RE: [Elecraft] Co-ax for the K2
You can slip the black coax inside a white tube such as white plastic tubing at Home Depot for water lines. Or use white RG6. It is low loss and even though 75 ohm it will work quite well. I use it for 80 and 160M with 1500W. I don't think it will last as long outside as coax made to be UV resistant, but it may solve your problem. 73, N2TK, Tony -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Art Horne Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:50 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Co-ax for the K2 Greetings, Can anyone recommend a WHITE coax for antenna lead of about 40-50' ? My XYL is very fussy about wires showing and black sticks out like a sore thumb. Would the coax used by TV cable installers work ok? I'm only running 100 W max. That's the only white coax I've seen. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 73's, Art K6KFH No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.30/1126 - Release Date: 11/12/2007 12:56 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc
Top banders use RG6 all the time and run full bore (and then some) through it. At 1 Mhz, it is rated at 4kw. If you're only interested in 100 watts output (you didn't say what frequency you operate), you're good to go with RG6 up to 1GHz. The white stuff is so cheap, you can replace it every 5 years if you want to be conservative with concerns about UV deterioration. http://www.therfc.com/powerrat.htm de Doug KR2Q PS...you can always paint black coax using exterior paint. Mine gets painted for free every time the house is repainted. LOL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 first test question
Werner, If you connect only the KPA100, the stock inductor is usually fine. If you have aspirations to add the KAT100, or the Elecraft transverters, then you should replace the stock inductor. About 12 turns of wire on a small ferrite toroid core should work nicely. 73, Don W3FPR Dr. Werner Furlan wrote: hi Chuck, On 12 Nov 2007 at 17:05, Chuck Gehring wrote: I believe that the modification that Bill is referring to is found on the following web pages http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html#KAT100 And not in the Elecraft manuals I think you are referring to the part where he shows a circuit if you don't have the KIO2 installed. There he says: The inductors can be any small 15 uH nominal part, such as DigiKey M7827. These are rated at 150 mA. The KAT100 only uses this for a very low current, so it should be suitable for all three inductors. The KPA100 may draw more current than this, so if you plan on using this cable for anything other than a KAT100, you may want to consider a higher current rating on inductor L1. I suggest at least 250 mA. You may wind such an inductor using the directions given above. Any comment on this from others who have the same setting with the KPA100 in the EC2 enclosure? Do I really have to modify my KIO2? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Rally help wanted. Mayo Radio Rally Ireland 18th November
The Mayo Radio Experimenters network is having it's annual Radio rally on the 18ht of November in the Belmont Hotel in Knock Co Mayo. Doors open at 11 Am (to the public..) I have volunteered to put on an Elecraft stand. I would very much like some help from other EI / GI Elecraft owners on the day. It's been a couple of years since we ran an elecraft stand at the Mayo rally but now that there's the new K3 and very favourable exchange rates to entice new elecraft owners it's time to do it again. In return for helping out with the stand you get to play with my K3/100 which I plan to have on an antenna for the day, meet face to face with other elecraft owners, look at ( in?) each others radios and share advice on any problems you may be having. An additional benefit is being able to get into the rally at no charge and to get in before the doors open to the public. It would be great if you can bring your elecraft stuff for display on the day. Anyone interested in helping out can contact me via E-mail at [EMAIL PROTECTED] or by phone to +353 (0)86 2501832 Please let me know in advance if you are intending to come and help out so that I can arrange admission. 73's Brendan EI6IZ -- Don‘t complain. Nobody will understand. Or care. And certainly don‘t try to fix the situation yourself. It‘s dangerous. Leave it to a highly untrained, unqualified, expendable professional. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc
RG6 is 75 ohm cable. Why would you buy a great radio and worry about performance,then go use the wrong cable. You start out at a 1.5:1 swr. Idon't get it. kf4yox - Original Message - From: DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 6:28 AM Subject: [Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc Top banders use RG6 all the time and run full bore (and then some) through it. At 1 Mhz, it is rated at 4kw. If you're only interested in 100 watts output (you didn't say what frequency you operate), you're good to go with RG6 up to 1GHz. The white stuff is so cheap, you can replace it every 5 years if you want to be conservative with concerns about UV deterioration. http://www.therfc.com/powerrat.htm de Doug KR2Q PS...you can always paint black coax using exterior paint. Mine gets painted for free every time the house is repainted. LOL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc
You use it because of 2 characteristics. 1) It has lower loss than an equal physical size 50 ohm cable - and that is true even considering the added loss due to mismatch. 2) It is conviently available and inexpensive. Considering the added loss due to a 1.5 SWR, look at the charts. If the matched line loss is 2 dB, the loss when the SWR is 1.5 is only 2.1 dB. Even if the matched line loss is 10 dB, having an SWR of 1.5 adds only 0.2 dB to the total loss. A 1.5 SWR is insignificant when considering line loss, especially at HF. The facts do not support the popular view that an SWR any higher than 1.0 is a bad thing. In most cases, a transmission line SWR of 2.0 or below will work fine. Now, there is another part to consider - the feedpoint impedance at the output of a transceiver may have to be transformed to something closer to 50 ohms for proper, full power operation of the PA - but that is the job of a tuner, it has nothing to do with feedline loss beyond the tuner. Unfortunately, these two parameters get mixed together and the result is 'numerical soup'. 73, Don W3FPR Samuel Strongin wrote: RG6 is 75 ohm cable. Why would you buy a great radio and worry about performance,then go use the wrong cable. You start out at a 1.5:1 swr. Idon't get it. kf4yox ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc
-Original Message- From: Samuel Strongin [EMAIL PROTECTED] RG6 is 75 ohm cable. Why would you buy a great radio and worry about performance,then go use the wrong cable. You start out at a 1.5:1 swr. Because RG-6 may not be the wrong cable, and the SWR may not be 1.5 to 1. IMHO, the question of what cable to use requires evaluating the entire antenna/transmission line *system* and taking all the issues into account. Depending on the antenna impedance, frequency, length of line and comparison coax, RG-6 might be lower loss than 50 ohm line (say, RG-58 or even RG-8X). For example, suppose I had a wire dipole at a height such that the feedpoint Z was 75 ohms, and it needed a long feedline to reach the shack. Feed it with RG-6 and the SWR on the line will be 1:1. All I need to do is match that 75 ohms to 50 ohms at the shack, which can be done with an unun or the ATU in the rig. With 50 ohm cable the load SWR will be 1.5 to 1, and I'll probably still need to match it at the shack end - but the shack-end Z can be anything inside the 1.5 to 1 SWR circle on the Smith Chart. Depending on the line used, the loss with 50 ohm cable may be greater, too. 73 de Jim, N2EY Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc
I have a great idea don't use the proper cable at all just use the cheapest piece of junk and try to justify it. The fact of the matter 1.5 does matter.For example Icom radios fold back when seeing a swr of 1.5 to one. CHEAP is not a reason to use something yes it will work so what. Is it the proper cable to use no. Rg6 gives you a starting loss at 1.5. Rg 59 will work to on 75 meters it will even handle some power would I use it No. Good luck using the wrong cable. We don't have pi networks any more. Solid state devices want to see the proper load. They arn't rated 50-75 ohms. Yes it will work so will a coat hanger with a tuner as antenna. - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Samuel Strongin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 9:10 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc You use it because of 2 characteristics. 1) It has lower loss than an equal physical size 50 ohm cable - and that is true even considering the added loss due to mismatch. 2) It is conviently available and inexpensive. Considering the added loss due to a 1.5 SWR, look at the charts. If the matched line loss is 2 dB, the loss when the SWR is 1.5 is only 2.1 dB. Even if the matched line loss is 10 dB, having an SWR of 1.5 adds only 0.2 dB to the total loss. A 1.5 SWR is insignificant when considering line loss, especially at HF. The facts do not support the popular view that an SWR any higher than 1.0 is a bad thing. In most cases, a transmission line SWR of 2.0 or below will work fine. Now, there is another part to consider - the feedpoint impedance at the output of a transceiver may have to be transformed to something closer to 50 ohms for proper, full power operation of the PA - but that is the job of a tuner, it has nothing to do with feedline loss beyond the tuner. Unfortunately, these two parameters get mixed together and the result is 'numerical soup'. 73, Don W3FPR Samuel Strongin wrote: RG6 is 75 ohm cable. Why would you buy a great radio and worry about performance,then go use the wrong cable. You start out at a 1.5:1 swr. Idon't get it. kf4yox ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Test, please ignore.
