[Elecraft] K2: KB2GSD - Silent Key

[David Pratt]

I was sorry to learn on the news this morning that Walter Cronkite 
KB2GSD is now a Silent Key at the age of 92.  I recall seeing him on an 
ARRL video operating an Elecraft K2 promoting Amateur Radio.

"And that's the way it (was)" :-(

73
-- 
David G4DMP
Leeds, England, UK
--


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Re: [Elecraft] BFO on wrong sideband?

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

That is great.  Now enjoy that K2.

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom Campie wrote:
> That did it Don!  I did in fact have the CW filters on the wrong side  
> of the band...should have looked in the manual to see where the  
> frequencies were supposed to be.  I think I'm within about 5 to 10 Hz  
> of WWV and the ARRL practice is coming in right on my sidetone freq.   
> Now its time for some major contacts!
>
> Thanks for the help. 73
>
> Tom W0EA
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] BFO on wrong sideband?

[Tom Campie]

That did it Don!  I did in fact have the CW filters on the wrong side  
of the band...should have looked in the manual to see where the  
frequencies were supposed to be.  I think I'm within about 5 to 10 Hz  
of WWV and the ARRL practice is coming in right on my sidetone freq.   
Now its time for some major contacts!

Thanks for the help. 73

Tom W0EA


On Jul 17, 2009, at 10:13 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Tom,
>
> Go to my website www.w3fpr.com and study the article on K2 Dial  
> Calibration.  Part 3 of that article deals with setting the K2  
> filters.  If you are not familiar with the use of Spectrogram for  
> setting the K2 filters, I strongly suggest that you become familiar  
> with it.  Once you have used Spectrogram for that task once, doing  
> it a second time is like "falling off a log".  Your K2 performance  
> will be much better for the effort, and your ears will thank you.
>
> Yes, it is easy to get the BFOs on the wrong sideband by accident.   
> Tune to a band below 15 meters when setting the filters - 40 meters  
> is recommended for consistency, but others will do.  There is a  
> sideband reversal that takes place at 15 meters and higher, and  
> using those bands for setting the filters will only cause confusion  
> and the resulting frustrations that accompany such confusion.
> To prevent having the BFO on the wrong sideband, remember that the  
> CW filter BFO frequencies (and/or DAC values) must be lower than the  
> CWr BFO frequencies.  Normal CW BFOs will have a frequency in the  
> 4912.8 to 4913.5 kHz range while the CWr BFO frequencies will be in  
> the 4914.2 to 4915.5 kHz range.
>
> Likewise, the SSB USB BFO frequencies will be higher than LSB and  
> the RTTYr BFOs will be higher than the RTTY BFOs.
>
> Do these things in order.
> 1) Set the 4 MHz oscillator - use Wayne Burdick's (N6KR) method and  
> view the 500 and 600 Hz tones transmitted by WWV on the Spectrogram  
> display to be certain you have tuned WWV correctly (the K2 should be  
> in LSB or USB mode).  Then enter the menu for CAL FCTR  and  
> alternate the internal counter probe between TP2 and TP1 while  
> adjusting C22 - you are looking for the point where the lower order  
> digits on the display are the same at both points.  The frequency at  
> TP1 moves about 5 times faster than at TP2, so when doing the  
> adjustment of C22, put the probe in TP1 - it is just easier that way.
> 2) Run CAL PLL (remember to put the probe in TP1 and the band to 40  
> meters).
> 3) Now put a noise source on the K2 antenna input and adjust the BFO  
> frequencies (CAL FIL) to place the filter passband at the desired  
> frequency on the Spectrogram display.  Do that for *all* BFOs.  If  
> the passband position is already correct, move it up a notch and  
> then back to the original - that will tell the K2 that the BFO has  
> been changed and it will write new EEPROM values based on the new 4  
> MHz oscillator frequency, and that is exactly what you want to  
> accomplish.
>
> When you are done, check the tuning of WWV - it should be within 20  
> Hz which is the DAC limit or the K2 (look at the tones transmitted  
> by WWV to verify)
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Tom Campie wrote:
>> I just got my K2 used and I went through and adjusted the CW  
>> filters  because I like mine lower than the previous owner but i  
>> have  a  feeling I botched it up - I'm zero beat to the ARRL at  
>> 14.046.84, and  they transmit on 14.047.5 MHz.I also tried re- 
>> aligning the VFO  based on a zero beat on WWWV so I'm not sure  
>> where I'm wrong.  Please  help!
>>
>> Tom W0EA
>>

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Re: [Elecraft] BFO on wrong sideband?

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

Go to my website www.w3fpr.com and study the article on K2 Dial 
Calibration.  Part 3 of that article deals with setting the K2 filters.  
If you are not familiar with the use of Spectrogram for setting the K2 
filters, I strongly suggest that you become familiar with it.  Once you 
have used Spectrogram for that task once, doing it a second time is like 
"falling off a log".  Your K2 performance will be much better for the 
effort, and your ears will thank you.

Yes, it is easy to get the BFOs on the wrong sideband by accident.  Tune 
to a band below 15 meters when setting the filters - 40 meters is 
recommended for consistency, but others will do.  There is a sideband 
reversal that takes place at 15 meters and higher, and using those bands 
for setting the filters will only cause confusion and the resulting 
frustrations that accompany such confusion.
To prevent having the BFO on the wrong sideband, remember that the CW 
filter BFO frequencies (and/or DAC values) must be lower than the CWr 
BFO frequencies.  Normal CW BFOs will have a frequency in the 4912.8 to 
4913.5 kHz range while the CWr BFO frequencies will be in the 4914.2 to 
4915.5 kHz range.

