[Elecraft] [K2] Control board U4 8v regulator issue
Has anyone else had a 8v regulator (U4) on their control board show a lower voltage than it should? Mine shows 7.61v with the board in the radio or on the bench with a 14v supply connected to the input of that regulator. All components and soldering look correct. The 5v regulator is at 5.00v. All functions in the test procedure work as they should except the AGC voltage couldn't be set to 3.80v because of the 8v buss being at 7.61v, the AGC voltage changed as it should but was lower than the 3.80v suggested for setting R1 to. Nothing runs hot or smells hot. What do you guys think? Bad regulator or??? Many thanks, Mike WE0H __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
James Sarte wrote: At first I thought I did not have any noticeable birdies, but now it seems that I have developed a few. It's probably from moving cables and such around inside the rig. We could really use a detailed set of photos of cables behind the synth board(s), showing the complete step-by-step buildup of a good layout - and also examples showing what *not* to do. -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Control board U4 8v regulator issueSolved problem
I replaced the regulator and now have 8.30v output from U4. The original regulator only put out 7.61v. Thankfully I had a used regulator on a parts board from a security system!!! hi hi... Mike Mike-WE0H wrote: Has anyone else had a 8v regulator (U4) on their control board show a lower voltage than it should? Mine shows 7.61v with the board in the radio or on the bench with a 14v supply connected to the input of that regulator. All components and soldering look correct. The 5v regulator is at 5.00v. All functions in the test procedure work as they should except the AGC voltage couldn't be set to 3.80v because of the 8v buss being at 7.61v, the AGC voltage changed as it should but was lower than the 3.80v suggested for setting R1 to. Nothing runs hot or smells hot. What do you guys think? Bad regulator or??? Many thanks, Mike WE0H __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Missed QSOs with N1MM and KUSB
Ignacy wrote: When the frequency is changed in N1MM by 500 Hz or so, the callsign in the input windows is wiped clean. So if the frequency of K3 was changed by 10 KHz but the update in N1MM was by 1 Khz/s, anything one typed in one second disappeared the next second. That seems like poor software design to me. If it really seems as if the frequency updates are slow to reach the computer, perhaps you are connecting to the K3 at a low baud rate. Make sure you are using 38400 to minimize any delay in updating the frequency from the K3. - Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392 K3 #222. http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack http://www.g4ilo.com/blog.html G4ILO's Bloghttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Missed-QSOs-with-N1MM-and-KUSB-tp2417702p2421068.html Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 and FL-7000 amp
Hi Ron I am using the K3/ FL7000 combo. I did not have to put in any pull up resistors. The auto band change works fine although wiring up the plugs was a bit tricky/ tedious - but well worth doing. I also did the ALC mod to the K3 and whilst it works with the FL7000 it is rather unstable. The ALC level and hence the amplifier current continuously varies over a small range. I did follow up Elecraft about this problem but got a wishy washy sort of response which didn't help with the problem. So I turned the ALC off and operate without it. It is very simple to set the power out from the K3 to run the amplifier power you want. I usually run mine at 400w out which is the legal limit here. 73 Barry VK2BJ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
I also wonder if it would be worthwhile buying higher spec coax. Don't know what is used in the K3, but for the lengths involved it would be worth the investment to get short cables made in say LMR100 or RG142 etc if it's not already David G3UNA Ian White GM3SEK gm3...@ifwtech.co.uk wrote: James Sarte wrote: At first I thought I did not have any noticeable birdies, but now it seems that I have developed a few. It's probably from moving cables and such around inside the rig. We could really use a detailed set of photos of cables behind the synth board(s), showing the complete step-by-step buildup of a good layout - and also examples showing what *not* to do. -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 - Wanted, KFL3A-250
If anyone has a KFL3A - 250 hz roofing filter they would like to sell, please contact me off reflector. Bruce - N1LN ( n...@arrl.net ) 73, Bruce - N1LN (aka: NC4KW) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Missed QSOs with N1MM and KUSB
My K3 with N1MM does not do anything erratic like this. This is not a software issue. Something is wrong in the configuration of this system - perhaps the USB to RS232 port is defective or the parameters are incorrect. 73, Bob W5OV -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Julian, G4ILO Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 3:08 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Missed QSOs with N1MM and KUSB Ignacy wrote: When the frequency is changed in N1MM by 500 Hz or so, the callsign in the input windows is wiped clean. So if the frequency of K3 was changed by 10 KHz but the update in N1MM was by 1 Khz/s, anything one typed in one second disappeared the next second. That seems like poor software design to me. If it really seems as if the frequency updates are slow to reach the computer, perhaps you are connecting to the K3 at a low baud rate. Make sure you are using 38400 to minimize any delay in updating the frequency from the K3. - Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392 K3 #222. http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack http://www.g4ilo.com/blog.html G4ILO's Bloghttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Missed-QSOs-with-N1MM-and-KUSB-tp2417702p2421068.html Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Control board U4 8v regulator issue
Mike, The regulator is a 10% tolerance part, so any voltage between 7.2 and 8.8 volts meets the spec for the regulator. They have been running on the low side of the 8 volt nominal rating for some time now, and cause no harm other than the AGC Threshold voltage cannot be adjusted up to the level indicated in the manual. Everything is proportional, and since the IF amplifier (which is controlled by the AGC) also runs off the 8 volt regulator, setting the AGC Threshold at its maximum setting works just fine. The real consequence of low AGC Threshold voltage is that the S-meter setting get a bit 'squirrelly' when the voltage is lower. If you are able to adjust the CAL S LO and CAL S HI for proper S-meter action, then all is well. If you have trouble with the S-meter settings, add a 10k to 15k resistor across Control Board RP5 pins 3 and 4 - then readjust the AGC Threshold. 73, Don W3FPR Mike-WE0H wrote: Has anyone else had a 8v regulator (U4) on their control board show a lower voltage than it should? Mine shows 7.61v with the board in the radio or on the bench with a 14v supply connected to the input of that regulator. All components and soldering look correct. The 5v regulator is at 5.00v. All functions in the test procedure work as they should except the AGC voltage couldn't be set to 3.80v because of the 8v buss being at 7.61v, the AGC voltage changed as it should but was lower than the 3.80v suggested for setting R1 to. Nothing runs hot or smells hot. What do you guys think? Bad regulator or??? Many thanks, Mike WE0H __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] multiple Digests
Yesterday I was getting dupes of the digests... Today, I'm getting three of each. Problem with my email provider or on the sending side? Cheers, Julius Julius Fazekas N2WN Tennessee Contest Group http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html Tennessee QSO Party http://www.tnqp.org/ Elecraft K2/100 #4455 Elecraft K3/100 #366 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (no subject) fans on startup ???
