Re: [Elecraft] K3 question

2012-02-28 Thread Kjeld Holm
Hi John,

 

To the best of my knowledge this is not possible.

 

I  wish somebody will prove that I am wrong.

 

Best regards

OZ1CCM, Kjeld

 

 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of WB9JPH
Sent: 29. februar 2012 07:34
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 question

 

How do I  set up my single receiver K3 to transmit on ANT 1 and Rx on ANT 2?

 

73

John

WB9JPH

 

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[Elecraft] K3 question

2012-02-28 Thread WB9JPH
How do I  set up my single receiver K3 to transmit on ANT 1 and Rx on ANT 2?

73
John
WB9JPH

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Transmitter problem

2012-02-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Dennis,

It sounds like you need to turn the manual to the Transmit Signal 
Tracing section in the back of the manual.
Once you isolate the failure to a specific stage, we can help you 
isolate to the component level.
Right now, all we can say is that there is a problem somewhere in the 
transmit path.
You might want to check for soldering problems, unsoldered components or 
those where the solder did not flow out adequately onto both the 
component lead and the thru-plated hole.  Re-flow the soldering with a 
hot soldering iron - 750 degF if you used leaded solder, 800 degF if you 
used unleaded solder.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/28/2012 9:58 PM, Dennis Rayfield wrote:
> I'm building a K1 and have everything finished and am at the stage for 
> transmitter alignment and test.  I use the out menu to set the output to 3 
> watts, but when I put it into tune mode it immediately shows P0.1 on the 
> display and there is no power out.  When I take it out of tune and go back to 
> the out menu, that still shows 3 watts.
>
> Any suggestions where I should start with this?
>
> Thanks for any suggestions.
>
>
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[Elecraft] K1 Transmitter problem

2012-02-28 Thread Dennis Rayfield
I'm building a K1 and have everything finished and am at the stage for 
transmitter alignment and test.  I use the out menu to set the output to 3 
watts, but when I put it into tune mode it immediately shows P0.1 on the 
display and there is no power out.  When I take it out of tune and go back to 
the out menu, that still shows 3 watts.

Any suggestions where I should start with this?  

Thanks for any suggestions.

Denny - KI3F



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Need Antenna Tuning Help

2012-02-28 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Guess FCP as a concept has hit the big time if it's being bandied on
Elecraft reflector.  :>)

We do not have much feedback from 80 meter use at all.  It's been 99.9%
 about 160 meters where the huge space crunch hurts the worst.

You DO need to do all the measuring at the output of the isolation
transformer.  Otherwise the coax can completely screw up the clues you need
to prune the thing.  I'll wait to hear what you measure at the IsoT.   The
only way you can correctly measure at the shack end of the coax is if you
are using an AIM 4170 and have run a remote calibration to the end of the
coax.  There are some other analyzing devices that can do the remote
measure thing besides the AIM.  The program that runs with the analyzer
keeps the calibration data for that specific piece of coax and then uses a
mathematical transformation to adjust out the effects of the coax.  Cannot
do that with the MFJ analyzers.

On another issue, it was not clear from your post, but understand that a
+/- 33 foot FCP is a 160 meter device only and the isolation transformer
for that is 20 bifilar turns, and you will need something in the order of
magnitude of 125 feet in the "L" to resonate.

For 80 meters ONLY, the FCP is +/- 16 feet, and the isolation transformer
is 15 bifilar turns to work with something in the order of  60-65 feet.
 You can use the 20 turn, but electrically it has a lot more leftover
inductance, and most likely runs with shorter L's for the "simple"
configuration.  If you were doing that, you would be the first "guinea pig"
on how to use the 160 IsoT on 80 meters.   Nobody has figured out how to do
a dual band FCP, nor can you just put them in parallel.  You might get an
impedance dip, but the field cancelling effect that makes an FCP work is
simply absent off-band, and the ground loss is back.

The "simple" configuration is the FCP, the isolation transformer and
something approximately a quarterwave L, whose length gets adjusted to
bring the zero reactance crossing point where you want it.   If you want to
get into the theory, there are more complex applications, like how to do a
4 square with FCPs, while not using any radials.  We are talking here about
the "simple" configuration.

The actual value of the resistance at zero reactance a given person gets
depends on the specifics of the "L" that you have up.  If you get the zero
reactance point right, significantly off-50 R values can be dealt with
using a series matching transformer of 50 ohm then 75 ohm, then 50 ohm coax
rest of the way, calculated by a little free program called SMC.EXE.   Most
often the basic shape of the L is dictated by available trees, staying
hidden, or..., very specific to the individual.  So we don't publish
"ideal" dimensions for the L.

The double dip is possible, but explaining why without a slide show of
EZNEC graphs ain't possible for us normal mortals.  Or it could just be an
effect of your specifics and the length of your coax.

I would like to know the specific dimensions of your L.

If you are getting  50 +j1 at 3654,  then the current wisdom is you need to
add length to force it down.  But we don't have 80 meter information on how
far down you can force it before the FCP starts to "argue with you" and
won't move any more.   Moving it from 3654 to 3535 is adding something like
4 and a half feet.

My current 160 meter antenna, up 90 out 105 over a 160 FCP,  has a "sort of
half-way decent" spot down around 1700, but it's nowhere close to
adjustable to 50 +j0.  It's also lossy, as the FCP has flipped out of its
cancellation mode.  This leads me to believe the upper dip is the one you
want to manage.

For the extended audience here, the concept is on W0UCE's web page  at
http://www.w0uce.net/K2AVantennas.html

Sorry about the OT.  We don't have an "FCP reflector".  Reflector
discussion has been entirely on TopBand.

73, Guy K2AV.

