Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Leftover parts?

2011-09-14 Thread PTA_ABD
Same deal here a few weeks ago.  K6RB is exactly correct. The purpose of the 
washers and nut is to provide extra support so that the bottom panel wouldn't 
suffer any warpage during rough handling. ( There's a plate underneath anyway)  
I can assure all that it works fine without them. I have no intention of 
tearing it apart because it will be sitting on my desk. Not sure what anyone 
else does with amplifiers in terms of physically handling them.

Surprised that they're still being shipped w/o an included addendum to the 
assembly manual. Revision wasn't on the website last time I looked either. But 
a query to Support brought an immediate answer.  I love the Support crew at 
Elecraft can't say enough about them.

Paul WB2ABD
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Leftover parts?

2011-09-14 Thread David Christ
I too got the extra parts.  But if I recall 
correctly, the bolt was not threaded all the way 
down.  Some day I may take the trouble to look, 
but it is not worth the trouble to open the box 
at this time.

David

>
>  >
>>  According to Elecraft, these parts are a very recent addition to the kit
>>  and
>>  their purpose is to add support to the transformer bolt.  In building
>>  #401,
>>  I also discovered these additional parts and sent an email to Elecraft
>>  support.  They sent me a modified page 32 of the assembly manual that
>>  shows
>>  the placement of the two flat washers, lock washer and nut at the bottom
>>  of
>>  the bolt, flush with the inside bottom rubber disk.  I am including an
>>  image
>>  below; hopefully it will show properly.
>>
>>  http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n6795115/%24RLNYG9V.png
>>
>>  -
>>  73, Stan - KR7C
>  > --
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s and P3s Can't Swim

2011-09-14 Thread R Thompson
"It works fine" would be a matter of opinion, not the result of bench
testing.  So, I wonder how the grease in the VFO handled the "grease
cutters" of the dishwasher soap?  What did it do to the fine lubricants
in the switches, and potentiometers, or the finish on the rotary
switches?  

We use shock indicators on sensitive aircraft instruments to tell if
they've had rough handling, and some equipment is packed with moisture
indicator cards.  Cell phones used to have a moisture indicator built
into them, if it indicated that the cell phone had been overly exposed
to moisture then your warranty was void.

If you're satisfied with compromised gear, and its not going into a
critical application then have at it.  Hearing these stories gives me
the creeps, I'm not coming back to this thread.

Ron VE8RT

On Wed, 2011-09-14 at 22:40 -0500, Dave, W8OV wrote:
> KH6/W3GW tried this with another rig, after removing the speaker:
> 
> "The Corsair arrived last year from E-bay. I opened the box and thought 
> I had bought a bag of cigarette butts. The price was dirt cheap so I put 
> it in the dishwasher and put it through a few cycles except I did not 
> let the dishwasher dry it. For that, I put it out in the Maui sun for a 
> week bringing it in at night. No more cigarette smoke smell. It works 
> fine though I did have to touch up some of the frequency adjustments."
> 
> (From an e-mail on another list.)
> 
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[Elecraft] Extra parts

2011-09-14 Thread Art Nienhouse
I was able to just take off the top cover and hold down for the power
transformer.
Then install the extra parts use a deep 1/2 " socket to tighten up the nut
holding the long socket with threads  coming through top of the socket
then tighten the nut under the bottom.
It all tightened up well had to hold the socket with a pliers for finish 
torque
on the nut. All that was needed  is to take off the top cover to finish the
installation.

Regards
Art
ka9zap
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s and P3s Can't Swim

2011-09-14 Thread Dave, W8OV
KH6/W3GW tried this with another rig, after removing the speaker:

"The Corsair arrived last year from E-bay. I opened the box and thought 
I had bought a bag of cigarette butts. The price was dirt cheap so I put 
it in the dishwasher and put it through a few cycles except I did not 
let the dishwasher dry it. For that, I put it out in the Maui sun for a 
week bringing it in at night. No more cigarette smoke smell. It works 
fine though I did have to touch up some of the frequency adjustments."

(From an e-mail on another list.)

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 and the KPAK3AUX Cable - lessons learned

2011-09-14 Thread Rick Tavan N6XI
There are, however, 15-pin straight-through cables available that you can
use with a circuit interrupter (female-male D-Sub connector). I got a six
foot cable, just about right in my station. You simply pull the unwanted
pins from the D-sub. This is the same technique Elecraft uses with their
too-short, custom  KPAK3AUX cable and its interrupter although you'll want
to pull a few more pins.

/Rick

On Tue, Sep 13, 2011 at 1:58 PM, Peter Chamalian  wrote:

> I know the instructions for the KPA-500 say not to use a standard SVGA
> cable.  The special KPAK3AUX cable is the way to go.  But that cable is too
> short for the arrangement I had for my station so I thought I could use a
> standard SVGA expansion cable (female connector on one end, male on the
> other).
>
>
>
> What I didn't fully digest is that the wiring is incompatible!  I thought
> the difference was merely the removal of a few pins from a standard SVGA
> cable.
>
>
>
> Nope, that doesn't work!  So if your station requires a longer cable than
> the KPAK3AUX you can either purchase two cables and put them in series or
> you can make up your own.  Don't use a standard SVGA cable at all.
>
>
>
> In my case, I just rearranged the equipment.
>
> Pete, W1RM
>
>
>
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-- 
Rick Tavan N6XI
Truckee, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s and P3s Can't Swim

2011-09-14 Thread R Thompson
Speaking from a 30+ year background in avionics repair, its finished,
period!

Wash and dry it if you'd like, and it may even work or appear to work,
but you cannot clean out components like potentiometers, unsealed
inductors/transformers, variable capacitors, and switches, etc..  If I
bought something like that, working or not, from someone who didn't tell
me upfront about it's history I'd be pretty upset when I found the
evidence of what had happened.

Take the insurance if there is any, to bring it back to the
manufacturer's specifications will be way too costly and not practical.

Being a homebuilder I wouldn't dispatch it to the dump either, the
sealed components would be useable as spares or parts for other
projects.

   Ron VE8RT



On Wed, 2011-09-14 at 21:20 -0400, patrick taylor wrote:
> I live in Bloomsburg, Pa and we just experienced a record flood on the
> Susquehanna River. The sewer backed up to a level of about 4 feet in our
> basement while we were under a mandatory evacuaton. The K3 and P3 were under
> about 18 inches of muddy water. Has anyone ever experienced this and found a
> way to clean and repair the equipment or should it be dispatched to the
> dump. It was a very bad day!
> 
> 73s Pat W3HVG
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[Elecraft] lighten strike

2011-09-14 Thread Scott McDowell
A couple of years ago I had a lightening strike directly to 
my tower. I didn't know that there was a cloud in the
sky until that happened. It not only ruined ever piece
of ham equipment I had, but also got into the electrical
system in the house and ruined several appliances.
I was in the shack at the time, but was not using any
of the equipment that was burned to a crisp, or I 
wouldn't be around to write this!!
I was lucky that I had good insurance. It paid for all
the crispy critters.
 
So everyone should be aware of what the weather is
doing outside before sitting down to  operate your rig.
It could mean whether you stay alive or not !!
73
Scott n5sm
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[Elecraft] Lightning Strike - Metal Roof attracts?

