Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-21 Thread David Woolley (E.L)
The safety problem is that, with typical ham radio equipment, that 
negative connection is connected to exposed metalwork, e.g. on the K2, 
the microphone socket, bezel screws and headphone socket on the front 
panel, any morse key and the multiple sockets on the back panel. The 
paintwork, also, isn't designed for electrical isolation.

If there is a fault in the power supply transformer, these can become 
hot to AC; a Class II power supply addresses this (most amateur radio 
supplies are not Class II - any that has an earth wire is not Class II). 
  If the rig is grounded to the real earth, electrical faults, or 
lightning can produce a dangerous voltage between it and other 
metalwork, which should be connected to mains earth according to your 
NEC/Building Regulations; ensuring that there is no real ground 
connected to the rig addresses this one.

It doesn't, of course have to be the negative side; there is no absolute 
rule against positive earth systems, it is just that valves and 
current generation semiconductors are naturally negative earth 
devices.  The original, alloy junction, PNP transistors favoured 
positive common systems.


Joe Planisky wrote:
 Correct, and I agree that the power supply chassis should be connected 
 to the AC (mains) safety ground.  But that wasn't the situation I was 
 asking about.  I was asking whether the negative side of the DC output 
 should be connected to the chassis.
 

-- 
David Woolley
we do not overly restrict the subject matter on the list, and we
encourage postings on a wide range of amateur radio related topics
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[Elecraft] K3 Foam Protectors

2010-01-21 Thread Ed Muns
Last summer I described the front/rear panel foam protectors that I have
designed for the K3.  I had some dies fabricated for the foam company to
stamp out closed-cell foam protectors for the front and rear panels of the
K3 for transport.  I have them glue 1/16 PVC sheets to the foam so that any
shock is distributed over the entire foam surface with very little impact
transferred to the K3.  Go to www.w0yk.com/k3_foam_protectors.htm and see
how I use these protectors to take two K3s in custom Rose Kopp cases and
three laptops (plus a lot of other stuff like cables, manuals, power
modules, trackballs, cameras, headphones, etc.) as carry-ons in my
International travels.

Note that it is a very different transport strategy than using Pelican or
other hard cases that are more bulky and often only feasible as checked
baggage.  Since TSA came into being and rifles through our luggage without
us being present I've been reluctant to subject my K3s to that routine.
Thus, this carry-on strategy.

In any case, if whatever transport mechanism you use might benefit from
these protectors, I can supply them at $15/set plus shipping.  The USPS
flat-cost medium box shipper is $10.70 which can take two sets anywhere in
CONUS.  I just had another production run made this week and a few extra
sets are available.  If there is more demand, I'll do another run which can
be done with one day turn-around.

Ed - W0YK
---
Ed Muns
Muns Vineyard - www.munsvineyard.com 
FaceBook - www.facebook.com/munsvineyard

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Re: [Elecraft] ATU END

2010-01-21 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
I think that normally indicates an attempt to Tx out of band
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 
-- 
What is the purpose of the giant sequoia tree? The purpose of the giant
sequoia tree is to provide shade for the tiny titmouse.
-Edward Abbey, naturalist and author (1927-1989)

On 21 Jan 2010, at 05:35, telegrap...@att.net wrote:

 for some reason this evening when i tap the ATU button to check the tuning on 
 various bands, started with 6 meters, i get the word END that pops up on 
 the display.  Have no idea what i may have done..  All indications are normal 
 and i used the rig today on 20 CW, again this evening on 6 SSB after fooling 
 around with it.  the ATU is enabled on all bands and not in Bypass.  Does the 
 same thing whether i'm in CW or SSb mode which are the two i operate 99 
 percent of the time anyway.  Any one tell me what's going on?  
 
 Larry
 W0OGH
 #763

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[Elecraft] WTB: XV432 Transverter (receive-only OK)

2010-01-21 Thread Dave New, N8SBE
Folks,

I'm in great need of a 432 MHz transverter (actually if the transmitter
doesn't work, that's OK).

I'm in the SE Mich area, and can meet someone to pick it up.

This is work-related, and I need it for a road trip that is currently
(last-minute) scheduled for this coming Monday, Jan 25, 2010 into Canada
and back.

I plan to use it with an RFSpace SDR to listen to 433.92 MHz for signals
while on the road.  The RFSpace box comes with a spectrum waterfall
display and can record and play back any signals I hear across a wide
spectrum around the nominal center frequency.  It normally only covers
up to 30 MHz, but with a suitable downconverter front end, can be made
to work on UHF.

If you don't want to sell it, if I could borrow/rent it from you, that
would be even better.

Please respond to the list or direct to my email ASAP.  I'll be checking
it from work today and tomorrow.

73,

-- Dave, N8SBE

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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-21 Thread Jim Miller
In many US homes the utility ground is found inside the home as it is a
ground rod embedded in the poured concrete foundation immediately below the
power panel.

73

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-21 Thread David Christ
Another commonly used ground is the water system.  Check your water 
meter.  If there is a heavy jumper around it, chances are the 
grounding wire from the service entrance connects to the cold water 
system.

David K0LUM

At 7:17 AM -0500 1/21/10, Jim Miller wrote:
In many US homes the utility ground is found inside the home as it is a
ground rod embedded in the poured concrete foundation immediately below the
power panel.

73

jim ab3cv
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[Elecraft] FS: KPA100 + KAT100 ** NICE KIT **

2010-01-21 Thread VA2SS

FOR SALE:

Nice KPA100 + KAT100 in same enclosure. A perfect fit for your actual K2 QRP
radio !!!

The kit has been built in autumn 2009. This was my third KPA100 and KAT100
kit, so the unit is nicely and perfectly built and 100% functional of
course. Comestic is almost 100%.

I'm asking 500$ USD + shipping in USA or Canada only, paid with Paypal
verified address only.