On Tue, Feb 28, 2012 at 6:51 PM, Jim Bennett  wrote:

> Well, crud - my fat fingers messed up the original post. That reading at
> 3.654 should have been R=50, X=1, SWR=1.0. I'll take the MFJ out to the
> antenna base and see what I get.
>
> On   Tuesday, Feb 28, 2012, at  Tuesday, 3:43 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
>
> > On 2/28/2012 2:22 PM, Jim Bennett wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I get TWO SWR
> >> nulls. Yes, two. One is at 3.461 and has R=35, X-0, and SWR of 1.3.
> >> The second null is at 3.654, R=0, X=1, SWR=1.0.
> >
> > You have something seriously wrong, 0+j1 ohms is a short circuit, or
> > extremely close to one.  I'm sure the SWR reading at that point is
> > bogus, the MFJ was not designed to operate into a short circuit.  In
> > fact, the apparent "short circuit" could be bogus, I've gotten some very
> > improbable results a few times with my MFJ.
> >
> > I'd suggest:
> >
> > 1.  Take your MFJ259 out to the feedpoint of the antenna and see what
> > you get.
> >
> > 2.  Put a dummy load at the antenna end of your coax run and measure the
> > impedance at the shack end.  It should be 50+j0 ohms everywhere

Re: [Elecraft] K3 For Sale on Ebay - Scam

2012-02-28 Thread Bob K6UJ
EBAY must have pulled the auction, doesnt show now

Bob
K6UJ




On Feb 28, 2012, at 3:10 PM, Robert Dorchuck W6VY wrote:

> Beware of item #170792771430 on eBay.  Same old scam of
> contact me direct.  It is a K3 (ser 5144), P3 and W2.
> 
> Bob  W6VY
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 macro to put ATU in norm/bypass mode

2012-02-28 Thread Wayne Burdick
 From a PC application.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Feb 28, 2012, at 5:13 PM, Bill wrote:

> I must be dumb - I don't get why you need a macro to turn the tuner on
> and off? There is a perfectly good switch for that already on the K3.
>
> Bill W2BLC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 macro to put ATU in norm/bypass mode

2012-02-28 Thread Bill
I must be dumb - I don't get why you need a macro to turn the tuner on 
and off? There is a perfectly good switch for that already on the K3.

Bill W2BLC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 macro to put ATU in norm/bypass mode

2012-02-28 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
While we're wishing, I'd hoped to have macros for when using my relay 
switched AL-811:

QSK: off, VOX: off, TX Dly: 012, PWR: 60W

And "Normal""

QSK: on, VOX: on, TX Dly: 008, PWR: 100W

Looks like the TX Dly might be do-able, Power certainly is, but not the 
QSK and VOX items.

73,

Nick, WA5BDU


On 2/28/2012 11:51 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
> While you're at it, please include control of the Sub RX RX Ant
> (RX Ant Hold).
>
> 73,
>
>  ... Joe, W4TV
>
>
>

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[Elecraft] K3/0 shipping status?

2012-02-28 Thread David F. Reed
I note the K3/0 is on the order page, but no shipping status is 
available yet (as far as I can tell).

Am I missing something, or is that not determined yet?

Thanks & 73 de Dave, W5SV
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Need Antenna Tuning Help

2012-02-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

I did a little chatting with Guy K2AV when he was starting to work on 
that project (W0UCE lives only a few miles from me), and I recall that 
changing the height above ground changed the behavior.
So if you do not have the lowest wire 8 feet above the ground, it will 
not be tuned properly.
Maybe Guy will comment, he frequently posts on this reflector.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/28/2012 5:22 PM, Jim Bennett wrote:
> I've got a K3 and a three month old KPA500. Trying to get 5BWAS; 80 meters is 
> my biggest hurdle. I put up an 80 meter Inverted L several months ago - prior 
> to getting the KPA500. The vertical part of the antenna is 40 feet in length. 
> I had been using two radials, about 14 inches above ground - small lot, 
> CC&R's, HOA, etc. The antenna worked fairly well with my K3 and the internal 
> tuner. I had done some pruning of the radials to get it resonant on 3.550. 
> The K3 tuner took care of the rest. Well, along came the KPA500 and as yet, 
> no KAT500. So I started looking at the antenna to see what I could do. I 
> opted to replace the two single radial wires with a K2AV Folded CounterPoise 
> (FCP). Not sure if this was a mistake or not. Everything I've read said that 
> the FCP approach on 80 / 160 meter Inverted L antennas would result in a 
> greatly improved signal. What has happened is that I cannot for the life of 
> me get this thing resonant around 3.520. And yes, I did build the isolation tr
 an
>   sformer, per the instructions.
>
> Here is what is happening and I am certainly perplexed. I'm using an MFJ-259B 
> meter, at the shack end, to take my readings. I get TWO SWR nulls. Yes, two. 
> One is at 3.461 and has R=35, X-0, and SWR of 1.3. The second null is at 
> 3.654, R=0, X=1, SWR=1.0. In an attempt to get the antenna resonant at 3.520 
> or so, I started adjusting the length of the antenna. Adding wire to it makes 
> the two "nulls" go down in frequency, as I would expect. If I instead shorten 
> the antenna wire, the "resonant frequencies" both go up. However, there comes 
> a point with both approaches where the change of frequency stops, but the SWR 
> goes up.
>
> As you can guess, I am NOT an antenna expert. Why do I get two different 
> resonant frequencies, separated by only 200 KHz?
>
> I've spent the better part of two days futzing around with this thing and am 
> about at my wit's end. I don't necessarily want to toss the entire FCP 
> assembly in the trash, and go back to the two radials, but this is not going 
> as I'd hoped! If someone on this list who has a good handle on wire antenna 
> tuning can give me some pointers and/or hints, off the list, I'd certainly 
> appreciate it. :-)
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Key Down Amps

2012-02-28 Thread David Gilbert

How did you somehow miss the point of my post?

Dave   AB7E



On 2/28/2012 4:04 PM, n...@n5ge.com wrote:
> Dave,
>
> It would be an unwise business decision for Elecraft to build or sell 
> monitors.
> There's way too much competition in that field, and too many American 
> companies
> who have the slaves of other countries building them.
>
> 73,
> Tom
> Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
> ARRL Lifetime Member
> QCWA Lifetime Member
>
> "The marvel of all history is the patience with which men and women
> submit to burdens unnecessarily laid upon them by their governments."
> -- George Washington --
>
> On Fri, 24 Feb 2012 19:36:01 -0700, David Gilbert
> wrote:
>
>> I'm surprised we haven't seen requests asking Elecraft to make a monitor
>> as a companion for the P3, or an Elecraft  keyboard for digital modes.
>> Some people either simply value form over function and damn the cost, or
>> they have no comprehension of the effect of economy of scale on price
>> versus performance.
>>
>> Dave  AB7E
>>
> [snip]
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Need Antenna Tuning Help

2012-02-28 Thread Jim Bennett
Well, crud - my fat fingers messed up the original post. That reading at 3.654 
should have been R=50, X=1, SWR=1.0. I'll take the MFJ out to the antenna base 
and see what I get.

