[Elecraft] Want to buy: KAF2 and KSB2 for K2
Hi All, Looking for KAF2 and KSB2 (if you also have KNB2 please let me know). Maybe someone has recently ungraded to KDSP2 and doesn't need KAF2 anymore ? Thanks, Tomasz __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K2] Sidetone has suddenly disappeared.
My K2 suddenly quit supplying a sidetone. Changing sidetone level and frequency do nothing. Per the troubleshooting guide, I've found that the drain of Q5 has no AC voltage when key down, while pin one of U10 (IIRC) is supplying 5 volts (and pin 25 of the IC in the previous step had expected 2.5v AC). So, this seems to mean that Q5 is bad, but when I pulled it and tested it with the M3 semiconductor analyzer, it is not obviously bad (to me anyway). It reads NMOS Vth=1.76v, S-G-D mA=1.13 - whatever that means, I don't know enough to interpret. Any off the cuff ideas? I have a replacement 2n7000 on the way, but still wondering why it would fail in circuit, and if its really bad. Thanks, Chip AE5KA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Sidetone has suddenly disappeared.
Chip, I suspect that you accidentally toggled the sidetone source in the menu. If your K2 SN is 3000 or greater, or you have an earlier K2 with the KPA100 or KIO2 added, you need to select U8-4 for the sidetone source. If none of those conditions match, the sidetone source is U6-25. If you put Q5 back in the circuit, enter the menu for St L, hold EDIT to edit the parameter, and first set the level at something reasonable - between 20 and 40 - then tap the DISPLAY button to toggle the source. When you hear sidetone, stop and exit the menu. To prevent future occurrences, I suggest that you do not set a PF key to St L. When zero-beating, adjust the audio level on the signal (to match the sidetone level) with the AF Gain control instead of adjusting the level of the sidetone to match whatever signal level you have. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/28/2011 7:37 AM, Chip Stratton wrote: My K2 suddenly quit supplying a sidetone. Changing sidetone level and frequency do nothing. Per the troubleshooting guide, I've found that the drain of Q5 has no AC voltage when key down, while pin one of U10 (IIRC) is supplying 5 volts (and pin 25 of the IC in the previous step had expected 2.5v AC). So, this seems to mean that Q5 is bad, but when I pulled it and tested it with the M3 semiconductor analyzer, it is not obviously bad (to me anyway). It reads NMOS Vth=1.76v, S-G-D mA=1.13 - whatever that means, I don't know enough to interpret. Any off the cuff ideas? I have a replacement 2n7000 on the way, but still wondering why it would fail in circuit, and if its really bad. Thanks, Chip AE5KA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] No SSB output - microphone or something else?
Kristinn, You may have trouble with the MC-80 microphone because it is an amplified microphone which expects +8 volts on pin 5 of the mic jack - Elecraft has +8 volts on pin 6. Note that the K2 microphone jack can be wired to accommodate a wide variety of microphone pinouts, so the fact that it works with the K2 may not be relevant. The plain dynamic microphone *should* work. Set the MIC SEL menu item to FP H -- (no bias). Set the K3 up while in TX TEST mode so you do not transmit RF and bother other hams. First set the compression to zero, then adjust the mic gain to peak at 6 to 7 bars on the ALC meter. After that, bring the compression up to your desired level. Exit TX TEST and try it on the air. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/28/2011 12:33 AM, TF3KX wrote: Hi: I am helping a friend, TF3SA, with his K3 (S/N 1113). He operates mostly CW, but has so far not been successful in getting any SSB signal out of the rig. We have used two microphones, the Kenwood MC-80 and an old handheld Dynamic 600 Ohm microphone that came originally from Kenwood with my TS-440S. That dynamic mike works fine with my K2, but not with the K3. Both microphones have the same effect - the PTT works as expected, but there seem to be no response to the audio when blowing or whistling into the mike. We only manage to get some output when the K3 compression level is set to maximum and the K3 mike level is at least half way up -and then we only get constant noise output which is independent of the audio entering the mike. Are there any suggestions? Are we just using the wrong mike types, and can we make any adjustments or wiring to accommodate these specific mikes? Or can we run some other tests to verify if it is actually the mike rather than something else? 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Sidetone has suddenly disappeared.