Come with the following items:

* KPA100 + KAT100 in the same enclosure
* KPA100 + KAT100 manuals
* DC cable
* Control cable between the K2 and the KPA100
* RF cable between the K2 and the KPA100

If you are interested, contact me off the list at my email address at:
jf.va2ss AT gmail DOT com

J-F VA2SS


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[Elecraft] W2 assembly

2010-01-21 Thread Jim Spears
I am assembling a W2 wattmeter.  So far so good.  Removing the baked on
paint for electrical conductivity at the holes is turning out to be a real
pain.  Does anyone have a tip for an efficient method for doing this?  So
far the best I have found is scratching with the tip of a knife.  Perhaps
Elecraft could have this area masked off during the paint process.

 

Jim/N1NK

K3 2295

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Foam Protectors

2010-01-21 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

Hi Ed,

Are you hauling yours to Dayton? I'd like to eyeball it then.

73,
Julius

-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3#1875
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[Elecraft] Re: W2 assembly

2010-01-21 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Jim,

I use a very coarse sand paper to remove the paint.  In K2, Elecraft did mask 
off some of the contact areas.  I just don't know why they don't do that on 
W2.  I suppose the cost to do that should be minimal to Elecraft.

cheers,

Johnny VR2XMC



- 郵件原件 
寄件人﹕ Jim Spears n...@cox.net
收件人﹕ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期﹕ 2010/1/21 (四) 10:53:13 PM
主題: [Elecraft] W2 assembly

I am assembling a W2 wattmeter.  So far so good.  Removing the baked on
paint for electrical conductivity at the holes is turning out to be a real
pain.  Does anyone have a tip for an efficient method for doing this?  So
far the best I have found is scratching with the tip of a knife.  Perhaps
Elecraft could have this area masked off during the paint process.



Jim/N1NK

K3 2295


  Yahoo!香港提供網上安全攻略,教你如何防範黑客! 請前往 http://hk.promo.yahoo.com/security/ 了解更多!

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[Elecraft] K3 and N4PY Software

2010-01-21 Thread John Huffman
Computer control can really add to the enjoyment to using a K3.   I 
thought I'd pass along my experience.

I've been using computer control with my radios for years.  The newest 
version of the N4PY rig control program is a good match to the 
capabilities of the K3.

Using N4PY I can perform most of the radio functions from the keyboard 
and the mouse.  Easy QSY is a good example.  There are separate buttons 
for two or three modes per band.  The Band/Mode buttons return you to 
your last frequency for that mode on that band.  It's much better than a 
memory that will only go to a preset frequency.

The program allows you to use the mouse wheel for up to ten different 
functions.  I usually use it to change frequency.  But, if I hit a key 
on the keypad the wheel can be a volume control.  Hit another keypad 
number and the wheel is RF gain or RIT or pass band tuning or filter 
width.  There are lots of possibilities.

The program controls the K3's functions and extends that control to 
external equipment.  It interfaces directly with PowerSDR-IQ when using 
a LP-Pan panadapter to allow clicking on the panadapter screen for 
changing frequency.  It interfaces with the K1EL Winkeyer, LP100A 
wattmeter, LDG tuners and coax switches, and some Tokyo High Power or 
Acom amps.

The program has all the bells and whistles but has a clean and simple 
user interface.  The learning curve is relatively short.  If a K3 button 
is not part of the standard N4PY program interface, there are six 
user-defined buttons to control any tap or hold button on the radio.

If you are interested in a different way to operate your K3, the N4PY 
program is worth a try.  It's not a free program, but a time-limited 
trial version is available.

I have no financial interest in this software, or any other for that 
matter.  Just a very satisfied customer.

73 de K1ESE
John

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Foam Protectors

2010-01-21 Thread Ed Muns
Not likely ... I'll probably fill my baggage quota with wine, hi!  But, Eric
transports his K3s the same way and will have them in the Elecraft booth
where you can have a look-see.

Ed
---
Ed Muns
Muns Vineyard - www.munsvineyard.com 
FaceBook - www.facebook.com/munsvineyard 

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Julius 
 Fazekas n2wn
 Sent: Thursday, 21 January, 2010 07:03
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Foam Protectors
 
 
 Hi Ed,
 
 Are you hauling yours to Dayton? I'd like to eyeball it then.
 
 73,
 Julius
 
 -
 Julius Fazekas
 N2WN
 
 Tennessee Contest Group
 http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html
 
 Tennessee QSO Party
 http://www.tnqp.org/
 
 Elecraft K2/100 #4455
 Elecraft K3/100 #366
 Elecraft K3#1875
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Foam-Protectors-tp4432365p4434092.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Foam Protectors

2010-01-21 Thread Greg - AB7R
Julius,  

These protectors are absolutely worth it and are a perfect compliment to Rose's 
cases.  I 
saw Eric's at SeaPac last year and new immediately that I wanted them.

-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065


On Thu Jan 21  7:14 , Ed Muns  sent:

Not likely ... I'll probably fill my baggage quota with wine, hi!  But, Eric
transports his K3s the same way and will have them in the Elecraft booth
where you can have a look-see.

Ed
---
Ed Muns
Muns Vineyard - www.munsvineyard.com 
FaceBook - www.facebook.com/munsvineyard 

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net','','','')elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]
  On 
Behalf Of Julius 
 Fazekas n2wn
 Sent: Thursday, 21 January, 2010 07:03
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Foam Protectors
 
 
 Hi Ed,
 
 Are you hauling yours to Dayton? I'd like to eyeball it then.
 
 73,
 Julius
 
 -
 Julius Fazekas
 N2WN
 
 Tennessee Contest Group
 http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html
 
 Tennessee QSO Party
 http://www.tnqp.org/
 
 Elecraft K2/100 #4455
 Elecraft K3/100 #366
 Elecraft K3#1875
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Foam-Protectors-tp4432365p4434092.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
 __
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 Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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 Post: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net','','','')Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Foam Protectors [UPDATE]

2010-01-21 Thread Ed Muns
 Last summer I described the front/rear panel foam protectors 
 that I have designed for the K3. 
SNIP

Two important clarifications:

1. Case sizing - these foam protectors add about 1.5 in the front-to-back
dimension of the K3.  Therefore, any case that is sized to accommodate just
the K3 itself may not allow the foam protectors to be added.  If you already
have a case don't assume you can add the foam and still get the assembly
inserted easily.

