Re: [Elecraft] Combo pre-amp

2013-05-27 Thread Edward R Cole
I am amazed at the length of conversation on this topic.  IN fact an 
internal 6m preamp would be counterproductive to my needs.  I will be 
adding a 1100w solid state 6m amplifier and would have to add two 
coax relays to bypass it in receive if the preamp were 
internal.  Connecting the 6m preamp in the existing configuration I 
run the antenna input to a single 1200w rated coax relay at the 
output of the transmit power amp:

http://www.kl7uw.com/6M-EME-LAYOUT.jpg

Here is how my non-Elecraft preamp is installed on my K3/10:
http://www.kl7uw.com/K3-ARR-6mPreamp.jpg

my six meter webpage:
http://www.kl7uw.com/6m.htm

73, Ed - KL7UW

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Re: [Elecraft] Combo pre-amp

2013-05-27 Thread Gary Gregory
I am not surprised. Rather the opposite.

I am glad to see there are a wide diversity of views on what folks want as
this keeps the ideas flowing and Eric and Wayne evaluate them with a view
to making as many of us happy customers as possible I would guess.

I am firmly in the camp of no more external boxes for pre-amps but I
readily accept this is not a majority view or desire.

73

On 27 May 2013 16:23, Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net wrote:

 I am amazed at the length of conversation on this topic.  IN fact an
 internal 6m preamp would be counterproductive to my needs.  I will be
 adding a 1100w solid state 6m amplifier and would have to add two coax
 relays to bypass it in receive if the preamp were internal.  Connecting the
 6m preamp in the existing configuration I run the antenna input to a single
 1200w rated coax relay at the output of the transmit power amp:
 http://www.kl7uw.com/6M-EME-**LAYOUT.jpghttp://www.kl7uw.com/6M-EME-LAYOUT.jpg

 Here is how my non-Elecraft preamp is installed on my K3/10:
 http://www.kl7uw.com/K3-ARR-**6mPreamp.jpghttp://www.kl7uw.com/K3-ARR-6mPreamp.jpg

 my six meter webpage:
 http://www.kl7uw.com/6m.htm

 73, Ed - KL7UW

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*Gary - VK1ZZ
Skype: Gary.VK1ZZ
Motorhome Portable
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*Elecraft K3
P3 Panadapter
KPA500FT
KAT500FT**
KX3-K
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Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?

2013-05-27 Thread Fred Smith
The factory assembled radios are given a 8 hr. burn in after all
calibrations are done then are gone through and all settings are checked
again as well as all final checks. Well worth the minimum charge for all
they do and everything that is checked at least 3 times. 1 when board is
completed. 2 when radio is built.3 after the final 8 hr. burn in. then
shipped to you.

Then there is the best part all of the people at Elecraft who help all of us
every day.


73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100--KAT100
P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 5:14 PM
To: 'Dave Hachadorian'; 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?

I believe the individual boards in the kits undergo the same production
testing as the factory-assembled units. Eric has weighed in on that point in
the past. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dave Hachadorian
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 12:36 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?

I think it is well worth the extra $200 to purchase at least a basic
factory-assembled K3-10.

If you are interested in saving a few bucks and getting to know the innards
of the rig, then you can add all the extra stuff yourself.

The main advantage of getting the assembled rig is the final factory
acceptance test, verifying that all of the circuitry and features of the
main board are operational.  This eliminates the possibility that the radio
is not Dead On Assembly, as happened to me, through no fault of my own.
Elecraft cannot test every circuit on that main board when they do the
testing at the board level.

The radio is a great value, even at the factory-assembled price.

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, Arizona


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[Elecraft] KPA500 KAT500 in WPX

2013-05-27 Thread Ken K3IU
Just thought I'd pass this along in case others may have 
experienced something similar...


Over the weekend in the WPX contest I noticed that I was 
occasionally being replied to as EA3IU rather than K3IU. 
After the first couple of times, I noticed that each time 
that it happened, I had just made a large frequency change 
on a band and the KAT500 had briefly reacted with a small 
change. Thinking about it, if the first element of the K ( 
_._ ) is being  shortened by action of the KAT500, then what 
was being sent would certainly be interpreted as EA( . . _ ) 
rather than K. I'll do some testing with a separate receiver 
(my K2) and see if I can duplicate it. I'll also re-read the 
manual on the KAT500 to see if I can make it less sensitive 
to in-band freq changes. I know that there are changes in 
settings that can be made.


