date:20080705


Dave,

On the K2 the way to center the RIT is to remove the knob, turn the 
shaft until the frequency difference between RIT ON and OFF is zero, 
then replace the knob with the pointer straight up (with care not to 
move the shaft when installing the knob).


73,
Don W3FPR

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have a K2 that when I activate the RIT the received frequency drops 600  
Hz, too low to tune back to the frequency of the VFO so the contact is  lost.  
The only way that the RIT is on frequency with the VFO A is to turn  the RIT on 
before beginning the contact.  Then everything is as it should  be…..  Any 
suggestions?  I don’t see anything in the manual to explain  how to adjust the 
RIT or center it on the VFO frequency.
  


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Re: [Elecraft] Band button

Your lexicon must be quite different than mine.  In my 54 years of 
association with ham radio, we have had Amateur Bands.  Why would one 
want to label the device that changes between these bands as a 
frequency switch?  The VFO changes frequency, the band switch changes 
bands.


You are free to re-label yours -- just don't do the same to mine.

73,
Don W3FPR

K3KO wrote:

This isn't just the K3.  Other radios have the same problem.   It seems to be
a mistake that persisted through the years.

The button marked band with up and down arrows really is frequency.

You push the up arrow and the band goes down.  Press down arrow and band
goes up.

It would be nice to have this fixed in the K3.  No hope for other radios.

Right now I have a white sticky label with freq on it pasted over the band
marking.
  


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Mystery Part

2008-07-05 Thread Don Brown


Hi

This sounds like the mounting pad for the speaker shield. Check the assembly 
manual page 46. This pad is usually already installed inside the shield and 
you just remove the paper backing and stick it to the back of the speaker. 
Elecraft may be now supplying the pad separate from the shield or you may 
have an extra one.


Don

--
From: Brad Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 1:01 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Mystery Part

I just completed the parts inventory of my K3 and the accessories. I'm 
pleased to report that with the exception of the 6 kHz filter that is 
backordered, all components and hardware appear to be present and 
accounted for.


I have one part that doesn't show up on any of my parts lists. It is a 
rubber disc approximately 1 inch in diameter and 1/4 inch thick, with an 
adhesive backing. It looks like it could be used as a foot for the 
chassis, but is not listed as such. .


I quickly glanced through the assembly manual and didn't see a reference 
to it. Perhaps I  overlooked  something?


Can anyone tell me what it is used for?

Thanks and 73,

Brad
AA5CH


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Re: [Elecraft] Band button

2008-07-05 Thread Gregg R. Lengling

I think what he is trying to say is that if you hit the band up button, it 
actually selects a higher frequency band, not a higher band number.


ie:  I'm on 7020 (40 meters) and hit the ban up button it goes to 10,140 (30 
meters).  So it's not going to a higher number band but a higher frequency. 
I've never given this much thought over the last 45 years and just went with 
the convention.  I guess it's all semanticsanyhow Don is right, if you 
want re-label your controls, but don't change mine.


Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI
Administrator
http://www.milwaukeehdtv.org
http://forums.ham-radio.ch/


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Re: [K2] [Elecraft] K2 Trouble Shooting


Michael,

You apparently are having some kind of problem with the AUXBUS signal 
inside the K2.
I doubt if a reset will do any good, but if you want to try it, record 
all your menu settings (including all the filter settings) before doing 
the reset because the reset will restore all those settings to factory 
defaults.  If you wish to proceed with the reset, hold the 4, 5, and 6 
buttons down while powering the K2 on.


I would rather suggest that you reseat the microprocessor chip (control 
board U6) and the options that are not being recognized.  I am mystified 
because you did not say you were getting any INFO 080 messages which are 
the most common result of an AUXBUS communication failure.


73,
Don W3FPR

KC2EGL wrote:

Suddenly my DSP, Noise Blanker, Internal Antenna Tuner, and XV50(will not
power up when I change band to 6M, I have checked all cables for
continuity.) will not operate.  When I try to set my Noise Blanker the not
installed message shows on the display.  When I try to toggle my way through
to the DSP and other settings by pressing Display all I get is the power
setting screen displaying E13.7, 0.38 .  I have a feeling I may have nudged
something while working at my desk.  Is there  a way to reset everything?

Any and all help will be greatly apreciated.

73
Michael
KC2EGL
  




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Help

2008-07-05 Thread Steef PA2A


Mike,

Is the COM1 port properly working? I have seen COM port conflicts where two 
COM1 ports appeared in the hardware manager of Windows. One of the ports 
belonged to software for a network analyzer. Even if the analyzer software 
was not running and the analyzer was disconnected, the COM1 was visible 
twice. Programs like Microham that use virtual COM ports often conflict with 
other programs that use COM ports. Logging software can also claim COM 
ports, even if this software is not running.


After doing some COM port changes on the computer, do a reboot sometimes. 
Today I had put the K3 Firmware Software on the laptop, and after changing 
the KUSB from COM4 to COM1 a reboot was necessary because COM1 could not be 
seen before the reboot.


Try another PC if available to check.

Steef PA2A
#1184

- Original Message - 
From: Mike N8XPQ [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 12:55 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Help




I am using COM 1 and it is the only one available in the drop down list of
the K3 utility. The streaming characters stop when I unplug the COM cable
from the rear of the rig. This tells me that the K3 is for some reason
sending a solid stream of characters that can be seen in the command 
tester

page. The firmware page continues to say K3 is not responding or unable to
communicate with K3. I have no idea why the rig would be sending a stream 
of

characters.

Mike


Dick Dievendorff wrote:


The K3 Utility command tester is showing you the characters it is
receiving.
Something is sending data over that COM port.

Please make sure that the COM port you have selected in the PORTS tab is
the
one connected to your K3.

Try turning your K3's power off (by removing the power connector, if
necessary) and see if the data streaming stops. If it doesn't, the data
isn't coming from your K3; maybe the COM port is connected to something
else, or perhaps there's a defective cable.

Dick, K6KR



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike N8XPQ
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 6:01 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Help


I have noticed something new as well. When I click on the command tester
tab,
the window pops up and a strange y with 2 dots over top of it are
rapidly
scrolling across the screen and filling it up.H very strange? 
When

I
disconnect the serial cable from the rig, it stops.

Mike



Mike N8XPQ wrote:


My K3 is stuck in MCU LD mode. I have tried everything in reference to
the
com port settings. The K3 utility continues to say K3 not communicating.
I
have the latest version of the utility and have attempted to re-load 
2.10

firmware as well as 2.13 with no luck. I have also tried forcing a
firmware load  per the manual and directions in the firmware help files.
Still no luck. Any ideas? I really don't want to be with a dead 
rig

all weekend.

