Re: [Elecraft] K3 and satellite comms
tom kenville wrote: I am wondering if the K3 might be suitable for satellite comms. Differing UP and DOWN link. Transverters. Computer control.. Any thoughts on this ? As far as 70cm is concerned you'd have the same issue discussed in an earlier thread about repeaters. The K3 can only tune 2MHz in an IF so you can only cover 432 to 434 MHz. If you were only interested in satellites you could presumably change the crystal in the transverter. You would also need full duplex operation. I don't know if the second receiver allows this. Perhaps someone who has one can confirm or deny this. - Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392 K3 #222. http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack http://www.g4ilo.com/blog.html G4ILO's Bloghttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-and-satellite-comms-tp2356253p2357858.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 and satellite comms
Tom, Satellite comms usually require full duplex operation, and the K3 does not do that, nor can the transmit frequency be changed while transmitting at this time. The year the K3 was first shown at Dayton, I overheard Wayne addressing duplex operation, and he stated that it would *might* be possible when using the transverter outputs, but definitely not from the high power output. The might be possible was qualified by Wayne stating that it would require a lot of testing for interactions. 73, Don W3FPR tom kenville wrote: I am wondering if the K3 might be suitable for satellite comms. Differing UP and DOWN link. Transverters. Computer control.. Any thoughts on this ? -- thanks and 73's Tom Kenville -- W6TJK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 and satellite comms
Satellite comms usually require full duplex operation, Full duplex is certainly preferred, though by no means required. and the K3 does not do that, Correct, although it *may* become possible through the transverter port in combination with the KRX3 second receiver. nor can the transmit frequency be changed while transmitting at this time. Actually, the K3 transmitter *can* be tuned while transmitting. This was a design requirement from very early in the product design. 73, Lyle KK7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 and satellite comms
Good information Lyle. Thanks for the updated information. 73, Don W3FPR Lyle Johnson wrote: Satellite comms usually require full duplex operation, Full duplex is certainly preferred, though by no means required. and the K3 does not do that, Correct, although it *may* become possible through the transverter port in combination with the KRX3 second receiver. nor can the transmit frequency be changed while transmitting at this time. Actually, the K3 transmitter *can* be tuned while transmitting. This was a design requirement from very early in the product design. 73, Lyle KK7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.1/1962 - Release Date: 02/20/09 07:26:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Off Topic question about shortwave broadcasting
I read something (but forget where I read it) about the shortwave broadcast stations supposed to vacate the 7.0 to 7.3 ham band.when it that supposed to happen? Thanks. Rich K2CPE K2 #1102 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
Good morning all, I apologize for the late reply. I was up late last night during my shift and the dog and I took a little siesta this morning when I got home ;-) Just to add a little more info. I looked up the internal Elecraft part #'s for the leds used in the W1 and the KAT100 and the red ones are specified as different internal part numbers. I sat my W1 next to the KAT100 this morning and indeed they physically look different also. I'm not exactly sure, but I think the Mouser part numbers posted may be the leds specified for use in the KAT100 and may be the reason they look dimmer. I don't want to duplicate any efforts here, so has anyone tracked down the manufacturers part number for the leds used in the W1 from Elecraft? If not, I can surely email Scott and see if he has one that we can cross reference with Digi-Key. Usually, if you have at least some type of manufacturer number, you can search for it on their web site. Or is that what you already did Doug? Thanks for the generous offers to both Doug and Ken for sending me some samples. Maybe we can track this down a little further before we get there though. Thank you all for your time, I didn't realize this was going to take up such bandwidth here. Hopefully we're getting closer. Take care 73, Dave W8FGU Doug Joyce wrote: Ken / Dave: Just to let you know, I did this with equivalent / the same parts (I'll provide the part numbers I used later this AM) and at 20 ma fwd current they do indeed seem to all have equivalent brightness. The problem I found is that when installed in the W1, they don't light up with the same intensity as the red ones supplied. I used other colours of green, yellow and amber / orange. I haven't spent a lot of time to investigate, but what I found so far is that the fwd voltage drop on the red LEDs is smaller than on the other colours, and in the W1 cct it is a smaller percentage of the supply voltage of 5 volts. This results in more fwd current that available for the red compared to the other colours, hence the red appears to be brighter. The next step I need to do is to actually measure the current provided by the W1 for these other colours. I got 10 of each when I ordered then from DigiKey - Dave, if you provide your mailing address, I'll send you a couple of each and you can try then in the W1 as well. 73 Doug, VE3MV - Original Message - *From:* Ken Kopp mailto:k...@rfwave.net *To:* w8...@comcast.net mailto:w8...@comcast.net ; Doug Joyce mailto:d_jo...@sympatico.ca ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2009 10:52 PM *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's from Scott at Aptos. He got them for me from the stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers. I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same brightness and take a photo. They -should- be the same product line and therefore light equally, I'd think. They're from the KAT-100 tuner. Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1 kits with three colors of LED's. 73! Ken I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter http://www.spamfighter.com/len. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 1012 of my spam emails to date. The Professional version does not have this message. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Off Topic question about shortwave broadcasting
sometime in March - not vacate I think, but we switch - Amateur Radio becomes primary user and Broadcast secondary. I think anyway. 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 -- When one door closes another door opens; but we so often look so long and so regretfully upon the closed door, that we do not see the ones which open for us. -Alexander Graham Bell, inventor (1847-1922) On 20 Feb 2009, at 16:11, Rich Ardolino wrote: I read something (but forget where I read it) about the shortwave broadcast stations supposed to vacate the 7.0 to 7.3 ham band.when it that supposed to happen? Thanks. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
I don't think anyone will mind the time spent on this. I looked in Mouser catalogue and was unable to find specs for higher output green, yellow and orange LED's. I did order the ones originally posted here and they are installed. So, please continue on your quest and let me know if I can help. I would love a replacement set match the output of the red ones. Personally, I think the W1 is cool! Now if I could just add another row and a remote pickup for my amp I would be sooo happy! Heck, this setup is easy to see, lightening fast reporting even if it is redundant to all the rest of the meters and readouts. Just plain cool IMNSHO (In My Not So Humble Opinion!) 73, Bill K9YEQ K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dave Van Wallaghen Good morning all, I apologize for the late reply. I was up late last night during my shift and the dog and I took a little siesta this morning when I got home ;-) Just to add a little more info. I looked up the internal Elecraft part #'s for the leds used in the W1 and the KAT100 and the red ones are specified as different internal part numbers. I sat my W1 next to the KAT100 this morning and indeed they physically look different also. I'm not exactly sure, but I think the Mouser part numbers posted may be the leds specified for use in the KAT100 and may be the reason they look dimmer. I don't want to duplicate any efforts here, so has anyone tracked down the manufacturers part number for the leds used in the W1 from Elecraft? If not, I can surely email Scott and see if he has one that we can cross reference with Digi-Key. Usually, if you have at least some type of manufacturer number, you can search for it on their web site. Or is that what you already did Doug? Thanks for the generous offers to both Doug and Ken for sending me some samples. Maybe we can track this down a little further before we get there though. Thank you all for your time, I didn't realize this was going to take up such bandwidth here. Hopefully we're getting closer. Take care 73, Dave W8FGU Doug Joyce wrote: Ken / Dave: Just to let you know, I did this with equivalent / the same parts (I'll provide the part numbers I used later this AM) and at 20 ma fwd current they do indeed seem to all have equivalent brightness. The problem I found is that when installed in the W1, they don't light up with the same intensity as the red ones supplied. I used other colours of green, yellow and amber / orange. I haven't spent a lot of time to investigate, but what I found so far is that the fwd voltage drop on the red LEDs is smaller than on the other colours, and in the W1 cct it is a smaller percentage of the supply voltage of 5 volts. This results in more fwd current that available for the red compared to the other colours, hence the red appears to be brighter. The next step I need to do is to actually measure the current provided by the W1 for these other colours. I got 10 of each when I ordered then from DigiKey - Dave, if you provide your mailing address, I'll send you a couple of each and you can try then in the W1 as well. 73 Doug, VE3MV - Original Message - *From:* Ken Kopp mailto:k...@rfwave.net *To:* w8...@comcast.net mailto:w8...@comcast.net ; Doug Joyce mailto:d_jo...@sympatico.ca ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2009 10:52 PM *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's from Scott at Aptos. He got them for me from the stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers. I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same brightness and take a photo. They -should- be the same product line and therefore light equally, I'd think. They're from the KAT-100 tuner. Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1 kits with three colors of LED's. 73! Ken I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter http://www.spamfighter.com/len. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 1012 of my spam emails to date. The Professional version does not have this message. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Re: [Elecraft] [K3]PSK31 DM780
