Re: [Elecraft] P3 Frequency display

2011-03-28 Thread Julian, G4ILO

Alan Bloom wrote:
 
 I think the PowerMate must be using UP and DN commands to tune the K3 up
 and down.  Currently the K3 does not send updated frequency information
 to the P3 when receiving those commands.  This is on Wayne's bug list.
 

Yes, that's exactly what it (or rather KTune) does.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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[Elecraft] Not hearing signals in K2 with EC2 enclosure KPA100/KAT100 combo

2011-03-28 Thread Brian Pepperdine

On the weekend, I picked up  a nice K2 set - a K2 with internal tuner and 
battery, plus the remoting of the
KAT100 and KPA100 built into an EC2 enclosure.

All set up for QRP in  field/portabl/patio or full 100 watts in the shack.



But an odd thing... this all came from a very reliable ham (a techical guy of 
long standing circa. 1957 onward) and it was 
built according to the KK7P web page guidelines, with a printout of Lyle's 
pages on this from the web site.

It does NOT hear RF signals when in the paired mode with amp/tuner connected.
I have it set up as per the photos.. with DB9 cable between the I/O Aux jacks 
on the PA/KAT and the base K2, and antenna attaches to ANT 1 UHF jack on the 
PA/KAT box.

I hear RF fine if I put the antenna line on the basic K2 BNC Antenna 1 jack, 
but nothing heard in the full setup.

I read the pages.. it seems the K2 is to have the tuner set at CAL from what I 
read, but whether in CAL or in Auto.. I still get nothing heard.

I am assuming the RF somehow, somewhere passes from the K2 to the PA/KAT via 
this IO Aux line?

Any ideas...?

I figured it would be all ready to go.. sort of direct from his shack table 
onto mine, but something seems amiss.

tnx
Brien
VE3VAW
  
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] A LiFePO4 internal battery option

2011-03-28 Thread Chip Stratton
I've been using the Powergenix NiZn cells too, and they do give a usefully
higher pack voltage than even the Energizer Lithium AA cells. They are not
as easy to manage as Nimh  cells, however. You have to use the supplied
charger with them, which seems not to initiate recharging unless the cell is
significantly drained. This makes it hard to keep them topped up. It also
seems to be hard to discover the state of a given cell since the open
circuit voltage does not fall much when nearing depletion. Their total
capacity under load appears to be quite a bit less than their ratings.
Basically there isn't enough information about their characteristics or
charging requirements to manage them optimally. Maybe that will change with
time, but they don't seem to be catching on, since I've found them at
Tuesday Morning stores, which seems to be where many failing products go
to die.

Chip
AE5KA

On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 12:30 AM, Leigh L. Klotz Jr WA5ZNU le...@wa5znu.org
 wrote:

 Those are 6.6v, so I guess you use a pair?

 I've been using LiFePO4 in a lot of things, but haven't seen these that fit
 in the KX1.  At 700mAH they're a bit small, but the constant operating
 voltage is nice.

 You might take a look at these, which are available at Fry's and Amazon:
 http://www.powergenix.com/?q=products/nizn-quick-charger

 At 1.8v charged you get almost 11v out of 6 of them in the existing AA
 slots.  Of course, you have to remove them to charge. The self discharge
 isn't as good as LiFePO4 but it's not bad either.

 Leigh/WA5ZNU


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Re: [Elecraft] Not hearing signals in K2 with EC2 enclosure KPA100/KAT100 combo

2011-03-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Brian,

Do you have a BNC cable between the QRP antenna jack (or ANT1 of the 
KAT2) and the RF in jack of the KAT100?  That is where the RF must flow 
- RF does not flow on any of the lines in the AUX I/O cable.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/28/2011 8:28 AM, Brian Pepperdine wrote:
 On the weekend, I picked up  a nice K2 set - a K2 with internal tuner and 
 battery, plus the remoting of the
 KAT100 and KPA100 built into an EC2 enclosure.

 All set up for QRP in  field/portabl/patio or full 100 watts in the shack.



 But an odd thing... this all came from a very reliable ham (a techical guy of 
 long standing circa. 1957 onward) and it was
 built according to the KK7P web page guidelines, with a printout of Lyle's 
 pages on this from the web site.

 It does NOT hear RF signals when in the paired mode with amp/tuner connected.
 I have it set up as per the photos.. with DB9 cable between the I/O Aux jacks 
 on the PA/KAT and the base K2, and antenna attaches to ANT 1 UHF jack on the 
 PA/KAT box.

 I hear RF fine if I put the antenna line on the basic K2 BNC Antenna 1 jack, 
 but nothing heard in the full setup.

 I read the pages.. it seems the K2 is to have the tuner set at CAL from what 
 I read, but whether in CAL or in Auto.. I still get nothing heard.

 I am assuming the RF somehow, somewhere passes from the K2 to the PA/KAT via 
 this IO Aux line?

 Any ideas...?

 I figured it would be all ready to go.. sort of direct from his shack table 
 onto mine, but something seems amiss.

 tnx
 Brien
 VE3VAW
   
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] A LiFePO4 internal battery option

2011-03-28 Thread Ignacy
 have lower energy density than regular Li-Ion rechargeables but due to lower
voltage one can use 4 of them for about 14 V max as opposed to 3 of the
regular ones with 12V max. For K1 the 3 Li-Ion would be a better fit as
10-12V is sufficient and weight is half of  LiFePO3. The last one are better
IMHO when the minimum voltage is 11V, e.g., for regular HF radios including
K3. 

I have the regular Li batteries in K2 for many years and never a problem
except higher Ah at 1/4 weight of lead acid.. The only trouble is a need for
connecting to an external charger. A simple choice is a small board that
attaches to a laptop charger and contains adjustable 1A regulator. 

Ignacy, NO9E 

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[Elecraft] [K2] SSB Failure

2011-03-28 Thread W4CU
I bought a used K2/100, at the end of last year.  (Serial 5540 -  K2 MCU 
2.04P, K2 IOC 1.09, KSB2  1.08, KPA100  1.10).  I mostly use CW but do 
need SSB at times.  SSB had been working fine but recently RF output  
starts out fine - folks reply to my calls - but it then fades out to 
zero after about 2 minutes of use.   The same thing happens whether I'm 
running 100 watts or 5.  If I turn the rig off for ten minutes or so it 
will again show  full output but again fades quickly to zero.  I can 
still get full output on CW even after this happens.  If anyone has any 
thoughts on simple things I might check, please let me know.  Thanks - 
Tom W4CU
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Re: [Elecraft] Is DVR audio really getting equalized and compressed?

2011-03-28 Thread K1LI
Barry,

I believe that the sound that gets to your ears through your head limits the
use of the headphone monitor when judging the quality of your transmitted
audio. A good example of this is how different your own voice sounds when
you hear it on a tape recorder.

Brian K1LI

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Re: [Elecraft] Is DVR audio really getting equalized and compressed?

2011-03-28 Thread Dale Putnam

Monitor audio, can be used very effectively for many, non critical adjustments, 
however, the near to same time hearing of what you say vs what your 
headphones say... can, with some folks cause a bit of confusion, or 
distortion of the facts. 
If critical measurements need be made, one suggestion would be use a scope. The 
compression, and equalization can be measured effectively, and one can stay 
clear away from not nice things like splatter and too wide complaints.
Have a great day, 

--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy


 
 Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 07:13:00 -0700
 From: nekvts...@gmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is DVR audio really getting equalized and compressed?
 
 Barry,
 
 I believe that the sound that gets to your ears through your head limits the
 use of the headphone monitor when judging the quality of your transmitted
 audio. A good example of this is how different your own voice sounds when
 you hear it on a tape recorder.
 
 Brian K1LI
 
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[Elecraft] PLL Control Voltage Range

2011-03-28 Thread Kenneth Moorman
I have been having some flakey operation with the main receiver in SN 1292
recently which I believe I have cured for the moment by re-calibrating the
main VCO.  As suggested in the manual, I have been observing the PLL control
voltages on the VFO B display.  Depending on the band, it is varying from a
low of about 1.5 volts to about 5.1 volts.  I also notice that there is
sometime a rather large difference between the PLL1 and PLL2 control
voltages (about 2 volts) on a given band, but not in all cases.  These
voltages do not change much over several tens of KHz tuning on any given
band.  Do these values and actions sound reasonable?   I don't recall seeing
a table of acceptable PLL 1/2 control voltage ranges by band. Thanks for any
insight,

Ken, NU4I

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Re: [Elecraft] Is DVR audio really getting equalized and compressed?

2011-03-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
  One way to avoid that hearing problem is to record your voice on an 
external device (computer, tape recorder, etc.) and then play the 
recording (using line in on the K3 rather than a microphone) to be able 
to listen to the monitor and make your evaluations and/or equalization 
and compression adjustments.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/28/2011 10:13 AM, K1LI wrote:
 Barry,

 I believe that the sound that gets to your ears through your head limits the
 use of the headphone monitor when judging the quality of your transmitted
 audio. A good example of this is how different your own voice sounds when
 you hear it on a tape recorder.

 Brian K1LI

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Re: [Elecraft] PLL Control Voltage Range

2011-03-28 Thread John Lemay
Ken

I can only comment on my own K3 which does not have a second receiver.
Variations from 1.5 to 5v are entirely normal - you are observing the
voltage on the voltage controlled oscillator. You will see it change
gradually as you tune across a band, and then jump as you step to another
band (these are the bands covered by the VCO which are not the same as
amateur or broadcast bands).

Without a second rx, my PLL2 always shows 0.0. Common sense tells me that
PLL2 in your case should be similar but not necessarily the same.

Regards

John G4ZTR

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Kenneth Moorman
Sent: 28 March 2011 15:45
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] PLL Control Voltage Range

I have been having some flakey operation with the main receiver in SN 1292
recently which I believe I have cured for the moment by re-calibrating the
main VCO.  As suggested in the manual, I have been observing the PLL control
voltages on the VFO B display.  Depending on the band, it is varying from a
low of about 1.5 volts to about 5.1 volts.  I also notice that there is
sometime a rather large difference between the PLL1 and PLL2 control
voltages (about 2 volts) on a given band, but not in all cases.  These
voltages do not change much over several tens of KHz tuning on any given
band.  Do these values and actions sound reasonable?   I don't recall seeing
a table of acceptable PLL 1/2 control voltage ranges by band. Thanks for any
insight,

Ken, NU4I

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] SSB Failure

2011-03-28 Thread Bill
First place to start when trouble shooting is the power supply.  Check the
voltage as the problem begins to occur.  If the receiver works when not
transmitting it could be recovering enough to keep the radio running.  

Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of W4CU
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2011 8:56 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [K2] SSB Failure

I bought a used K2/100, at the end of last year.  (Serial 5540 -  K2 MCU
2.04P, K2 IOC 1.09, KSB2  1.08, KPA100  1.10).  I mostly use CW but do need
SSB at times.  SSB had been working fine but recently RF output starts out
fine - folks reply to my calls - but it then fades out to 
zero after about 2 minutes of use.   The same thing happens whether I'm 
running 100 watts or 5.  If I turn the rig off for ten minutes or so it will
again show  full output but again fades quickly to zero.  I can still get
full output on CW even after this happens.  If anyone has any thoughts on
simple things I might check, please let me know.  Thanks - Tom W4CU
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] SSB Failure

2011-03-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Tom,

My first suspicion is that the ALC is continually building as you 
speak.  You should be able to confirm that by switching the LED bargraph 
display to indicate ALC - if the ALC meter does decrease between voice 
peaks, but slowly builds up, you should see it on the bargraph.