Thanks,

Mike N8XPQ




-
Mike Koetje N8XPQ
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-
Mike Koetje N8XPQ
--
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Re: [Elecraft] Band button

2008-07-05 Thread Brian Alsop


Don ,

I agree we think in bands.  That's why the band button arrows ought to 
do the right thing.


Here is the situation now:
I want to go from 20 to 10 meters.  I have to press the DOWN button to 
go from 10 --20.  Doesn't makes sense by any thought process.

Last I knew they still teach counting UP as  0, 1, 2, 3 10 20.

The DOWN arrow changes FREQUENCY down.That's why frequency is the 
right label.


Sure it is a nit.  However, more than half the time I end up going the 
wrong direction because I think in bands and conventional count 
directions..


73 de Brian/K3KO



Don Wilhelm wrote:

Your lexicon must be quite different than mine.  In my 54 years of 
association with ham radio, we have had Amateur Bands.  Why would 
one want to label the device that changes between these bands as a 
frequency switch?  The VFO changes frequency, the band switch 
changes bands.


You are free to re-label yours -- just don't do the same to mine.

73,
Don W3FPR

K3KO wrote:

This isn't just the K3.  Other radios have the same problem.   It 
seems to be

a mistake that persisted through the years.

The button marked band with up and down arrows really is frequency.

You push the up arrow and the band goes down.  Press down arrow and band
goes up.

It would be nice to have this fixed in the K3.  No hope for other 
radios.


Right now I have a white sticky label with freq on it pasted over the 
band

marking.
 





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Re: [Elecraft] Band button


So the 'light dawns'.
This is the situation that has been around since dirt was young.  The 
bands are usually referred to in terms of their wavelength (meters).  
Most people automatically think of 20 meters as being 'higher' than 30 
meters because the frequency is higher.  Of course there are exceptions, 
such as the common reference to 160 meters as Top Band and I have 
heard ops on (say) 20 meters who might comment Let's try a QSO up on 80 
meters.


If I am correct in that sort of thinking, perhaps he should just reverse 
the 'up' and 'down' arrows on the button instead of re-labeling it.


73,
Don W3FPR

Gregg R. Lengling wrote:
I think what he is trying to say is that if you hit the band up 
button, it actually selects a higher frequency band, not a higher band 
number.


ie:  I'm on 7020 (40 meters) and hit the ban up button it goes to 
10,140 (30 meters).  So it's not going to a higher number band but a 
higher frequency. I've never given this much thought over the last 45 
years and just went with the convention.  I guess it's all 
semanticsanyhow Don is right, if you want re-label your controls, 
but don't change mine.



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RE: [Elecraft] Split ops?

 
From what I can tell, the UPBn; has not been implemented.  All you can do is
use up;  (for 10 Hz on the VFO A)  So you must use 200 up;'s (not
practical).  Then do a swt11; (to swap VFO's).  Also use ft1; to turn on
split.  (That is a number one.)  All swh13; does is toggle split on and off.

Bob Serwy - N9RS

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of G4ILO
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 3:45 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Split ops?



Bob Serwy wrote:
 
  Yes there is.  I use it.
 
 'k31;swt13;swt13;k30;
 
 

OK. I mis-remembered the problem I had trying to get this to work.

I'm sending SWT13;SWT13;UPB4;UPB4;SWH13;

The two VFOs *are* being set to the same frequency and mode, and SPLIT is
being engaged, but VFO B is not being set 2KHz higher in frequency.

-
Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
KComm for K2/K3: www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
--
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[Elecraft] K3: Band Selection options

2008-07-05 Thread WA6OCP


I realize that we all work and think differently when it comes to ergonomics.

Personally, I don't use band buttons anymore.  The memories are so easy and
quick.

For each band, I have two, or more, dedicated memories with frequency and
mode.
Tap MV, spin the VFO A knob, tap MV and you are done.  Spin with caution -
you
can rip through dozens of memories in short order.  hi hi

73, Neal WA6OCP

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[Elecraft] hi

2008-07-05 Thread KEN

test message
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Band Selection options

2008-07-05 Thread drewko1

On Sat, 05 Jul 2008 06:16:16 -0700 (PDT), Neal WA6OCP wrote:


Personally, I don't use band buttons anymore.  The memories are so easy and
quick.

For each band, I have two, or more, dedicated memories with frequency and
mode.
Tap MV, spin the VFO A knob, tap MV and you are done.  Spin with caution -
you
can rip through dozens of memories in short order.  hi hi

73, Neal WA6OCP

I'm going to start doing this now that we have the ability to clear
memory locations. I usually go to the trouble of setting something
like this up only to figure out when finished I should have done it
differently. I'll put the CW ham bands in one bank and SWL bands in
another. Some often used channels in other banks.

Another advantage of memory selection of bands is you don't have to
clack through the relays on every intermediate band. This is not so
easy to accomplish with the Band buttons on the K3 as it was on the
K2. (Hey, I like to take care of my rig; why clack the relays
unnecessarily.)

73,
Drew
AF2Z



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Re: [Elecraft] 6m CW REV

2008-07-05 Thread Mike Harris

G'day,

Tested again.  With 2.13 6M CW memory saves return REV.  Maybe this only 
happens with saves after 2.13 has been installed and not with prior saves.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO



- Original Message - 
From: WA6OCP [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 5:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 6m CW REV


|
| I have 50.060 (CW) and 50.125 (SSB) saved in memories.  Just checked 
mine and
| it comes back as CW and not CWR.
|
| 73, Neal WA6OCP
|
|
| Stewart G3RXQ wrote:
| 
|  On 6m if I select the mode as CW, then save and recall from a
|  memory I get CW REV. Is this correct ?
| 
|  73
|  Stewart G3RXQ
| 
| 
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| No virus found in this incoming message.
| Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
| Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.5/1533 - Release Date: 
03/07/2008 19:19
|
|
| 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Help

