[Elecraft] RTTY on K3:Some questions
A few issues here. Firstly true RTTY is frequency shift keying which uses a DC voltage change to shift the radio frequency. In the case of MMTTY you need a simple transistor switching interface which can be built into a serial D plug shell. From memory the circuit is in the MMTTY manual. You would use the K3 on FSK. Most users these days tend to use audio tones on transmit for RTTY using a program such as fldigi (http://www.w1hkj.com/) which is a lot simpler than HRD, offers several modes in addition to RTTY, is freeware and is available for Apple Mac, Linux and Windows. There is a K3 control file (k3.xml) and you just need the fldigi program, no need for the rig control program. You would run the K3 on DATA A, the fldigi program controls the TX/RX via the RS232 serial lead to the K3, reads the K3 frequency via the same lead, and sends/receives audio via the K3 line in/out to your computer sound card. The program displays real frequencies on the screen for the various data modes, including RTTY. HRD works in a similar manner to fldigi, but is (in my opinion) more complex than it needs to be, seems to be forever in beta versions and from the next release will no longer be free. 73 Dave, G4AON - Hi, I just started using RTTY on the K3 and I have some questions that I hope someone can answer. I am using MMTTY and so far I have done the following: __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] RF on power to K3 question
Hi Fred, I am asking the question simply because I was warned by another ham to consider the possibility of a power spike on the feed to the K3 with the choke by another ham. He was not fully sure and suggested that I post the question to the folks who might really know the answer. Plus if it is good practice to put a CAP across the batteries for the way I am doing my power to help with a clean signal, clean power and better battery life I want use good practice. If I had not been prompted by the ham who suggested a CAP I would have never asked the question. Power is an SGC power cube good for 500w. Antennas are a 2 WL loop for 160m and a dipole and the shack is on the second floor. Maybe the answer to the question is so obvious that it just shows my total ignorance. Hey but I do learn slowly at times :-). Example I now work split and if you remember those posts from me on that topic I think everyone wanted to hit me in the head with a baseball bat. Like I indicated right now everything is working real good and I have no problems, but I dont want to be in the process of creating new ones. Cheers Don ~73 Don KD8NNU On Sun, Feb 5, 2012 at 12:32 AM, Fred Townsend wrote: Hello Don: If you have cured your RF problems I'm not sure why you are asking your questions. In general adding a choke or capacitors to your power lead shouldn't hurt anything so give it a try. I will add detail to your questions below. BTW you should indicate how much power you are running and where your antenna is located relative to your K3. FT -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of gold...@charter.net Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2012 7:03 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] RF on power to K3 question Dear Group, I have determined that the majority of my RF shack problems were related to RF on the power lead to the K3. Winding 7 turns thru a 1 clamp on #31 ferrite has cured the symptoms. With this choke in place everything is even happy on 160m. So let me explain how I power the equipment and then ask about putting a CAP across the power. The radio and SGC power cube amp are powered by 5 batteries connected in parallel. I use a very small battery tender connected at all times to keep the batteries at a full charge.When using the amp I also float a battery charger set to its mid range position with a max of 15 amps of charge to help maintain the system. From this perspective it works real well for powering the system. But I wanted to be sure that everyone understands how I power the system as I get to my questions below. Plus there is the normal AC stuff like the PC and so on. All equipment is grounded to a single point ground on one of the negative posts of a battery. Do you have an earth ground? That is a ground rod. Depending on your setup that may or may not help. FT So now to the RF problem. If you have followed earlier posts I have been chasing RF in my shack for quite awhile and finally started playing around with a clamp on meter and that is what tipped me off to the power feed of the K3. With the power feed determined as a problem (there still could be more). One of the tests I did was to remove all of the chargers and disconnect all the AC equipment and connect the amp output directly to the dummy load. RF was still present even after I attempted to remove all influences to verify if something was putting this on the power leads. So now I believe it is there natively when in TX and is not from a charger or PC or other antenna. That suggests you may have other, as yet, undetected problems. FT Based on my reading about chokes, I put 7 wraps in the 1 big snap on ferrite. This killed the RF and like I stated in the opening paragraph with everything reconnected again the system is now happy at 160m. It now actually works real well. This is good. FT In discussing what I found with others, I have learned that batteries are not filters and all the HF energy goes right thru them. Recommendations have been made to put a ceramic capacitor across the batteries to filter the HF out. I also have been cautioned that there may be a problem with a choke on the power feed to the K3 that could put a power spike on the feed line that could do damage when turning the radio on and off. So here are the questions. Can the choke cause a problem with power spikes that could damage the K3. No. FT Should a CAP be placed across the batteries to filter out the HF. If yes how do I determine what size. Adding a cap won't hurt but it probably won't help much either. It might make your battery tender happier. It should be pointed out your K3 already has bypass caps across the input power leads. Take a look at the schematic. As for value it is not critical as long as it is a