Sorry for bandwidth, test via different Server. 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Co-ax for the K2
Don and All, I agree that many of the RG-59 and RG-6 coax available will work just fine. In two cases I found RG-59 CATV-type coax purchased at a big box store that showed real signs of heat-stress after a few months of operation at 100+ watts. My observation is that quality and suitability of typical RG-59 CATV-type coax varies widely. Some, certainly not *all*, may not be suitable for amateur transmission service. And I'm quite sure that when the stuff sold in poly bags and off the racks in the mass-merchandisers was manufactured, the materials selected was *not* based on its ability to handle 100 watts or more of rf. Doug -- K0DXV I Don Wilhelm wrote: Doug, I beg to differ. There are physical properties that give rise to the characteristic impedance which are related to the dielectric properties and the relative conductor diameters for the center conductor and the braid. These same properties will create a particular RF voltage handling characteristic for the coax in question (or any coax for that matter). The real difference in coax quality is the shielding percentage of the outer braid. That has nothing to do with the RF voltage handling, but it certainly has a lot to do with the leakage from the coax. In the extreme, a coaxial cable could have similar leakage characteristics as open wire line, but again that is not related to the RF voltage handling characteristics. So look for a coax that has 90% or greater braid coverage. There is the 'quad shield' RG6 that is quite good in shielding characteristics, but I do not know if it is available in white jacket material. As it has been mentioned, the white jacket is not as UV protective as the black, so for use indoors, it really does not matter, but outside, use the cable jacket that is rated for UV protection. 73, Don W3FPR Doug Person wrote: There are many types of cable designated RG-6 and RG-59. Many are not designed to handle rf voltages typical of ham transmissions. My suggestion is to be *careful* what you select. Good quality RG-59, the type broadly used by hams many years ago, is hard to find right now. We're not talking about what the cable companies are using - we're talking about what you can buy at Wal-Mart or Home Depot. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc
Samuel, Because a radio is poorly made and starts shutting back at an swr of 1.5:1 does not mean that the coax cable is not efficiently transferring the power to the antenna. Many superstations use 75 ohm hardline obtained from cable companies and those stations get out just fine, ok they get out better than fine. Radio shack used to sell some RG-8 cable that was cheap. The braid, if you were lucky, covered 50 percent of the dielectric. There is cheap coax out there. I have purchased 1000's of feet of RG-6U at Home depot and it is high quality belden cable. SWR is not loss. SWR is a standing wave ratio. Just because you have 50 ohm coax does not mean that you have 50 ohms at the end of that coax. An SWR of 1:1 does not guarantee that you have maximized the power transfer from the rig to the antenna. If just means that the rig is seeing a 50 ohm load. You can cut a piece of coax at a particular length that will make a poorly matched antenna fool the radio into thinking there is a good match. The SWR will be low but the antenna will not work very well. On 11/13/07 8:16 AM, Samuel Strongin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a great idea don't use the proper cable at all just use the cheapest piece of junk and try to justify it. The fact of the matter 1.5 does matter.For example Icom radios fold back when seeing a swr of 1.5 to one. CHEAP is not a reason to use something yes it will work so what. Is it the proper cable to use no. Rg6 gives you a starting loss at 1.5. Rg 59 will work to on 75 meters it will even handle some power would I use it No. Good luck using the wrong cable. We don't have pi networks any more. Solid state devices want to see the proper load. They arn't rated 50-75 ohms. Yes it will work so will a coat hanger with a tuner as antenna. - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Samuel Strongin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 9:10 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc You use it because of 2 characteristics. 1) It has lower loss than an equal physical size 50 ohm cable - and that is true even considering the added loss due to mismatch. 2) It is conviently available and inexpensive. Considering the added loss due to a 1.5 SWR, look at the charts. If the matched line loss is 2 dB, the loss when the SWR is 1.5 is only 2.1 dB. Even if the matched line loss is 10 dB, having an SWR of 1.5 adds only 0.2 dB to the total loss. A 1.5 SWR is insignificant when considering line loss, especially at HF. The facts do not support the popular view that an SWR any higher than 1.0 is a bad thing. In most cases, a transmission line SWR of 2.0 or below will work fine. Now, there is another part to consider - the feedpoint impedance at the output of a transceiver may have to be transformed to something closer to 50 ohms for proper, full power operation of the PA - but that is the job of a tuner, it has nothing to do with feedline loss beyond the tuner. Unfortunately, these two parameters get mixed together and the result is 'numerical soup'. 73, Don W3FPR Samuel Strongin wrote: RG6 is 75 ohm cable. Why would you buy a great radio and worry about performance,then go use the wrong cable. You start out at a 1.5:1 swr. Idon't get it. kf4yox ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc
A couple of points: 1 -- While the feedline might have a 1.5:1 swr, a tuner at the rig can allow the rig to see it as 1.0:1. 2 -- If the feedpoint of the antenna has an impedance close to 75 ohms, RG-6 would be the _correct_ feedline to use. (Correct meaning best match to the antenna and lowest voltage peaks on the feedline while transmitting.) 3 -- Just because an Icom box does something does not make it right. 4 -- If you need a pi-network, BUILD ONE! There is nothing sacred about 50ohms. After all the impedance of free space is about 377ohms. 50ohms is just the impedance that the K3 wants to see at its feedpoint for best power transfer. Mark ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc
KR2Q penned: Top banders use RG6 all the time and run full bore (and then some) through it. At 1 Mhz, it is rated at 4kw. Doug, where did you find that spec? From what I know, most flavors of RG6 lack the voltage rating to instill confidence in putting a lot of power down the line. Yes, topbanders use tons of it, but as long inexpensive receive-only Beverage feedlines. 73, Barry N1EU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Winkeyer sounds soo different than K2
Hi, I miss the sound of my K2 built in keyer now after setting up winkeyer (as part of microKeyer II). I am sure others have played with the settings and come up with some adjustments to make it sound more original again. Anyone would like to share them? Thanks and 73, Andy, KU7T ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Co-ax for the K2
If you haveever tried to remove housepaint from a coax, black or whatever, you'll know that best way to match the coax to the house is to paint it with your color of choice. I have a 45 year old Moseley vertical ant that I paint with latex exterior paint and it lasts until you take it off. Pleases the neighbors too! Al WA6VNN ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc
At 10:16 AM 11/13/2007, Samuel Strongin wrote... just use the cheapest piece of junk and try to justify it. The fact of the matter 1.5 does matter.For example Icom radios fold back when seeing a swr of 1.5 to one. Remind me to never buy an Icom. Who would want a radio which can't be used with a simple dipole having a 72 ohm characteristic impedance? There's gotta be a huge market out there for a 1.5:1 balun, which no one is filling. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc
Actually, I've found Icoms to be much more tolerant of SWR issues then Yaesu. When you consider that most (90% or more?) recent rigs have built in antenna tuners that can match up to 150 ohms minimum, the idea of 72 VS: 52 seems trivially unimportant. Mike S wrote: At 10:16 AM 11/13/2007, Samuel Strongin wrote... just use the cheapest piece of junk and try to justify it. The fact of the matter 1.5 does matter.For example Icom radios fold back when seeing a swr of 1.5 to one. Remind me to never buy an Icom. Who would want a radio which can't be used with a simple dipole having a 72 ohm characteristic impedance? There's gotta be a huge market out there for a 1.5:1 balun, which no one is filling. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] CQ W3DX !