Nuts. Ill bet i inadvertantly changed the sidetone source, because i had been viewing the secondary menus just before. Overlooked sidetone source. Should have posted before pulling. I got this K2 second hand and have been trying to learn the ins and outs - there is a lot there. Thanks for your time Don! Chip On Thursday, July 28, 2011, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Chip, I suspect that you accidentally toggled the sidetone source in the menu. If your K2 SN is 3000 or greater, or you have an earlier K2 with the KPA100 or KIO2 added, you need to select U8-4 for the sidetone source. If none of those conditions match, the sidetone source is U6-25. If you put Q5 back in the circuit, enter the menu for St L, hold EDIT to edit the parameter, and first set the level at something reasonable - between 20 and 40 - then tap the DISPLAY button to toggle the source. When you hear sidetone, stop and exit the menu. To prevent future occurrences, I suggest that you do not set a PF key to St L. When zero-beating, adjust the audio level on the signal (to match the sidetone level) with the AF Gain control instead of adjusting the level of the sidetone to match whatever signal level you have. 73, Don W3FPR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 Build Question
Hi All, I consider myself to be a pretty experienced kit builder. Normally I follow the instructions step-by-step, but sometimes I deviate if it will make things go smoother for me. I am working on the KAT2 right now. I am starting the L-C board. The manual says to install all the relays after I installed those small 102 caps. I noticed that other caps go into holes that will be directly under the relays on the other side of the board. My dilemma is that I am concerned that if I don't install those caps BEFORE installing the relays, I run the risk of piercing them with the leads or having solder go through and melt them. I know how fragile the relays are because I nicked one with my soldering iron when I built my K1. It had to be replaced. Conversely, if I install the caps first, I run the risk of not having the relays sit flat...even if I trim the leads beforehand. I know this is a critical issue as space is at a premium on the boards, and it has to fit with it's control board within tight tolerances. Should I follow the instructions, or deviate slightly so I know I won't damage something? The KAT2 is quite possibly the most important option one would buy. 73 es thanks, David KC9EHQ K1-4 s/n 2051 K2 s/n 7164 Sent from my iPod __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Build Question
David, Just follow the instructions in order and all will be well. You must flush cut the relay leads after soldering, and that will not be easy if you mount the capacitors first. When it comes to the capacitors that fit above the relays, yes, you will trim the leads before soldering as instructed in the manual. The inductor leads are similar - just follow the instructions. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/28/2011 9:24 AM, David Dietrich wrote: Hi All, I consider myself to be a pretty experienced kit builder. Normally I follow the instructions step-by-step, but sometimes I deviate if it will make things go smoother for me. I am working on the KAT2 right now. I am starting the L-C board. The manual says to install all the relays after I installed those small 102 caps. I noticed that other caps go into holes that will be directly under the relays on the other side of the board. My dilemma is that I am concerned that if I don't install those caps BEFORE installing the relays, I run the risk of piercing them with the leads or having solder go through and melt them. I know how fragile the relays are because I nicked one with my soldering iron when I built my K1. It had to be replaced. Conversely, if I install the caps first, I run the risk of not having the relays sit flat...even if I trim the leads beforehand. I know this is a critical issue as space is at a premium on the boards, and it has to fit with it's control board within tight tolerances. Should I follow the instructions, or deviate slightly so I know I won't damage something? The KAT2 is quite possibly the most important option one wou ld buy. 73 es thanks, David KC9EHQ K1-4 s/n 2051 K2 s/n 7164 Sent from my iPod __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Sidetone has suddenly disappeared.