For example, I had a pair of Rose Kopp cases made at the introduction of the
K3.  They are GREAT!  But, after using them to take my K3s as flight
carry-ons, the notion of these foam protectors was inspired.  I was barely
able to cram the K3s and foam into the original cases, so I sent Rose a set
of the protectors and purchased a second set of bags that allow the assembly
to easily slip in and out with a still have a perfect fit.

Those of you who already have Rose Kopp, or other, cases may not be able to
add these foam protectors.  Send any complaints to ME, not Rose, because she
is not clairvoyant, hi!  She does make wonderful accessories for the
Elecraft products, even pink (apologies, Eric!).

2.  PayPal - Yes, PayPal is fine (even preferred) IF you can figure out how
to get me the full amount.  My w...@msn.com PayPal account is Personal so it
is possible to get fee-less funds to me.  You either need to pay the PayPal
fees on your end, or send me extra to cover the fees, or configure the
transaction to be fee-less.  One way that often works is to gift me the
money.  Typically, sending as Goods, or Services, will result in fees.
Also, you must use funds already in your PayPal account or use bank funds
... NOT credit card funds.  I can also run credit cards through my business.

Ed
---
Ed Muns
Muns Vineyard - www.munsvineyard.com 
FaceBook - www.facebook.com/munsvineyard 


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[Elecraft] K3 #3857 Up and Running-- CW clicks??

2010-01-21 Thread KM4VX

Although I love my K2, which I am keeping, I now have a K3 on the air today.
Fantastic rig. I may even get a chance to operate once I configure this
amazing radio. I am trying the new K3 EZ software for following what I am
doing in setting up the radio. I see from the reflector that there have been
instances of clicks when sending CW. I am experiencing the same problem, and
don't see a resolution to the problem on the relector. I have tried my
straight key and paddle, and get clicks when sending CW. I send at 15 WPM.
Has anyone found a good answer to this problem. I hear the clicks in my
headset and in the speaker. RF feedback? Thanks, and again this is one dream
radio to configure and I look forward to actually operating it soon. P.S.
Radio was factory assembled and arrived yesterday. 
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[Elecraft] K3BSR New Features...

2010-01-21 Thread Don Rasmussen
Here is some help for sight impaired or old eyes like mine... ;-)

http://www.zerobeat.net/wb8yqj/bsrdisp.jpg

http://tinyurl.com/yayw3b4

http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/K3_BSR-SM_Version_7

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[Elecraft] Was Grounding negative side of power supply? - CORRECTING A SERIOUS ERROR

2010-01-21 Thread Jim Brown
NO, NO, NO!

Joe, who rarely ever gets it wrong, has led us down a VERY wrong path, 
and you, who also rarely get it wrong, have followed him. :) 

It is the NEUTRAL that must be bonded to EARTH and SYSTEM GROUND at the 
main panel/service entrance, and ONLY at that panel. An additional 
NEUTRAL connection to ground (or the green wire) is what causes an unsafe 
condition. 

Multiple paths to earth for the chassis of equipment are a GOOD thing, as 
long as they are all bonded together. in fact, safety codes and good 
engineering practice all say that you can have as many connections to 
EARTH as you want, that more connections are better, AND that all of 
these earth connections MUST be bonded together by a low impedance path. 

On Wed, 20 Jan 2010 22:46:54 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Joe and all,

I would also like to point out that the situation Joe presents can be 
the source of sneak ground path currents which can contribute to noise 
at your station. 

I suggest study of my power point on Ham Interfacing to understand what 
you are calling sneak ground path currents -- indeed, they are nothing 
more than leakage currents from the hot side of the AC power line through 
capactance to the chassis of equipment. This capacitance includes bypass 
capacitors (including those in line filters) and the stray capacitance 
between the power transformer primary and its frame, which is bonded to 
the chassis. 

http://audiosystemsgroup.com/HamInterfacing.pdf

For more on power and grounding, see

http://audiosystemsgroup.com/SurgeXPowerGround.pdf

By all means, connect any ham related ground rods to 
the AC mains entry point ground rod.  I don't care how you accomplish 
that - just do it.  If it reduces noise in your receiver, that is a 
benefit, but if not, be assured that your shack will be a more safe 
place to inhabit.

YES! 

73,
Don W3FPR

Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
 This creates a situation that is potentially hazardous 
 to your equipment.  The AC third (green) wire is supposed 
 to be connected to ground only at the main panel/service 
 entrance.  

WRONG. See above. 

73,

Jim Brown K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-21 Thread Jim Brown
On Wed, 20 Jan 2010 23:47:51 -0500, Richard S. Lindzen wrote:

I am planning to put up a K9AY receiving antenna in my backyard and 
it is supposed to be connected to a ground rod. 

That ground rod is isolated by a ferrite core stepdown transformer 
from the shack, so it is NOT a part of your house ground. 

73,

Jim K9YC


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[Elecraft] F.S. KAT100 built.

2010-01-21 Thread edward kacura
I have a KAT100 which is excess to my needs now. $200.00 shipped US only, 
paypal please. Contact me off line @ ekac...@yahoo.com  Thank you, Ed  N7EDK


  
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Re: [Elecraft] Was Grounding negative side of power supply? -CORRECTING A SERIOUS ERROR

2010-01-21 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

Jim, 

While the Neutral (the white wire in the US three wire power 
cable) must be bonded to ground at the service entrance and 
nowhere else, by code the Neutral must ** NOT ** be bonded to 
the case/chassis of any equipment (e.g., white should never 
be connected to the case) so the neutral is not at issue here. 
However, the SAFETY ground (green wire/round pin) is also 
bonded to ground at the service entrance - and in most 
residential installations ONLY at that point.  

It is this situation, where the safety ground (chassis) and 
the shield of the coaxial cables (also connected to chassis) 
are at different potentials that is potentially unsafe. 