73, Ken K3IU
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[Elecraft] ALC with 2K-FA on K3

2013-05-27 Thread Dave Blaschke, w5un
I have a new 2K--FA amp and have my K3 ALC connected. Anyone here 
using this setup please email me.


Dave, W5UN

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling

2013-05-27 Thread Richard Gillingham
Yes.  
The very first statement under Installation in the KPA500 owner's manual is the 
following:

IMPORTANT:  Provide at least 2 inches (5 cm) clearance behind the fan and 
above the amplifier for proper air flow.

Nuf said.

73, 
Gil, W1RG


 From: w...@bellsouth.net
 Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 23:39:00 -0400
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling
 
 I do a lot of meteor scatter on 6 meters, and I've tried the tuner both above 
 and below the amp. 
 
 I've found the KPA500 runs cooler with the KAT500 tuner below the amp.
 
 73 de Sebastian, W4AS
 
 
 
 On May 26, 2013, at 6:23 PM, mcduf...@ag0n.net wrote:
 
  On Sun, 26 May 2013 15:06:25 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
  
  The KAT500 may be placed on TOP or under the KPA500. 
  
  I wouldn't put it on top.  I can hear fan and air changes if I get within a 
  half
  inch of the intake slots with my hand at higher speeds.  You can feel the 
  air
  flow considerably at high speed with your hand an inch over the opening.  
  That
  means it does affect the airflow to put something that close.  I don't care 
  if
  the factory or a manual says you can do it.  I sure wouldn't run mine that 
  way.
  
  Gary
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling

2013-05-27 Thread Fred Smith
I guess it boils down to whatever trips your trigger and the people who
designed it said to put it on top if you wanted, no problems.


73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100--KAT100
P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard Gillingham
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 8:31 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling

Yes.  
The very first statement under Installation in the KPA500 owner's manual is
the following:

IMPORTANT:  Provide at least 2 inches (5 cm) clearance behind the fan and
above the amplifier for proper air flow.

Nuf said.

73, 
Gil, W1RG


 From: w...@bellsouth.net
 Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 23:39:00 -0400
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling
 
 I do a lot of meteor scatter on 6 meters, and I've tried the tuner both
above and below the amp. 
 
 I've found the KPA500 runs cooler with the KAT500 tuner below the amp.
 
 73 de Sebastian, W4AS
 
 
 
 On May 26, 2013, at 6:23 PM, mcduf...@ag0n.net wrote:
 
  On Sun, 26 May 2013 15:06:25 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
  
  The KAT500 may be placed on TOP or under the KPA500. 
  
  I wouldn't put it on top.  I can hear fan and air changes if I get
within a half
  inch of the intake slots with my hand at higher speeds.  You can feel
the air
  flow considerably at high speed with your hand an inch over the opening.
That
  means it does affect the airflow to put something that close.  I don't
care if
  the factory or a manual says you can do it.  I sure wouldn't run mine
that way.
  
  Gary
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling

2013-05-27 Thread Brian Alsop
Keep in mind the fan may come on more and end up at higher speeds more 
ofter if you put the KAT500 on top.   That is not to say it will 
overheat.  Fan noise for some is a KPA500 issue.


73 de Brian/K3KO

On 5/27/2013 13:39, Fred Smith wrote:

I guess it boils down to whatever trips your trigger and the people who
designed it said to put it on top if you wanted, no problems.


73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100--KAT100
P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard Gillingham
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 8:31 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling

Yes.
The very first statement under Installation in the KPA500 owner's manual is
the following:

IMPORTANT:  Provide at least 2 inches (5 cm) clearance behind the fan and
above the amplifier for proper air flow.

Nuf said.

73,
Gil, W1RG



From: w...@bellsouth.net
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 23:39:00 -0400
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling

I do a lot of meteor scatter on 6 meters, and I've tried the tuner both

above and below the amp.


I've found the KPA500 runs cooler with the KAT500 tuner below the amp.

73 de Sebastian, W4AS



On May 26, 2013, at 6:23 PM, mcduf...@ag0n.net wrote:


On Sun, 26 May 2013 15:06:25 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:


The KAT500 may be placed on TOP or under the KPA500.