Also, don't forget that Compression is a no-no on data modes. It can cause distortion as well. Jim K5HTK -Original Message- From: Dave Van Wallaghen [mailto:w8...@comcast.net] Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 1:35 PM To: Jim Brown; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3]PSK31 DM780 Thank you very much Jim for the nicely detailed explanation and process. I have K3 #338 but did apply all of the applicable hardware mods to date. So hopefully the distortion is not hardware related but operator error in driving my soundcard too hard. I will follow the process you outlined here first thing in the morning and hopefully eliminate the harmonics. And then back to happy PSK31 :-) Thanks again 73, Dave W8FGU --Original Message-- From: Jim Brown To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net To: w8...@comcast.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3]PSK31 DM780 Sent: Feb 19, 2009 1:38 PM On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 17:59:38 +, Dave Van Wallaghen wrote: Has anyone else using DM780 with a K3 noticed that very strong psk sigs produce other images on the waterfall? It is about 2k further up or down from the original signal and can be decoded on the screen although weaker. I'm also running LP-Pan but don't notice the images on the panadapter. That's harmonic or intermod distortion. Something in your audio chain is being overdriven. Could be the sound card. Or if it's an older K3, it could be the radio. Older versions of the K3 produce a LOT of audio distortion at the Line Out for settings of Line Out gain greater than about 10. Distortion starts showing up weakly with a setting around 5, and is bonkers up around 50. I've heard that's been fixed in recent production, but don't know what serial number. I think it's also fixed with the audio mod that you can buy. To fix your situation, first turn the Line Out gain at 3. Now, turn the sound card input gain down until you no longer see signals, then bring it back up until they all start decoding well. This same distortion vs level thing occurs on transmit, so be VERY careful not to overdrive the sound card or the radio. If you overdrive anything, you'll produce multiple copies of your own signal. One good way to set levels on your sound card is to listen to the sound card with headphones while you tell it to transmit. You should hear some extra sharpness or raspiness when the sound card level is too high. Listen carefully to it and pull the sound card playback level down until the raspiness goes away. That should be a good setting. You can also look at it on a scope and adjust the level so that there's no squaring or rounding of the top of the sine wave. Or you can crank the gain up until the waveform clips, then back it down until the waveform is half that height. All of these methods should get you to clean audio out of the sound card. Once you have that level right, hook it up to the K3, pull the Line In gain down, then bring it back up slowly as you watch the RF level. When the level stops increasing, you've gone too high. Back it off a bit. That should get you close. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Off Topic question about shortwave broadcasting
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 16:18:07 +, you wrote: sometime in March - not vacate I think, but we switch - Amateur Radio becomes primary user and Broadcast secondary. Which means the broadcasters won't honor the change... ;o) Actually I hope I'm absolutely wrong! I think anyway. 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 73, Tom, N5GE K3 806 XV144 XV432 http://www.n5ge.com http://www.swotrc.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Off Topic question about shortwave broadcasting
In ITU regions 1 and 3 the SW stations should vacate 7.1 to 7.2 MHz effective 29 March 2009. The broadcasters gain 50 kHz - 7.35 to 7.40 MHz worldwide and 7.40 to 7.45 in Regions 1 and 3. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I read something (but forget where I read it) about the shortwave broadcast stations supposed to vacate the 7.0 to 7.3 ham band.when it that supposed to happen? Thanks. Rich K2CPE K2 #1102 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 03:52:17 -, you wrote: I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's from Scott at Aptos. He got them for me from the stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers. I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same brightness and take a photo. They -should- be the same product line and therefore light equally, I'd think. They're from the KAT-100 tuner. Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1 kits with three colors of LED's. 73! Ken Good information, Ken. Last night just before crawling into the sack I realized another source of the Elecraft PN's might be the LED's used in the power out displays of the XVTR's. You can probably get them by downloading one of the XV*** manuals. 73, Tom, N5GE K3 806 XV144 XV432 http://www.n5ge.com http://www.swotrc.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
I am not sure if they match the output of the W1's red leds. IF they do perfect. Can anyone test? Bill -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom, N5GE Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 10:47 AM To: Ken Kopp Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 03:52:17 -, you wrote: I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's from Scott at Aptos. He got them for me from the stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers. I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same brightness and take a photo. They -should- be the same product line and therefore light equally, I'd think. They're from the KAT-100 tuner. Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1 kits with three colors of LED's. 73! Ken Good information, Ken. Last night just before crawling into the sack I realized another source of the Elecraft PN's might be the LED's used in the power out displays of the XVTR's. You can probably get them by downloading one of the XV*** manuals. 73, Tom, N5GE K3 806 XV144 XV432 http://www.n5ge.com http://www.swotrc.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Fwd: Off Topic question about shortwave broadcasting
--- the forwarded message follows --- ---BeginMessage--- On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 16:18:07 + David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk wrote: sometime in March - not vacate I think, but we switch - Amateur Radio becomes primary user and Broadcast secondary. I think anyway. 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 -- When one door closes another door opens; but we so often look so long and so regretfully upon the closed door, that we do not see the ones which open for us. -Alexander Graham Bell, inventor (1847-1922) On 20 Feb 2009, at 16:11, Rich Ardolino wrote: I read something (but forget where I read it) about the shortwave broadcast stations supposed to vacate the 7.0 to 7.3 ham band.when it that supposed to happen? Thanks. __ Apparently the scheme/transition is to take place next month, and the plan entails the Region 1 3 broadcasters are supposed to vacate from 7.100mhz to 7.200mhz., probably spurring the Euro/Asia radio agencies to give their hams phone privileges in or near USA phone freqs. so that we won't have to work (split-7.090 to 7.050mhz. original Regions 1 3 sub-band) anymore!!! That's the plan and HOPE anyway! Jim/nn6ee S/N 2406 ---End Message--- __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
I just looked them up and they are the same Elecraft part numbers as listed for the KAT100. Just for clarity. The part numbers for the red LED's are: KAT100, XVTR, XG2 etc - E570007 W1 - E570026 73, Dave W8FGU Tom, N5GE wrote: On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 03:52:17 -, you wrote: I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's from Scott at Aptos. He got them for me from the stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers. I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same brightness and take a photo. They -should- be the same product line and therefore light equally, I'd think. They're from the KAT-100 tuner. Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1 kits with three colors of LED's. 73! Ken Good information, Ken. Last night just before crawling into the sack I realized another source of the Elecraft PN's might be the LED's used in the power out displays of the XVTR's. You can probably get them by downloading one of the XV*** manuals. 73, Tom, N5GE K3 806 XV144 XV432 http://www.n5ge.com http://www.swotrc.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] ATU question