First, the safety ground conductor in most residential 
wiring is no larger than #10.  In a lightning strike, currents 
WILL flow on the safety ground.  Those currents can make the 
chassis/cabinet of anything connected to the power lines HOT 
and can be dangerous.  The ONLY way to prevent this issue is 
BOND the coaxial entry window, cable TV entry, satellite TV 
entry, telephone entry, and power entry ... in addition, any 
other conductor (water lines, gas lines, power to outbuildings 
or landscape lighting, etc.) that enter the home should be 
bonded to the common point.  

Where those items do not enter the building at the same place 
it may be necessary to install a ground ring (heavy wire with 
multiple ground rods) around the entire structure and tie each 
conductor to that ground ring. 

Again, the key is to insure that the individual grounds rise 
and fall together and can not become separated and therefore 
pose a danger to either persons or equipment. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
 Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 12:42 PM
 To: Elecraft List
 Subject: [Elecraft] Was Grounding negative side of power 
 supply? -CORRECTING A SERIOUS ERROR
 
 
 NO, NO, NO!
 
 Joe, who rarely ever gets it wrong, has led us down a VERY 
 wrong path, 
 and you, who also rarely get it wrong, have followed him. :) 
 
 It is the NEUTRAL that must be bonded to EARTH and SYSTEM 
 GROUND at the 
 main panel/service entrance, and ONLY at that panel. An additional 
 NEUTRAL connection to ground (or the green wire) is what 
 causes an unsafe 
 condition. 
 
 Multiple paths to earth for the chassis of equipment are a 
 GOOD thing, as 
 long as they are all bonded together. in fact, safety codes and good 
 engineering practice all say that you can have as many connections to 
 EARTH as you want, that more connections are better, AND that all of 
 these earth connections MUST be bonded together by a low 
 impedance path. 
 
 On Wed, 20 Jan 2010 22:46:54 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 
 Joe and all,
 
 I would also like to point out that the situation Joe presents can be
 the source of sneak ground path currents which can 
 contribute to noise 
 at your station. 
 
 I suggest study of my power point on Ham Interfacing to 
 understand what 
 you are calling sneak ground path currents -- indeed, they 
 are nothing 
 more than leakage currents from the hot side of the AC power 
 line through 
 capactance to the chassis of equipment. This capacitance 
 includes bypass 
 capacitors (including those in line filters) and the stray 
 capacitance 
 between the power transformer primary and its frame, which is 
 bonded to 
 the chassis. 
 
 http://audiosystemsgroup.com/HamInterfacing.pdf
 
 For more on power and grounding, see
 
 http://audiosystemsgroup.com/SurgeXPowerGround.pdf
 
 By all means, connect any ham related ground rods to
 the AC mains entry point ground rod.  I don't care how you 
 accomplish 
 that - just do it.  If it reduces noise in your receiver, 
 that is a 
 benefit, but if not, be assured that your shack will be a more safe 
 place to inhabit.
 
 YES! 
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
  This creates a situation that is potentially hazardous
  to your equipment.  The AC third (green) wire is supposed 
  to be connected to ground only at the main panel/service 
  entrance.  
 
 WRONG. See above. 
 
 73,
 
 Jim Brown K9YC
 
 
 
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[Elecraft] New W2 Firmware rev 0.95 and W2 Interface rev 1.1.1.20 available

2010-01-21 Thread Brian
We are announcing the release of W2 Firmware rev 0.95, and the companion 
W2 Interface programs for PC and MAC, rev 1.1.1.20.

The W2 firmware will be the new version your W2 Utility program 
downloads from our ftp site (automatically, if you have the Copy new 
files from Elecraft into local folder box checked).  Here's what's new 
for rev 0.95...

*Rev 0.95, 21-Jan-2010*

 

  * ADDITIONAL CALIBRATION COMMANDS:* *You may now use the  and  
characters when calibrating your W2 Sensor. The  character increases 
the calibration value by 5, and the  reduces the calibration value by 5.

 

  * ALARM CONDITION RESET VIA SOFTWARE:* *The High SWR Alarm condition 
(W2 stops with flashing SWR LED's) may be reset via software. Send the 
W2 either a C or c to clear the alarm.  Software can also be used to 
detect an Alarm condition by sending the W2 an I/i. If it is in the 
Alarm state, the response will only be the character A!.

* *

  * AUTO RANGE MODE IMPROVEMENTS:* *This version includes the most 
significant improvements yet to stabilize the Auto Range mode.

 

  * SO2R OPERATION WITH TWO SENSORS: If you are using two sensors 
connected to one W2 in an SO2R arrangement, the W2 can now monitor them 
both and lock on the one detecting RF. To use this feature send the W2 
either a y or Y. The W2 indicates it is in SO2R mode by lighting 
only the two S1/S2 LED's while no RF is detected. While one Sensor is 
active, you can change the range and decay speeds as desired. The W2 
reverts to normal operation if any button is pressed or it receives 
another Y or y serial command.

 

  * 2KW HF SENSOR SERIAL DATA: The decimal point function for Reflected 
Power was incorrect when the measured Forward Power was above 20 watts 
(value sent was too high). Now corrected.**

 


And here's what's new for the W2 Interface program from David, W4SMT...

*Version 1.1.1.20*

* This version requires W2 Firmware Rev 0.95 or higher.

* W2 in the Alarm state now opens a message box window that explains
  the alarm and displays the last SWR reading. Clicking the 'Clear'
  button resets the alarm on the W2 (sends C). Detects the SENSOR
  button being pressed on the W2. Also detects alarm state on startup

* Added 'Peak-Hold Textual Readouts' checkbox in SETUP. The user can
  now turn off the text display peak holds if desired. It defaults
  to on. The state is saved upon exiting the program.

* Made the peak-hold ticks wider for better visibility.


As always, if you have any trouble, please send any questions to 
k3supp...@elecraft.com.

73,
Brian, W6FVI
W2 Firmware Engineer
Elecraft, Inc.

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Was Grounding negative side of power supply? - CORRECTING A SERIOUS ERROR

2010-01-21 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

Yes, Yes, Yes!, I think you read it wrong.