I wouldn't put it on top.  I can hear fan and air changes if I get

within a half

inch of the intake slots with my hand at higher speeds.  You can feel

the air

flow considerably at high speed with your hand an inch over the opening.

That

means it does affect the airflow to put something that close.  I don't

care if

the factory or a manual says you can do it.  I sure wouldn't run mine

that way.


Gary


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling

2013-05-27 Thread AG0N-3055
On Mon, 27 May 2013 09:31:23 -0400, Richard Gillingham wrote:

 IMPORTANT:  Provide at least 2 inches (5 cm) clearance behind the
 fan and above the amplifier for proper air flow.
 
 Nuf said.

Roger that!  And yes, the fan makes PLENTY of noise when it kicks up to
high speed.  It isn't enough that my cardioid mic picks it up, but it
blows the curtain about 2 feet behind it.  :o)

Gary
-- 
http://ag0n.net
3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055
NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling

2013-05-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Aha. You caught something that needs fixing Gil. I'm not an Elecraft
employee but do write some of their manuals. The 2 spec goes way back
before the KAT500 was released. When the KAT500 came along, the engineers
insisted the smaller spacing on top afforded by the KAT500 feet was adequate
clearance.

73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard Gillingham
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 6:31 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling

Yes.  
The very first statement under Installation in the KPA500 owner's manual is
the following:

IMPORTANT:  Provide at least 2 inches (5 cm) clearance behind the fan and
above the amplifier for proper air flow.

Nuf said.

73, 
Gil, W1RG

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling

2013-05-27 Thread Richard Gillingham
Very well.  
Generally I do try to Do as the manufacturer says.  Especially with expensive 
stuff still under warranty..
Fortunately I built my own shelving for the shack and I've got room for the 
KAT500 just above the amp.  All's well.  

Thanks for the heads up on the overly protective caution in the manual.  Maybe 
we'll see a change soon.

73
Gil, W1RG


 From: r...@cobi.biz
 To: w...@hotmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling
 Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 08:03:34 -0700
 
 Aha. You caught something that needs fixing Gil. I'm not an Elecraft
 employee but do write some of their manuals. The 2 spec goes way back
 before the KAT500 was released. When the KAT500 came along, the engineers
 insisted the smaller spacing on top afforded by the KAT500 feet was adequate
 clearance.
 
 73 Ron AC7AC
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard Gillingham
 Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 6:31 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling
 
 Yes.  
 The very first statement under Installation in the KPA500 owner's manual is
 the following:
 
 IMPORTANT:  Provide at least 2 inches (5 cm) clearance behind the fan and
 above the amplifier for proper air flow.
 
 Nuf said.
 
 73, 
 Gil, W1RG
 
  
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Re: [Elecraft] Combo pre-amp

2013-05-27 Thread Vic K2VCO
You could simply run your coax from the relay after the amplifier directly to the rx-in 
jack. Surely an internal preamp would be located between this jack and the rest of the 
receiver. You just wouldn't need to use the rx-out jack.

Am I am missing something here?

On 5/26/2013 11:23 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
I am amazed at the length of conversation on this topic.  IN fact an internal 6m preamp 
would be counterproductive to my needs.  I will be adding a 1100w solid state 6m 
amplifier and would have to add two coax relays to bypass it in receive if the preamp 
were internal.  Connecting the 6m preamp in the existing configuration I run the antenna 
input to a single 1200w rated coax relay at the output of the transmit power amp:

http://www.kl7uw.com/6M-EME-LAYOUT.jpg

Here is how my non-Elecraft preamp is installed on my K3/10:
http://www.kl7uw.com/K3-ARR-6mPreamp.jpg

my six meter webpage:
http://www.kl7uw.com/6m.htm

73, Ed - KL7UW


--
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Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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[Elecraft] Hats order-able on website?

2013-05-27 Thread J.K. Hooper
Have Elecraft Hats ever made it to the website for ordering by those of us 
who didn't attend Dayton? 

Hoop K9QJS   
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling

2013-05-27 Thread Don Wilhelm
Those who know something about fluid dynamics can also tell you that if 
the air flow is restricted, the fan speed will be a bit higher (for any 
given KPA500 selected fan speed) - it is because the fan is not doing as 
much work to move air.
Try an experiment with any fan - partially block the air flow and 
observe that the fan speed increases.
That is more noticeable if the outlet side is blocked - so do maintain 
the proper clearance at the back of the KPA500.