2008-07-05 Thread Mike N8XPQ


I have confirmed that the Com port is functioning properly as I have run the
programming software for my HT on it. I have also tried several different
computers as well as laptops. I am convinced that the problem lies in the
K3. It refuses to communicate with the PC's. It seems to be stuck in the MCU
loading state and is not accepting any commands from the K3 loader software.
The last time the rig was functional it was operating on firmware version
2.10 and I had noticed a possible problem communicating with it via the com
port. I attempted to upgrade to the latest firmware and this is now where I
am stuck. When the K3 loader starts up it displays a message stating it is
unable to communicate with K3. At times when I display the command tester
screen it will show a strange y character with 2 dots on top of it
scrolling across and filling the screen. That will stop if I disconnect the
Com cable from the back of the rig. When I re-connect it and refresh the
command tester screen it starts up again displaying the strange character. I
have taken  out the K3IO board and re-seated it in the rig and the problem
persists.
ARGH 

Any help or further suggestions  PLEASE!:-)

Thanks in advance,

Mike N8XPQ



Mike N8XPQ wrote:
 
 My K3 is stuck in MCU LD mode. I have tried everything in reference to the
 com port settings. The K3 utility continues to say K3 not communicating. I
 have the latest version of the utility and have attempted to re-load 2.10
 firmware as well as 2.13 with no luck. I have also tried forcing a
 firmware load  per the manual and directions in the firmware help files.
 Still no luck. Any ideas? I really don't want to be with a dead rig
 all weekend.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Mike N8XPQ
 


-
Mike Koetje N8XPQ
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[Elecraft] Re: K3 Mystery Part

2008-07-05 Thread Brad Johnson

I've received several responses regarding the mystery part, most of which 
are associating it with the speaker shield.


However, the pad in my speaker shield is already in place, has adhesive 
backing on both sides, and is larger both in diameter and thickness than the 
mystery part.


Perhaps this is Elecraft's version of the Willy Wonka golden ticket and I 
have won a free trip to Aptos and a tour of the Elecraft factory?


Thanks for the numerous off list responses. I'm inclined to think that it 
may have been included in error or accidentally. If it does show up in the 
assembly instructions I'll follow up.


73,

Brad
AA5CH


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[Elecraft] RE: varicon capacitors--help

2008-07-05 Thread Robert 'RC' Conley

Thank You All
 I think I've gone with this about as far as I can go without an L/C
Meter. What I really need to do is mount one of these hummers so my
hand capacitance doesn't effect the readings and then measure each
section C# and T# to obtain a definite value for each section.I
bought 10 of these so I need to find out for certain. It also seems
there a multitude of different variation of this silly thing.Thanks to
everyone who responded.RC kc5wa

-- 
The Human Spirit is The Challenge,
The Voyage and The Expedition
72 de RC KC5WA
FP #567, NAQCC #420, NETX #43,
SKCC #089 ARCI-QRP #12572
http://www.kc5wa.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Band button

2008-07-05 Thread Mike Harris

G'day,

I've always thought of it as the next band UP or the next band DOWN 
determined by frequency, so the current legend is perfectly correct in 
that context.  Just one of those conventions I guess, suits me.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

- Original Message - 
From: Brian Alsop [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Band button


| Don ,
|
| I agree we think in bands.  That's why the band button arrows ought to
| do the right thing.
|
| Here is the situation now:
| I want to go from 20 to 10 meters.  I have to press the DOWN button to
| go from 10 --20.  Doesn't makes sense by any thought process.
| Last I knew they still teach counting UP as  0, 1, 2, 3 10 20.
|
| The DOWN arrow changes FREQUENCY down.That's why frequency is the
| right label.
|
| Sure it is a nit.  However, more than half the time I end up going the
| wrong direction because I think in bands and conventional count
| directions..
|
| 73 de Brian/K3KO
|
|
|
| Don Wilhelm wrote:
|
|  Your lexicon must be quite different than mine.  In my 54 years of
|  association with ham radio, we have had Amateur Bands.  Why would
|  one want to label the device that changes between these bands as a
|  frequency switch?  The VFO changes frequency, the band switch
|  changes bands.
| 
|  You are free to re-label yours -- just don't do the same to mine.
| 
|  73,
|  Don W3FPR
| 
|  K3KO wrote:
| 
|  This isn't just the K3.  Other radios have the same problem.   It
|  seems to be
|  a mistake that persisted through the years.
| 
|  The button marked band with up and down arrows really is frequency.
| 
|  You push the up arrow and the band goes down.  Press down arrow and 
band
|  goes up.
| 
|  It would be nice to have this fixed in the K3.  No hope for other
|  radios.
| 
|  Right now I have a white sticky label with freq on it pasted over the
|  band
|  marking.

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Mystery Part

2008-07-05 Thread Phillip Buckholdt

Sounds like one of the feet for a XV series transverter.

Phil
- Original Message - 
From: Brad Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 10:17 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Mystery Part

I've received several responses regarding the mystery part, most of which 
are associating it with the speaker shield.

However, the pad in my speaker shield is already in place, has adhesive 
backing on both sides, and is larger both in diameter and thickness than 
the mystery part.

Perhaps this is Elecraft's version of the Willy Wonka golden ticket and I 
have won a free trip to Aptos and a tour of the Elecraft factory?

Thanks for the numerous off list responses. I'm inclined to think that it 
may have been included in error or accidentally. If it does show up in the 
assembly instructions I'll follow up.

73,

Brad
AA5CH

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Mystery Part


Brad,

OK, that is your admission ticket for a free tour of the Elecraft 
facility :-) .  Your transport to Aptos is not included :-( .


73,
Don W3FPR

Brad Johnson wrote:


Perhaps this is Elecraft's version of the Willy Wonka golden ticket 
and I have won a free trip to Aptos and a tour of the Elecraft factory?



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[Elecraft] K3 bail height

2008-07-05 Thread Keith Bainbridge

After owning my K3 for over 6 months now I still find the height of the 
bail annoying.
Is there anyone out there interested in making a lower height bail, say 
30 mm or 1.125 lower ??
As it stands it gives me a pain in the wrist tuning around, and I spend 
a lot of time tuning around as here in Western Australia there certainly 
isn't too much to hear on ANY band at present!!



--
Keith
VK6XH / VK6DXR
K3, 2 x K2's and KX1
Chairman WIA VK6 Advisory Committee.
Northern Corridor Radio Group Inc VK6ANC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 bail height

2008-07-05 Thread S Sacco

Keith -

If you need it lowered that much, perhaps just put something under the
front feet?

73,
Steve NN4X


 Is there anyone out there interested in making a lower height bail, say 30
 mm or 1.125 lower ??
 As it stands it gives me a pain in the wrist tuning around, and I spend a
 lot of time tuning around as here in Western Australia there certainly isn't
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[Elecraft] KRX3 KDVR Install

2008-07-05 Thread James Denneny

Can anyone tell me if the future installation of KDVR will also require
removal of front panel?  If yes, I may wait for its availability to install
both items at the same time.  The Elecraft website says KDVR should be
available following production release of KRX3 - whatever that means.