On   Tuesday, Feb 28, 2012, at  Tuesday, 3:43 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

> On 2/28/2012 2:22 PM, Jim Bennett wrote:
> 
>> 
>> I get TWO SWR
>> nulls. Yes, two. One is at 3.461 and has R=35, X-0, and SWR of 1.3.
>> The second null is at 3.654, R=0, X=1, SWR=1.0.
> 
> You have something seriously wrong, 0+j1 ohms is a short circuit, or 
> extremely close to one.  I'm sure the SWR reading at that point is 
> bogus, the MFJ was not designed to operate into a short circuit.  In 
> fact, the apparent "short circuit" could be bogus, I've gotten some very 
> improbable results a few times with my MFJ.
> 
> I'd suggest:
> 
> 1.  Take your MFJ259 out to the feedpoint of the antenna and see what 
> you get.
> 
> 2.  Put a dummy load at the antenna end of your coax run and measure the 
> impedance at the shack end.  It should be 50+j0 ohms everywhere [within 
> reason]
> 
> 3.  Check the SWR with your K3 with the tuner in bypass at 3501 and up 
> the band a few places and draw a graph of the readings.  Keep the power 
> down, you can't really hurt the K3, it'll quit making RF if it gets 
> really annoyed.  If the null at 3461 is really the resonant point of 
> your antenna, you should see the SWR climbing rapidly as you go up the band.
> 
> When really weird things happen in conflict with known physics, it's 
> almost always a simple error in the system or measurement configuration. 
>  I'd look carefully at the wiring.  Let us all know what you find, I'd 
> like to write it into my notebook for future ref.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
> - www.cqp.org
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 For Sale on Ebay - Scam

2012-02-28 Thread Gary Marklund
I just reported the listing to eBay. Don't expect it to be there long.

73,

Gary KJ7RT
Sun City, AZ
Fists #14460  NAQCC #3709



On Tue, Feb 28, 2012 at 4:10 PM, Robert Dorchuck W6VY wrote:

> Beware of item #170792771430 on eBay.  Same old scam of
> contact me direct.  It is a K3 (ser 5144), P3 and W2.
>
> Bob  W6VY
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Need Antenna Tuning Help

2012-02-28 Thread Fred Jensen
On 2/28/2012 2:22 PM, Jim Bennett wrote:

>
> I get TWO SWR
> nulls. Yes, two. One is at 3.461 and has R=35, X-0, and SWR of 1.3.
> The second null is at 3.654, R=0, X=1, SWR=1.0.

You have something seriously wrong, 0+j1 ohms is a short circuit, or 
extremely close to one.  I'm sure the SWR reading at that point is 
bogus, the MFJ was not designed to operate into a short circuit.  In 
fact, the apparent "short circuit" could be bogus, I've gotten some very 
improbable results a few times with my MFJ.

I'd suggest:

1.  Take your MFJ259 out to the feedpoint of the antenna and see what 
you get.

2.  Put a dummy load at the antenna end of your coax run and measure the 
impedance at the shack end.  It should be 50+j0 ohms everywhere [within 
reason]

3.  Check the SWR with your K3 with the tuner in bypass at 3501 and up 
the band a few places and draw a graph of the readings.  Keep the power 
down, you can't really hurt the K3, it'll quit making RF if it gets 
really annoyed.  If the null at 3461 is really the resonant point of 
your antenna, you should see the SWR climbing rapidly as you go up the band.

When really weird things happen in conflict with known physics, it's 
almost always a simple error in the system or measurement configuration. 
  I'd look carefully at the wiring.  Let us all know what you find, I'd 
like to write it into my notebook for future ref.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org


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Re: [Elecraft] Key Down Amps

2012-02-28 Thread David Bunte
Perhaps I am being naive... but I never, for a moment, thought Dave was
suggesting that Elecraft do any such thing.  I think his post was more a
commentary on some people wanting Elecraft to do everything, and the likely
result that some people would pay more for a given monitor or keyboard, or
whatever, if it had the Elecraft name on it.  I also think we have probably
beaten this thread into the ground.

-Dave-
K9FN

On Tue, Feb 28, 2012 at 6:04 PM,  wrote:

> Dave,
>
> It would be an unwise business decision for Elecraft to build or sell
> monitors.
> There's way too much competition in that field, and too many American
> companies
> who have the slaves of other countries building them.
>
> 73,
> Tom
> Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
> ARRL Lifetime Member
> QCWA Lifetime Member
>
> "The marvel of all history is the patience with which men and women
> submit to burdens unnecessarily laid upon them by their governments."
> -- George Washington --
>
> On Fri, 24 Feb 2012 19:36:01 -0700, David Gilbert <
> xda...@cis-broadband.com>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >I'm surprised we haven't seen requests asking Elecraft to make a monitor
> >as a companion for the P3, or an Elecraft  keyboard for digital modes.
> >Some people either simply value form over function and damn the cost, or
> >they have no comprehension of the effect of economy of scale on price
> >versus performance.
> >
> >Dave  AB7E
> >
> [snip]
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 For Sale on Ebay - Scam

2012-02-28 Thread Tony Estep
On Tue, Feb 28, 2012 at 5:10 PM, Robert Dorchuck W6VY  wrote:
> Beware of item #170792771430 on eBay.  Same old scam...
==
For a little chuckle, note the "Item Specifics" box: it's for a
Diamond Rio bluegrass album. Apparently this was a machine-generated
listing built on info from some other legitimate listing.

Tony KT0NY




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[Elecraft] K3 For Sale on Ebay - Scam

2012-02-28 Thread Robert Dorchuck W6VY
Beware of item #170792771430 on eBay.  Same old scam of
contact me direct.  It is a K3 (ser 5144), P3 and W2.