[Elecraft] Kitano Key URL
Good Morning, Kit now has a URL for the Kitano Key Co. at www.kitanokey.com pictures and payment info there. Could someone cross-post this info to FISTS please ? Thanks all, Niel WA7SSA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] RF on power to K3 question
Don, a spike is not a concern with choke for RF in the range of a few millihenrys such as you created winding a few turns through the ferrite core, but a larger value choke such as is often used for suppressing generator hash and noise on a d-c line can do damage. What happens is that whenever current flows through the choke a magnetic field is created around the windings. When the current stops, that magnetic field collapses producing a pulse in the winding. With small value chokes, such as the choke you made winding the wire through the ferrite core, the pulse is very tiny and of no concern. But that pulse can be as high as several hundred volts with larger value chokes, even working from a 13V supply. That would be plenty to do serious damage to the K3 and most other 13V electronics you may have on the circuit. Batteries are typically lousy conductors at RF. Putting a capacitor across the d-c line provides a low-impedance path for any RF on the line. That capacitor is usually built into any good rig, and the K3 is no exception. It has both a capacitor across the line and an RF choke in series with the power line where it enters the rig. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I am asking the question simply because I was warned by another ham to consider the possibility of a power spike on the feed to the K3 with the choke by another ham. He was not fully sure and suggested that I post the question to the folks who might really know the answer. Plus if it is good practice to put a CAP across the batteries for the way I am doing my power to help with a clean signal, clean power and better battery life I want use good practice. If I had not been prompted by the ham who suggested a CAP I would have never asked the question. Power is an SGC power cube good for 500w. Antennas are a 2 WL loop for 160m and a dipole and the shack is on the second floor. Maybe the answer to the question is so obvious that it just shows my total ignorance. Hey but I do learn slowly at times :-). Example I now work split and if you remember those posts from me on that topic I think everyone wanted to hit me in the head with a baseball bat. Like I indicated right now everything is working real good and I have no problems, but I dont want to be in the process of creating new ones. Cheers Don __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW filter advice request
I have pretty much the same operating style and opted for the following filters in BOTH receivers: 2.8khz 1.0khz 400hz Mike AC6JA K3 #3215 In a message dated 2/4/2012 9:03:53 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, rc...@verizon.net writes: Well, I'm in for a K3, and I need to pick some CW filters. I've read all the threads, checked the graphs, and now would appreciate some experiential reports/advice. I operate almost exclusively CW, mostly chasing DX, contests, and some occasional rag chewing. SSB only if no other choice/challenge. What have folks been using for (1) brick-wall protection under demanding CW conditions, and (2) looking around and casual chatting? Data modes aren't a consideration at this point. Thanks much in advance. ...robert -- Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY rc...@verizon.net Syracuse, New York, USA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW filter advice request
I would skip the 1.0 and replace it with either a 200 (if CW is primary) or either the 1.5 or 1.8 if you do a lot of combat SSB. Rick K6LE On 2/5/2012, at 8:54 , ac...@aol.com wrote: I have pretty much the same operating style and opted for the following filters in BOTH receivers: 2.8khz 1.0khz 400hz Mike AC6JA K3 #3215 In a message dated 2/4/2012 9:03:53 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, rc...@verizon.net writes: Well, I'm in for a K3, and I need to pick some CW filters. I've read all the threads, checked the graphs, and now would appreciate some experiential reports/advice. I operate almost exclusively CW, mostly chasing DX, contests, and some occasional rag chewing. SSB only if no other choice/challenge. What have folks been using for (1) brick-wall protection under demanding CW conditions, and (2) looking around and casual chatting? Data modes aren't a consideration at this point. Thanks much in advance. ...robert -- Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY rc...@verizon.net Syracuse, New York, USA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] DC Filter Choke on low voltage power supplies
Recent discussion of use of a filter choke with a battery powered K3 prompts my question in another application. I have a 50vdc 50amp switching PS which will power a 1100w sspa. Output filtering may be needed to suppress switching impulses on the 50vdc output. I have a large filter choke that was used in a 3000v PS which is probably at least 5-8Hy. Do I need a bleeder resistor across it for protecting circuits when powering off the switching PS? Or is using the large filter choke not a good idea at all. What size filter chokes would be recommended? The 50v PS is a HP PS intended for telephone industry (51v). 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45 == BP40IQ 500 KHz - 10-GHz www.kl7uw.com EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-? DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com Kits made by KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com/kits.htm == __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 Memory Editor