 

Jim

K7EG

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 bail height

That was going to be my suggestion until you beat me to it.  I was 
measuring the bail projection from the bottom of the feet and find it is 
1.75 inches, so a 0.5 inch thick piece of something (wood, plastic, 
paperback book, etc) under the front feet will produce the requested 
result.  That is too small to even consider a bail.


73,
Don W3FPR

S Sacco wrote:

Keith -

If you need it lowered that much, perhaps just put something under the
front feet?

73,
Steve NN4X


  

Is there anyone out there interested in making a lower height bail, say 30
mm or 1.125 lower ??
As it stands it gives me a pain in the wrist tuning around, and I spend a
lot of time tuning around as here in Western Australia there certainly isn't


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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.5/1536 - Release Date: 7/5/2008 10:15 AM




  

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[Elecraft] K3 band button perspective

2008-07-05 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL

FYI...

If someone says, I like the low bands, I know that they mean
40/80/160.  The high bands are (before WARC) 20, 15, and 10.

ON4UN's book, covering operations on 40/80 and especially 160 is
titled LOW BAND DXING.

http://www.angelfire.com/md/k3ky/page20.html
If you like DXing on the low bands, 160, 80, 40, and 30 meters, these
sites may be of interest- they include info about both TX and low
noise receiving antennas and techniques.

http://www.n0hr.com/hamradio/136/10/ham_radio0.htm
Ham Radio: Low bands (160, 80, 40)
Description:  Low band topics. Ham radio operators consider the 160
meter, 80/75 meter, and 40 meter bands to be the low bands. These
bands present challenges to ham radio antenna design (especially on
small lots), propagation (these bands are best at dawn and dusk - aka
grayline propagation), and noise (these bands often have weather
related noise).

Since I never use the band toggle anymore (everything I need is in
the front panel memory buttons), this is moot for me.  But the current
labeling does make perfect sense to me, so I won't be adding any
additional labels.

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] Band button

2008-07-05 Thread David Yarnes


Brian,

While I see your point clearly, I'm not sure it holds up 
under what has been the convention just about forever.  At 
first blush it does seem to be contradictory. Yes, the band 
numbers actually do go down, rather than up, as frequency 
increases.  However, We have always considered 20 meters, 
for example, to be a higher band than 40 meters.  We think 
of 10, 15, and 20 as the high bands, and 40, 80, and 160 
as the lower bands.  That's because in actuality, the 
reference is not to the band number, or wavelength, being 
higher, but to the band of frequencies (in khz and mhz), 
which are indeed higher.  In other words, it's just 
shorthand.  In fact, the term band is often thought of, 
not just in terms of wavelength, but in terms of frequency. 
If you ask someone what band they like to operate on, for 
example, they commonly respond with a frequency reference, 
like 7 mhz.  Also, I'd be willing to bet that you yourself 
refer to 20 or10 meters as a high band, and not a low band, 
when you are making a comparison to the lower frequency 
bands.


In any event, you aren't going to convince very many people 
to change their ways at this point.  Whether it's totally 
logical or not, it is the commonly accepted convention.  And 
it's the accepted reference world-wide.  So, unfortunately, 
you are Don Quixote at the windmill!  Just imagine if ON4UN 
had to issue an apology to the world for having mis-titled 
his classic antenna book about Low Band DXing.  Just about 
everything between the covers is about 40, 80, and 160 
meters!


Good try, but no sale!

Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: Brian Alsop [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 5:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Band button



Don ,

I agree we think in bands.  That's why the band button 
arrows ought to do the right thing.


Here is the situation now:
I want to go from 20 to 10 meters.  I have to press the 
DOWN button to go from 10 --20.  Doesn't makes sense by 
any thought process.
Last I knew they still teach counting UP as  0, 1, 2, 3 
10 20.


The DOWN arrow changes FREQUENCY down.That's why 
frequency is the right label.


Sure it is a nit.  However, more than half the time I end 
up going the wrong direction because I think in bands and 
conventional count directions..


73 de Brian/K3KO



Don Wilhelm wrote:

Your lexicon must be quite different than mine.  In my 54 
years of association with ham radio, we have had Amateur 
Bands.  Why would one want to label the device that 
changes between these bands as a frequency switch?  The 
VFO changes frequency, the band switch changes bands.


You are free to re-label yours -- just don't do the same 
to mine.


73,
Don W3FPR

K3KO wrote:

This isn't just the K3.  Other radios have the same 
problem.   It seems to be

a mistake that persisted through the years.

The button marked band with up and down arrows really 
is frequency.


You push the up arrow and the band goes down.  Press 
down arrow and band

goes up.

It would be nice to have this fixed in the K3.  No hope 
for other radios.


Right now I have a white sticky label with freq on it 
pasted over the band

marking.






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[Elecraft] K3 bail height

2008-07-05 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL

I can't help you with the bail height, but if the bands are typical
dead (sparsely populated), consider using the SCAN function.  Just sit
back and let the rig do the work.

Doug
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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 KDVR Install

2008-07-05 Thread Lyle Johnson


James Denneny wrote:

Can anyone tell me if the future installation of KDVR will also require
removal of front panel? 


Yes.  The DVR plugs into the main DSP board, just like the Aux DSP for 
the KRX3.


73,

Lyle KK7P

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[Elecraft] K2 Build Sequence Question

2008-07-05 Thread Jon Perelstein

I'm thinking of building a K2.  My thought is that I eventually want a K2 w/ 
100 watts and SSB, but I'd like to take it in stages by first building a K2, 
then upping it to 100 watts, and then finally adding SSB.  

More specifically, I thought I'd do the following:

1.  Order the K2 and a KAT100 this week (I figure the KAT100 rather than the 
KAT2 given my intention of eventually moving up to 100 watts).  I expect that 
I'll also add the KNB2 at this point since things can be pretty noisy at my QTH.

2. Add the KDSP2 later this year (Nov/Dec) once I get some familiarity with the 
K2 itself.

3. Add the KPA100 around April 2009, which should be just in time for me to 
work with it a little before Field Day 2009.