Bob  W6VY

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Need Antenna Tuning Help

2012-02-28 Thread Fred Townsend
Jim:
You need to pay attention to your numbers. "R=0, X=1, SWR=1.0" is a short
circuit with a short piece of wire. While it is possible to have multiple
resonances and multiple nulls this not the case here. You have a major
problem. Perhaps something is breaking down or perhaps you have made a
construction error. Recheck everything. Use a simple ohm meter to check for
shorts and continuity. If that doesn't find your problem prove your
transmission line by putting a 50 ohm dummy load at end of your coax
(antenna end) and check with your MFJ259. It should say 50 j0. If it does
inspect  your antenna carefully. Make sure your insulators insulate.
Whatever you do don't hook up the KPA500 until you fix this problem. Let us
know how you come out.
73
Fred, AE6QL  

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Bennett
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 2:23 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Need Antenna Tuning Help

I've got a K3 and a three month old KPA500. Trying to get 5BWAS; 80 meters
is my biggest hurdle. I put up an 80 meter Inverted L several months ago -
prior to getting the KPA500. The vertical part of the antenna is 40 feet in
length. I had been using two radials, about 14 inches above ground - small
lot, CC&R's, HOA, etc. The antenna worked fairly well with my K3 and the
internal tuner. I had done some pruning of the radials to get it resonant on
3.550. The K3 tuner took care of the rest. Well, along came the KPA500 and
as yet, no KAT500. So I started looking at the antenna to see what I could
do. I opted to replace the two single radial wires with a K2AV Folded
CounterPoise (FCP). Not sure if this was a mistake or not. Everything I've
read said that the FCP approach on 80 / 160 meter Inverted L antennas would
result in a greatly improved signal. What has happened is that I cannot for
the life of me get this thing resonant around 3.520. And yes, I did build
the isolation tran  sformer, per the instructions. 


Here is what is happening and I am certainly perplexed. I'm using an
MFJ-259B meter, at the shack end, to take my readings. I get TWO SWR nulls.
Yes, two. One is at 3.461 and has R=35, X-0, and SWR of 1.3. The second null
is at 3.654, R=0, X=1, SWR=1.0. In an attempt to get the antenna resonant at
3.520 or so, I started adjusting the length of the antenna. Adding wire to
it makes the two "nulls" go down in frequency, as I would expect. If I
instead shorten the antenna wire, the "resonant frequencies" both go up.
However, there comes a point with both approaches where the change of
frequency stops, but the SWR goes up.

As you can guess, I am NOT an antenna expert. Why do I get two different
resonant frequencies, separated by only 200 KHz?

I've spent the better part of two days futzing around with this thing and am
about at my wit's end. I don't necessarily want to toss the entire FCP
assembly in the trash, and go back to the two radials, but this is not going
as I'd hoped! If someone on this list who has a good handle on wire antenna
tuning can give me some pointers and/or hints, off the list, I'd certainly
appreciate it. :-)

Regards, Jim / W6JHB

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Re: [Elecraft] Key Down Amps

2012-02-28 Thread n5ge
Dave,

It would be an unwise business decision for Elecraft to build or sell monitors.
There's way too much competition in that field, and too many American companies
who have the slaves of other countries building them.

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member

"The marvel of all history is the patience with which men and women
submit to burdens unnecessarily laid upon them by their governments."
-- George Washington --

On Fri, 24 Feb 2012 19:36:01 -0700, David Gilbert 
wrote:

>
>I'm surprised we haven't seen requests asking Elecraft to make a monitor 
>as a companion for the P3, or an Elecraft  keyboard for digital modes.  
>Some people either simply value form over function and damn the cost, or 
>they have no comprehension of the effect of economy of scale on price 
>versus performance.
>
>Dave  AB7E
>
[snip]

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[Elecraft] K3 missing right channel in front phones

2012-02-28 Thread DK2GZ
Hello Fred,
 
I had a similar problem with the front socket. Search for headphone socket  
in the archive.
 
First we replaced the front socket, not an easy task, but still the  same.
Then I thought I had a problem with the rear socket, but the problem was  
the AUX-cable for the KPA500.
Are you have also a KPA500 connected? If this is true, disconnect the  
AUX-cable, test the K3 and then all is fine now, reconnect the AUX-cable  again.
 
73 de Harry,  DK2GZ
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Re: [Elecraft] A CW Question for the group

2012-02-28 Thread n5ge
RC,

My opinion is that at first the filters narrower than 400Hz would be too much
for you at the early stage of seriously working CW.  Later you could add
narrower filters if you thought needed them.  It all depends on what YOU want to
do with CW.  

When I was a novice in 1976 I used a Heathkit 400Hz filter for CW, which was the
only mode we were allowed to use.  It made working CW much more pleasant,
because the Novice portion of the bands were very crowded back then.

I now use the 5 pole 250Hz filter for almost all of my CW operation.  I have had
both the 200Hz 8 pole filter and the 5 pole 250Hz filter, and in my opinion the
5 pole 250Hz is the better of the two.  I also have the 8 pole 2.8, 8 pole 1000
and 8 pole 400Hz filters in both the main and sub RX's.  The RX also has the 5
pole 250Hz filter.  However if I were to load up with filters again I would only
have a 400Hz 8 pole in the sub RX for CW.  The 250Hz filter is too narrow when
working split, because I want to be able to hear more spectrum on the frequency
where the DX is QSX.  I sometimes use the 1000Hz filter in the sub when working
split also.

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member

"Farmers have learned that rotating crops improves
productivity and saves the land.  Voters should 
improve productivity and save OUR LAND by 
rotating politicians at the ballot box."
-- Otis Mukinfus - 2008, 2010, 2012 --

On Fri, 24 Feb 2012 19:00:52 -0600, "Robert 'RC' Conley" 
wrote:

>I am not a CW op! I work mostly QRP phone in contests. Current
>configuration is K3/10 w/2.7khz filter . I wish to enhance it with 2.1khz,
>1.8khz and I intend to purchase P3 and CW filter for use with my K3/P3. I
>am wondering which one would be MOST USEFUL FOR ME... 8 pole 400hz or 250hz
>or 5 pole 500hz or 200hz?  My CW is very RUSTY but I wish to improve it. I
>need help help arriving at this decision. So I'm asking the CW op's in the
>group. Thanks
>RC KC5WA

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Re: [Elecraft] k3 frontphone jack

2012-02-28 Thread John_N1JM
I assume you checked the headphone plug and cable?

John N1JM

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] KAT1 with EFHW?