73,
Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?

2013-05-27 Thread Dyarnes

Dick,

My first inclination would be to say do the kit.  As others have said, 
it's not terribly difficult--more assembly than anything, and you just put 
it together piece by piece.  Perhaps the most laborious part of the process 
is doing a careful inventory of the parts, and arranging them logically so 
you put the right screw in the right hole!  As one guy once said to me about 
assembling the K3, if you can pump gas, you can put this together!  An 
exaggeration, and he was joking of course, but he was primarily being 
complimentary to the very excellent engineering that went into this rig.


However, you add the admonition about your age, which should give me, or 
anyone else, some hesitancy.  The fact you are even contemplating the kit 
suggest to me that your age is not a terribly limiting factor.  I know lots 
of folks in that age range who could do this kit nicely, and hopefully you 
fit that category.  The main thing would be decent eyesight.  You have to be 
reasonably careful to make sure you align pins into connectors, etc.  So, 
with due respect to your years, and knowing my eyesight isn't as good as it 
once was, I would at least give you that caution.


There is no soldering involved, and all the parts fit nicely together--some 
take a little coaxing, but they do fit neatly.  I compare this project, 
somewhat, to putting a computer together from the various boards and large 
components.  It's probably a little more complex than that, primarily due to 
the close fitting of components, but with care and patience, it works.


I would urge you to go through the assembly manual, which is available 
online, and see if anything jumps out at you as being potentially 
problematic.  Also, you could always get a 2nd pair of eyes to follow along 
as you do it, which would greatly reduce the chance for any problems.


It's rewarding to do stuff like this yourself, but then again, it doesn't 
make a lot of sense to be penny wise and pound foolish.  If you have been 
doing any constructing lately, I'd guess it would be no problem. 
Otherwise, see what you think based on the manual.


Dave W7AQK



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Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?

2013-05-27 Thread george fritkin
I have two K3s.  One was a kit the other factory built.  I really did not get 
much out of building the kit.  It is simple, all mechanical, and some stages 
require  caution.
 
FYI I am a 74 year old retired EE with lots of bread boarding and kit 
experience.  Also I have a KX3 which I bought factory build as well my KAT500
 
George, W6GF 


 From: Dyarnes w7...@cox.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?
  

Dick,

My first inclination would be to say do the kit.  As others have said, 
it's not terribly difficult--more assembly than anything, and you just put 
it together piece by piece.  Perhaps the most laborious part of the process 
is doing a careful inventory of the parts, and arranging them logically so 
you put the right screw in the right hole!  As one guy once said to me about 
assembling the K3, if you can pump gas, you can put this together!  An 
exaggeration, and he was joking of course, but he was primarily being 
complimentary to the very excellent engineering that went into this rig.

However, you add the admonition about your age, which should give me, or 
anyone else, some hesitancy.  The fact you are even contemplating the kit 
suggest to me that your age is not a terribly limiting factor.  I know lots 
of folks in that age range who could do this kit nicely, and hopefully you 
fit that category.  The main thing would be decent eyesight.  You have to be 
reasonably careful to make sure you align pins into connectors, etc.  So, 
with due respect to your years, and knowing my eyesight isn't as good as it 
once was, I would at least give you that caution.

There is no soldering involved, and all the parts fit nicely together--some 
take a little coaxing, but they do fit neatly.  I compare this project, 
somewhat, to putting a computer together from the various boards and large 
components.  It's probably a little more complex than that, primarily due to 
the close fitting of components, but with care and patience, it works.

I would urge you to go through the assembly manual, which is available 
online, and see if anything jumps out at you as being potentially 
problematic.  Also, you could always get a 2nd pair of eyes to follow along 
as you do it, which would greatly reduce the chance for any problems.

It's rewarding to do stuff like this yourself, but then again, it doesn't 
make a lot of sense to be penny wise and pound foolish.  If you have been 
doing any constructing lately, I'd guess it would be no problem. 
Otherwise, see what you think based on the manual.

