Re: [Elecraft] K3 #6150

2012-01-08 Thread David Windisch
Shucks, Tim, did any of the rest of the radio work?
Brgds,
Dave, N3HE

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #6150

2012-01-08 Thread Mike K2MK
Hi Tim,

I understand your disappointment. There is an inherent flaw with kits
familiar to those of us that built Heathkits. When a shipment of 1000 or
more knobs arrives from the knob manufacturer the kit manufacturer sample
checks the lot. So some defective knobs may slip through. (The previous
cracked knob flaw would pass inspection because the cracking happened over
time). 

A factory built K3 would not have this problem since the knobs would be
rejected by the assembler.

But the good news is now you can enjoy perhaps the best reason to buy
Elecraft. Send an e-mail to Elecraft support and you'll get a really fast
response and you'll have new knobs in a few days.

73,
Mike K2MK


NZ8J wrote
 
 K3/100 kit sn 6150 arrived yesterday just in time for the weekend.  Took
 my time today and it went together in about 8 hours, with no significant
 issues. Everything worked according to the manual as I expected. There
 is one issue that is somewhat irritating though.  The AF and RF knobs
 cannot be nested as they should be to fit properly. In order to be
 able to turn the AF gain or RF gain without having them catch on the
 larger respective SUB knobs they have to be pulled out so they won't
 catch. They are visibly out of alignment.
 
 A quick search of the archives revealed a rather long 2 /1/2 year old
 thread about some defective knobs.  The gist of the thread was not so
 much about them cracking or breaking as some had experienced, it was
 because they were off center and would not allow for a proper
 installation. Apparently whatever the issue was, it is still there 2 1/2
 years later as the one I received yesterday has the same problem.  
 
 It's hard to understand how a product can be so well designed and the
 manufacturing tolerances so close (take the cabinet parts and pieces as
 one example) but yet something as seemingly simple as a plastic knob
 some 2 1/2 years after an in-depth discussion that Elecraft was part of
 are still being manufactured and delivered out of tolerance. I don't
 have a problem with the intended look or feel of the knobs, I think they
 are fine, just the fact they turn out so badly in many cases and detract
 from the end product.
 
 I was having a lot of fun putting this together today until I got to the
 part where I installed the knobs, big disappointment!
 
 I have a set of the Mouser  machined aluminum knobs and although they
 are smooth and have a nice feel they just don't match the rest of the
 knobs to my liking, I wonder if anyone has come up with an alternative
 to the Mouser knobs?
 
 Tim
 NZ8J
 
 K3 - 6150
 P3- 1775
 KPA500 - 618
 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #6150

2012-01-08 Thread Brian Maynard
Tim,

The knobs are really easy to over tighten, which puts them out of round. I
had the same problem, and same response as you (K3 #4974). I did get a
replacement set of knobs, and found that they too were easy to deform. Just
tighten them the minimum needed to hold them in place - they will work fine.
And yes, you do need to separate them just slightly to prevent friction
binding.

Otherwise, this is the best radio I have ever owned. Get past this gripe and
I am sure you will agree!

Brian

-
Brian,  op K1NW
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[Elecraft] Elecraft AF-1 Audio Filter For Salel

2012-01-08 Thread Robert Brock
I have a new in the unopened package an Elecraft AF-1 audio filter kit. 
Priced at $40 CONUS only.  Please contact me off line at k9os...@gmail.com.

73, Bob - K9OSC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #6150

2012-01-08 Thread KQ8M
I just mentioned that on the reflector a week or so ago and a large number
of people said the same thing; contact Elecraft and let them know and you
will get new knobs in a few days. I had the same problem as you with the K3
I built a few months ago and just kind of lived with it till I was told to
get new ones.

Problem solved.

73's

Tim Herrick, KQ8M
North Coast Contesters
k...@kq8m.com

K3 Serial #5934




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of NZ8J
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 1:04 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 #6150


K3/100 kit sn 6150 arrived yesterday just in time for the weekend.  Took
my time today and it went together in about 8 hours, with no significant
issues. Everything worked according to the manual as I expected. There
is one issue that is somewhat irritating though.  The AF and RF knobs
cannot be nested as they should be to fit properly. In order to be
able to turn the AF gain or RF gain without having them catch on the
larger respective SUB knobs they have to be pulled out so they won't
catch. They are visibly out of alignment.

A quick search of the archives revealed a rather long 2 /1/2 year old
thread about some defective knobs.  The gist of the thread was not so
much about them cracking or breaking as some had experienced, it was
because they were off center and would not allow for a proper
installation. Apparently whatever the issue was, it is still there 2 1/2
years later as the one I received yesterday has the same problem.  

It's hard to understand how a product can be so well designed and the
manufacturing tolerances so close (take the cabinet parts and pieces as
one example) but yet something as seemingly simple as a plastic knob
some 2 1/2 years after an in-depth discussion that Elecraft was part of
are still being manufactured and delivered out of tolerance. I don't
have a problem with the intended look or feel of the knobs, I think they
are fine, just the fact they turn out so badly in many cases and detract
from the end product.

I was having a lot of fun putting this together today until I got to the
part where I installed the knobs, big disappointment!

I have a set of the Mouser  machined aluminum knobs and although they
are smooth and have a nice feel they just don't match the rest of the
knobs to my liking, I wonder if anyone has come up with an alternative
to the Mouser knobs?

Tim
NZ8J

K3 - 6150
P3- 1775
KPA500 - 618







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[Elecraft] No clock on my K3

2012-01-08 Thread TG9AJR Juan Munoz
Suddenly on my K3 display there is no clock only shows 0.00 or the second 
option is the VFO B, currently using Data AFSK for RTTY, what could be wrong ?

Thanks.

Juan
TG9AJR
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3-2M extended receive?

2012-01-08 Thread Steve KC8QVO
Though I respect your opinion, Mike, and everyone else that shares the same
sentiment, I must entirely disagree with your point about using an HT to
supplement the KX3 vs. the multi-mode capability on 2m. 

My basis for my comments is backpacking. I ask those that are consider the
multi-mode operability of the KX3 as being the sole reason wideband receive
is not feasible and that an HT must be required to supplement that which the
KX3 does not cover if you have ever gone backpacking. That doesn't mean a
short day hike or walking a mile to a camp site for the weekend, I am
talking about packing everything you need for 2 or more days covering 20+
miles. I still consider these trips short or small in the grand scheme
of backpacking, but the point is that every pound you add is that much
more weight you have to carry with you the whole time. Therefore by packing
lighter and smaller the enjoyment of your adventure goes up and the effort,
wear, and tear on ones body goes down. Have you experienced that and the
different challenges associated with packing for treks like that? Have you
felt the affects on your body after a trip like that? 