4.  Add the KSB2 at some later date (probably sometime in the first half of 
2010).

For those who have done something like this -- or at least thought about it -- 
are there any significant gotcha's that you think I should know about?  Is 
adding the KPA100 or the KSB2 very difficult and would you strongly argue 
against adding later versus build now?  Should I switch the sequence (e.g., SSB 
first, then 100 watts)?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Jon
KB1QBZ


  
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[Elecraft] K3 soon to arrive

2008-07-05 Thread Dick Housden, W0NTA

I ordered my K3 on February 19. Received notice from Katie on July 2. She 
shipped it on July 3 and it should arrive on July 9 according to UPS. It is 
a kit K3/100 with the auto tuner, 1.0KHz filter, and 400Hz filter. Nothing 
backordered. I hope to have it on the air next weekend.


73, Dick, W0NTA
Greeley, CO 


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[Elecraft] K3 Band switching feature request

2008-07-05 Thread drewko1

Would it be possible to have the Band Up/Down buttons operate upon a
sequential memory range (similar to Channel Hopping, only manually via
the Up/Down buttons, not scanned). Then you could define your own
bands (CW, SSB, SWBC, etc.) and choose which one you want the Band
Up/Down buttons to act on. 

73,
Drew
AF2Z

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Build Sequence Question

2008-07-05 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire

That's exactly how the K2 was designed to be built, Jon.

The design is modular so you can add the bits at any time. Each is
independent of the others. 

When building it all at once, you're still cautioned to do it in stages like
that, testing the performance at each point to be sure all is well, before
going on.

That way, if you have any problems, it's much easier to find and fix them. 

BTW, the K3 is designed the same way. The breakdown is different but, like
all Elecraft rigs, the modular design allows you to add the features you
want when you want.

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
I'm thinking of building a K2.  My thought is that I eventually want a K2 w/
100 watts and SSB, but I'd like to take it in stages by first building a K2,
then upping it to 100 watts, and then finally adding SSB.  

More specifically, I thought I'd do the following:

1.  Order the K2 and a KAT100 this week (I figure the KAT100 rather than the
KAT2 given my intention of eventually moving up to 100 watts).  I expect
that I'll also add the KNB2 at this point since things can be pretty noisy
at my QTH.

2. Add the KDSP2 later this year (Nov/Dec) once I get some familiarity with
the K2 itself.

3. Add the KPA100 around April 2009, which should be just in time for me to
work with it a little before Field Day 2009.

4.  Add the KSB2 at some later date (probably sometime in the first half of
2010).

For those who have done something like this -- or at least thought about it
-- are there any significant gotcha's that you think I should know about?
Is adding the KPA100 or the KSB2 very difficult and would you strongly argue
against adding later versus build now?  Should I switch the sequence (e.g.,
SSB first, then 100 watts)?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Jon
KB1QBZ


  
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Build Sequence Question

2008-07-05 Thread Dick Dievendorff

I can't comment on the KPA100 or KAT100.

Your intentions of an incremental build make sense to me. 

I'd make sure that the KAT100 will function as an autotuner with the basic
10 watt rig (I'm not sure it doesn't, but I'd check).

Do you really need the KAT100 initially?  If you have antennas with
reasonable SWR maybe you could wait and get the KAT100 with the KPA100.

The KSB2 is a bit more busy than most other K2 boards, but once you've
built it, the installation on the K3 is pretty straightforward.

Some builders would suggest using rework eliminators for a staged build.  I
did use them, and the only one I wish I hadn't installed is the transverter
rework eliminator. I have/had no plans for the K2 transverter support, and I
ended up backing out the install of that particular rework eliminator
because it caused more difficulty than it solved. 

Others on this forum with more K2 experience than I will chime in, I'm sure.
I've just built one K2, and it's the QRP version.

73 de Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jon Perelstein
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 9:19 AM
To: elecraft reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Build Sequence Question

I'm thinking of building a K2.  My thought is that I eventually want a K2 w/
100 watts and SSB, but I'd like to take it in stages by first building a K2,
then upping it to 100 watts, and then finally adding SSB.  

More specifically, I thought I'd do the following:

1.  Order the K2 and a KAT100 this week (I figure the KAT100 rather than the
KAT2 given my intention of eventually moving up to 100 watts).  I expect
that I'll also add the KNB2 at this point since things can be pretty noisy
at my QTH.

2. Add the KDSP2 later this year (Nov/Dec) once I get some familiarity with
the K2 itself.

3. Add the KPA100 around April 2009, which should be just in time for me to
work with it a little before Field Day 2009.

4.  Add the KSB2 at some later date (probably sometime in the first half of
2010).

For those who have done something like this -- or at least thought about it
-- are there any significant gotcha's that you think I should know about?
Is adding the KPA100 or the KSB2 very difficult and would you strongly argue
against adding later versus build now?  Should I switch the sequence (e.g.,
SSB first, then 100 watts)?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Jon
KB1QBZ


  
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Build Sequence Question

2008-07-05 Thread Dick Dievendorff

I checked, the KAT100 supports the basic K2 without the KPA100.

I wish I'd checked before I sent the note below.

Sorry,
Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dick Dievendorff
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 9:44 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'elecraft reflector'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Build Sequence Question

I can't comment on the KPA100 or KAT100.

Your intentions of an incremental build make sense to me. 

I'd make sure that the KAT100 will function as an autotuner with the basic
10 watt rig (I'm not sure it doesn't, but I'd check).

Do you really need the KAT100 initially?  If you have antennas with
reasonable SWR maybe you could wait and get the KAT100 with the KPA100.

The KSB2 is a bit more busy than most other K2 boards, but once you've
built it, the installation on the K3 is pretty straightforward.

Some builders would suggest using rework eliminators for a staged build.  I
did use them, and the only one I wish I hadn't installed is the transverter
rework eliminator. I have/had no plans for the K2 transverter support, and I
ended up backing out the install of that particular rework eliminator
because it caused more difficulty than it solved. 

Others on this forum with more K2 experience than I will chime in, I'm sure.
I've just built one K2, and it's the QRP version.

73 de Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jon Perelstein
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 9:19 AM
To: elecraft reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Build Sequence Question

I'm thinking of building a K2.  My thought is that I eventually want a K2 w/
100 watts and SSB, but I'd like to take it in stages by first building a K2,
then upping it to 100 watts, and then finally adding SSB.  

More specifically, I thought I'd do the following:

1.  Order the K2 and a KAT100 this week (I figure the KAT100 rather than the
KAT2 given my intention of eventually moving up to 100 watts).  I expect
that I'll also add the KNB2 at this point since things can be pretty noisy
at my QTH.