2012-02-28 Thread Matt Maguire
If the KAT1 can't handle an EFHW, then you could easily knock up something like 
this:
http://www.spirat.com.au/vk5zvs/pic49.htm

Or you could even leave off the cap and use the KAT1 to tune it (ie. just use 
the toroid as an auto transformer to reduce the impedence to within the range 
of the KAT1)

73, Matt VK2ACL


On 29/02/2012, at 8:40 AM, Curt wrote:

> I am planning a trip to "bush" in Ontario this spring, contemplating 
> bringing my K1 which has a KAT1.  Last year used a different transmitter, a 
> simple EFHW tuner, 34' wire on 20M ( and surprisingly on 30M ) with good 
> success.  With little experience using the KAT1, from the manual it seems it 
> isn't capable of dealing with high impedance of an EFHW.  Has anyone used 
> the KAT1 with this type antenna with good results?  Does anyone know the 
> maximum impedance the KAT1 can deal with? 
> 
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[Elecraft] OT: Need Antenna Tuning Help

2012-02-28 Thread Jim Bennett
I've got a K3 and a three month old KPA500. Trying to get 5BWAS; 80 meters is 
my biggest hurdle. I put up an 80 meter Inverted L several months ago - prior 
to getting the KPA500. The vertical part of the antenna is 40 feet in length. I 
had been using two radials, about 14 inches above ground - small lot, CC&R's, 
HOA, etc. The antenna worked fairly well with my K3 and the internal tuner. I 
had done some pruning of the radials to get it resonant on 3.550. The K3 tuner 
took care of the rest. Well, along came the KPA500 and as yet, no KAT500. So I 
started looking at the antenna to see what I could do. I opted to replace the 
two single radial wires with a K2AV Folded CounterPoise (FCP). Not sure if this 
was a mistake or not. Everything I've read said that the FCP approach on 80 / 
160 meter Inverted L antennas would result in a greatly improved signal. What 
has happened is that I cannot for the life of me get this thing resonant around 
3.520. And yes, I did build the isolation tran
 sformer, per the instructions. 

Here is what is happening and I am certainly perplexed. I'm using an MFJ-259B 
meter, at the shack end, to take my readings. I get TWO SWR nulls. Yes, two. 
One is at 3.461 and has R=35, X-0, and SWR of 1.3. The second null is at 3.654, 
R=0, X=1, SWR=1.0. In an attempt to get the antenna resonant at 3.520 or so, I 
started adjusting the length of the antenna. Adding wire to it makes the two 
"nulls" go down in frequency, as I would expect. If I instead shorten the 
antenna wire, the "resonant frequencies" both go up. However, there comes a 
point with both approaches where the change of frequency stops, but the SWR 
goes up.

As you can guess, I am NOT an antenna expert. Why do I get two different 
resonant frequencies, separated by only 200 KHz?

I've spent the better part of two days futzing around with this thing and am 
about at my wit's end. I don't necessarily want to toss the entire FCP assembly 
in the trash, and go back to the two radials, but this is not going as I'd 
hoped! If someone on this list who has a good handle on wire antenna tuning can 
give me some pointers and/or hints, off the list, I'd certainly appreciate it. 
:-)

Regards, Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 frontphone jack

2012-02-28 Thread Mike K2MK
Hi Susan,

What are the symptoms. If the transmitter is dropping out it could be as
simple as low VOX gain or low mic gain. Or an intermittent connection in the
microphone plug. Describe your microphone and the various K3 settings. All
of these details are important.

73,
Mike K2MK



ussv dharma wrote
> 
> sent rig back to mfr with complaint of intermitent on front phone
> jack.came backstill same problemanyone else with thisproblem?
> 
> If you don't change direction you'll arrive where you're headed!Sent from
> my iPad
> 
> 


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[Elecraft] [K1] KAT1 with EFHW?

2012-02-28 Thread Curt
I am planning a trip to "bush" in Ontario this spring, contemplating 
bringing my K1 which has a KAT1.  Last year used a different transmitter, a 
simple EFHW tuner, 34' wire on 20M ( and surprisingly on 30M ) with good 
success.  With little experience using the KAT1, from the manual it seems it 
isn't capable of dealing with high impedance of an EFHW.  Has anyone used 
the KAT1 with this type antenna with good results?  Does anyone know the 
maximum impedance the KAT1 can deal with? 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Sn ~700 need upgraded filter crystals?

2012-02-28 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
I did all the A to B and other mods all in the same month, but one at a
time, so I could see what they did.  The crystal swap made quite a
difference in mine.  And changing them out is the only way you'll know if
it helps.  Doesn't help much if you'd like to know whether it's worth it on
YOUR K2 before you do it.  73, Guy.

On Tue, Feb 28, 2012 at 12:21 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Your BFO crystals are OK - there was no change.
> With the older crystals - sometimes they made fine filters, it was
> something like "the luck of the draw" because the motional inductance
> was not specified.
> I would generally recommend you change them, but as you say, if it ain't
> broke, don't fix it.
> In every case where I have changed the crystals for an upgrade customer,
> there has been an improvement.  When you change the crystals on the KSB2
> board, that is a good time to change the capacitors that control the
> filter bandwidth - the caps are easier to change while the crystals are
> removed.
>
> 73,
> Donn W3FPR
>
> On 2/28/2012 12:06 PM, kf4ueo wrote:
> > I have an early K2 with K2SSB that has been mostly upgraded to Rev B. I
> don't
> > have any issues with my K2 but have always wondered over the years if I
> need
> > to upgrade the filter/BFO/SSB crystals. I have tended to think however
> "if
> > it aint broke..." etc. I have done the flatness SSB mod. Is it worth it?
> >
> >
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[Elecraft] K2/10 or K2/100 Wanted

2012-02-28 Thread Gene N4FZ
Looking for a K2. Thanks! Gene N4FZ

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[Elecraft] k3 frontphone jack

2012-02-28 Thread Ussvdharma
sent rig back to mfr with complaint of intermitent on front phone jack.came 
backstill same problemanyone else with thisproblem?

If you don't change direction you'll arrive where you're headed!Sent from my 
iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 + TS-870SAT + MICROHAM

2012-02-28 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

The KPA-500 is just fine with the "SS" (transistor switching) output
of microKEYER II and Digikeyer II.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 2/28/2012 3:15 PM, Francisco "Siso" Hennessey-HK3W- wrote:
> Hello I just bought an ampifier KPA500. I have 3 Kenwood radios model
> TS-870SAT, TS-480SAT and TS-570, I want to confirm with your technical
> support if both Microham Digikeyer 2 and Micro Keyer 2 are just needed to
> key my amplifier as stated on the operations manual.
>
>
>
> Here's the explanation taken from the User's Manual of Microham products:
>
>
>
> (7) PA PTT: PTT output for Power Amplifier
>
> Ground during transmit, TIP - Signal, SHELL - Ground
>
> If the jumper is in the SS position, the switching transistor (open
> collector) is connected to the PA PTT jack. The transistor can switch up to
> 45V/0.8A. This position is appropriate for modern Power Amplifiers with
> electronic keying. Check the manual of your amplifier to be sure the power
> requirements do not exceed the transistor rating. If the requirements exceed
> transistor rating set the jumper to the RE position - this position connects
> the relay contact to the output jack. Maximum rating for the relay is: 48V
> AC/DC @ 1A.
>
>
>
> Any help will be appreciated
>
> Regards
>
> Siso, HK3W
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Flashing "F" mode indicator

2012-02-28 Thread Wayne Burdick
No; it's covered on page 103. I neglected to put it on the reference  
page.