Chip, If you want to do a good job of learning the K2, go through the manual - you can skip the assembly parts because it is already assembled, but walk through the alignment and test parts. There is a lot of learning that a builder obtains in those sections that is not repeated anywhere else. You will not have to actually do the alignments, but just know that those steps are present. Then repeat that process for each of the installed options. If you do not have the manuals, you may download them from the Elecraft website. It would be nice if some enterprising K2 owner would write a comprehensive K2 Owner's Manual since many K2s now are not owned by those who have built one. Is there anyone out there up to the task? I simply do not have the time to do that. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/28/2011 10:00 AM, Chip Stratton wrote: Nuts. Ill bet i inadvertantly changed the sidetone source, because i had been viewing the secondary menus just before. Overlooked sidetone source. Should have posted before pulling. I got this K2 second hand and have been trying to learn the ins and outs - there is a lot there. Thanks for your time Don! Chip On Thursday, July 28, 2011, Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Chip, I suspect that you accidentally toggled the sidetone source in the menu. If your K2 SN is 3000 or greater, or you have an earlier K2 with the KPA100 or KIO2 added, you need to select U8-4 for the sidetone source. If none of those conditions match, the sidetone source is U6-25. If you put Q5 back in the circuit, enter the menu for St L, hold EDIT to edit the parameter, and first set the level at something reasonable - between 20 and 40 - then tap the DISPLAY button to toggle the source. When you hear sidetone, stop and exit the menu. To prevent future occurrences, I suggest that you do not set a PF key to St L. When zero-beating, adjust the audio level on the signal (to match the sidetone level) with the AF Gain control instead of adjusting the level of the sidetone to match whatever signal level you have. 73, Don W3FPR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 Keying Weight (DOT) menu
Good Morning, Just finish my K2 serial 7179 a week ago, I run thru the menus and I was learnig how to use it in the best way, and now I do not undurstand the Keying Weight (DOT) menu. Shouldn't it be in a 1:1 default setting? I am used to a 1:1 ratio, for that the menu is 1.00 setting? Right? Does anybody knows why the default setting is 1.10? Thank you in advance. 73 Pedro CT2GET __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Keying Weight (DOT) menu
Many of the K2 settings are somewhat relative, depending ultimately on your actual component values, which are not exact, but within a manufacturing tolerance. Listen to your transmitted dots on a separate RX and see if they SOUND equal. Adjust the number if you think dots are too long or too short. If it SOUNDS equal, leave it alone. 73, Guy. On Thu, Jul 28, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Pedro Correia pedrocorreia1...@hotmail.com wrote: Good Morning, Just finish my K2 serial 7179 a week ago, I run thru the menus and I was learnig how to use it in the best way, and now I do not undurstand the Keying Weight (DOT) menu. Shouldn't it be in a 1:1 default setting? I am used to a 1:1 ratio, for that the menu is 1.00 setting? Right? Does anybody knows why the default setting is 1.10? Thank you in advance. 73 Pedro CT2GET __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Keying Weight (DOT) menu
Thank you for your rapid reply. I am not very good at morse code, just learn it. The audio morse tone locks good as the morse does. I will try to see it im my osciloscope, dot one square, dash three squares... at least this way I am able to see exactly what the menu is changing, afther all I don´t think it will need adjustment. 73 Pedro CT2GET Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 11:31:49 -0400 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Keying Weight (DOT) menu From: olin...@bellsouth.net To: pedrocorreia1...@hotmail.com CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Many of the K2 settings are somewhat relative, depending ultimately on your actual component values, which are not exact, but within a manufacturing tolerance. Listen to your transmitted dots on a separate RX and see if they SOUND equal. Adjust the number if you think dots are too long or too short. If it SOUNDS equal, leave it alone. 73, Guy. On Thu, Jul 28, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Pedro Correia pedrocorreia1...@hotmail.com wrote: Good Morning, Just finish my K2 serial 7179 a week ago, I run thru the menus and I was learnig how to use it in the best way, and now I do not undurstand the Keying Weight (DOT) menu. Shouldn't it be in a 1:1 default setting? I am used to a 1:1 ratio, for that the menu is 1.00 setting? Right? Does anybody knows why the default setting is 1.10? Thank you in advance. 73 Pedro CT2GET __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Keying Weight (DOT) menu
Trust your ears. If it sounds good, it is good. Other people are copying with their ears too. They are not using an oscilloscope to copy. 73 GL, Guy On Thu, Jul 28, 2011 at 11:51 AM, Pedro Correia pedrocorreia1...@hotmail.com wrote: Thank you for your rapid reply. I am not very good at morse code, just learn it. The audio morse tone locks good as the morse does. I will try to see it im my osciloscope, dot one square, dash three squares... at least this way I am able to see exactly what the menu is changing, afther all I don´t think it will need adjustment. 73 Pedro CT2GET Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 11:31:49 -0400 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Keying Weight (DOT) menu From: olin...@bellsouth.net To: pedrocorreia1...@hotmail.com CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Many of the K2 settings are somewhat relative, depending ultimately on your actual component values, which are not exact, but within a manufacturing tolerance. Listen to your transmitted dots on a separate RX and see if they SOUND equal. Adjust the number if you think dots are too long or too short. If it SOUNDS equal, leave it alone. 73, Guy. On Thu, Jul 28, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Pedro Correia pedrocorreia1...@hotmail.com wrote: Good Morning, Just finish my K2 serial 7179 a week ago, I run thru the menus and I was learnig how to use it in the best way, and now I do not undurstand the Keying Weight (DOT) menu. Shouldn't it be in a 1:1 default setting? I am used to a 1:1 ratio, for that the menu is 1.00 setting? Right? Does anybody knows why the default setting is 1.10? Thank you in advance. 73 Pedro CT2GET __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Sidetone has suddenly disappeared.