A bad solder connection on one of the ALC components on the KSB2 board 
would cause that behavior.  Look at the lower left corner of the KSB2 
schematic to identify which components are involved.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/28/2011 9:55 AM, W4CU wrote:
 I bought a used K2/100, at the end of last year.  (Serial 5540 -  K2 MCU
 2.04P, K2 IOC 1.09, KSB2  1.08, KPA100  1.10).  I mostly use CW but do
 need SSB at times.  SSB had been working fine but recently RF output
 starts out fine - folks reply to my calls - but it then fades out to
 zero after about 2 minutes of use.   The same thing happens whether I'm
 running 100 watts or 5.  If I turn the rig off for ten minutes or so it
 will again show  full output but again fades quickly to zero.  I can
 still get full output on CW even after this happens.  If anyone has any
 thoughts on simple things I might check, please let me know.  Thanks -
 Tom W4CU
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[Elecraft] [K3] LDG Z-11ProII as remote tuner with K3?

2011-03-28 Thread William Ravenel
I need a remote tuner setup for an inverted-L antenna and am considering a 
battery powered LDG Z-11ProII. I like the compact size and QRP capability of 
this tuner. Does anyone have any experience with this tuner used remotely or 
have any other suggestions that I should look into?

Thanks - Will, AI4VE
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[Elecraft] K3 Sub Rcvr S-Meter Reads Full Scale

2011-03-28 Thread W6NEK
Hi All,
I just noticed that if I turn on my Sub Receiver and enter b SET mode my 
S-Meter displays full scale (+60 db).  The Sub Receiver is fully operational 
with full sensitivity.  The RF Gain Control also works normally as far as 
receive sensitivity is concerned.  However, the full scale S-Meter display 
would lead one to think the RF Gain Control is fully off (counterclockwise, 
which it is not).  Is anyone else seeing this kind of behavor?  Maybe this 
is explained in the Manual and I overlooked it, but it sure seems strange to 
me.

Thanks for your feedback,
Frank - W6NEK

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[Elecraft] beat freq method

2011-03-28 Thread jrstorms
Trying to set the freq cal for the reference using method 2 since I do not
have a freq counter.  I may be tone deaf or something but I am not sure what
the beat-freq sounds like.  Wish someone would post or send a sound file
demonstrating the beat freq when off, close and good sounds like.  I tried
setting it on 15mhz and thought I was close but when listening to WWV on
10mhz had to go down 300 hz to understand the voice transmission.  Also
15mhz voice was fuzzy until I tuned off freq about 100hz.  Guess I am
confused at this point.  I do understand that this really just adjusts vfo's
so when at band edges I do not go out of band.  However when using DX spots
with N3FJP auto tune clicks I am off freq.  Have to dial around to get clear
signal so if I don't then they do not hear my calls well.  Am sending this
message to K3 support a well but appreciate any responses from the
community.

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[Elecraft] K3/100/F

2011-03-28 Thread Scott McDowell
Hello
This is my first message to this reflector, so if I mess things up don't be 
supprised.
I have some questions about the K3/100/F. I just ordered one and will not have 
it for a
couple weeks. Is there any gotchas that I need to know about before I start 
messing
around with it? The only accessory I order with it is the internal antenna 
tunner.
I have never even seen one except in pictures, but like the things I hear about 
it.
I have had four K2's in the past and it looks like the K3 is totally different 
from that.
So any information about it will be new to me!
73
Scott N5SM
 
 


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Sub Rcvr S-Meter Reads Full Scale

2011-03-28 Thread GDanner
Frank - Nope on 2412.
Mine works normally.
George
AI4VZ

. . . Sub Receiver and enter b SET mode my S-Meter displays full scale 
(+60 db)
. . . Is anyone else seeing this kind of behavor? 

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Re: [Elecraft] beat freq method

2011-03-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
  If your tone perception needs assistance, try using an audio spectrum 
analyzer on your computer - I use Spectrogram (download from Tom 
Hammond's website www.n0ss.net), but others like Specravue or Spectrum 
Lab will work just as well.

Tune in WWV - make certain you are tuned to the carrier - use CW mode 
(you will not be able to understand the voice in CW mode), and adjust 
the VFO so the carrier is quite near the audio pitch of your sidetone.  
Now turn on the sidetone, and adjust the AF gain so the sidetone level 
is about the same as the tuned carrier.  You will see both tones on the 
audio Spectral display - when they are close to each other, listen for 
the 3rd tone.  Its pitch will be the difference between the other two 
and results in a slow rising and falling in amplitude of the other two 
tones.  When that rising and falling slows to zero, that is zero beat.

Once you know what it sounds like, do the Ref Cal as indicated in the 
manual.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/28/2011 1:31 PM, jrstorms wrote:
 Trying to set the freq cal for the reference using method 2 since I do not
 have a freq counter.  I may be tone deaf or something but I am not sure what
 the beat-freq sounds like.  Wish someone would post or send a sound file
 demonstrating the beat freq when off, close and good sounds like.  I tried
 setting it on 15mhz and thought I was close but when listening to WWV on
 10mhz had to go down 300 hz to understand the voice transmission.  Also
 15mhz voice was fuzzy until I tuned off freq about 100hz.  Guess I am
 confused at this point.  I do understand that this really just adjusts vfo's
 so when at band edges I do not go out of band.  However when using DX spots
 with N3FJP auto tune clicks I am off freq.  Have to dial around to get clear
 signal so if I don't then they do not hear my calls well.  Am sending this
 message to K3 support a well but appreciate any responses from the
 community.

 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/beat-freq-method-tp6215961p6215961.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] beat freq method

2011-03-28 Thread Ingo Meyer, DK3RED
Hello jrstorms,

 Trying to set the freq cal for the reference using method 2 since I do not
 have a freq counter.  I may be tone deaf or something but I am not sure what
 the beat-freq sounds like.  Wish someone would post or send a sound file
 demonstrating the beat freq when off, close and good sounds like. ...

You could not hear a beat frequency. Noboby can hear it. But you can locate it. 
Turn your 
VFO/BFO slowly around the target frequency (up and down). If you VFO/BFO 
frequency was 
higher than the target frequency you can hear the tone/frequency goes lower and 
lower. At 
one point you can't hear it. If you turn the VFO/BFO in the same direction, so 
you can 
hear the tone/frequency again, but the frequency goes now higher. The area, at 
which you 
can't hear the tone, that is the beat frequency.
-- 
73/72 de Ingo, DK3RED - Don't forget: the fun is the power!
www.qrp4fun.de - dk3...@qrp4fun.de
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Sub Rcvr S-Meter Reads Full Scale

2011-03-28 Thread W6NEK
Thanks Dick and George,
Looks like I have a hardware problem and need to contact Elecraft Support.

I wanted to make sure that this wasn't normal before contacting them.

Many thanks for the feedback,
Frank - W6NEK

- Original Message - 
From: W6NEK w6...@socal.rr.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2011 9:28 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Sub Rcvr S-Meter Reads Full Scale


 Hi All,
 I just noticed that if I turn on my Sub Receiver and enter b SET mode my
 S-Meter displays full scale (+60 db).  The Sub Receiver is fully 
 operational
 with full sensitivity.  The RF Gain Control also works normally as far as
 receive sensitivity is concerned.  However, the full scale S-Meter display
 would lead one to think the RF Gain Control is fully off 
 (counterclockwise,
 which it is not).  Is anyone else seeing this kind of behavor?  Maybe this
 is explained in the Manual and I overlooked it, but it sure seems strange 
 to
 me.

 Thanks for your feedback,
 Frank - W6NEK

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[Elecraft] A comment about Receiving

2011-03-28 Thread Richard Fjeld
For me, receive capability was an important factor, among others, in the 
decision to buy an Elecraft. The model is irrelevant to this post. For years, I 
have been studying comments made about receiving, as opposed to those who think 
a radio is 'good to the last watt'. Recently, there was a rather lengthy thread 
about whether a K3 user was having receive problems or not.  I'd like to share 
an experience with the group.

Over the years, I have used coax fed antennas and lived with compromise SWR 
figures. I wanted an all-band antenna so I recently changed the 80 meter dipole 
so that it is center fed with homebrew 450 ohm ladder-line to a tuner. I use an 
MFJ Matchmaker (TM) to 'tune the tuner'.  While it puts out a white noise, I 
tune for minimum S-meter reading. When finished, a quick transmit reveals the 
SWR. 

One day while tuning close to optimum at the frequency I was on, and because I 
receive while I tune, I began to hear a weak CW signal. At first, I thought it 
had just come on frequency, but as I listened, I realized that the station had 
been in qso for awhile, but I didn't hear it until I reached optimum resonance 
with the tuner. I knew a resonant antenna was important, but I was surprised at 
the difference it could make in receiving. A good receiver is wasted if the 
signal doesn't get to it. 


Richard Fjeld, n0ce
rpfj...@embarqmail.com
I'd rather be learning.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100/F

2011-03-28 Thread n5ge

Howdy Scott,

If you've had K2's then you probably will get used to the K3 pretty quick.

Some suggestions:

Plug an antenna into the top antenna port on the back (antenna #1)

Turn the power on and start playing with it while you read the manual.  When you
see a control your not familiar with look it up in the manual and practice what
the manual say's with that control.

You can download the manual from here 
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K2%20Errata%20H-2.pdf

Browse it while youre waiting for the rig.  That will get you going and EXCITED
about the rig.

Tom
N5GE

On Mon, 28 Mar 2011 10:40:03 -0700 (PDT), Scott McDowell n...@yahoo.com wrote:

Hello
This is my first message to this reflector, so if I mess things up don't be 
supprised.
I have some questions about the K3/100/F. I just ordered one and will not have 
it for a
couple weeks. Is there any gotchas that I need to know about before I start 
messing
around with it? The only accessory I order with it is the internal antenna 
tunner.
I have never even seen one except in pictures, but like the things I hear 
about it.
I have had four K2's in the past and it looks like the K3 is totally different 
from that.
So any information about it will be new to me!
73
Scott N5SM
 
 


  
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[Elecraft] (no subject)

2011-03-28 Thread Russo, John
set authenticate ajax
set delivery off
end

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100/F

2011-03-28 Thread Sam Morgan
better make that the K3 link
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3%20Owner%27s%20man%20D9sm.pdf

and it's errata
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3%20Owner%27s%20man%20errata%20D9-1.pdf

GB  73
K5OAI
Sam Morgan

On 3/28/2011 1:09 PM, n...@n5ge.com wrote:

 Some suggestions:

 Plug an antenna into the top antenna port on the back (antenna #1)

 Turn the power on and start playing with it while you read the manual.  When
 you see a control your not familiar with look it up in the manual and
 practice what the manual say's with that control.

 You can download the manual from here
 http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K2%20Errata%20H-2.pdf

 Browse it while youre waiting for the rig.  That will get you going and
 EXCITED about the rig.