2. Add the KDSP2 later this year (Nov/Dec) once I get some familiarity with
the K2 itself.

3. Add the KPA100 around April 2009, which should be just in time for me to
work with it a little before Field Day 2009.

4.  Add the KSB2 at some later date (probably sometime in the first half of
2010).

For those who have done something like this -- or at least thought about it
-- are there any significant gotcha's that you think I should know about?
Is adding the KPA100 or the KSB2 very difficult and would you strongly argue
against adding later versus build now?  Should I switch the sequence (e.g.,
SSB first, then 100 watts)?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Jon
KB1QBZ


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 soon to arrive

2008-07-05 Thread Dave Hachadorian

- Original Message - 
From: Dick Housden, W0NTA [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 9:23 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 soon to arrive

I ordered my K3 on February 19. Received notice from Katie 
on July 2. She shipped it on July 3 and it should arrive on 
July 9 according to UPS. It is a kit K3/100 with the auto 
tuner, 1.0KHz filter, and 400Hz filter. Nothing 
backordered. I hope to have it on the air next weekend.

73, Dick, W0NTA
Greeley, CO

Make sure you have a mixer board in the kit. Several K3 kits 
have been shipped recently with missing mixer boards. The 
mixer board is used early in the construction project, so 
it's pretty much a show-stopper.

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Big Bear Lake, CA

. 

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 soon to arrive

2008-07-05 Thread M0TXD

I ordered my K3 on February 19. Received notice from Katie on July 2. 
She shipped it on July 3 and it should arrive on July 9 according to 
UPS. It is a kit K3/100 with the auto tuner, 1.0KHz filter, and 400Hz 
filter. Nothing backordered. I hope to have it on the air next weekend.


73, Dick, W0NTA
Greeley, CO


Make sure you have a mixer board in the kit. Several K3 kits have been 
shipped recently with missing mixer boards. The mixer board is used 
early in the construction project, so it's pretty much a show-stopper.


Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Big Bear Lake, CA

Hi Dick, Dave is quite right, make sure you do a complete inventory 
before beginning the build, there are at least three K3's supplied 
without mixers. If you find a missing mixer board, it will not stop you 
from building the kit, but it will be deaf and you will not be able to 
run any setup. It will power up ok.


Just add the fixture post when building the kit ready for the mixer 
board when it arrives, then just pop the top of the K3 and fit the new 
board, it only takes a couple of minutes.


I'm still waiting fro my mixer, reported it on and recieved a reply on 
Wednesday, but no mixer yet. But as the office was close for 4th July I 
didn't expect it beofre the weekend.


Enjoy your new radio.

73's

Garry - M0TXD
Worcester, UK
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[Elecraft] K3: AF Gain delay?

2008-07-05 Thread Joel R. Hallas

Folks,

I notice a significant delay in response to the AF Gain control while in
receive so far just one receiver here!). I'm not sure if it has always been
this way and I hadn't observed it b4, but certainly for the last few F/W
upgrades. I haven't done the most recent beta version since my radio PC is
currently casters up.

It doesn't matter the mode, BW, AGC or NR setting. With a loud signal
present, turning the AG Gain down seems to have no effect until it is down
way too far, likewise when bringing it back up to compensate. I finally
decided it was working, just exhibiting a delay of somewhere around 1/4 -
1/2 second. 

Have others noted this and/or, better yet, found a way to avoid it?

Thanks much! 

Regards, Joel
Joel R. Hallas, W1ZR


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RE: [Elecraft] K3: AF Gain delay?

I haven't noticed it here.  I have the latest beta.

Bob Serwy - N9RS

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joel R. Hallas
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 1:49 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: AF Gain delay?

Folks,

I notice a significant delay in response to the AF Gain control while in
receive so far just one receiver here!). I'm not sure if it has always been
this way and I hadn't observed it b4, but certainly for the last few F/W
upgrades. I haven't done the most recent beta version since my radio PC is
currently casters up.

It doesn't matter the mode, BW, AGC or NR setting. With a loud signal
present, turning the AG Gain down seems to have no effect until it is down
way too far, likewise when bringing it back up to compensate. I finally
decided it was working, just exhibiting a delay of somewhere around 1/4 -
1/2 second. 

Have others noted this and/or, better yet, found a way to avoid it?

Thanks much! 

Regards, Joel
Joel R. Hallas, W1ZR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Mystery Part

On Sat, 5 Jul 2008 07:42:52 -0500, Don Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hi

This sounds like the mounting pad for the speaker shield. Check the assembly 
manual page 46. This pad is usually already installed inside the shield and 
you just remove the paper backing and stick it to the back of the speaker. 
Elecraft may be now supplying the pad separate from the shield or you may 
have an extra one.

Don

[snip]

I'm pretty sure it's one of the feet used on the XV Series Transverters.  That's
an exact description of them.

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

Those who would give up 
Essential Liberty to 
purchase a little Temporary 
Safety deserve neither 
Liberty nor Safety 

An excerpt from a letter 
written in 1755 from the 
Assembly to the Governor 
of Pennsylvania.

Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] Band button

On Sat, 5 Jul 2008 04:11:59 -0700 (PDT), K3KO [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


This isn't just the K3.  Other radios have the same problem.   It seems to be
a mistake that persisted through the years.

The button marked band with up and down arrows really is frequency.

You push the up arrow and the band goes down.  Press down arrow and band
goes up.

It would be nice to have this fixed in the K3.  No hope for other radios.

Right now I have a white sticky label with freq on it pasted over the band
marking.

73 de Brian/K3KO

I would be very confused by your change, but do see what you mean.

I looked at my drake R7 and see that the BAND switch on it doesn't have any
band labels on it; Only frequency ranges.  It seems that Drake shared your
thoughts there, but Drake radios were made for any frequency between .5Mhz and
30Mhz, so their labeling on their radios seems appropriate to me.

73,

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

Those who would give up 
Essential Liberty to 
purchase a little Temporary 
Safety deserve neither 
Liberty nor Safety 

An excerpt from a letter 
written in 1755 from the 
Assembly to the Governor 
of Pennsylvania.

Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] Band button

2008-07-05 Thread PhilB

Please Elecraft, leave the Band Button the way it is now.  


Phil K7PB

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]



This is the situation that has been around since dirt was young.  The 
bands are usually referred to in terms of their wavelength (meters).  
Most people automatically think of 20 meters as being 'higher' than 30 
meters because the frequency is higher

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: AF Gain delay?

