50 thread.  I replied to the wrong one.  I 
changed this subject to match.


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982
FP#-1751


David Wilburn wrote:
Is the beacon generating a specific tone?  WWV generates 500, and 600 Hz 
tones, as well as others.  Spectrogram can be used to calibrate if a 
tone is available from the beacon.  N0SS site has downloads of the last 
shareware version.



David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982
FP#-1751


Darwin, Keith wrote:

Yea, I think we have.  Or at least the list has shifted and isn't the
same as it was.

It is the K3's fault.

Prior to the K3, we were all engaged in buying  building K1, K2, KX1
and mini-module units.  Now with the K3, I suspect most of us are on
hold.  We've ordered our K3 but are not ordering K1s, K2s, KX1s since we
need that money to pay for the K3.

My plans have changed.  I was planning on a K1.  Instead I'm in K3
limbo, waiting for my order to be filled.  I was planning on the DSP for
my K2 but no longer.  K3 will do that.

So with no building going on at my QTH there's nothing to talk about
except K3 deliveries, iambic paddles, and silly blonde jokes.

Will it ever come back?  Once the K3 gets out there I bet you'll see a
bunch of traffic about the assembly and operation of that rig.
Eventually the K3 wave will subside somewhat and you'll see more K1/2/X1
posts in the mix.  I bet it will take many months (years?) though.

Of course, when Elecraft comes out with the KPA800 and KPA1500 kits,
that will stir a bunch of kit building posts again.

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -
- K3 Wave 3 -
-Original Message-
From: john-n4dsp

This reflector used to be a Gold Mine for builders. It was fun sifting
through it and learning what others were experiencing and solutions
being offered by the Ron, Don, and Tom.

Lately it has become a place to post comments and feelings and most of
the time nothing related to the reflector's original intention. Am I the
only one to notice this? ___
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Re: [Elecraft] Have we gone Off Track?

2007-10-16 Thread Fred Jensen

Darwin, Keith wrote:

Yea, I think we have.  Or at least the list has shifted and isn't the
same as it was.


Hmmm ... the list has changed some, but you're right, the K3 both upped 
the volume of postings just a little :-) and the fact that no one is 
building them yet may have led to a bit more idle chatter, maybe out 
of boredom waiting, although if that's the case, some folks may have too 
much idle time on their hands ;-)


Honestly however, I see lots of non-K3 Elecraft product and building 
questions, all answered by the usual suspects [we all know who they 
are, don't we].  I've also found this list to be a great source of info 
about related stuff ... like the recent question about keyer paddle 
options, likes, and dislikes, and the huge number of responses.  I have 
two Benchers I'm sort of happy with, but after seeing all the posts and 
hitting the URL's that many of them contained, I believe I'm going to 
upgrade.  Andrea has been spending on her hobby quite a bit lately, and 
under our Equal Hobby Allowance policy, each buck means a buck in my 
radio account.  I might not have enough for a solid platinum Begali, but 
I'm closing in.


I'm sure Eric will advise us if things are getting out of hand.  BTW, 
the new web archive is pretty cool.  I may set my reflector option to 
no mail as soon as I find my password.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2008 Cal QSO Party  4-5 Oct 08
- www.cqp.org
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[Elecraft] K3 Wiki

2007-10-16 Thread Don Rasmussen
One day I'd like to see a K3 wiki.

Contributer experts could weigh in on individual
topics such as:

* DSP/AGC - suggested settings based on band, mode,
signal strength. 
* Diversity receive - how to best use the subreceiver.
N1EU stuff. 
* Noise Blanking - settings based on the noise source.

* Transverter topics - how to hook up a Down East
Microwave device, etc. 
* Bandscope and SoftRock - how to keep noise off both
ends of the connection. New bandscope solutions.
* Interfacing hardware from other manufacturers - Band
Pass filters, Noise cancellers, digital. 
* RS232 Control and programs. 
* Contest configurations, software and hardware. 
* ESSB - and wide standard mode SSB, AM. 
* Binaural effects.
* Many other topics that could be addressed starting
from an introductory level up to advanced and specific
cases.