 Tom N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] beat freq method

2011-03-28 Thread ac5p
What you are doing (in CW mode) is matching the sidetone of the carrier to that 
of the K3 internal side tone.   You cant hear the beat tone when they are close 
together, BUT, when they are VERY close the tone VOLUME  will go up and 
down.  Going either side of zero beat the volume will rise and fall faster.  
You 
want to tune very slowly and get the RISE/FALL of volume level to a null in the 
middle.    Other freqs you can check your calibration is CHU at 7850.000 or 
14670.000 or at night 3330.000kHz.   Use CWT and SPOT while tuning the 
reference 
signal in the CW Mode.  With the freq. set to FINE, it will display the to 
nearest Hertz and you can see how close you got the reference oscillator.   AM 
signals will sound good when the tuned frequency (USB)  matches the carrier 
frequency.  


73,  Mike  AC5P




From: jrstorms jrsto...@hotmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Mon, March 28, 2011 12:31:40 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] beat freq method

Trying to set the freq cal for the reference using method 2 since I do not
have a freq counter.  I may be tone deaf or something but I am not sure what
the beat-freq sounds like.  Wish someone would post or send a sound file
demonstrating the beat freq when off, close and good sounds like.  I tried
setting it on 15mhz and thought I was close but when listening to WWV on
10mhz had to go down 300 hz to understand the voice transmission.  Also
15mhz voice was fuzzy until I tuned off freq about 100hz.  Guess I am
confused at this point.  I do understand that this really just adjusts vfo's
so when at band edges I do not go out of band.  However when using DX spots
with N3FJP auto tune clicks I am off freq.  Have to dial around to get clear
signal so if I don't then they do not hear my calls well.  Am sending this
message to K3 support a well but appreciate any responses from the
community.

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/beat-freq-method-tp6215961p6215961.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] A comment about Receiving

2011-03-28 Thread Robert Harmon
Rich,

Yes the tuner acts as a preselector and peaks up the signal. 
 
Years ago I wrote W6AM a letter asking him if he used an antenna tuner
with his rhombic antennas.  He replied that he did use a tuner but not so much
to improve the impedance match to the rhombics for transmit, (he had them tuned 
up pretty well)
but to act as a preselector to peak up the signals.  He went on to describe his 
setup, using Collins 75A4 receivers and a Johnson KW matchboxes.  He said the
big Johnson KW matchbox, not the smaller one, was very effective at peaking up 
the 
received signal.  I was convinced that the tuner was a a good thing to have in 
line 
for receive if he had receive enhancement using the tuner with his big rhombics 
!


Bob
K6UJ


 
On Mar 28, 2011, at 11:05 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:

 For me, receive capability was an important factor, among others, in the 
 decision to buy an Elecraft. The model is irrelevant to this post. For years, 
 I have been studying comments made about receiving, as opposed to those who 
 think a radio is 'good to the last watt'. Recently, there was a rather 
 lengthy thread about whether a K3 user was having receive problems or not.  
 I'd like to share an experience with the group.
 
 Over the years, I have used coax fed antennas and lived with compromise SWR 
 figures. I wanted an all-band antenna so I recently changed the 80 meter 
 dipole so that it is center fed with homebrew 450 ohm ladder-line to a tuner. 
 I use an MFJ Matchmaker (TM) to 'tune the tuner'.  While it puts out a white 
 noise, I tune for minimum S-meter reading. When finished, a quick transmit 
 reveals the SWR. 
 
 One day while tuning close to optimum at the frequency I was on, and because 
 I receive while I tune, I began to hear a weak CW signal. At first, I thought 
 it had just come on frequency, but as I listened, I realized that the station 
 had been in qso for awhile, but I didn't hear it until I reached optimum 
 resonance with the tuner. I knew a resonant antenna was important, but I was 
 surprised at the difference it could make in receiving. A good receiver is 
 wasted if the signal doesn't get to it. 
 
 
 Richard Fjeld, n0ce
 rpfj...@embarqmail.com
 I'd rather be learning.
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] A comment about Receiving

2011-03-28 Thread Dale Parfitt

How does the preselector know to peak up the RX signal and not also peak up 
the noise?

Dale W4OP

 Rich,

 Yes the tuner acts as a preselector and peaks up the signal.

 Years ago I wrote W6AM a letter asking him if he used an antenna tuner
 with his rhombic antennas.  He replied that he did use a tuner but not so 
 much
 to improve the impedance match to the rhombics for transmit, (he had them 
 tuned up pretty well)
 but to act as a preselector to peak up the signals.  He went on to 
 describe his
 setup, using Collins 75A4 receivers and a Johnson KW matchboxes.  He said 
 the
 big Johnson KW matchbox, not the smaller one, was very effective at 
 peaking up the
 received signal.  I was convinced that the tuner was a a good thing to 
 have in line
 for receive if he had receive enhancement using the tuner with his big 
 rhombics !


 Bob
 K6UJ



 On Mar 28, 2011, at 11:05 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:

 For me, receive capability was an important factor, among others, in the 
 decision to buy an Elecraft. The model is irrelevant to this post. For 
 years, I have been studying comments made about receiving, as opposed to 
 those who think a radio is 'good to the last watt'. Recently, there was a 
 rather lengthy thread about whether a K3 user was having receive problems 
 or not.  I'd like to share an experience with the group.

 Over the years, I have used coax fed antennas and lived with compromise 
 SWR figures. I wanted an all-band antenna so I recently changed the 80 
 meter dipole so that it is center fed with homebrew 450 ohm ladder-line 
 to a tuner. I use an MFJ Matchmaker (TM) to 'tune the tuner'.  While it 
 puts out a white noise, I tune for minimum S-meter reading. When 
 finished, a quick transmit reveals the SWR.

 One day while tuning close to optimum at the frequency I was on, and 
 because I receive while I tune, I began to hear a weak CW signal. At 
 first, I thought it had just come on frequency, but as I listened, I 
 realized that the station had been in qso for awhile, but I didn't hear 
 it until I reached optimum resonance with the tuner. I knew a resonant 
 antenna was important, but I was surprised at the difference it could 
 make in receiving. A good receiver is wasted if the signal doesn't get to 
 it.


 Richard Fjeld, n0ce
 rpfj...@embarqmail.com
 I'd rather be learning.


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02:34:00

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3}beat freq method

2011-03-28 Thread Scott Ellington
It seems there's a common misconception that one has to have some sense of 
musical pitch to use this method.  Especially with the K3, using CWT, it's 
completely unnecessary.  If you can hear the volume (not the pitch) of the tone 
going up and down, that's all you need.   Using an oscilloscope, you wouldn't 
have to hear at all.


Here is the procedure I recommend:

1.  Select fine VFO resolution (1 Hz).

2.  Select CW mode and set bandwidth to 500 Hz.  (You don't have to have a CW 
xtal filter.)

3.  If using WWV, do the calibration only when the carrier is unmodulated.  If 
you try it when there are audio tones, you may end up tuning to one of the 
sidebands.

4.  Using CWT, tune to the calibration signal.  This will get you very close to 
zero beat.

5.  Locate CONFIG:REF CAL.

6.  Tap SPOT to enable the sidetone, and adjust its level to be about the same 
as that of the signal.  You should hear the beat, a fluctuation in volume.   
If necessary, adjust the sidetone level for the strongest beat.  (If you can't 
hear it when adjusting the sidetone level, shift the VFO a few Hz.)  Tune the 
VFO for the slowest possible fluctuation, probably less than 1 per second.

7.  Note the VFO display frequency. If it isn't within 1 Hz of the calibration 
signal, adjust the REF CAL frequency in small increments, always retuning the 
VFO for zero beat as above, until the VFO display reads with 1 Hz of the 
calibration frequency. 

8.  Using the K3 utility, save the configuration.  (Or record the REF CAL 
value.)

9.  Cancel SPOT and exit the menu.


Note to Wayne and Eric:  Feel free to use this.



73,

Scott  K9MA


 
 On 3/28/2011 1:31 PM, jrstorms wrote:
 Trying to set the freq cal for the reference using method 2 since I do not
 have a freq counter.  I may be tone deaf or something but I am not sure what
 the beat-freq sounds like.  Wish someone would post or send a sound file
 demonstrating the beat freq when off, close and good sounds like.  I tried
 setting it on 15mhz and thought I was close but when listening to WWV on
 10mhz had to go down 300 hz to understand the voice transmission.  Also
 15mhz voice was fuzzy until I tuned off freq about 100hz.  Guess I am
 confused at this point.  I do understand that this really just adjusts vfo's
 so when at band edges I do not go out of band.  However when using DX spots
 with N3FJP auto tune clicks I am off freq.  Have to dial around to get clear
 signal so if I don't then they do not hear my calls well.  Am sending this
 message to K3 support a well but appreciate any responses from the
 community.
 

Scott Ellington
Madison, Wisconsin
USA



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Re: [Elecraft] beat freq method

2011-03-28 Thread FredJensen
A couple of hints:

1.  You must be in CW mode with three digits showing to the right of the 
decimal point in the freq display.  It helps a lot to narrow the WIDTH 
to 200 Hz or even less.  You won't hear [or at least be able to 
understand] the voice announcements, and the second ticks will sound 
strange.  Set VFO A to the exact WWV frequency [e.g. 15.000.000] in the 
display.  I suggest you start this whole procedure during one of the 
minutes when WWV does *not* have the tone on, assuring you are listening 
to the CW beat note from the carrier.  If you are close and your BW is 
less than 200 Hz, you may not hear the tone when it comes back on.

2.  You turn on the sidetone by doing a HOLD on the MON knob [CMP 
PWR]  You'll hear the sidetone at whatever you have the PITCH set to.

3.  The knob now adjusts the level of the sidetone in your phones.  For 
this to work, that level needs to be approximately equal to the level of 
WWV in your phones.  You can equalize them with either the MON knob or 
the AF gain, or both.

4.  When you're in CONFIG:REF CAL, as you tune VFO A, the pitch of WWV 
will vary, the sidetone will remain constant.  Your goal is to get WWV 
exactly the same pitch as your continuous sidetone.  If it is a bit off, 
you may actually hear the very low beat note.  If it is close, you'll 
hear the combined audio signals fading up and down rather than a beat 
note.  That fading *is* the beat note but it's too low a frequency to 
hear it as a tone.

5.  As you close in on a match between WWV and your sidetone, the in and 
out fading will slow down, almost stop, and then begin to speed up again 
as you move past zero beat.  It takes a bit as you are right at the zero 
beat point to find the absolute slowest in and out fading.

6.  Although you can't tell when your K3 is in FINE tuning rate, the 
frequency is moving step-wise when you tune.  You'll find as you 
approach zero beat, the in and out fading will slow, and then speed up a 
tiny bit, most likely never really stopping.  That's because one DDS 
tuning step was just a tad below exact, and the next DDS step was just a 
tad above exact.  Pick the step with the slowest rate.  If you actually 
get the in and out fading to stop, you should buy a Power Ball ticket 
immediately :-)

7.  The fading you hear is actually the individual cycles of the beat 
note.  When you're very close, you can count the number of peaks in 
some period, say 30 sec, and divide that count by the length of the 
period you used [in seconds].  The quotient is the beat note frequency.  
Mine is about 0.1 Hz which translates to 0.1 Hz frequency error when 
receiving.

8.  Use the highest frequency WWV you can hear.  Even without the KBPF3, 
I could hear 2.5 [at night], 5 [most of the time], and 15 and 20 during 
the day.

For the record, I've done this several times figuring the K3 will 
drift.  So far, I cannot detect any drift and my REF CAL frequency 
hasn't changed since I first calibrated.  Be sure your K3 FP temp has 
stabilized before starting [tap DISP and use VFO B to find FP followed 
by a temp].