This has probably been brought up. The ATU seems to stay on regardless of band. I would prefer the antenna tuner be band dependent if it not. A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may never get over. Ben Franklin __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Off Topic question about shortwave broadcasting
Info about this: http://www.itu.int/itunews/issue/2003/06/solutions.html 7000-7200 kHz will be exclusive amateur radio and will take place 29 Mar 2009. / Jim SM2EKM --- Tom, N5GE wrote: On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 16:18:07 +, you wrote: sometime in March - not vacate I think, but we switch - Amateur Radio becomes primary user and Broadcast secondary. Which means the broadcasters won't honor the change... ;o) Actually I hope I'm absolutely wrong! I think anyway. 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 73, Tom, N5GE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 12:01:32 -0500, you wrote: I just looked them up and they are the same Elecraft part numbers as listed for the KAT100. Just for clarity. The part numbers for the red LED's are: KAT100, XVTR, XG2 etc - E570007 W1 - E570026 73, Dave W8FGU [snip] Hmm... Well, if the red LED's are the only problem, then why not just replace them too? 73, Tom, N5GE K3 806 XV144 XV432 http://www.n5ge.com http://www.swotrc.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1
Dave / Ken: Further to the attached: Gary provided the info on the Red LED as the Digi-key part# is 516-1281-ND the Mfg is Avago Tech part # HLMP-S100. This part is listed in the Digi-Key T091 (Jan - Apr 2009) catalogue, page 2615. The same section also lists two green LEDs, the brighter is Digi-Key part # 516-1285-ND (Avago part # HLMP-S501). Interestingly enough the T081 catalogue (page 2455) also listed a yellow from the same series as Digi-Key part # 516-1284-ND (Avago part # HLMP-S301), but when I tried to get a quote, the minimum order qty was over 5000 units. Orange is also made by Avago as part # HLMP-S401 (same Digi-Key part No.) with a minimum order qty of 3,000 units. So green seems to be the only other LED from the same Avago family available in reasonable quantities. (The Mouser part numbers for the Avago Tech LEDs are 630-HLMP-Sxxx etc) For the red LED Luminous intensity is given as 7.5 mcd @ 20 ma with a fwd voltage drop of 1.8 volts; however for the green (S501) the specs are 8 mcd @ 20 ma with a fwd voltage drop of 2.2 volts. I suspect that this 0.4 volt difference may be the cause of the difference in intensity when installed in the W1. As for yellow and orange / amber LEDs from an alternate supplier, the same T091 catalogue, page 2557 shows LEDs from Lumex. Yellow is Digi-Key part # 67-1050-ND (Lumex part # SSL-LX2573-YD). Fwd voltage drop of 2.1V luminosity of 10 mcd; and Amber is Digi-Key part # 67-1045-ND (Lumex part # SSL-LX-2573-AD). Fwd voltage drop of 2.0 luminosity of 5 mcd (The Mouser part numbers for the Lumex LEDs are 696-SSL-LX2573xxx etc). I ordered a qty of 526-1285-ND (HLMP-S501) , green from Avago and 67-1050-ND (SSL-LX2573-YD), yellow from Lumex and 67-1045-ND (SSL-LX2573-AD), amber from Lumex Connected to a 12V supply with a resistor to limit the current to 20 ma, the intensity seems to be similar in all LEDs (including the original red one). When installed in the W1 however, it's a different story. (See my comment in the email below.) All of the other colours are significantly less bright than the original red ones. Perhaps someone who has worked with the PIC microcontroller might be able to suggest a solution. 73 Doug, VE3MV - Original Message - From: Doug Joyce To: Dave Van Wallaghen Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 9:11 AM Subject: Leds for W1 Dave: I'm not sure the email I cc'd you on earlier got sent, so here is a resend. Ken / Dave: Just to let you know, I did this with equivalent / the same parts (I'll provide the part numbers I used later this AM) and at 20 ma fwd current they do indeed seem to all have equivalent brightness. The problem I found is that when installed in the W1, they don't light up with the same intensity as the red ones supplied. I used other colours of green, yellow and amber / orange. I haven't spent a lot of time to investigate, but what I found so far is that the fwd voltage drop on the red LEDs is smaller than on the other colours, and in the W1 cct it is a smaller percentage of the supply voltage of 5 volts. This results in more fwd current that available for the red compared to the other colours, hence the red appears to be brighter. The next step I need to do is to actually measure the current provided by the W1 for these other colours. I got 10 of each when I ordered then from DigiKey - Dave, if you provide your mailing address, I'll send you a couple of each and you can try then in the W1 as well. 73 Doug, VE3MV - Original Message - From: Ken Kopp To: w8...@comcast.net ; Doug Joyce ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 10:52 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's from Scott at Aptos. He got them for me from the stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers. I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same brightness and take a photo. They -should- be the same product line and therefore light equally, I'd think. They're from the KAT-100 tuner. Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1 kits with three colors of LED's. 73! Ken __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
Well, that is certainly a good idea and a good option. (Not to mention consistent with the scales on other Elecraft equipment). If we can't find the W1 led versions, that may well be the best option. 73, Dave W8FGU --Original Message-- From: Tom, N5GE To: Dave Van Wallaghen Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers Sent: Feb 20, 2009 12:47 PM On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 12:01:32 -0500, you wrote: I just looked them up and they are the same Elecraft part numbers as listed for the KAT100. Just for clarity. The part numbers for the red LED's are: KAT100, XVTR, XG2 etc - E570007 W1 - E570026 73, Dave W8FGU [snip] Hmm... Well, if the red LED's are the only problem, then why not just replace them too? 73, Tom, N5GE K3 806 XV144 XV432 http://www.n5ge.com http://www.swotrc.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] ATU question
W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote: The ATU seems to stay on regardless of band. I would prefer the antenna tuner be band dependent if it not. Yes, this has been brought up before. I'm not sure what behaviour would suit everyone though. Personally I would prefer it to be antenna socket dependent, because I have an antenna that requires an external tuner on ANT 2. It doesn't bother me to have it in circuit on ANT 1 even if it isn't really needed on some of the bands that antenna covers. - Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392 K3 #222. http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack http://www.g4ilo.com/blog.html G4ILO's Bloghttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/ATU-question-tp2360046p2360478.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1
Hey Doug, Looks like you are neck deep in this ;-) Looking at the datasheet for the PIC16F876a, it states each I/O line can sink 25ma. Looking at the schematic for the W1, I see 2k resistors in series with each I/O line and the LED which is then banked through a 2n7000. If (and a big if) I did some math right, that would put a max of 2.5ma available to each line. As this is a battery operated unit, keeping the current draw down would be a good design consideration. And at a low current like 2.5ma, that small difference in forward voltage would probably be the difference you'd see visually. Not to mention that the I/O lines driving the LED banks may very well pulsed with some type of duty cycle out of visual range (just guessing here). I don't know if in the end, I would be bothered too much by the visual difference of the red leds in that I guess I would want the red ones to grab my attention. On the other hand, Tom, N5GE's suggestion to replace the red ones also (at least on the SWR bank) so they are consistent might be a good compromise. I have the same Digi-Key catalog and see what you are talking about. I will go back to the Mouser #'s Bill posted here and cross reference them with Digi-Key and see if the operating stats are more consistent. Thanks for the hard work, Dave W8FGU Doug Joyce wrote: Dave / Ken: Further to the attached: Gary provided the info on the Red LED as the Digi-key part# is 516-1281-ND the Mfg is Avago Tech part # HLMP-S100. This part is listed in the Digi-Key T091 (Jan - Apr 2009) catalogue, page 2615. The same section also lists two green LEDs, the brighter is Digi-Key part # 516-1285-ND (Avago part # HLMP-S501). Interestingly enough the T081 catalogue (page 2455) also listed a yellow from the same series as Digi-Key part # 516-1284-ND (Avago part # HLMP-S301), but when I tried to get a quote, the minimum order qty was over 5000 units. Orange is also made by Avago as part # HLMP-S401 (same Digi-Key part No.) with a minimum order qty of 3,000 units. So green seems to be the only other LED from the same Avago family available in reasonable quantities. (The Mouser part numbers for the Avago Tech LEDs are 630-HLMP-Sxxx etc) For the red LED Luminous intensity is given as 7.5 mcd @ 20 ma with a fwd voltage drop of 1.8 volts; however for the green (S501) the specs are 8 mcd @ 20 ma with a fwd voltage drop of 2.2 volts. I suspect that this 0.4 volt difference may be the cause of the difference in intensity when installed in the W1. As for yellow and orange / amber LEDs from an alternate supplier, the same T091 catalogue, page 2557 shows LEDs from Lumex. Yellow is Digi-Key part # 67-1050-ND (Lumex part # SSL-LX2573-YD). Fwd voltage drop of 2.1V luminosity of 10 mcd; and Amber is Digi-Key part # 67-1045-ND (Lumex part # SSL-LX-2573-AD). Fwd voltage drop of 2.0 luminosity of 5 mcd (The Mouser part numbers for the Lumex LEDs are 696-SSL-LX2573xxx etc). I ordered a qty of 526-1285-ND (HLMP-S501) , green from Avago and 67-1050-ND (SSL-LX2573-YD), yellow from Lumex and 67-1045-ND (SSL-LX2573-AD), amber from Lumex Connected to a 12V supply with a resistor to limit the current to 20 ma, the intensity seems to be similar in all LEDs (including the original red one). When installed in the W1 however, it's a different story. (See my comment in the email below.) All of the other colours are significantly less bright than the original red ones. Perhaps someone who has worked with the PIC microcontroller might be able to suggest a solution. 