Likewise, the SSB USB BFO frequencies will be higher than LSB and the 
RTTYr BFOs will be higher than the RTTY BFOs.

Do these things in order.
1) Set the 4 MHz oscillator - use Wayne Burdick's (N6KR) method and view 
the 500 and 600 Hz tones transmitted by WWV on the Spectrogram display 
to be certain you have tuned WWV correctly (the K2 should be in LSB or 
USB mode).  Then enter the menu for CAL FCTR  and alternate the internal 
counter probe between TP2 and TP1 while adjusting C22 - you are looking 
for the point where the lower order digits on the display are the same 
at both points.  The frequency at TP1 moves about 5 times faster than at 
TP2, so when doing the adjustment of C22, put the probe in TP1 - it is 
just easier that way.
2) Run CAL PLL (remember to put the probe in TP1 and the band to 40 meters).
3) Now put a noise source on the K2 antenna input and adjust the BFO 
frequencies (CAL FIL) to place the filter passband at the desired 
frequency on the Spectrogram display.  Do that for *all* BFOs.  If the 
passband position is already correct, move it up a notch and then back 
to the original - that will tell the K2 that the BFO has been changed 
and it will write new EEPROM values based on the new 4 MHz oscillator 
frequency, and that is exactly what you want to accomplish.

When you are done, check the tuning of WWV - it should be within 20 Hz 
which is the DAC limit or the K2 (look at the tones transmitted by WWV 
to verify)

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom Campie wrote:
> I just got my K2 used and I went through and adjusted the CW filters  
> because I like mine lower than the previous owner but i have  a  
> feeling I botched it up - I'm zero beat to the ARRL at 14.046.84, and  
> they transmit on 14.047.5 MHz.I also tried re-aligning the VFO  
> based on a zero beat on WWWV so I'm not sure where I'm wrong.  Please  
> help!
>
> Tom W0EA
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and N1MM

[Richard Ferch]

Brett Howard asked:

> Is there a way to use the internal keyer in the K3 with N1MM or do you
> have to use the DTR/RTS in the key jack method?

N1MM Logger does not support the KY software command that makes use of 
the K3's internal tuner. I believe there are implementation reasons for 
this limitation, in which case it might not be an easy limitation to remove.

You can use:
- DTR or RTS on the radio control port without any additional hardware 
(with some limitations that are described in the N1MM Logger 
documentation);
- DTR or RTS on any other serial port with a keying transistor to the 
K3's key jack; or
- parallel port keying to the K3's key jack (I don't know whether this 
can be made to work under Linux, though - it requires the DLPORTIO 
driver under WinXP).
All of these can be affected by Windows timing problems.

The standard recommended solution is the WKUSB (or a serial WinKeyer), 
which unfortunately requires an extra box.

73,
Rich VE3KI
K3 #1595
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[Elecraft] BFO on wrong sideband?

[Tom Campie]

I just got my K2 used and I went through and adjusted the CW filters  
because I like mine lower than the previous owner but i have  a  
feeling I botched it up - I'm zero beat to the ARRL at 14.046.84, and  
they transmit on 14.047.5 MHz.I also tried re-aligning the VFO  
based on a zero beat on WWWV so I'm not sure where I'm wrong.  Please  
help!

Tom W0EA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and N1MM

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

> Is there a way to use the internal keyer in the K3 with N1MM 
> or do you have to use the DTR/RTS in the key jack method. 

You can use the internal keyer with paddles but N1MM Logger 
does not support the "KS;" keyer command for sending arbitrary 
text.  If your messages were less than 24 characters, you 
could probably finesse the thing by using {CATASC ...} commands 
to send short strings or to recall the K3's built in memories. 

> Or should I go and buy this lil kit: 
> http://k1el.tripod.com/WKUSB.html 

The K1EL WKUSB or Serial WinKeyer 2: 
  http://k1el.tripod.com/WK2Serial.html
are the best way to handle CW with any software package 
that includes WinKey support.  You get CPU independent 
CW plus paddle input that integrates with the software 
(much like paddle input was integrated with TRlog). 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Brett Howard
> Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 9:45 PM
> To: Richard Meilstrup
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and N1MM
> 
> 
> Is there a way to use the internal keyer in the K3 with N1MM 
> or do you have to use the DTR/RTS in the key jack method.  I 
> run windows in a virtual machine under linux which makes the 
> Windows timing even more grossly disgusting for keying.  It 
> certainly seems like the K3s keyer should be able to work a 
> lot like a win keyer and just have everything in one box but 
> I've been unable to pull it off.  Not sure if its a problem 
> with the virtual machine setup or what...
> 
> So should I be able to get that to work fairly easily if I 
> wasn't running the virtual machine?  If so I just need to 
> know that and I'll find the problem in the UART passthrough 
> in Linux...  Or should I go and buy this lil kit: 
> http://k1el.tripod.com/WKUSB.html
> 
> (or is there a better kit that I should be looking at?)
> 
> ~Brett
> 
> On Fri, 2009-07-17 at 19:52 +0200, Richard Meilstrup wrote:
> > Thanks a lot to N6ML, N0SS, and N4XD for advice. I have now N1MM 
> > running beautifully on CW, and the same goes for the CW-machine in 
> > Logger32. Rick, OZ5RM 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and N1MM

[Brett Howard]

Is there a way to use the internal keyer in the K3 with N1MM or do you
have to use the DTR/RTS in the key jack method.  I run windows in a
virtual machine under linux which makes the Windows timing even more
grossly disgusting for keying.  It certainly seems like the K3s keyer
should be able to work a lot like a win keyer and just have everything
in one box but I've been unable to pull it off.  Not sure if its a
problem with the virtual machine setup or what...