OK, I lied, that's 8 hints and one hint-let.

73,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA

On 3/28/2011 5:45 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Tune in WWV - make certain you are tuned to the carrier - use CW mode
 (you will not be able to understand the voice in CW mode), and adjust
 the VFO so the carrier is quite near the audio pitch of your sidetone.
 Now turn on the sidetone, and adjust the AF gain so the sidetone level

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Re: [Elecraft] beat freq method

2011-03-28 Thread Scott Ellington
This brings up an interesting point, though it doesn't affect the method at 
all.  The beat Fred refers to results from adding of the sidetone to the 
signal tone:  When they happen to be in phase, the volume goes up 6 dB, when 
they are exactly out of phase they cancel, so you hear the volume go up and 
down.  It is a completely linear process.

This is not what produces the sum and difference beat frequencies in a mixer, 
which requires nonlinearity or multiplication.  If you look at the audio coming 
out of a receiver with a spectrum analyzer, with two audio tones present, you 
will see only those two frequencies, not sum and difference frequencies.   
(Except for some tiny traces due to inevitable distortion.)   

So, for example, if you tune in a signal for a 400 Hz tone, and the sidetone is 
600 Hz, you will NOT hear a 200 Hz beat, unless you turn the volume up so high 
that your receiver and/or ears produce distortion products.   (Don't do that!)  
When you get close, though, you will hear that fluctuation in volume, which we 
can use to match frequencies.

73,

Scott  K9MA


On Mar 28, 2011, at 2:18 PM, FredJensen wrote:

 If it is close, you'll 
 hear the combined audio signals fading up and down rather than a beat 
 note.  That fading *is* the beat note but it's too low a frequency to 
 hear it as a tone.

Scott Ellington
Madison, Wisconsin
USA



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Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training

2011-03-28 Thread Karl Marderian
C
Cd

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 25, 2011, at 4:52 PM, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote:

 *Ken..the FW will reverse it too.*
 *
 *
 *Gary
 *
 On 26 March 2011 09:49, Ken - K0PP kengk...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 Thumb on right paddle makes dits.
 
 Have a left-handed guest op?  Suggest turning paddles
 around backwards and reach over the top.  (:-))
 
 73!
 Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@gmail.com
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 -- 
 
 *VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
 Elecraft Equipment
 K3 #679, KPA-500 #018
 Living the dream!!!*
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100/F

2011-03-28 Thread Gary Gregory
*Scott,*
*
*
*Did you order a microphone with the K3*
*
*
*I didn't and had to scramble around looking for a Kenwood wired
microphone..:-)*
*
*
*Enjoy*
*
*
*73's*
*Gary
*
On 29 March 2011 04:29, Sam Morgan k5oai@gmail.com wrote:

 better make that the K3 link
 http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3%20Owner%27s%20man%20D9sm.pdf

 and it's errata
 http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3%20Owner%27s%20man%20errata%20D9-1.pdf

 GB  73
 K5OAI
 Sam Morgan

 On 3/28/2011 1:09 PM, n...@n5ge.com wrote:

  Some suggestions:
 
  Plug an antenna into the top antenna port on the back (antenna #1)
 
  Turn the power on and start playing with it while you read the manual.
  When
  you see a control your not familiar with look it up in the manual and
  practice what the manual say's with that control.
 
  You can download the manual from here
  http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K2%20Errata%20H-2.pdf
 
  Browse it while youre waiting for the rig.  That will get you going and
  EXCITED about the rig.
 
  Tom N5GE
 
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-- 

*VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
Elecraft Equipment
K3 #679, KPA-500 #018
Living the dream!!!*
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Re: [Elecraft] Not hearing signals in K2 with EC2 enclosure KPA100/KAT100 combo

2011-03-28 Thread Lou Voerman W2ROW
Hi - this may be obvious and if so - sorry.

You need two RF cables (plus the antenna cable itself) to make this work.
First a BNC to BNC cable goes from the K2 ANT1 jack to the AUX RF jack on
the rear panel of the KAT100 this provides an RF path from the K2 to the
KPA100 via an internal (to the KAT100/KPA100 box) coax. You also need a
PL259 to PL259 cable from the ANT.(50ohm) jack on the KPA100 to the RF IN
jack on the KAT100. This connects the ouput of the KPA100 to the input of
the KAT100. Now you can connect the antenna to the PL259 ANT1 jack on the
KAT100.

Of course you also need to power the K2 via it normal power jack and the
KAT100/KPA100 box via the Anderson Power Pole connector on the KPA100.

You mentioned that you have the control cable connected between the K2 and
the external box.

Hope this helps - I built and use this combination all the time.

Lou  W2ROW

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Not-hearing-signals-in-K2-with-EC2-enclosure-KPA100-KAT100-combo-tp6214719p6216683.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Question about the K2

2011-03-28 Thread Eric Champine
Hi all.
Just a few days ago I just realized you could build the K2 as a complete QRP
setup and then add the KAT100-2/KPA100 in the EC2 custom enclosure to make
it a QRO rig.
Wow. Very cool. I was thinking about building a K2-100 and a K2 so I would
have a rig for both occasions. Now I find out that I can have just one K2
setup to do both if I am reading this correctly. LOL. I always wanted to
know why people would want to put the KAT100 in a large case. Now I know
why. What my question is, is it OK to have the internal QRP tuner in at the
same time that I have it hooked up to the KAT100-2/KPA100 or does the
internal tuner have to be taken out to use the KAT100-2/KPA100 add-on?
This is really going to be a very cool setup for me because I love to go out
on weekends and do QRP work and during the weekdays work traffic nets where
I need more power most of the time. This seems the best of both worlds to me
and now I only have to build one K2 and save a lot of cash.
It's funny. I have been watching this reflector for a while now and it isn't
till now that I just found out that this was an option.
Does anyone have any experience with this setup and how they like it or have
any suggestions?
Thanks for your time.

73 de W2EEC

Eric
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about the K2

2011-03-28 Thread Andrew Moore
 What my question is, is it OK to have the internal QRP tuner in at the
same time that I have it hooked up to the KAT100-2/KPA100 or does the
internal tuner have to be taken out to use the KAT100-2/KPA100 add-on?

Yes, it's okay to keep it there.  When using the QRO tuner (in the remote
case), just put the QRP tuner (KAT2) into bypass mode.

--Andrew, NV1B
..
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100/F

2011-03-28 Thread n5ge

AW Shoot Sam!

Thanks for straightening that out!

Tom
N5GE

On Mon, 28 Mar 2011 13:29:29 -0500, Sam Morgan k5oai@gmail.com wrote:

better make that the K3 link
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3%20Owner%27s%20man%20D9sm.pdf

and it's errata
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3%20Owner%27s%20man%20errata%20D9-1.pdf

GB  73
K5OAI
Sam Morgan

On 3/28/2011 1:09 PM, n...@n5ge.com wrote:

 Some suggestions:

 Plug an antenna into the top antenna port on the back (antenna #1)

 Turn the power on and start playing with it while you read the manual.  When
 you see a control your not familiar with look it up in the manual and
 practice what the manual say's with that control.

 You can download the manual from here
 http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K2%20Errata%20H-2.pdf

 Browse it while youre waiting for the rig.  That will get you going and
 EXCITED about the rig.

 Tom N5GE

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[Elecraft] K3 Sub Rcvr S-Meter Reads Full Scale - Fixed

2011-03-28 Thread W6NEK
Hi All,
I just want to follow up on my Sub Rcvr S-Meter issue.
I sent a email to K3support at elecraft.com.
I got a response from Gary Surrency within an hour.  He suggested I re-run 
the Calibrate RF Gain procedure in the K3 Utility.  Using my trusty XG-1 and 
the K3 Utility both receiver S-Meters were calibrated within a few minutes. 
Fast and easy fix!

As always, Elecraft support is quick to respond.  Outstanding service and 
support.  Thanks again Gary!

Thanks for the bandwidth,
Frank - W6NEK
K3 S/N 312

- Original Message - 
From: W6NEK w6...@socal.rr.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2011 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Sub Rcvr S-Meter Reads Full Scale


 Thanks Dick and George,
 Looks like I have a hardware problem and need to contact Elecraft Support.

 I wanted to make sure that this wasn't normal before contacting them.

 Many thanks for the feedback,
 Frank - W6NEK

 - Original Message - 
 From: W6NEK w6...@socal.rr.com
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, March 28, 2011 9:28 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Sub Rcvr S-Meter Reads Full Scale


 Hi All,
 I just noticed that if I turn on my Sub Receiver and enter b SET mode 
 my
 S-Meter displays full scale (+60 db).  The Sub Receiver is fully
 operational
 with full sensitivity.  The RF Gain Control also works normally as far as
 receive sensitivity is concerned.  However, the full scale S-Meter 
 display
 would lead one to think the RF Gain Control is fully off
 (counterclockwise,
 which it is not).  Is anyone else seeing this kind of behavor?  Maybe 
 this
 is explained in the Manual and I overlooked it, but it sure seems strange
 to
 me.

 Thanks for your feedback,
 Frank - W6NEK

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 -
 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1498/3535 - Release Date: 03/28/11
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Question about the K2

2011-03-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Eric,

That setup works quite well.  I had it set up here until I got the K3 
and sold the KPA100/KAT100 combo - I will keep my K2 until it is pried 
from my cold dead hands, it is a Field Test model SN 00020.

When the K2 detects that the KPA100 is installed, it forces the KAT2 to 
bypass and ANT1 output.  They work quite well together.

Don't forget that your KAT100 must be the KAT100-2.  It has all the 
hooks required to plug in the KPA100 cables.  The AUX I/O 
communications cable is the same as that shown for the KAT100 and can 
plug into either the KAT100 or the KPA100.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/28/2011 4:51 PM, Eric Champine wrote:
 Hi all.
 Just a few days ago I just realized you could build the K2 as a complete QRP
 setup and then add the KAT100-2/KPA100 in the EC2 custom enclosure to make
 it a QRO rig.
 Wow. Very cool. I was thinking about building a K2-100 and a K2 so I would
 have a rig for both occasions. Now I find out that I can have just one K2
 setup to do both if I am reading this correctly. LOL. I always wanted to
 know why people would want to put the KAT100 in a large case. Now I know
 why. What my question is, is it OK to have the internal QRP tuner in at the
 same time that I have it hooked up to the KAT100-2/KPA100 or does the
 internal tuner have to be taken out to use the KAT100-2/KPA100 add-on?
 This is really going to be a very cool setup for me because I love to go out
 on weekends and do QRP work and during the weekdays work traffic nets where
 I need more power most of the time. This seems the best of both worlds to me
 and now I only have to build one K2 and save a lot of cash.
 It's funny. I have been watching this reflector for a while now and it isn't
 till now that I just found out that this was an option.
 Does anyone have any experience with this setup and how they like it or have
 any suggestions?
 Thanks for your time.

 73 de W2EEC

 Eric

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Re: [Elecraft] Question about the K2

2011-03-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Andrew,

Not even that complicated - the firmware does that automatically (and 
selects ANT1) when the presence of the KPA100 is detected.  No effort on 
the part of the user is required.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/28/2011 4:58 PM, Andrew Moore wrote:
 What my question is, is it OK to have the internal QRP tuner in at the
 same time that I have it hooked up to the KAT100-2/KPA100 or does the
 internal tuner have to be taken out to use the KAT100-2/KPA100 add-on?