Great new review on eHam, please Rob - what is your serial number? ;-) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 Shipping options to UK
Dear patient Elecrafters I received the pre-shipment e-mail from Lisa this morning (order placed 30th April). I originally indicated the lower cost option of shipping via the US Postal Service Express Mail which is quoted at $103.00 (K3/100 modular kit, ATU, TCXO and one extra filter). Lisa pointed out the post office only allows a maximum of $650.00 for insurance for parcels sent to the UK. For full insurance they would need to ship via UPS. That cost is considerably more, but is fully insured and has tracking capability. The cost is $171.00. UPS would appear to be the only safe option and may be quicker. 73 Dave, G4AON ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Shipping options to UK
FWIW the K3 is packed very well, but given the difference I would suggest UPS. I actually used the US/ Swiss Post and it took seven days. I'll probably have my second K3 sent UPS as I'll probably be buying transverters as well. Simon Brown, HB9DRV - Original Message - From: Dave G4AON [EMAIL PROTECTED] UPS would appear to be the only safe option and may be quicker. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Shipping options to UK
On Nov 13, 2007 5:53 PM, Simon Brown (HB9DRV) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: FWIW the K3 is packed very well, but given the difference I would suggest UPS. I actually used the US/ Swiss Post and it took seven days. I'll probably have my second K3 sent UPS as I'll probably be buying transverters as well. The packing is one thing, but at this end using the cheaper option the package will be handled by an outfit named Parcel Force, more usually referred to as Parcel Farce for its laughable incompetence. I think the extra cost would be a wise investment. -- Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392 K3 s/n: ??? G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 Shipping options to UK
Dave, You should have suggested to Lisa that she use Global Express Guaranteed. Assuming the $103 quote represents a 20 pound (19 kg) package without the insurance, the same package would have been $155 with GXG. GXG permits insurance to $2499 for a maximum insurance fee of $18.00 When I last checked, GXG transport was handled by FedEx. I do not know if FedEx also does the clearance and final delivery or if the parcel is turned over to the national Postal Authority in the delivery country but the paperwork leads me to believe GXG is handled by FedEx from the Postal Routing Center in the US to its final destination. 73, ... Joe, W4TV -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave G4AON Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 12:37 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Shipping options to UK Dear patient Elecrafters I received the pre-shipment e-mail from Lisa this morning (order placed 30th April). I originally indicated the lower cost option of shipping via the US Postal Service Express Mail which is quoted at $103.00 (K3/100 modular kit, ATU, TCXO and one extra filter). Lisa pointed out the post office only allows a maximum of $650.00 for insurance for parcels sent to the UK. For full insurance they would need to ship via UPS. That cost is considerably more, but is fully insured and has tracking capability. The cost is $171.00. UPS would appear to be the only safe option and may be quicker. 73 Dave, G4AON ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] [K2] ATU
Hello group, I'm needing a tuner for use with my K2, and wanted to know the pros and cons of the KAT2 vs. the T1. Is the only difference that the T1 is stand-alone and the KAT2 is internal? Thanks in advance for your advice. 73, Kristina KE7LUC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: New Stealth Antenna
http://www.scientificblogging.com/news_account/stealth_antenna_made_of_gas_impervious_to_jamming -- David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 S/N 5982 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Motorola buys Yeasu. Wow!
W6FB added: Actually there were two separate companies created from what was Motorola Semiconductor Group. The first was On Semiconductor, which makes all sorts of transistors, logic and analog ICs. Th second was Freescale, consisting mostly of the microprocessors and microcontrollers, plus a few other things. On Nov 6, 2007, at 7:35 PM, VR2BrettGraham wrote: WA6VNN responded to K7SVV: Did any of you see the ARRL bulletin about Motorola buying Vertex? It has been a long time since I have seen a U.S. company buying a foreign company. Maybe now we'll be able to get the HF Power transistors that they quit supplying for the FT100s that have been failing The semiconductor business of Motorola was sold off a few years ago - it's now known as Freescale. 73, VR2BrettGraham. Odd, it was Freescale who could talk to me about an RF MOSFET Yaesu is rather fond of using but Motorola discontinued. On knows nothing of it. Doesn't matter, no part = no working radio. Rather doubt this will change as a result of the acquisition, though perhaps in future Yaesu will know not to use such EOL components to begin with. 73, VR2BrettGraham. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] ATU
Kristina, The KAT2 has a much greater tuning range, handles 2 antennas and remembers the last tuned settings for each band on both antennas. Communication between the K2 and KAT2 is automatic and quite painless. Of course, if you need a remote tuner (mounted at the antenna for example), the T1 is the better choice - the KAT2 must live at the location of the K2. 73, Don W3FPR Kristina Wright wrote: Hello group, I'm needing a tuner for use with my K2, and wanted to know the pros and cons of the KAT2 vs. the T1. Is the only difference that the T1 is stand-alone and the KAT2 is internal? Thanks in advance for your advice. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Tri-Band Dipole and KX1!
Hello all, I've been hiking with Guy, N7UN, and as some of you know he's a rocket on the trail. He usually brings along a tri-band diople to use on the trail. His dipole is a 40m dipole and he just connects less wire for 30m and 20m. I thought I'd build one and try it out. I started with a 20m diople and tuned it. The wire is # 24 gauge stranded whit with 19 strands. For the center I used a panel mount BNC connector. After tuning 20m, I tied a fishing swivel to the 20m end and also installed a female snap connector. I then did the same for the 30m connecting wire, but used a male snap connector on both wire ends. I then connected the wires and tuned 30m. Next I did the same for 40m. I now have a dipole that works great with my KX1 on 20m, 30m and 40m. If I want to work 20m only, I just put up the basic diople. If I want 20m 30m, I add a short piece to both ends. If I want 20m, 30m and 40m, I then add the last wire piece on both ends. Or, I can put the dipole up as a 40m antenna and just disconnect the jumpers to change bands. In fact I just worked VE2PID on 40m. The whole antenna without coax weighs-in at around 3 oz or less. Thanks for the idea Guy, N7UN! 72, Roo Bear Ed, WA3WSJ PB # 2 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Shipping options to UK
Thanks for the information Dave. Any idea how much quicker UPS might be? (Based on the latest update I am hoping for Lisa's email in 2-3 weeks time.) 73 to all Geoff G3UCK - Original Message - From: Dave G4AON [EMAIL PROTECTED] . UPS would appear to be the only safe option and may be quicker. 73 Dave, G4AON ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 wish list
As a newcomer to major Elecraft items I hope it is not presumptuous of me to add to the wish list. My small station layout means that a remote ATU is much more effective than an inboard one. Therefor the tuning part of the KAT3 as an external unit (with say a 25 to 35 ft power and control cable) AND the antenna switching functions transferred to the KANT3 in the main rig would be very attractive, especially to accommodate a beam for 6m. When I get my K3 I will be stuck with a third party auto ATU and manual switching for 6M. I didn't order till batch three in mid July, so lets hope the $ stays at 2+ per £ until the New Year. I have been amazed at the close contact available via this reflector. Keep up the good work Eric. Alan G8FMH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Winkeyer sounds soo different than K2
This is an easy fix. Turn off the Winkeyer sidetone and turn on the K2 sidetone. You still have to feed the Winkeyer into the K2's key jack, and you are still using the K2's keyer, although only in handkey mode. The K2 sidetone still works, so just use it. On Nov 13, 2007, at 8:35 AM, Andreas Hofmann wrote: Hi, I miss the sound of my K2 built in keyer now after setting up winkeyer (as part of microKeyer II). I am sure others have played with the settings and come up with some adjustments to make it sound more original again. Anyone would like to share them? Thanks and 73, Andy, KU7T ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -Jack Brindle, W6FB === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Shipping options to UK
Dave and Joe, A few months ago I purchased an item from a company in the State of Washington which was handled by FedEx to London Heathrow. Parcel Force then handled the package from London to here in Scotland, and I recall having to pay Parcel Force an amount. Dave, if you would like more specific information about this please contact me off list. The tracking number supplied by Fedex was also used by Parcel Force. 73, Geoff GM4ESD - Original Message - From: Joe Subich, W4TV [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Dave G4AON' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 6:39 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Shipping options to UK Dave, You should have suggested to Lisa that she use Global Express Guaranteed. Assuming the $103 quote represents a 20 pound (19 kg) package without the insurance, the same package would have been $155 with GXG. GXG permits insurance to $2499 for a maximum insurance fee of $18.00 When I last checked, GXG transport was handled by FedEx. I do not know if FedEx also does the clearance and final delivery or if the parcel is turned over to the national Postal Authority in the delivery country but the paperwork leads me to believe GXG is handled by FedEx from the Postal Routing Center in the US to its final destination. 73, ... Joe, W4TV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Small power supply for a K1