This was working when I last tried it. Now, when I do a SEND ALL TO K3, some of them seem to go correctly, but some give a timer error [something about time expired, it goes by fairly fast]. Do I need to reload the K3 Memory Editor program? 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] RF on power to K3 question
Since a common mode choke as is used for RFI suppression is generally wound with both conductors of the power cord (parallel) going through the toroid core, there is no impact on the DC since the field from one wire is cancelled by the field from the other wire. Remember, in any transmission line the currents in the two conductors are equal and opposite! 73, ... Joe, W4TV On 2/5/2012 11:31 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Don, a spike is not a concern with choke for RF in the range of a few millihenrys such as you created winding a few turns through the ferrite core, but a larger value choke such as is often used for suppressing generator hash and noise on a d-c line can do damage. What happens is that whenever current flows through the choke a magnetic field is created around the windings. When the current stops, that magnetic field collapses producing a pulse in the winding. With small value chokes, such as the choke you made winding the wire through the ferrite core, the pulse is very tiny and of no concern. But that pulse can be as high as several hundred volts with larger value chokes, even working from a 13V supply. That would be plenty to do serious damage to the K3 and most other 13V electronics you may have on the circuit. Batteries are typically lousy conductors at RF. Putting a capacitor across the d-c line provides a low-impedance path for any RF on the line. That capacitor is usually built into any good rig, and the K3 is no exception. It has both a capacitor across the line and an RF choke in series with the power line where it enters the rig. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I am asking the question simply because I was warned by another ham to consider the possibility of a power spike on the feed to the K3 with the choke by another ham. He was not fully sure and suggested that I post the question to the folks who might really know the answer. Plus if it is good practice to put a CAP across the batteries for the way I am doing my power to help with a clean signal, clean power and better battery life I want use good practice. If I had not been prompted by the ham who suggested a CAP I would have never asked the question. Power is an SGC power cube good for 500w. Antennas are a 2 WL loop for 160m and a dipole and the shack is on the second floor. Maybe the answer to the question is so obvious that it just shows my total ignorance. Hey but I do learn slowly at times :-). Example I now work split and if you remember those posts from me on that topic I think everyone wanted to hit me in the head with a baseball bat. Like I indicated right now everything is working real good and I have no problems, but I dont want to be in the process of creating new ones. Cheers Don __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] DC Filter Choke on low voltage power supplies
Ed, Using a large filter choke in a relatively low voltage supply is difficult because of the voltage drop across the choke - and that voltage drop will change with current draw changes - so instead of improving the regulation, it will actually worsen. The problem is in the size wire used to wind the choke. In other words, a 25 volt drop at 3000 volts is a drop in the bucket, but even a 10 volt drop at 50 volts is likely to be too much. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/5/2012 12:54 PM, Edward R. Cole wrote: Recent discussion of use of a filter choke with a battery powered K3 prompts my question in another application. I have a 50vdc 50amp switching PS which will power a 1100w sspa. Output filtering may be needed to suppress switching impulses on the 50vdc output. I have a large filter choke that was used in a 3000v PS which is probably at least 5-8Hy. Do I need a bleeder resistor across it for protecting circuits when powering off the switching PS? Or is using the large filter choke not a good idea at all. What size filter chokes would be recommended? The 50v PS is a HP PS intended for telephone industry (51v). __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Memory Editor
Probably not, but you may need to somehow improve the communications path to the radio. What version are you using? Dick -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred Jensen Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2012 10:23 AM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Memory Editor This was working when I last tried it. Now, when I do a SEND ALL TO K3, some of them seem to go correctly, but some give a timer error [something about time expired, it goes by fairly fast]. Do I need to reload the K3 Memory Editor program? 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] DC Filter Choke on low voltage power supplies