I'm not offering to host this but do see the value of
having a common, user maintained K3 resource outside
of the Elecraft list and outside of the
www.elecraft.com K3 FAQ.
Having one place to reference first, before going
through megabytes of archives looking for that needle
in a haystack would be a real time saver and might
even take some K3 traffic off the reflector. 


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RE: [Elecraft] RE: CW: Best low cost iambic key

2007-10-16 Thread RJD
FYI:
 
http://www.k8ra.com/
 
Dick, NJ9K

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Joe Hetrick
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 12:08
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] RE: CW: Best low cost iambic key

Rob; Define low cost

The used Begalis go for about what a new.  Used Benchers are fairly  
easy to find in various states of dis-repair.  There are also the  
AzSqrpions paddle-kits that seem to have a solid look, I've been  
meaning to order one as a spare/travel paddle.

If you don't mind fabrication and a lighter feel (though, since  
you're building it, you can tweak this) you could try one of the  
10.00 Jackson Harbor touch paddles.  Even though I have a Begali, and  
a Bencher, I've actually probably put more QSO's on my little JH  
Touch paddles since I spent a good part of the summer operating  
outside of my shack.  They take a bit of getting used to, but, I  
built mine into a little box and used dimes for the contacts.  I can  
hold the key in my lap and send.  At times it's very comfortable.

I've a used bencher that I enjoyed, but, while I don't have a  
heavy fist, I like a solid feel.  I bought a Begali Simplex at  
Dayton;  New they're within 10 or 20.00 of a new Bencher, but, I like  
my Begali a whole lot, and I've loaned it out to several local CW ops  
who have also enjoyed it.

I'm pretty sure I'll end up with one of the magnetic units from  
Begali this year at Dayton.  The craftsmanship is beautiful and the  
keys all feel great.

There are several others, N3ZN, there is an K8 whose call I forget,  
all look to be substantial and they all seem to fall in the  
100-200.00 price range.


73,

Joe KC0VKN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Wiki

2007-10-16 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
YES - forget forums - run it all on Twiki - we run my entire team in Twiki,
and although that team only consists of 6 of us, we service ~ 500 people.



On 16/10/07 23:50, Don Rasmussen [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent:

 One day I'd like to see a K3 wiki.
 
 Contributer experts could weigh in on individual
 topics such as:
 
 * DSP/AGC - suggested settings based on band, mode,
 signal strength. 
 * Diversity receive - how to best use the subreceiver.
 N1EU stuff. 
 * Noise Blanking - settings based on the noise source.
 
 * Transverter topics - how to hook up a Down East
 Microwave device, etc.
 * Bandscope and SoftRock - how to keep noise off both
 ends of the connection. New bandscope solutions.
 * Interfacing hardware from other manufacturers - Band
 Pass filters, Noise cancellers, digital.
 * RS232 Control and programs.
 * Contest configurations, software and hardware.
 * ESSB - and wide standard mode SSB, AM.
 * Binaural effects.
 * Many other topics that could be addressed starting
 from an introductory level up to advanced and specific
 cases.
 
 I'm not offering to host this but do see the value of
 having a common, user maintained K3 resource outside
 of the Elecraft list and outside of the
 www.elecraft.com K3 FAQ.
 Having one place to reference first, before going
 through megabytes of archives looking for that needle
 in a haystack would be a real time saver and might
 even take some K3 traffic off the reflector.
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Wiki

2007-10-16 Thread Thom LaCosta

On Tue, 16 Oct 2007, Don Rasmussen wrote:


One day I'd like to see a K3 wiki.



InterestingJulian and I started a forum to cover such discussions...lots of 
folks have signed up, few have posted.


I'm hesitant to start a Wiki, based on the lack of support for a web based 
froum.