Steve, about Gamma HPS-1 What kind of experience and how long you have used it. You told it is NOISY. Did you ground your equipments properly? The many evaluations of the supply seem to be strictly positive (5/5). Of course they have bought it and want to say they make wisew decisions. I have not found this noisy. Quality varies ??? I made the modification 2k to 2k7 resistor change, and aural noise will be blocked. Fan is silent (still). Benny OH9NB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 Shipping options to UK
Geoff You asked about comparing USPS Express Mail International with UPS. My last parcel (for a non Elecraft item back in October), sent via the USPS was listed on the USPS web site as taking 3 - 5 days, but took 3 weeks... 2 days collection to leaving Chicago - the rest spent sitting in UK customs, then a delay of 4 days for an invoice to arrive by first class letter post which needed paying before Parcel Force would deliver, as I wanted them to leave the parcel at the local post office that added another 2 days to travel the last 30 miles. I've had air mail parcels arrive much quicker than that, but once mail arrives in the UK it's not exactly express. Maybe things are quicker now, but the lack of proper insurance means a K3 delivery is risky via the air mail route. 73 Dave, G4AON ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Co-ax for the K2
This whole discussion amazes me. Almost universally, there seems to be no recognition that even though the feedline is matched at the radio, it is indeed NOT matched beyond the tuner. The feedline can see humongous mismatch (high SWR) and the operator doesn't know because the tuner hides it. In these cases, the feedline will see high voltages (perhaps very high), which causes heating in the dielectric and will eventually destroy the coax. It doesn't matter if it is 75 ohm or 50 ohm coax, it will happen. What kind of voltages could we see? Depending on the mismatch, potentially into the thousands with a 100 watt transmitter. That does real damage in low-cost coax no matter how much braid coverage. So why is hardline so much preferred? It has next to no non-air dielectric to be heated/destroyed. And next, why is open-wire even better? It has even less non-air dielectric than hardline. Like hardline, its loss is so low that you can run long lengths with very little loss. And last, what is the best solution? Most likely to remote the antenna tuner so that it always provides a good match on the local feedline for the transmitter to see. The ultimate, of course, is to place the tuner at the antenna. Why doesn't everybody do this? Because it is rather difficult to do. Ham radio, along with the rest of engineering, is all about finding the best compromise that provides the best results. So, if you can assure a good match between the antenna and the coax, or perhaps even one that transforms the antenna feed impedance to the transmitter's at all operating frequencies, then you have found the right solution for you and should go forward with whatever coax fits that solution... On Nov 12, 2007, at 8:33 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Doug, I beg to differ. There are physical properties that give rise to the characteristic impedance which are related to the dielectric properties and the relative conductor diameters for the center conductor and the braid. These same properties will create a particular RF voltage handling characteristic for the coax in question (or any coax for that matter). The real difference in coax quality is the shielding percentage of the outer braid. That has nothing to do with the RF voltage handling, but it certainly has a lot to do with the leakage from the coax. In the extreme, a coaxial cable could have similar leakage characteristics as open wire line, but again that is not related to the RF voltage handling characteristics. So look for a coax that has 90% or greater braid coverage. There is the 'quad shield' RG6 that is quite good in shielding characteristics, but I do not know if it is available in white jacket material. As it has been mentioned, the white jacket is not as UV protective as the black, so for use indoors, it really does not matter, but outside, use the cable jacket that is rated for UV protection. 73, Don W3FPR Doug Person wrote: There are many types of cable designated RG-6 and RG-59. Many are not designed to handle rf voltages typical of ham transmissions. My suggestion is to be *careful* what you select. Good quality RG-59, the type broadly used by hams many years ago, is hard to find right now. We're not talking about what the cable companies are using - we're talking about what you can buy at Wal-Mart or Home Depot. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -Jack Brindle, W6FB === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 wish list
I (and others) have been hoping for something like this since the K2 came out. Elecraft introduced the T1, which is fine for QRP use, but sometimes you've gotta crank the power up a bit. If Elecraft would introduce a remote tuner based on the KAT100 or the KAT3 priced competitively, I think it would sell well. 73, Mike KW1ND [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: As a newcomer to major Elecraft items I hope it is not presumptuous of me to add to the wish list. My small station layout means that a remote ATU is much more effective than an inboard one. Therefor the tuning part of the KAT3 as an external unit (with say a 25 to 35 ft power and control cable) AND the antenna switching functions transferred to the KANT3 in the main rig would be very attractive, especially to accommodate a beam for 6m. When I get my K3 I will be stuck with a third party auto ATU and manual switching for 6M. I didn't order till batch three in mid July, so lets hope the $ stays at 2+ per £ until the New Year. I have been amazed at the close contact available via this reflector. Keep up the good work Eric. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Winkeyer sounds soo different than K2
Let me clarify. The CW I am complaining is the K2 sidetone. The Winkeyer(microKeyerII) does not have a sidetone; it is fed to the K2 key jack and the K2 is configured to Hand. The timing is just way off. The dits are really short, but playing with the parameters has not changed much. Just wondering if others use it this way and what parameters they are using... Andreas -Original Message- From: Jack Brindle [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 12:05 PM To: Andreas Hofmann Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Winkeyer sounds soo different than K2 This is an easy fix. Turn off the Winkeyer sidetone and turn on the K2 sidetone. You still have to feed the Winkeyer into the K2's key jack, and you are still using the K2's keyer, although only in handkey mode. The K2 sidetone still works, so just use it. On Nov 13, 2007, at 8:35 AM, Andreas Hofmann wrote: Hi, I miss the sound of my K2 built in keyer now after setting up winkeyer (as part of microKeyer II). I am sure others have played with the settings and come up with some adjustments to make it sound more original again. Anyone would like to share them? Thanks and 73, Andy, KU7T ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -Jack Brindle, W6FB === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Winkeyer sounds soo different than K2
Have you experimented with the settings on the Winkey tab in Router? I'll send you some screen shots of how I am set up with the MK2R+. The MKII Winkey should be the same, or close to it. I'll send them this evening. - 73, Greg - AB7R Whidbey Island WA NA-065 K3#0009 On Tue Nov 13 15:33 , Andreas Hofmann sent: Let me clarify. The CW I am complaining is the K2 sidetone. The Winkeyer(microKeyerII) does not have a sidetone; it is fed to the K2 key jack and the K2 is configured to Hand. The timing is just way off. The dits are really short, but playing with the parameters has not changed much. Just wondering if others use it this way and what parameters they are using... Andreas -Original Message- From: Jack Brindle [EMAIL PROTECTED]','','','')[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 12:05 PM To: Andreas Hofmann Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Winkeyer sounds soo different than K2 This is an easy fix. Turn off the Winkeyer sidetone and turn on the K2 sidetone. You still have to feed the Winkeyer into the K2's key jack, and you are still using the K2's keyer, although only in handkey mode. The K2 sidetone still works, so just use it. On Nov 13, 2007, at 8:35 AM, Andreas Hofmann wrote: Hi, I miss the sound of my K2 built in keyer now after setting up winkeyer (as part of microKeyer II). I am sure others have played with the settings and come up with some adjustments to make it sound more original again. Anyone would like to share them? Thanks and 73, Andy, KU7T ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -Jack Brindle, W6FB === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Winkeyer sounds soo different than K2
Let me clarify. The CW I am complaining is the K2 sidetone. The Winkeyer(microKeyerII) does not have a sidetone; it is fed to the K2 key jack and the K2 is configured to Hand. The timing is just way off. The dits are really short, but playing with the parameters has not changed much. I have the microHam microKeyer and haven't changed any parameters and it's all but indistinguishable from the K2. The elements of the characters might be a little shorter or the timing may be slightly different but I just don't notice it at all. I have my logging program (WriteLog) talk to the microKeyer as a WinKey device. I think WriteLog sends ASCII to the microKeyer, so I don't think there's any timing issues caused by WriteLog. I also have a PS/2 keyboard plugged into the microKeyer and it sounds the same as sending from WriteLog. Are you using a paddle or driving it from software? If the latter, make sure the software isn't generating its own key presses but instead is configured to use WinKey. Craig NZ0R ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 wish list