Could it be the fans, when I power up they briefly turn on... bill At 10:30 PM 3/3/2009, Daniel B Beugelmans Md wrote: Dear K3 reflector- I have a question regarding my new to me K3- 100 with ATU. Although it seems to work well, when I turn it on, I hear a fairly loud high pitched motor-like almost hissing sound, lasting for about two seconds. This sound is not always the same loudness, but is nearly always there. This happens whether the ATU is off or on, and with nothing connected to my transceiver except for the power supply and antenna. My transceiver is in the 600 series serial number range, and is stock except for the ATU, TCXO, 100 watt module, and a 400 HZ 8 pole filter. I seems to come from the right side of the rig. Should I be concerned? I am using latest firmware. Thanks, Dan __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] multiple Digests
It's people sending the same initial messages and subsequent responses to multiple lists. This is a netiquette no-no. -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Julius Fazekas Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 6:55 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] multiple Digests Yesterday I was getting dupes of the digests... Today, I'm getting three of each. Problem with my email provider or on the sending side? Cheers, Julius Julius Fazekas N2WN Tennessee Contest Group http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html Tennessee QSO Party http://www.tnqp.org/ Elecraft K2/100 #4455 Elecraft K3/100 #366 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
Hello Grant, There are some that are strong enough that when the antenna is removed, they can still be heard a little bit above the noise floor. For the most part however, removing the antenna or changing over to the dummy load removes or masks them completely. It really does sound like some sort of synth noise, but I can't explain its behavior with the antenna. They are always in the same places, and when you tune up or down the band, the tones will change in pitch until you pass a certain frequency. 73, James KC2UEE -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Grant Youngman Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 1:08 AM To: Elecraft Mailing List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question? What you're hearing aren't birdies. If they go away when you remove the antenna, then obviously they're signals being picked up by the antenna from some source outside the radio. Do you her them on another receiver connected to the same antenna? Grant/NQ5T On Mar 3, 2009, at 11:22 PM, James Sarte wrote: Dear group, At first I thought I did not have any noticeable birdies, but now it seems that I have developed a few. It's probably from moving cables and such around inside the rig. When I tune quickly through a band, I can hear solid tones that change in pitch as I move up or down in frequency. The weird thing is, they don't behave like I thought a birdie would. In my case, disconnect the antenna and the tone practically disappears below the noise floor. Reinsert the antenna, and it comes back. Also, switching from my antenna on ANT1 to the dummy load on ANT2 or the RX connector removes the birdie as well. The NB has no effect, but the notch feature does. For example, moving the notch to 2700Hz wipes out a strong signal tone on 28.380 I haven't tried the birdie mapping feature yet, so I thought I'd ask. is what I'm hearing considered a birdie in this case, or just DDS signal noise? 73, James KC2UEE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 can now be readily mated to the Yaesu Quadra HF Amp
Thanks to pinout info from Joe, W4TV, and Kent, K9ZTV, the K3 can now be fairly easily mated up to the Yaesu Quadra HF Amp. Joe provided the main set of pinouts and Kent offered up the key info for getting the Quadra to go into auto-TUNE mode to allow its ATU to operate when the K3 was Keyed. K9ZTV is now Field testing the configuration, but so far, things look very good, and appear to be stable with respect to ALC control of the K3 drive power. We're still working on getting the Quadra's ALC output voltage level to that precise setting which will allow the K3 to be run at a drive level lower than about 80W yet still adequately drive and control the Quadra. The ALC works nicely, but we'd still like to be able to use about 40W of drive so the ALC doesn't have to work nearly as hard to control the drive. I believe we will find the 'sweet spot', but it will probably be a combination of the K3's EXT ALC setting and the ALC SET value from the Quadra. If you would like to see a PDF of the current interconnection illustration, please drop me an e-mail and I'll send the file to you... can't send PDFs through the reflector... sorry. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
James, Any signal coming in from the antenna will change pitch when you tune the radio in CW, SSB or DATA mode. That's not how you tell a birdie from a real signal - it's removing the antenna that distinguishes them. A real signal will either disappear entirely or at least become much weaker when the antenna is removed. Internal birdies, on the other hand, usually sound louder when the antenna is removed, because the noise floor surrounding them drops. Note also that there is a difference between the situation with nothing connected to any of the K3's antenna connectors, and having anything at all, such as an antenna switch or a dummy load or just a short piece of coax, connected to one of the connectors. If the signal is still there with nothing whatsoever touching any of the antenna connectors, then it is likely a birdie internal to the radio. From your description, it sounds as if you are hearing external signals, not birdies. There are different kinds of birdies. Some are on fixed frequencies, just like real signals, and others are harmonics that tune more rapidly than real signals. The birdies that are removed by the new signal removal feature are the ones that change pitch abnormally rapidly as you tune the radio. With a real signal, if you change the receiver's frequency by 10 Hz, the pitch of the signal changes by 10 Hz. With one of these fast birdies, changing the tuning of the radio by 10 Hz might cause the pitch of the birdie to change by 300 Hz. These fast birdies also change pitch when you rotate the Shift control - real signals do not. Using a 2.7 kHz roofing filter, as you tune past a real signal it will be audible over a tuning range of about 2.7 kHz, and will sweep steadily from very low to very high pitch (or vice versa) as you tune past it. In contrast, a fast birdie might only be audible over a tuning range of about 100 Hz, i.e. as you tune the radio past the birdie it will jump right across the audible range of pitches within only 100 Hz of dial movement. These are the birdies that the signal removal feature works on. It doesn't work on birdies that are on fixed frequencies and tune like real signals. 73, Rich VE3KI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] multiple Digests
I occasionally get multiple copies of the same email and it's something to do with my provider: NTL; they don't always clear out of the server when received in my in tray. I know this because I go to webmail to do the clearing manually. David G3UNA Robert Naumann w...@w5ov.com wrote: It's people sending the same initial messages and subsequent responses to multiple lists. This is a netiquette no-no. -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Julius Fazekas Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 6:55 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] multiple Digests Yesterday I was getting dupes of the digests... Today, I'm getting three of each. Problem with my email provider or on the sending side? Cheers, Julius Julius Fazekas N2WN Tennessee Contest Group http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html Tennessee QSO Party http://www.tnqp.org/ Elecraft K2/100 #4455 Elecraft K3/100 #366 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
I've had the cables all over the place. There seems to be only one cable whose placement has a significant effect on birdies. That's the long (10/25cm)cable running from J84 at the bottom of the Auxiliary KSYN3 board to J85 on the KRX3 RF module. It should be dressed as shown in Figure 47 in the KRX3 manual. In some cases it helps to keep it away from the tiny toriods on the mixer board as well. Either run it across above the mixer board as shown or work it down under the mixer board so it loops up between the mixer board and the front panel shield to J85 on the KRX3 RF module. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ian White GM3SEK Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 12:11 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question? James Sarte wrote: At first I thought I did not have any noticeable birdies, but now it seems that I have developed a few. It's probably from moving cables and such around inside the rig. We could really use a detailed set of photos of cables behind the synth board(s), showing the complete step-by-step buildup of a good layout - and also examples showing what *not* to do. -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