 Yes, it's okay to keep it there.  When using the QRO tuner (in the remote
 case), just put the QRP tuner (KAT2) into bypass mode.

 --Andrew, NV1B

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Re: [Elecraft] Question about the K2

2011-03-28 Thread Andrew Moore
NV1B When using the QRO tuner (in the remote case), just put the QRP tuner
(KAT2) into bypass mode.

W3FPR Not even that complicated - the firmware does that automatically (and
selects ANT1) when the presence of the KPA100 is detected.  No effort on the
part of the user is required.

Even better.  I should have known Elecraft would have an Ele-gant solution.
 Kudos to the team.

--Andrew, NV1B
..
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[Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

2011-03-28 Thread Phil Townsend
Lightning question:

I have driven an 8 foot copper clad rod just out side my operating station. Its 
about 6 feet from the rod to my desk.
I have attached a solid copper wire (1/4 thick) to the ground post (with a 
ground rod clamp) The wire goes thru the wall and is bonded to a copper pipe 
that is 1-1/8 wide  that is just under the desk.

So on to my question:
What is the BEST way to connect my equipment (k3, SB-200 and a remote coax 
switch) to the copper pipe?

Coax braid  from RG8 or solid copper wire? and why


Thank You guys...

Phil
Santa Fe

soon to be a xx5SSR...
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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

2011-03-28 Thread Phil LaMarche
Phil,

I drove a copper pipe into the ground outside my shack and then put a 4 inch
copper strap to the pipe and brought it through the wall and sealed it off.
Then put a bolt and nut with large washers on the inside.  Each piece of
equipment has the same length braded material that goes to the nut and bolt.
Then outside, I took a number 4 wire and ran it from the pipe to the house
ground next to the mains coming in.  Along the way I added additional ground
rods.  I also took this wire to my tower which has 6 ground rods connected
to it.  I've had two strikes on my 70 ft tower and no damage inside. Heavy
enough to take out the traps of my Mosley PRO 67B but no equipment.

Phil 

Philip LaMarche
 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc
p...@lamarcheenterprises.com
www.LaMarcheEnterprises.com 
 
727-944-3226
727-937-8834 Fax
727-510-5038 Cell 
 
www.w9dvm.com
 
K3 #1605
 
CCA 98-00827
CRA 1701
W9DVM
 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Townsend
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2011 5:36 PM
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

Lightning question:

I have driven an 8 foot copper clad rod just outside my operating station.
It's about 6 feet from the rod to my desk.
I have attached a solid copper wire (1/4 thick) to the ground post (with a
ground rod clamp) The wire goes thru the wall and is bonded to a copper pipe
that is 1-1/8 wide  that is just under the desk.

So on to my question:
What is the BEST way to connect my equipment (k3, SB-200 and a remote coax
switch) to the copper pipe?

Coax braid  from RG8 or solid copper wire? and why


Thank You guys...

Phil
Santa Fe

soon to be a xx5SSR...
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about the K2

2011-03-28 Thread Jim Wiley
Eric


I have my K2 set up this way.  The base K2 has the internal tuner, 
battery pack, SSB, NB, and so on, including the KIO2 and the 160 meter 
option.   This is my go bucket version for emergency and portable use.


Then, for QRO use, I have the KPA100 and KAT100 in a separate EC2 case.  
I do not have to remove any of the base K2 options to  use the amplifier 
- it just plugs in.  3 cables - RF, control I/O, and power - everything 
takes care of itself from that point. 


The only caveat is that when running high power you have to make sure 
that power is applied to both the K2 and the KPA100 before turning the 
rig on with the front panel switch -  otherwise, the K2 will not detect 
the presence of the amplifier, and will not switch from one to the other 
as needed.   


When the the two units are interconnected, the K2 tuner (KAT2) is 
disabled automatically, and  returns to service when the 2 boxes are 
separated.


When I built the KPA100/KAT100/EC2 combo I decided not to install the 
speaker and wiring in the KPA100 - I left it in the base K2.


- Jim, KL7CC




 

Eric Champine wrote:
 Hi all.
 Just a few days ago I just realized you could build the K2 as a complete QRP
 setup and then add the KAT100-2/KPA100 in the EC2 custom enclosure to make
 it a QRO rig.
 Wow. Very cool. I was thinking about building a K2-100 and a K2 so I would
 have a rig for both occasions. Now I find out that I can have just one K2
 setup to do both if I am reading this correctly. LOL. I always wanted to
 know why people would want to put the KAT100 in a large case. Now I know
 why. What my question is, is it OK to have the internal QRP tuner in at the
 same time that I have it hooked up to the KAT100-2/KPA100 or does the
 internal tuner have to be taken out to use the KAT100-2/KPA100 add-on?
 This is really going to be a very cool setup for me because I love to go out
 on weekends and do QRP work and during the weekdays work traffic nets where
 I need more power most of the time. This seems the best of both worlds to me
 and now I only have to build one K2 and save a lot of cash.
 It's funny. I have been watching this reflector for a while now and it isn't
 till now that I just found out that this was an option.
 Does anyone have any experience with this setup and how they like it or have
 any suggestions?
 Thanks for your time.

 73 de W2EEC

 Eric
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Re: [Elecraft] beat freq method

2011-03-28 Thread FredJensen
There's a reason why mathematicians speak with equations rather than 
words. ;-) Scott is entirely correct, the sidetone signal and the audio 
signal add linearly in the K3 audio amplifier stage(s) and what you hear 
is their algebraic sum.  If my choice of words implied that the effect 
was non-linear mixing, it was unintentional.

Being an OF from the days of receivers, transmitters with VFO's, and 
modulators, often on separate chassis',  getting on someone's frequency 
entailed turning your VFO [only] on, and adjusting it until its signal, 
as heard in your receiver, added algebraically with the AM carrier or CW 
tone until the exact effect in REF CAL took place ... as the VFO 
approached the audio tone of the signal, they began to fall in and out 
of phase with each other slower and slower, and you heard the beat [or 
slow pulsing in amplitude] between them.  When that beat stopped [or 
got very slow], your VFO was Zero Beat and you would transmit on the 
same frequency as the other station ... if you transmitted fairly 
quickly ... VFO's in those days tended to drift around some unless they 
were built by Art Collins.  And, thus the origin of the term Zero Beat.

Let's assume your VFO signal was 250 cycles higher  than the frequency 
of the other station.  You would then hear it, the other station, and a 
250 cycle component from the algebraic sum of the two, just as you would 
hear a 1 cps beat as you got the VFO within 1 cycle.  I suppose a 
musician with a very good sense of pitch might be able to identify the 
three frequencies involved [other station's note, VFO note, and 250 cps 
sum], but I can't.  What I can tell is that there is a component in 
there and which way to move the VFO to achieve zero beat, and nearly 
everyone else can do that as well.  That's all that's required for the 
Method 2 REF CAL.  If you are deaf, just hang an analog AC multimeter 
across the headphone leads and you can watch the beat on it.

Method 2 is an example of a very simple, test equipment-free mechanism 
that can achieve a really amazing frequency accuracy for your K3.  I 
used the terms cycle and cps in this because Hz hadn't been invented 
in the ancient era I was drawing my example from, and the term zero 
beat that originated from it can be both a verb phrase or a noun phrase.

I hope this clears up any misunderstandings I might have left about REF 
CAL Method 2.

73,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA

On 3/28/2011 7:41 PM, Scott Ellington wrote:
 This brings up an interesting point, though it doesn't affect the method at 
 all.  The beat Fred refers to results from adding of the sidetone to the 
 signal tone:  When they happen to be in phase, the volume goes up 6 dB, when 
 they are exactly out of phase they cancel, so you hear the volume go up and 
 down.  It is a completely linear process.


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[Elecraft] EXTERNAL 10MHZ KIT

2011-03-28 Thread Richard Thorpe
When might we see the kit to reference a 10Mhz source?

K6CG
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about the K2

2011-03-28 Thread Eric Champine
Wow.
Thanks Don and Andrew.
I am really glad that I found this all out before I purchase anymore stuff.
This is going to save me a lot of money that I can use for other toys :-)
You know. I really liked the K2 before but now it rocks even more with the
new capabilities that I didn't know about before.
Wow. SN# 00020. Like a Timex watch It keeps on ticking...  :-)
This is why I like Elecraft so much.
This is my second rig I am building. My first was the K1 and I use it often.

73 de W2EEC

Eric


On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 5:26 PM, Andrew Moore andrew.n...@gmail.com wrote:

 NV1B When using the QRO tuner (in the remote case), just put the QRP
 tuner (KAT2) into bypass mode.

 W3FPR Not even that complicated - the firmware does that automatically
 (and selects ANT1) when the presence of the KPA100 is detected.  No effort
 on the part of the user is required.

 Even better.  I should have known Elecraft would have an Ele-gant solution.
  Kudos to the team.

 --Andrew, NV1B
 ..


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Re: [Elecraft] EXTERNAL 10MHZ KIT

2011-03-28 Thread Wayne Burdick
Very soon. I was just proofing the manual.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Mar 28, 2011, at 3:13 PM, Richard Thorpe wrote:

 When might we see the kit to reference a 10Mhz source?

 K6CG
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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

2011-03-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
   Phil,

Before you do anything else, get enough #6 or #4 bare copper wire to 
connect that new ground rod to the Utility Entry Ground for your house.  
The wire should be buried to keep it out of the way of mowers, etc., but 
the connection is more important than where the wire runs.

First, it is required by National Electric Code, and 2nd because it is 
dangerous without it.  Should you have a ground fault in your house 
wiring, everything connected to that isolated ground rod can carry the 
ground current - touching anything within the area that is connected to 
the house wiring, but not to the ground rod at the same time as touching 
those items which are connected to the ground rod can cause 
electrocution.  I would bet you were not planning to ground the desk 
lamp to your new ground rod - so run that ground rod to ground rod 
connecting wire for your safety and your family and pets.

Now back to your original question - I would use stranded #14 or #12 
wire because it is sufficiently flexible and easily managed.  Solid 
copper wire will break if flexed (by moving equipment around on the 
desk), and braid from RG-8 is a bit messy to deal with.  Use ring tongue 
terminals on each end of the wire (crimp if you have the correct tool, 
solder if you do not).  Yes, ring tongue terminals require that you put 
the ground screw through the terminal hole, but do provide a better 
connection than other terminals with an open end that allow connection 
without putting the screw through the hole.  To attach to your copper 
pipe buss bar, drill it with a small diameter drill (1/8 inch) and use 
self-tapping metal screws (#6 or #8)  The connections should be tight.  
I prefer solid copper bar over a pipe because I can use a stainless 
steel screw with internal toothed lockwasher and a nut to maintain 
tightness.  Normal plated hardware can react with copper and the 
connection can fail with time and corrosion - use stainless steel to 
minimize that reaction.