My small station layout means that a remote ATU is much more effective than an inboard one. Therefor the tuning part of the KAT3 as an external unit (with say a 25 to 35 ft power and control cable) AND the antenna switching functions transferred to the KANT3 in the main rig would be very attractive, especially to accommodate a beam for 6m. Pardon my ignorance but I don't understand how your station layout would be improved with an external ATU. The KAT3 occupies the same space inside the K3 as the KANT3. An external tuner would result in more, not less, space being taken outside the radio (albeit remotely mounted), plus you'd have another cable to route. There may be something about having a 6m beam that works better with a remote ATU and that's fine -- I just don't understand how this is all driven by limited desk space. The same amount of desk space is taken up with the ATU inside the K3 as outside. Craig NZ0R K3/100 #25 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Shipping options to UK
Any idea how much quicker UPS might be? My K3 should be landing in Cologne, Germany right about now - now is 20:52 UTC on Tuesday. It left Aptos Yesterday at about 00:09 UTC (Tuesday), i.e. 16:09 PST in Aptos (Monday). So it got across the Atlantic fast enough - less than 24 hours. Next customs and and getting the package to Bavaria. vy 73 de toby -- DD5FZ (ex 4n6fz, dj7mgq, dg5mgq, dd5fz) K2/10 #885 K2/100 #3248 K3/100 #??? (like really soon now) DOK C12, BCC, DL-QRP-AG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Winkeyer sounds soo different than K2
Andreas, Take a look at this WinKey document. It may help. In the meantime, experiment in small steps with the keying compensation and weighting. If running QSK, you can also try the 1st element extension. If you're running a logging program like WriteLog or N1MM, they have their own WinKey setup screens that take over for the settings in Router. To see this, open the program and make sure CW keying is selected for WinKey. Then open Router, you will see all the settings are grayed out. That's because Winkey is now being controlled by the logging program. - 73, Greg - AB7R Whidbey Island WA NA-065 K3#0009 On Tue Nov 13 15:33 , Andreas Hofmann sent: Let me clarify. The CW I am complaining is the K2 sidetone. The Winkeyer(microKeyerII) does not have a sidetone; it is fed to the K2 key jack and the K2 is configured to Hand. The timing is just way off. The dits are really short, but playing with the parameters has not changed much. Just wondering if others use it this way and what parameters they are using... Andreas -Original Message- From: Jack Brindle [EMAIL PROTECTED]','','','')[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 12:05 PM To: Andreas Hofmann Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Winkeyer sounds soo different than K2 This is an easy fix. Turn off the Winkeyer sidetone and turn on the K2 sidetone. You still have to feed the Winkeyer into the K2's key jack, and you are still using the K2's keyer, although only in handkey mode. The K2 sidetone still works, so just use it. On Nov 13, 2007, at 8:35 AM, Andreas Hofmann wrote: Hi, I miss the sound of my K2 built in keyer now after setting up winkeyer (as part of microKeyer II). I am sure others have played with the settings and come up with some adjustments to make it sound more original again. Anyone would like to share them? Thanks and 73, Andy, KU7T ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -Jack Brindle, W6FB === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Winkeyer sounds soo different than K2
Sorry, forgot the link to the document. :) http://k1el.tripod.com/WinkeyUSBman.pdf - 73, Greg - AB7R Whidbey Island WA NA-065 K3#0009 On Tue Nov 13 15:33 , Andreas Hofmann sent: Let me clarify. The CW I am complaining is the K2 sidetone. The Winkeyer(microKeyerII) does not have a sidetone; it is fed to the K2 key jack and the K2 is configured to Hand. The timing is just way off. The dits are really short, but playing with the parameters has not changed much. Just wondering if others use it this way and what parameters they are using... Andreas -Original Message- From: Jack Brindle [EMAIL PROTECTED]','','','')[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 12:05 PM To: Andreas Hofmann Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Winkeyer sounds soo different than K2 This is an easy fix. Turn off the Winkeyer sidetone and turn on the K2 sidetone. You still have to feed the Winkeyer into the K2's key jack, and you are still using the K2's keyer, although only in handkey mode. The K2 sidetone still works, so just use it. On Nov 13, 2007, at 8:35 AM, Andreas Hofmann wrote: Hi, I miss the sound of my K2 built in keyer now after setting up winkeyer (as part of microKeyer II). I am sure others have played with the settings and come up with some adjustments to make it sound more original again. Anyone would like to share them? Thanks and 73, Andy, KU7T ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -Jack Brindle, W6FB === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] ATU
Hello Kristina The KAT2 has one big advantage over the T1. (I have both of them). With the T1, you are looking at just one antenna. With the KAT2, you have two separate ANT ports, and can switch between them with a button press. On a band-by-band basis, the KAT2 remembers its setting for whatever antenna is connected to either port, so you don't have to retune when switching bands or antennas. Also, ;using a barefoot K2, you have a POWER measuring circuit that is just an rf voltmeter across the 50 ohm output, and it is only accurate when the load is a true 50 ohms, such as with a good dummy load. The KAT2 has a true wattmeter circuit, and measures the power, whether you have a tight match or not. Another advantage of the KAT2 is that it is internal, so when you go to the field, like for FD, that is one less piece of gear to drag along. Personally, I thought the KAT2 was the slickest piece of engineering in the whole K2 options line. Good luck and 73 Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: Kristina Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 11:06 AM Subject: [Elecraft] [K2] ATU Hello group, I'm needing a tuner for use with my K2, and wanted to know the pros and cons of the KAT2 vs. the T1. Is the only difference that the T1 is stand-alone and the KAT2 is internal? Thanks in advance for your advice. 73, Kristina KE7LUC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 wish list
The ability to control an external ATU is very important for those of use who will also be using a high power auto-tuner after an amplifier. Eric/Wayne have said that this is on the list for a future release. What would make sense (to me) would be: 1) External auto-tuner sends keying signal to K3 when high SWR or manual start-tuning button is pushed. 2) K3 reverts to a low power (10 watt) CW signal for tuning, and DOES NOT key the amplifier as long as the external tuner keying signal is applied. 3) Once tuner finishes tuning, external keying signal goes away, K3 reverts to normal power/mode, and K3 will again be able to key external amplifier. Just my humble opinion. Phil - AD5X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] S/N 000037
She's been up and running for about a day now, and I must honestly say that for the first time in 25 years I am enjoying listening to CW, my previous CW radio was a TR-7 with Sherwood filters. In fact it's so good I'm thinking of another CW filter, I have the 250Hz and am tempted to get a 1kHz. Hats off to Eric, Wayne and their team - this really is Amateur Radio. Simon Brown, HB9DRV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 wish list
Another for sure sale here!!! ... Craig AC0DS If Elecraft would introduce a remote tuner based on the KAT100 or the KAT3 priced competitively, I think it would sell well. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft K3 at the Fort Wayne swap
If all goes well there will be an Elecraft K3 on display at the Fort Wayne, Indiana Swap. K8AJ and myself (K8TB) will be there Sat and Sun, and Mike, N8XPQ should join us on Sunday. Look for the Elecraft banner and someone with a big smile on his face! 73 de Tom K8TB (p.s., the radio is better than the hype!) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3 at the Fort Wayne swap
Bueno, Tom. Hope you can do it. I'm planning to make the trip down there from Goshen and will be looking for your banner. That'll be the only K3 I see for a while yet since I'm in the third production run. Dave W5DHM On Nov 13, 2007 4:48 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If all goes well there will be an Elecraft K3 on display at the Fort Wayne, Indiana Swap. K8AJ and myself (K8TB) will be there Sat and Sun, and Mike, N8XPQ should join us on Sunday. Look for the Elecraft banner and someone with a big smile on his face! 73 de Tom K8TB (p.s., the radio is better than the hype!) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc
I have been following this thread and find it very interesting, particularly as a Mechanical Engineer I have to read it slowly but may I comment -- 1, I don't know the details of Icom's protection system, but the ones I have seen sense reflected power, well actually it will be the voltage detected at the sensor against an assumed impedance of 50 ohms (50+j0). The actual SWR at which the protection will come into play will be a function of feedline impedance (which will, in practice, have a reactive element), feedline losses, antenna impedance and efficiency. -- If it's a problem - just add a few feet of coax!! 2, It shows an underlying belief in SWR as the be all and end all of antenna systems. 3, Many years ago now I had the opportunity to visit the main Naval transmitting station in the UK. Utilising frequencies from VLF to VHF their antenna systems were out of this world. But the majority were fed with 600 ohm open line across many kilometres of open ground. I recall one of our guys asking about SWR. The station chief just shrugged. One of the main HF transmitters was opened for maintenance and contained a large number of 4CX250 valves connected in parallel - not the easiest valve to run. So what should we be doing; as an instructor I see and hear a hell of a lot of myths about SWR and do try to correct them within my own understanding of the subject. But I do have to hand it to those who fully understand the subject and who take the time to explain it at the level of our examination system, which cannot be easy. Perhaps we should send this to the mythbusters and see if thay can blow it away!! Anyway, I am now going to browse my RadCom back numbers for a revision session. 73 Peter GM8GAX K2 #04027 P.S. My Mechanical Engineering comment was to give you Electronic and Radio Engineers a little laugh. I can read as fast as you, any slowing down now is due to age, eye sight etc. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Ode To My Phantom K3