Rich, Many thanks for your reply. From your description, it then sounds as if I'm hearing a real signal. I do have a theory that there may be some sort of electronic signal getting into my feedline. My coax isn't routed ideally, as a good portion of it runs between two entertainment centers chock full of transformers, etc. These birdies or signals as I hear them change in pitch over a wide range, not just 100Hz. For example, if I start at 28.375, I can hear a solid tone. As I go to 28.376, the tone pitch increases and so on until it peaks at 28.380. At 28.381, I can no longer hear it. If I go back down in frequency, the pattern repeats itself with the tone pitch decreasing. I seem to hear these birdies spaced every 500-700 KHz. I'm going by memory now as I don't have the rig in front of me. If I remove the antenna, most of them go away. When I say most, I'd guess about 98% of them. Only some which are very strong are still barely audible, but their behavior doesn't change as I tune around. They are not by your description fast tuning. With the antenna connected, the loudest of these signals will peak my S-meter at S3. With no antenna, it may be an S0-S1. Interestingly, removing the antenna does not affect the sub receiver as I can still hear them a little bit when the sub is set to ANT1. Switching the sub to the BNC though, and all remaining signals disappear. I'll have to play around a little bit more to determine the origin, but I was surprised to suddenly hear all of these signals spaced quite evenly apart. I began to think that this was synthesizer noise, as it does sound similar to the DDS signals. I remember telling Wayne over the phone that I was pleasantly surprised after the build, because the first thing I did was to tune around the entire frequency range with no antenna attached to test for birdies, and I did not hear any at all. 73, James KC2UEE On Wed, Mar 4, 2009 at 10:07 AM, Richard Ferch ve3...@storm.ca wrote: James, Any signal coming in from the antenna will change pitch when you tune the radio in CW, SSB or DATA mode. That's not how you tell a birdie from a real signal - it's removing the antenna that distinguishes them. A real signal will either disappear entirely or at least become much weaker when the antenna is removed. Internal birdies, on the other hand, usually sound louder when the antenna is removed, because the noise floor surrounding them drops. Note also that there is a difference between the situation with nothing connected to any of the K3's antenna connectors, and having anything at all, such as an antenna switch or a dummy load or just a short piece of coax, connected to one of the connectors. If the signal is still there with nothing whatsoever touching any of the antenna connectors, then it is likely a birdie internal to the radio. From your description, it sounds as if you are hearing external signals, not birdies. There are different kinds of birdies. Some are on fixed frequencies, just like real signals, and others are harmonics that tune more rapidly than real signals. The birdies that are removed by the new signal removal feature are the ones that change pitch abnormally rapidly as you tune the radio. With a real signal, if you change the receiver's frequency by 10 Hz, the pitch of the signal changes by 10 Hz. With one of these fast birdies, changing the tuning of the radio by 10 Hz might cause the pitch of the birdie to change by 300 Hz. These fast birdies also change pitch when you rotate the Shift control - real signals do not. Using a 2.7 kHz roofing filter, as you tune past a real signal it will be audible over a tuning range of about 2.7 kHz, and will sweep steadily from very low to very high pitch (or vice versa) as you tune past it. In contrast, a fast birdie might only be audible over a tuning range of about 100 Hz, i.e. as you tune the radio past the birdie it will jump right across the audible range of pitches within only 100 Hz of dial movement. These are the birdies that the signal removal feature works on. It doesn't work on birdies that are on fixed frequencies and tune like real signals. 73, Rich VE3KI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K-3 SSB AM Squelch
Hi Is there any progress in getting SSB squelch implemented ? I would like to monitor 6 meters in my KRX3 while on lower bands. I can listen to 6 meters now but have to listen to noise on the right speaker. Thanks Phil __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I've had the cables all over the place. There seems to be only one cable whose placement has a significant effect on birdies. That's the long (10/25cm)cable running from J84 at the bottom of the Auxiliary KSYN3 board to J85 on the KRX3 RF module. It should be dressed as shown in Figure 47 in the KRX3 manual. In some cases it helps to keep it away from the tiny toriods on the mixer board as well. Either run it across above the mixer board as shown or work it down under the mixer board so it loops up between the mixer board and the front panel shield to J85 on the KRX3 RF module. Thanks, Ron. -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 Intermitt
Dear Elecrafters, For some years now my K2/100 S/N 838 has had an intermitt. When I take it to a new location, it is generally jostled somewhat in moving it and hooking it up. When all installed, everything works perfectly,... then... Without warning, the received tone on the other guy gets holes in it. Like a noise blanker is cutting out the audio on noise bursts, only the noise blanker is off and these holes are much bigger than noise blanker holes. The holes get bigger and bigger until you can't read the other station, then, mysteriously, they go away and all is normal. If you are transmitting during one of these episodes, the other station will report that you are breaking up. Whatever it is, affects both transmitt and receive the same. Some years ago I discovered that unplugging the anderson power connector on the rear and plugging it back in cleared the problem, but it troubled me that this is not a very good way to turn transistors on and off and it could result in transients. It certainly made a loud pop in the loudspeaker. Obviously, there was a problem in the power cord ! So the cord was replaced and the VCC was measured during a breaking up episode and found to be stable inside the K2/100. So it was not the power cord. The next solution was to turn K2 on it's left side and hit it with a good smart whack with my fist. After one or two of these, the problem clears and does not come back until K2 is taken on a trip, and then it starts up again. An easy fix and much less potentially destructive than jerking the power cord in and out. Never the less, still embarrassing on field day when I'm out with the boys. Does anyone have an idea what might be causing this ? Thanks, TR, WB6TMY K2/100 S/N 838 Tel: . . . 707-832-4304 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