One of the problem with the Wiki is that anyone can post to it and anyone can 
change th posts of others...and so who would stand up and volunteer to ride herd

to insure that all the information posted was correct.

73 - Thom K3HRN
Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Wiki

2007-10-16 Thread lyle johnson
One of the problem with the Wiki is that anyone can post to it and anyone 
can change the posts of others...


Not necessarily.  The HPSDR wiki and AMSAT's Eaglepedia are two examples of 
ham-related wikis lwhich imit access for posting/editing, but provide 
unlimited access for viewing.


73,

Lyle KK7P
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[Elecraft] Have we gone Off Track?

2007-10-16 Thread Ralph Tyrrell
Hi All:

This reflector used to be a Gold Mine for builders.
It was fun sifting through it and learning what others
were experiencing and solutions

This is still a great place to mine for Elecraft
product info,  yes mining is a bit more difficult, but
great results are still available.

I was planning on building a K2. Since May I have been
looking at Don's (and others) replys to K2 builders
with problems. I have a large file of info and am now
ready to bulild a K2.

Now for my problem. My wife wants me to get a K3
instead of the K2. Anyone else with this kind of
problem?

73, Ty, W1TF
K1 #1423


   

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[Elecraft] Re: CW: Best low cost iambic key?

2007-10-16 Thread Ken Miller, K6CTW
My vote for an inexpensive, and very nice feeling paddle, for Iambic 
keying, is the Code Warrior Junior by Vibroplex


http://www.vibroplex.com/code_warrior_junior.html

I have one mounted on cell phone hardware in my car and use it daily.  
I'd use my Blue Racer bug (1965) but the bumps send too many dits ;-)



Good luck, 73 - Ken Miller, K6CTW


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No RTTY Output

2007-10-16 Thread Ken Alexander
Thanks, Don.

HHmmm...now I wish I could have built my K2.  I'd have
a better idea of what you're talking about.  

This sounds like a project for Saturday afternoon.  I
read through the SSB adapter manual this afternoon, so
it's not as intimidating sounding as I first thought. 
Nevertheless, I'll make sure my fridge is full of beer
before I start on this!

73 - Ken


--- Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Ken,
 
 First, investigate the filter settings for RTTY with
 Spectrogram.  Be 
 certain the FL1 positions are correct (use the OP1
 filter and set the 
 BFOs similar to those used for SSB FL1).  You may
 set the RTTY FL2, FL3, 
 FL4 filters any way you wish, but FL1 must be set to
 OP1 and the BFOs 
 correct for that filter.  The LSB settings (RTTY)
 will have the BFO 
 positioned below the filter center frequency
 (typically the BFO 
 frequency will be 4913.xx) and the USB BFO (RTTY-r)
 will be positioned 
 above the crystal filter center (typical 4916.xx). 
 The .xx part of the 
 frequency will vary depending on the exact filter
 center frequency.
 
 Secondly, revisit the carrier balance adjustment on
 the KSB2 board - you 
 can do that is SSB mode, but check using both LSB
 and USB - you may have 
 to compromise a bit between the two.
 
 After doing the above, check the K2 on RTTY again -
 if you have audio 
 frequency tones going into the mic connector, it
 should work just the 
 same as for SSB - and on both sidebands.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Ken Alexander wrote:
  Hi Folks,
 
  I reported this problem back in the spring but
 didn't
  have time to act on it.  Forgive me as I re-state
 the
  problem I'm having.
 
  I have a K2 equipped with Don Wilhelm's constant
 audio
  volume mod for digital operation (hope I described
 it
  correctly, Don).  I also use a Tigertronics SL-1+
  interface between my K2 and my notebook.
 
  In LSB mode I'm able to transmit RTTY and PSK-31
  without any problems.  When I change the K2 to
 RTTY
  mode I get no transmitter output (receive works
 fine).
   The PTT indicator on the SL-1+ lights and the K2
  receiver mutes, but there's no RF output indicated
 on
  the K2's meter or an external power meter.
 