I'm awfully wound up and in deepest distress When I last talked to Lisa she said in a week, perhaps less You'll be hearing from me, you are getting so close But two weeks have now passed with no word from Aptos. The wait is so painful, my gut's in a knot I so wish I could see that new rig that I bought. Be patient they say, so I'm biting my lips I may need a transfusion before my K3 ships. And all of you others who share my despair Know only too well why I have no more hair. I'll continue my vigil, what else can I do I'm a mess you can tell, it's like getting the flu. Oh! if some of you folks should be passing my way Check on me please if your blood type is A Positive, that is! Dave W7AQK P.S. Can you tell I'm bored? D. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Ode To My Phantom K3
Yeah, Dave, you have too much time on your hands. de Joe, aa4nn - Original Message - From: David Yarnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 5:58 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Ode To My Phantom K3 I'm awfully wound up and in deepest distress When I last talked to Lisa she said in a week, perhaps less You'll be hearing from me, you are getting so close But two weeks have now passed with no word from Aptos. The wait is so painful, my gut's in a knot I so wish I could see that new rig that I bought. Be patient they say, so I'm biting my lips I may need a transfusion before my K3 ships. And all of you others who share my despair Know only too well why I have no more hair. I'll continue my vigil, what else can I do I'm a mess you can tell, it's like getting the flu. Oh! if some of you folks should be passing my way Check on me please if your blood type is A Positive, that is! Dave W7AQK P.S. Can you tell I'm bored? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Ode To My Phantom K3
At 06:06 PM 11/13/2007, Joe-aa4nn wrote: Yeah, Dave, you have too much time on your hands. Na...I think he's found a creative outlet for the frustration that many people feel with the delivery cycle and lack of information. 73, Thom - k3hrn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 STATUS -- a note from the lab
Hi all, I have a different scenario. I like the concept of locating the tuner close to the antenna and controlling it remotely (the only control I need is Tune!). So what I need at the transceiver is the ability to start a carrier at reduced power (10W regardless of power and mode setting) and provide a tune command to the tuner (just a pulse on a logic output will do). Will the K3 support this? For the record I am doing this today with my IC-718's Tuner button with a bit of external hardware hooked up to the tuner port of the transceiver. The remote tuner is a MFJ-929 modded to externally control the Tune button. Believe me, MFJ makes really good auto tuners. 73 AB2TC - Knut The ability to control an external ATU is very important for those of use who will also be using a high power auto-tuner after an amplifier. Eric/Wayne have said that this is on the list for a future release. What would make sense (to me) would be: 1) External auto-tuner sends keying signal to K3 when high SWR or manual start-tuning button is pushed. 2) K3 reverts to a low power (10 watt) CW signal for tuning, and DOES NOT key the amplifier as long as the external tuner keying signal is applied. 3) Once tuner finishes tuning, external keying signal goes away, K3 reverts to normal power/mode, and K3 will again be able to key external amplifier. Just my humble opinion. Phil - AD5X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Revised Ode To My Phantom K3
I'm still bored! Here's my final version! I'm awfully wound up and in deepest distress When I last talked to Lisa she said in a week, perhaps less You'll be hearing from me, you are getting so close But two weeks have now passed with no word from Aptos. The wait is so painful, my gut's in a knot I so wish I could see that new rig that I bought. Be patient they say, so I'm biting my lips I may need a transfusion before my K3 ships. And all of you others who share my despair Know only too well why I have no more hair. The nails on my fingers are bloody and short I've gnawed them all off I am sad to report. I toss in my sleep, and I mumble strange phrases And my wife is concerned by my long empty gazes. My dog now avoids me, he knows something's amiss He just can't understand something painful like this. I must stop all this moaning, buck up, and be strong After six long, dry months, can the wait still be long? I'll continue my vigil, Heck! what else can I do (I'm a mess you can tell, it's like getting the flu.) Stop this nonsense you fool! Get hold of yourself! After all, as the Brits say, it's only more pelf. Kiss the wife, pet the dog, make the most of your time Don't encourage frustration with dumb lines of rhyme. But I do have one favor I think I should ask If I turn out to be less than up to the task If any of you happen to be passing my way Check on me please if your blood type is A Positive, that is! O.K. I'll quit now Dave W7AQK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Good morse key?
Hello! I've been off this list for a good long while...quick question. Any picks for a good starting morse key? I've played around with the paddles and maybe want to start with a straight key... (update: back from my adventure, finished my Elecraft 'cept for DSP and battery bits, no license yet, gonna get that back home when I move there shortly) Anyway, I was also wondering if anyone has any master schemes for connecting a key to a computer for practice, and maybe some software that works in conjunction with a key... RANDOM POSTS ARE NEAT! Anyways, thanks in advance for any suggestions! -- Justin C++12 Croonenberghs Arrrgh! Too many pizzas! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Ode To My Phantom K3
Dave, Buy a ticket to Switzerland and go play with Simon's. John [K7SVV] P.S. It was nice seeing you at the office last night. P.P.S. The KX1 arrived today. - Original Message - From: David Yarnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 3:58 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Ode To My Phantom K3 I'm awfully wound up and in deepest distress When I last talked to Lisa she said in a week, perhaps less You'll be hearing from me, you are getting so close But two weeks have now passed with no word from Aptos. The wait is so painful, my gut's in a knot I so wish I could see that new rig that I bought. Be patient they say, so I'm biting my lips I may need a transfusion before my K3 ships. And all of you others who share my despair Know only too well why I have no more hair. I'll continue my vigil, what else can I do I'm a mess you can tell, it's like getting the flu. Oh! if some of you folks should be passing my way Check on me please if your blood type is A Positive, that is! Dave W7AQK P.S. Can you tell I'm bored? D. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.31/1128 - Release Date: 11/13/2007 11:09 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Tri-Band Dipole and KX1!
Would you mind a simple diagram so I can get a better idea as to how the swivel/snap connectors work? I have a KX1 and 2 K-s which I would love to experiment with. Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- Hello all, I started with a 20m diople and tuned it. The wire is # 24 gauge stranded whit with 19 strands. For the center I used a panel mount BNC connector. After tuning 20m, I tied a fishing swivel to the 20m end and also installed a female snap connector. I then did the same for the 30m connecting wire, but used a male snap connector on both wire ends. I then connected the wires and tuned 30m. Next I did the same for 40m. I now have a dipole that works great with my KX1 on 20m, 30m and 40m. If I want to work 20m only, I just put up the basic diople. If I want 20m 30m, I add a short piece to both ends. If I want 20m, 30m and 40m, I then add the last wire piece on both ends. Or, I can put the dipole up as a 40m antenna and just disconnect the jumpers to change bands. In fact I just worked VE2PID on 40m. The whole antenna without coax weighs-in at around 3 oz or less. 72, Roo Bear Ed, WA3WSJ PB # 2 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Ode To My Phantom K3
David Yarnes wrote: I'm awfully wound up and in deepest distress When I last talked to Lisa she said in a week, perhaps less You'll be hearing from me, you are getting so close But two weeks have now passed with no word from Aptos. The wait is so painful, my gut's in a knot I so wish I could see that new rig that I bought. . . . I believe the ability to write poetry is a talent, and the ability to write good, meaningful poetry is a mega-talent, much like art or music, that can lead to international awards and much acclaim ... although don't hold your breath for a lot of money ... acclaim will likely have to suffice. Your poem is both good and meaningful to me. Therefore I would grant you Mega Poet status. Keep in mind however that I have no color vision so art isn't one of my talents. I always stood next to John in the conference room when we were singing Happy Birthday to some colleague ... John by happenstance, used the same note to sing with as I did, thus music is sort of out of the scheme of things too. My college roommate and I used to write the we want to change our order notes to the guy who delivered milk to us in poetry. He finally asked us to just tell him. Apparently, I have no talents. Hmmm ... the guy who delivered milk to us ... giving away my age, no? Fred K6DGW K2 KX1 Other Aptos stuff K3 on order and I'll wait patiently and in silence ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Phantom K3 ????