73 Doug, VE3MV - Original Message - *From:* Doug Joyce mailto:d_jo...@sympatico.ca *To:* Dave Van Wallaghen mailto:w8...@comcast.net *Sent:* Friday, February 20, 2009 9:11 AM *Subject:* Leds for W1 Dave: I'm not sure the email I cc'd you on earlier got sent, so here is a resend. Ken / Dave: Just to let you know, I did this with equivalent / the same parts (I'll provide the part numbers I used later this AM) and at 20 ma fwd current they do indeed seem to all have equivalent brightness. The problem I found is that when installed in the W1, they don't light up with the same intensity as the red ones supplied. I used other colours of green, yellow and amber / orange. I haven't spent a lot of time to investigate, but what I found so far is that the fwd voltage drop on the red LEDs is smaller than on the other colours, and in the W1 cct it is a smaller percentage of the supply voltage of 5 volts. This results in more fwd current that available for the red compared to the other colours, hence the red appears to be brighter. The next step I need to do is to actually measure the current provided by the W1 for these other colours. I got 10 of each when I ordered then from DigiKey - Dave, if
Re: [Elecraft] [K3]PSK31 DM780
Jim Brow wrote: That's harmonic or intermod distortion. Something in your audio chain is being overdriven. Could be the sound card. Or if it's an older K3, it could be the radio. Older versions of the K3 produce a LOT of audio distortion at the Line Out for settings of Line Out gain greater than about 10. Distortion starts showing up weakly with a setting around 5, and is bonkers up around 50. Jim, your K3 and mine seem a bit different. Before I put the audio modification in my K3 [ser 508] I would see obvious IMD on the DM780 waterfall or Spectrumlab with Line Out set anywhere above 3, 10 was problematic. Even at 3 I could see harmonics of S9 tones. After the modification I run Line Out about 10 and see I see slight IMD above band noise 60-70dB below the carrier tone, passable. I have played with sound card gain to try and make sure that the sound card is not being over driven but I have to admit that I don't really know how to distribute the gain between the sound card and the K3 Line Out. DM780 has a soundcard Receive Signal Level; I run it in the lower 25% of the scale and seem to see nice traces. Mike Scott - AE6WA Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA) K3-100 #508/ KX1 #1311 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3]PSK31 DM780
Dave Wrote...but did apply all of the applicable hardware mods to date. So hopefully the distortion is not hardware related but operator error in driving my soundcard too hard. Dave, When I have my K3 Line Out plugged into my sound card rear microphone input I see IMD products that I don't see when I plug into the Line In on the PC soundcard. It is difficult for me to know which one I am plugged into because I do not understand the color code on the PC sound input output panel. The only way I make sure I am plugged into Line In is to bring up the Windows microphone panel and mute all inputs but Line In and make sure that I am getting a waterfall trace with only Line In selected. If no noise on the waterfall I plug into another socket until I finally arrive at Line In. I found this made quite a difference on my set up when I finally plugged into the correct place. Mike Scott Tarzana, CA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] W1 LED's
I must confess that when I replied to Dave about changing the W1 LED's I inadvertently sent my message to the list. I didn't intend to do so, but it looks like there's a LOT of interest in changing the LED colors used in the W1's SWR display. I had ordered a W1 and asked Scott to add the yellow and green LED's to my order, which he did. I was on the phone with him while he was looking into the stock bins and he has my thanks for the trouble he took. Another example of the attitude of the Aptos folks. As Scott pointed out, there would be a good bit of behind-the scenes work to make the SWR display in all production kits a three-color display. Lots of documentation to change and verify, etc. I'm sure the designer of the W1 could answer the questions about the brightness of the three colors. Perhaps, if/when there's time someone at Aptos can tell us if such a change might be in the future. Maybe a Mod kit would meet the needs of those of us who want to make the change, even if -all- the SWR LED's need to be changed to achieve equal brightness in the row.I expect the Aptos stockroom has all colors needed, but perhaps it's unrealistic to make up change kits and bill them out. In reality, probably not worth the effort. On the other hand, for those of us in the outback, the only alternative is a supply house with a likely minimum order fee that's far beyond the LED cost. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@rfwave.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1
I have some experience driving LEDs from a PIC (both in my book Programming the PIC Microcontroller with MBasic) as well as the Z100 CW tuning aid kit that I developed. (Still available, should anyone be interested, as well as the book is still in print.) The Z100 uses red, yellow and green rectangular LEDs, driven from a PIC with a small series resistor. http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z100_tuning_aid.htm for more details. For all practical purposes, a PIC won't source more than about 20 mA even into a short circuit. Looking at the W1's schematic (I don't own one) it seems that the maximum current available to drive an LED is around 1.5 mA (5V from the PIC, less 2V drop for the LED average, with 2K ohm series from the PIC output. The 2N7000's on resistance can be ignored in this calculation.) That's quite low current, and it should be possible to boost it--and the LED's brightness--considerably by reducing the 2K series resistors. My experience is that although perhaps not designed that way, PICs are pretty abuse tolerant in the output mode. My Z100 drives the LEDs through 43 ohm resistors and the LEDs are quite bright. The Z100's typical LED driving current is around 10 mA if I remember the measurements correctly. A couple of caveats - the Z100 does not run with all the LEDs illuminated under normal conditions. With noise, perhaps three or four are at at maximum, and with a signal input, one or two. Hence the Z100's+5V regulator is not designed to provide oodles of current. Second, there is a dissipation limit on how much total current a PIC can source from all pins. If the W1 operates in a mode where most LEDs are on for extended periods, I would evaluate the 5V regulator's thermal performance and also the PIC's maximum power dissipation before getting carried away with reducing the series driver resistors. As usual, should anyone destroy their W1 through making these changes, you are on your own. Jack K8ZOA www.cliftonlaboratories.com Doug Joyce wrote: Dave / Ken: Further to the attached: Gary provided the info on the Red LED as the Digi-key part# is 516-1281-ND the Mfg is Avago Tech part # HLMP-S100. This part is listed in the Digi-Key T091 (Jan - Apr 2009) catalogue, page 2615. The same section also lists two green LEDs, the brighter is Digi-Key part # 516-1285-ND (Avago part # HLMP-S501). Interestingly enough the T081 catalogue (page 2455) also listed a yellow from the same series as Digi-Key part # 516-1284-ND (Avago part # HLMP-S301), but when I tried to get a quote, the minimum order qty was over 5000 units. Orange is also made by Avago as part # HLMP-S401 (same Digi-Key part No.) with a minimum order qty of 3,000 units. So green seems to be the only other LED from the same Avago family available in reasonable quantities. (The Mouser part numbers for the Avago Tech LEDs are 630-HLMP-Sxxx etc) For the red LED Luminous intensity is given as 7.5 mcd @ 20 ma with a fwd voltage drop of 1.8 volts; however for the green (S501) the specs are 8 mcd @ 20 ma with a fwd voltage drop of 2.2 volts. I suspect that this 0.4 volt difference may be the cause of the difference in intensity when installed in the W1. As for yellow and orange / amber LEDs from an alternate supplier, the same T091 catalogue, page 2557 shows LEDs from Lumex. Yellow is Digi-Key part # 67-1050-ND (Lumex part # SSL-LX2573-YD). Fwd voltage drop of 2.1V luminosity of 10 mcd; and Amber is Digi-Key part # 67-1045-ND (Lumex part # SSL-LX-2573-AD). Fwd voltage drop of 2.0 luminosity of 5 mcd (The Mouser part numbers for the Lumex LEDs are 696-SSL-LX2573xxx etc). I ordered a qty of 526-1285-ND (HLMP-S501) , green from Avago and 67-1050-ND (SSL-LX2573-YD), yellow from Lumex and 67-1045-ND (SSL-LX2573-AD), amber from Lumex Connected to a 12V supply with a resistor to limit the current to 20 ma, the intensity seems to be similar in all LEDs (including the original red one). When installed in the W1 however, it's a different story. (See my comment in the email below.) All of the other colours are significantly less bright than the original red ones. Perhaps someone who has worked with the PIC microcontroller might be able to suggest a solution. 73 Doug, VE3MV - Original Message - *From:* Doug Joyce mailto:d_jo...@sympatico.ca *To:* Dave Van Wallaghen mailto:w8...@comcast.net *Sent:* Friday, February 20, 2009 9:11 AM *Subject:* Leds for W1 Dave: I'm not sure the email I cc'd you on earlier got sent, so here is a resend. Ken / Dave: Just to let you know, I did this with equivalent / the same parts (I'll provide the part numbers I used later this AM) and at 20 ma fwd current they do indeed seem to all have equivalent brightness. The problem I found is that when installed in the W1, they don't light up with the same