So should I be able to get that to work fairly easily if I wasn't
running the virtual machine?  If so I just need to know that and I'll
find the problem in the UART passthrough in Linux...  Or should I go and
buy this lil kit:
http://k1el.tripod.com/WKUSB.html

(or is there a better kit that I should be looking at?)

~Brett

On Fri, 2009-07-17 at 19:52 +0200, Richard Meilstrup wrote:
> Thanks a lot to N6ML, N0SS, and N4XD for advice. I have now N1MM running
> beautifully on CW, and the same goes for the CW-machine in Logger32.
> Rick, OZ5RM
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Re: [Elecraft] K3

[David Cutter]

For a tripod I've used a small, inverted rotary washing line.  These come 
complete with quite a lot of very strong rope and a packing bag.  Remove the 
rope to use as guys for other, larger antenna systems.  3mm poly cord is 
easily strong enough to guy a fishing pole using tent pegs.  You might also 
look at loudspeaker stands.  To stabilise them, I've used a bucket full of 
rocks hung from the centre.

A lighter weight solution I've used is a hinge arrangement with a spike 
pressed into the ground all made from 15mm copper plumbing pipe.  This is 
assembled to a plastic pipe into which the fishing pole is positioned. 
Makes for a tidy all-in-one support.  Photos on request.

David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: "Paul Christensen" 
To: "'Elecraft_List'" 
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3


>> Can someone recommend a portable push up pole that I can use for the
>> center
>> insulator and then come down in an inverted V  Thanks Phil
>
> I have an interest in a well-designed telescoping pole as well, preferably
> 20-25 ft on a stable tripod.
>
> In thinking this through for a while, I've also decided on an inverted "V"
> for field use.  The Vee will be fed with 300-ohm ladder line and line 
> length
> will be adjusted pursuant to W5DXP's data to present a near 1:1 VSWR on 
> all
> bands from 40m-10m
>
> http://www.w5dxp.com/notuner.htm
>
> In doing so, I've decided to prepare pre-cut line lengths with banana plug
> connections in lengths of 16', 8', 4', 2', and 1'.   Changing line length
> does not change the 300-ohm VSWR, but it radically affects the end-of-line 
> Z
> and the 50-ohm VSWR.  And so, by manipulating these five plug-in line
> sections, a near 1:1 50-ohm VSWR is possible without a tuner and system
> losses are minimized.  A 1:1 current balun will form the transition 
> between
> the switched ladder line sections and coax.
>
> I thought about using the Budidipole system or one of its variants, and
> finally decided that I could attain better 40m-10m efficiency in the field
> by (1) changing line length; and (2) using a trap-less half-wave antenna
> length on the lowest frequency -- and make simple "plug-in" changes on the
> ground rather than by changing taps up on a telescoping mast.  Moreover,
> since there's a need to tether a 20-25 ft. telescoping mast anyway, it 
> makes
> sense to use the Vee as two of the three guys.
>
> Paul, W9AC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Collins Filters for the K3???

[Doug Shields]

   I saw this ad and was highly suspicious.  It also says that his K3 has
the new 2 meter module.  As far as I know that option is not even shipping
yet.  Those two red flags made me think something was wrong here.  I hope
not, but I would be very cautious before sending any money for this K3.

Doug  W4DAS

"FOR SALE: Elecraft K3/100 fully loaded. Includes the new 2 meter module and
the better collins filters. It does not have the extra receiver but does
have the general coverage . After 4 Pm eastern and weekends. "  Sellers name
removed.

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[Elecraft] tuner F / S

[Scott McDowell]

The tuner has been sold.

N5SM


  

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[Elecraft] K3 144 MHz When availiable!

[Phil LaMarche]

My beam is up and today the 10 watts in, 160 watts out amplifier arrived and
I'm anxious to get on 2 for those occasional openings.  Antenna is at 85 ft.
Everyone have a wonderful weekend and TGIF.
 
Phil
 

Philip LaMarche 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
  www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com   
800-395-7795 pin 02 
727-944-3226 
FAX 727-937-8834 
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605

CCA 98  00827
CRA 1701

W9DVM 


 
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[Elecraft] antenna tuner f/ s

[Scott McDowell]

The antenna tuner has been sold.

n5sm


  

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Re: [Elecraft] Collins Filters for the K3???

[Wes Stewart]

I suspect a slip of the tongue.

Why you would want Collins filters (which you can't have for the K3 i-f) 
instead of Inrads is puzzling.  Can you explain?

WG6H wrote
> 
> I just spotted an ad on QTH.com for a K3 with "the better
> collins filters".
>  
> Can this be true or just hype?  I am only aware of filters
> from Elecraft or direct from  Inrad.
>  
> I frankly would love to have Collins filters rather than
> the Inrads.  Anyone know about this?
>  
> Thanks & 73, 
> Bill  - K6WLM




  
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Re: [Elecraft] Collins Filters for the K3???