2011-09-14 Thread Dick Williams

I have to totally disagree with Drew's (AF2Z) statement that " the rare
close strike probably means everything that is connected will get taken
out".  Nothing can be further from the truth. The next three paragraphs are
quoted from WR Blocks web site (W3FPR specifically mentions Ron Block in his
rather verbose dissertation in his email below):



"Our challenge is to assemble the best amateur radio station possible, enjoy
the benefits of the hobby, and have our station operable during times of
need.  This can be a significant challenge especially considering the height
of the antenna and the awesome capabilities of Mother Nature's lightning
strikes.  While she may have the upper hand as far as when and how much
energy she delivers, you have the ability to influence how that energy is
diverted into the earth.  Said another way, you can implement a lightning
protection plan that will protect your amateur radio station, even from a
direct strike!  

The commercial radio folks have done this for years; many of them have
critical, must operate, installations in some very difficult to reach
locations.  Many of the installations are located on hills or mountaintops
that afford the best area coverage and are great lightning strike targets.
They do survive direct strikes and continue to provide important services to
the communities that they serve.  While this type of solution is possible
for the amateur radio station, it does cost money and it does take a
significant amount of resourcefulness, ingenuity, and effort to implement
and maintain.  

The plan does work; but you must follow all of the rules, exactly.  Any
violation of the rules, even just a little one, may result in a violation of
the protection plan and damage to your equipment.  In some cases the damage
to a semi-protected radio station could be worse than if no protection plan
had been implemented at all.  I'll start with some background and then get
into the heart of the matter."



Don's (W3FPR) is right on track.  I have lived south of Denver on top of a
hill since 1993, and moderate to severe thunderstorms seem to be the rule
rather than the exception in the Spring and Summer (around 40 or so).
Though I can't say that I have ever watched one of my towers take a hit (not
in the habit of sitting by a window during a lightning storm and "standing
watch" over my towers - I normally hibernate in the shack and use the
computer while enjoying feeling the house shake with the close by lightning
strikes);   one evening (wife and I were out) the fire dept told me they
responded to the house after receiving a call from a passing motorist that
he saw one of my towers being hit by lightning.  They did not find any
damage, nor did I after I arrived home and checked everything out.  In an
earlier post, I mentioned that I did have some damage to the M2 Orion 2800
rotor (on the 120 ft tower) and a diode in one of my Hy-Gain rotor relay
switch boxes being shorted after a storm last week.  If that is the only two
"hits" I have had in 18 years, I am pretty damn lucky;  according to the
charts, my 120 ft tower has a probability of being hit 2 1/2 times a year
based on the number of "thunderstorm days".

When I was erecting my "antenna farm" I was well aware of the lightning
problems associated with living on top of a hill at 6600 ft; and took the
necessary steps to minimize the risks of sustaining substantial damage to my
equipment. All I will say is I can't agree more with what W3FPR states;  but
rather than try and "dig up" old QST articles, just go to Ron Blocks web
site  (http://www.wrblock.com) and "click" on PAPERS.  That will tell you
everything you ever wanted to know about lightning protection and what you
need to do to effectively "ground" your station.

Since I am not a big fan of "practice bleeding", I do not operate during a
storm; and I try and remember to disconnect the coax and rotor cables
(normally four - five if the 2 mtr radio is connected).  However, I have to
admit that more than once I did not disconnect stuff prior to leaving and a
storm rolled through while I was gone. I can't believe that Drew disconnects
everything from his K3, PC and router;  I can't imagine the amount of time
that must take having to connect and then re-connect every time it is going
to storm (I have around 14 or so connected to the K3 - it would take me at
least 15 minutes to figure out where each one goes!). 

Dick K8ZTT 


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 6:01 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Lightning Strike - Metal Roof attracts?

An alternative to unplugging everything -- create a system where 
everything will be at the same potential through a surge event and you 
will have no damage.

Run a #4 (or larger) perimeter wire around your house (and any other 
buildings) with a ground rod at each point where it cha

Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Leftover parts?

2011-09-14 Thread k6rb
If the KPA-500 is not being carried around, but is sitting on a desk, then
I don't think you have to worry about the hardware until you have a reason
to get inside and install it (e.g. you're planning to take it on a trip or
something). And, I agree with Johnny, it should have been updated in our
assembly manuals when we received our kits. Doing it after fact means
disassembling some panels, unplugging a bunch of wires, removing the
transformer, etc. It is a PIA.

Rob K6RB

> Hello Stan,
>  
> Thanks for information.  Elecraft should include this information in my
> kit package and update their manual accordingly.  My KPA500 kit was
> just 3 weeks old but without such information.
>  
> Anyway, it seems I need to dismantle my KPA500 and install these 'spare,
> leftover hardware'
>  
> A real pain of the neck introduced and caused by Elecraft but I love it
> :)
>
> TNX & 73,
>
>
> Johnny VR2XMC
>
> 從︰ Stan Gibbs 
> 收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 傳送日期︰ 2011年09月15日 (週四) 8:51 AM
> 主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Leftover parts?
>
> According to Elecraft, these parts are a very recent addition to the kit
> and
> their purpose is to add support to the transformer bolt.  In building
> #401,
> I also discovered these additional parts and sent an email to Elecraft
> support.  They sent me a modified page 32 of the assembly manual that
> shows
> the placement of the two flat washers, lock washer and nut at the bottom
> of
> the bolt, flush with the inside bottom rubber disk.  I am including an
> image
> below; hopefully it will show properly.
>
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n6795115/%24RLNYG9V.png
>
> -
> 73, Stan - KR7C
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-Leftover-parts-tp6793858p6795115.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s and P3s Can't Swim

2011-09-14 Thread wb6rse1
There was an Strays in QST MANY years ago about a Collins 75A series receiver 
that had fallen off of a dock at a port in Africa while in it's crate. (Anyone 
else recall that story?) The recipient retrieved the crate, removed all of the 
tubes, washed every corner with fresh water and let it bake in the African sun. 
Once dried and the tubes reinstalled, it worked perfectly. That was a Collins.

The K3 and P3 are different technologies of course, but you could do worse than 
to try the cleaning suggestions already mentioned since you consider the K3/P3 
a total loss anyway.

GL - Steve WB6RSE
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s and P3s Can't Swim

2011-09-14 Thread Dale Putnam

I've washed a number of radios that have been flooded, the most successful, 
with the least amount of trouble, was when Iflooded the radios as soon as 
possible after the mud and water was introduced. Flushed with lots of clean 
water, under, in, around,and through, every nook and cranny. Then... left to 
dry. Here the humidity is rather low, 20 - 30% so the radios stayed out in the 
sun, brought in every night for a week. Then before power would be applied, a 
vom to check the transformer for dc shorts, and relube the controls. Then each 
one powered up with a 60 watt bulb in series with the line.Worked rather well, 
didn't lose a one, and that same tatic, worked on two Model 19 teletype 
machines... the relube job was fun tho. (drowned them in 10w oil) they dripped 
for a week. But worked.   In a higher humidity area, sitting them near a heat 
lamp... may work, if extreme care is used to not over heat. And if you err... 
make it on the length of time... not the shortness of the drying 
 period. The more if cans, and traps for water, the longer it needs to dry.  A 
certain commercial radio was drowned in sulfuric acid, from a concrete truck, 
hi power acid, tends to do bad things that one took three water baths, ... 
each one lasting over an hour.all in the same afternoon... had to relocate to 
move the puddle then two weeks of drying time in the sun...and after the 
pcb traces were repaired it worked too. Good luck, and after you get it all 
cleaned up... it's nice to have clean equipment. 