While multiple ground rods and multiple ground path are ok, National 
Electric Code requires them to be connected to the Utility Entry-point 
Ground.  I have posted on this subject many, many times - any additional 
ground rods must connect to the entry ground rod (or point) for safety 
under fault conditions.  I have 20 or 30 ground rods spread about for 
lightning protection - all connected together by #4 or #6 wire and also 
connected to the utility entry ground rod.

Yes, the neutral wire is only to be connected to the safety ground 
inside the entry panel (sub-panels and wired electrical devices must 
isolate the two) - but we were talking about grounds, not the neutral.

One additional note about ground rods at the service entry - I was 
surprised to learn (while building a rental house this year) that now 2 
ground rods are required at the entry, separated by at least 6 feet, and 
connected together with a #6 or larger wire.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jim Brown wrote:
 NO, NO, NO!

 Joe, who rarely ever gets it wrong, has led us down a VERY wrong path, 
 and you, who also rarely get it wrong, have followed him. :) 

 It is the NEUTRAL that must be bonded to EARTH and SYSTEM GROUND at the 
 main panel/service entrance, and ONLY at that panel. An additional 
 NEUTRAL connection to ground (or the green wire) is what causes an unsafe 
 condition. 

 Multiple paths to earth for the chassis of equipment are a GOOD thing, as 
 long as they are all bonded together. in fact, safety codes and good 
 engineering practice all say that you can have as many connections to 
 EARTH as you want, that more connections are better, AND that all of 
 these earth connections MUST be bonded together by a low impedance path. 

   

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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-21 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 That ground rod is isolated by a ferrite core stepdown transformer 
 from the shack, so it is NOT a part of your house ground. 

IF you use the transformer version of the schematic and not the 
original auto-transformer design. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
 Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 12:46 PM
 To: Elecraft List
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?
 
 
 On Wed, 20 Jan 2010 23:47:51 -0500, Richard S. Lindzen wrote:
 
 I am planning to put up a K9AY receiving antenna in my backyard and
 it is supposed to be connected to a ground rod. 
 
 That ground rod is isolated by a ferrite core stepdown transformer 
 from the shack, so it is NOT a part of your house ground. 
 
 73,
 
 Jim K9YC
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-21 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Understanding how dangerous voltages can develop on a GROUND wire
can sometimes be helped by understanding lightning as a very extreme
surge, a standing wave in electrons looking for some place to go to
dissipate.

The force behind the surge is is the lightning of course, and the
ground conduction as this surge spreads out is EXTREMELY lumpy,
miscellaneous, whatever you want to call it.  If lightning hit a tree
in your back yard, this pulse is trying to move away from it, taking
what ever path it may to get away.

One of the paths of conduction for the surge might be from the ground
up into a ground rod to a conductor at your feedline entrance, to a
grounding plate, to the shield of every one of your coax feeds, to
the chassis of all your rigs. At this instance your rig cases are high
against everything else as the surge takes off down the safety ground
wire to the power ground.

Connecting the coax entry ground to the power ground with a straight
large conductor run gives the surge another EASIER way to go. Avoiding
the need for this low impedance shunt path is why a single point
ground works.

One thing that often gets missed is that a house with its foundation
system or basement can be a conduction barrier in the path of the
surge's dissipation pulse. If there is a miscellaneous conduction path
through/under the house, you want it to be a good one where detours up
to sensitive equipment is out of the way and unattractive to the
surge.

73, Guy.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #3857 Up and Running-- CW clicks??

2010-01-21 Thread KM4VX

Thank you for the replies. I have discovered the difference between semi
break-in delay, which is controlled by the delay knob on the radio, and the
TX DLY feature in the configuration menu. I use semi  break-in and have now
reset that higher using the knob on the radio vice the menu feature..  I
raised mine to 0.08 and the clicks disappeared. I hope this may be helpful
to others. The default setting for this front panel delay knob was 0.01,
which resulted in lots of clicking. 73.
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-3857-Up-and-Running-CW-clicks-tp4434843p4436326.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K3 DXpedition carry cases

2010-01-21 Thread Ken Kopp
BlankAbout a year ago I made two K3 cases for Ed Muns, W0YK that were 
a bit wider to accomodate closed-cell foam end caps that he had made 
for added protection for his K3's on overseas trips.

After seeing Ed's cases with his end caps offering additional protection
to the front and rear panels of the K3, Elecraft ordered several of these
cases that they now use to transport their demo K3's to hamfests.

There has been recent conversation about Ed's end caps and my cases 
on several reflectors and I've already received inquiries asking if I would
offer these enhanced cases as a regular product.  Simply put, yes.

Ed has already made his end caps available to several who apparently 
pack their K3 in luggage or other packaging, and Ed will furnish me with 
a stock of the caps for me to supply with DXpedition case orders.  This
is a mutually agreed-to arrangement and it saves Ed the trouble of selling
and shipping a set of caps to those who purchase a case from me.

The DXpedition case is four inches wider than my standard case, but 
is otherwise essentially the same.  The additional case cost will be $38, 
which -includes- a set of Ed's end caps.  

If you want to carry two K3's together as one bag we've devised a way to 
do so.  The changes needed to fasten two cases together back-to-back 
are minimal.

If you want photos of the end caps and their use with the case, I can e-mail 
them to you.  I'm sorry, but if you already have one of my standard cases
it would be impossible to convert it to the larger DXpedition case.  If you
want a DXpedition case, maybe you can sell your standard case to another 
K3 owner.  I -have- replaced a couple of front panels (w/embroidery) of cases 
when they've been gone to new homes. (:-))

73! Rose
  elecraftcov...@rfwave,net
  



Ken Kopp - K0PP
elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
or
k...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-21 Thread Don Wilhelm
Guy,

That is the reason I put a perimeter wire around my house with a ground 
stake every place the wire makes an abrupt turn.  That wire provides any 
lightning surge with a lower impedance path than that which it might 
find by blowing a hole through the foundation wall.

In my opinion, definitive information on lightning protection and 
station grounding was written by Ron Block, and can be found on the 
PolyPhaser website - it was also published in a 2 part series in QST 
some years back - it should be available to ARRL members on the ARRL 
website.  Those articles convinced me that the perimeter wire was the 
best thing I could do.