An example I will give you is on past trips I have taken my FT-857D on 3 day
backpacking trips covering in the 18-24 mile range through the Appalachian
mountains. The set up I have for the FT-857D complete is right around 15lbs.
That's a LOT of weight. The reason it weighs what it does is mostly the rig
and battery. Even though now that I have a K2 I can get by with less weight
(lighter rig, lighter battery) I would have to supplement that with adding
an HT for VHF/UHF. The FT-857D covers everything I need in one box - its a
single rig solution and that out weighs the added weight.

Starting with a base weight of 40lbs (my backpacking gear, food) adding
15lbs of radio stuff brings me up to 55lbs. Thats a very typical pack weight
for me. Try it some time. Find a trail in the mountains that's a mile long
and throw a 55lb backpack on to hike it. That will give you an idea of what
its like. Now cover ~20 miles over a 3 day period. 

Adding extra gear to a backpack is probably the number one rule to avoid.
Making due with less and using other items for multiple purposes, even
getting creative and using items for purposes they were never designed for
all helps to trim the overall pack weight. Adding an HT at a couple lbs is
bad enough by itself, adding that weight on top of, say, 4-5lbs (KX3,
batteries, antenna, key, mic, just a rough guess) really starts to add up.
That is still lbs difference than my FT-857D set up. 

My last trip to TN I left my 857 behind and just took my HT. I couldn't
handle the added weight - I was trying to stay well under 50lbs, but I had
wet/cold weather gear with me and there was no way I could take another
15lbs. I ended up right about 50lbs as it was. 

I am not arguing the design of the KX3, just trying to paint a picture for
those that may not have the perspective I do. The performance of the radio
is one thing - and I agree that it is important. Operating from a mountain
side in the wilderness is a huge world of difference than your shack desk,
the back yard, or even the box you pack to take with you to the beach or
your sisters house for Christmas. If there is a challenging environment to
operate a rig from, aside from an RF environment (contesting, field day,
etc) it would have to be in the weight/portability/performance class in that
the smaller/lighter packages lend themselves to going where most radios will
never go. The practicality of the extra band coverage cannot be down-played
in those circumstances. I personally couldn't care less about the public
service and MARS frequencies above 2m, its the NOAA weather channels because
that is a very good resource on adventures. If that is something that could
be added in another module, even, that would be neat. Its the one rig
solution that is important to me. As it is the rig will fill a unique niche
in my radio arsenal - which is why I ordered one - a CW AND SSB rig on HF in
a compact, light, and well thought-out package. 

Steve, KC8QVO

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3-2M extended receive?

2012-01-08 Thread Bruce Beford
Hi, Steve. thanks for offering up your perspective on the special case of
multiday backpack excursions. Agreed that when backpack camping every ounce
counts. I could not imagine carrying something like 15lbs of radio gear on
such an excursion, as you did with the FT-857.

However, if all you really are looking for is NOAA coverage for those times
when you need to know immediately of impending danger- Wouldn't a small
handheld NOAA alert radio for that single purpose make more sense? Such as
this one, for instance:

http://www.weatherradiostore.com/HH54VP2-Midland-Hand-Held-Weather-Radio-wit
h-S.A.M.E.data

This single-use handheld could be left on for alerts while actually moving,
certainly weighs less than 8 ounces. Strapped to the outside of your pack,
this would provide continuous alert capability while hiking (which the KX3
could not easily do while in motion, buried in your pack). 

Just a thought...

73,
Bruce, N1RX


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 interface with steppIR and computer

2012-01-08 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


John,

I am sending you the schematic for SteppIR's Y cable.  Pay attention as
pin 5 is not connected between the SteppIR and rig.  The jumper on the
SteppIR end is between 7 and 9 (not 7 and 8).

You can not parallel pin 3 (Transmit Data) on two RS-232 devices.
the device that is not sending data will load the transmit line
so that no data can be sent.  Doing a full parallel connection
requires a special diode matrix connection with external pull-up
(or pull down - can't remember without tracking down the old device)
resistors, etc.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 1/7/2012 10:08 AM, k...@att.net wrote:

I built my serial cable for the K2 to talk to my SteppIR controller

from the Elecraft manual. Works just fine. It also talks to my computer
for HRD, N1MM etc. So I decided to work on having the two interfaces
work together like they did with my IC 746 Pro. However, building a Y
cable doesn't seem to be working out the way I want! Each device works
fine when I have it plugged into the Y cable by itself but when I plug
in both at the same time, One or the other will freeze up. I am simply
using pins 2, 3 and 5 from the K2 serial port wired straight through to
the female DB 9s at the device end and have 7 and 8 jumpered at the
external device end. What am I doing wrong?


My KPA500 arrives on Monday so I'd like to get this resolved before my next 
project!

John KE4D
K2 #7231

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[Elecraft] K-3 Output Power Macro for multiple bands

2012-01-08 Thread Art Suberbielle
Hello all,


Trying to write a Macro to set the Power to 100w when not using my amp. Macro 1 
is PC100 and works fine on the band the rig is set on when applied. How can I 
write a Macro to change the power settings on several bands at the same time? 
For example, 40, 80, and 160.


Thanks for any help.


73,


Art KZ5D
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[Elecraft] Wonderful chat on 18.141.00 with two seven year olds first contact

2012-01-08 Thread Phil Townsend


On Jan 2, 2012, at 8:02 AM, Allan Glasdam wrote:

Hi all and happy new year
When I tune my K2/10 on 10 mc I get the message: 2.04r 1.09.
Voltage is 13,6 0.35
Any ideas and solutions would be appriciated.
Allan, OZ8A
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Re: [Elecraft] Wonderful chat on 18.141.00 with two seven year olds first contact

2012-01-08 Thread Phil Townsend
The young op is asking what is your faviort color...

Sweet...
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Re: [Elecraft] No clock on my K3

2012-01-08 Thread Pierfrancesco Caci
 TG9AJR == TG9AJR Juan Munoz tg9...@gmail.com writes:


TG9AJR Suddenly on my K3 display there is no clock only shows 0.00
TG9AJR or the second option is the VFO B, currently using Data AFSK
TG9AJR for RTTY, what could be wrong ?

Does it change if you turn the vfo B knob? The various things that can
be shown instead of the clock are explained on page 36 of the manual.


-- 
Pierfrancesco Caci, ik5pvx
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #6150

2012-01-08 Thread David Gilbert

I certainly agree with your overall sentiment.   It beats me why 
Elecraft would continue to use a parts vendor that produces knobs with 
such horrible quality control.   Three years is a ridiculous amount of 
time for any supplier to get its act together.

My AF/RF knobs had the cracking problem, and while Elecraft did quickly 
replace them I bought the machined aluminum knobs from Mouser anyway and 
I love them.  They have a very solid feel to them and I actually like 
the fact that they stick out.  They don't stick out any more than the 
main VFO knob, and since I am right handed they are easier for my hand 
to quickly access past the other four small knobs.