James When you start looking around for sources of these external signals, be prepared for some surprises. I had a fairly strong signal on 10m that was a real nuisance. I turned off the power to my house and it went away. I finally found it in the controller for our air mattress in the bedroom. Now, during a serious 10m effort, like the ARRL 10m contest, I just unplug the controller until after the contest. 73, Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: KC2UEE kc2...@gmail.com To: Richard Ferch ve3...@storm.ca Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 8:15 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question? Rich, Many thanks for your reply. From your description, it then sounds as if I'm hearing a real signal. I do have a theory that there may be some sort of electronic signal getting into my feedline. My coax isn't routed ideally, as a good portion of it runs between two entertainment centers chock full of transformers, etc. These birdies or signals as I hear them change in pitch over a wide range, not just 100Hz. For example, if I start at 28.375, I can hear a solid tone. As I go to 28.376, the tone pitch increases and so on until it peaks at 28.380. At 28.381, I can no longer hear it. If I go back down in frequency, the pattern repeats itself with the tone pitch decreasing. I seem to hear these birdies spaced every 500-700 KHz. I'm going by memory now as I don't have the rig in front of me. If I remove the antenna, most of them go away. When I say most, I'd guess about 98% of them. Only some which are very strong are still barely audible, but their behavior doesn't change as I tune around. They are not by your description fast tuning. With the antenna connected, the loudest of these signals will peak my S-meter at S3. With no antenna, it may be an S0-S1. Interestingly, removing the antenna does not affect the sub receiver as I can still hear them a little bit when the sub is set to ANT1. Switching the sub to the BNC though, and all remaining signals disappear. I'll have to play around a little bit more to determine the origin, but I was surprised to suddenly hear all of these signals spaced quite evenly apart. I began to think that this was synthesizer noise, as it does sound similar to the DDS signals. I remember telling Wayne over the phone that I was pleasantly surprised after the build, because the first thing I did was to tune around the entire frequency range with no antenna attached to test for birdies, and I did not hear any at all. 73, James KC2UEE On Wed, Mar 4, 2009 at 10:07 AM, Richard Ferch ve3...@storm.ca wrote: James, Any signal coming in from the antenna will change pitch when you tune the radio in CW, SSB or DATA mode. That's not how you tell a birdie from a real signal - it's removing the antenna that distinguishes them. A real signal will either disappear entirely or at least become much weaker when the antenna is removed. Internal birdies, on the other hand, usually sound louder when the antenna is removed, because the noise floor surrounding them drops. Note also that there is a difference between the situation with nothing connected to any of the K3's antenna connectors, and having anything at all, such as an antenna switch or a dummy load or just a short piece of coax, connected to one of the connectors. If the signal is still there with nothing whatsoever touching any of the antenna connectors, then it is likely a birdie internal to the radio. From your description, it sounds as if you are hearing external signals, not birdies. There are different kinds of birdies. Some are on fixed frequencies, just like real signals, and others are harmonics that tune more rapidly than real signals. The birdies that are removed by the new signal removal feature are the ones that change pitch abnormally rapidly as you tune the radio. With a real signal, if you change the receiver's frequency by 10 Hz, the pitch of the signal changes by 10 Hz. With one of these fast birdies, changing the tuning of the radio by 10 Hz might cause the pitch of the birdie to change by 300 Hz. These fast birdies also change pitch when you rotate the Shift control - real signals do not. Using a 2.7 kHz roofing filter, as you tune past a real signal it will be audible over a tuning range of about 2.7 kHz, and will sweep steadily from very low to very high pitch (or vice versa) as you tune past it. In contrast, a fast birdie might only be audible over a tuning range of about 100 Hz, i.e. as you tune the radio past the birdie it will jump right across the audible range of pitches within only 100 Hz of dial movement. These are the birdies that the signal removal feature works on. It doesn't work on birdies that are on fixed frequencies and tune like real signals. 73, Rich VE3KI __ Elecraft mailing list
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
That particular TMP cable I have running underneath the KRX3 board, and over the filters. 73, James KC2UEE On Wed, Mar 4, 2009 at 11:01 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote: I've had the cables all over the place. There seems to be only one cable whose placement has a significant effect on birdies. That's the long (10/25cm)cable running from J84 at the bottom of the Auxiliary KSYN3 board to J85 on the KRX3 RF module. It should be dressed as shown in Figure 47 in the KRX3 manual. In some cases it helps to keep it away from the tiny toriods on the mixer board as well. Either run it across above the mixer board as shown or work it down under the mixer board so it loops up between the mixer board and the front panel shield to J85 on the KRX3 RF module. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ian White GM3SEK Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 12:11 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question? James Sarte wrote: At first I thought I did not have any noticeable birdies, but now it seems that I have developed a few. It's probably from moving cables and such around inside the rig. We could really use a detailed set of photos of cables behind the synth board(s), showing the complete step-by-step buildup of a good layout - and also examples showing what *not* to do. -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
James, I wound up running that one on top to diminish some of the birdies I had. In fact it almost eliminated most of them even with the antenna off and they ate certainly undetectable with the antenna connected. 73, Dave W8FGU -Original Message- From: KC2UEE kc2...@gmail.com Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 12:53:23 To: Ron D'Eau Clairer...@cobi.biz Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question? That particular TMP cable I have running underneath the KRX3 board, and over the filters. 73, James KC2UEE On Wed, Mar 4, 2009 at 11:01 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote: I've had the cables all over the place. There seems to be only one cable whose placement has a significant effect on birdies. That's the long (10/25cm)cable running from J84 at the bottom of the Auxiliary KSYN3 board to J85 on the KRX3 RF module. It should be dressed as shown in Figure 47 in the KRX3 manual. In some cases it helps to keep it away from the tiny toriods on the mixer board as well. Either run it across above the mixer board as shown or work it down under the mixer board so it loops up between the mixer board and the front panel shield to J85 on the KRX3 RF module. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ian White GM3SEK Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 12:11 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question? James Sarte wrote: At first I thought I did not have any noticeable birdies, but now it seems that I have developed a few. It's probably from moving cables and such around inside the rig. We could really use a detailed set of photos of cables behind the synth board(s), showing the complete step-by-step buildup of a good layout - and also examples showing what *not* to do. -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Nabble: new look and feel (if you read the Elecraft list on the web)
Well I certainly noticed the change and at the moment am not that convinced it is for me. But maybe time will tell. Is there any way to set up my preferences so it opens in the old style directly instead of having to click the 'Topics View' button? Thanks 73 Dave G3YMC -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Nabble%3A-new-look-and-feel-%28if-you-read-the-Elecraft-list-on-the-web%29-tp2412105p2424635.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
Aha! I think you're on to something here Bill. My RG-8 actually snakes its away around one of my entertainment centers where I happen to have a cable modem, network switch, and seperate wireless router all in the same spot. I have a PS3, Xbox360, and an Onkyo TX-NR905 receiver all wired by CAT-5 into the switch, plus the wireless router also wired into the switch is only a few inches away. The RG-8 runs behind all of that stuff, and if I recall, I simply have the cat5 cable laying loosely around it. There also happens to be several wall-wart transformers behind the entertainment center, which I'm sure aren't helping the situation. When I get home, I'll try and turn off the network devices and see what happens. Like you, I'm also a computer geek hihi. I've got 2 home built PC's, a Mac tower, and 3 laptops floating around the house all networked wirelessly. It never crossed my mind to check the network for EMI... thanks again for the suggestion! 73, James KC2UEE On Wed, Mar 4, 2009 at 1:07 PM, William Evans w4ish.b...@w4ish.net wrote: James, I believe what you are hearing are harmonics from ethernet cables. I listened on 28.380, and sure enough, I heard one of the tones there also which go away when I complete shield the antenna (dummy load) or remove it completely. I have been meaning to do something about these numerous network induced tones for a long time, but I haven't gotten around to it since they affect the higher frequencies the most (i.e., the quieter bands). Toroids and lots of shielding on all ethernet cables are required, and I have my whole house wired (about 6 computers, plus various routers, wi-fi, etc. Often the switching power supplies for these units generate a lot of noise.) Bill W4ISH __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