On Sat, 05 Jul 2008 14:48:37 -0400, Joel R. Hallas [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

Folks,

I notice a significant delay in response to the AF Gain control while in
receive so far just one receiver here!). I'm not sure if it has always been
this way and I hadn't observed it b4, but certainly for the last few F/W
upgrades. I haven't done the most recent beta version since my radio PC is
currently casters up.


I had the same problem several weeks ago.  Check the AF knob and see if it's
cracked and slipping on the shaft.  My unit was a factory built unit.


[snip]

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

Those who would give up 
Essential Liberty to 
purchase a little Temporary 
Safety deserve neither 
Liberty nor Safety 

An excerpt from a letter 
written in 1755 from the 
Assembly to the Governor 
of Pennsylvania.

Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] Band button

On Sat, 5 Jul 2008 04:11:59 -0700 (PDT), K3KO [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


This isn't just the K3.  Other radios have the same problem.   It seems to be
a mistake that persisted through the years.

The button marked band with up and down arrows really is frequency.

You push the up arrow and the band goes down.  Press down arrow and band
goes up.

It would be nice to have this fixed in the K3.  No hope for other radios.

Right now I have a white sticky label with freq on it pasted over the band
marking.

73 de Brian/K3KO

Now that I think of it the label on a button that worked the way you would like
it to be would be labeled Wavelength.  That would put 160m at the top and 6m at
the bottom.

Please don't do that Elecraft.

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

Those who would give up 
Essential Liberty to 
purchase a little Temporary 
Safety deserve neither 
Liberty nor Safety 

An excerpt from a letter 
written in 1755 from the 
Assembly to the Governor 
of Pennsylvania.

Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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[Elecraft] Band change button

2008-07-05 Thread Ken Kopp


Yes, I strongly prefer it as it is.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

--

Please Elecraft, leave the Band Button the way it is now.

Phil K7PB

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]



This is the situation that has been around since dirt was young.  The 
bands are usually referred to in terms of their wavelength (meters). 
Most people automatically think of 20 meters as being 'higher' than 30 
meters because the frequency is higher 


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[Elecraft] K3: AF Gain delay?

2008-07-05 Thread Ken Kopp


I also had a cracked knob w/same symptoms. (:-))  Aptos sent
replacement same day.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

--

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Childers, N5GE

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, 05 July, 2008 19:52
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: AF Gain delay?


On Sat, 05 Jul 2008 14:48:37 -0400, Joel R. Hallas 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

wrote:


Folks,

I notice a significant delay in response to the AF Gain control while 
in
receive so far just one receiver here!). I'm not sure if it has always 
been
this way and I hadn't observed it b4, but certainly for the last few 
F/W
upgrades. I haven't done the most recent beta version since my radio PC 
is

currently casters up.



I had the same problem several weeks ago.  Check the AF knob and see if 
it's

cracked and slipping on the shaft.  My unit was a factory built unit.


[snip]

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build Sequence Question

Jon,

The KAT100 can be used with the basic K2, there are 4 internal K2
signals that must be routed to the KAT100 for it to function. So the
base K2 MUST be equipped with the KIO2 or a suitable substitute (see the
websites dealing with the external KPA100 for the substitute - if it
works for the KPA100, it will also work for the KAT100).

If you can manage the finances initially, I would suggest that you
purchase the KSB2 initially. There are components from that option to
be added to the front panel. While it is not a burdensome chore to take
the face plate off the front panel board later, it certainly is easier
if you add those components before you mount the front panel board to
the metal plate.

Other than those comments given only for your consideration, your plan
sounds fine.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jon Perelstein wrote:
I'm thinking of building a K2. My thought is that I eventually want a K2 w/ 100 watts and SSB, but I'd like to take it in stages by first building a K2, then upping it to 100 watts, and then finally adding SSB.

More specifically, I thought I'd do the following:

1. Order the K2 and a KAT100 this week (I figure the KAT100 rather than the
KAT2 given my intention of eventually moving up to 100 watts). I expect that
I'll also add the KNB2 at this point since things can be pretty noisy at my QTH.

2. Add the KDSP2 later this year (Nov/Dec) once I get some familiarity with the
K2 itself.

3. Add the KPA100 around April 2009, which should be just in time for me to
work with it a little before Field Day 2009.

4. Add the KSB2 at some later date (probably sometime in the first half of
2010).

For those who have done something like this -- or at least thought about it --
are there any significant gotcha's that you think I should know about? Is
adding the KPA100 or the KSB2 very difficult and would you strongly argue
against adding later versus build now? Should I switch the sequence (e.g., SSB
first, then 100 watts)?

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2008-07-05 Thread Kevin Rock

Good Afternoon,
   I have to get this out before I lose my phone line again.  Rain is getting 
into everything and my Internet connection keeps getting dropped.  Ever since 
yesterday around noon it has been chilly and wet.  This morning we got a lot of 
rain and now we are getting more.  I am thinking about starting a fire to warm 
up the house.  Sam is giving me 'the look' which normally means he is cold and 
wants a fire.  Propagation on 20 meters was poor this week.  Nothing like what 
we had during the Field Day activities.  I am not sure what happened.  No 
coronal holes, no reports of aurora, just poor propagation.  However, we will 
try to make things work.  I cannot go outside to cut wood even though the 
temperature is perfect for that activity.  There is simply too much rain.  
Felling trees when the ground is muddy is not safe.  I am working my way 
through a bunch of trees which are leaning due to broken roots from the wind 
storm.  Getting them to fall correctly is not going well.  This means I need to 
repeatedly whack off four foot chunks and let it fall again.  Once they get 
hung up in their neighbors it is a laborious, dangerous procedure.  I try not 
to get squished in the process.  I may try the two come-alongs I gave Pat for 
Christmas a few years ago.  Yes, they were a Christmas present.  Don't worry I 
gave her something nice too, I am not [that] crazy :)  They may be able to move 
the recalcitrant tree out of the crown of the other.  But then I am stuck with 
a come-along attached to a falling tree.  I need to rethink my methodology!  
Please remember Tom is not going to be with us except in spirit.  He is doing 
very well so he may be helping us again on ECN soon.  

Please join us tomorrow evening.
 