73,
Dave   AB7E





 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of NZ8J
 Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 1:04 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 #6150


 K3/100 kit sn 6150 arrived yesterday just in time for the weekend.  Took
 my time today and it went together in about 8 hours, with no significant
 issues. Everything worked according to the manual as I expected. There
 is one issue that is somewhat irritating though.  The AF and RF knobs
 cannot be nested as they should be to fit properly. In order to be
 able to turn the AF gain or RF gain without having them catch on the
 larger respective SUB knobs they have to be pulled out so they won't
 catch. They are visibly out of alignment.

 A quick search of the archives revealed a rather long 2 /1/2 year old
 thread about some defective knobs.  The gist of the thread was not so
 much about them cracking or breaking as some had experienced, it was
 because they were off center and would not allow for a proper
 installation. Apparently whatever the issue was, it is still there 2 1/2
 years later as the one I received yesterday has the same problem.

 It's hard to understand how a product can be so well designed and the
 manufacturing tolerances so close (take the cabinet parts and pieces as
 one example) but yet something as seemingly simple as a plastic knob
 some 2 1/2 years after an in-depth discussion that Elecraft was part of
 are still being manufactured and delivered out of tolerance. I don't
 have a problem with the intended look or feel of the knobs, I think they
 are fine, just the fact they turn out so badly in many cases and detract
 from the end product.

 I was having a lot of fun putting this together today until I got to the
 part where I installed the knobs, big disappointment!

 I have a set of the Mouser  machined aluminum knobs and although they
 are smooth and have a nice feel they just don't match the rest of the
 knobs to my liking, I wonder if anyone has come up with an alternative
 to the Mouser knobs?

 Tim
 NZ8J

 K3 - 6150
 P3- 1775
 KPA500 - 618




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #6150

2012-01-08 Thread Phil LaMarche
I have the weighted black knobs on my K3 and love them.  So nice to turn.

Philip LaMarche

 
727-944-3226
727-510-5038 Cell 
 www.w9dvm.com
K3 # 1605
KPA500 # 029
P3 #1480

 CCA 98-00827
CRA 1701
W9DVM
 


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Gilbert
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 2:17 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 #6150


I certainly agree with your overall sentiment.   It beats me why 
Elecraft would continue to use a parts vendor that produces knobs with 
such horrible quality control.   Three years is a ridiculous amount of 
time for any supplier to get its act together.

My AF/RF knobs had the cracking problem, and while Elecraft did quickly
replace them I bought the machined aluminum knobs from Mouser anyway and I
love them.  They have a very solid feel to them and I actually like the fact
that they stick out.  They don't stick out any more than the main VFO knob,
and since I am right handed they are easier for my hand to quickly access
past the other four small knobs.

73,
Dave   AB7E





 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of NZ8J
 Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 1:04 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 #6150


 K3/100 kit sn 6150 arrived yesterday just in time for the weekend.  
 Took my time today and it went together in about 8 hours, with no 
 significant issues. Everything worked according to the manual as I 
 expected. There is one issue that is somewhat irritating though.  The 
 AF and RF knobs cannot be nested as they should be to fit properly. 
 In order to be able to turn the AF gain or RF gain without having them 
 catch on the larger respective SUB knobs they have to be pulled out so 
 they won't catch. They are visibly out of alignment.

 A quick search of the archives revealed a rather long 2 /1/2 year old 
 thread about some defective knobs.  The gist of the thread was not so 
 much about them cracking or breaking as some had experienced, it was 
 because they were off center and would not allow for a proper 
 installation. Apparently whatever the issue was, it is still there 2 
 1/2 years later as the one I received yesterday has the same problem.

 It's hard to understand how a product can be so well designed and the 
 manufacturing tolerances so close (take the cabinet parts and pieces 
 as one example) but yet something as seemingly simple as a plastic 
 knob some 2 1/2 years after an in-depth discussion that Elecraft was 
 part of are still being manufactured and delivered out of tolerance. I 
 don't have a problem with the intended look or feel of the knobs, I 
 think they are fine, just the fact they turn out so badly in many 
 cases and detract from the end product.

 I was having a lot of fun putting this together today until I got to 
 the part where I installed the knobs, big disappointment!

 I have a set of the Mouser  machined aluminum knobs and although they 
 are smooth and have a nice feel they just don't match the rest of the 
 knobs to my liking, I wonder if anyone has come up with an alternative 
 to the Mouser knobs?

 Tim
 NZ8J

 K3 - 6150
 P3- 1775
 KPA500 - 618




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3-2M extended receive?

2012-01-08 Thread Mike Morrow
Steve wrote:

 My basis for my comments is backpacking. I ask those that are consider the
 multi-mode operability of the KX3 as being the sole reason wideband receive
 is not feasible and that an HT must be required to supplement that which the
 KX3 does not cover if you have ever gone backpacking. That doesn't mean a
 short day hike or walking a mile to a camp site for the weekend, I am
 talking about packing everything you need for 2 or more days covering 20+
 miles.

Portable operation out in the boonies has been more than 95 percent of my HF
ham operation since completing military service 33 years ago.  (I wasn't able
to do much hamming in the service, even though I held a license long before.)

My backpacking lineup since 2000 has been the K1 for HF, and some small HT
for VHF/UHF coverage.  I've used the VX-3R since 2007.  The HT is set to cover
FRS, local law enforcement in the area, game warden frequencies, local park
and/or forest service frequencies, aircraft unicom, plus the odd ham repeater
and simplex frequency.  I research and make use of all available frequency
data for the region I'm in.  It can be useful.  Power for the K1 is a 4.5 A h
SLA battery, plus a reserve 10-AA cell pack.  I also always carry a small AM-FM
radio.

 Have you experienced that and the different challenges associated with
 packing for treks like that? Have you felt the affects on your body after
 a trip like that?

Er...yes...many time in the last third of a century.  If you want a real 
workout,
come to the Sipsey Wilderness in north Alabama since several EF4 and 5 tornadoes
tore through it on 27 April 2011!

 ...every pound you add is that much more weight you have to carry with you
 the whole time.

True, and that's why what you say later indicates that you are making life hard 
on
yourself, without cause, when you state:

 ...on past trips I have taken my FT-857D on 3 day backpacking trips covering
 in the 18-24 mile range through the Appalachian mountains. The set up I have
 for the FT-857D complete is right around 15 lbs.  That's a LOT of weight.

You're absolutely correct.  That's an *insane* amount of weight for even an
overnight trip.  Your equipment choice would be among the very last I would
choose.  Let's look at some choices, popular or otherwise:

Radio  Weight (lbs)  Volume (in^3)   Receiver Current (amps)   
FT-857D4.7   113 0.8
FT-817ND   2.652 0.35
K1 1.564 0.08
KX10.719 0.04
KX3 (prelim)   1.543 0.15
 
IMHO, the FT-817 and FT-857 are totally inappropriate for serious backpacking
due to unit weight, the outrageous current consumption just on receive, and
most significantly, the size of the power source (unless you've got a couple
of furry helpers such as WG0AT has.)

BTW, the VHF coverage of the 817ND does not reach the NOAA channels, and
the VHF coverage of the 857D does not cover the frequencies most often used
in the national parks, forests, rivers, etc.