73,
Don W3FPR

Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
 One thing that often gets missed is that a house with its foundation
 system or basement can be a conduction barrier in the path of the
 surge's dissipation pulse. If there is a miscellaneous conduction path
 through/under the house, you want it to be a good one where detours up
 to sensitive equipment is out of the way and unattractive to the
 surge.

 73, Guy.
   

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[Elecraft] Delay in monitor audio - it aint there!

2010-01-21 Thread Lu Romero
To those of you who were complaining about the delay in the
K3 audio monitor chain, I am curious what you are hearing.  

After reading the thread, and playing around with the radio
for a few days critically listening for this issue, I dont
hear a problem.  

Maybe its a matter of your listening through a sound card or
some other external device.  Or maybe you have external
digital processing after your microphone.  However, with a
microphone plugged in directly (OK, through a microHAM
MicroKeyerII then into the K3) and my headphones plugged in
to the front panel headphone jack, I do not hear any
discernable delay in the audio feed when listening to myself
in the audio monitor of the rig.

And before I get flamed for not knowing what to listen for,
Im learned in audio delay issues... As a broadcaster, I
understand audio delay and can see lip sync problems down to
around 2 video frames (just ask ABC and Fox TV Network
Control centers, they probably curse me even today). 
Newspeople have complemented me on my attention to their
audio delay problems in their IFB and ProChannel feeds for
years (rare for them, because usually they only talk to
engineers when things are broken or they want a free tape
for their resume reel).

Lu Romero - W4LT
K3 #3192





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DXpedition carry cases

2010-01-21 Thread Ken Chandler
Rose
Re the expedition case, what are the stock colors on offer!!!

Ken..G0ORH

Sent from my iPhone




On 21 Jan 2010, at 21:18, Ken Kopp k...@rfwave.net wrote:

 BlankAbout a year ago I made two K3 cases for Ed Muns, W0YK that were
 a bit wider to accomodate closed-cell foam end caps that he had made
 for added protection for his K3's on overseas trips.

 After seeing Ed's cases with his end caps offering additional  
 protection
 to the front and rear panels of the K3, Elecraft ordered several of  
 these
 cases that they now use to transport their demo K3's to hamfests.

 There has been recent conversation about Ed's end caps and my cases
 on several reflectors and I've already received inquiries asking if  
 I would
 offer these enhanced cases as a regular product.  Simply put, yes.

 Ed has already made his end caps available to several who apparently
 pack their K3 in luggage or other packaging, and Ed will furnish me  
 with
 a stock of the caps for me to supply with DXpedition case orders.   
 This
 is a mutually agreed-to arrangement and it saves Ed the trouble of  
 selling
 and shipping a set of caps to those who purchase a case from me.

 The DXpedition case is four inches wider than my standard case, but
 is otherwise essentially the same.  The additional case cost will be  
 $38,
 which -includes- a set of Ed's end caps.

 If you want to carry two K3's together as one bag we've devised a  
 way to
 do so.  The changes needed to fasten two cases together back-to-back
 are minimal.

 If you want photos of the end caps and their use with the case, I  
 can e-mail
 them to you.  I'm sorry, but if you already have one of my  
 standard cases
 it would be impossible to convert it to the larger DXpedition  
 case.  If you
 want a DXpedition case, maybe you can sell your standard case to  
 another
 K3 owner.  I -have- replaced a couple of front panels (w/embroidery)  
 of cases
 when they've been gone to new homes. (:-))

 73! Rose
  elecraftcov...@rfwave,net




 Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 or
 k...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-21 Thread Telegrapher

 Glen Zook K9STH also has good readings on grounding on his web page.  They 
appear to be of good authority.  Do a search for K9STH and it should appear.

Larry
W0OGH


  -- Original message from Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com: 
--


 Guy,
 
 That is the reason I put a perimeter wire around my house with a ground 
 stake every place the wire makes an abrupt turn.  That wire provides any 
 lightning surge with a lower impedance path than that which it might 
 find by blowing a hole through the foundation wall.
 
 In my opinion, definitive information on lightning protection and 
 station grounding was written by Ron Block, and can be found on the 
 PolyPhaser website - it was also published in a 2 part series in QST 
 some years back - it should be available to ARRL members on the ARRL 
 website.  Those articles convinced me that the perimeter wire was the 
 best thing I could do.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
  One thing that often gets missed is that a house with its foundation
  system or basement can be a conduction barrier in the path of the
  surge's dissipation pulse. If there is a miscellaneous conduction path
  through/under the house, you want it to be a good one where detours up
  to sensitive equipment is out of the way and unattractive to the
  surge.
 
  73, Guy.

 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DXpedition carry cases

2010-01-21 Thread Alan Bloom
Hi Rose,

I've already ordered the end caps from Ed.  What would be the price just
for two cases with the velcro to attach them together?

Thanks,

Al N1AL


On Thu, 2010-01-21 at 21:18 +, Ken Kopp wrote:
...
 Ed has already made his end caps available to several who apparently 
 pack their K3 in luggage or other packaging, and Ed will furnish me with 
 a stock of the caps for me to supply with DXpedition case orders.  This
 is a mutually agreed-to arrangement and it saves Ed the trouble of selling
 and shipping a set of caps to those who purchase a case from me.
 
 The DXpedition case is four inches wider than my standard case, but 
 is otherwise essentially the same.  The additional case cost will be $38, 
 which -includes- a set of Ed's end caps.  
 
 If you want to carry two K3's together as one bag we've devised a way to 
 do so.  The changes needed to fasten two cases together back-to-back 
 are minimal.
...

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Re: [Elecraft] Was Grounding negative side of power supply? - CORRECTING A SERIOUS ERROR

2010-01-21 Thread David Cutter
A picture paints a thousand words.

Point to a web page with all this drawn and save all this bandwidth.

Someone might be then able to compare one system with another.

David
G3UNA
  
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Re: [Elecraft] Delay in monitor audio - it aint there!