[Elecraft] Logic 8 K3
I am using the Kenwood 850 @ 4800 baud, 1 stop bit and Icom address 1E When I click on a spot in the spot log, it takes me to the frequency posted on the cluster and it also logs the contact. If I do not make the contact I need to erase the qso. Double clicking on a new station/frequ8ency it logs the new one in sequence rather than writing over it. It does require each attempt to be erased or it will mean entering qsos in the log that never happened. (often there is nothing to hear and yet Logic has this listed as a completed QSO. Another thing is if I click on a DX spot, the K3 is switched to the REV condition if it is a CW contact. Every time I use the double click on spot log, I always need to press the ALT key to restore the CW to normal. With the above, does anyone know how to allow me to double click on spot log without it going to rev in CW and... How to not have to always erase the contact when going from the spot log to the frequency? Thanks, Gary KA1J __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1
Thanks for the input Jack. I've done some PIC programming in the past and know that you have to try real hard to let the smoke out of them ;-) Like I stated earlier, my guess is that the W1 was designed for low current consumption being battery operated and used for portable ops. So I'm sure your calculations are right on. I had to order some other parts from Digi-Key anyway so I went ahead and ordered the Lumex line of red, yellow and green leds that Doug spoke about. They are all very close in forward voltage and are all rated at 10mcd output. I also ordered the amber, although it is only rated at 5mcd and their super red which is rated at 80mcd. I will try these out on my W1 to see the differences. Besides, I just bought a new Hakko 808 I've been wanting to try out. My guess is at worst, the power scale leds may be brighter than the SWR scale, but I can at least get the SWR uniform in brightness. Other than that, it might take replacing the power scale leds as well for those who want it totally uniform. Or like Jack alluded to, replacing the series resistors which doesn't sound like much fun to me (and possibly increasing current consumption). I will make current measurements before I replace anything and record the changes in current while experimenting. I will post my results back to the list. If there is enough interest (and it seems like there is) I would not mind ordering these in quantity and a splitting them up into small kits as long as Eric or Wayne do not mind me doing so. Thanks for everyones input and research and bandwidth on the reflector. 73, Dave W8FGU Jack Smith wrote: I have some experience driving LEDs from a PIC (both in my book Programming the PIC Microcontroller with MBasic) as well as the Z100 CW tuning aid kit that I developed. (Still available, should anyone be interested, as well as the book is still in print.) The Z100 uses red, yellow and green rectangular LEDs, driven from a PIC with a small series resistor. http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z100_tuning_aid.htm for more details. For all practical purposes, a PIC won't source more than about 20 mA even into a short circuit. Looking at the W1's schematic (I don't own one) it seems that the maximum current available to drive an LED is around 1.5 mA (5V from the PIC, less 2V drop for the LED average, with 2K ohm series from the PIC output. The 2N7000's on resistance can be ignored in this calculation.) That's quite low current, and it should be possible to boost it--and the LED's brightness--considerably by reducing the 2K series resistors. My experience is that although perhaps not designed that way, PICs are pretty abuse tolerant in the output mode. My Z100 drives the LEDs through 43 ohm resistors and the LEDs are quite bright. The Z100's typical LED driving current is around 10 mA if I remember the measurements correctly. A couple of caveats - the Z100 does not run with all the LEDs illuminated under normal conditions. With noise, perhaps three or four are at at maximum, and with a signal input, one or two. Hence the Z100's+5V regulator is not designed to provide oodles of current. Second, there is a dissipation limit on how much total current a PIC can source from all pins. If the W1 operates in a mode where most LEDs are on for extended periods, I would evaluate the 5V regulator's thermal performance and also the PIC's maximum power dissipation before getting carried away with reducing the series driver resistors. As usual, should anyone destroy their W1 through making these changes, you are on your own. Jack K8ZOA www.cliftonlaboratories.com Doug Joyce wrote: Dave / Ken: Further to the attached: Gary provided the info on the Red LED as the Digi-key part# is 516-1281-ND the Mfg is Avago Tech part # HLMP-S100. This part is listed in the Digi-Key T091 (Jan - Apr 2009) catalogue, page 2615. The same section also lists two green LEDs, the brighter is Digi-Key part # 516-1285-ND (Avago part # HLMP-S501). Interestingly enough the T081 catalogue (page 2455) also listed a yellow from the same series as Digi-Key part # 516-1284-ND (Avago part # HLMP-S301), but when I tried to get a quote, the minimum order qty was over 5000 units. Orange is also made by Avago as part # HLMP-S401 (same Digi-Key part No.) with a minimum order qty of 3,000 units. So green seems to be the only other LED from the same Avago family available in reasonable quantities. (The Mouser part numbers for the Avago Tech LEDs are 630-HLMP-Sxxx etc) For the red LED Luminous intensity is given as 7.5 mcd @ 20 ma with a fwd voltage drop of 1.8 volts; however for the green (S501) the specs are 8 mcd @ 20 ma with a fwd voltage drop of 2.2 volts. I suspect that this 0.4 volt difference may be the cause of the difference in intensity when installed in the W1. As for yellow and orange / amber LEDs from an
[Elecraft] CW Monitor
Hello all, I'm loosing from time to time the CW monitor tone. Trying to change the monitor level doesn't changes anything. I have to open the cover and wait some time and then the monitor tone comes back... Any suggestions? 73 Ulf, DL5AXX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3]PSK31 DM780
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:49:40 -0800, Mike Scott wrote: Jim, your K3 and mine seem a bit different. Before I put the audio modification in my K3 [ser 508] I would see obvious IMD on the DM780 waterfall or Spectrumlab with Line Out set anywhere above 3, 10 was problematic. Even at 3 I could see harmonics of S9 tones. I doubt that our radios were different, only a question of degree. The harmonics at an output setting of 3 were in the noise level of my measurement. For Line Out, the level of distortion at 3 (or even 5) is VERY unlikely to be a problem. After the modification I run Line Out about 10 and see I see slight IMD above band noise 60-70dB below the carrier tone, passable. Remember, there's a transformer in line. 60-70 dB is WAY down, and quite respectable IMD performance! Of course, I'd still like the transformers to go away. There's no good reason for having them, they add to cost, and they subtract from performance! I have played with sound card gain to try and make sure that the sound card is not being over driven but I have to admit that I don't really know how to distribute the gain between the sound card and the K3 Line Out. DM780 has a soundcard Receive Signal Level; I run it in the lower 25% of the scale and seem to see nice traces. Some sound cards are better than others. Based on having used them with some high power audio testing software, I can say that the one in my IBM T41 is better than the one in my T22. I suggest that you run the K3 as cool as you can (that is, a low value of Line Out gain) and adjust the input of the sound card to get good decoding. 73, Jim Brown K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3: cw xmiting 2 signals 600hz apart: HELP
Hi everybody... I local K3 owner received this memo and forwarded it to me this morning for my opinion: When you were working HA5JI, you had a side band about s6 up about 600 Hz. I did not check the down side. Your main signal was s9+20. I was at work so I said I would listen when I got home (we live about 3 miles apart). On 160m (where he got the notice), his signal sounded fine barefoot, but with the amp on, I could hear it also. So I asked him to qsy to 40m where he is about 25db over 9 on my K3. And as I tuned off of him, I could hear the second signal as described above. The 2nd signal tunes in the same direction as the real signal (it is not blow by). Any comments or even better, any suggestions for him? Thanks, Doug KR2Q __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Fwd:RE:RE:RE:RE Off Topic question about shortwave broadcasting
Did not anybody get MY EXPLANATION about 40m SW broadcasters earlier??? OH WELL! Sometimes offering information out here is a WASTE OF TIME!!! Jim/nn6ee ---BeginMessage--- On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 16:18:07 +, you wrote: sometime in March - not vacate I think, but we switch - Amateur Radio becomes primary user and Broadcast secondary. Which means the broadcasters won't honor the change... ;o) Actually I hope I'm absolutely wrong! I think anyway. 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 73, Tom, N5GE K3 806 XV144 XV432 http://www.n5ge.com http://www.swotrc.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ---End Message--- __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 Birdies
I recently installed the KRX3 and seem to have some of the birdie problems others have noted, the loudest on 14.186.7 (S3). The others are masked when connected to an antenna and are not a problem. I have tried adjusting the cables and saw some improvement but it will not be a solution as Wayne noted. Has anyone tried the test firmware that Wayne mentioned a week or so ago? Thanks all, Bob W6VY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies
Bob, I've had very positive feedback from a dozen or so K3 customers who have used the new birdie removal feature successfully. This will be included in the next beta release. But don't take my word for it :) I'm sure others will weigh in. 73, Wayne N6KR On Feb 20, 2009, at 3:31 PM, Robert Dorchuck wrote: I recently installed the KRX3 and seem to have some of the birdie problems others have noted, the loudest on 14.186.7 (S3). The others are masked when connected to an antenna and are not a problem. I have tried adjusting the cables and saw some improvement but it will not be a solution as Wayne noted. Has anyone tried the test firmware that Wayne mentioned a week or so ago? --- http://www.elecraft.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies
It works. Good addition. 73 de KE4WY Jim _ From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Dorchuck Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 6:32 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies I recently installed the KRX3 and seem to have some of the birdie problems others have noted, the loudest on 14.186.7 (S3). The others are masked when connected to an antenna and are not a problem. I have tried adjusting the cables and saw some improvement but it will not be a solution as Wayne noted. Has anyone tried the test firmware that Wayne mentioned a week or so ago? Thanks all, Bob W6VY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1
Thanks for the excellent discussion and possible solutions. Please include me in the effort to experiment. My Hakko 808 hasn't been used for a month so I wouldn't mind helping out. I will gladly put in some $'s to purchase parts/share in cost to get at a solution. Suggestion: if the green and yellow output is sufficient and the amber is the only low output, perhaps it might best to revert back to either yellow or red... the user could decide. Let me know what I can do. I would also be ok with replacing the drive resistors to boost the LED output for SWR readings: perhaps reducing the Power LED output slightly might be a power consideration for battery conservation. 73, Bill K9YEQ K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods -Original Message- ... my guess is that the W1 was designed for low current consumption being battery operated and used for portable ops. So I'm sure your calculations are right on. ... ordered the Lumex line of red, yellow and green leds that Doug spoke about. They are all very close in forward voltage and are all rated at 10mcd output. I also ordered the amber, although it is only rated at 5mcd and their super red which is rated at 80mcd. I will try these out on my W1 to see the differences. Besides, I just bought a new Hakko 808 I've been wanting to try out. My guess is at worst, the power scale leds may be brighter than the SWR scale, but I can at least get the SWR uniform in brightness. Other than that, it might take replacing the power scale leds as well for those who want it totally uniform. Or like Jack alluded to, replacing the series resistors which doesn't sound like much fun to me (and possibly increasing current consumption). I will make current measurements before I replace anything and record the changes in current while experimenting. I will post my results back to the list. If there is enough interest (and it seems like there is) I would not mind ordering these in quantity and a splitting them up 73, Dave W8FGU Jack Smith wrote: I have some experience driving LEDs from a PIC (both in my book Programming the PIC Microcontroller with MBasic) as well as the Z100 CW tuning aid kit that I developed. (Still available, should anyone be interested, as well as the book is still in print.) The Z100 uses red, yellow and green rectangular LEDs, driven from a PIC with a small series resistor. http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z100_tuning_aid.htm for more details. For all practical purposes, a PIC won't source more than about 20 mA even into a short circuit. Looking at the W1's schematic (I don't own one) it seems that the maximum current available to drive an LED is around 1.5 mA (5V from the PIC, less 2V drop for the LED average, with 2K ohm series from the PIC output. The 2N7000's on resistance can be ignored in this calculation.) That's quite low current, and it should be possible to boost it--and the LED's brightness--considerably by reducing the 2K series resistors. My experience is that although perhaps not designed that way, PICs are pretty abuse tolerant in the output mode. My Z100 drives the LEDs through 43 ohm resistors and the LEDs are quite bright. The Z100's typical LED driving current is around 10 mA if I remember the measurements correctly. A couple of caveats - the Z100 does not run with all the LEDs illuminated under normal conditions. With noise, perhaps three or four are at at maximum, and with a signal input, one or two. Hence the Z100's+5V regulator is not designed to provide oodles of current. Second, there is a dissipation limit on how much total current a PIC can source from all pins. If the W1 operates in a mode where most LEDs are on for extended periods, I would evaluate the 5V regulator's thermal performance and also the PIC's maximum power dissipation before getting carried away with reducing the series driver resistors. As usual, should anyone destroy their W1 through making these changes, you are on your own. Jack K8ZOA www.cliftonlaboratories.com Doug Joyce wrote: Dave / Ken: Further to the attached: Gary provided the info on the Red LED as the Digi-key part# is 516-1281-ND the Mfg is Avago Tech part # HLMP-S100. This part is listed in the Digi-Key T091 (Jan - Apr 2009) catalogue, page 2615. The same section also lists two green LEDs, the brighter is Digi-Key part # 516-1285-ND (Avago part # HLMP-S501). Interestingly enough the T081 catalogue (page 2455) also listed a yellow from the same series as Digi-Key part # 516-1284-ND (Avago part # HLMP-S301), but when I tried to get a quote, the minimum order qty was over 5000 units. Orange is also made by Avago as part # HLMP-S401 (same Digi-Key part No.) with a minimum order qty of 3,000 units. So green seems to be the only other LED from the same Avago family available in reasonable quantities. (The Mouser part numbers for the
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies
Ditto! Works very well on fast moving birdies. Other junk, including my offending computer equipment. L 73, Bill K9YEQ K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods It works. Good addition. 73 de KE4WY Jim _ From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Dorchuck I recently installed the KRX3 and seem to have some of the birdie problems others have noted, the loudest on 14.186.7 (S3). The others are masked when connected to an antenna and are not a problem. Thanks all, Bob W6VY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED's
Ken, Thank you for putting it on the list as I would not have necessarily seen it. I think Aptos would be supportive of what we are doing. They may have the power to get better prices on what we need, or may already possess the parts to make the change. Now how many units have sold and what is the interest... that's another story. We could volunteer to put together a manual update and kit. I would be happy to assist. I have done some manual writing in my past life working on a software design team and there are those of us who are interested to put together a well thought out update. I would consider it an honor to do so. We can move this off list and start our own group until we have finished the effort. 73, Bill K9YEQ K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 1:05 PM I must confess that when I replied to Dave about changing the W1 LED's I inadvertently sent my message to the list. I didn't intend to do so, but it looks like there's a LOT of interest in changing the LED colors used in the W1's SWR display. I had ordered a W1 and asked Scott to add the yellow and green LED's to my order, which he did. I was on the phone with him while he was looking into the stock bins and he has my thanks for the trouble he took. Another example of the attitude of the Aptos folks. As Scott pointed out, there would be a good bit of behind-the scenes work to make the SWR display in all production kits a three-color display. Lots of documentation to change and verify, etc. I'm sure the designer of the W1 could answer the questions about the brightness of the three colors. Perhaps, if/when there's time someone at Aptos can tell us if such a change might be in the future. Maybe a Mod kit would meet the needs of those of us who want to make the change, even if -all- the SWR LED's need to be changed to achieve equal brightness in the row.I expect the Aptos stockroom has all colors needed, but perhaps it's unrealistic to make up change kits and bill them out. In reality, probably not worth the effort. On the other hand, for those of us in the outback, the only alternative is a supply house with a likely minimum order fee that's far beyond the LED cost. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@rfwave.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: cw xmiting 2 signals 600hz apart: HELP
Ive seen this several times on other rigs, not the K3. In a couple of instances it turned out to be low DC supply voltage. Be sure it's 13.8V. Good luck. 73 Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.com - Original Message - From: DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL doug...@gmail.com To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 4:58 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K3: cw xmiting 2 signals 600hz apart: HELP Hi everybody... I local K3 owner received this memo and forwarded it to me this morning for my opinion: When you were working HA5JI, you had a side band about s6 up about 600 Hz. I did not check the down side. Your main signal was s9+20. I was at work so I said I would listen when I got home (we live about 3 miles apart). On 160m (where he got the notice), his signal sounded fine barefoot, but with the amp on, I could hear it also. So I asked him to qsy to 40m where he is about 25db over 9 on my K3. And as I tuned off of him, I could hear the second signal as described above. The 2nd signal tunes in the same direction as the real signal (it is not blow by). Any comments or even better, any suggestions for him? Thanks, Doug KR2Q __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.1/1962 - Release Date: 02/20/09 07:26:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies
The software fix works extremely well. I haven't found a single birdie yet that I couldn't handle. Done properly, they go completely away. I'm curious, though ... did adding the KRX3 accentuate the birdies compared with how it was before you added it? I built my K3 and installed the KRX3 all at once before I checked for birdies so I don't have a comparison, but I have suspected that there are stronger birdies with the KRX3 than without it. The most obvious reason would be the additional TMP cables, but I'm not sure that's the culprit. I half suspect that the shield of the KRX3 (which does an excellent job for the KRX3) couples signals to the main receiver. I used a wide flat blade screwdriver to short the shield of the KRX3 shield to the case while monitoring the birdies, and I found that the birdies were VERY sensitive to where on the KRX3 shield I did that. It's possible that the screwdriver blade was acting as sort of an antenna, but I doubt it since the birdies always decreased in strength when I found the right spot ... I never found a spot where the birdies increased in strength as a result of my playing with the screwdriver. 73, Dave AB7E Robert Dorchuck wrote: I recently installed the KRX3 and seem to have some of the birdie problems others have noted, the loudest on 14.186.7 (S3). The others are masked when connected to an antenna and are not a problem. I have tried adjusting the cables and saw some improvement but it will not be a solution as Wayne noted. Has anyone tried the test firmware that Wayne mentioned a week or so ago? Thanks all, Bob W6VY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies
It works a treat on fast-moving birdies (the ones that flash across the bandpass as you tune slowly by them). After reading your message I looked for and found one near there - on my K3 it could be heard between about 14187.15 and 14187.3 kHz - I made a couple of adjustments with the birdie removal feature and now it's gone. 73, Rich VE3KI Bob W6VY said: I recently installed the KRX3 and seem to have some of the birdie = problems others have noted, the loudest on 14.186.7 (S3). The others are masked when connected to an antenna and are not a problem. I have tried adjusting the cables and saw some improvement but it will not be a solution as Wayne noted. Has anyone tried the test firmware that Wayne mentioned a week or so ago? Thanks all, Bob W6VY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies
I agree, the birdie-be-gone feature seems to work quite well at removing fast tuning birdies within the limitations of its current implementation. I hope there will eventually be software commands to allow the process of removing a birdie to be automated. It's not hard, just a little tedious. 73 -- Joe KB8AP On Feb 20, 2009, at 3:36 PM, wayne burdick wrote: Bob, I've had very positive feedback from a dozen or so K3 customers who have used the new birdie removal feature successfully. This will be included in the next beta release. But don't take my word for it :) I'm sure others will weigh in. 73, Wayne N6KR On Feb 20, 2009, at 3:31 PM, Robert Dorchuck wrote: I recently installed the KRX3 and seem to have some of the birdie problems others have noted, the loudest on 14.186.7 (S3). The others are masked when connected to an antenna and are not a problem. I have tried adjusting the cables and saw some improvement but it will not be a solution as Wayne noted. Has anyone tried the test firmware that Wayne mentioned a week or so ago? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: cw xmiting 2 signals 600hz apart: HELP
Hi Doug, This certainly happens with the K2. The cause in the K2 case is that the CW sidetone oscillator signal gets into the VCO's varicap circuit and frequency modulates the VCO. The sidebands that I can see coming from my K2 in CW mode are symmetrical above and below carrier, one pair about 90db below carrier and the others much lower in amplitude. Their level varies with band. 73, Geoff GM4ESD DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote: Hi everybody... I local K3 owner received this memo and forwarded it to me this morning for my opinion: When you were working HA5JI, you had a side band about s6 up about 600 Hz. I did not check the down side. Your main signal was s9+20. I was at work so I said I would listen when I got home (we live about 3 miles apart). On 160m (where he got the notice), his signal sounded fine barefoot, but with the amp on, I could hear it also. So I asked him to qsy to 40m where he is about 25db over 9 on my K3. And as I tuned off of him, I could hear the second signal as described above. The 2nd signal tunes in the same direction as the real signal (it is not blow by). Any comments or even better, any suggestions for him? Thanks, Doug KR2Q __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies
The patch will NOT remove computer junk, it was a tongue-in-cheek comment. 73, Bill K9YEQ K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods -Original Message- Bill, I looked through the archives but can't find the sig rmv patch. Can you tell me where it is? I don't have birdies but I DO have computer junk! Thanks, Sid Bill Johnson wrote: Ditto! Works very well on fast moving birdies. Other junk, including my offending computer equipment. L __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies
How does one acquire the birdie removal software and it is only usable if you have the second receiver? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies
The birdie removeal software is an upcoming revision of the MCU firmware. Ask Wayne (n...@elecraft.com) for an early copy. Before too awfully long it'll be available to all on the K3 software web site as a Beta version. 73 de Dick, K6KR -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of SidShusterman Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 6:16 PM Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies How does one acquire the birdie removal software and it is only usable if you have the second receiver? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 the greatest
I am amazed that no one mentioned Signal/One CX-7 A B. What a marvelous radio that had all the bells and whistles for its time. Imagine a nixie tube digital read-out.fantastic speech processor ( when adjusted correctly) and all solid state except for the final in the 70's. 73 de Greg-N4CC _ From: greenacres...@aol.com [mailto:greenacres...@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 11:40 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 the greatest It depends on your perspective. This is my 50th ham yr. my 2 wk. anniverary with the K3. It's the best receiver I've used. I think as the Mustang car changed that world the TS 520 the FT 101 did theirs. The 1st average guy transceivers that ran forever were affordable. The Collins line was great but way beyond the average hams budget. The Drake twins TR4 were at the top of that class too. For the roll your own guys Heath changed everything. There are thousands of SB200s SB220s still plowing the way today. I think the K3 Elecraft will be game changers too.It's history is to be written yet. The test of time is the final judge. k9il __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies
Personally, I don't think that's going to be likely. The birdies don't all tune in the same direction, and they all aren't in the same position relative to a 100 Hz boundary. As a result, some birdies are best removed by a shift in one direction, and others by a shift in the other direction. Birdies near a 100 Hz boundary (i.e., 14174.101) often require both ... a shift in one direction for one 100Hz segment and in the opposite direction for the adjacent segment, but even that generalization is not always optimum. Since the birdies are mixer products of UHF harmonics and their strength varies from rig to rig depending upon cable placement, I don't think it's going to be very practical for the software to try to know what generated a birdie on any particular frequency in order to decide how best to remove it. For me, I'm just glad to be able to remove them manually. 73, Dave AB7E Joe Planisky wrote: I agree, the birdie-be-gone feature seems to work quite well at removing fast tuning birdies within the limitations of its current implementation. I hope there will eventually be software commands to allow the process of removing a birdie to be automated. It's not hard, just a little tedious. 73 -- Joe KB8AP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1