 Therefore by packing lighter and smaller the enjoyment of your adventure
 goes up and the effort, wear, and tear on ones body goes down.

One might reasonably suggest, based on the particulars in the above table,
that selecting a rig appropriate for backpacking might be helpful.

 The FT-857D covers everything I need in one box - its a single rig solution
 and that out weighs the added weight.

The 857D is **monstrously** heavy for backpacking!  Almost five pounds!  And
stunningly energy inefficient.  It's a mobile rig.  Then there's the battery.
I can't imagine carrying such a thing plus its battery on any sort of portable
trip.  I really really can not.  I haven't done anything close to that since
I carried the AN/PRC-25 FM backpack radio in service.

 That will give you an idea of what its like.

Thanks.

 Adding extra gear to a backpack is probably the number one rule to avoid.

Number one rule is select the appropriate equipment!

 Adding an HT at a couple lbs is bad enough by itself,

Do you know how large a wide-range HT like the VX-3R is?  With spare battery
pack it's five ounces, and less than 6 cubic inches in volume.  You're worried
about that???  Leave out one granola bar. :-)

 I personally couldn't care less about the public service and MARS frequencies
 above 2m, its the NOAA weather channels...

But there are hams who have legitimate need of operating (transmitting) outside
the ham bands as part of a service function.  To cover completely all US service
MARS VHF-FM frequencies, the KX3 two-meter module would need to function between
142 and 150 MHz.  That's an expanded capability (if any is to be realized) with
far more potential public service value than providing NOAA weather channel
coverage.

 ...the rig will fill a unique niche...a CW AND SSB rig on HF in a compact,
 light, and well thought-out package.

Well, it'll be one-third 

Re: [Elecraft] KX3-2M extended receive?

2012-01-08 Thread Edward R. Cole
I know where Steve is coming from with his reply, though you would 
need to step back in time a few decades.  In the 1970's I was an 
inveterate backpacker, going nearly every weekend into the Sierra's 
where you park your car at 9,000 feet altitude and climb from there 
often over 12,000 foot passes.  My typical backpack included 4-season 
expedition sleeping bag and similar level 2-person tent.  This 
required an extension rack on the backpack which typ weighed 
60-lbs.  My weekend treks were typically 16-20 miles and this is not 
level walking, but often onto snow covered passes (in July).  The 
ultimate hike was when I took the Wonderland Trail that 
circum-navigates a 113-mi trail circling Mt. Rainier.  My hiking 
partner and I preshipped two re-supply caches to accomplish this.  We 
crossed two glaciers on that trek.

A good friend of mine, KL3BD, made three ascents of Mt. McKinely 
(near 21,000 feet) carrying a 2m-HT.  I talked to him a couple times 
on his climb.  I can envision a KX3 going on such a trip some day.

The point Steve is making is every extra ounce of weight is something 
that you must carry on your back.  You want most of it to be fuel 
(i.e. food and not ballast).  Taking two radios, each with a battery, 
is excessive on such trips.  I can't even comprehend taking a 15-lb radio!

OK that being said, let me address the technical issue.  The KX3 is a 
direct conversion SDR that tunes to 54-MHz.  There may be a technical 
upper limit on what this SDR can cover in frequency.  Note the 
144-148 is added via a transverter (meaning it is hetrodyned down to 
50-54).  I would suspect to cover 162.55 MHz would require a separate 
Rx converter, so it may be easier to consider a separate radio for 
that.  Asking for the 2m transverter to include the wx band would 
probably involve major redesign:  two-freq LO plus RF circuitry that 
would be tuned to 162-163 MHz.

There becomes a technical/physical limit to what can be added in 
functionality in one radio.  Providing wideband circuits to provide 
decent Rx sensitivity over 144-163 MHz is problematic to obtaining 
good performance on the primary objective of the 2m band.  An example 
is my K3 which tunes 28-32 MHz for receiving 144-148 but does not 
transmit well above 146-MHz.  Elecraft solved that for its own line 
of transverters by providing two LO freqs. to use 28-30 MHz.  The 
fact they decided to use the 6m band as IF for 2m on the KX3 is proof 
they are thinking how to improve.  Seriously, I would be surprised if 
the wx-band can be added (though I understand the wish for that).

73, Ed - KL7UW
PS:  Hiking now consist of hauling luggage thru airport terminals!
--

Message: 47
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 07:32:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve KC8QVO kc8...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3-2M extended receive?
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 1326036765596-7164932.p...@n2.nabble.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Though I respect your opinion, Mike, and everyone else that shares the same
sentiment, I must entirely disagree with your point about using an HT to
supplement the KX3 vs. the multi-mode capability on 2m.

My basis for my comments is backpacking. I ask those that are consider the
multi-mode operability of the KX3 as being the sole reason wideband receive
is not feasible and that an HT must be required to supplement that which the
KX3 does not cover if you have ever gone backpacking. That doesn't mean a
short day hike or walking a mile to a camp site for the weekend, I am
talking about packing everything you need for 2 or more days covering 20+
miles.
snipped the remainder for brevity.


73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com
Coming Soon - Kits made by KL7UW
==
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #6150

2012-01-08 Thread Buck k4ia
How about a Mouser part # for those knobs?

Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101

On 1/8/2012 2:17 PM, David Gilbert wrote:

 I certainly agree with your overall sentiment.   It beats me why
 Elecraft would continue to use a parts vendor that produces knobs with
 such horrible quality control.   Three years is a ridiculous amount of
 time for any supplier to get its act together.

 My AF/RF knobs had the cracking problem, and while Elecraft did quickly
 replace them I bought the machined aluminum knobs from Mouser anyway and
 I love them.  They have a very solid feel to them and I actually like
 the fact that they stick out.  They don't stick out any more than the
 main VFO knob, and since I am right handed they are easier for my hand
 to quickly access past the other four small knobs.

 73,
 Dave   AB7E





 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of NZ8J
 Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 1:04 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 #6150


 K3/100 kit sn 6150 arrived yesterday just in time for the weekend.  Took
 my time today and it went together in about 8 hours, with no significant
 issues. Everything worked according to the manual as I expected. There
 is one issue that is somewhat irritating though.  The AF and RF knobs
 cannot be nested as they should be to fit properly. In order to be
 able to turn the AF gain or RF gain without having them catch on the
 larger respective SUB knobs they have to be pulled out so they won't
 catch. They are visibly out of alignment.

 A quick search of the archives revealed a rather long 2 /1/2 year old
 thread about some defective knobs.  The gist of the thread was not so
 much about them cracking or breaking as some had experienced, it was
 because they were off center and would not allow for a proper
 installation. Apparently whatever the issue was, it is still there 2 1/2
 years later as the one I received yesterday has the same problem.