--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
 > Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 18:37:06 -0700
> From: alexeyk...@gmail.com
> To: k...@swbell.net
> CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; ptayl...@gmail.com
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s and P3s Can't Swim
> 
> Lee,
> 
> Out of sheer curiosity, did you mean 150 degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit? (For
> the record - 150 F is approximately 65 C, quite normal for electronics. On
> the other hand, 150 C is approximately 300 F - a little bit too high, I am
> afraid. Not too high to cause the solder to melt, but still too high,
> especially to things like TFT monitors or LCD displays.)
> 
> On Wed, Sep 14, 2011 at 6:24 PM, Lee Buller  wrote:
> 
> >
> > Well, get the insurance for sure.
> >
> > But, I've seen electronics cleaned out with a hose with clean water.  Then
> > I've
> > seen them dried with a hair dryeror baked slowly in an over at 150
> > degrees.  Thenthe worked.
> >
> > Lee
> > K0WA
> >
> 
> -- 
> Alexey Kats (neko)
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s and P3s Can't Swim

2011-09-14 Thread riese-k3djc
get the mud off with clean water and then lots of alcohol 
the issue wit any electronics is getting power off/batteries out
and then dry out,, the alcohol will help get rid of the water
you didnt say if there was mud or just wet,, if it isnt too dirty then
alcohol
and invest in a can of deoxit to spray the switches
make sure it is dry before B + ing it

Bob K3djc


On Wed, 14 Sep 2011 21:20:17 -0400 patrick taylor 
writes:
> I live in Bloomsburg, Pa and we just experienced a record flood on 
> the
> Susquehanna River. The sewer backed up to a level of about 4 feet in 
> our
> basement while we were under a mandatory evacuaton. The K3 and P3 
> were under
> about 18 inches of muddy water. Has anyone ever experienced this and 
> found a
> way to clean and repair the equipment or should it be dispatched to 
> the
> dump. It was a very bad day!
> 
> 73s Pat W3HVG
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> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3s and P3s Can't Swim

2011-09-14 Thread Alexey Kats
Lee,

Out of sheer curiosity, did you mean 150 degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit? (For
the record - 150 F is approximately 65 C, quite normal for electronics. On
the other hand, 150 C is approximately 300 F - a little bit too high, I am
afraid. Not too high to cause the solder to melt, but still too high,
especially to things like TFT monitors or LCD displays.)

On Wed, Sep 14, 2011 at 6:24 PM, Lee Buller  wrote:

>
> Well, get the insurance for sure.
>
> But, I've seen electronics cleaned out with a hose with clean water.  Then
> I've
> seen them dried with a hair dryeror baked slowly in an over at 150
> degrees.  Thenthe worked.
>
> Lee
> K0WA
>

-- 
Alexey Kats (neko)
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s and P3s Can't Swim

2011-09-14 Thread Lee Buller

Well, get the insurance for sure.

But, I've seen electronics cleaned out with a hose with clean water.  Then I've 
seen them dried with a hair dryeror baked slowly in an over at 150 
degrees.  Thenthe worked.

Lee
K0WA


 In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any 
Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common 
Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind. 
-  John W. (Kansas)







From: patrick taylor 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wed, September 14, 2011 8:20:17 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3s and P3s Can't Swim

I live in Bloomsburg, Pa and we just experienced a record flood on the
Susquehanna River. The sewer backed up to a level of about 4 feet in our
basement while we were under a mandatory evacuaton. The K3 and P3 were under
about 18 inches of muddy water. Has anyone ever experienced this and found a
way to clean and repair the equipment or should it be dispatched to the
dump. It was a very bad day!

73s Pat W3HVG
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[Elecraft] K3s and P3s Can't Swim

2011-09-14 Thread patrick taylor
I live in Bloomsburg, Pa and we just experienced a record flood on the
Susquehanna River. The sewer backed up to a level of about 4 feet in our
basement while we were under a mandatory evacuaton. The K3 and P3 were under
about 18 inches of muddy water. Has anyone ever experienced this and found a
way to clean and repair the equipment or should it be dispatched to the
dump. It was a very bad day!

73s Pat W3HVG
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[Elecraft] [KPA500] Leftover parts?

2011-09-14 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Stan,
 
Thanks for information.  Elecraft should include this information in my kit 
package and update their manual accordingly.  My KPA500 kit was just 3 weeks 
old but without such information.
 
Anyway, it seems I need to dismantle my KPA500 and install these 'spare, 
leftover hardware'
 
A real pain of the neck introduced and caused by Elecraft but I love it :)

TNX & 73,


Johnny VR2XMC

從︰ Stan Gibbs 
收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期︰ 2011年09月15日 (週四) 8:51 AM
主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Leftover parts?

According to Elecraft, these parts are a very recent addition to the kit and
their purpose is to add support to the transformer bolt.  In building #401,
I also discovered these additional parts and sent an email to Elecraft
support.  They sent me a modified page 32 of the assembly manual that shows
the placement of the two flat washers, lock washer and nut at the bottom of
the bolt, flush with the inside bottom rubber disk.  I am including an image
below; hopefully it will show properly.

http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n6795115/%24RLNYG9V.png 

-
73, Stan - KR7C
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-Leftover-parts-tp6793858p6795115.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] KPA500 design questions from a green horn

2011-09-14 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Group,
 
I would like to learn more about the design and priniciples of solid state RF 
linear amplifier.
 
The PSU inside KPA500 is linear and non-regulated.  In my case, under no load 
condition, the HV is about 73v but is about 53v under full load.  The HV is 
changing according to the power output.  Then, how can the linearity of the 
amplifier be maintained?
 
I studied (or used in the past) some of the linear amplifiers in the market.  
Some of them are having regulated HV and some of them not.  What is the design 
criteria of choosing regulated or non-regulated HV?
 
Some of the reflector members are so kind to provide me with test reports of 
KPA500.  I tried to compare KPA500 with the ARRL reports of other linear 
amplfiers.  Surprisingly, the IMD of SPE 1ka-Expert is the best among the solid 
state amplifers and better than KPA500.  
 
However, SPE only uses 6 x MRF150 to produce some 900w output.  Apparently, the 
MRF150 are quite pushed to the extreme.  How can SPE achieve such a low IMD in 
accordance with ARRL report? SPE also uses linear and non-regulated PSU.
 
One the other hand, ICOM  ICPW1 (one of my favorite work horse) is using 8 x 
MRF150 and regulated switching PSU.  Its IMD is worse than SPE.
 
Within my limited radio knowledge, I cannot find the answers for the above.  
Can anybody here please enlighten me or direct me to suitable webpages for my 
own self-study?
 
Thank you in advance as always.

TNX & 73,


Johnny VR2XMC
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Leftover parts?

2011-09-14 Thread Randy Moore
Thanks, Stan. Guess I'll pull the transformer out and put that stuff on the 
bolt. 

Tnx es 73,
Randy, KS4L

On Sep 14, 2011, at 7:51 PM, Stan Gibbs  wrote:

> According to Elecraft, these parts are a very recent addition to the kit and
> their purpose is to add support to the transformer bolt.  In building #401,
> I also discovered these additional parts and sent an email to Elecraft
> support.  They sent me a modified page 32 of the assembly manual that shows
> the placement of the two flat washers, lock washer and nut at the bottom of
> the bolt, flush with the inside bottom rubber disk.  I am including an image
> below; hopefully it will show properly.
> 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n6795115/%24RLNYG9V.png 
> 
> -
> 73, Stan - KR7C
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-Leftover-parts-tp6793858p6795115.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] XG3 and KX3 Development

2011-09-14 Thread Buddy Brannan
Lyle, you really know how to up the excitement on this thing, don't you? I 
mean, we're already on the edge of our collective seats waiting for this thing, 
and we're already drooling like Pavlovian dogs here. 
--
Buddy Brannan, KB5ELV - Erie, PA
Phone: (814) 860-3194 or 888-75-BUDDY



On Sep 14, 2011, at 8:15 PM, Lyle Johnson wrote:

> Just a note that the XG3 has proven to be extremely handy in DSP code 
> development for the KX3.  When I was doing initial DSP code work on the 
> prototype K3, I had to use bulky, cumbersome signal generators and PCs 
> and other transceivers.
> 
> But using only the XG3:
> 
> The ability to set known signal levels helped speed the development of 
> the KX3 S Meter code.
> 
> The ability to send a repeating RTTY beacon helped in porting the K3's 
> FSK (RTTY) decoding algorithms to the KX3.
> 
> The ability to beacon CW helped in porting the K3's CW Decode algorithm 
> to the KX3.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Leftover parts?