The little manuals by Nifty are excellent. I have used both the K2 and K3 versions. These are about as comprehensive as necessary, as well as durable and handy. http://www.niftyaccessories.com/Elecraft_RefGuide.htm John Ragle -- W1ZI = On 7/28/2011 10:32 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: It would be nice if some enterprising K2 owner would write a comprehensive K2 Owner's Manual since many K2s now are not owned by those who have built one. Is there anyone out there up to the task? I simply do not have the time to do that. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] WTB PR6 6M AMP
I'm interested in purchasing an Elecraft PR6 6 Meter Pre amp for around $75 if someone has one for sale. Please contact me off the reflector. Thank you, Michael N6MQL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] One-Page K2 Ops Guide
To the writers who were discussing operational guides for the K2, W3FPR has a nice one-page PDF on the K2. http://www.w3fpr.com/ He attributes the guide to someone else, but I did not readily spot the author's name. 72. Jim Stephens, NX8Z, + Hurricane, West Virginia, USA E-mail railfan...@gmail.com Cell 304.552.6454 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KPA500 #245 Kit
Ordered 15 May, left Watsonville last Wednesday July 20th via USPS and I picked it up yesterday (27 July) from Parcelforce Worldwide, Leeds. For once Parcelforce have been quick. No missing parts. Assembly under way. 73 to all, Geoff G3UCK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] full-duplex K3?
Recent messages here and on amsat-bb remind me to ask: Has full-duplex with converters been evaluated on the K3 (and failed to be possible, for whatever reason?), or has that as a feature been pushed down (so far it may never surface)? I've got to say, a K3 + KX3 for that application seems a possibility in the future as an alternative. 73, doug __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Please ignore
test __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Test-please ignore
As in title. Sorry but I have to check as I can't post anything. Tomasz __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] 25% off code for KE7X K3 Book
I ordered mine last Wed, and it arrived on Monday of this week, 5 days. Mike W0IH -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/25-off-code-for-KE7X-K3-Book-tp6627791p6631415.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KXw with Bluetooth?
One of the things that I'd like to see on a rig is a bluetooth headset connection for the mobile setup. I've tried a Jabra transmitter (from a phone) and a BlueParrot headset, but had too many problems with the Jabra transmitter not connecting. The headset has noise canceling and worked GREAT (including with my noisy convertible). Used it both with VOX and a remote PTT line. It's nice in a mobile setup to not have to have so many cables. Also handy in the shack. I keep hoping that there would be a rig with bluetooth built in along with a PTT line... (hint). Might open a new market for headsets with PTT. Mike -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KXw-with-Bluetooth-tp6631444p6631444.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KPA500 on 240 VAC in the USA?
Anybody using 240 VAC in the US? So it uses the same connector on the amp, but you have to fit a different plug to mate with your 240VAC/20A wall socket? Looks like this -! ...only without the dot. Or better still, any droop using the 120VAC option? About 10 amps I guess. Chuck, KE9UW -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-on-240-VAC-in-the-USA-tp6631465p6631465.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 on 240 VAC in the USA?
I am using a separate 220v cable with a 15 amp plug. This cable can be purchased from Datacomm Cables, Inc. It is NEMA 6-15P to IEC320 C13 - 5A - 6 Feet. This is a 14 gauge 3 wire SJT jacket black cable. Cost is $18.25 shipped. This is a molded cable on both ends and works well with my KPA500. I can easily replace the 6 amp fuses with the 12 amp fuses, turn over the fuse block, install the 115v cable. I am then ready for 115v operation. I like this flexibility without having to open the amp to make this change. I have no connection whatsoever with Datacomm Cables, Inc. other than being a satisfied customer. Roy Morris W4WFB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 on 240 VAC in the USA?