 It's hard to understand how a product can be so well designed and the
 manufacturing tolerances so close (take the cabinet parts and pieces as
 one example) but yet something as seemingly simple as a plastic knob
 some 2 1/2 years after an in-depth discussion that Elecraft was part of
 are still being manufactured and delivered out of tolerance. I don't
 have a problem with the intended look or feel of the knobs, I think they
 are fine, just the fact they turn out so badly in many cases and detract
 from the end product.

 I was having a lot of fun putting this together today until I got to the
 part where I installed the knobs, big disappointment!

 I have a set of the Mouser  machined aluminum knobs and although they
 are smooth and have a nice feel they just don't match the rest of the
 knobs to my liking, I wonder if anyone has come up with an alternative
 to the Mouser knobs?

 Tim
 NZ8J

 K3 - 6150
 P3- 1775
 KPA500 - 618




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Re: [Elecraft] K-3 Output Power Macro for multiple bands

2012-01-08 Thread Dick Dievendorff
Power can be a per band setting or an overall setting, depending on a config 
menu choice. Sounds like you might have it set per band and might want the 
other choice. You can also write a macro that is a series of pairs of BNxx; to 
select a band and PC to set the power. It's hard to remember where you started 
with this technique, tho. 

Dick, K6KR

On Jan 8, 2012, at 9:35, Art Suberbielle k...@aol.com wrote:

 Hello all,
 
 
 Trying to write a Macro to set the Power to 100w when not using my amp. Macro 
 1 is PC100 and works fine on the band the rig is set on when applied. How can 
 I write a Macro to change the power settings on several bands at the same 
 time? For example, 40, 80, and 160.
 
 
 Thanks for any help.
 
 
 73,
 
 
 Art KZ5D
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[Elecraft] K3 DVR playback level adjustment necessary or possible?

2012-01-08 Thread Robert Sands
I notice the ALC is maxed when playing back the DVR. Can the playback level
be adjusted? I get no complaints but it seems overdriven because the ALC
is so far to the right. Perhaps the ALC can handle any level and no
adjustment is necessary.
Bob
K7VO

-
Robert Sands
K7VO
Olympia, WA
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[Elecraft] diversity receive antennas

2012-01-08 Thread goldtr8
What do folks use for diversity receive antennas.

Do you have a dedicated receive antenna or just a different TX antenna 
from the antenna farm.

I am looking for ideas on what to do next as I have the big loop and the 
dipole.

Right now I have no idea on what I should do next.

Thanks
Don

~73
Don
KD8NNU
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3-2M extended receive?

2012-01-08 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Mike is quite right; it has *everything* to do with ones age and physical
condition. When I was in the army, the standard proof of performance for an
infantryman was to carry a full field pack and an M1 rifle weighing a total
of 80 lbs on a forced march (continuous walking with no more that 10 minutes
rest each hour) for 50 miles. That took just about 24 hours. If one was
unlucky enough to be assigned a Browning Automatic Rifle (which I wasn't!)
the total came in just at 100 lbs. 

After suitable training I was amazed at just how easy that was to do, even
cross country in hilly terrain. Of course we ate like horses and were worn
out when it was done. Now, 50 years later, I can barely lift 80 lbs, much
less carry it anywhere, Hi! 

If really going into the wilderness, I prefer redundancy. I don't carry
significant resources to repair a rig, so I want more than one piece of
equipment to do the job, even if it costs a few ounces extra, especially if
I might need it for emergency communications. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Er...yes...many time in the last third of a century.  If you want a real
workout,
come to the Sipsey Wilderness in north Alabama since several EF4 and 5
tornadoes
tore through it on 27 April 2011!

73,
Mike / KK5F

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[Elecraft] diversity receive antennas

2012-01-08 Thread Ron Leech
*You could try a**small _1m_ loop from **Pixel TechnologiesIt has a amp 
that shuts off on tx *
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[Elecraft] Elecraft AF-1 Filter Sold

2012-01-08 Thread Robert Brock
Thanks to all who answered my posting.  The filter has been sold.

Bob - K9OSC

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[Elecraft] KPA500

2012-01-08 Thread Michael Raskin
I just finished assembling my KPA500 (s/n 625).  I was very careful in 
following the instruction, or so I thought.  When I plugged it in and turned on 
the rear rocker panel switch, the fuses immediately blew.  I have the 120 VAC 
power cord and the 12 Amp fuses installed.  Any suggestions where to start?

Mike, W4UM
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Re: [Elecraft] diversity receive antennas

2012-01-08 Thread Don Wilhelm
Don,

You should get a variety of answers - there are some using dedicated 
receive antennas, and there are others who are using two transmit 
antennas.  It depends on what they have available.

It is nice to have one antenna with vertical polarization and another 
with horizontal polarization, but two antennas separated by some 
distance can work too.  Use what you have.

If you only have 2 antennas, I suggest that you connect the subRX to use 
the Non-Transmit antenna connected to the KAT3.  To use that, you will 
need to connect the TMP cable between the KAT3 and the SubRX AUX antenna 
input.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/8/2012 5:25 PM, gold...@charter.net wrote:
 What do folks use for diversity receive antennas.

 Do you have a dedicated receive antenna or just a different TX antenna
 from the antenna farm.

 I am looking for ideas on what to do next as I have the big loop and the
 dipole.

 Right now I have no idea on what I should do next.

 Thanks
 Don

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 ATU?

2012-01-08 Thread Tom Crites
I'll mess around with it.  My K2 tunes it without any problems so I
thought the KX1 ATU would also.

Thanks,

-TAC


On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 3:55 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:
 Are you tuning the buddipole per the instructions? If so, the KX1 should
 have no trouble with it. Indeed, you might not need  the tuner at all!

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-


 My KX1 (with tuner) tunes great to a random wire or my G5RV but I can't get
 better than about 6.1 into my home made Buddie Pole (coax feed). I'm
 assuming I need a balun? Maybe like Elecraft mini 1:1 or 4:1 unit.
 -TAC, KC8SES

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500

2012-01-08 Thread Phil Debbie Salas
Check that the terminal strip board on the rear panel is not shorted to the 
rear panel.  There is supposed to be an insulator between the terminal strip 
board and the rear panel.

Phil - AD5X 

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500

2012-01-08 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
1) Do you have the yellow tap connected to the PS board and the other taps
mounted on the rear panel? 

2) Are the parking connectors on the rear panel for the unused taps
insulated from the chassis and each other?

3) Are the wires to the rectifier board (on the Z bracket just behind the
front panel) connected correctly?

4) Are the Primary connections to the power supply board (just inside the
left side panel) correct? 

If those things are all correct, post the question to K3Support at Elecraft
dot com. They will work through it with you. 

Good luck! 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Michael Raskin
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 3:47 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500

I just finished assembling my KPA500 (s/n 625).  I was very careful in
following the instruction, or so I thought.  When I plugged it in and turned
on the rear rocker panel switch, the fuses immediately blew.  I have the 120
VAC power cord and the 12 Amp fuses installed.  Any suggestions where to
start?