[WILLIS COOKE]

I don't think the Collins filters will work because they are 455 KHz.  He 
probably has Inrad 8 pole rather than Elecraft 5 pole filters.  

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ


--- On Fri, 7/17/09, w...@yahoo.com  wrote:

> From: w...@yahoo.com 
> Subject: [Elecraft] Collins Filters for the K3???
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Date: Friday, July 17, 2009, 11:28 AM
> 
> I just spotted an ad on QTH.com for a K3 with "the better
> collins filters".
>  
> Can this be true or just hype?  I am only aware of filters
> from Elecraft or direct from  Inrad.
>  
> I frankly would love to have Collins filters rather than
> the Inrads.  Anyone know about this?
>  
> Thanks & 73, 
> Bill  - K6WLM
>  
> KX1
> K2
> K3/100
> 
> 
>       
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Re: [Elecraft] Collins Filters for the K3???

[Mark Bayern]

better? Collins?  Maybe he has the (Inrad) 8pole filters, and thinks they
are better.
If anyone has put Collins filters in the K3 they haven't made much
noise about it on
the mailing list. Wonder what the center freq of the filter was? I thought
most old Collins stuff used 455Kcs as the IF frequency.

Mark  AD5SS
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[Elecraft] Collins Filters for the K3???

[wg6h]

I just spotted an ad on QTH.com for a K3 with "the better collins filters".
 
Can this be true or just hype?  I am only aware of filters from Elecraft or 
direct from  Inrad.
 
I frankly would love to have Collins filters rather than the Inrads.  Anyone 
know about this?
 
Thanks & 73, 
Bill  - K6WLM
 
KX1
K2
K3/100


  
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[Elecraft] K3 and N1MM

[Richard Meilstrup]

Thanks a lot to N6ML, N0SS, and N4XD for advice. I have now N1MM running
beautifully on CW, and the same goes for the CW-machine in Logger32.
Rick, OZ5RM
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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM and K3

[Greg - AB7R]

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Re: [Elecraft] K3

[David Y.]

Hi Paul and All,

I would suggest you take a look at the tripod/mast combination that Vern 
Wright, W6MMA sells.  I used this several times now to erect the portable 
beam Vern also sells.  The tripod is quite stable, but still one set of guys 
is almost a must, since any amount of wind will play havoc with an 
installation like this.  With an inverted vee attached, you probably 
wouldn't need guys, but again it's better to have some way of stabilizing 
everything.

Last winter, at the Quartzsite, AZ hamfest, Vern and I both had an 
installation set up like the one you see in the picture in the link I have 
given you below.  I think you know Vern, and if you do, you know he is 
"famous" for fabricating some really neat, quality stuff.  The tripod/mast 
combination is no exception.  It is far superior to the similar combination 
sold by the Buddipole folks.  The tripod is actually intended to be used 
with heavy lighting equipment, so it is really stout.  Vern mated this with 
a mast arrangement he has modified to get to the 20 foot plus height.  It 
all erects quickly, and attaching guy lines is a breeze using a simple "O" 
ring.  See the link below.

http://www.superantennas.com/html/21_foot_mast.html

For inverted vee setups in a portable situation, I still like the Wonderpole 
the best of all the collapsible poles (www.wonderpole.com).  I have used one 
of these for several years now, and I think it is a great thing to have. 
The pricetag ($250) scares a lot of people off, but this is a 40 ft. pole 
with a lot of substance.  A couple of friends of mine here locally ordered 
one immediately after they saw mine, and saw how solid it is.  The top 
section is still 3/4 inch in diameter, but everything collapses down to an 8 
ft. package.  I have several of the fishing/kite poles, and they work O.K. 
too, but they are very skimpy at the top.  The best of those types is the 
one sold by Jackite, as it has a much more substantive top section, although 
it's nowhere close to the Wonderpole.  These go up to just over 30 feet, but 
with the all of these have, you are only getting about 25 feet up at best. 
The Wonderpole has some flex too, but not nearly as severe, and it can 
easily be stabilized with 3 string guys to preserve it's height.  Getting 
the extra 10 or 15 feet may seem expensive, but the Wonderpole is extremely 
solid, and will probably last forever.  It's really tough!

I guess while I'm at it, I will describe one other option.  At Dayton a 
couple of years back, there was a guy selling collapsible aluminum flagpoles 
out in the swap area.  One of them extends to 25 feet.  This uses pushbutton 
locks for each section, and is very solid.  I picked mine up for $200, and 
it gives me a lot of options.  Both this pole, and my Wonderpole, fit nicely 
into a gadget I picked up at one of the RV shows, which slides into my 
trailer hitch.  That really provides all the support I need for it, 
depending on what I put on top.  This pole is an excellent alternative to 
Vern's tripod/mast combo.  The beam mounts nicely on top, and everything is 
pretty stable just that easily.  I've used small guys though, just as 
additional caution.

With this combination of masts, I can put up beams for HF, VHF, etc., and a 
good dipole or inverted vee using the Wonderpole.  The flagpole and trailer 
hitch support makes a perfect tool for VHF roving if you are into that kind 
of thing.  I can probably send you pictures of any, or all, of this stuff if 
you are really interested.

Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "Paul Christensen" 
To: "'Elecraft_List'" 
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 8:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3


>> Can someone recommend a portable push up pole that I can use for the
>> center
>> insulator and then come down in an inverted V  Thanks Phil
>
> I have an interest in a well-designed telescoping pole as well, preferably
> 20-25 ft on a stable tripod.
>
> In thinking this through for a while, I've also decided on an inverted "V"
> for field use.  The Vee will be fed with 300-ohm ladder line and line 
> length
> will be adjusted pursuant to W5DXP's data to present a near 1:1 VSWR on 
> all
> bands from 40m-10m
>
> http://www.w5dxp.com/notuner.htm
>
> In doing so, I've decided to prepare pre-cut line lengths with banana plug
> connections in lengths of 16', 8', 4', 2', and 1'.   Changing line length
> does not change the 300-ohm VSWR, but it radically affects the end-of-line 
> Z
> and the 50-ohm VSWR.  And so, by manipulating these five plug-in line
> sections, a near 1:1 50-ohm VSWR is possible without a tuner and system
> losses are minimized.  A 1:1 current balun will form the transition 
> between
> the switched ladder line sections and coax.
>
> I thought about using the Budidipole system or one of its variants, and
> finally decided that I could attain better 40m-10m efficiency in the field
> by (1) changing line length; and (2) using a trap-less half-wave antenna
> length on the lowest f

Re: [Elecraft] N1MM and K3

[Fred Jensen]

Richard Meilstrup wrote:
> I need som advice to get my new K3 and N1MM work properly.  Only problem
> left is this:  *I cannot make N!MM key the K3*. My PC (XP) has serial ports
> and I use one of them. Will somebody out there tell me what to do?
> Rick, OZ5RM
> 

I don't have my K3 right now [in the Elecraft shop], but there is a menu 
item [CONFIG:RS232?] where you can select DTR and RTS for PTT and CW 
keying. Pick your choice, write it down, then go to N1MM and in the 
Configure menu item, choose the top one [Ports].  Select the COM port 
you're using, check CW, and put the DTR/RTS settings in the appropriate 
fields.  Works like a champ.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2009 Cal QSO Party  3-4 Oct 2009
- www.cqp.org
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[Elecraft] OT posts

[Ron Spencer]

 In the most recent digest version of the reflector I counted 10 of the 48
posts as having nothing to do with Elecraft. Can we please, please keep this
reflector focused on Elecraft? An example is the doublet string that went on
forever and had nothing to do with Elecraft. I understand some general
questions may come up and if they do how about responding directly to the
poster and sparing the rest of us? And please, don't respond on the
reflector to this as it will just add to the "spam". Feel free to respond
directly to me.

73  Ron   N4XD

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[Elecraft] My doublet config

[dw]

Don is right.
I should have given the lenghts in the first place.

COAX FROM K2: 40' RG-213
goes to
SGC-AUTO-TUNER-EXTERNALY MOUNTED ( I can't remember the model but its
the beefier 100watt model)
goes to
Balun 1:1 5kW rating
goes to
450 Ladder line 65'
goes to
TOP: 135'
UP: 45'

Tunes in 3 seconds all bands with 20 watts applied.
Duane
N1BBR


Please pass along the length and type of your feedline when making 
statements of the effectiveness and ease of tuning for your antenna.  
With a resonant halfwave dipole fed with coax (or any line matched to 
the antenna impedance), the feedline length is not important, but most 
multiband antennas are not like that and the feedline length is a very 
important parameter.
Don
-- 
 bw...@fastmail.net

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Re: [Elecraft] why the T-match tuner

[dw]

Hi David,
I know a little about this.
The T-match provided manufactures with a way to get more impedance
matching range out of fewer components in the box.  Its basically a
step-up/step-down matching network.  Its marketing value is added
versatilityhence the "versa"-tuner became quite popular.

Most auto-tuners are L-networks.  

The MJF-balanced tuner actualy puts the caps in series, so its kind of a
double T-network, and very effective for wide-range tuning needs, from
what I hear.
It uses a 15" long coax lenght with beads as a choke to minimize RF from
the coax shield.

The L-network and T-network are both unbalanced configurations.

The Johnson box was a balanced configuration, and was superseded, for
the most part when baluns started to be put into unbalanced tuners to
convert the unbalanced to balanced condition.  The J-box was an awesome
balanced tuner, but with a limited matching range.  Many hams in the
days of the J-box operated only on one or two bands, which the J-box
easily facilitated.
Duane
N1BBR



Can anyone point to why the single coil Z match wasn't commercialized
rather than the T match?  (Perhaps it's a historical thing and
manufacturers just copy each other, notwithstanding the Johnson Matchbox
of course, which is no longer produced.)
David
-- 
 bw...@fastmail.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 knob on a K2

[Dave Sergeant]

On 17 Jul 2009 at 12:17, Jon Perelstein wrote:

> I've seen a number of posts about using K3 knobs on K2s or K2 knobs on
> K1s to get finger dimples.  People seem to be trying to go through a lot
> of complicated stuff to get the dimples.

Another little tip on the K2 knob (which I remember posting on here a 
long time ago but worth repeating).

I had a continual problem with my K2 knob in that the black paint on it 
rubbed off leaving the silver metal showing through, making it look 
horrible. I had various tries with car touch-up paint, which made it 
look even worse.

One day I was looking through a box of old electrolytic capacitors, of 
the mains smoothing type. I noticed some which had a circular black 
piece of plastic on their top about the size of the K2 knob. I cut it 
out from the capacitor and stuck it on the face of the knob with double 
sided tape. Superb, and still doing the job a couple of years later.