Don and all: Don is right, but I think that the situation is even worse than Don describes. The power supply for a tube-type rig need only generate up to a few Amps, not the 40 or 50 Amps that you might need for a big solid-state rig. An inductor on the order of several Henrys and rated for several tens of Amps would be impractically HUGE (and hideously expensive) for table-top gear. 73, Steve AA4AK On 2/5/2012 1:56 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Ed, Using a large filter choke in a relatively low voltage supply is difficult because of the voltage drop across the choke - and that voltage drop will change with current draw changes - so instead of improving the regulation, it will actually worsen. The problem is in the size wire used to wind the choke. In other words, a 25 volt drop at 3000 volts is a drop in the bucket, but even a 10 volt drop at 50 volts is likely to be too much. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/5/2012 12:54 PM, Edward R. Cole wrote: Recent discussion of use of a filter choke with a battery powered K3 prompts my question in another application. I have a 50vdc 50amp switching PS which will power a 1100w sspa. Output filtering may be needed to suppress switching impulses on the 50vdc output. I have a large filter choke that was used in a 3000v PS which is probably at least 5-8Hy. Do I need a bleeder resistor across it for protecting circuits when powering off the switching PS? Or is using the large filter choke not a good idea at all. What size filter chokes would be recommended? The 50v PS is a HP PS intended for telephone industry (51v). __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] DC Filter Choke on low voltage power supplies
Isn't that why such filtering is usually done by humungous filter capacitors? That would be my first choice to investigate. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Ed, Using a large filter choke in a relatively low voltage supply is difficult because of the voltage drop across the choke - and that voltage drop will change with current draw changes - so instead of improving the regulation, it will actually worsen. The problem is in the size wire used to wind the choke. In other words, a 25 volt drop at 3000 volts is a drop in the bucket, but even a 10 volt drop at 50 volts is likely to be too much. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/5/2012 12:54 PM, Edward R. Cole wrote: Recent discussion of use of a filter choke with a battery powered K3 prompts my question in another application. I have a 50vdc 50amp switching PS which will power a 1100w sspa. Output filtering may be needed to suppress switching impulses on the 50vdc output. I have a large filter choke that was used in a 3000v PS which is probably at least 5-8Hy. Do I need a bleeder resistor across it for protecting circuits when powering off the switching PS? Or is using the large filter choke not a good idea at all. What size filter chokes would be recommended? The 50v PS is a HP PS intended for telephone industry (51v). __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (2/5/12)
We had a nice net again today with good propagation. There was no discussion, but we had 32 participants over a 24 minute period, including three from AK and one from Hawaii. Enjoy the Super Bowl. Have a great week. Here is the list of participants. Station NameQTH Rig S/N KE5VDT Roger TX K3 6054 KC5RY George TX K3 5208 W2RWA DickNY K3 2603 N1YXIgorMA K3 4653 K4GCJ Gerry NC K3 1597 WA9EBX Larry KY K3 4309 KM4IK Ian GA K3 281 W4TMCaryVA K3 3448 KD1NA DaveMA K3 934 W7NMD Palmer AR K3 3779 K8DJC Nelson OH K3 560 W4PFM PaulVA K3 1673 W4RKS Jim AL K3 3618 W0CZKen ND K3 457 W4DEE Don SC K3 6148 N7QOC PaulUT K3 5563 K7MOE Mel AZ K3 6158 K1NWBrian RI K3 4974 W0FMTerry MO K3 474 NT1RBillME K3 124 QRP AE5JD BartTX K3 2106 KL7UW Ed AK K3 4043QRP W7QHD KurtAZ K2 1538 KE5RBS Kelvin AR K2 7162QRP KH6/W0SZSteve HI K3 6188 AL7VSam AK K2 3158 NL7ADougAK K3 4658 AC0NM Glenn AZ K3 2843 W8OVDaveTX K3 3139 KB2BD JohnNJ K2 3563 W6VYBob CA K3 2765 NS7PPhilOR K3 1826 73, Phil, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] DC Filter Choke on low voltage power supplies
On 2/5/2012 9:54 AM, Edward R. Cole wrote: Recent discussion of use of a filter choke with a battery powered K3 prompts my question in another application. I have a 50vdc 50amp switching PS which will power a 1100w sspa. Output filtering may be needed to suppress switching impulses on the 50vdc output. I have a large filter choke that was used in a 3000v PS which is probably at least 5-8Hy. Do I need a bleeder resistor across it for protecting circuits when powering off the switching PS? Or is using the large filter choke not a good idea at all. What size filter chokes would be recommended? The 50v PS is a HP PS intended for telephone industry (51v). As others have noted, the choke you describe is quite inappropriate. Any filtering required would be RF filtering, not low frequency filtering, and the most effective choke would be simply winding multiple turns of the DC conductors around a suitable ferrite core. Winding a SINGLE conductor forms a differential mode choke, and if you used a fairly large core, would be fine for the relatively small current needed to operate the receiver, but would likely saturate with the larger current on transmit. That's NOT a problem. Winding BOTH conductors through the core forms a common mode choke, and there's no danger of saturation. See measured data for various suitable ferrite cores in http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf Note that filtering is often necessary on BOTH the AC power line cord and the DC line. I use some noisy switchers that I bought cheap at a hamfest to float-charge big storage batteries that run my station, and I'm using common mode chokes on both cables. I also have capacitor rated for use on the 120V line across the line (that is, line to neutral). 73, Jim Brown K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] footswitch and amp
So, then, this begs a question. I have a K3 with an Ameritron AL-811H. I key the K3 with a Heil foot switch connected to a Heil ProSet 5. When I tried keying my amp off the red cable on the foot switch, I didn't get any amp keying. When I connected an RCA phono cable between the K3's key out jack and the amp's relay, everything works fine and dandy. Is there some setting on the K3 I missed to allow the amp to key from the foot switch instead of from the rig's TX? Thanks and 73, Ian Kahn, KM4IK Roswell, GA I'm not sure why you want to key the amp instead of the rig. I ran an 811H for years with my Icom 746 Pro and my K2s with a footswitch to the radio connected to my ProSet 5.. Same way I now run my K2 and my KPA500. Since I don't have a K3 (yet) I guess I might be missing something but since the amp, whether the 811H or KPA500 doesn't key until the radio does, I wouldn't think this would be an issue. And, I'm not sure how it would work keying the amp without the radio. Maybe because the KPA500 and K3 are basically symbiotic its not an issue but I certainly wouldn't have been able to use the IC 746 Pro or my K2 by keying the amp. What am I missing? John KE4D __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] RE50B microphone connected to K3