Mike, W4UM
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Re: [Elecraft] diversity receive antennas

2012-01-08 Thread Jack Smith
The chief driver of diversity gain is antenna separation. The usual 
recommendation is 10 wavelengths separation for low correlation fading. 
That's impractical for most amateur installations, particularly on the 
lower frequency bands where diversity gain may be the most desired.

I've made some measurements using simultaneous capture of signal levels 
with  two identical spectrum analyzers and  two antennas that suggest 
around 3 dB diversity gain is achievable with ~0.5 wavelengths 
separation, but I'm hesitant to put too much faith in that figure as it 
used two rather different antennas - an 80 meter band inverted vee and 
one of my Z1501 active antennas.  Nonetheless, the data clearly showed 
increasing diversity gain with increasing antenna separation measured in 
terms of wavelengths over the frequency range 760 KHz - 15 MHz, with 
some diversity gain possible with tiny separation - 0.1 wavelength. Not 
a lot of gain, but enough to measure after post processing analysis.

Although about 3 dB diversity gain was achieved around 0.5 wavelength 
separation, that does not mean a 3 dB improvement at all times. Rather, 
that's the mean of the gain probability distribution. A certain 
percentage of the time, the gain may be 0 dB and for a certain 
percentage of the time it may be 6 or 8 dB or more. The percentage of 
time 6 or 8 dB diversity gain is seen with 0.5 wavelength separation is, 
of course, small, with smaller gains being more frequent.

Jack K8ZOA


On 1/8/2012 6:48 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Don,

 You should get a variety of answers - there are some using dedicated
 receive antennas, and there are others who are using two transmit
 antennas.  It depends on what they have available.

 It is nice to have one antenna with vertical polarization and another
 with horizontal polarization, but two antennas separated by some
 distance can work too.  Use what you have.

 If you only have 2 antennas, I suggest that you connect the subRX to use
 the Non-Transmit antenna connected to the KAT3.  To use that, you will
 need to connect the TMP cable between the KAT3 and the SubRX AUX antenna
 input.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 1/8/2012 5:25 PM, gold...@charter.net wrote:
 What do folks use for diversity receive antennas.

 Do you have a dedicated receive antenna or just a different TX antenna
 from the antenna farm.

 I am looking for ideas on what to do next as I have the big loop and the
 dipole.

 Right now I have no idea on what I should do next.

 Thanks
 Don

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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (1/8/12)

2012-01-08 Thread Phillip Shepard
We had a very nice and well attended net today, with 32 participants over a
27 minute period.  Eric, WA6HHQ, checked in and fielded numerous questions
about several different up-coming products.  Thanks Eric.  I'm not sure, but
this may be the first time all of the check-ins were using K3s!  Have a
great week.

Here is the list of participants.

Station NameQTH Rig S/N

W4RKS   Jim AL  K3  3618
AG6AZ   Keith   CA  K3  1391
KA0NCR  Arnie   NE  K3  185
W0CZKen ND  K3  457
W6SUJohnCA  K3  1303
K4TMCaryVA  K3  3448
K6DSW   Don CA  K3  3138
W5ETG   GaryTX  K3  3227
WV5IDwayne  TX  K3  5287
KC5RY   George  TX  K3  5208
WA6HHQ  EricCA  K3  000
W8OVDaveTX  K3  3139
N6JWJohnCA  K3  936
KG6IRW  David   CA  K3  4982
NT1RBillME  K3  124
W4PFM   PaulVA  K3  1673
K6SRD   Scott   CA  K3  4104
N4IEZ   BillAZ  K3  5675
KE5GBC  MikeTX  K3  5047QRP
K4GCJ   Gerry   NC  K3  1597
W8RTJ   Jim OH  K3  4553QRP
KN5LJohnTX  K3  4448
W3PGEd  MD  K3  4268
ZL1PWD  Peter   NZ  K3  139
NL7ADougAK  K3  4568
KL7UW   Ed  AK  K3  4043QRP
AC0NM   Glenn   AZ  K3  2843
WN8AJim MI  K3  3480
KH7TJohnHI  K3  125
K1JMJohnAZ  K3  5986
W7NMD   Palmer  AR  K3  3779
NS7PPhilOR  K3  1826

73,

Phil, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 ATU?

2012-01-08 Thread Don Wilhelm
Tom,

The KAT2 (and KAT100) has 8 inductors and 8 capacitors to choose from - 
in 256 steps.  The KXAT1 has only 3 inductors and 3 capacitors - only 7 
steps.
That information is available right at the front of the manual in the 
Specifications section.  If the desire was for a tuner that would work 
as well as the KAT2, then a quick glance at the Specifications would 
tell whether it would even come close.  All things Elecraft are not 
created equal - things that have to be crammed into small spaces must 
provide some limits, and in this particular case it is a significantly 
reduced matching range.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/8/2012 6:54 PM, Tom Crites wrote:
 I'll mess around with it.  My K2 tunes it without any problems so I
 thought the KX1 ATU would also.

 Thanks,

 -TAC


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[Elecraft] K3 Assistance Requested

2012-01-08 Thread Timothy Eklin
I don't where to start.  I have a K3 that is nearly loaded and I decided to
add a couple of more options.  I installed the KDVR3 and KXV3A in
preparation for a P3 in the near future. I activated both units via the
CONFIG menu and the KDVR3 was recognized. I was able to do the calibration
of the KXV3A using the utility software and it checked okay at all three
power levels.  I made a couple of contacts and all seemed well.

Here is were it gets weird... I noticed that the SUB RX would no longer
work independently (CONFIG: set to YES) as it did before I added the latest
components. So, I decided to pull the cover off and remove the SUB RX unit
to be sure everything was connected.  I reinstalled the SUB RX and
confirmed that all appeared well visually.  Now, I have zero output on my
watt meter and the VFO's are still not working independently. If I equalize
the VFO's, I hear the same station on both speakers alternately.  However,
If I rotate the B VFO the display changes frequency but the it does not
actually change the RX frequency.

Things that I've tried:  I've restored from my last settings backup and
installed latest firmware again.  I've reset the processor to factory
condition (still no output).  I've restored again to a backup version of
the settings using the utility software.  I've done the CONFIG:VCO routine
for both receivers as suggested in the troubleshooting section.  I've
attempted to do the Transmitter Gain Calibration a second time today and it
does not work (errors out after 8 seconds).  It did work earlier today
before I lost all output.

I DID at some point today use the CONFIG:KXV3 TEST feature as I was fishing
around for solutions.  I'm now sure what exactly this means but it may have
something to do with my current situation.
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[Elecraft] KX3 Kit/Assembled Decision ii

2012-01-08 Thread mffitz
I posted this once but it still says Not accepted by site so I'm trying
again. Sorry if it's a duplicate.