I suppose I could also add one of the dimples, but personally I have 
never found the lack of one a problem.

73 Dave G3YMC
K2 #2498

http://www.davesergeant.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3

[Grant Youngman]

There seem to be a lot of choices.  Also look at Max-Gain 
(http://www.mgs4u.com/index.html 
).  Wide range of options, reasonably priced, high quality stuff.
You can custom configure a mast, if you want a stouter than normal top  
section.

Grant/NQ5T


On Jul 17, 2009, at 10:57 AM, Paul Christensen wrote:

>> Can someone recommend a portable push up pole that I can use for the
>> center
>> insulator and then come down in an inverted V  Thanks Phil
>

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[Elecraft] K3 Antenna

[Phil LaMarche]

I want to thank everyone for their ideas and it has solved my problem.  I'll
be on portable in the Mountains in the fall.
 
Phil
 

Philip LaMarche 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
  www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com   
800-395-7795 pin 02 
727-944-3226 
FAX 727-937-8834 
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605

CCA 98  00827
CRA 1701

W9DVM 


 
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[Elecraft] Push Pole for Mystery Antenna

[WILLIS COOKE]

I bought a 40 ft fiberglass push pole that seemed just the thing for my 
Carolina Windom.  I planned a support bracket at 12 feet and guys at higher 
levels.  This turned out to be an expensive mistake.  It was so limber that I 
could not get the Carolina Windom installed.  I replaced it with four sections 
of 2-inch PVC Conduit using the same support (a section of Uni-Strut across the 
roof peak) and three sets of guys.  It is not easy to erect for one person 
either, but possible if you are fairly strong.  A thirty foot mast would be 
pretty easy.

If this interests anyone please contact me for more details.  I don't know how 
much general interest  exists here.

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 knob on a K2

[Jon Perelstein]

I've seen a number of posts about using K3 knobs on K2s or K2 knobs on K1s
to get finger dimples.  People seem to be trying to go through a lot of
complicated stuff to get the dimples.

 

Elecraft sells stick-on dimples for the K1 and K2 tuning knobs.  They're $6
per, and they are part number FDIMP

 

http://www.elecraft.com/accessories/fingerdimple.htm

 

I bought one with my K2 and I also retrofitted one onto my K1.  They work
beautifully.  Just make sure you follow the directions and clean the knob
with rubbing alcohol before sticking the dimple onto the knob (let the
rubbing alcohol dry).  Mine have been sticking without problem for just
under a year now.

 

Jon, KB1QBZ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Phil, 

One source: www.spiderbeam.us/index.php?cat=c2_Fiberglass%20Poles.html 

For a wire antenna I'd probably skip the top couple of sections since 
the smallest one is 8 mm (~ 5/16") diameter but you'd still get about 
32' using the bottom 10 sections of the 40' pole.  Get the clamp kit 
to keep the pole from collapsing. 

Another option is the MFJ-1906 (32'): 
  www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-1906

If you were going to "push up" either pole, you would need a solid 
base to be able to extend one section at a time.

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil LaMarche
> Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 11:24 AM
> To: 'Elecraft_List'
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3
> 
> 
> I'll be using a W5GI mystery antenna for my vacation in North 
> Carolina.  Can someone recommend a portable push up pole that 
> I can use for the center insulator and then come down in an 
> inverted V  Thanks
>  
> Phil
>  
> 
> Philip LaMarche 
> LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.  
>  www.instantgourmetspices.com
> 
> www.w9dvm.com   
> 800-395-7795 pin 02 
> 727-944-3226 
> FAX 727-937-8834 
> NASFT 30210 
> 
> K3  #1605
> 
> CCA 98  00827
> CRA 1701
> 
> W9DVM 
> 
> 
>  
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3

[Don Wilhelm]

Phil,

Check out the telescoping masts at www.tmastco.com.  I have the 32 ft. 
heavy duty pole and use it for hanging an inverted V antenna.  The tip 
is heavy enough so you can realize the full height potential (unlike 
some other 'wimpy' poles.  Of course, if extreme lightweight is part of 
the criteria, you might want ot consider one of the lighter weight poles.

73,
Don W3FPR

Phil LaMarche wrote:
> I'll be using a W5GI mystery antenna for my vacation in North Carolina.  Can
> someone recommend a portable push up pole that I can use for the center
> insulator and then come down in an inverted V  Thanks
>  
> Phil
>  
>
> Philip LaMarche 
> LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
>   www.instantgourmetspices.com
>
> www.w9dvm.com   
> 800-395-7795 pin 02 
> 727-944-3226 
> FAX 727-937-8834 
> NASFT 30210 
>
> K3  #1605
>
> CCA 98  00827
> CRA 1701
>
> W9DVM 
>
>
>  
> __
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> 
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.18/2243 - Release Date: 07/17/09 
> 06:08:00
>
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3

[Paul Christensen]

> Can someone recommend a portable push up pole that I can use for the 
> center
> insulator and then come down in an inverted V  Thanks Phil

I have an interest in a well-designed telescoping pole as well, preferably 
20-25 ft on a stable tripod.