2011-09-14 Thread Stan Gibbs
According to Elecraft, these parts are a very recent addition to the kit and
their purpose is to add support to the transformer bolt.  In building #401,
I also discovered these additional parts and sent an email to Elecraft
support.  They sent me a modified page 32 of the assembly manual that shows
the placement of the two flat washers, lock washer and nut at the bottom of
the bolt, flush with the inside bottom rubber disk.  I am including an image
below; hopefully it will show properly.

http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n6795115/%24RLNYG9V.png 

-
73, Stan - KR7C
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-Leftover-parts-tp6793858p6795115.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] XG3 and KX3 Development

2011-09-14 Thread Lyle Johnson
Just a note that the XG3 has proven to be extremely handy in DSP code 
development for the KX3.  When I was doing initial DSP code work on the 
prototype K3, I had to use bulky, cumbersome signal generators and PCs 
and other transceivers.

But using only the XG3:

The ability to set known signal levels helped speed the development of 
the KX3 S Meter code.

The ability to send a repeating RTTY beacon helped in porting the K3's 
FSK (RTTY) decoding algorithms to the KX3.

The ability to beacon CW helped in porting the K3's CW Decode algorithm 
to the KX3.

73,

Lyle KK7P
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[Elecraft] [KPA500] Leftover parts?

2011-09-14 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Randy,
 
Your observation is correct and I also have spare parts.  Similar to you, I did 
read the manual and examine the colour photos of KPA500 but I have no idea 
about these spare parts.  Anyway, the KPA500 is now 100% functional.

TNX & 73,


Johnny VR2XMC

從︰ Randy Moore 
收件人︰ Mike Fatchett W0MU 
副本(CC)︰ "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
傳送日期︰ 2011年09月15日 (週四) 2:59 AM
主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Leftover parts?

I don't think so. Those parts were included in the box with the torroid.  

73,
Randy, KS4L

On Sep 14, 2011, at 1:19 PM, Mike Fatchett W0MU  wrote:

> Sounds like the washer and bolt for the big torroid.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] power supply for KX3 and KXPA100

2011-09-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
Dave,

Use the 13.8 volt supply.  That is close to the "typical" voltage for a 
vehicle battery while being charged by the alternator.  Most amateur 
gear is designed for that voltage - and we often refer to it as a "12 
volt supply" even though it is really 13.8 volts - like we refer to a 12 
volt (6 cell) lead acid battery even though it typically produces 13.2 
volts when fully charged (2.2 volts per cell).

Typical maximum voltages for Elecraft gear go as high as 15 volts, and 
anything up to that level can be used.  The higher voltages result in 
lower transmit IMD, so they are recommended over lower voltages.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/14/2011 8:01 PM, David Burmaster wrote:
> Hi
>
> next year, when i operate my new KX3 and KXPA100 from my home, what power 
> supply will i need?
>
>   115VAC to +13.8VDC  ?
>
>   115VAC to +12VDC  ?
>
>   115VAC to +12VDC and +5VDC ?
>
>   other?
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning Strike - Metal Roof attracts?

2011-09-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
An alternative to unplugging everything -- create a system where 
everything will be at the same potential through a surge event and you 
will have no damage.

Run a #4 (or larger) perimeter wire around your house (and any other 
buildings) with a ground rod at each point where it changes direction, 
connect it with #4 wire to everything metallic in your house structure 
or outbuildings, and then connect it to the 3 or 4  #4 wires radiating 
from each of your towers or masts - those radial wires should have 
ground rods connected at intervals not exceeding twice the length of the 
ground rods.  (8 foot rods spaced every 16 feet, or 4 ft rods spaced at 
8 foot intervals, etc.).  The length of the radial rods should be at 
least as long as the tower or mast is tall.  Oh yes, all these grounds 
must connect to the utility ground rod(s) for the house.  Anything 
metallic in the house (including the roof if metal) should connect to 
this ground system).  Install a "whole house" surge protection device at 
the electrical panel. and put surge suppression devices on incoming TV 
antenna, cable TV/internet lines, telco lines, etc.

In addition, all lines coming into the station should enter through a 
"grounding window" (a copper or aluminum panel) where your coax 
lightning protection devices are mounted, the station power comes 
through this panel too with a surge protection device (do not skimp on 
the quality), all telco and ethernet, rotator cables, remote antenna 
switch wires, (everything entering the station). also come through this 
panel and each conductor is equipped with an MOV or similar protective 
device.  The panel is connected to one or more ground rods (also 
connected to the perimeter wire and the utility ground point) with good 
low impedance ground strap (only gentle turns).  In other words, 
*everything* within the station has its connectivity routed through that 
grounding window, and every piece of equipment in the station and within 
reaching distance of the operating position is tightly bonded to that 
grounding window, and all the ground wires and rods are connected to 
each other.

If you do all those things, you may not have to disconnect everything 
from your transceiver during a lightning storm.  As an added benefit, 
you may eliminate many hum sources in your station's audio system, and 
the locally generated noise may be reduced.

I know all of that is not practical for some existing structures, but 
take the recommendations as intended, and know where your deficiencies 
are, then do what you must to protect your home and equipment.  I have 
some of that system in place or in-plan for the near future, but I still 
do not operate during a lightning event. Each transceiver is connected 
to a dummy load automatically when I remove power from the antenna relay 
system for additional protection.

A bit of planning will provide you with some protection, but whatever 
you install, do not depend on it with your life - there will most always 
be some deficiency, so do take reasonable precautions during an 
electrical storm (stay away from the operating position).

Look at the Safety section of the newer ARRL Handbooks, and review the 
information on station protection at the Polyphaser website for more 
detailed information.  Ron Block has provided some good information 
regarding these practices in QST several years ago, sorry but I cannot 
recall the year, but it was a 3 part article.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/14/2011 7:03 PM, Sam Morgan wrote:
> just curious
> how many things (actual number please)
> do you unplug from both your K3 and the computer/router?
>
> I know my K3 has 14 or more cables to it
> and the radio computer has to have at least that many again
> the firewall computer in the other room has 6
> and the router has 3
> then there is the other computers
> and the hub..
>
> not saying it's not a good idea
> just wondering if I should some how simplify my life?
>
> GB&  73
> K5OAI
> Sam Morgan
>
> On 9/14/2011 5:17 PM, drewko wrote:
>> I think i've posted this before: During lightning season I disconnect
>> everything from my K3 when it is not in use, including headphones and
>> key. Same goes for my PC and router. I leave no cables connected to
>> any of these boxes. It is a bit annoying, especially at the start of
>> the season when I have to get used to the disconnect/reconnect routine
>> all over again. But the alternative is as you have found: the rare
>> close strike probably means everything that is connected will get
>> taken out.
>>
>> We also experienced a lighting storm Sun night, here 150 miles to your
>> east. Maybe it was just the awareness of the dreadful anniversary but
>> I remember thinking that it sure was some unusual sounding thunder:
>> the rumbles were long and building rather than quick and decaying.
>>
>> 73,
>> Drew
>> AF2Z
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, 14 Sep 2011 15:55:31 -0400, Alan wrote:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>> Unusual electrical storms here on top of hill on S

[Elecraft] power supply for KX3 and KXPA100

2011-09-14 Thread David Burmaster
Hi

next year, when i operate my new KX3 and KXPA100 from my home, what power 
supply will i need?