Bill: I've done some further testing and believe it's going to take increasing the current to approx 6 to 7 ma to get the new coloured LEDs to be bright enough. That would involve reducing the 2.2 Ks to approx 470 ohms and finding a source for a suitable resistor pack. At this higher current the red LEDs are still brighter than the other colours and there is no easy way to separately control the current to individual colours. There are also a number of other things to check such as the ability of the U3 regulator to handle the increased current. Battery life will also be reduced and perhaps this coloured version needs to be run from a wall wart. 73 Doug, VE3MV - Original Message - From: Bill Johnson b...@creeksidecomputing.com To: 'Dave Van Wallaghen' w8...@comcast.net; 'Jack Smith' jack.sm...@cliftonlaboratories.com Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; 'Ken Kopp' k...@rfwave.net Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 6:59 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1 Thanks for the excellent discussion and possible solutions. Please include me in the effort to experiment. My Hakko 808 hasn't been used for a month so I wouldn't mind helping out. I will gladly put in some $'s to purchase parts/share in cost to get at a solution. Suggestion: if the green and yellow output is sufficient and the amber is the only low output, perhaps it might best to revert back to either yellow or red... the user could decide. Let me know what I can do. I would also be ok with replacing the drive resistors to boost the LED output for SWR readings: perhaps reducing the Power LED output slightly might be a power consideration for battery conservation. 73, Bill K9YEQ K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods -Original Message- ... my guess is that the W1 was designed for low current consumption being battery operated and used for portable ops. So I'm sure your calculations are right on. ... ordered the Lumex line of red, yellow and green leds that Doug spoke about. They are all very close in forward voltage and are all rated at 10mcd output. I also ordered the amber, although it is only rated at 5mcd and their super red which is rated at 80mcd. I will try these out on my W1 to see the differences. Besides, I just bought a new Hakko 808 I've been wanting to try out. My guess is at worst, the power scale leds may be brighter than the SWR scale, but I can at least get the SWR uniform in brightness. Other than that, it might take replacing the power scale leds as well for those who want it totally uniform. Or like Jack alluded to, replacing the series resistors which doesn't sound like much fun to me (and possibly increasing current consumption). I will make current measurements before I replace anything and record the changes in current while experimenting. I will post my results back to the list. If there is enough interest (and it seems like there is) I would not mind ordering these in quantity and a splitting them up 73, Dave W8FGU Jack Smith wrote: I have some experience driving LEDs from a PIC (both in my book Programming the PIC Microcontroller with MBasic) as well as the Z100 CW tuning aid kit that I developed. (Still available, should anyone be interested, as well as the book is still in print.) The Z100 uses red, yellow and green rectangular LEDs, driven from a PIC with a small series resistor. http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z100_tuning_aid.htm for more details. For all practical purposes, a PIC won't source more than about 20 mA even into a short circuit. Looking at the W1's schematic (I don't own one) it seems that the maximum current available to drive an LED is around 1.5 mA (5V from the PIC, less 2V drop for the LED average, with 2K ohm series from the PIC output. The 2N7000's on resistance can be ignored in this calculation.) That's quite low current, and it should be possible to boost it--and the LED's brightness--considerably by reducing the 2K series resistors. My experience is that although perhaps not designed that way, PICs are pretty abuse tolerant in the output mode. My Z100 drives the LEDs through 43 ohm resistors and the LEDs are quite bright. The Z100's typical LED driving current is around 10 mA if I remember the measurements correctly. A couple of caveats - the Z100 does not run with all the LEDs illuminated under normal conditions. With noise, perhaps three or four are at at maximum, and with a signal input, one or two. Hence the Z100's+5V regulator is not designed to provide oodles of current. Second, there is a dissipation limit on how much total current a PIC can source from all pins. If the W1 operates in a mode where most LEDs are on for extended periods, I would evaluate the 5V regulator's thermal performance and also the PIC's maximum power dissipation before getting carried away with reducing the series driver resistors. As usual, should
[Elecraft] K3 new bug?
Normally - when running SSB- the CW insert functions properly. With latest F/W and in split this does not work. As I recall it did work before. Any comments? Len SM7BIC__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies
I'm not suggesting that it would be possible to calculate a solution, but rather provide audio feedback to a program so it could do what I do: listen for a tone, adjust the shift until it disappears, tune up (or down) to the next 100 Hz segment, adjust the shift, repeat until you hit a segment with just noise. (I'm also not proposing that it scan the whole band looking for birdies. I'll do that. But when I find one, I'll hit a button that says 'take it out'.) 73 == Joe KB8AP On Feb 20, 2009, at 7:21 PM, David Gilbert wrote: Personally, I don't think that's going to be likely. The birdies don't all tune in the same direction, and they all aren't in the same position relative to a 100 Hz boundary. As a result, some birdies are best removed by a shift in one direction, and others by a shift in the other direction. Birdies near a 100 Hz boundary (i.e., 14174.101) often require both ... a shift in one direction for one 100Hz segment and in the opposite direction for the adjacent segment, but even that generalization is not always optimum. Since the birdies are mixer products of UHF harmonics and their strength varies from rig to rig depending upon cable placement, I don't think it's going to be very practical for the software to try to know what generated a birdie on any particular frequency in order to decide how best to remove it. For me, I'm just glad to be able to remove them manually. 73, Dave AB7E Joe Planisky wrote: I agree, the birdie-be-gone feature seems to work quite well at removing fast tuning birdies within the limitations of its current implementation. I hope there will eventually be software commands to allow the process of removing a birdie to be automated. It's not hard, just a little tedious. 73 -- Joe KB8AP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Frequency Warping Cap for XV144
Is there any way to put in a tuning capacitor so that I can adjust the LO frequency of my XV144 transverter? The XV50 has one of these, but the 2 meter unit has a somewhat different oscillator circuit. 73, Steve WA9JML __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Frequency Warping Cap for XV144
Steve, If you're using the XV144 with a K2 or K3 you can set up a transverter band, with a per-band offset of +/- 9.99 kHz. The VFO dial will then read accurately for each transverter. 73, Wayne N6KR On Feb 20, 2009, at 9:14 PM, Steve Berg wrote: Is there any way to put in a tuning capacitor so that I can adjust the LO frequency of my XV144 transverter? The XV50 has one of these, but the 2 meter unit has a somewhat different oscillator circuit. --- http://www.elecraft.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies
I could change the firmware so that when in you're in the SIG RMV menu entry, it could slew the VFO over the present 100-Hz segment (i.e., from .000 to .099) once per second. This way you could hear the full effect of each SIG RMV step without having to exit the menu and move VFO A manually. It might be sonically entertaining, too. 73, Wayne N6KR On Feb 20, 2009, at 9:05 PM, Joe Planisky wrote: I'm not suggesting that it would be possible to calculate a solution, but rather provide audio feedback to a program so it could do what I do: listen for a tone, adjust the shift until it disappears, tune up (or down) to the next 100 Hz segment, adjust the shift, repeat until you hit a segment with just noise. (I'm also not proposing that it scan the whole band looking for birdies. I'll do that. But when I find one, I'll hit a button that says 'take it out'.) 73 == Joe KB8AP --- http://www.elecraft.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: cw xmiting 2 signals 600hz apart: HELP
My findings are be sure to run as high voltage to K3 as possible. Per the manual 15V is the stipulated maximum, run K3 at 14.9V and make sure you have no voltage drop in the cable between K3 and PS. This will give you the best TX performance in respect to IMD. / Jim SM2EKM -- Steve Ellington wrote: Ive seen this several times on other rigs, not the K3. In a couple of instances it turned out to be low DC supply voltage. Be sure it's 13.8V. Good luck. 73 Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.com - Original Message - From: DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL doug...@gmail.com To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 4:58 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K3: cw xmiting 2 signals 600hz apart: HELP Hi everybody... I local K3 owner received this memo and forwarded it to me this morning for my opinion: When you were working HA5JI, you had a side band about s6 up about 600 Hz. I did not check the down side. Your main signal was s9+20. I was at work so I said I would listen when I got home (we live about 3 miles apart). On 160m (where he got the notice), his signal sounded fine barefoot, but with the amp on, I could hear it also. So I asked him to qsy to 40m where he is about 25db over 9 on my K3. And as I tuned off of him, I could hear the second signal as described above. The 2nd signal tunes in the same direction as the real signal (it is not blow by). Any comments or even better, any suggestions for him? Thanks, Doug KR2Q __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd:RE:RE:RE:RE Off Topic question about shortwave broadcasting
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 14:39:13 -0800, you wrote: Did not anybody get MY EXPLANATION about 40m SW broadcasters earlier??? OH WELL! Sometimes offering information out here is a WASTE OF TIME!!! Jim/nn6ee I think I sent that before you explained the new band plan. 73 es have a good weekend 73, Tom, N5GE K3 806 XV144 XV432 http://www.n5ge.com http://www.swotrc.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] WTB K2 w/100w, w/AT
Looking to buy a clean basic K2 with A/T and 100 Watts. Rig for CW. Ted 209-601-5354 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