I am trying to decide if I want a kit or assembled KX3 and I want to know
what the kit is like.  Are the boards mainly pre-populated with surface
mount devices? Is it mostly about wiring up the controls and connectors? Can
anyone estimate the number of hours to assemble? I enjoy kits and have an
early KX1 but with my eyes it may be worth the cost to have it assembled if
SMDs are involved. TNX Michael


--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-Kit-Assembled-Decision-ii-tp7166356p7166356.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] diversity receive antennas

2012-01-08 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
A lot of answers to diversity questions seem to be based on using diversity
 to feed electrical devices that combine signals before they are heard.
This was most often done to defeat signal level fading.  Some very accurate
technical answers to that are heard based on 100% electronic process.

However, there is a different KIND of diversity, where one signal is fed to
the left ear, without any correction, and the same signal from a different
antenna and identical phase-locked RX is fed to the right ear, without any
correction.  This allows the brain to decide what is different between the
two signals, frequently producing a sense of stereophonic aural spatiality.
 This latter is far more useful for SSB and CW reception. Frequent
descriptions of this have the incoming sky wave noise spread around the
audio horizon, while the discrete signals come from a single point on the
audio horizon.  There are some number of other effects, but always seeming
to make difficult signals easier to copy.

With this latter kind of useful diversity, a NE beverage in one ear and a
NW beverage in the other can produce considerable improvements in weak
signal copy.  This is a completely different diversity strategy than
hearing multiple sources to reduce or eliminate fading.

73, Guy.

On Sun, Jan 8, 2012 at 7:14 PM, Jack Smith 
jack.sm...@cliftonlaboratories.com wrote:

 The chief driver of diversity gain is antenna separation. The usual
 recommendation is 10 wavelengths separation for low correlation fading.
 That's impractical for most amateur installations, particularly on the
 lower frequency bands where diversity gain may be the most desired.

 I've made some measurements using simultaneous capture of signal levels
 with  two identical spectrum analyzers and  two antennas that suggest
 around 3 dB diversity gain is achievable with ~0.5 wavelengths
 separation, but I'm hesitant to put too much faith in that figure as it
 used two rather different antennas - an 80 meter band inverted vee and
 one of my Z1501 active antennas.  Nonetheless, the data clearly showed
 increasing diversity gain with increasing antenna separation measured in
 terms of wavelengths over the frequency range 760 KHz - 15 MHz, with
 some diversity gain possible with tiny separation - 0.1 wavelength. Not
 a lot of gain, but enough to measure after post processing analysis.

 Although about 3 dB diversity gain was achieved around 0.5 wavelength
 separation, that does not mean a 3 dB improvement at all times. Rather,
 that's the mean of the gain probability distribution. A certain
 percentage of the time, the gain may be 0 dB and for a certain
 percentage of the time it may be 6 or 8 dB or more. The percentage of
 time 6 or 8 dB diversity gain is seen with 0.5 wavelength separation is,
 of course, small, with smaller gains being more frequent.

 Jack K8ZOA


 On 1/8/2012 6:48 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
  Don,
 
  You should get a variety of answers - there are some using dedicated
  receive antennas, and there are others who are using two transmit
  antennas.  It depends on what they have available.
 
  It is nice to have one antenna with vertical polarization and another
  with horizontal polarization, but two antennas separated by some
  distance can work too.  Use what you have.
 
  If you only have 2 antennas, I suggest that you connect the subRX to use
  the Non-Transmit antenna connected to the KAT3.  To use that, you will
  need to connect the TMP cable between the KAT3 and the SubRX AUX antenna
  input.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  On 1/8/2012 5:25 PM, gold...@charter.net wrote:
  What do folks use for diversity receive antennas.
 
  Do you have a dedicated receive antenna or just a different TX antenna
  from the antenna farm.
 
  I am looking for ideas on what to do next as I have the big loop and the
  dipole.
 
  Right now I have no idea on what I should do next.
 
  Thanks
  Don
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Kit/Assembled Decision ii

2012-01-08 Thread Rick Tavan N6XI
It's a semi-kit. All the boards are assembled and tested at the factory.
All we do is mechanical assembly, no soldering required. My guess is that
it will take a few hours using simple tools. I'm looking forward to it.

/Rick N6XI

On Sun, Jan 8, 2012 at 6:46 PM, mffitz mff...@md.metrocast.net wrote:


 I am trying to decide if I want a kit or assembled KX3 and I want to know
 what the kit is like.  Are the boards mainly pre-populated with surface
 mount devices? Is it mostly about wiring up the controls and connectors?
 Can
 anyone estimate the number of hours to assemble? I enjoy kits and have an
 early KX1 but with my eyes it may be worth the cost to have it assembled if
 SMDs are involved. TNX Michael


 --
Rick Tavan N6XI
Truckee, CA
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for January 8th 9th, 2012

2012-01-08 Thread kevinr
Good Evening,
Twenty meters was rather good today while forty meters was noisy.  
The local stations in California were both running 5 watts.  Copy on 
them was great.  But, as the distance increased, the others were weaker 
and covered with more static.  There was some QSB which caused ringing.  
I had never heard that before; I thought it was my filters so I kept 
fiddling with them.

Weather reports were not normal for this time of year.  Mild and 
sunny.  Here it broke into the 50s with very clear skies.  When I took a 
walk I looked down below me and saw the valleys were a sea of clouds.  I 
could see waves on top where the wind was blowing across it.  Then as 
the clouds ran into the mountains in a box canyon you could see them 
oscillate up and down in slow cycles.  The view was fascinating.

 On to the lists =

   On 14050.5 kHz at 2300z:
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K1 - 1124
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686
KB3FBR - Joe - PA - K2 - 6178
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994

   On 7045.5 kHz at 0100z:
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K1 - 1124
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
KN5L - John - TX - K3 - 4448
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398

I am glad the sun is coming back.  The extra light helps me get more 
done.  But when the sun is out I don't get a lot done at either bench or 
desk :)  Luckily there is plenty to do outside so I don't feel lazy.  
Nothing like a limb lopper to work your upper body.  Or all the 
repetitions involved with stacking wood.  With no snow and little rain 
there is not much keeping me inside.  But the fresh air and clear skies 
are a lot of fun to experience.  Time to think of hiking and figuring 
out the lightest antennas to take along.  Does wire wrap wire work?

Until next week stay well,
   73,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)
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Re: [Elecraft] diversity receive antennas

2012-01-08 Thread Vic K2VCO
I use either a vertical active antenna vs. my dipole on 40 and 80, or a ferrite 
loop on 
160 vs. the vertical transmitting antenna. My idea is to use different 
polarization so 
they will not fade the same way. It seems to work.

I have not found diversity useful on the higher bands where I have a beam 
because the 
signal picked up by the beam is so much stronger than that from the verticals. 
Of course 
if I had a pair of beams separated by a few wavelengths, that would be cool!

On 1/8/2012 2:25 PM, gold...@charter.net wrote:
 What do folks use for diversity receive antennas.

 Do you have a dedicated receive antenna or just a different TX antenna
 from the antenna farm.

 I am looking for ideas on what to do next as I have the big loop and the
 dipole.

 Right now I have no idea on what I should do next.