I guess I misused the term ground. vs shield. I think we are basically saying the same thing just that you are using correct terminology, My Bad. David Moes VE3DVY www.Facebook.com/PTBOTheatreGuild www.Twitter.com/PTBOTheatre www.YouTube.com/PTBOTheatreGuild --- Original message --- Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RE50B microphone connected to K3 From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Saturday, 04/02/2012 9:29 AM On 2/4/2012 8:42 AM, David Moes wrote: E50b is a low z dynamic mic that is well suited to voice and is an excellent mic should work well for K3. Yes. An RE11 or RE16 is even better, because they are directional and reduce background noise pickup (fans, room noise, etc.) To use this unbalanced you are correct to connect pin1 to pin3 (cold to ground) Yes, Pin 3 to Pin 1 is right, but Pin 1 is the SHIELD, not ground, and Pin One must go to the SHIELDING ENCLOSURE (the chassis) to provide shielding and prevent the Pin One Problem. The distinction between ground which some interpret (wrongly) as a connection to the EARTH, and a connection to the SHIELDING ENCLOSURE is important -- no connection to the EARTH is needed to prevent noise or RFI issues. do not connect the XLR connector body to the ground it should be left floating. Again, this word ground confuses the issue. Inside the microphone, there MUST be a connection between Pin One and the metal shell of the mic -- this provides shielding for the mic itself. AES Standards also call for a connection between Pine One and the shielding enclosure INSIDE EQUIPMENT, but require that there be NO connection between the cable shield and the cable shell. There are very important reasons for this that don't matter here. :) 73, Jim Brown K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] footswitch and amp
I can only guess that the red RCA from your foot switch is dead but you could determine that with an ohm meter. It should work as described. KE4D has the more elegant solution, I just migrated all my cables from the old Kenwood when my K3 arrived and have been too busy operating to integrate all the K3 features into my station. In our case we'll have a red cable to coil up at the foot switch. Jack - WE5ST From: k...@att.net k...@att.net To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sun, February 5, 2012 3:18:26 PM Subject: [Elecraft] footswitch and amp So, then, this begs a question. I have a K3 with an Ameritron AL-811H. I key the K3 with a Heil foot switch connected to a Heil ProSet 5. When I tried keying my amp off the red cable on the foot switch, I didn't get any amp keying. When I connected an RCA phono cable between the K3's key out jack and the amp's relay, everything works fine and dandy. Is there some setting on the K3 I missed to allow the amp to key from the foot switch instead of from the rig's TX? Thanks and 73, Ian Kahn, KM4IK Roswell, GA I'm not sure why you want to key the amp instead of the rig. I ran an 811H for years with my Icom 746 Pro and my K2s with a footswitch to the radio connected to my ProSet 5.. Same way I now run my K2 and my KPA500. Since I don't have a K3 (yet) I guess I might be missing something but since the amp, whether the 811H or KPA500 doesn't key until the radio does, I wouldn't think this would be an issue. And, I'm not sure how it would work keying the amp without the radio. Maybe because the KPA500 and K3 are basically symbiotic its not an issue but I certainly wouldn't have been able to use the IC 746 Pro or my K2 by keying the amp. What am I missing? John KE4D __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: SO2R-in-a-box
Any update on this? Would be interested in doing testing if that's helpful. Mark n2qt -Original Message- From: Wayne Burdick Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 10:32 AM To: Bill W4ZV Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: SO2R-in-a-box It may be possible to do full duplex with the sub receiver on a different band and antenna from main, since it's very well-shielded. I'll give this a try. Some firmware changes will be required. 73, Wayne http://www.elecraft.com On Oct 16, 2009, at 7:21 AM, Bill W4ZV btipp...@alum.mit.edu wrote: Brian Machesney wrote: Call me stubborn, but I believe that it should be possible to *make* the K3 and a logging program work together as SO2R-in-a-box. This probably involves external, switched bandpass filters, might involve an external antenna switch and/or applying a context swtich via the logging program, but it seems that it must be possible - and a good idea. Has anyone made this work? Is anyone working on it? Is anyone interested in starting up a new group (off this reflector) to work up ideas? True SO2R means you can listen on the second receiver while transmitting on the main radio receiver. That can NEVER happen with the K3 because both receivers are muted while transmitting. SO2V (Single Op 2 VFOs) is possible with N1MM as N1EU describes below: http://n1eu.com/K3/K3_subrx.htm#SO2V_Operation 73, Bill -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-SO2R-in-a-box-tp3835713p3835807.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] footswitch and amp