why look out side .it's a bird it's a plane NO it's MR. UPS. AND HE HAS THE WHITE BOX, the early bird GOT the BIG WHITE BOX TODAY,, SN TO FOLLOW bill ny9h ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: proof that RG6 is used for xmtg on 160m
I would normally reply directly, but I thought that there might be wider interest. Someone wanted to know how do you know that RG6 is used on top band for TRANSMITTING. Just go the top band reflector and do an archive search. Here is one from one of the 'most famous' top banders around. Yes, it really does work and yes, famous people really do this. de Doug KR2Q http://lists.contesting.com/archives//html/Topband/2006-09/msg00058.html ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: pwr rating of RG6, etc
Peter (and interested others), You might want to peruse the article Antennas, Transmission Lines, and Tuners at my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com. The article tries to flatten several myths in terms that should be understood by most hams - no math, but I believe a good explanation of principles. 73, Don W3FPR Peter Howson wrote: I have been following this thread and find it very interesting, particularly as a Mechanical Engineer I have to read it slowly but may I comment -- 1, I don't know the details of Icom's protection system, but the ones I have seen sense reflected power, well actually it will be the voltage detected at the sensor against an assumed impedance of 50 ohms (50+j0). The actual SWR at which the protection will come into play will be a function of feedline impedance (which will, in practice, have a reactive element), feedline losses, antenna impedance and efficiency. -- If it's a problem - just add a few feet of coax!! 2, It shows an underlying belief in SWR as the be all and end all of antenna systems. 3, Many years ago now I had the opportunity to visit the main Naval transmitting station in the UK. Utilising frequencies from VLF to VHF their antenna systems were out of this world. But the majority were fed with 600 ohm open line across many kilometres of open ground. I recall one of our guys asking about SWR. The station chief just shrugged. One of the main HF transmitters was opened for maintenance and contained a large number of 4CX250 valves connected in parallel - not the easiest valve to run. So what should we be doing; as an instructor I see and hear a hell of a lot of myths about SWR and do try to correct them within my own understanding of the subject. But I do have to hand it to those who fully understand the subject and who take the time to explain it at the level of our examination system, which cannot be easy. Perhaps we should send this to the mythbusters and see if thay can blow it away!! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] XV transverters and the K-3
Hi Waiting on my K-3 and thought I'd make a cable for my XV-144 XV-432 to connect to my K-3. The info is very sparse. Nothing in the K-3 Owners Manual except a pin out chart and nothing in the XV manuals refering to the K-3. I have the 15 and 9 pin plugs. Need info on wiring the 15 pin end. I'm in the second bunch to ship, so I guess there is no hurry. If anyone knows where this wiring charts are listed, can you point me in the right direction. Phil K8MBY Note: This e-mail message passed through the Wadsnet outbound Mail Vault anti-virus/anti-SPAM scanners. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Another early bird gets his ...
Mine came today, too! Invoice #47389, entered on 4/29 via FAX 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] More youtube K3 videos needed
OK you lucky people who now have a K3. How about making a short video for the rest of us to see and hear your rigs? It's very easy :O) Robert VE3RPF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 - KDSP2 Circuit Diagrams
I am trying to find a fault in my KDSP2. Do circuit diagrams of the two boards exist with higher resolution of the logic signals? Many of the signals in the diagrams in the manual seem to be done with a low resolution dot matrix printer and they are awfully hard to read. The LED lights up and does not go out. In menu, RTC can be turned off or on, but when on, no DSP menu can be accessed. Repeated holding AFIL cycles through the filters. SSB signals are heard in the speaker but sound as if they come through a narrow filter, or are distorted. I am trying to trace the lines from the on board connector pins to their connections on the board. So far, I have only found a missing link from pin 20 of J2 to U7 which I have repaired. I have tried a new microcontroller U1, but no go. Maybe the simplest way out of this is to buy a new KDSP2. 73 Kevin VK3DAP / ZL2DAP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Co-ax for the K2
There's another issue that leads to greater feed line efficiency in addition to the points Jack made: keeping the SWR relatively low. That is, less than, say, 15:1 or less. All feed lines become lossy at high SWRs. One reason, as Jack mentioned, is the likelihood of dielectric breakdown. That's usually a catastrophic failure. The line is no good after that happens, especially if it's common coaxial line. The other reason for loss at high SWRs is ohmic loss due to the extremely high currents at the current loops (points of maximum current). At even moderate power levels very large currents will occur there just as very high voltages appear at the voltage loops 1/4 wavelength away. RF flows only in the very surface of a conductor so the RF resistance of a conductor is much, much higher than its d-c resistance (unless the conductor is a very, very thin tube - probably too thin to handle). Heating at these current loops converts RF into wasted thermal energy. Holding the SWR down greatly reduces these losses, and open wire line does that even when there's no attempt to match the feeder to the antenna. Here's how that works. Consider a center fed wire. At the frequency where the wire is at 1/2 wavelength long the impedance at the center is usually about 50 ohms (in free space it would be 75 ohms, but as one moves close to the earth, the impedance drops). At the frequency where the wire is 1 wavelength long, the impedance at the center feed point will be in the range of 3500 to 4000 ohms, depending again on the height. As it becomes longer in wavelengths, those impedance extremes decrease, so the maximum range of impedance values are from about 50 to 4000 ohms. The SWR on a 50-ohm coaxial feed line, when the wire is 1/2 wavelength long, will be about 1:1. When the wire is 1 wavelength long, the SWR will soar to 80:1 (4000/50). The SWR on a typical open wire line of, say, 400 ohms, will be 8:1 when the wire is 1/2 wave long (400/50) and about 10:1 when the wire is 1 wavelength long (4000/400). So, not only is open wire line intrinsically better able to handle high voltages (and, by using large conductors) high currents more easily than coax, it has intrinsically much, much lower SWRs when used with typical multiband Ham antennas! The result is a much, much more efficient feed line. Traps and other devices are employed on many Ham antennas to provide a more consistent impedance somewhere near 50 ohms to permit the use of coax by keeping the SWR down, but at the cost of some loss in the traps and greater overall complexity of the antenna system. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Installation of a KXB30 in KX-1
I have a question about installing a KXB30 into my KX-1, but first...a little story about how much I like this radio. Compared to most of you I am a rookie at the building and operating in CWbut I do enjoy it. I have had the base 20/40 meter KX1 built for a while. Most of my contacts have been up and down the East Coast here and into Canada. I have made some nice contacts out west as a part of the 40M QRP Foxhunts. I am surprised how well the low power works. This Saturday I just managed to launch a wire up over a tree in the front near the house and then up to the peak of the roof. It looks sort of like an invereted L. I pulled the wires into the house and settled in. Decided to respond to a contest call on Saturday night in the OK/OM contest. I did not figure I had much of a chance in reaching the op in the Czech Republic..but it only took a few calls. My first DX with a KX-1. I plan to look for more. I finally decided to operate on the KX-1 tonight and install the KXB30. I have the board pretty well installed. It was an interesting job to line up all those leads in the right place...but I believe I got it. I am ready to put it back together and do the tests. The only issue is that the little rubber bumpers that are to be installed on the KXB30 to keep it from touching the case have very little stickiness to them. I don't want to be shorting things out. The bumpers just come off. They don't have a good surface to stick to since they have to cover some of the solder joints and stick to that and the board. Is it OK to just use a little super glue or another expoxy to get them to stay in place? Would I damage the PCB? Any and all advice appreciated. I cannot wait to get this radio on 30M. 73 de Keith KB3ILS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - KDSP2 Circuit Diagrams
Was the board installed and in service, and functional, or is this DSP newly built, and you are troubleshooting it? - David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 S/N 5982 On Wed, 2007-11-14 at 13:53 +1100, KBG Luxford wrote: I am trying to find a fault in my KDSP2. Do circuit diagrams of the two boards exist with higher resolution of the logic signals? Many of the signals in the diagrams in the manual seem to be done with a low resolution dot matrix printer and they are awfully hard to read. The LED lights up and does not go out. In menu, RTC can be turned off or on, but when on, no DSP menu can be accessed. Repeated holding AFIL cycles through the filters. SSB signals are heard in the speaker but sound as if they come through a narrow filter, or are distorted. I am trying to trace the lines from the on board connector pins to their connections on the board. So far, I have only found a missing link from pin 20 of J2 to U7 which I have repaired. I have tried a new microcontroller U1, but no go. Maybe the simplest way out of this is to buy a new KDSP2. 73 Kevin VK3DAP / ZL2DAP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Co-ax for the K2