1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help (as well as QSP/QNP relay help)
 
Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0200z (Sunday 7 PM PDT)  7045 kHz
 
   Stay well,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS

ecn.visionseer.com

-
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[Elecraft] Betas Not Showing on FTP Site

2008-07-05 Thread AE4CW


I can't find the two most recent betas.  Only 2.00 is visible in the FTP beta
directory dated 06/06.  Is anyone else having this problem or just me?  Tnx.
Chuck, AE4CW

-
Chuck, AE4CW
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/Betas-Not-Showing-on-FTP-Site-tp18296234p18296234.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] RE: K3: AF Gain delay?

2008-07-05 Thread Joel R. Hallas

Thanks to all for the suggestion of a cracked knob. I was hoping, but mine
didn't seem cracked, and there was no play at the ends of travel. I swapped
the AF and RF gain knobs to be sure, and it made no difference. Any other
ideas?

Regards, Joel
Joel R. Hallas, W1ZR


On Sat, 05 Jul 2008 14:48:37 -0400, Joel R. Hallas 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

Folks,

I notice a significant delay in response to the AF Gain control while 
in
receive (so far just one receiver here!). I'm not sure if it has always 
been
this way and I hadn't observed it b4, but certainly for the last few 
F/W
upgrades. I haven't done the most recent beta version since my radio PC 
is
currently casters up.


I had the same problem several weeks ago.  Check the AF knob and see if 
it's
cracked and slipping on the shaft.  My unit was a factory built unit.


[snip]

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq 



--

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End of Elecraft Digest, Vol 51, Issue 11


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RE: [Elecraft] Split ops?

I was able to get the up4 (not the upb4) to work by keeping this command in
a separate macro from the sw commands.

Bob Serwy - N9RS

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of G4ILO
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 3:45 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Split ops?

Bob Serwy wrote:

  Yes there is.  I use it.

 'k31;swt13;swt13;k30;

OK. I mis-remembered the problem I had trying to get this to work.

I'm sending SWT13;SWT13;UPB4;UPB4;SWH13;

The two VFOs *are* being set to the same frequency and mode, and SPLIT is
being engaged, but VFO B is not being set 2KHz higher in frequency.

-
Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
KComm for K2/K3: www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
--
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/Split-ops--tp18282086p18290111.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: AF Gain delay?

2008-07-05 Thread Fred Jensen


Joel R. Hallas wrote:

Folks,

I notice a significant delay in response to the AF Gain control while in
receive so far just one receiver here!). I'm not sure if it has always been
this way and I hadn't observed it b4, but certainly for the last few F/W
upgrades. I haven't done the most recent beta version since my radio PC is
currently casters up.

It doesn't matter the mode, BW, AGC or NR setting. With a loud signal
present, turning the AG Gain down seems to have no effect until it is down
way too far, likewise when bringing it back up to compensate. I finally
decided it was working, just exhibiting a delay of somewhere around 1/4 -
1/2 second. 



Mine [#642, home built, 2.13 FW] doesn't exhibit any delay that I can tell.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2008 Cal QSO Party  4-5 Oct 08
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] Betas Not Showing on FTP Site

2008-07-05 Thread Augie Hansen


AE4CW wrote:

I can't find the two most recent betas.  Only 2.00 is visible in the FTP beta
directory dated 06/06.  Is anyone else having this problem or just me?  Tnx.


The following URL should take you to the beta firmware folder:

   ftp://ftp.elecraft.com/K3/firmware/beta

It's the one specified on the *K3 **Beta Test Firmware Instructions* 
page. If you don't see the notes file and the two latest firmware ZIP 
files, your browser may be using a cached page. Force the browser to 
reload the page.


Good luck,

Gus Hansen
KB0YH

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Re: [Elecraft] Band button

2008-07-05 Thread Fred Jensen


K3KO wrote:

This isn't just the K3.  Other radios have the same problem.   It seems to be
a mistake that persisted through the years.

The button marked band with up and down arrows really is frequency.

You push the up arrow and the band goes down.  Press down arrow and band
goes up.

It would be nice to have this fixed in the K3.  No hope for other radios.

Right now I have a white sticky label with freq on it pasted over the band
marking.



As Don said, back when dirt was young [and I can almost but not quite 
remember that], everything was in wavelength.  The Holy Wavelength was 
600 meters.  So as you went down in frequency, you were going up in 
wavelength, hence 1.8 mc = 160 m = Top Band.  By the time I became 
KN6DGW [1953], the bands were still noted in wavelength [and still are], 
about half the people used terminology like 10 is going dead, I think 
I'll head 'down' to 20, and the other half would say, I'm going 'down' 
to 10 and see if it's open.  By the time I found myself on 600 meters 
['56-'57], the Holy Wavelength had mostly become the Holy Frequency [500 
kcs], and most everyone on the ham bands thought 10m was above 20m.


I have my K2 and K3 so it doesn't matter, but if I didn't and was 
waiting for it and had a vote, I'd vote for it the way it is.  For me, 
20m is not a number on a wavelength scale, it's the name of a band, 
just like the alternate name of 75m in the evening is The Medical Band.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2008 Cal QSO Party  4-5 Oct 08
- www.cqp.org

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Re: [Elecraft] RE: K3: AF Gain delay?


Joel,

Remove both knobs from the concentric shafts and see if the nut holding 
the control to the front panel has loosened.  Yes, the pots are fastened 
to the board so you might not notice it at end of rotation, but a loose 
mounting nut can impart a 'squishy' feel when the knob is rotated 
because of the slight flexing.


73,
Don W3FPR

Joel R. Hallas wrote:

Thanks to all for the suggestion of a cracked knob. I was hoping, but mine
didn't seem cracked, and there was no play at the ends of travel. I swapped
the AF and RF gain knobs to be sure, and it made no difference. Any other
ideas?
  


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[Elecraft] RE: KRX3 KDVR Installs

2008-07-05 Thread Dave Agsten

Since the installation of both of these options requires removing the front 
panel, wouldn't it have made more sense to release these two at the same time? 
It seems to me that you're just flirting with trouble when you keep opening the 
radio up time after time. I know some will say it's easy, no problem, blah, 
blah, blah. But, after working with radios, electronics and computers over the 
last 40 years, I know for a fact that even the best technicians and engineers 
screw up from time to time. So, anything can happen. Repeated opening up of the 
K3 surely increases the odds of something being screwed up. 

As for me, I'm debating about whether to cancel my KRX3 order and will not 
purchase the DVR since it's not going to be ready at the same time. Worst case 
is I'll only be opening up the radio one more timeat least to the extent 
that is required for these two options. If I need DVR capability and perhaps a 
second RX, I'll use my 5000A. 


73,
Dave N8AG


  
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[Elecraft] 2Khz Up Split Command