115VAC to +13.8VDC  ?

115VAC to +12VDC  ?

115VAC to +12VDC and +5VDC ?

other?

many thanks, and
73, dave, W1TM


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Computer control a la Agilent?

2011-09-14 Thread Torsten Clay
Depending on what options the K3 has installed internally there is a fair
amount of empty space inside the K3 box. I know mine (100W + XV3 + filters)
seems mostly like an empty box inside :)

It would not be hard for an enterprising person to install a small
single-board microprocessor module inside the K3. This board would
communicate commands via the existing serial interface and provide a
ethernet/web page interface to the outside. You could also provide a digital
audio interface and a IF spectrum display via ethernet this way. No
difference from using an external computer, but it would make a very compact
package.

Tor
N4OGW


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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning Strike - Metal Roof attracts?

2011-09-14 Thread Alan D. Wilcox
All,
Thanks for words on the roof ... kind of late in the game to do much 
about that now. Don't think I want to go the "lightning rod" approach, 
because even a great ground is still likely to raise hob inside the 
house with ground-fault currents.

Had I unplugged the 2 audio cables to the K3, it would probably still be 
alive today. My homebrew keyer was connected, and it isn't working either.

The funny part of it is that my Carolina Windom was knocked down (copper 
at end was melted), but nothing inside the house was connected to the 
coax, and no direct damage. The wall-wart power supplies shorted and 
just one 20A circuit breaker tripped.

Dick,
Yes, the wireless approach will solve some of it. I put in a gigabit LAN 
for the speed, but breaking it up sure makes a lot of sense. The new 
D-Link router has wireless, so that'll work with the MBPro and Mac Mini 
whenever they come back from the shop.

Cheers, Alan

Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40)
570-321-1516
http://WilcoxEngineering.com
http://eBookEditor.net
Williamsport, PA 17701


On 9/14/2011 6:04 PM, Dick Williams wrote:
> Alan,
>
> I would not think a metal roof would be any more of a "lightning rod" than
> any other structure;  from what I remember, sharp pointed objects are good
> "lightning rods".
>
> Sorry to hear about all the damage there; am wondering if you have all your
> computer stuff "hard wired" to the router?  If so, you might consider
> changing to a wireless router;  that might at least prevent damage to your
> whole system if you take another strike.
>
> I believe that I took a strike or good static discharge on one of my towers
> during the last storm;  when I plugged the disconnect from the rotor cable
> to the control box in for my M2 R2800 rotor, there was the sound of an arc
> and the display dimmed.  Upon further investigation, I found one side of
> line going to the DC motor was grounded.  Took the antenna and rotor down
> and after dis-assembly of the rotor, I found there are .01 and .001
> capacitors from the each side of the motor to ground.  One of the .001s was
> blown in half, and the other .001 on the other motor lead had a big black
> burn mark in it (the one that ended up being shorted to ground).
>
> After further investigation for other problems, I found a blocking diode in
> one of my rotor relay control boxes for my Tailtwisters/Ham IVs was shorted.
> Interesting enough, that switch box is not connected at all (other than via
> the common ground) to the tower with the R2800 on it.
>
> Lightning can do strange things!!
>
> Dick K8ZTT
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Alan D. Wilcox
> Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 1:56 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Lightning Strike - Metal Roof attracts?
>
> Hello,
> Unusual electrical storms here on top of hill on Sunday evening (9/11).
> On Saturday, the roofing contractor finished putting half of metal roof
> on house. Received lightning strike to roof (I think), but saw flash
> onto front walkway. Heard explosion right at my wall. Couldn't find
> point of hit though. Roof was finished Monday.
>
> Is that new metal roof a target for the next storm? Never had a
> lightning strike near here before this.
>
> For the curious: Damage was everything connected to my LAN ... Apple
> MBPro, Mac Mini, MacPro I/O, router, hub, soundcard connected to K3 on
> old Windows PC. The K3 ant and power were disconnected (but two audio
> cables from old PC were connected to K3): my K3 is shot and on its way
> to Elecraft. A Comcast TV box was shot, and the tel and Internet all
> needed reset from Comcast. Still finding problems ...
>
> Limping along with old Win-2000 PC.
>
> Cheers, Alan
>
> Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40)
> 570-321-1516
> http://WilcoxEngineering.com
> http://eBookEditor.net
> Williamsport, PA 17701
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Re: [Elecraft] Need help to determine most effective K3 vs KPA500 output

2011-09-14 Thread Fred Atchley
Fred, How does KPA 500 feed ladder line without tuner? 

Hi Mike,

I run coax from inside to the eve of the roof where I attach a 4:1 balun.
>From there it's 300 ohm ladder line. Works FB.

73, Fred, AE6IC

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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning Strike - Metal Roof attracts?

2011-09-14 Thread Sam Morgan
just curious
how many things (actual number please)
do you unplug from both your K3 and the computer/router?

I know my K3 has 14 or more cables to it
and the radio computer has to have at least that many again
the firewall computer in the other room has 6
and the router has 3
then there is the other computers
and the hub..

not saying it's not a good idea
just wondering if I should some how simplify my life?

GB & 73
K5OAI
Sam Morgan

On 9/14/2011 5:17 PM, drewko wrote:
> I think i've posted this before: During lightning season I disconnect
> everything from my K3 when it is not in use, including headphones and
> key. Same goes for my PC and router. I leave no cables connected to
> any of these boxes. It is a bit annoying, especially at the start of
> the season when I have to get used to the disconnect/reconnect routine
> all over again. But the alternative is as you have found: the rare
> close strike probably means everything that is connected will get
> taken out.
>
> We also experienced a lighting storm Sun night, here 150 miles to your
> east. Maybe it was just the awareness of the dreadful anniversary but
> I remember thinking that it sure was some unusual sounding thunder:
> the rumbles were long and building rather than quick and decaying.
>
> 73,
> Drew
> AF2Z
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, 14 Sep 2011 15:55:31 -0400, Alan wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>> Unusual electrical storms here on top of hill on Sunday evening (9/11).
>> On Saturday, the roofing contractor finished putting half of metal roof
>> on house. Received lightning strike to roof (I think), but saw flash
>> onto front walkway. Heard explosion right at my wall. Couldn't find
>> point of hit though. Roof was finished Monday.
>>
>> Is that new metal roof a target for the next storm? Never had a
>> lightning strike near here before this.
>>
>> For the curious: Damage was everything connected to my LAN ... Apple
>> MBPro, Mac Mini, MacPro I/O, router, hub, soundcard connected to K3 on
>> old Windows PC. The K3 ant and power were disconnected (but two audio
>> cables from old PC were connected to K3): my K3 is shot and on its way
>> to Elecraft. A Comcast TV box was shot, and the tel and Internet all
>> needed reset from Comcast. Still finding problems ...
>>
>> Limping along with old Win-2000 PC.
>>
>> Cheers, Alan
>>
>> Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40)
>> 570-321-1516
>> http://WilcoxEngineering.com
>> http://eBookEditor.net
>> Williamsport, PA 17701
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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning Strike - Metal Roof attracts?

2011-09-14 Thread drewko
I think i've posted this before: During lightning season I disconnect
everything from my K3 when it is not in use, including headphones and
key. Same goes for my PC and router. I leave no cables connected to
any of these boxes. It is a bit annoying, especially at the start of
the season when I have to get used to the disconnect/reconnect routine
all over again. But the alternative is as you have found: the rare
close strike probably means everything that is connected will get
taken out.