I find a portable (i.e. battery powered) short wave receiver very useful for tracking down local sources of EMI. When I hear EMI that goes away when I remove the antenna on my K3, I get out my SWL receiver and tune it to the same frequency so I can hear the EMI on it. With the telescoping whip antenna partially extended, I walk around the house, placing the tip of the whip near suspected devices. It's usually very obvious when you find the emitter as the signal rapidly gets louder as you get close. I then make a note in my logbook of the frequency and the offending device so I know exactly which gadget to turn off if the need arises (assuming I can't easily fix the device.) It's a little less disruptive than switching off circuit breakers. 73 -- Joe KB8AP On Mar 4, 2009, at 10:35 AM, KC2UEE wrote: Aha! I think you're on to something here Bill. My RG-8 actually snakes its away around one of my entertainment centers where I happen to have a cable modem, network switch, and seperate wireless router all in the same spot. I have a PS3, Xbox360, and an Onkyo TX- NR905 receiver all wired by CAT-5 into the switch, plus the wireless router also wired into the switch is only a few inches away. The RG-8 runs behind all of that stuff, and if I recall, I simply have the cat5 cable laying loosely around it. There also happens to be several wall-wart transformers behind the entertainment center, which I'm sure aren't helping the situation. When I get home, I'll try and turn off the network devices and see what happens. Like you, I'm also a computer geek hihi. I've got 2 home built PC's, a Mac tower, and 3 laptops floating around the house all networked wirelessly. It never crossed my mind to check the network for EMI... thanks again for the suggestion! 73, James KC2UEE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 VFO B Knob
There are times when I'd like to spin the VFO B knob on the K3 a bit more quickly than its small size allows, or do so continuously without ratcheting my wrist. I noticed that the guy who sells adhesive knob dimples also offers a replacement knob with a small crank for the FT-817. http://www.fingerdimple.com/main/page_ft817_kranker.html Anyone out there know if the FT-817 knob is similar in size (outside diameter, shaft diameter) to the knob used for VFO B on the K3? Thanks es 73, Dave AB7E __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO B Knob
Dave, I no longer have an 817, but I can tell you that the knob was definitely smaller than the K3 VFO B knob. In fact, I increased the size of it by installing a rubber crutch tip. :-) You might consider a K2 knob. It will hang a little low, but other than that it should clear everything else. The K2 knob is 1.5 in diameter. I put one on my K1. 73, Neal WA6OCP David Gilbert wrote: There are times when I'd like to spin the VFO B knob on the K3 a bit more quickly than its small size allows, or do so continuously without ratcheting my wrist. I noticed that the guy who sells adhesive knob dimples also offers a replacement knob with a small crank for the FT-817. http://www.fingerdimple.com/main/page_ft817_kranker.html Anyone out there know if the FT-817 knob is similar in size (outside diameter, shaft diameter) to the knob used for VFO B on the K3? Thanks es 73, Dave AB7E __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-VFO-B-Knob-tp2424889p2425274.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO B Knob
Neal, I am also interested. Is the K2 knob covered by rubber, like the main K3 knob? 73, Erik K7TV - Original Message - From: Neal wir...@prodigy.net To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 1:35 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO B Knob Dave, I no longer have an 817, but I can tell you that the knob was definitely smaller than the K3 VFO B knob. In fact, I increased the size of it by installing a rubber crutch tip. :-) You might consider a K2 knob. It will hang a little low, but other than that it should clear everything else. The K2 knob is 1.5 in diameter. I put one on my K1. 73, Neal WA6OCP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] March 2009 PBMME
Hello, Spring is hear and the last PBMME of the season is upon us. 14 March 2009 Polar Bear Moonlight Madness Event. The O-Fish-Al Polar Bear List and PB Ops that plan on going out to the trail can be found at: www.n3epa.org Stop back on 13 March 2009 and check the latest PB Ops list. I plan on starting out with a several mile hike on the Appalachian Trail in the early morning and camp over night. We might be on the air some time after 18:00 UTC. We will also participate in the Elecraft QP that day and night. The hike is weather permitting. If you hear a CQ PB from a station on HF, stop by and say hello. I will be using my Elecraft K2, mostly on CW. 72 and Thanks, Ron Polityka WB3AAL www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org/ K1 - SN 01011 K2 - SN 01392 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Intermitt
TR, Those conditions sound like you have an intermittent connection inside that K2 somewhere. Since it is a problem for both transmit and receive, it could be in the BFO or the PLL/VCO circuits. If it only occurs on one or two bands, then the problem spot could be either the bandpass filter or the low pass filter, but if it occurs on all bands, it must be in either the BFO or VCO. If I had to take bets, I would say the BFO is the more likely. I would replace the BFO crystals (which means a new filter alignment), the 2 Varactors (D37 and D38), and L33. Often in cases like this (when one cannot induce the failure to troubleshoot), it is quicker and easier just to make an educated guess and replace most everything associated with that circuit - that thinking often is better than the frustration that results from trying one component at a time. 73, Don W3FPR W B Reese wrote: Dear Elecrafters, For some years now my K2/100 S/N 838 has had an intermitt. When I take it to a new location, it is generally jostled somewhat in moving it and hooking it up. When all installed, everything works perfectly,... then... Without warning, the received tone on the other guy gets holes in it. Like a noise blanker is cutting out the audio on noise bursts, only the noise blanker is off and these holes are much bigger than noise blanker holes. The holes get bigger and bigger until you can't read the other station, then, mysteriously, they go away and all is normal. If you are transmitting during one of these episodes, the other station will report that you are breaking up. Whatever it is, affects both transmitt and receive the same. Some years ago I discovered that unplugging the anderson power connector on the rear and plugging it back in cleared the problem, but it troubled me that this is not a very good way to turn transistors on and off and it could result in transients. It certainly made a loud pop in the loudspeaker. Obviously, there was a problem in the power cord ! So the cord was replaced and the VCC was measured during a breaking up episode and found to be stable inside the K2/100. So it was not the power cord. The next solution was to turn K2 on it's left side and hit it with a good smart whack with my fist. After one or two of these, the problem clears and does not come back until K2 is taken on a trip, and then it starts up again. An easy fix and much less potentially destructive than jerking the power cord in and out. Never the less, still embarrassing on field day when I'm out with the boys. Does anyone have an idea what might be causing this ? Thanks, TR, WB6TMY K2/100 S/N 838 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 + LP Pan + Microkeyer II
Greetings, Are there any issues I need to be aware of for the setup of my K3 with an LP Pan and a Microkeyer II? I don't claim to be a computer wiz by any stretch but would like to add an LP Pan and a Microkeyer to my K3 setup. My only experience has been in interfacing a Mk-V and a Rigblaster, certainly yesterday's technology. Advice and opinions are appreciated. BTW, my computer is a Core 2 running XP, 4 gig of ram, a good but I forgot who video card, and currently only the onboard soundcard. tnx, Jim W5QM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO B Knob