Still, that is not sufficient protection for lightning - it will bleed 
off static charges from distant lightning surges, but make sure your 
antenna system has a DC path across the coax, and use surge protection 
devices (PolyPhaser or other) on your coax.  In addition, I would advise 
using an antenna switch in the shack to switch between the coax runs to 
the shack, and put a dummy load on one of the selections - switch to the 
dummy load when the transceiver is not in use.  And make a DC path 
across the coax to the transceiver/amplifier at the switch.  A 100 uHy 
choke of sufficient current capacity for your maximum power will do, or 
alternately a 5k to 10k resistor (I would suggest 5 or 10 watts for your 
SB-200 power level).  If you do not want to open your antenna switch and 
add it to the coax going to the transceiver/amplifier, then mount the 
resistor (or choke) in a PL-259 from center conductor to the shell and 
use a UHF Tee Adapter at the input of your antenna switch - the coax to 
the transceiver/amplifier connects to one side ot the TEE and the PL-259 
with the resistor or choke connects to the other side - the 3rd (male) 
end of the TEE goes to the antenna switch input connector.

All in all, simple grounding is not simple, other measures must be 
employed in lightning prone areas.  But your first step is to connect 
that isolated ground rod to the Utility entrance ground - that is a 
personnel safety issue and is much more important than protection for 
your equipment.

Much more information about lightning protection is available at the 
PolyPhaser website.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 3/28/2011 5:35 PM, Phil Townsend wrote:
 Lightning question:

 I have driven an 8 foot copper clad rod just out side my operating station. 
 Its about 6 feet from the rod to my desk.
 I have attached a solid copper wire (1/4 thick) to the ground post (with a 
 ground rod clamp) The wire goes thru the wall and is bonded to a copper pipe 
 that is 1-1/8 wide  that is just under the desk.

 So on to my question:
 What is the BEST way to connect my equipment (k3, SB-200 and a remote coax 
 switch) to the copper pipe?

 Coax braid  from RG8 or solid copper wire? and why


 Thank You guys...

 Phil
 Santa Fe

 soon to be a xx5SSR...
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[Elecraft] [K3] LDG Z-11ProII as remote tuner with K3?

2011-03-28 Thread William Ravenel
I need a remote tuner setup for an inverted-L antenna and am considering a 
battery powered LDG Z-11ProII. I like the compact size and QRP capability of 
this tuner. Does anyone have any experience with this tuner used remotely or 
have any other suggestions that I should look into?

Thanks - Will, AI4VE
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about the K2

2011-03-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Jim,

That caveat is not required.  The K2 will detect the KPA100 when it is 
powered on.  If there is no power to the KPA100 you will see the message 
NO PA POWER.  But if power is later applied to the KPA100, it will 
come on-line and provide full power output.  This switching is 
automatic, and available for those operating with the KPA100 mounted 
either on the base K2 or externally.

In other words, the K2 with the KPA100 is designed so if you operate the 
KPA100 with a power supply running on the AC mains, and power the base 
K2 from a battery, should the mains power go out during a QSO, the 
KPA100 will drop out and the base K2 will still be powered from the 
battery, enabling the QSO to continue even with the lower power out of 
the base K2.  There is a test sequence in the KPA100 manual to verify 
this power switching mechanism.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/28/2011 6:07 PM, Jim Wiley wrote:
 The only caveat is that when running high power you have to make sure
 that power is applied to both the K2 and the KPA100 before turning the
 rig on with the front panel switch -  otherwise, the K2 will not detect
 the presence of the amplifier, and will not switch from one to the other
 as needed.

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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

2011-03-28 Thread w5ov

Don,

I often see this warning and I have some questions.

You said:

 First, it is required by National Electric Code, and 2nd because it is
 dangerous without it.  Should you have a ground fault in your house
 wiring,

Please define a ground fault as you are using the term here.

 everything connected to that isolated ground rod can carry the
 ground current - touching anything within the area that is connected to
 the house wiring, but not to the ground rod at the same time as touching
 those items which are connected to the ground rod can cause
 electrocution.

How would everything in your home suddenly become hot?

Thanks,

Bob


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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

2011-03-28 Thread Byron Servies
Hi Bob,

One of the things that has been difficult for me to understand since
becoming a ham is the difference between micro electronics and (for
lack of a better term) macro electronics.  When the leads are 0.25
thick and feet long, the potential difference at the ends of a wire is
significant, and if there is more than 1 wire the varying impedances
can cause currents where you don't think there should be any.

Because of this, what I used to understand as a single ground (e.g.
a layer on a PC board) is really 4 separate things in a ham shack. The
ground is all electrically a single circuit, and all drain current,
but because they have human-scale sizes, different currents will take
different paths due to the differing impedances from source to drain
in the circuit.  So while your house ground and your ground rod may
both be buried in the ground, they may have significant differences in
potential.

This difference is how everything in your house can suddenly become
hot.  They are hot because, relative to the different ground
potentials, there is a voltage change.  The grounds also both have
huge current carrying capacity, which can kill you.

An excellent description of these different grounds is found in the
2010 ARRL Handbook:

begin quote

28.1.8 Grounds

As hams we are concerned with at least four kinds of things called
ground, even if they really aren't ground in the sense of connection
to the Earth.  These are easily confused because we call each of them
ground.
1) Electrical safety ground (bonding)
2) RF return (antenna ground)
3) Common reference potential (chassis ground)
4) Lightning and transient dissipation ground

IEEE Std 1100-2005 (also known as the Emerald Book, see the
Reference listing, section 28.1.13) provides detailed information from
a theoretical and practical standpoint for grounding and powering
electrical equipment, including lightning protection and RF EMI/EMC
concerns.  It's expensive to buy but is available through libraries.

end quote.

The National Electric Code requires that all ground circuits be bonded
together at the service panel entrance to prevent electrocution.
Inside the house, the green wire is used by ground fault protection
circuit. Your ground rod with it's short connection to your shack will
provide a lower impedance path for RF return and common reference
potential for your equipment (and help keep stray RF currents out of
the rest of the house).  Lightning ... well, mother nature is one
tough cookie.

Again, the ARRL Handbook has excellent information on grounding and
shack safety in general. I have also been studying Jim K9YC's papers
on RFI, which includes extensive information on the many strange ways
RF currents can get to where we do not want them.

http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf

I'm sure someone will correct any egregious errors I have made above,
but I hope I got the salient point across: all your ground circuits
must be bonded to the service entrance panel or you risk serious
injury.


73, Byron N6NUL

- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

2011-03-28 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Don's comments are spot on as usual - 

A comment about what you are trying to do. That is to provide a very
low-inductance path for RF to that ground. Low-inductance conductors are:

1) Very short inductors. 

2) Physically large inductors.

3) Parallel inductors. 

So, given you have the run as short as you can, now you make it as large as
you can. Braid is excellent because it's big (compared to most wires) and
very flexible. Parallel conductors, like any parallel inductances, have less
inductance than one. So it's an option if you must stay small, but have room
for several wires connected at both ends. 

I use an inverted L antenna that terminates right in the shack on a shelf
above the rig. Like you, I have a ground just outside the shack wall. My
ground connection runs about 5 feet along the inner wall and then a
conductor takes the ground outside (a run of about 10).

The 5-foot ground conductor on the inner wall is a sheet of copper about 2
feet wide. I picked up a roll of copper sheet at a hobby store and thumb
tacks hold it on the wall behind the operating desk. My equipment is all
grounded by simply soldering a short pig-tail lead onto the sheet wherever
needed directly behind each piece of equipment. 

Of course that ground is also bonded to the mains ground. 

My work requires me to constantly pull equipment off the operating desk to
tear it apart, so I terminated all of those ground pig-tails in banana plugs
with jacks attached to the grounding screws on the gear. Makes disassembling
things easy. (The trick is trying to remember where all the cables go when I
put it back - someday I'll discover cable labels, Hi!)

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

2011-03-28 Thread FredJensen
Grounding and lightning protection is not a simple subject Phil.  Here's 
what I would recommend:

If your home is wired to NEC standards, the neutral [center-tap on the 
pole pig] will be tied to the safety ground [green wire in your outlets] 
and earth at the service entrance ... only.  This means that the green 
wire in each outlet snakes back to the service entrance before 
encountering a real ground.  It thus makes a useless RF ground and 
lightning is RF [see below].

A.  You *must* tie your ground rod back to the ground at the entrance 
panel.  NEC requires it and if it isn't so tied, it can create a real 
safety hazard if you should encounter a ground fault.  Make it as short 
as possible, buried is best, but if short means run under the house, 
that's OK.  Use #14 copper or larger.

B.  AC is excluded from the inside of a conductor by the magnetic field 
it creates, and flows near the surface [skin] effect].  The higher the 
frequency, the closer to the surface it is.  The conductors on one of 
the original 230 KV lines from Hoover Dam to Los Angeles are hollow for 
that reason.

C.  Lightning currents are mainly RF, and flow only on the very surface 
of the conductor and you want a lot of surface area, volume contributes 
almost nothing.  So, wide copper strap is good.  Large gauge stranded 
copper wire is less effective but better than solid wire.  For the fire 
lookouts on peaks here in the Sierra Nevada, they use 3/8 - 1/2 
stranded wire running around the roof, catwalks, and tower legs, bonded 
to everything including an extensive ground system.

D.  Surviving a direct hit to your tower or antenna is problematical at 
best.  Even if you disconnect and ground your antenna [and rotator] 
cables, the induced currents will create high peak potentials to your 
equipment [and everything else in the house].  You can't stop that from 
happening, and your radio chassis can momentarily rise to very high 
potentials.The grounding goal for your equipment is to keep it all 
together.  The radio chassis can experience a peak pulse, but if 
everything else also gets that same pulse, the differential potential 
between them is very low, and little current will flow.  The way you do 
this is to bring your ground strap into the shack, and using the 
shortest wiring you can, ground *each* piece of equipment *separately* 
to the same point on the strap.

E.  A grounded entrance panel for your coax and rotator cables is very 
good, use Polyphasers or similar to bring the cables through.  They 
won't survive a direct hit, but in that case, that's the least of your 
worries, your house may be on fire by then. :-( They will clamp off 
induced pulses however and limit potential excursions on your equipment.

F.  Unless your home is on stilts over salt water [unlikely in NM :-) ] 
I'd guess that your ground rod is probably pretty high impedance for any 
currents generated by lightning.  At the TV station I worked at in 
college [500'  tower on a 1,300' ridge], the ground system ran all 
around the building with a bunch of ground rods, and included things 
like the tower, the fridge, plumbing, the 3 1/8 hard-line exterior, 
even the gate on the road, and the steel trench covers inside,   They 
still made a deafening clang when we took a nearby strike.  Hams do 
install systems like that around their houses, it's expensive and it's 
really a trade off with risk.

G.  If you have an Elecraft rig, you're covered.  If you don't, make 
sure there's a bleed [RF choke or high value resistor] across the 
antenna connector.  Precip static can sound innocuous if annoying, but 
without the bleed, it can store charge in the input circuit and 
ultimately cream it.  We killed 2 IC-756PRO II's in 2009 from this in a 
snowstorm during the Cal QSO Party in Alpine County.

If you have any specific questions, I'd recommend first contacting Jim, 
K9YC [who is really near Santa Cruz CA].  He has a wealth of information 
and tutorials on his web site.  The grandson of Art, my Elmer of 57 
years ago, W6RMK, now holds his grandad's call and has made his living 
as a lightning expert.  If some question comes up, I'll be glad to take 
it to him.  This pretty much exhausts my knowledge.