We also experienced a lighting storm Sun night, here 150 miles to your
east. Maybe it was just the awareness of the dreadful anniversary but
I remember thinking that it sure was some unusual sounding thunder:
the rumbles were long and building rather than quick and decaying.

73,
Drew
AF2Z




On Wed, 14 Sep 2011 15:55:31 -0400, Alan wrote:

>Hello,
>Unusual electrical storms here on top of hill on Sunday evening (9/11). 
>On Saturday, the roofing contractor finished putting half of metal roof 
>on house. Received lightning strike to roof (I think), but saw flash 
>onto front walkway. Heard explosion right at my wall. Couldn't find 
>point of hit though. Roof was finished Monday.
>
>Is that new metal roof a target for the next storm? Never had a 
>lightning strike near here before this.
>
>For the curious: Damage was everything connected to my LAN ... Apple 
>MBPro, Mac Mini, MacPro I/O, router, hub, soundcard connected to K3 on 
>old Windows PC. The K3 ant and power were disconnected (but two audio 
>cables from old PC were connected to K3): my K3 is shot and on its way 
>to Elecraft. A Comcast TV box was shot, and the tel and Internet all 
>needed reset from Comcast. Still finding problems ...
>
>Limping along with old Win-2000 PC.
>
>Cheers, Alan
>
>Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40)
>570-321-1516
>http://WilcoxEngineering.com
>http://eBookEditor.net
>Williamsport, PA 17701
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Need help to determine most effective K3 vs KPA500 output

2011-09-14 Thread Fred Atchley
 

Thanks Don. 

No, it's not a trick question, just tricky for me!  And yes, the feedline is
ladderline. So the bottom line is that the 200 watts w/o a tuner is slightly
better than 100 watts w/tuner using the same feedline and antenna. Every
little bit helps. I live in an area where CC&R antenna limitations force the
use of a stealth wire.

Now if you were tuning that antenna at its feedpoint rather than at
the transmitter, it would make the difference between a matched feedline and
one with SWR - that is the advantage of a remote tuner.  

I can't wait to see the Elecraft KAT500, especially the remote tuner. That
will be a whole new ballgame for me. By not having to use a tuned antenna
design, I can then string a longer random wire to increase the RX capture
area. Life is good.

73, Fred, AE6IC.

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 89, Issue 15

2011-09-14 Thread István Szabó
Alfatronix in UK does make very silent switch mode PS.  This is 
excellent down to 500 kHz w/o any noise.  I use 9A version with the 
K3/10. The 3A version is good only if you do not the second RX. They 
have 20A version for 100W trx as well, but that one a bit expensive.

73, István


On 9/14/2011 11:03 PM, David Dunn wrote:
> Re:] Switch mode PSU
>
> I just read the comments and reply in the message below:
> I have both those PSU, the Sec 1223  is by far the oldest one. It has
> several" birdies"   best described as rather Raucous Crows, which get worse
> as the frequency goes lower. 160m is pretty poor.   I added several devices
> in attempts to quieten same, which was achieved to some degree.  It is
> acceptable on all but 160m,   where it appears in about 3 places across the
> band, (not always the same places)  The Waters and Stanton  Power Mite is
> cheaper device and does much the same  although trips off when the full 20
> amps is drawn quite often. It has similar noises on several bands, which I
> can live with but is about the same as the other on 160. I have not
> attempted to add filters due to the limited success of the other. There is
> little doubt the "proper" transformer PSU's I have are best   but where
> weight is concerned the switch modes units are light and neat for the cost.
> -  Ideal I guess for the VHF folk
>
>73   David G3SCD / VK3DBD
> _
>
> Message-ID:
>
>
> Iain, I use a Power Mite from Walters&  Stanton when not in the shack - is
> very quiet, both physically and RF wise
> 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108, KX3 #???
>
> -___
>
>
> On 10 Sep 2011, at 22:58, Iain Haywood wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Has anyone had any bad experiences using a K3 and a switch mode PSU?.
>> The SEC-1223 looks great aware some can cause problems..
>> They say 'Totally noise free', that's some claim..
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 89, Issue 15

2011-09-14 Thread David Dunn
Re:] Switch mode PSU

I just read the comments and reply in the message below:
I have both those PSU, the Sec 1223  is by far the oldest one. It has
several" birdies"   best described as rather Raucous Crows, which get worse
as the frequency goes lower. 160m is pretty poor.   I added several devices
in attempts to quieten same, which was achieved to some degree.  It is
acceptable on all but 160m,   where it appears in about 3 places across the
band, (not always the same places)  The Waters and Stanton  Power Mite is
cheaper device and does much the same  although trips off when the full 20
amps is drawn quite often. It has similar noises on several bands, which I
can live with but is about the same as the other on 160. I have not
attempted to add filters due to the limited success of the other. There is
little doubt the "proper" transformer PSU's I have are best   but where
weight is concerned the switch modes units are light and neat for the cost.
-  Ideal I guess for the VHF folk

  73   David G3SCD / VK3DBD
_

Message-ID: 


Iain, I use a Power Mite from Walters & Stanton when not in the shack - is
very quiet, both physically and RF wise
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108, KX3 #???

-___


On 10 Sep 2011, at 22:58, Iain Haywood wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Has anyone had any bad experiences using a K3 and a switch mode PSU?.
> The SEC-1223 looks great aware some can cause problems..
> They say 'Totally noise free', that's some claim..
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Re: [Elecraft] Need help to determine most effective K3 vs KPA500 output

2011-09-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
Fred,

That is a 'trick' question - right?  If not, read on - your loss in dB 
does not change.

There will be no difference in your feedline loss - the KAT3 does not 
change the loss on your feedline, it just makes the K3 happier.

Now if you were tuning that antenna at its feedpoint rather than at the 
transmitter, it would make the difference between a matched feedline and 
one with SWR - that is the advantage of a remote tuner.

If you are still interested in loss due to SWR (even if not applicable 
in this case), consult the chart in the Transmission Line chapter of the 
ARRL Handbook (most any edition).
You will find that with an SWR of 3 and a matched line loss of 1 dB the 
additional loss is less than 0.5 dB - if the matched line loss is 4 dB, 
the added loss due to SWR is only 1 dB.  Even at a 10 dB matched line 
loss, the additional loss due to SWR is only about 1.3 dB.  The loss 
does not increase drastically due to SWR, it is the matched line loss 
that is the greater factor - that is why open wire feedlines work so 
well even with very high SWR.