 Thanks
 Don

 ~73
 Don
 KD8NNU
-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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[Elecraft] K3 diversity receive antennas

2012-01-08 Thread Erik Basilier
I use a an R-5 vertical (designed for 20 thru 10) at 15 ft for diversity in
combination with a beam at 58 ft, with about 30 ft horizontal separation. I
find that it works well most of the time, but have to use much more gain in
the radio for the vertical because of weak signals. On 40 the situation is
aggravated because the vertical is not designed for that band, but it
usually works well enough to justify turning on diversity. At Field Day I
have used a BuddiPole vertical (i.e. BuddiStick) tuned to 15 for diversity
with a main antenna that is a 15 m horizontal dipole or a 40m 2-el wire
beam. This also works well (on 15 and 40; these were coax-fed single band
antennas).

Last summer I didn’t have the BuddiStick but instead a ¼ wave wire vertical
tuned for 20. That worked fine too, with the usual skewing of gain controls.

 

73, 

Erik K7TV

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[Elecraft] OT - sound cards

2012-01-08 Thread Erik Basilier
I have never expected standard sound cards to be really good, but I have
nevertheless used them successfully for purposes like digital modes. When I
built a SoftRock I got an E-MU 0202 for the higher sampling frequency. When
I sold my LP-PAN and SoftRock, the E-MU went with them. My current main
computer is a high-end HP desktop running Windows 7, a little over a year
old. The output sound quality is not bad, but not until recently did I use
the microphone input for anything. Then I suddenly needed to make some voice
recordings using a microphone. Every recording has terrible background noise
which is not being picked up by the mike, an has nothing to do with
grounding etc. The noise is a mix of white (or is it pink?) noise with added
irregular frying-pan crackle and some mosquito whine. It is the same with
different microphones, and increased microphone output doesn't help because
the noise is not reduced when the software mike gain is reduced. Overall,
the S/N is worse than for the average landline telephone call (but of course
the latter at times has distortion that is much worse than the computer's).
Curious, I took the same microphones to my old XP laptop. It had much less
noise! To perfect the comparison I then went to adjust the mike gain in the
XP software. Hmmm. there is a checkmark in a box for noise reduction. I
unchecked it, and now the laptop had a lot of noise, but not quite as much
as the desktop. Then I went to the desktop to look for a noise reduction
option. I found it and turned it on. Big improvement. Now the noise is low
enough for my voice recording purposes. However, the noise reduction causes
very obvious artifacts similar to ones often found in HAM radio noise
reduction. The noise reduction on the old laptop seemed better in this
respect.

 

At this point I obviously don't know everything that is going on, but I have
seen enough to have a gut feel. So, I will lay out my thoughts to the group,
and hope that others will fill in the blanks and correct me where I may be
jumping to conclusions. Here are my current thoughts:

 

. It is somewhat difficult to keep noise out of a low-level audio
circuit that is sitting next to a lot of high-speed digital circuitry, as on
a PC motherboard (there is no separate sound card in this PC).

. Rather than spend the extra bucks for physical separation or
shielding, etc, PC manufacturers routinely ignore the noise issues, and
cover them up with noise reduction algorithms, which get more aggressive as
the noise environment inside PC's gets worse.

. Other brands of computers are probably just as bad (or can someone
recommend a brand that comes with low noise audio as standard?).

. If I get another external USB sound card of good quality, I should
definitely not limit its use to soundcard-dependent SDR's, but use it for
digital modes too.

. If I do use an internal soundcard for digital modes again, I had
better make sure that the noise reduction in the PC is turned off, as noise
reduction is known to be incompatible with digital modulation schemes.

. As if I didn't know it already, Elecraft has it right when they
don't make their radios rely on computer sound cards!

 

73 And thanks in advance,

Erik K7TV

 

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Re: [Elecraft] OT - sound cards

2012-01-08 Thread David Gilbert

If you can't even make decent quality voice recordings, you have 
something else wrong.  Unless it is simply defective, even the cheapest 
sound chip out there isn't going to act like you describe.

And what exactly do you think the I/Q outputs of the KX3 are going to be 
using?

Dave   AB7E



On 1/8/2012 11:24 PM, Erik Basilier wrote:
 I have never expected standard sound cards to be really good, but I have
 nevertheless used them successfully for purposes like digital modes. When I
 built a SoftRock I got an E-MU 0202 for the higher sampling frequency. When
 I sold my LP-PAN and SoftRock, the E-MU went with them. My current main
 computer is a high-end HP desktop running Windows 7, a little over a year
 old. The output sound quality is not bad, but not until recently did I use
 the microphone input for anything. Then I suddenly needed to make some voice
 recordings using a microphone. Every recording has terrible background noise
 which is not being picked up by the mike, an has nothing to do with
 grounding etc. The noise is a mix of white (or is it pink?) noise with added
 irregular frying-pan crackle and some mosquito whine. It is the same with
 different microphones, and increased microphone output doesn't help because
 the noise is not reduced when the software mike gain is reduced. Overall,
 the S/N is worse than for the average landline telephone call (but of course
 the latter at times has distortion that is much worse than the computer's).
 Curious, I took the same microphones to my old XP laptop. It had much less
 noise! To perfect the comparison I then went to adjust the mike gain in the
 XP software. Hmmm. there is a checkmark in a box for noise reduction. I
 unchecked it, and now the laptop had a lot of noise, but not quite as much
 as the desktop. Then I went to the desktop to look for a noise reduction
 option. I found it and turned it on. Big improvement. Now the noise is low
 enough for my voice recording purposes. However, the noise reduction causes
 very obvious artifacts similar to ones often found in HAM radio noise
 reduction. The noise reduction on the old laptop seemed better in this
 respect.



 At this point I obviously don't know everything that is going on, but I have
 seen enough to have a gut feel. So, I will lay out my thoughts to the group,
 and hope that others will fill in the blanks and correct me where I may be
 jumping to conclusions. Here are my current thoughts:



 . It is somewhat difficult to keep noise out of a low-level audio
 circuit that is sitting next to a lot of high-speed digital circuitry, as on
 a PC motherboard (there is no separate sound card in this PC).

 . Rather than spend the extra bucks for physical separation or
 shielding, etc, PC manufacturers routinely ignore the noise issues, and
 cover them up with noise reduction algorithms, which get more aggressive as
 the noise environment inside PC's gets worse.

 . Other brands of computers are probably just as bad (or can someone
 recommend a brand that comes with low noise audio as standard?).

 . If I get another external USB sound card of good quality, I should
 definitely not limit its use to soundcard-dependent SDR's, but use it for
 digital modes too.

 . If I do use an internal soundcard for digital modes again, I had
 better make sure that the noise reduction in the PC is turned off, as noise
 reduction is known to be incompatible with digital modulation schemes.

 . As if I didn't know it already, Elecraft has it right when they
 don't make their radios rely on computer sound cards!



 73 And thanks in advance,

 Erik K7TV



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