Hi Dave, I've been using a K2 vfo knob for my K3 B vfo for some months now. The profile of the back of the K2 knob is proper to allow for clearance of the fastening nut on the B encoder shaft. However, the shafts are different diameters. The K2 VFO shaft is slightly smaller so the hole must be enlarged to fit the K3 B vfo shaft. I had a machinist friend do that. (One may be able to do the same on a drill press.) I like the feel of the weighted K2 knob and also use a finger dimple on it. It makes B vfo tuning much easier. The K2 knob does not obscure the B vfo label on the K3. - Original Message - From: David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.com To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 12:14 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K3 VFO B Knob There are times when I'd like to spin the VFO B knob on the K3 a bit more quickly than its small size allows, or do so continuously without ratcheting my wrist. I noticed that the guy who sells adhesive knob dimples also offers a replacement knob with a small crank for the FT-817. http://www.fingerdimple.com/main/page_ft817_kranker.html Anyone out there know if the FT-817 knob is similar in size (outside diameter, shaft diameter) to the knob used for VFO B on the K3? Thanks es 73, Dave AB7E __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
Hi Joe and gang, I found the source of my birdie... ended up being a Linksys 54g wireless router running a custom Linux kernel. The second I unplugged it from the mains, all noise dissipated on the K3. Amazing really that it was so easy to find! Special thanks to Bill W4ISH for pointing me in the right direction. Anyway, any suggestions on isolating my feedline? Would ferrite chokes on the RG-8 work? I can't unplug the router for long periods of time as other machines in my house require a constant network connection. 73, James KC2UEE -Original Message- From: Joe Planisky [mailto:jp...@jeffnet.org] Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 2:01 PM To: KC2UEE Cc: Elecraft list Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question? I find a portable (i.e. battery powered) short wave receiver very useful for tracking down local sources of EMI. When I hear EMI that goes away when I remove the antenna on my K3, I get out my SWL receiver and tune it to the same frequency so I can hear the EMI on it. With the telescoping whip antenna partially extended, I walk around the house, placing the tip of the whip near suspected devices. It's usually very obvious when you find the emitter as the signal rapidly gets louder as you get close. I then make a note in my logbook of the frequency and the offending device so I know exactly which gadget to turn off if the need arises (assuming I can't easily fix the device.) It's a little less disruptive than switching off circuit breakers. 73 -- Joe KB8AP On Mar 4, 2009, at 10:35 AM, KC2UEE wrote: Aha! I think you're on to something here Bill. My RG-8 actually snakes its away around one of my entertainment centers where I happen to have a cable modem, network switch, and seperate wireless router all in the same spot. I have a PS3, Xbox360, and an Onkyo TX- NR905 receiver all wired by CAT-5 into the switch, plus the wireless router also wired into the switch is only a few inches away. The RG-8 runs behind all of that stuff, and if I recall, I simply have the cat5 cable laying loosely around it. There also happens to be several wall-wart transformers behind the entertainment center, which I'm sure aren't helping the situation. When I get home, I'll try and turn off the network devices and see what happens. Like you, I'm also a computer geek hihi. I've got 2 home built PC's, a Mac tower, and 3 laptops floating around the house all networked wirelessly. It never crossed my mind to check the network for EMI... thanks again for the suggestion! 73, James KC2UEE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
James Sarte wrote: Hi Joe and gang, I found the source of my birdie... ended up being a Linksys 54g wireless router running a custom Linux kernel. The second I unplugged it from the mains, all noise dissipated on the K3. Amazing really that it was so easy to find! Special thanks to Bill W4ISH for pointing me in the right direction. Anyway, any suggestions on isolating my feedline? Would ferrite chokes on the RG-8 work? I can't unplug the router for long periods of time as other machines in my house require a constant network connection. The coax may be getting noise from the router and cables on the outside of the braid. This then flows up to the antenna, where it is picked up. A coaxial choke or balun at the antenna end of the coax might help. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
Yes subscribe to r...@contesting.com and search those archives. Routers and switches and hubs are notorious for generating crud. A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may never get over. Ben Franklin -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James Sarte Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 4:58 PM To: 'Joe Planisky'; 'KC2UEE' Cc: 'Elecraft list' Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question? Hi Joe and gang, I found the source of my birdie... ended up being a Linksys 54g wireless router running a custom Linux kernel. The second I unplugged it from the mains, all noise dissipated on the K3. Amazing really that it was so easy to find! Special thanks to Bill W4ISH for pointing me in the right direction. Anyway, any suggestions on isolating my feedline? Would ferrite chokes on the RG-8 work? I can't unplug the router for long periods of time as other machines in my house require a constant network connection. 73, James KC2UEE -Original Message- From: Joe Planisky [mailto:jp...@jeffnet.org] Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 2:01 PM To: KC2UEE Cc: Elecraft list Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question? I find a portable (i.e. battery powered) short wave receiver very useful for tracking down local sources of EMI. When I hear EMI that goes away when I remove the antenna on my K3, I get out my SWL receiver and tune it to the same frequency so I can hear the EMI on it. With the telescoping whip antenna partially extended, I walk around the house, placing the tip of the whip near suspected devices. It's usually very obvious when you find the emitter as the signal rapidly gets louder as you get close. I then make a note in my logbook of the frequency and the offending device so I know exactly which gadget to turn off if the need arises (assuming I can't easily fix the device.) It's a little less disruptive than switching off circuit breakers. 73 -- Joe KB8AP On Mar 4, 2009, at 10:35 AM, KC2UEE wrote: Aha! I think you're on to something here Bill. My RG-8 actually snakes its away around one of my entertainment centers where I happen to have a cable modem, network switch, and seperate wireless router all in the same spot. I have a PS3, Xbox360, and an Onkyo TX- NR905 receiver all wired by CAT-5 into the switch, plus the wireless router also wired into the switch is only a few inches away. The RG-8 runs behind all of that stuff, and if I recall, I simply have the cat5 cable laying loosely around it. There also happens to be several wall-wart transformers behind the entertainment center, which I'm sure aren't helping the situation. When I get home, I'll try and turn off the network devices and see what happens. Like you, I'm also a computer geek hihi. I've got 2 home built PC's, a Mac tower, and 3 laptops floating around the house all networked wirelessly. It never crossed my mind to check the network for EMI... thanks again for the suggestion! 73, James KC2UEE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO B Knob
I was thinking that having a rubberized knob would be helpful. If Elecraft came out with a suitable knob replacement, I'd sure order one. 73, Gary W7TEA David Gilbert wrote: There are times when I'd like to spin the VFO B knob on the K3 a bit more quickly than its small size allows, or do so continuously without ratcheting my wrist. I noticed that the guy who sells adhesive knob dimples also offers a replacement knob with a small crank for the FT-817. http://www.fingerdimple.com/main/page_ft817_kranker.html Anyone out there know if the FT-817 knob is similar in size (outside diameter, shaft diameter) to the knob used for VFO B on the K3? Thanks es 73, Dave AB7E __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-VFO-B-Knob-tp2424889p2426598.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?