You realize a 3 dB gain by doubling your power,  so the transmitted gain 
will be 3 dB - there is no change in the feedline loss (when expressed 
in dB).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/14/2011 3:58 PM, Fred Atchley wrote:
> I have a K3-100 with KAT3 and a KPA500 w/o a tuner. I use an all-band
> "Mystery" (similar to a G5RV?) wire antenna. Because of the KAT3, the K3
> "sees" a 1:1 antenna match which is good. However, I would like to operate
> up to 200 watts out (low power) for the California QSO party.  The KPA500
> tolerates a 3:1 SWR at 200 watts across the 20 meter band and in the CW
> portion of the 80 meter band on the mystery antenna.
>
> My question is which option is the most effective, 100 watts with 1:1 or 200
> watts with 3:1? Keep in mind that both options use the identical antenna and
> feedline.
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - KPA-500 and the KPAK3AUX Cable - lessons learned

2011-09-14 Thread Andrew Faber
Pete,
  In my experience, a standard extension cable does work, provided all 15 
pins are connected through. Cables marketed as VGA extender cables, however, 
often don't have all 15 pins connected.
  The Elecraft cable doesn't either, but they are a different set.  Using a 
normal extension cable with all pins connected does have the consequence 
that the KPA turns on automatically when the K3 turns on, but then cannot be 
turned off with the front panel switch unless the K3 is turned off.  That 
may or may not be thought of as desirable behavior.
  73, andy ae6y

-Original Message- 
From: N6MQL
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 10:59 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 - KPA-500 and the KPAK3AUX Cable - lessons 
learned

Pete,

If you like, I can make you up some professionally made, Molded Double 
Shielded (braid&  foil) Dual Ferrite cables of almost ANY common (3', 6', 
10' 25' etc) length to suite your shack configuration.  If you've already 
resolved the problem, and are happy with where your equipment is placed, 
than I will be happy to extend (no pun intended) the opportunity to anyone 
else that's interested in buying a longer KPAK3AUX cable (with or without 
the Y adapter for SteppIR Boxes etc).  Feel free to Email me off the 
reflector for more information.  73,
Michael Aretsky
N6MQL
n6...@arrl.net

"I know the instructions for the KPA-500 say not to use a standard SVGA
cable.  The special KPAK3AUX cable is the way to go.  But that cable is too
short for the arrangement I had for my station so I thought I could use a
standard SVGA expansion cable (female connector on one end, male on the
other).
What I didn't fully digest is that the wiring is incompatible!  I thought
the difference was merely the removal of a few pins from a standard SVGA
cable.
Nope, that doesn't work!  So if your station requires a longer cable than
the KPAK3AUX you can either purchase two cables and put them in series or
you can make up your own.  Don't use a standard SVGA cable at all.
In my case, I just rearranged the equipment.

Pete, W1RM"

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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning Strike - Metal Roof attracts?

2011-09-14 Thread John Ragle
As far as "active" targeting goes, a flat, planar roof definitely does 
not "attract" lightning. Points of attraction are high, sharp & pointed, 
conductive objects that help to form the leader (ground to air) strike. 
That said, lightning has a tendency to splay around and involve objects 
near the leader and the multiple return strikes. I suppose heavy 
grounding of your shiny new roof might be wise, as is done in the case 
of high buildings. As I am sure you know, the electric field inside a 
conducting sphere is zero...but a house with a metal roof is only a very 
rough approximation to this ideal case (grin). I think the esthetics of 
rain sounds would normally outweigh the dangers of lightning damage...my 
condolences on your multiple damages (been there, done that myself). I 
don't think the metal roof had much to do with them.

John Ragle -- W1ZI

On 9/14/2011 3:55 PM, Alan D. Wilcox wrote:
> Is that new metal roof a target for the next storm?

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[Elecraft] Need help to determine most effective K3 vs KPA500 output

2011-09-14 Thread Fred Atchley
I have a K3-100 with KAT3 and a KPA500 w/o a tuner. I use an all-band
"Mystery" (similar to a G5RV?) wire antenna. Because of the KAT3, the K3
"sees" a 1:1 antenna match which is good. However, I would like to operate
up to 200 watts out (low power) for the California QSO party.  The KPA500
tolerates a 3:1 SWR at 200 watts across the 20 meter band and in the CW
portion of the 80 meter band on the mystery antenna.

My question is which option is the most effective, 100 watts with 1:1 or 200
watts with 3:1? Keep in mind that both options use the identical antenna and
feedline.

Thanks in advance.

73, Fred, AE6IC

 

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[Elecraft] Lightning Strike - Metal Roof attracts?

2011-09-14 Thread Alan D. Wilcox
Hello,
Unusual electrical storms here on top of hill on Sunday evening (9/11). 
On Saturday, the roofing contractor finished putting half of metal roof 
on house. Received lightning strike to roof (I think), but saw flash 
onto front walkway. Heard explosion right at my wall. Couldn't find 
point of hit though. Roof was finished Monday.

Is that new metal roof a target for the next storm? Never had a 
lightning strike near here before this.

For the curious: Damage was everything connected to my LAN ... Apple 
MBPro, Mac Mini, MacPro I/O, router, hub, soundcard connected to K3 on 
old Windows PC. The K3 ant and power were disconnected (but two audio 
cables from old PC were connected to K3): my K3 is shot and on its way 
to Elecraft. A Comcast TV box was shot, and the tel and Internet all 
needed reset from Comcast. Still finding problems ...

Limping along with old Win-2000 PC.

Cheers, Alan

Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40)
570-321-1516
http://WilcoxEngineering.com
http://eBookEditor.net
Williamsport, PA 17701

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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Leftover parts?

2011-09-14 Thread Randy Moore
I don't think so. Those parts were included in the box with the torroid.   

73,
Randy, KS4L

On Sep 14, 2011, at 1:19 PM, Mike Fatchett W0MU  wrote:

> Sounds like the washer and bolt for the big torroid.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Leftover parts?

2011-09-14 Thread k6rb
Thanks for asking the question. I just finished building #380 and
discovered the same thing. I looked at the transformer instructions,
several times, I checked the inventory list (they were not on there), and
it looked like the transformer did not require the two washers or the nut
- just the bolt, the special washer and the special nut. So, I was
wondering about that, too.

Rob K6RB

> I've been meaning to ask about this since I finished KPA500 #370 a couple
> of weeks ago. In one of the kit's plastic bags there were 2 large washers,
> about 1.5" in diameter with about a 7/16" hole, and a large, maybe 7/16"
> nut. The amp is operating happily without them. What are they for?
>
> 73,
> Randy, KS4L
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>


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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Leftover parts?

2011-09-14 Thread Mike Fatchett W0MU
Sounds like the washer and bolt for the big torroid.

On 9/14/2011 12:16 PM, Randy Moore wrote:
> I've been meaning to ask about this since I finished KPA500 #370 a couple of 
> weeks ago. In one of the kit's plastic bags there were 2 large washers, about 
> 1.5" in diameter with about a 7/16" hole, and a large, maybe 7/16" nut. The 
> amp is operating happily without them. What are they for?
>
> 73,
> Randy, KS4L
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-- 
J6/W0MU November 21 - December 1 2011 CQ WW DX CW

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[Elecraft] [KPA500] Leftover parts?

2011-09-14 Thread Randy Moore
I've been meaning to ask about this since I finished KPA500 #370 a couple of 
weeks ago. In one of the kit's plastic bags there were 2 large washers, about 
1.5" in diameter with about a 7/16" hole, and a large, maybe 7/16" nut. The amp 
is operating happily without them. What are they for?

73,
Randy, KS4L
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[Elecraft] KPA500 - KPA-500 and the KPAK3AUX Cable - lessons learned

2011-09-14 Thread N6MQL
Pete,

If you like, I can make you up some professionally made, Molded Double Shielded 
(braid&  foil) Dual Ferrite cables of almost ANY common (3', 6', 10' 25' etc) 
length to suite your shack configuration.  If you've already resolved the 
problem, and are happy with where your equipment is placed, than I will be 
happy to extend (no pun intended) the opportunity to anyone else that's 
interested in buying a longer KPAK3AUX cable (with or without the Y adapter for 
SteppIR Boxes etc).  Feel free to Email me off the reflector for more 
information.  73,
Michael Aretsky
N6MQL
n6...@arrl.net

"I know the instructions for the KPA-500 say not to use a standard SVGA
cable.  The special KPAK3AUX cable is the way to go.  But that cable is too
short for the arrangement I had for my station so I thought I could use a
standard SVGA expansion cable (female connector on one end, male on the
other).
What I didn't fully digest is that the wiring is incompatible!  I thought
the difference was merely the removal of a few pins from a standard SVGA
cable.
Nope, that doesn't work!  So if your station requires a longer cable than
the KPAK3AUX you can either purchase two cables and put them in series or
you can make up your own.  Don't use a standard SVGA cable at all.
In my case, I just rearranged the equipment.