Chuck, The do-it-yourself solution is to purchase a plug that matches your socket, cut off the 115 volt plug and install the 230 volt plug. Those plugs are available at DIY and hardware stores as well as at electrical supply centers. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/28/2011 5:39 PM, ke9uw wrote: Anybody using 240 VAC in the US? So it uses the same connector on the amp, but you have to fit a different plug to mate with your 240VAC/20A wall socket? Looks like this -! ...only without the dot. Or better still, any droop using the 120VAC option? About 10 amps I guess. Chuck, KE9UW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 on 240 VAC in the USA?
Oh, yes, several of the field testers ran it on 240VAC and, of course, many European customers are running with 240VAC. There are at least two different connectors used for 240VAC mains in the USA, depending upon the current the outlet is rated for. From my experience, I definitely would not go to the cost of installing 240V in the shack just for the KPA500. I probably have a worst-case situation here for operating from 120 VAC. My shack has a 15 amp outlet over 60 feet from the breaker panel. That's 60 feet of #14 copper wire, IIRC (1970's construction). Lights, the K3, and other accessories are on the outlet along with the KPA500 (Of course the K3 draws much reduced current when driving the KPA500). I see a 10 volt droop at 500W on the band where the KPA500 draws the highest current (6 meters). The selectable tap arrangement on the power transformer* provides the range I need to maintain the supply voltage for full output and lowest distortion even with that much mains droop. Ron AC7AC * Described under Installation in the KPA500 Owner's manual -Original Message- Anybody using 240 VAC in the US? So it uses the same connector on the amp, but you have to fit a different plug to mate with your 240VAC/20A wall socket? Looks like this -! ...only without the dot. Or better still, any droop using the 120VAC option? About 10 amps I guess. Chuck, KE9UW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 on 240 VAC in the USA?
On 7/28/2011 2:39 PM, ke9uw wrote: Anybody using 240 VAC in the US? So it uses the same connector on the amp, but you have to fit a different plug to mate with your 240VAC/20A wall socket? Looks like this -! ...only without the dot. Or better still, any droop using the 120VAC option? I have 240VAC in the shack to run my legal limit Ten Tec amps, but I've never taken the trouble to add another outlet so I could use it for my KPA500. I'm running on a 120V/20A circuit that' probably about 50 ft of wire from the panel. I get 550W out on 6M and 675W on the HF bands. If the match were better on 6M I might get a bit more. If you already have 240V in the shack, all it takes to try it is to buy a new standard IEC line cord (but buy a #14 -- most standard IEC cords are #18) and stick a male plug on it that matches your 240V outlet. If you don't have 240V in the shack, I wouldn't worry about it. And there are instructions in the manual about how to change transformer taps if you need to for full power. FWIW, I don't think Ron's 60 ft of #14 is anywhere near worst case. In many houses you can have 100-200 ft between the panel and an outlet, often with multiple outlets daisy-chained, and with shared neutrals. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Mosley TH-3jr Weirdness
H Gang: I have a very strange request for info. I inherited a Mosley TH-3jr tri-bander from Russ, AE4NY. The driven element has two (2) 7ft 3 inch pieces of multi-strand wire (NOT coax) in a very heavy insulation running from the SO=239 down each side of the driven element. I have never seen this before. The length does not equate to any ham band covered by the antenna (it covers 20/15 10M). As near as I can tell each piece of wire sits inside the aluminum tubing and the is connected to the coaxial connected but for what purpose I haven't the faintest. So, anyone have an idea as to why this insulated wire sits inside the DE on this tri-bander?? I have photos that I will send to anyone who wants to have a look. I don't want to attach them to this mssg as it is going to several lists. Any info or ideas would be of help as this antenna is due to go up in the air hopefully this weekend. Pls reply off list. Tnx 73 Rich Arland, K7SZ Bent Dipole Ranch, Dacula, GA Cogito Ergo CQ (I think therefore I HAM) Author: The ARRL's Low Power Communications, the Art and Science of QRP (all 3 editions) Editor: QRP POWER, QST Magazine (Jan 2000 to Dec 2003) Editor: The Learning Curve, CQ Magazine Editor: The Beginner's Column, CQ-VHF Magazine __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Mosley TH-3jr Weirdness