I've played around extensively with the cables in the K3 to see what worked best, and as others (including Wayne) have noted, cable positions that minimize one birdie might be poor for another. I'm convinced it also makes a big difference whether or not you have the KRX3 subreceiver installed, and I suspect that some signals are being conducted by the shield of the KRX3 itself. I can short the top of the KRX3 shield to the chassis at its far rear corner (looking from the front of the rig) and cut the strength of several birdies in half. I agree with Ron, though, that routing the cable to J85 on the KRX3 is best done under the mixer board ... that made a large difference on certain birdies without adversely affecting others that I could tell. The other cable that seemed to have a big impact for me is the one going from J2 on the KREF3 board to J83 on the KSYN3 board. Some birdies are weakest when that cable is pressed down closer to the main RF board, but it makes others stronger. Most of the birdies are weaker when that cable is positioned just barely on top of the KRX3 shield ... running along the front corner as closely as possible for as far as possible. I noticed while playing around with that cable that if I held it between the thumb and index finger of each hand that I could almost totally mute certain birdies that were otherwise a solid S-2. So, in an experiment I'm somewhat embarrassed to acknowledge, I placed 4 x 6 sheets of 1/8 inch thick high density conductive anti-static foam inside zip-lock sandwich bags (to avoid shorting anything in the K3) and tried to isolate that and other cables from each other and from various parts of the K3 with what I thought might be lossy shielding at UHF frequencies. Rolling up some of the foam into about a one inch diameter roll and placing it between the cable going to J2 of the KREF3 board and the KREF3 board itself significantly cut several 40m birdies down in strength, but it didn't affect the S-3 one at 7259.48 at all. I abandoned the foam and repositioned the cable along the front edge of the KRX3 shield. One thing I noticed, though, was that the can for the KTCXO (plugged into a socket on the KREF3 board) was extremely sensitive. If I touched it with my finger the strength of the birdies increased dramatically. I assume the can is supposed to provide shielding and is probably grounded via one of its pins, but it sits pretty far off the socket and I'm wondering whether it shouldn't be more effectively bonded to ground. I built a K2 several years ago and if I remember correctly the instructions required that the cans of the crystals be grounded with wires that I soldered to them. I'd be willing to try bonding the can of the KTCXO to ground with some sort of clip if anyone from Elecraft can tell me that I won't ruin something doing so. I've had the chance to beta test the SIG RMV birdie removal software and I find it works very well. I purposely left a half dozen birdies untreated so that I could check out other potential remedies such as the (ahem) conductive foam, but at this point I've gone back and zapped them with SIG RMV and I'm happy with that. My advice to others would be to position the cables as best you can per the descriptions that have been given by others here on the reflector, and then use SIG RMV to finish the job when it becomes universally available. Since SIG RMV alters the frequency of the birdie itself as you tune across it, it totally removes the birdie ... it doesn't just weaken it. It's a very clever piece of engineering. If anyone is interested in seeing my cable routing as a starting point, the links below might help. I make no claim whatsoever that they will work for anyone else. http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee141/xazdave/K3CableRouting1.jpg http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee141/xazdave/K3CableRouting2.jpg 73, Dave AB7E Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I've had the cables all over the place. There seems to be only one cable whose placement has a significant effect on birdies. That's the long (10/25cm)cable running from J84 at the bottom of the Auxiliary KSYN3 board to J85 on the KRX3 RF module. It should be dressed as shown in Figure 47 in the KRX3 manual. In some cases it helps to keep it away from the tiny toriods on the mixer board as well. Either run it across above the mixer board as shown or work it down under the mixer board so it loops up between the mixer board and the front panel shield to J85 on the KRX3 RF module. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ian White GM3SEK Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 12:11 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question? James Sarte wrote: At first I thought I did not have any noticeable birdies, but now it seems that I have developed a few. It's probably
[Elecraft] K3: panel fitment and alignment?
Dear group, While I have all panels securely mounted to the point that I don't have any major issues, I have noted that my top and rear panel alignment has been slightly off. This is in the sense that when securing those particular panels down, the screw holes don't align themselves with the holes drilled in those particular panels. Has anyone else noted such an anomaly, and if so what was the remedy? Now that I have the rig working as expected, I figured I'd just loosen the 2D fasteners on the main board enough to get the holes in the rear and top panels aligned up correctly. 73, James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: panel fitment and alignment?