Pete, W1RM"

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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade suggestions for the K2.

2011-09-14 Thread CRAIG W BEHRENS

I agree … and … perhaps having a higher degree of integration with some 
(modest) amount of functional circuits could add more bang for the buck, help 
keep the cost down.
Perhaps the direct USB I/F port could be a "stamp card," for example.
Also, how big a deal would it be to add 6-meters?

72/73 & DX,
Craig W. Behrens -- NM4T

> Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 15:25:28 +0100
> From: arcticp...@yahoo.no
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Upgrade suggestions for the K2.
> 
> I'm currently in the process of building my first K2, I started last Thursday 
> and have been building for an hour or two each evening after the kids have 
> been put to bed.
> (Small electronic parts and a 1 years old and a 3 year old doesn't mix well 
> together, hi, hi.)
> Now my building has come to an halt because the RF-board P1 connector was 
> missing from the bag, (No, it have not been eaten by my daughters, hi, hi!) 
> and while waiting for the part I have been looking into the options available 
> for the K2.
> I'm going to equip my K2 for QRP, so I will be getting the internal ATU, 
> battery, RS-232, DSP,160 m and 60 m etc...
> The options I ordered with the kit is the SSB board and the mic.
> When looking at the options and the basic K2 I think that there are room for 
> more options, these are my suggeistions:
>  
> USB computer interface:
> A computer with a COM-port is difficult to get nowadays, so most of us rely 
> on a RS-232-to-USB converter, I think that such a device can be built right 
> into the K2.
> Maybe even with an onboard USB soundcard for digimodes. The USB chips is 
> probably available only as SMD's, but they can be presoldered lik it is on 
> the current DSP.
>  
> Battery with charger controller:
> I think that a LiIon, LiPo or A123 battery with a charger controller built 
> right into the K2 wil enhance portability because of lighter weight and 
> longer endurance.
>  
> IF DSP:
> I think that it is possible to design an IF DSP that can go right into the K2 
> IF. The biggest problem is if it's feasable to control the IF-DSP with the 
> current Front Panel.
>  
> I'm sure that the members on this list have more suggestions for a "mid-life 
> upgrade" to the K2, come on, let me hear them, and also please tell what you 
> guys think of my ideas?
>  
> 
> Best regards,
> Martin Storli 
> LA8OKA
> Oslo, Norway 
>  
> ARCTICPEAK's Radio pages! 
> http://www.arcticpeak.com/radio.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] ALC

2011-09-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
Tom,

The K3 EXT ALC input is on the ACC connector at pin 15 - see the manual 
page 18 for the ACC connector.
The "how to use" is in page 27.

It is likely that you do not need to use the ALC from the amp - the amp 
ALC should not be used to control the power output from the K3, but if 
your amp uses ALC to reduce power from the exciter because of an amp 
fault, that is a valid use of the ALC line.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/14/2011 10:30 AM, Tom wrote:
> Where do I connect the ALC from the K-3 to my amp.  I' m sure it must be in 
> the manual, but can't seem to find it.
> Tom
>
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[Elecraft] ALC

2011-09-14 Thread Tom

Where do I connect the ALC from the K-3 to my amp.  I' m sure it must be in the 
manual, but can't seem to find it.
Tom

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[Elecraft] Upgrade suggestions for the K2.

2011-09-14 Thread Martin Storli - LA8OKA
I'm currently in the process of building my first K2, I started last Thursday 
and have been building for an hour or two each evening after the kids have been 
put to bed.
(Small electronic parts and a 1 years old and a 3 year old doesn't mix well 
together, hi, hi.)
Now my building has come to an halt because the RF-board P1 connector was 
missing from the bag, (No, it have not been eaten by my daughters, hi, hi!) and 
while waiting for the part I have been looking into the options available for 
the K2.
I'm going to equip my K2 for QRP, so I will be getting the internal ATU, 
battery, RS-232, DSP,160 m and 60 m etc...
The options I ordered with the kit is the SSB board and the mic.
When looking at the options and the basic K2 I think that there are room for 
more options, these are my suggeistions:
 
USB computer interface:
A computer with a COM-port is difficult to get nowadays, so most of us rely on 
a RS-232-to-USB converter, I think that such a device can be built right into 
the K2.
Maybe even with an onboard USB soundcard for digimodes. The USB chips is 
probably available only as SMD's, but they can be presoldered lik it is on the 
current DSP.
 
Battery with charger controller:
I think that a LiIon, LiPo or A123 battery with a charger controller built 
right into the K2 wil enhance portability because of lighter weight and longer 
endurance.
 
IF DSP:
I think that it is possible to design an IF DSP that can go right into the K2 
IF. The biggest problem is if it's feasable to control the IF-DSP with the 
current Front Panel.
 
I'm sure that the members on this list have more suggestions for a "mid-life 
upgrade" to the K2, come on, let me hear them, and also please tell what you 
guys think of my ideas?
 

Best regards,
Martin Storli 
LA8OKA
Oslo, Norway 
 
ARCTICPEAK's Radio pages! 
http://www.arcticpeak.com/radio.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] remote control & HRD

2011-09-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
Kieth,

It would be prudent to put in a very good lightning protection system at 
the remote station.  If done properly, operating during a lightning 
storm is possible, but that degree of protection takes a lot of  effort 
and expense.  Few ham installations have that kind of protection, but 
broadcast stations do - they have to keep working despite lightning 
strikes.  Done correctly, everything is raised to the same potential and 
no damage occurs.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/14/2011 9:20 AM, Keith-K5ENS wrote:
> I can't answer that but would like to add.  How is lightning protection
> handled for a remote station?  You can't unplug things from another
> location?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] remote control & HRD

2011-09-14 Thread Keith-K5ENS
I can't answer that but would like to add.  How is lightning protection
handled for a remote station?  You can't unplug things from another
location?

Keith, XF1/K5ENS

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-14 Thread David Lankshear
Just a tail end to what was said about Edsyn.  They charge a monumental sum
for shipping, BUT they send orders in pre-packs by the most economical
method and then they refund the difference back onto your card.  They say
it's due to a very old website

 

Sorry I didn't mention it before and I hope no-one had a coronary when they
saw the cost come up.

 

73  Dave  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] - Data mode TX problem from VK7JB - solved!

2011-09-14 Thread VK7JB
Hi All,

Thanks for your suggestions and for the interesting discussion.  To close
the loop, here's some information about the solution, which I discovered by
accident:

More careful sleuthing showed that the issue was in the computer audio chain
(as I suspected) and not with the K3.  The artefact was present on the
soundcard audio output.   I tried another, older, laptop running XP, and
with the same USB Soundcard dongle connected and all other parameters
unchanged, and this time the problem was absent.  

I then went back to the original laptop (running Win 7) and ran the latency
checker application.  All green bars, which didn't help me much.  I'm not
sure why, but I then decided to disable the computer's internal sound card
through device manager.  I had muted the mic input of the internal sound
card earlier, but hadn't disabled it.  Anyway, after that, the problem is
fixed.  

So, using the USB soundcard dongle with the internal soundcard disabled, the
pops and clicks are gone.
I should explain that I need to use the dongle because this computer's own
soundcard has no line or mic in jack - it has an inbuilt mic, but no way of
routing an external audio source to the internal soundcard. 

Thanks again to everyone for your suggestions, on and off the list.

73,

John
VK7JB

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