part of the beta match perhaps? http://www.hy-gain.com/pdffiles/TH-3JRS.pdf GB 73 K5OAI Sam Morgan On 7/28/2011 7:03 PM, Rich Arland wrote: H Gang: I have a very strange request for info. I inherited a Mosley TH-3jr tri-bander from Russ, AE4NY. The driven element has two (2) 7ft 3 inch pieces of multi-strand wire (NOT coax) in a very heavy insulation running from the SO=239 down each side of the driven element. I have never seen this before. The length does not equate to any ham band covered by the antenna (it covers 20/1510M). As near as I can tell each piece of wire sits inside the aluminum tubing and the is connected to the coaxial connected but for what purpose I haven't the faintest. So, anyone have an idea as to why this insulated wire sits inside the DE on this tri-bander?? I have photos that I will send to anyone who wants to have a look. I don't want to attach them to this mssg as it is going to several lists. Any info or ideas would be of help as this antenna is due to go up in the air hopefully this weekend. Pls reply off list. Tnx 73 Rich Arland, K7SZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [SECC] Mosley TH-3jr Weirdness
OK, Gang!!! I stand corrected...this is a Classic 33!!! And several of you have told me that this is a capacitive feed system that works very well. I will yield to the expertise to the group. Don't know why I decided that it was a TH-3jrsynapse lapse OK, we are on the right track now, folks!! I am going to scrub the aluminum and get it looking purty so when it goes up in the air I can point up to it and say, That is my antennathere are many like it but this one is mine!! (any Gyreenes in the crowd??) At any rate, I hope to have this puppy in the air by the end of this weekend, God willing and the creek don't rise. I need to get the Glen Martin roof tower in place and secured to the rafters, but that is relatively small potatoes compared to getting the Yagi up in the air. Thanks to all who replied. If any of you have any further ideas/suggestions please don't hesitate to e-mail me pronto. All suggestions/ideas are gratefully accepted. 73 Rich Arland, K7SZ Bent Dipole Ranch, Dacula, GA Cogito Ergo CQ (I think therefore I HAM) Author: The ARRL's Low Power Communications, the Art and Science of QRP (all 3 editions) Editor: QRP POWER, QST Magazine (Jan 2000 to Dec 2003) Editor: The Learning Curve, CQ Magazine Editor: The Beginner's Column, CQ-VHF Magazine From: k...@live.com To: noga...@yahoogroups.com; s...@contesting.com; se...@contesting.com; g...@yahoogroups.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 20:03:48 -0400 Subject: [SECC] Mosley TH-3jr Weirdness H Gang: I have a very strange request for info. I inherited a Mosley TH-3jr tri-bander from Russ, AE4NY. The driven element has two (2) 7ft 3 inch pieces of multi-strand wire (NOT coax) in a very heavy insulation running from the SO=239 down each side of the driven element. I have never seen this before. The length does not equate to any ham band covered by the antenna (it covers 20/15 10M). As near as I can tell each piece of wire sits inside the aluminum tubing and the is connected to the coaxial connected but for what purpose I haven't the faintest. So, anyone have an idea as to why this insulated wire sits inside the DE on this tri-bander?? I have photos that I will send to anyone who wants to have a look. I don't want to attach them to this mssg as it is going to several lists. Any info or ideas would be of help as this antenna is due to go up in the air hopefully this weekend. Pls reply off list. Tnx 73 Rich Arland, K7SZ Bent Dipole Ranch, Dacula, GA Cogito Ergo CQ (I think therefore I HAM) Author: The ARRL's Low Power Communications, the Art and Science of QRP (all 3 editions) Editor: QRP POWER, QST Magazine (Jan 2000 to Dec 2003) Editor: The Learning Curve, CQ Magazine Editor: The Beginner's Column, CQ-VHF Magazine ___ SECC mailing list s...@contesting.com http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/secc __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K2] WTB: K160RX module
If anyone has a surplus K160RX module for the K2 that you're willing to sell, please contact me privately at K8CN (at) arrl (dot) net. Thanks! Mike, K8CN -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-WTB-K160RX-module-tp6631966p6631966.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Mosley TH-3jr Weirdness