I have the Heil foot switch and I have two cables. One for keying the Radio and the other for the amp. The purpose as I understood the use was a delay between keying both. I have the black going to the Radio, not the red. I use a cable from the K3 to my W2 and then a cable from the W2 to my amp. The W2 sensor is after the amp and will shut down my amp if the SWR is too high. 73, Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jack Berry Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2012 3:55 PM To: k...@att.net; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] footswitch and amp I can only guess that the red RCA from your foot switch is dead but you could determine that with an ohm meter. It should work as described. KE4D has the more elegant solution, I just migrated all my cables from the old Kenwood when my K3 arrived and have been too busy operating to integrate all the K3 features into my station. In our case we'll have a red cable to coil up at the foot switch. Jack - WE5ST From: k...@att.net k...@att.net To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sun, February 5, 2012 3:18:26 PM Subject: [Elecraft] footswitch and amp So, then, this begs a question. I have a K3 with an Ameritron AL-811H. I key the K3 with a Heil foot switch connected to a Heil ProSet 5. When I tried keying my amp off the red cable on the foot switch, I didn't get any amp keying. When I connected an RCA phono cable between the K3's key out jack and the amp's relay, everything works fine and dandy. Is there some setting on the K3 I missed to allow the amp to key from the foot switch instead of from the rig's TX? Thanks and 73, Ian Kahn, KM4IK Roswell, GA I'm not sure why you want to key the amp instead of the rig. I ran an 811H for years with my Icom 746 Pro and my K2s with a footswitch to the radio connected to my ProSet 5.. Same way I now run my K2 and my KPA500. Since I don't have a K3 (yet) I guess I might be missing something but since the amp, whether the 811H or KPA500 doesn't key until the radio does, I wouldn't think this would be an issue. And, I'm not sure how it would work keying the amp without the radio. Maybe because the KPA500 and K3 are basically symbiotic its not an issue but I certainly wouldn't have been able to use the IC 746 Pro or my K2 by keying the amp. What am I missing? John KE4D __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] footswitch and amp
I did it a little different but got the same results, i think. My footswitch is a single microswitch which keys the amp and a relay. The closure of the relay keys the K3. When I let go of the foot They let go together. Sequence. Mel, K6KBE --- On Sun, 2/5/12, Bill K9YEQ k9...@live.com wrote: From: Bill K9YEQ k9...@live.com Subject: Re: [Elecraft] footswitch and amp To: 'Jack Berry' jlbe...@yahoo.com, k...@att.net, Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Sunday, February 5, 2012, 2:24 PM I have the Heil foot switch and I have two cables. One for keying the Radio and the other for the amp. The purpose as I understood the use was a delay between keying both. I have the black going to the Radio, not the red. I use a cable from the K3 to my W2 and then a cable from the W2 to my amp. The W2 sensor is after the amp and will shut down my amp if the SWR is too high. 73, Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jack Berry Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2012 3:55 PM To: k...@att.net; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] footswitch and amp I can only guess that the red RCA from your foot switch is dead but you could determine that with an ohm meter. It should work as described. KE4D has the more elegant solution, I just migrated all my cables from the old Kenwood when my K3 arrived and have been too busy operating to integrate all the K3 features into my station. In our case we'll have a red cable to coil up at the foot switch. Jack - WE5ST From: k...@att.net k...@att.net To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sun, February 5, 2012 3:18:26 PM Subject: [Elecraft] footswitch and amp So, then, this begs a question. I have a K3 with an Ameritron AL-811H. I key the K3 with a Heil foot switch connected to a Heil ProSet 5. When I tried keying my amp off the red cable on the foot switch, I didn't get any amp keying. When I connected an RCA phono cable between the K3's key out jack and the amp's relay, everything works fine and dandy. Is there some setting on the K3 I missed to allow the amp to key from the foot switch instead of from the rig's TX? Thanks and 73, Ian Kahn, KM4IK Roswell, GA I'm not sure why you want to key the amp instead of the rig. I ran an 811H for years with my Icom 746 Pro and my K2s with a footswitch to the radio connected to my ProSet 5.. Same way I now run my K2 and my KPA500. Since I don't have a K3 (yet) I guess I might be missing something but since the amp, whether the 811H or KPA500 doesn't key until the radio does, I wouldn't think this would be an issue. And, I'm not sure how it would work keying the amp without the radio. Maybe because the KPA500 and K3 are basically symbiotic its not an issue but I certainly wouldn't have been able to use the IC 746 Pro or my K2 by keying the amp. What am I missing? John KE4D __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Memory Editor
Please try the current version, from ftp://ftp.elecraft.com/tmp/K3/K3FreqMemoryEditor. It's version 1.0.249.0 73 de Dick, K6KR -Original Message- From: Fred Jensen [mailto:k6...@foothill.net] Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2012 1:37 PM To: Dick Dievendorff Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Memory Editor On 2/5/2012 11:06 AM, Dick Dievendorff wrote: Probably not, but you may need to somehow improve the communications path to the radio. What version are you using? K3 FW: 4.39 Mem Edit: 1.0.168.1 It says the USB-Ser adapter is running at 38K I have a P3 so the comm goes there and then to the K3 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] PTT plus VOX -- possible?