2010-01-21 Thread Bob Cunnings
Here's an interesting piece on K3 transmit audio processing:

http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/elecraft_k3_speech_processing.htm

where it is reported that There's 31 milliseconds of processing delay
in the K3's DSP stages between microphone input and monitor output...
using the setup described in the article. The date is 15 March 2009.

Bob NW8L

On Thu, Jan 21, 2010 at 2:53 PM, Lu Romero lrom...@ij.net wrote:
 To those of you who were complaining about the delay in the
 K3 audio monitor chain, I am curious what you are hearing.

 After reading the thread, and playing around with the radio
 for a few days critically listening for this issue, I dont
 hear a problem.

 Maybe its a matter of your listening through a sound card or
 some other external device.  Or maybe you have external
 digital processing after your microphone.  However, with a
 microphone plugged in directly (OK, through a microHAM
 MicroKeyerII then into the K3) and my headphones plugged in
 to the front panel headphone jack, I do not hear any
 discernable delay in the audio feed when listening to myself
 in the audio monitor of the rig.

 And before I get flamed for not knowing what to listen for,
 Im learned in audio delay issues... As a broadcaster, I
 understand audio delay and can see lip sync problems down to
 around 2 video frames (just ask ABC and Fox TV Network
 Control centers, they probably curse me even today).
 Newspeople have complemented me on my attention to their
 audio delay problems in their IFB and ProChannel feeds for
 years (rare for them, because usually they only talk to
 engineers when things are broken or they want a free tape
 for their resume reel).

 Lu Romero - W4LT
 K3 #3192





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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning Protection articles

2010-01-21 Thread Don Wilhelm
OK, this thread has morphed into lightning protection related topics, 
and I have changed the subject line.
I checked the PolyPhaser site and the information is no longer there.

ARRL Archives has the best one I know about.  It was a 3 part 
publication run in June, July and August of 2002.
Author is W. Ronald Block, KB2UYT and carries the title of Lightning 
Protection for the Amateur Radio Station.
Download the 3 .PDF files - they have pictures and diagrams.

That is the guidelines I used to constructed my system.  I consider this 
an authoritative source, and I have not seen one since that covered all 
aspects.  I looked at the K9STH articles and while informative, they 
lacked completeness.

73,
Don W3FPR

David Cutter wrote:
 A picture paints a thousand words.

   
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Re: [Elecraft] Delay in monitor audio - it aint there!

2010-01-21 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
The conclusion, only found at the very bottom of the article:

Conclusion:

RF clipping, as implemented in the K3, is quite effective at
increasing talk power without causing major increases in transmitted
intermodulation. The resulting audio quality at high levels of
clipping may not be suitable for extended rag chew conversations, but
will provide useful improvements in contests or other situations where
maximum dynamic range of the recovered audio is not the primary
consideration.

Although 31 ms of delay was reported, that wasn't what the article was
written about.

73, Guy.

On Thu, Jan 21, 2010 at 6:38 PM, Bob Cunnings bob.cunni...@gmail.com wrote:
 Here's an interesting piece on K3 transmit audio processing:

 http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/elecraft_k3_speech_processing.htm

 where it is reported that There's 31 milliseconds of processing delay
 in the K3's DSP stages between microphone input and monitor output...
 using the setup described in the article. The date is 15 March 2009.

 Bob NW8L
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Re: [Elecraft] FS: KPA100 + KAT100 ** NICE KIT ** SOLD

2010-01-21 Thread VA2SS

SOLD

73

J-F VA2SS
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/FS-KPA100-KAT100-NICE-KIT-tp4433718p4437480.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DXpedition carry cases

2010-01-21 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
Add $20. to the list price of the standard case.

And I've asked for a bright color, in order to easily keep track it.
I was thinking international orange, but in retrospect, think that
might cause trouble with people thinking it's emergency gear (like
when taking it out of the overhead compartment).  Maybe lime green.
Ken and Rose are checking to see what they can get.

73, doug

   From: Alan Bloom n...@cds1.net
   Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 15:01:22 -0800

   Hi Rose,

   I've already ordered the end caps from Ed.  What would be the price just
   for two cases with the velcro to attach them together?

   Thanks,

   Al N1AL


   On Thu, 2010-01-21 at 21:18 +, Ken Kopp wrote:
   ...
Ed has already made his end caps available to several who apparently 
pack their K3 in luggage or other packaging, and Ed will furnish me with 
a stock of the caps for me to supply with DXpedition case orders.  This
is a mutually agreed-to arrangement and it saves Ed the trouble of selling
and shipping a set of caps to those who purchase a case from me.

The DXpedition case is four inches wider than my standard case, but 
is otherwise essentially the same.  The additional case cost will be $38, 
which -includes- a set of Ed's end caps.  

If you want to carry two K3's together as one bag we've devised a way to 
do so.  The changes needed to fasten two cases together back-to-back 
are minimal.
   ...

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Re: [Elecraft] how much harder to build: K2 vs K1?

2010-01-21 Thread lstavenhagen

Ok, thanks Don and everyone.

I've looked through the soldering tutorial and will try to get some practice
in. I have a weller soldering station with several different 700F tips. I
ordered solder, wick, some tools and an anti-stat mat from Mouser yesterday
so they should arrive around the same time as my kit (Elecraft shipped it a
couple days ago). 
I didn't order any of the mini modules along with the K2, tho. But I think
I'm going to go ahead and get an XG2 and build that first. 
I also think I should get the noise blanker - I recently moved and just now
put up a wire. On the 706 I do hear loads of pulse noise around my new
area

LS
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/how-much-harder-to-build-K2-vs-K1-tp4234815p4437683.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning Protection articles

2010-01-21 Thread Joe Planisky
I think these may be the PolyPhaser articles Don was referring to.

http://www.polyphaser.com/technical_notes.aspx

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 21, 2010, at 3:56 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 OK, this thread has morphed into lightning protection related topics,
 and I have changed the subject line.
 I checked the PolyPhaser site and the information is no longer there.