73,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA
On 3/28/2011 9:35 PM, Phil Townsend wrote:
 Lightning question:

 I have driven an 8 foot copper clad rod just out side my operating station. 
 Its about 6 feet from the rod to my desk.
 I have attached a solid copper wire (1/4 thick) to the ground post (with a 
 ground rod clamp) The wire goes thru the wall and is bonded to a copper pipe 
 that is 1-1/8 wide  that is just under the desk.

 So on to my question:
 What is the BEST way to connect my equipment (k3, SB-200 and a remote coax 
 switch) to the copper pipe?

 Coax braid  from RG8 or solid copper wire? and why


 Thank You guys...

 Phil
 Santa Fe

 soon to be a xx5SSR...
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[Elecraft] K3 carrying case options?

2011-03-28 Thread Christopher Blake
Hello all,
I am a fairly new K3 owner; three months now and I am hooked!
I'd like to take my K3 on several contest expeditions and so I am looking
for a carrying case (prefer a soft case).  Any guidance appreciated.

vy 73,
Chris, NX4N
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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

2011-03-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Bob,

A ground fault is either an open ground wire in the AC wiring system, or 
it is more commonly a short of the hot wire to ground (could be just 
leakage, like leakage from a capacitor from the hot wire to the chassis).

The separate grounds do not have the same resistance back to the AC 
mains ground, and will cause the equipment chassis to elevate above the 
potential of the grounded AC mains safety ground wire.  How much depends 
on how much resistance difference there is between the two ground rods 
(soil does not conduct very well in many areas).

I refer you to section 28.1.9 of the ARRL Handbook for 2010, especially 
figures 28.6 and 28.7 which clearly illustrate the situation.  This 
information was not in the 2005 edition of the ARRL Handbook, and I 
don't know when it was first included, but I am very glad to see it covered.

Don't have the ARRL Handbook?  Get one, it is worth the price.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/28/2011 6:45 PM, w...@w5ov.com wrote:
 Don,

 I often see this warning and I have some questions.

 You said:

 First, it is required by National Electric Code, and 2nd because it is
 dangerous without it.  Should you have a ground fault in your house
 wiring,
 Please define a ground fault as you are using the term here.

 everything connected to that isolated ground rod can carry the
 ground current - touching anything within the area that is connected to
 the house wiring, but not to the ground rod at the same time as touching
 those items which are connected to the ground rod can cause
 electrocution.
 How would everything in your home suddenly become hot?

 Thanks,

 Bob


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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

2011-03-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Byron,

Thanks for posting that quote.
As a matter of importance, all grounds are not the same.  What we have 
been discussing is the Electrical Safety Ground, which IMHO is the most 
important one to be considered.  The safety of you and your family 
depend on it.

The RF return (antenna ground) does not have to be at earth ground 
potential (but usually will be when it enters the shack through a 
grounded coax connector).  If you think of this as the antenna RF Return 
rather than as ground, the situation may be a bit clearer.  The RF 
Ground point is that reference point determined by your antenna - for a 
center fed balanced antenna, it is that point where the antenna current 
passes through zero and changes phase at some point between the feedline 
connections to the radiator(s).  This point is obviously not earth 
ground, but it should be considered the RF Ground point for that antenna.
A vertical with grounded radials is similar, but a better term for the 
radial field is RF radial screen than using RF Ground, which it may or 
may not be.

Chassis ground is another example.  In some pieces of equipment, it is 
isolated from the Safety Ground - consider a power supply with an 
isolated return terminal - or consider equipment that is powered from a 
battery, there is no need to connect its common to the AC Safety ground 
for it to be functional, but if there are exposed areas of that return 
ground that are likely to be touched (that ground is connected to a 
metallic enclosure), then it should be connected to the AC safety ground 
even when operated on batteries.

Lightning and transient dissipation ground is a different animal 
altogether.  The currents can be huge, and the frequencies involved are 
all over the RF spectrum.  The principle behind any lightning protection 
grounding is to provide enough low impedance conductors in the earth to 
dissipate that surge over as large an area of the earth as possible - 
that takes a lot of ground rods spread over a large area and very fat 
conductors between them.  Yes, that system of ground wires and rods must 
also be connected to the AC entry ground rod unless the distance between 
those two grounds is at least 150 feet apart.  Towers, fences, and 
anything metallic within that 150 foot radius should also be connected 
to that Lightning and Dissipation ground system.  If in doubt, connect it.

I refer you to the writings of Ron Block - I consider his information on 
lightning protection for the ham shack authoritarian.  He published a 3 
part article in QST beginning in June 2002 (Google for lightning 
protection Ron Block).  I suggest reading it if ham station protection 
is one of your goals.  It is the document I considered golden when I 
was setting up the ground system for my station and antennas.  I was 
dealing with new construction which made installation a bit easier, but 
I have tried to implement as many of his recommendations as possible, 
including perimeter wires around the buildings.  Even so, I do not 
operate when a lightning storm is nearby.  No matter how good your 
protection installation may be, it is not to be trusted for a direct 
hit.  Disconnect the equipment and get out of the shack.

73,
Don W3FPR



On 3/28/2011 7:15 PM, Byron Servies wrote:
 begin quote

 28.1.8 Grounds

  As hams we are concerned with at least four kinds of things called
 ground, even if they really aren't ground in the sense of connection
 to the Earth.  These are easily confused because we call each of them
 ground.
  1) Electrical safety ground (bonding)
  2) RF return (antenna ground)
  3) Common reference potential (chassis ground)
  4) Lightning and transient dissipation ground

  IEEE Std 1100-2005 (also known as the Emerald Book, see the
 Reference listing, section 28.1.13) provides detailed information from
 a theoretical and practical standpoint for grounding and powering
 electrical equipment, including lightning protection and RF EMI/EMC
 concerns.  It's expensive to buy but is available through libraries.

 end quote.

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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

2011-03-28 Thread Mel Farrer
All of this is of course, very good advice.  I would like to add a little humor 
experience driving through the southwest on the way back to my post at Fort 
Gordon, GA.  


I left CA and went to the southern route to GA which took me to Flagstaff, AZ  
and east.  While on the way, I had my 6 meter antenna on the back of my 1957 
Chev convertible and  the rig unconnected in the back seat.  While driving 
across the desert, in the afternoon while the overhead storm was obvious, I 
heard some snapping sounds, but could not find a source.  I stopped for dinner 
and got back in the car to continue..  After a while I heard the snapping 
sound again.  But everything still seemed fine.  When the light faded and the 
sky darken, the snapping sound was accompanied by a flash in the car.  I pulled 
off and looked around when it flashed again, it was the end of the coax 
connector and the static electricity was arcing across the end of the 
connector.   I piece of gum wrapper across the end stopped the arcing and I 
continued to Ft. Gordon at ease.


Mel, K6KBE






From: FredJensen k6...@foothill.net
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Mon, March 28, 2011 4:39:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

Grounding and lightning protection is not a simple subject Phil.  Here's 
what I would recommend:

If your home is wired to NEC standards, the neutral [center-tap on the 
pole pig] will be tied to the safety ground [green wire in your outlets] 
and earth at the service entrance ... only.  This means that the green 
wire in each outlet snakes back to the service entrance before 
encountering a real ground.  It thus makes a useless RF ground and 
lightning is RF [see below].

A.  You *must* tie your ground rod back to the ground at the entrance 
panel.  NEC requires it and if it isn't so tied, it can create a real 
safety hazard if you should encounter a ground fault.  Make it as short 
as possible, buried is best, but if short means run under the house, 
that's OK.  Use #14 copper or larger.

B.  AC is excluded from the inside of a conductor by the magnetic field 
it creates, and flows near the surface [skin] effect].  The higher the 
frequency, the closer to the surface it is.  The conductors on one of 
the original 230 KV lines from Hoover Dam to Los Angeles are hollow for 
that reason.

C.  Lightning currents are mainly RF, and flow only on the very surface 
of the conductor and you want a lot of surface area, volume contributes 
almost nothing.  So, wide copper strap is good.  Large gauge stranded 
copper wire is less effective but better than solid wire.  For the fire 
lookouts on peaks here in the Sierra Nevada, they use 3/8 - 1/2 
stranded wire running around the roof, catwalks, and tower legs, bonded 
to everything including an extensive ground system.

D.  Surviving a direct hit to your tower or antenna is problematical at 
best.  Even if you disconnect and ground your antenna [and rotator] 
cables, the induced currents will create high peak potentials to your 
equipment [and everything else in the house].  You can't stop that from 
happening, and your radio chassis can momentarily rise to very high 
potentials.The grounding goal for your equipment is to keep it all 
together.  The radio chassis can experience a peak pulse, but if 
everything else also gets that same pulse, the differential potential 
between them is very low, and little current will flow.  The way you do 
this is to bring your ground strap into the shack, and using the 
shortest wiring you can, ground *each* piece of equipment *separately* 
to the same point on the strap.

E.  A grounded entrance panel for your coax and rotator cables is very 
good, use Polyphasers or similar to bring the cables through.  They 
won't survive a direct hit, but in that case, that's the least of your 
worries, your house may be on fire by then. :-( They will clamp off 
induced pulses however and limit potential excursions on your equipment.

F.  Unless your home is on stilts over salt water [unlikely in NM :-) ] 
I'd guess that your ground rod is probably pretty high impedance for any 
currents generated by lightning.  At the TV station I worked at in 
college [500'  tower on a 1,300' ridge], the ground system ran all 
around the building with a bunch of ground rods, and included things 
like the tower, the fridge, plumbing, the 3 1/8 hard-line exterior, 
even the gate on the road, and the steel trench covers inside,   They 
still made a deafening clang when we took a nearby strike.  Hams do 
install systems like that around their houses, it's expensive and it's 
really a trade off with risk.

G.  If you have an Elecraft rig, you're covered.  If you don't, make 
sure there's a bleed [RF choke or high value resistor] across the 
antenna connector.  Precip static can sound innocuous if annoying, but 
without the bleed, it can store charge in the input circuit and 
ultimately 

Re: [Elecraft] Not hearing signals in K2 with EC2 enclosure KPA100/KAT100 combo

2011-03-28 Thread Alan D. Wilcox
Brian,
Perhaps a photo or two might help. 
http://wilcoxengineering.com/amateur-radio/kpa100inec2
Cheers,
Alan

Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40)
570-321-1516
http://WilcoxEngineering.com
http://eBookEditor.net
https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/28062?ref=awilcox
Williamsport, PA 17701


On 3/28/11 8:28 AM, Brian Pepperdine wrote:
 On the weekend, I picked up  a nice K2 set - a K2 with internal tuner and 
 battery, plus the remoting of the
 KAT100 and KPA100 built into an EC2 enclosure.

 All set up for QRP in  field/portabl/patio or full 100 watts in the shack.



 But an odd thing... this all came from a very reliable ham (a techical guy of 
 long standing circa. 1957 onward) and it was
 built according to the KK7P web page guidelines, with a printout of Lyle's 
 pages on this from the web site.

 It does NOT hear RF signals when in the paired mode with amp/tuner connected.
 I have it set up as per the photos.. with DB9 cable between the I/O Aux jacks 
 on the PA/KAT and the base K2, and antenna attaches to ANT 1 UHF jack on the 
 PA/KAT box.

 I hear RF fine if I put the antenna line on the basic K2 BNC Antenna 1 jack, 
 but nothing heard in the full setup.

 I read the pages.. it seems the K2 is to have the tuner set at CAL from what 
 I read, but whether in CAL or in Auto.. I still get nothing heard.