My TH-3jr does NOT have that wire and it does not appear in the assembly instructions. Doug -- K0DXV On 7/28/11 6:03 PM, Rich Arland wrote: H Gang: I have a very strange request for info. I inherited a Mosley TH-3jr tri-bander from Russ, AE4NY. The driven element has two (2) 7ft 3 inch pieces of multi-strand wire (NOT coax) in a very heavy insulation running from the SO=239 down each side of the driven element. I have never seen this before. The length does not equate to any ham band covered by the antenna (it covers 20/1510M). As near as I can tell each piece of wire sits inside the aluminum tubing and the is connected to the coaxial connected but for what purpose I haven't the faintest. So, anyone have an idea as to why this insulated wire sits inside the DE on this tri-bander?? I have photos that I will send to anyone who wants to have a look. I don't want to attach them to this mssg as it is going to several lists. Any info or ideas would be of help as this antenna is due to go up in the air hopefully this weekend. Pls reply off list. Tnx 73 Rich Arland, K7SZ Bent Dipole Ranch, Dacula, GA Cogito Ergo CQ (I think therefore I HAM) Author: The ARRL's Low Power Communications, the Art and Science of QRP (all 3 editions) Editor: QRP POWER, QST Magazine (Jan 2000 to Dec 2003) Editor: The Learning Curve, CQ Magazine Editor: The Beginner's Column, CQ-VHF Magazine __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [SECC] Mosley TH-3jr Weirdness
Rich, Wrap the ends of the wire (Actually Coax Center Conductor) with Electrical tape. As antenna hangs in the heat and cold and does the antenna thing, the insulation will migrate, leaving a small stub of copper conductor sticking out. And it is possible to get arcs off of it if you don't insulate it. Also, there is some special goop that you coat the aluminum with after you brighten up the joints. I think you can use Penetrox or NoAlOx, but the folks on the Elecraft list can better enlighten you. Also, the folks at Mosley can enlighten you with more information: http://www.mosley-electronics.com/page%20files/home.htm Between your Mosley Classic 33, and the Glen Martin Tower, we appreciate you doing business with Amateur Radio suppliers from Missouri! 73 de KA0OUV -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rich Arland Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2011 20:16 To: North Georgia QRP Group; SECC; South East DX Club; Gwinnett ARS; Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [SECC] Mosley TH-3jr Weirdness OK, Gang!!! I stand corrected...this is a Classic 33!!! And several of you have told me that this is a capacitive feed system that works very well. I will yield to the expertise to the group. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K3] Macro enhancement suggestion
I set out to make four macros so that I could select either of two mics (CM500 HC4) in either of two modes (contest/DX net/ragchew). This involves setting mic HI/LO and bias ON/OFF that toggle by a keypress, so you can't be sure whether you need to do a keypress unless you know the initial state. In other words, you can't write a macro that's guaranteed to work. In practice, you'll have about a 50% failure rate. Am I missing something? If not, I have a suggestion: In addition to the UP and DN commands, have a command to reset the menu entry to a known ground state. This could possible be a press of the CLR button, or maybe a new command. One could then proceed with confidence to set up the desired parameters. Adding commands to cover specific menu items would be another approach. This would also cover the case of not knowing how many DN commands to send if in the future more knob-selectable menu entries were added. Elecraft could add more selections and your macros wouldn't break. 73 and thanks for listening Carl WS7L K3 #486 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Macro enhancement suggestion
Hi Carl, I like your idea of a reset-to-known-state command usable with macros. I'll add this to my list. tnx Wayne N6KR On Jul 28, 2011, at 10:19 PM, Carl Clawson wrote: I set out to make four macros so that I could select either of two mics (CM500 HC4) in either of two modes (contest/DX net/ragchew). This involves setting mic HI/LO and bias ON/OFF that toggle by a keypress, so you can't be sure whether you need to do a keypress unless you know the initial state. In other words, you can't write a macro that's guaranteed to work. In practice, you'll have about a 50% failure rate. Am I missing something? If not, I have a suggestion: In addition to the UP and DN commands, have a command to reset the menu entry to a known ground state. This could possible be a press of the CLR button, or maybe a new command. One could then proceed with confidence to set up the desired parameters. Adding commands to cover specific menu items would be another approach. This would also cover the case of not knowing how many DN commands to send if in the future more knob-selectable menu entries were added. Elecraft could add more selections and your macros wouldn't break. 73 and thanks for listening Carl WS7L K3 #486 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