I'm trying to set up my K3 to be keyed by PTT from my laptop for voice contests to transmit the various canned messages under the N1MM F keys. I also want to be able to key with vox when I need to give an exchange by voice, such as when it includes a serial number that changes with each QSO. In the menu, I only see PTT or VOX, nothing to indicate both can work at the same time. Any ideas? Thanks and 73 Bob N6WG The Little Station with Attitude __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Config Documentation question
If one would peruse the K3 Programmer's Reference, one would find that most any menu item can be accessed though the serial port. No magic - it is just waiting for someone to build the code to do that. Not magic but it appears there is no computer friendly API for config items. Everything appears to be based off of the HMI for the human where you read a display and twist various knobs or press various buttons to make things happen. The programmer is apparently expected to code in these various sequences of button presses, knob twists, etc (as if a human were doing it) and read the display and parse out the display info. While it's not difficult, it is time consuming without a computer friendly API. 73, Tim K9TM, KP2TM On Feb 2, 2012, at 8:03 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: getting quite complex - yes, I agree that the K3 menu system has been complex for some time now, but the complexity has not changed recently - so the phrasegetting is not applicable IMHO. If one would peruse the K3 Programmer's Reference, one would find that most any menu item can be accessed though the serial port. No magic - it is just waiting for someone to build the code to do that. I do not think it will come from Elecraft (they are busy with other tasks), but if someone feels the challenge, then you just might come up with a winner - K3 configurator Either public domain or for purchase as the author would dictate. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/2/2012 5:03 PM, LA8AW wrote: My wish is a stand alone program that do --all-- the menu settings/configurations in the K3 like the extended menus in HRD (which seems to only have a limited number of menu configurations available). I find it strange that Elecraft doesn't do this in the K3 Utility..as long as the SW configuration of the K3 is getting quite complex. Is there any programming gurus out there who take the challenge...? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Screwdrivers for assembling Elecraft products- JIS suggested
I saw this topic when reading older message off-line with no connectivity, but want to put in my two-bits. I bought some JIS screwdrivers and bits, and have used them recently on my Elecraft gear, and find them far superior in fit to the screws to any of my high-quality Phillips drivers. I'm traveling, so can't see what the brands involved, but found them using a search engine. I strongly recommend using JIS bits on Elecraft gear. What do they use in the factory? 73, doug __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Screwdrivers for assembling Elecraft products- JIS suggested
I saw this topic when reading older message off-line with no connectivity, but want to put in my two-bits. I bought some JIS screwdrivers and bits, and have used them recently on my Elecraft gear, and find them far superior in fit to the screws to any of my high-quality Phillips drivers. I'm traveling, so can't see what the brands involved, but found them using a search engine. I strongly recommend using JIS bits on Elecraft gear. What do they use in the factory? 73, doug __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Battery for KX3
While I'm waiting on my KX3 to arrive I am trying to figure out just what I should get for a battery. Can't afford to pay a bunch for one either as the kitty is just about empty now! I'm thinking of a SLA, about 7 Ah. The idea of a Li-ion is good but from what I've seen for prices they are way out of my range. Any ideas? And is the end of the month still the target for shipping the KX3's? OK, back in my hole, Ron, KU7Y SOWP 5545M Arizona Outlaws Contest Club Brenda, AZ (Winter) Caldwell, ID (Summer) k...@qsl.net http://www.hatpinsandmore.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K3] Sub-receiver with one antenna jack
I have a fairly bare-bones K3, ie no provision for a 2nd antenna and no ATU installed. If I install the sub-rx, what is the penalty in terms of MDS due to the fact that both the main and sub rx will share the same antenna? Thanks/73, John AE5X http://www.ae5x.com/blog __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub-receiver with one antenna jack
The subrec includes an aux antenna jack (BNC) so you will still have possibility of two antennas. There is also the REC antenna on the KX3Va module (if installed). ...bill nr4c. -Original Message- From: John Harper [mailto:j...@ae5x.com] Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2012 10:31 PM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub-receiver with one antenna jack I have a fairly bare-bones K3, ie no provision for a 2nd antenna and no ATU installed. If I install the sub-rx, what is the penalty in terms of MDS due to the fact that both the main and sub rx will share the same antenna? Thanks/73, John AE5X http://www.ae5x.com/blog __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub-receiver with one antenna jack
And I'd expect NO penalty for sharing the same antenna except, perhaps, on 6 meters. The K3's noise figure is already quite low. Indeed, watching the e-mails posted here, it seems that a lot of K3 owners fail to turn on the attenuator on the lower bands and some even run the pre-amp which degrades the receiver performance even though it makes the bands sound louder. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- The subrec includes an aux antenna jack (BNC) so you will still have possibility of two antennas. There is also the REC antenna on the KX3Va module (if installed). ...bill nr4c. -Original Message- From: John Harper [mailto:j...@ae5x.com] Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2012 10:31 PM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub-receiver with one antenna jack I have a fairly bare-bones K3, ie no provision for a 2nd antenna and no ATU installed. If I install the sub-rx, what is the penalty in terms of MDS due to the fact that both the main and sub rx will share the same antenna? Thanks/73, John AE5X http://www.ae5x.com/blog __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Screwdrivers for assembling Elecraft products- JIS suggested
Interesting Doug. I haven't tried any of the JIS drivers. I can't say what the factory is using (I'm 600 miles north on the Oregon Coast), but I have noted powered screwdrivers when visiting the facility. Eric says that they are high-quality drivers that provide a very wide range of fine adjustment down to very low torque levels. In writing assembly manuals, I use ONLY those tools called for in the manual to ensure that a typical builder can actually do the assembly without difficulty. I have an assortment of Phillips screwdrivers dating back to some Proto tools I bought for my first job as a Radio and Radar Technician at Lockheed Aircraft in the late 1950's. Both of the Proto screwdrivers still hold the screw solidly after 50 years of hard use. That may be because, just like a screw head, if the driver is a good fit and doesn't wobble or cam, one made of quality steel will outlast its owner. I seldom take a short-cut and use a driver that doesn't fit solidly. More recently I bought a set of StaySharp Change-A-Blade drivers that fit into a common handle. The claim to be true Phillips driver heads. The PH1 and PH2 feel solid with no play in the fit and, like the Proto screwdrivers, I can hold the screwdriver horizontally without the screw falling off. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604 Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2012 4:43 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Screwdrivers for assembling Elecraft products- JIS suggested I saw this topic when reading older message off-line with no connectivity, but want to put in my two-bits. I bought some JIS screwdrivers and bits, and have used them recently on my Elecraft gear, and find them far superior in fit to the screws to any of my high-quality Phillips drivers. I'm traveling, so can't see what the brands involved, but found them using a search engine. I strongly recommend using JIS bits on Elecraft gear. What do they use in the factory? 73, doug __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Hum on Audio...