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Re: [Elecraft] W2 assembly

2010-01-21 Thread Randy Farmer
I'm not sure whether you need to remove paint on the inside or the 
outside of the panel surface to assemble the W2. If it's an inside 
job where looks don't really matter, if you have access to a really 
large drill bit (say 1/2 or better) you can simply center it in the 
hole and twirl it a couple of times. This will remove the paint, and 
a bit of metal, around the periphery of the hole. This technique also 
works well as a quick and dirty deburring tool for holes drilled in 
sheet metal.

73...
Randy, W8FN

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[Elecraft] K3 interface to HP Mini

2010-01-21 Thread Tom Meier
Has anyone been successful with an audio interface between an HP Mini
notebook and a K3?  I have a TRRS splitter, but the microphone input side
of it does work.  Yes, the audio drivers are up to date.  Yes, the Jack Mike
is turned on.

The real question is whether or not I'm using the correct plug for the
splitter.  It looks like the one that HP recommends and is common to an
iPhone.  If that's not correct where does one purchase the correct plug.

73 de Tom (K7ZZ)
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Re: [Elecraft] W2 Assembly

2010-01-21 Thread Ed Schuller
This isn't a difficult task. Just use a small file and scrape the paint off 
around the holes. It took me all of 45 minutes from opening the packing box to 
having the W2 in line. No need to overthink the building process! 
 
73,
Ed - K6CTA
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Re: [Elecraft] W2 assembly

2010-01-21 Thread Radio Amateur N5GE
On Thu, 21 Jan 2010 09:53:13 -0500, Jim Spears n...@cox.net wrote:

I am assembling a W2 wattmeter.  So far so good.  Removing the baked on
paint for electrical conductivity at the holes is turning out to be a real
pain.  Does anyone have a tip for an efficient method for doing this?  So
far the best I have found is scratching with the tip of a knife.  Perhaps
Elecraft could have this area masked off during the paint process.

 

Jim/N1NK

K3 2295

If you have a dremmal with a wire brush they work great.

Tom, N5GE

n...@n5ge.com
K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6,
XV144, XV432, KRC2,
W1, 2 W2's and other small kits

1 K144XV on order

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 69, Issue 40

2010-01-21 Thread tom kenville
Folks,

It is best not to rely on water pipes for any type of grounding.

Many homes have various combinations of steel, copper, plastic, etc. piping.
These are electrically discontinuous, often with purposefully inserted
galvanic isolators.

The best ground is a proven, direct ground.
Bonding of all electrical grounds to the common feed-point ground is required.

You risk too much with the chance of holding a mike and touching
another piece of non-ham equipment.

tom -- w6tjk

From: David Christ radio...@mchsi.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID: p0624080fc77e08e1b...@[10.0.1.3]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii ; format=flowed

 Another commonly used ground is the water system.  Check your water
 meter.  If there is a heavy jumper around it, chances are the
 grounding wire from the service entrance connects to the cold water
 system.

 David K0LUM

 At 7:17 AM -0500 1/21/10, Jim Miller wrote:
In many US homes the utility ground is found inside the home as it is a
ground rod embedded in the poured concrete foundation immediately below the
power panel.

73

jim ab3cv


thanks and 73's
Tom Kenville  --  W6TJK
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Re: [Elecraft] W2 assembly

2010-01-21 Thread Radio Amateur N5GE
On Thu, 21 Jan 2010 20:46:53 -0600, Randy Farmer w...@tx.rr.com
wrote:

When you remove the paint from around a hole the way you described you
will remove paint below the mating surfaces of the panels, not from
the mating surfaces that need to be bonded together.

You must remove the paint from the surface surrounding the holes to
get an effective bond.

Half inch drill bits are used a lot for deburring, but if you get
caught doing that in a factory that builds aircraft parts, you will
get a reprimand because you may nick the edges of the hole and stand a
chance of causing a crack that will extend from the hole into the
sheet metal and perhaps eventually causing a structural failure.

Sand paper or a wire brush is a better way to remove paint from
surfaces that need to be bonded together.

73,

Tom, N5GE

n...@n5ge.com
K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6,
XV144, XV432, KRC2,
W1, 2 W2's and other small kits

1 K144XV on order

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

I'm not sure whether you need to remove paint on the inside or the 
outside of the panel surface to assemble the W2. If it's an inside 
job where looks don't really matter, if you have access to a really 
large drill bit (say 1/2 or better) you can simply center it in the 
hole and twirl it a couple of times. This will remove the paint, and 
a bit of metal, around the periphery of the hole. This technique also 
works well as a quick and dirty deburring tool for holes drilled in 
sheet metal.

73...
Randy, W8FN
[snip]

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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning Protection articles

2010-01-21 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Don,

The KB2UYT articles from 2002 mentions a perimeter ring, but gives no  
real details as to the construction and installation of the ring.  An  
article by KD7PEI in the 8/2008 QST gives more details, but still  
fails to answer some questions such as:

How far away from the building foundation can the ring be?  Obviously  
closer means less material needed, but can it be TOO close?  Can it be  
too far?

How do you deal with concrete sidewalks, concrete driveways, stone  
patios, or other obstacles that prevent you from placing the ring  
close to the foundation?  (KB2UYT does say that A perimeter ground  
that only goes three-quarters or half-way around the house is better  
than no perimeter ground at all.  But would it be better to get a  
complete ring with parts of it 20' away from the foundation, or a  
partial ring 3' away?)

Is there a recommended vertical separation between the ring conductor  
and other underground pipes and wires?

If you have time and are so inclined, could you perhaps tell us more  
about the ring you installed, the materials you used, and how you went  
about the installation?

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Jan 21, 2010, at 3:56 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 ARRL Archives has the best one I know about.  It was a 3 part
 publication run in June, July and August of 2002.
 Author is W. Ronald Block, KB2UYT and carries the title of Lightning
 Protection for the Amateur Radio Station.
 Download the 3 .PDF files - they have pictures and diagrams.

 That is the guidelines I used to constructed my system.  I consider  
 this
 an authoritative source, and I have not seen one since that covered  
 all
 aspects.
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[Elecraft] pink?

2010-01-21 Thread Chris Meagher
pink? I don't think sew
pink is not the new black
to those sewing seeds of pink think,
its time for end of thread.

Chris VK2ACD
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