Wayne

On Feb 28, 2012, at 12:25 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote:

> So it's a secret?
>
> On Tue, 28 Feb 2012, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>
>> Page 84 explains what all of the flashing annunciators mean.
>> Unfortunately (I just discovered), the flashing 'F' is not covered in
>> this list.
>>
>> Wayne
>>
>>
>> On Feb 28, 2012, at 12:01 PM, Chris Kimball wrote:
>>
>>> Is there a table available of special signals from various areas of
>>> the K2
>>> screen, particularly when all the options are present?  I know some
>>> of them,
>>> but get panicked when a seemingly strange one pops up.  In this
>>> case, I
>>> wasn't operating, just checking SWRs with a new balun.
>>>
>>> Chris
>
> -- 
> Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com
> BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 =  
> latte

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Re: [Elecraft] Flashing "F" mode indicator

2012-02-28 Thread Hisashi T Fujinaka
So it's a secret?

On Tue, 28 Feb 2012, Wayne Burdick wrote:

> Page 84 explains what all of the flashing annunciators mean.
> Unfortunately (I just discovered), the flashing 'F' is not covered in
> this list.
>
> Wayne
>
>
> On Feb 28, 2012, at 12:01 PM, Chris Kimball wrote:
>
>> Is there a table available of special signals from various areas of
>> the K2
>> screen, particularly when all the options are present?  I know some
>> of them,
>> but get panicked when a seemingly strange one pops up.  In this
>> case, I
>> wasn't operating, just checking SWRs with a new balun.
>>
>> Chris

-- 
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BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Ultimatic mode?

2012-02-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Unfortunately, Ultimatic has not been added.  It is on my wish list for 
both the K3 and the KX3.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/28/2012 3:07 PM, Steve - KY7K wrote:
> Does the KX3 include Ultimatic keying mode?
> I was thinking of adding the KXPD3 key to my order but don't want to do it if 
> I will need an external keyer to get Ultimatic.
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
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[Elecraft] KPA500 + TS-870SAT + MICROHAM

2012-02-28 Thread Francisco "Siso" Hennessey-HK3W-
Hello I just bought an ampifier KPA500. I have 3 Kenwood radios model
TS-870SAT, TS-480SAT and TS-570, I want to confirm with your technical
support if both Microham Digikeyer 2 and Micro Keyer 2 are just needed to
key my amplifier as stated on the operations manual.

 

Here's the explanation taken from the User's Manual of Microham products:

 

(7) PA PTT: PTT output for Power Amplifier

Ground during transmit, TIP - Signal, SHELL - Ground 

If the jumper is in the SS position, the switching transistor (open
collector) is connected to the PA PTT jack. The transistor can switch up to
45V/0.8A. This position is appropriate for modern Power Amplifiers with
electronic keying. Check the manual of your amplifier to be sure the power
requirements do not exceed the transistor rating. If the requirements exceed
transistor rating set the jumper to the RE position - this position connects
the relay contact to the output jack. Maximum rating for the relay is: 48V
AC/DC @ 1A.

 

Any help will be appreciated

Regards

Siso, HK3W

 

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[Elecraft] KX3 Ultimatic mode?

2012-02-28 Thread Steve - KY7K
Does the KX3 include Ultimatic keying mode? 
I was thinking of adding the KXPD3 key to my order but don't want to do it if I 
will need an external keyer to get Ultimatic.
Thanks in advance.

Steve - KY7K







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Re: [Elecraft] Flashing "F" mode indicator

2012-02-28 Thread Wayne Burdick
Page 84 explains what all of the flashing annunciators mean.  
Unfortunately (I just discovered), the flashing 'F' is not covered in  
this list.

Wayne


On Feb 28, 2012, at 12:01 PM, Chris Kimball wrote:

> Is there a table available of special signals from various areas of  
> the K2
> screen, particularly when all the options are present?  I know some  
> of them,
> but get panicked when a seemingly strange one pops up.  In this  
> case, I
> wasn't operating, just checking SWRs with a new balun.
>
> Chris
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Flashing-F-mode-indicator-tp7325814p7326817.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Flashing "F" mode indicator

2012-02-28 Thread Chris Kimball


Thanks, Wayne!

Is there a table available of special signals from various areas of the K2
screen, particularly when all the options are present?  I know some of them,
but get panicked when a seemingly strange one pops up.  In this case, I
wasn't operating, just checking SWRs with a new balun.

Chris

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 macro to put ATU in norm/bypass mode

2012-02-28 Thread Wayne Burdick
QSL.

Wayne


On Feb 28, 2012, at 9:51 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

>
> While you're at it, please include control of the Sub RX RX Ant
> (RX Ant Hold).
>
> 73,
>
>   ... Joe, W4TV
>
>
> On 2/28/2012 12:26 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>> This will require a new command. I've added it to the firmware list.
>>
>> tnx
>> Wayne
>> N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 shipping status update

2012-02-28 Thread Keith Heimbold
Eric,

Thanks for the update!  

So stoked!!

Keith
AG6AZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Feb 28, 2012, at 10:15 AM, "Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft" 
 wrote:

> We have just updated our shipping status page with the following 
> information:
> ---
> KX3 shipments are estimated to begin mid-March 2012 and can be ordered 
> on our secure order form.
> We are waiting for final delivery of several KX3 components before 
> production shipping begins.
> 
> Assembled and Kit KX3s are built on parallel production lines. Orders 
> for each type will be shipped in the same order they are received.
> 
> We will email customers shortly before their KX3 is ready to ship to 
> confirm their order information.
> Credit cards will not be charged until product ships, unless otherwise 
> instructed by the customer.
> 
> You may add items to your KX3 order at any time via our secure order 
> form (or by email to sa...@elecraft.com or by direct phone call.) Please 
> reference your original order confirmation number and your callsign (if 
> any) when adding items or changing your order
> ---
> 
> 73,
> 
> -- 
> Eric
> ---
> www.elecraft.com
> 
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[Elecraft] KX3 shipping status update

2012-02-28 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
We have just updated our shipping status page with the following 
information:
---
KX3 shipments are estimated to begin mid-March 2012 and can be ordered 
on our secure order form.
We are waiting for final delivery of several KX3 components before 
production shipping begins.