In a message dated 11/13/07 3:19:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Almost universally, there seems to be no recognition that even though the feedline is matched at the radio, it is indeed NOT matched beyond the tuner. The feedline can see humongous mismatch (high SWR) and the operator doesn't know because the tuner hides it. That's only true if the load impedance is far from 50-75 ohms, or is highly reactive. In these cases, the feedline will see high voltages (perhaps very high), which causes heating in the dielectric and will eventually destroy the coax. *If* the mismatch is considerable and the power is high enough. But at the hundred-watt level and SWRs under about 4 to 1, that's not going to be an issue with most coax. So why is hardline so much preferred? It has next to no non-air dielectric to be heated/destroyed. The reason hardline is preferred is that its loss is less. All the TV hardline I've seen has foam dielectric, btw. And last, what is the best solution? Most likely to remote the antenna tuner so that it always provides a good match on the local feedline for the transmitter to see. The ultimate, of course, is to place the tuner at the antenna. Why doesn't everybody do this? Because it is rather difficult to do. Ham radio, along with the rest of engineering, is all about finding the best compromise that provides the best results. And knowing what is really going on in the system. An SWR of 2:1 at HF on 100 feet of most coax types isn't a big deal. 10:1 is a different thing completely! So, if you can assure a good match between the antenna and the coax, or perhaps even one that transforms the antenna feed impedance to the transmitter's at all operating frequencies, then you have found the right solution for you and should go forward with whatever coax fits that solution... Agreed - but a good match doesn't have to be a perfect match. 73 de Jim, N2EY ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Installation of a KXB30 in KX-1
Kieth, I use 'Goop' on those pads. The pads will stick nicely to a flat surface, but the solder leads on the KXB30 are just not flat enough. Super-Glue and other thin adhesives do not have the gap filling characteristics that are needed. An alternative to Goop is something like 'ShoeGoo'. 73, Don W3FPR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I finally decided to operate on the KX-1 tonight and install the KXB30. I have the board pretty well installed. It was an interesting job to line up all those leads in the right place...but I believe I got it. I am ready to put it back together and do the tests. The only issue is that the little rubber bumpers that are to be installed on the KXB30 to keep it from touching the case have very little stickiness to them. I don't want to be shorting things out. The bumpers just come off. They don't have a good surface to stick to since they have to cover some of the solder joints and stick to that and the board. Is it OK to just use a little super glue or another expoxy to get them to stay in place? Would I damage the PCB? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Installation of a KXB30 in KX-1
Keith, While I expect it wouldn't harm anything, super glue *might* have some effect on anything that conducts, so I'd just apply it to the big areas where the feet rest on bare board. Also, I don't seem to remember having any problems with them. Hope you are able to resolve your issue... Regards, kurtt Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC The Pinrod Corporation [EMAIL PROTECTED] (773) 284-9500 http://pinrod.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a question about installing a KXB30 into my KX-1, but first...a little story about how much I like this radio. Compared to most of you I am a rookie at the building and operating in CWbut I do enjoy it. I have had the base 20/40 meter KX1 built for a while. Most of my contacts have been up and down the East Coast here and into Canada. I have made some nice contacts out west as a part of the 40M QRP Foxhunts. I am surprised how well the low power works. This Saturday I just managed to launch a wire up over a tree in the front near the house and then up to the peak of the roof. It looks sort of like an invereted L. I pulled the wires into the house and settled in. Decided to respond to a contest call on Saturday night in the OK/OM contest. I did not figure I had much of a chance in reaching the op in the Czech Republic..but it only took a few calls. My first DX with a KX-1. I plan to look for more. I finally decided to operate on the KX-1 tonight and install the KXB30. I have the board pretty well installed. It was an interesting job to line up all those leads in the right place...but I believe I got it. I am ready to put it back together and do the tests. The only issue is that the little rubber bumpers that are to be installed on the KXB30 to keep it from touching the case have very little stickiness to them. I don't want to be shorting things out. The bumpers just come off. They don't have a good surface to stick to since they have to cover some of the solder joints and stick to that and the board. Is it OK to just use a little super glue or another expoxy to get them to stay in place? Would I damage the PCB? Any and all advice appreciated. I cannot wait to get this radio on 30M. 73 de Keith KB3ILS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - KDSP2 Circuit Diagrams
Hi David, I assembled the KDSP2 recently and it worked fine. However, I assume that solder had wicked up into the J2 contacts - it was stiff to plug in the DSP board and then impossible to pull apart. This made it awkward to subsequently remove the front panel. So I broke up the plastic housing of the connectors with side-cutters, carefully, so I had thought, and pulled out the contact remnants one by one after removing as much solder as I could with solder wick and then putting a piece of bare, tinned bus wire heated by the soldering iron through each hole to clean it out. After the new connectors were installed, I encountered the trouble previously described, which is definitely self-inflicted and not a problem concerning faulty parts being supplied to me by Elecraft. Many thanks for your help. 73 Kevin VK3DAP / ZL2DAP David Wilburn wrote: Was the board installed and in service, and functional, or is this DSP newly built, and you are troubleshooting it? - David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 S/N 5982 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] [K3] SSB BW 6Khz with FL1=2.8Khz
I finished K3#51 (as far as QRP) a couple of hours ago, and have a filter question. I have FL1 setup as 2.8Khz and confirmed it in FL1 BW as 2.80. When I am in USB or LSB mode, I can adjust the width past 2.8 up to 6.0. The bar graph display maxes out at 3.60. There does seem to be an effect on the audio. I assume this means that the DSP filter is adjusted to pass the skirts of the 2.8Khz filter instead of cleaning them up. Is there a section in the manual I should read about these widths large-than-life widths, or any experience with them? 73, Leigh/WA5ZNU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Co-ax for the K2
Well written Ron! On Tuesday 13 November 2007 19:48, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Consider a center fed wire. At the frequency where the wire is at 1/2 wavelength long the impedance at the center is usually about 50 ohms (in free space it would be 75 ohms, but as one moves close to the earth, the impedance drops). At the frequency where the wire is 1 wavelength long, the impedance at the center feed point will be in the range of 3500 to 4000 ohms, depending again on the height. As it becomes longer in wavelengths, those impedance extremes decrease, so the maximum range of impedance values are from about 50 to 4000 ohms. Moving the feedpoint away from the center of the dipole will also reduce the impedance extremes. Yes, this will introduce some imbalance, but lets bust another myth. The center fed dipole in practical deployment is rarely balanced. Most dipoles do not have symmetrical surroundings or ground characteristics, nor do they have feedlines that run at a 90 degree angle to the antenna straight down to the shack. So what we are really talking about is the degree of imbalance. Like SWR, imbalance is not necessarily a bad thing. The other reason for loss at high SWRs is ohmic loss due to the extremely high currents at the current loops (points of maximum current). At even moderate power levels very large currents will occur there just as very high voltages appear at the voltage loops 1/4 wavelength away. RF flows only in the very surface of a conductor so the RF resistance of a conductor is much, much higher than its d-c resistance (unless the conductor is a very, very thin tube - probably too thin to handle). And it is these very current loops and nodes that can manifest themselves in RF in the shack problems. Antennas with a greater degree of imbalance are often blamed for the RF in the shack problems, and while greater imbalance does contribute to the problem, it is really much more of a feedline length problem. Again, it is rare to find, in practical deployment, a feedline with perfectly balanced currents. Change the feedline length and the current loops move. The trick in a multiband antenna system is to find the right length for all the bands the antenna system is to cover. In the old days, when open wire feed was the norm, sections of feedline were often switched in and out for the different bands. The right lengths resulted in manageable impedances for the tuner and kept RF out of the shack. And every station had a tuner, be it the pi network on the output of the tube amplifier or a purpose built wide range tuner. With the advent of solid state finals, manufacturers left out the tuners. This made the price of the fancy new rigs less, and since many hams used 50 ohm matched antennas systems such as the triband trap yagi, they could get by without the tuner. Interesting to see that the manufacturers have added tuners back into the rigs, at least as options. Most of these tuners are similar in matching abilities to the old tube pi networks. The Elecraft tuners are an exception to this as they have a wide range of impedance matching. Now we just have to remember the old wisdom to switch feedline lengths for different bands on a multiband antenna. The KRC2 is a nifty device to control relays to do just that. Yes, multiband antennas can be a challenge, but then again, any antenna is still better than no antenna. 73, Darrell VA7TO K2 #5093 -- Darrell Bellerive Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: SSB BW 6Khz with FL1=2.8Khz
Leigh, I have a task on the firmware list to restrict the DSP bandwidth to no greater than that of the widest installed filter. Even though you can widen it further, at present, it won't be very useful, and would probably just slightly increase the noise in the AF passband. If you notice anything else, feel free to e-mail me directly. 73, Wayne N6KR On Nov 13, 2007, at 10:29 PM, Leigh L. Klotz, Jr. wrote: I finished K3#51 (as far as QRP) a couple of hours ago, and have a filter question. I have FL1 setup as 2.8Khz and confirmed it in FL1 BW as 2.80. When I am in USB or LSB mode, I can adjust the width past 2.8 up to 6.0. The bar graph display maxes out at 3.60. There does seem to be an effect on the audio. I assume this means that the DSP filter is adjusted to pass the skirts of the 2.8Khz filter instead of cleaning them up. Is there a section in the manual I should read about these widths large-than-life widths, or any experience with them? 73, Leigh/WA5ZNU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