Hi List Mates; For those who may not be aware regarding the copper strap around the transformer (as Alan N1AL says) it acts as a shorted turn to external H fields make sure that the copper strap goes around the OUTSIDE of the windings as well as the core and NOT thru the window of the core where the windings go otherwise you will introduce a dead short circuit to the magnetic flux in the core which will short out the primary blow the mains fuse(s). Another approach is to make up a magnetic shield of about 4 or 6 sheets of 0.020 (0.5mm) thick transformer core lamination steel; each sheet cut to about 6 (152.4 mm) square - or- the same size as the side panel of the linear am side panel tape them together and fit them inside the amp adjacent to the core of the power transformer- in particurlar if the gap between the two halves of the C cores is facing toward the side of the linear amp. The sheets of transformer core steel will shunt the stray (leaking) magnetic field emanating from the two faces of the C) cores. Will work the same for the junctions of the E's I's of a conventional EI built transformer (although there is more stray magnetic field from transformers of EI construction. Lowest stray magnetic leakage is from transformers using toroidal core construction. Hope this information is of use. Eric VK3AX. K34250. On 2/4/2012 7:51 AM, Alan Bloom wrote: One trick I have used in the past is to put a copper strap around the transformer. It acts as a shorted turn for the radiated fields, reducing their amplitude. You could try that both on the power transformer and on the audio transformer in the K3. Of course, the strap needs to be soldered so it makes a continuous loop. Alan N1AL On Fri, 2012-02-03 at 12:21 -0800, k8...@mho.com wrote: This is a common problem when a amplifer is placed next to the left side of the K3 (especially if the transformer in the amp is on the rigt side - like the Alpha amps). The problem is caused because the K3 line in has a isolation transformer conveniently located on the left side. Place a power transformer next to it, and all hell breaks loose (something to do with the magnetic lines of force interacting). It took me a few hours of contemplating and experimenting to figure this out. If someone has come up with a easy fix, please let me know. I tried buying a steel plate (alum will definitely not work) at Home Depot and placed that between the K3 and amp; it did nothing to fix the problem (or even help). One sure fire fix is to turn off the amp! Dick K8ZTT --- k6...@me.com wrote: From: Lew Phelps K6LMPk6...@me.com To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Listelecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Hum on Audio... Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2012 10:24:07 -0800 Thank you, Tony! I had developed a maddening audio hum suddenly, and couldn't find the cause. The curious thing was that it was WORSE when no mike was plugged into the jack on the back panel. Based on your email, I checked the menu settings. Sure enough, MIC + LINE: ON. Switched to OFF and the hum totally disappeared. You don't need to adjust the LIN volume; just cut it off entirely. Lew K6LMP On Jan 14, 2012, at 9:02 AM, N2TK, Tony wrote: Make sure the LIN IN is not turned up. Early on I had a problem with hum in my audio, especially if an amp was close to the K3. For some reason my LIN IN was at max. Turned it down and hum went away. 73, N2TK, Tony -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 12:54 PM To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Hum on Audio... Jim, Well, I would call it mostly a buzz. Also, the only near magnetic field of the KPA500 power transformer is off, I mean powered off and unplugged, so that does not seem to be the problem. I just ran another test with everything disconnected, including ground and coax. With the K3 in TEST mode, key-down on the mic still produces the hum. I double checked the grounds. I did this because if I were to touch anything metal on the k3, the metal part of the PL259 or the ground strap, the hum is damped quite a bit to almost insignificant. It seems that if my rig were already well grounded this would not happen so I am curious if this is something I would normally expect. I will experiment with the TXEQ but this is a real puzzle I would like to solve, not merely erase it. 73, phil On Jan 13, 2012, at 9:37 AM, Jim Brown wrote: On 1/13/2012 9:20 AM, Phil Hystad wrote: Unfortunately, it is in both mics but not as strong in the Yamaha CM500 mic as in the MH2 but it is present. Clarification question. Is it HUM (pure 60 Hz), or BUZZ (mostly harmonics of 60 Hz)? If it's HUM, I would suspect magnetic field coupling into the audio, either from a big power