 I am assuming the RF somehow, somewhere passes from the K2 to the PA/KAT via 
 this IO Aux line?

 Any ideas...?

 I figured it would be all ready to go.. sort of direct from his shack table 
 onto mine, but something seems amiss.

 tnx
 Brien
 VE3VAW
   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 carrying case options?

2011-03-28 Thread Stan Gibbs
Rose Kopp, N7HKW, makes great cases and covers for the whole K-line.  I have
several; they are really well made and functional.

Check them out at: http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5

You can reach Rose at: elecraftcov...@rfwave.net


-
73, Stan - KR7C
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 carrying case options?

2011-03-28 Thread Stan Gibbs

Stan Gibbs wrote:
 
 You can reach Rose at: elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 

Make that: elecraftcov...@gmail.com


-
73, Stan - KR7C
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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

2011-03-28 Thread Phil Hystad
You guys should all move to the northwest, such as Seattle.   Lightning is more 
rare then a 100 degree summer day.  It happens but definitely not often.

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 28, 2011, at 5:49 PM, Mel Farrer farrerfo...@yahoo.com wrote:

 All of this is of course, very good advice.  I would like to add a little 
 humor 
 experience driving through the southwest on the way back to my post at Fort 
 Gordon, GA.  
 
 
 I left CA and went to the southern route to GA which took me to Flagstaff, AZ 
  
 and east.  While on the way, I had my 6 meter antenna on the back of my 1957 
 Chev convertible and  the rig unconnected in the back seat.  While driving 
 across the desert, in the afternoon while the overhead storm was obvious, I 
 heard some snapping sounds, but could not find a source.  I stopped for 
 dinner 
 and got back in the car to continue..  After a while I heard the snapping 
 sound again.  But everything still seemed fine.  When the light faded and the 
 sky darken, the snapping sound was accompanied by a flash in the car.  I 
 pulled 
 off and looked around when it flashed again, it was the end of the coax 
 connector and the static electricity was arcing across the end of the 
 connector.   I piece of gum wrapper across the end stopped the arcing and I 
 continued to Ft. Gordon at ease.
 
 
 Mel, K6KBE
 
 
 
 
 
 
 From: FredJensen k6...@foothill.net
 To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Mon, March 28, 2011 4:39:36 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.
 
 Grounding and lightning protection is not a simple subject Phil.  Here's 
 what I would recommend:
 
 If your home is wired to NEC standards, the neutral [center-tap on the 
 pole pig] will be tied to the safety ground [green wire in your outlets] 
 and earth at the service entrance ... only.  This means that the green 
 wire in each outlet snakes back to the service entrance before 
 encountering a real ground.  It thus makes a useless RF ground and 
 lightning is RF [see below].
 
 A.  You *must* tie your ground rod back to the ground at the entrance 
 panel.  NEC requires it and if it isn't so tied, it can create a real 
 safety hazard if you should encounter a ground fault.  Make it as short 
 as possible, buried is best, but if short means run under the house, 
 that's OK.  Use #14 copper or larger.
 
 B.  AC is excluded from the inside of a conductor by the magnetic field 
 it creates, and flows near the surface [skin] effect].  The higher the 
 frequency, the closer to the surface it is.  The conductors on one of 
 the original 230 KV lines from Hoover Dam to Los Angeles are hollow for 
 that reason.
 
 C.  Lightning currents are mainly RF, and flow only on the very surface 
 of the conductor and you want a lot of surface area, volume contributes 
 almost nothing.  So, wide copper strap is good.  Large gauge stranded 
 copper wire is less effective but better than solid wire.  For the fire 
 lookouts on peaks here in the Sierra Nevada, they use 3/8 - 1/2 
 stranded wire running around the roof, catwalks, and tower legs, bonded 
 to everything including an extensive ground system.
 
 D.  Surviving a direct hit to your tower or antenna is problematical at 
 best.  Even if you disconnect and ground your antenna [and rotator] 
 cables, the induced currents will create high peak potentials to your 
 equipment [and everything else in the house].  You can't stop that from 
 happening, and your radio chassis can momentarily rise to very high 
 potentials.The grounding goal for your equipment is to keep it all 
 together.  The radio chassis can experience a peak pulse, but if 
 everything else also gets that same pulse, the differential potential 
 between them is very low, and little current will flow.  The way you do 
 this is to bring your ground strap into the shack, and using the 
 shortest wiring you can, ground *each* piece of equipment *separately* 
 to the same point on the strap.
 
 E.  A grounded entrance panel for your coax and rotator cables is very 
 good, use Polyphasers or similar to bring the cables through.  They 
 won't survive a direct hit, but in that case, that's the least of your 
 worries, your house may be on fire by then. :-( They will clamp off 
 induced pulses however and limit potential excursions on your equipment.
 
 F.  Unless your home is on stilts over salt water [unlikely in NM :-) ] 
 I'd guess that your ground rod is probably pretty high impedance for any 
 currents generated by lightning.  At the TV station I worked at in 
 college [500'  tower on a 1,300' ridge], the ground system ran all 
 around the building with a bunch of ground rods, and included things 
 like the tower, the fridge, plumbing, the 3 1/8 hard-line exterior, 
 even the gate on the road, and the steel trench covers inside,   They 
 still made a deafening clang when we took a nearby strike.  Hams do 
 install systems like that around their houses, 

[Elecraft] K2 Question

2011-03-28 Thread Tom McCulloch
I have an early serial numbered K2 (#1103) which I am running barefoot.  
Among other options, I have installed the KI02 and ATU.  Those who have 
built the earlier models will recall the need to cut some of the the 
traces on one of the front panel boards (there are two boards up there - 
I forget which one was cut).

I now find it necessary to remove my KI02 and I will probably have to 
replace it (don't ask!).  My question to the group is -- in light of my 
having cut those traces, will the ATU still tune if I remove the KI02?  
(I forget if we cut the traces when installing the KI02 or the ATU).

I hope at least some of this makes sense.

Thanks in advance for your usual help.

73
Tom WB2QDG
K2 1103
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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

2011-03-28 Thread Bill Harris

Tnx  Just what we need,  more traffic on downtown I-5
KXBill

 From: phys...@mac.com
 Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 19:53:15 -0700
 To: farrerfo...@yahoo.com
 CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.
 
 You guys should all move to the northwest, such as Seattle.   Lightning is 
 more rare then a 100 degree summer day.  It happens but definitely not often.
 
 Sent from my iPad
 

  
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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning season is on the way in New Mexico.

2011-03-28 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I'm on the central Oregon coast, close to the waves, and we see lightning
storms several times a year from squalls brought ashore by the Pineapple
Express (the strong weather pattern that draws storms from the vicinity of
Hawaii right to us).

I'm always careful to keep the antenna grounded when not in use. 

Of course we don't see the sort of static build-up one gets in the dry
southwest and other places, but one close call with a lightning stroke can
easily make up for anything we missed due to dry air. 

It sounds like you're rather protected from that stuff in Seattle there on
the eastern side of the Olympic peninsula. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-


You guys should all move to the northwest, such as Seattle.   Lightning is
more rare then a 100 degree summer day.  It happens but definitely not
often.

Sent from my iPad

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Re: [Elecraft] A comment about Receiving

2011-03-28 Thread r_zerr
The antenna tuner acts as a pre-selector so to speak, by making the sytem of
the antenna, the transmission line, and the radio, resonant, and matched
impedence.

All of this adds up to minimize losses in a couple of ways. The impedence
matching means that the xmission line and antenna are as  close to the input
impedence of the radio (nominally 50 Ohms these days). If it is not at 50
Ohms then you do not get maximum power in to the rig based on simple simple
Ohms law power.

A highly simplified way of explaining resonance part of a resonant antenna 
is the act of making sure all of the current is in phase with the voltage so
that when the power does get to the reciever, that it is in a useable form
to drive things. It is somewhat the reverse or inverse of a good spring and
shock absorber system on a carif you have things wrong, and drive along
a rough road with bumps spaced jsut right relative to how fast, then all
heck breaks loose; maximim power transferred, and that is a resonant system.
If things are not resonant, well, you get a smooth ride in your car, or in
the case of your radio, poor reception (and transmission).  

-ron WT5RZ

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question

2011-03-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Tom,

You made some cuts and added some wire to the Control Board when adding 
the KIO2 if your K2 SN was less than 3000 (the new boards already have 
this change installed.

No need to reverse that wiring, just unplug the KIO2 cable and all will 
be well.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/28/2011 11:17 PM, Tom McCulloch wrote:
 I have an early serial numbered K2 (#1103) which I am running barefoot.
 Among other options, I have installed the KI02 and ATU.  Those who have
 built the earlier models will recall the need to cut some of the the
 traces on one of the front panel boards (there are two boards up there -
 I forget which one was cut).

 I now find it necessary to remove my KI02 and I will probably have to
 replace it (don't ask!).  My question to the group is -- in light of my
 having cut those traces, will the ATU still tune if I remove the KI02?
 (I forget if we cut the traces when installing the KI02 or the ATU).

 I hope at least some of this makes sense.

 Thanks in advance for your usual help.

 73
 Tom WB2QDG
 K2 1103
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[Elecraft] Lightning in New Mexico

2011-03-28 Thread Phil Townsend
The ground rod (#1) I placed just outside my shack/ house is about 16 or 17 
feet from the meter/ ground rod that connects to the AC mains.  
So if I run a bunch of fat parallel wires that are bonded to BOTH ground rods 
that will be a good thing to do. (and required...by law)(knock on the the door 
ITS the ground police)


As a matter of fact during the lightning season I disconnect the antennas from 
my gear when it looks like the Wx is gonna go south. (South,??? why not 
North???)

Antennas consist of a 20 meter Gap vertical and nested marconi for 40m and 80m 
at 24 feet... Kinda like a dipole.
These antennas run to an outside remote coax switch. 
I have beat into the dirt another 8' foot ground rod(G.R. #2) next to the 
outside coax switch
and have installed a Poly Phasor on the output coax that goes into the shack 
and poly phasors on each of the coax cables from the antennas.
All the poly phasor's ground lugs are connected to ground rod #2. (Each Poly 
phasor has its own wire going to ground rod #2)

This remote coax switch and ground rod #2 are about 12 feet from the AC mains.

If I understand correctly, I should also bond this ground rod #2 to the the AC 
mains ground rod as well

But if I do that then those antennas will be connected to the grounds in the 
house via the AC mains ground rod?
This seems counterintuitive? I mean... now there will be the very real 
possibility of lightning in the house wiring???

Again Thank you for your help!!!


Phil
Santa Fe

P.S... We get lightning almost as bad as Florida. 
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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning in New Mexico

2011-03-28 Thread Jim Brown
On 3/28/2011 10:12 PM, Phil Townsend wrote:
 (knock on the the door ITS the ground police)

Grounding regulations are there because they are the right way to 
protect people and property from Lightning and from faults on the power 
system. They are written in the form of Electrical Building Codes (the 
NEC in North America) by some VERY sharp Electrical Engineers who really 
do understand radio, audio, video, lightning, and all the other 
ramifications of proper grounding. They are not big government to be 
scorned, they are based on God's Laws of Physics to be learned and 
respected.

Our concern is not the ground police  (the local Electrical Inspector) 
--  it's LIGHTNING or a serious fault on the power line that can make 
you a very unhappy guy if you do it wrong.

73, Jim Brown K9YC
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