  Cables and connections are fine, and as I
 mentioned,
  simply switching to LSB gets me back on the air.
 
  I don't get on the air as frequently as I'd like,
 and
  at times sitting down with the K2 and using it is
 like
  starting over from scratch.  So, there's a good
  possibility that something's not set correctly. 
  However, so far I haven't found a setting that
 would
  disable RTTY output like that.
 
  Can anyone help?
 
  Thanks and 73,
 
  Ken Alexander
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[Elecraft] RE: CW: Best low cost iambic key

2007-10-16 Thread Arnie Grubbs

You might want to look over the Morse Express web pages..

http://www.mtechnologies.com/keys.htm

They have a list of keys from about $10.00 on up to $1500.00

I like the Palm Radio paddle and keyers for use when away from the shack..
Otherwise I have a bencher paddle I use at home.

Hope that helps.. 
73 - Arnie KA0NCR



   

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Wine Update Software

2007-10-16 Thread Jack Brindle
There is a huge difference between the old battery-backed memory and  
using Flash memory. As you note, the battery will eventually run  
down, causing memory to be lost. Flash memory will retain its  
contents for a very long period - Microchip specifies this at 40  
years minimum, 100 years typical. This is actually comparable to the  
EPROM memory in the One-Time Programmable chips used in the K2, and  
much longer than anything backed by battery. Parameters in the chips  
are stored in EEPROM memory, which also is specified at 40 years  
minimum, also much longer than the battery-backed systems.


I seriously doubt you will ever see the chip die from memory loss.  
More likely the reason you would want to reprogram it will be to gain  
new features as Wayne releases them. This is true whether the radio  
is a K3, K2, K1, KX1 or anything else that Elecraft might dream up.



On Oct 15, 2007, at 10:40 PM, Leigh L. Klotz, Jr. wrote:

For me, the issue isn't finding some Windows laptop to update the  
K3 with. That's easy enough.
My concern is that eventually, there will be a need to reload the  
K3's firmware, and the version of Windows it's for might not be  
there.  Think of the timescale of ham radio vs. the timescale of  
Windows releases.


There are Japanese ham radios from the 1980's which are now bricked  
because config memory settings were lost when the battery went dead.


It's not important right now, but eventually, having an open way to  
reload the firmware will be important.


That's not the same as saying that the firmware itself needs to be  
open; it just should be possible to restore the radio to it's  
original state without having to find a 20 or 30 year old laptop.


The K2 doesn't have this problem because its firmware isn't writable.

73,
Leigh/WA5ZNU
David Wilburn wrote:
A recent thread mentioned update options, but I did not see any  
new news.  Has anyone tried the K3 update software using Wine  
under Linux?

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- Jack Brindle, W6FB
 
-




Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Wine Update Software

2007-10-16 Thread Mike S

At 02:46 AM 10/16/2007, Jack Brindle wrote...

There is a huge difference between the old battery-backed memory and
using Flash memory. As you note, the battery will eventually run
down, causing memory to be lost. Flash memory will retain its
contents for a very long period - Microchip specifies this at 40
years minimum, 100 years typical.


But, they don't know that as a fact, and make lots of assumptions when 
making those claims. The chips have obviously not been around over 100 
years to make that claim true. Ask Microchip if they will stand behind 
those claims, and provide you with replacement chips in 39 years if the 
flash memory fails at that time.



I seriously doubt you will ever see the chip die from memory loss.


Well, I can tell you that the Motorola microcontroller in my (and many 
others') Audi instrument cluster died due to failed flash memory, and 
after only a couple of years, not the 40-100 years the manufacturers 
guess and hope they will be good for. Motorola shipped a batch of bad 
chips. Firmware files are not available from anywhere, and Audi charges 
$800+ for a replacement, even though I have the ability to program a 
$20 chip myself.


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