Assembled and Kit KX3s are built on parallel production lines. Orders 
for each type will be shipped in the same order they are received.

We will email customers shortly before their KX3 is ready to ship to 
confirm their order information.
Credit cards will not be charged until product ships, unless otherwise 
instructed by the customer.

You may add items to your KX3 order at any time via our secure order 
form (or by email to sa...@elecraft.com or by direct phone call.) Please 
reference your original order confirmation number and your callsign (if 
any) when adding items or changing your order
---

73,

-- 
Eric
---
www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Serial Port on K3

2012-02-28 Thread Jim Brown
On 2/27/2012 8:48 PM, n...@aol.com wrote:
> So, is the K3 serial port supposed to crap out when the rig's voltage
> supply isn't optimum?
>   

Several questions.  First, how are you powering the rig?  Two wires 
straight to the battery?  What conductor size?  How long? Did you have 
two wires running to the battery, or were you using chassis as return?  
The latter is a recipe for disaster.

  How were you powering the computer?

What was the "good antenna?"  Was it a mobile antenna or an antenna 
rigged separately from the vehicle, like a dipole strung in trees?  
Thanks to paint between sections of the body, the chassis bonding in 
many cars ranges from awful to non-existent, and antennas attached to a 
car use the chassis as return for antenna current.  This current can 
wreak havoc with any electronics in the vehicle.  Even a ground-mounted 
vertical close to the vehicle can do that too.

What was the serial cable? Was it twisted pair or parallel wires inside 
a shield? Parallel wires inside a shield are very subject to the strong 
magnetic fields produced by antenna current.  Twisted pair provides FAR 
better immunity from RFI.  See

http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf

for details of how to build a serial cable with far better RF immunity, 
and other advice on avoiding RFI problems in a mobile installation. 
There's also detail about that cable in 
http://audiosystemsgroup.com/HamInterfacing.pdf

73, Jim Brown K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 macro to put ATU in norm/bypass mode

2012-02-28 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

While you're at it, please include control of the Sub RX RX Ant
(RX Ant Hold).

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 2/28/2012 12:26 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> This will require a new command. I've added it to the firmware list.
>
> tnx
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
> On Feb 28, 2012, at 9:22 AM, Arie Kleingeld PA3A wrote:
>
>> Wayne,
>>
>> I sure would like to do this with the RX antennas. Please?
>>
>> 73
>> Arie PA3A
>>
>> Op 28-2-2012 16:52, Wayne Burdick schreef:
>>> Someone recently asked me how to use switch macros to definitively
>>> set
>>> the ATU to normal or bypass mode. Using a switch-emulation command
>>> just alternates between the two--you don't know what the ATU's state
>>> is without looking at the display icon. Here are two unambiguous
>>> command sequences:
>>>
>>>  MN023;MP001;MN255;  bypasses the ATU
>>>
>>>  MN023;MP002;MN255;  puts it inline
>>>
>>> This is a good illustration of the use of the MN and MP commands
>>> (menu
>>> access). For further details see the K3 Programmer's Reference.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Wayne
>>> N6KR
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 macro to put ATU in norm/bypass mode

2012-02-28 Thread Wayne Burdick
This will require a new command. I've added it to the firmware list.

tnx
Wayne
N6KR

On Feb 28, 2012, at 9:22 AM, Arie Kleingeld PA3A wrote:

> Wayne,
>
> I sure would like to do this with the RX antennas. Please?
>
> 73
> Arie PA3A
>
> Op 28-2-2012 16:52, Wayne Burdick schreef:
>> Someone recently asked me how to use switch macros to definitively  
>> set
>> the ATU to normal or bypass mode. Using a switch-emulation command
>> just alternates between the two--you don't know what the ATU's state
>> is without looking at the display icon. Here are two unambiguous
>> command sequences:
>>
>> MN023;MP001;MN255;  bypasses the ATU
>>
>> MN023;MP002;MN255;  puts it inline
>>
>> This is a good illustration of the use of the MN and MP commands  
>> (menu
>> access). For further details see the K3 Programmer's Reference.
>>
>> 73,
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 macro to put ATU in norm/bypass mode

2012-02-28 Thread iain macdonnell - N6ML
How about a definite way to switch "RX ANT" on/off ? D'oh! Arie beat me to it.

I think there are a few others .. Noise Reduction, perhaps? I really
need to make a list ;)

~iain / N6ML


On Tue, Feb 28, 2012 at 7:52 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> Someone recently asked me how to use switch macros to definitively set
> the ATU to normal or bypass mode. Using a switch-emulation command
> just alternates between the two--you don't know what the ATU's state
> is without looking at the display icon. Here are two unambiguous
> command sequences:
>
>    MN023;MP001;MN255;  bypasses the ATU
>
>    MN023;MP002;MN255;  puts it inline
>
> This is a good illustration of the use of the MN and MP commands (menu
> access). For further details see the K3 Programmer's Reference.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 macro to put ATU in norm/bypass mode

2012-02-28 Thread Arie Kleingeld PA3A
Wayne,

I sure would like to do this with the RX antennas. Please?

73
Arie PA3A

Op 28-2-2012 16:52, Wayne Burdick schreef:
> Someone recently asked me how to use switch macros to definitively set
> the ATU to normal or bypass mode. Using a switch-emulation command
> just alternates between the two--you don't know what the ATU's state
> is without looking at the display icon. Here are two unambiguous
> command sequences:
>
>  MN023;MP001;MN255;  bypasses the ATU
>
>  MN023;MP002;MN255;  puts it inline
>
> This is a good illustration of the use of the MN and MP commands (menu
> access). For further details see the K3 Programmer's Reference.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Sn ~700 need upgraded filter crystals?