In thinking this through for a while, I've also decided on an inverted "V" 
for field use.  The Vee will be fed with 300-ohm ladder line and line length 
will be adjusted pursuant to W5DXP's data to present a near 1:1 VSWR on all 
bands from 40m-10m

http://www.w5dxp.com/notuner.htm

In doing so, I've decided to prepare pre-cut line lengths with banana plug 
connections in lengths of 16', 8', 4', 2', and 1'.   Changing line length 
does not change the 300-ohm VSWR, but it radically affects the end-of-line Z 
and the 50-ohm VSWR.  And so, by manipulating these five plug-in line 
sections, a near 1:1 50-ohm VSWR is possible without a tuner and system 
losses are minimized.  A 1:1 current balun will form the transition between 
the switched ladder line sections and coax.

I thought about using the Budidipole system or one of its variants, and 
finally decided that I could attain better 40m-10m efficiency in the field 
by (1) changing line length; and (2) using a trap-less half-wave antenna 
length on the lowest frequency -- and make simple "plug-in" changes on the 
ground rather than by changing taps up on a telescoping mast.  Moreover, 
since there's a need to tether a 20-25 ft. telescoping mast anyway, it makes 
sense to use the Vee as two of the three guys.

Paul, W9AC
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3

[Frank Ross W4NHJ]

Not a push up mast, but inexpensive. 
http://www.freewebs.com/workingstiff/pgtwoofmastchoices.htm

Frank - W4NHJ

- Original Message - 
From: "Phil LaMarche" 
To: "'Elecraft_List'" 
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 11:24 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3


> I'll be using a W5GI mystery antenna for my vacation in North Carolina. 
> Can
> someone recommend a portable push up pole that I can use for the center
> insulator and then come down in an inverted V  Thanks
>
> Phil
>
>
> Philip LaMarche
> LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
>  www.instantgourmetspices.com
>
> www.w9dvm.com 
> 800-395-7795 pin 02
> 727-944-3226
> FAX 727-937-8834
> NASFT 30210
>
> K3  #1605
>
> CCA 98  00827
> CRA 1701
>
> W9DVM
>
>
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
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Re: [Elecraft] K3

[Ken Kopp]

Phil,

MFJ sells a push-up "plastic" pole that's pretty long,
-but- it's "wimpy" at the upper end.  I suppose it can
be used partially extended.  It's good for supporting a 
vertical wire taped to the pole or actually hung inside.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP\
 elecraftcov...@rfwavenet
 http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5
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[Elecraft] K3

[Phil LaMarche]

I'll be using a W5GI mystery antenna for my vacation in North Carolina.  Can
someone recommend a portable push up pole that I can use for the center
insulator and then come down in an inverted V  Thanks
 
Phil
 

Philip LaMarche 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
  www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com   
800-395-7795 pin 02 
727-944-3226 
FAX 727-937-8834 
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605

CCA 98  00827
CRA 1701

W9DVM 


 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 both main and sub receivers are deaf on 6 meters

[W6NEK]

Problem solved.  Many thanks to both Brian & Julian for getting me off the 
hardware fault track and returning to the configuration/setup track.  I 
somehow got the RX Ant enabled on 6 Meters for both Main & Sub.  Explains 
why I was able to Xmit on my yagi but unable to receive anything (since I 
have nothing connected to the RX Ant Input!)  While I have egg on my face I 
also have a big smile.  Sure glad it was a loose nut behind the main tuning 
knob and not a real hardware problem!

Thanks again for all the feedback,
Frank - W6NEK

- Original Message - 
From: "Brian Alsop" 
To: 
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 5:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 both main and sub receivers are deaf on 6 meters


> In the menus check which antenna is selected.  In my case for some bands
> it was AUX instead of ANT1 when rig first fired up.
> You have to set this by band.
>
> 73 de Brian/K3KO
>
> Julian, G4ILO wrote:
>
>>
>>W6NEK wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I need to clarify my opening statement.
>>>The Main and Sub Receivers are both deaf on 6 meters only.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>A long shot - do you have the KXV3 module installed, and might you perhaps
>>have accidentally switched the RX Antenna option on? This would route the
>>receive signal out one BNC and back in another, and if there was nothing
>>connecting them it would make the receiver pretty deaf.
>>
>>-
>>Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
>>* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
>>* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
>>* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html 

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Power cal

[Tom Campie]

Thanks Don - My dummy load showed a 1:1 SWR on 40m with my last radio, but I
have not used an analyzer to look at it.  I suspect I'll be "close enough"
(or at least I hope it is!)  I think you are supposed to do the cal at 5
watts so no worries exceeding the power on the probe.

73 Tom

On Fri, Jul 17, 2009 at 9:58 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Tom,
>
> Yes, you can use the RF probe.  It *should* be OK up to a max of 20 watts
> measuring across a 50 ohm dummy load.  The 1N34A diode is rated at 45 volts
> peak reverse voltage, so if you exceed 30 volts RMS (the RF Probe reads in
> RMS volts), you are nearing the limit.
>
> The accuracy of your measurement depends on the accuracy of your dummy
> load.  It would be wise to check it with an antenna analyzer at the
> frequency you will be using for calibration (40 meters is preferred)
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> Tom Campie wrote:
>
>> Hey guys, I'm going to finish my KAT2 tonight and I need to calibrate the
>> power and all that stuff.  I have a 50 ohm dummy load so the SWR cal is
>> good
>> but I dont have a power meter.  Can I use the RF probe that was made
>> during
>> the construction of the K2?  If so, is there some documentation somewhere
>> on
>> how to do that?  (note -I did not build my K2 so I have not used the
>> integrated test equipment)
>>
>> Tom W0EA
>>
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Power cal

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

Yes, you can use the RF probe.  It *should* be OK up to a max of 20 
watts measuring across a 50 ohm dummy load.  The 1N34A diode is rated at 
45 volts peak reverse voltage, so if you exceed 30 volts RMS (the RF 
Probe reads in RMS volts), you are nearing the limit.