My guess is that you don't have the 2D fasteners oriented properly. Mine was like this too, but then I flipped a couple of them around and they lined up perfectly. -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James Sarte Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 8:26 PM To: 'Elecraft list' Subject: [Elecraft] K3: panel fitment and alignment? Dear group, While I have all panels securely mounted to the point that I don't have any major issues, I have noted that my top and rear panel alignment has been slightly off. This is in the sense that when securing those particular panels down, the screw holes don't align themselves with the holes drilled in those particular panels. Has anyone else noted such an anomaly, and if so what was the remedy? Now that I have the rig working as expected, I figured I'd just loosen the 2D fasteners on the main board enough to get the holes in the rear and top panels aligned up correctly. 73, James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 + LP Pan + Microkeyer II
Jim, Your LP Pan system should not be connected to, or interact with your MicroKeyer whatsoever. You will need a sound card (or external USB sound unit like the EMU 0202) dedicated to LP-Pan duty. Follow the instructions and you'll be up and running quickly. 73, Bob W5OV -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Hoge Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 3:30 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 + LP Pan + Microkeyer II Greetings, Are there any issues I need to be aware of for the setup of my K3 with an LP Pan and a Microkeyer II? I don't claim to be a computer wiz by any stretch but would like to add an LP Pan and a Microkeyer to my K3 setup. My only experience has been in interfacing a Mk-V and a Rigblaster, certainly yesterday's technology. Advice and opinions are appreciated. BTW, my computer is a Core 2 running XP, 4 gig of ram, a good but I forgot who video card, and currently only the onboard soundcard. tnx, Jim W5QM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 + LP Pan + Microkeyer II
Your LP Pan system should not be connected to, or interact with your MicroKeyer whatsoever. There is one correction ... the LP-Bridge software should connect to the K3 through the CAT virtual port in microHAM Router and all applications (including PowerSDR or HRD) that access the K# CAT interface should connect to ports provided by LP-Bridge. 73, ... Joe, W4TV -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Naumann Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 9:53 PM To: knowk...@sbcglobal.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 + LP Pan + Microkeyer II Jim, Your LP Pan system should not be connected to, or interact with your MicroKeyer whatsoever. You will need a sound card (or external USB sound unit like the EMU 0202) dedicated to LP-Pan duty. Follow the instructions and you'll be up and running quickly. 73, Bob W5OV -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Hoge Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 3:30 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 + LP Pan + Microkeyer II Greetings, Are there any issues I need to be aware of for the setup of my K3 with an LP Pan and a Microkeyer II? I don't claim to be a computer wiz by any stretch but would like to add an LP Pan and a Microkeyer to my K3 setup. My only experience has been in interfacing a Mk-V and a Rigblaster, certainly yesterday's technology. Advice and opinions are appreciated. BTW, my computer is a Core 2 running XP, 4 gig of ram, a good but I forgot who video card, and currently only the onboard soundcard. tnx, Jim W5QM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: panel fitment and alignment?
James: There can be a 'cumulative' fit error sometimes. When I assemble a new K3, I leave all of the screws which attach to the 2D connectors (incl. those going thru the RF board holes), slightly loose until I do the final 'snugging' of everything somewhere toward the end of the main assembly process. This usually helps to minimize any possibility of cumulative fit errors. If you have your K3 all built, try loosening all of the EXTERIOR screws which go into a 2D connector, and then retighten them. Good luck, Tom Hammond N0SS At 20:25 03/04/2009, you wrote: Dear group, While I have all panels securely mounted to the point that I don't have any major issues, I have noted that my top and rear panel alignment has been slightly off. This is in the sense that when securing those particular panels down, the screw holes don't align themselves with the holes drilled in those particular panels. Has anyone else noted such an anomaly, and if so what was the remedy? Now that I have the rig working as expected, I figured I'd just loosen the 2D fasteners on the main board enough to get the holes in the rear and top panels aligned up correctly. 73, James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Control board U4 8v regulator issueSolved problem
I want to thank all you people for the tips, mods suggestions that you emailed direct. Much appreciated. The radio is testing 100% now with the new used regulator which puts out 8.30v. I saved the original 7.61v regulator along with the mod procedure to make it work if I need to. A shame the regulator manufacturer sells a 8v regulator that is barely at the minimum end of it's spec's, but it is good that the K2 can be modified to work with the lower voltage regulator if need be. Now onto stuffing the other components into the RF board... Mike WE0H __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: panel fitment and alignment?
Thanks Tom, will give that a try this weekend; perhaps after the LIMARC hamfest this Sunday. I've taken my rig apart about 4 times already during the course of troubleshooting, and don't have any real desire to do it again after getting everything working, but I guess I'm a perfectionist, and will have to get these minor things worked out as well. 73, James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS) -Original Message- From: Tom Hammond [mailto:n...@embarqmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 10:20 PM To: James Sarte; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: panel fitment and alignment? James: There can be a 'cumulative' fit error sometimes. When I assemble a new K3, I leave all of the screws which attach to the 2D connectors (incl. those going thru the RF board holes), slightly loose until I do the final 'snugging' of everything somewhere toward the end of the main assembly process. This usually helps to minimize any possibility of cumulative fit errors. If you have your K3 all built, try loosening all of the EXTERIOR screws which go into a 2D connector, and then retighten them. Good luck, Tom Hammond N0SS At 20:25 03/04/2009, you wrote: Dear group, While I have all panels securely mounted to the point that I don't have any major issues, I have noted that my top and rear panel alignment has been slightly off. This is in the sense that when securing those particular panels down, the screw holes don't align themselves with the holes drilled in those particular panels. Has anyone else noted such an anomaly, and if so what was the remedy? Now that I have the rig working as expected, I figured I'd just loosen the 2D fasteners on the main board enough to get the holes in the rear and top panels aligned up correctly. 73, James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO B Knob
The diameter of the FT-817 knob is about 13/16. The mounting hole is slightly smaller than the K3 vfo b knob but could probably be carefully drilled out and made to fit. 73, Tony, W7GO Erik N Basilier wrote: Neal, I am also interested. Is the K2 knob covered by rubber, like the main K3 knob? 73, Erik K7TV - Original Message - From: Neal wir...@prodigy.net To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 1:35 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO B Knob Dave, I no longer have an 817, but I can tell you that the knob was definitely smaller than the K3 VFO B knob. In fact, I increased the size of it by installing a rubber crutch tip. :-) You might consider a K2 knob. It will hang a little low, but other than that it should clear everything else. The K2 knob is 1.5 in diameter. I put one on my K1. 73, Neal WA6OCP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K3] K3 FM Repeater
I have K3 #1644 with all hardware mods except the negative ALC and firmware 2.82. We have a local 6 meter repeater that I can hit from my house with my handheld on a J-Pole or via my car with an IC-7000. The repeater frequency is 52.900 with a -500 offset for transmit on 52.400 and the CTSS tone is 114.8. For some reason, my K3 will not trip the repeater, but will trip other repeaters in the area when set to their attributes. I've monitored my output signal on my Yaeseu VX7 and verified that I am indeed transmitting on the correct frequency and I have engaged and disengage tone squelch on the VX7 to see if the correct CTSS tone is being transmitted. This appears correct. I spoke with another indivdual on our 2M repeater and he is experiencing the same thing with a commercial radio converted to 6M. Are there any thoughts as to what the attribute of the K3 or the repeater is that is not allowing the K3 to function properly on this repeater? 73, Jim - W6VAR K3# 1644 -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-FM-Repeater-tp2427744p2427744.html Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