2012-02-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Your BFO crystals are OK - there was no change.
With the older crystals - sometimes they made fine filters, it was 
something like "the luck of the draw" because the motional inductance 
was not specified.
I would generally recommend you change them, but as you say, if it ain't 
broke, don't fix it.
In every case where I have changed the crystals for an upgrade customer, 
there has been an improvement.  When you change the crystals on the KSB2 
board, that is a good time to change the capacitors that control the 
filter bandwidth - the caps are easier to change while the crystals are 
removed.

73,
Donn W3FPR

On 2/28/2012 12:06 PM, kf4ueo wrote:
> I have an early K2 with K2SSB that has been mostly upgraded to Rev B. I don't
> have any issues with my K2 but have always wondered over the years if I need
> to upgrade the filter/BFO/SSB crystals. I have tended to think however "if
> it aint broke..." etc. I have done the flatness SSB mod. Is it worth it?
>
>
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[Elecraft] K2 Sn ~700 need upgraded filter crystals?

2012-02-28 Thread kf4ueo
I have an early K2 with K2SSB that has been mostly upgraded to Rev B. I don't
have any issues with my K2 but have always wondered over the years if I need
to upgrade the filter/BFO/SSB crystals. I have tended to think however "if
it aint broke..." etc. I have done the flatness SSB mod. Is it worth it?

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[Elecraft] K3 macro to put ATU in norm/bypass mode

2012-02-28 Thread Wayne Burdick
Someone recently asked me how to use switch macros to definitively set  
the ATU to normal or bypass mode. Using a switch-emulation command  
just alternates between the two--you don't know what the ATU's state  
is without looking at the display icon. Here are two unambiguous  
command sequences:

MN023;MP001;MN255;  bypasses the ATU

MN023;MP002;MN255;  puts it inline

This is a good illustration of the use of the MN and MP commands (menu  
access). For further details see the K3 Programmer's Reference.

73,
Wayne
N6KR
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Re: [Elecraft] Flashing "F" mode indicator

2012-02-28 Thread Wayne Burdick
Hi Chris,

You've gotten the K2 into "fast-play" mode, which allows one-tap  
message play with a subset of the numeric keypad switches. (Normally  
you have to tap MSG first.)

Getting into fast-play mode requires that PF1 or PF2 be assigned to  
the "FPon" menu entry. You then hold PF1 or PF2 to turn fast-play on/ 
off. Try holding each of these switches to see which one turns fast- 
play back off. Then re-assign the switch to some other menu entry --  
unless you plan to use fast-play.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Feb 28, 2012, at 7:30 AM, Chris Kimball wrote:

> Somehow, I've pushed a wrong button, causing a flashing. capital "F"  
> to
> appear alternatively with the operating mode "c".  Hopefully, the K2  
> isn't
> about to self-destruct.
>
> My K2 is S/N 4913 with a lot of options.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris
> WB4WZR
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Flashing-F-mode-indicator-tp7325814p7325814.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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[Elecraft] Flashing "F" mode indicator

2012-02-28 Thread Chris Kimball
Somehow, I've pushed a wrong button, causing a flashing. capital "F" to
appear alternatively with the operating mode "c".  Hopefully, the K2 isn't
about to self-destruct.

My K2 is S/N 4913 with a lot of options.

Thanks,

Chris
WB4WZR

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[Elecraft] K3 missing right channel in front phones

2012-02-28 Thread Fred KE7FB
I have been using the phones on my K3 for several weeks now.  Yesterday I
plugged my Yamaha CM500 into the rear stereo and mic connections for the
first time. Testing only the phones, everything worked properly. This
morning I return the phones (using the proper adapter) to the front phones
plug to find the right ear is dead.  I have checked to see that the CONFIG
SPKR+PH is no and SPKRS=1.  

Fred

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Block diagram

2012-02-28 Thread 須崎 純一

I appreciate the Block Diagram disclosed in the homepage.
The name of active device in each block is also required in the application 
form of changing JA station license.
Thanks again and hope the diagram more informed.
 
73, Jun, JI1TLL

> From: ji1...@jarl.com
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 00:17:47 +0900
> CC: k...@cruzio.com
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Block diagram
> 
> 
> Bob-san & Wayne-san
> 
> Thanks for replies.
> 
> I hope to download the diagram including the 2m module part. 
> 
> 73, Jun, JI1TLL
> 
> > From: k...@cruzio.com
> > To: ji1...@jarl.com
> > Subject: RE: [Elecraft]  KX3 Block diagram
> > Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 10:29:59 -0800
> > 
> > Jun-san,
> > 
> > Hai. It is completed and will be submitted soon.
> > 
> > 73 de Bob, K6XX
> > 
> > k...@elecraft.com
> >   
> > 
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> > > [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of ?? ??
> > > Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 6:23 AM
> > > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > > Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 Block diagram
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > In Japan, a block diagram of transmission system
> > > is required to add new equipment to my registered line-up.
> > > Available before launching KX-3
> > > commercially?
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > 73, Jun, JI1TLL
> > > 
> > > 
> > > __
> > > Elecraft mailing list
> > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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Re: [Elecraft] Serial Port on K3

2012-02-28 Thread Jim Rhodes
Actually you don't know if the problem is with the rig or the serial port
on the computer. One or the other is out of spec as IIRC an rs232 port
should respond at +/- 9 volts. If you have a scope handy you might sniff
out the signal voltages on the data lines and see what the swing is.

Jim K0XU Sent from my Xoom tablet
On Feb 27, 2012 11:04 PM,  wrote:

> Saturday, I was preparing my mobile station for the NCQP on Sunday. I was
> using external power
> to my K3 from a fully charged AGM battery. Running 50 watts into a good
> antenna, everything seemed
> okay; I made a lengthy 40M CW contact and next hooked up my laptop for
> logging. That's where I ran
> into trouble. I use N1MM Logger (ver 12.2.2), the serial port for rig
> control, and the parallel port for
> keying. However, I couldn't get the frequency to display, yet I could key
> the rig using N1MM. To make
> a long story short, I found that (using the K3's metering), my supply
> voltage was 12.3 volts. I substituted an AC supply (receive mode only
> because my
>  inverter/converter was only rated for 75 watts!!!) that puts out 13.8 VDC,
> and  VOILA! I got my frequency displayed.
>
> I didn't have time to figure out a solution, so I wound up operating
> without rig control...single band, "rover"
> class, CW only, and would type in my run frequency to set the logger.
>
> So, is the K3 serial port supposed to crap out when the rig's voltage
> supply isn't optimum?
>
> Bert, N4CW
>
>
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