The accuracy of your measurement depends on the accuracy of your dummy 
load.  It would be wise to check it with an antenna analyzer at the 
frequency you will be using for calibration (40 meters is preferred)

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom Campie wrote:
> Hey guys, I'm going to finish my KAT2 tonight and I need to calibrate the
> power and all that stuff.  I have a 50 ohm dummy load so the SWR cal is good
> but I dont have a power meter.  Can I use the RF probe that was made during
> the construction of the K2?  If so, is there some documentation somewhere on
> how to do that?  (note -I did not build my K2 so I have not used the
> integrated test equipment)
>
> Tom W0EA
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Question on KRX3 Installation

[Grant Youngman]

Good question.  The only place I've seen this was in the errata  
mentioned.

The note in the errata indicates that cutting the traces  " ...  
ensures that the digital-to-analog converters  ... always receive the  
proper signal levels"

Grant/NQ5T


On Jul 17, 2009, at 8:57 AM, Paul Ferguson wrote:

>> In errata C-7 dated March 15, 2009, page 1, there are instructions to
>> cut two traces in the area to the right of D40 on the RF board.
>
> Shouldn't the above change be a mod mentioned on the "K3  
> Enhancements and
> Application Notes" info maintained on the Elecraft Website?
>
> I installed the KRX3 before the errata was issued. I used the mods  
> page to
> update my K3, but missed the change because it is not on the mods  
> page.
>
> Paul
> K5ESW
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Question on KRX3 Installation

[Paul Ferguson]

> In errata C-7 dated March 15, 2009, page 1, there are instructions to  
> cut two traces in the area to the right of D40 on the RF board.

Shouldn't the above change be a mod mentioned on the "K3 Enhancements and 
Application Notes" info maintained on the Elecraft Website? 

I installed the KRX3 before the errata was issued. I used the mods page to 
update my K3, but missed the change because it is not on the mods page.

Paul
K5ESW


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[Elecraft] KAT2 Power cal

[Tom Campie]

Hey guys, I'm going to finish my KAT2 tonight and I need to calibrate the
power and all that stuff.  I have a 50 ohm dummy load so the SWR cal is good
but I dont have a power meter.  Can I use the RF probe that was made during
the construction of the K2?  If so, is there some documentation somewhere on
how to do that?  (note -I did not build my K2 so I have not used the
integrated test equipment)

Tom W0EA

PS Thanks for the replies about the knobs!
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Re: [Elecraft] FS: [K1/KX1/K2] Buddipole Deluxe, Buddistick Deluxe, Miracle Whip Antennas

[ewmicro]

I'll take the miracle whip if it's still for sale.


Daniel Paul Perez wrote:
> 
> For Sale
> 
> Miracle Whip, Excellent Condition $49 + shipping
> _
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> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 both main and sub receivers are deaf on 6 meters

[Brian Alsop]

In the menus check which antenna is selected.  In my case for some bands 
it was AUX instead of ANT1 when rig first fired up.

You have to set this by band.

73 de Brian/K3KO

Julian, G4ILO wrote:



W6NEK wrote:
 


I need to clarify my opening statement.
The Main and Sub Receivers are both deaf on 6 meters only.


   



A long shot - do you have the KXV3 module installed, and might you perhaps
have accidentally switched the RX Antenna option on? This would route the
receive signal out one BNC and back in another, and if there was nothing
connecting them it would make the receiver pretty deaf.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

 





No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database: 270.13.18/2243 - Release Date: 07/17/09 06:08:00


 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
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06:08:00
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[Elecraft] CARRIER ON 21305 kHZ

[py5eg]

Hi Folks:

 

I do have a carrier 21305 Khz and some week birds in some other
frequencies on one of my K3.

Somebody has info about it?

 

73

Oms PY5EG

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 both main and sub receivers are deaf on 6 meters

[Julian, G4ILO]

W6NEK wrote:
> 
> I need to clarify my opening statement.
> The Main and Sub Receivers are both deaf on 6 meters only.
> 
> 

A long shot - do you have the KXV3 module installed, and might you perhaps
have accidentally switched the RX Antenna option on? This would route the
receive signal out one BNC and back in another, and if there was nothing
connecting them it would make the receiver pretty deaf.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Balanced Feedlines

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Joe,

Forgetting about RF performance for a moment, wouldn't the weight of RG-8/ 
RG-213 create a problem unless the antenna is supported at its feedpoint ? 
If it is not supported, Don could end up with an inverted inverted V, aka a 
"Droopy Dipole".

BTW I do not use the plastic window/ ladder line stuff here because we get a 
lot of rain and use 4 wire open wire line for long runs, which is a hassle 
to build but which has very low loss at HF and VHF wet or dry.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


 Joe Planisky wrote on Friday, July 17, 2009 2:20 AM

>I know it doesn't answer the question you asked, but RG-8/RG-213 has a
> loss of about 0.85 dB/100 ft at 20m. Your 3:1 SWR will add a little
> less than 0.4 dB additional loss for a total loss of 1.25 dB.  Is the
> added hassle of running balanced line worth the extra 1.1 dB?  Are
> there other reasons you want to use balanced line?
>
> 73
> --
> Joe KB8AP



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