Dave W7AQK



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and P3 Adapter

2013-05-27 Thread KM4VX
Thanks to all for the interesting ideas. I am now using the KX3 I/Q output to
my PC line in (works equally well to mic input in rear) and the simple NaP3
software. Works great for panadapter and controlling the rig. I have ordered 
the  inexpensive  iMic soundcard to see if there will  be any difference. I
tried the HDSDR and other free software programs out there,  but in the
absence of operation manuals I found the screen for the HDSDR panadapter
incomprehensible (full disclosure here;could not relate all the differfent
lines and screens to anything useful for me anyway) Now that I have solved
my problem I will probably never use it since I find using a PC to run a
panadapter a waste of space and resources. Look forward to one day seeing an
adapter for the KX3-P3 combo, and I see many others out here would also make
the same investment. I do not go portable with my KX3 but enjoy QRP and the
radio. 73 Ron



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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-and-P3-Adapter-tp7573862p7574262.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Assemble a K3 kit.

2013-05-27 Thread Richard W Hemingway

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[Elecraft] Assemble a K3 kit.

2013-05-27 Thread Richard W Hemingway

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[Elecraft] (no subject)

2013-05-27 Thread Richard W Hemingway
I am wondering what was the age of the oldest person to assemble the K3 kit, 
unassisted? O well just siting around not doing anything.

Dick, N5XRD
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[Elecraft] K3 assembly.

2013-05-27 Thread Mark
I highly recommend building the kit version.  Besides saving some money it will 
also remove
any hesitancy in opening the rig up later to add whatever filter or module you 
may want.

To make the build go easier

1.  Be sure you have a good philips screwdriver. (No chewed up tip)
2.  A well lit work area
3.  Anti-static mat
4.  Sort the parts out, calipers are handy to separate the various lengths of 
similar screws.

Mark. N2QT

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[Elecraft] KX1 RP5 not fully seated

2013-05-27 Thread Bob Melton Gmail
I soldered RP5 in the correct orientation but it's not fully seated against the 
board -- pins just barely stick out of the underside. So RP5 is probably 2-3mm 
higher than it should be. Is this a problem with respect to the case or 
anything else?

Bob Melton KE3KD

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

2013-05-27 Thread Richard Gillingham
Only 70 here..  KX3 #2671 kit

73
Gil, W1RG

 Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 11:26:16 -0700
 From: rhemi...@sbcglobal.net
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] (no subject)
 
 I am wondering what was the age of the oldest person to assemble the K3 kit, 
 unassisted? O well just siting around not doing anything.
 
 Dick, N5XRD
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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

2013-05-27 Thread Richard S. Leary
Was 74, with bilateral tremors . . K3/100, #4497 loaded. Never had a fault
since built, hardware, firmware or download problems (except operator
dumbness). P3 and KPA500 at 75. Again no faults. This year I'll probably do
the KAT500 at 77. Being a ham for 52 years, and an Elec. Tech for 51 years
doesn't hurt. You can not beat Elecraft.

73,
Rick, W7LKG

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard Gillingham
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 12:30
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

Only 70 here..  KX3 #2671 kit

73
Gil, W1RG

 Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 11:26:16 -0700
 From: rhemi...@sbcglobal.net
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] (no subject)
 
 I am wondering what was the age of the oldest person to assemble the K3
kit, unassisted? O well just siting around not doing anything.
 
 Dick, N5XRD
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 list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
  
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[Elecraft] XG3_Signal_Source

2013-05-27 Thread Ken Roberson
Elecraft,

I would like to request a change in the firmware that would allow me
to Edit the frequency of the 160M band to 475 khz.
( 1500 KHZ is as low as it will go at this time ).
This would make a nice signal source for transverter design
on the 630 meter band.

Thanks for all the nice equipment.
73 Ken K5DNL
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Re: [Elecraft] XG3_Signal_Source

2013-05-27 Thread Edward Dickinson III
If so, is there any reason not to go to 450 khz to cover 455 khz i.f.
frequency?  Pardon me if that does not compute.

 

Dick - KA5KKT

  _  

Elecraft,

 

I would like to request a change in the firmware that would allow me

to Edit the frequency of the 160M band to 475 khz.

( 1500 KHZ is as low as it will go at this time ).

This would make a nice signal source for transverter design

on the 630 meter band.

 

Thanks for all the nice equipment.

73 Ken K5DNL

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly.

2013-05-27 Thread Bill Rogers W3UL
I have always enjoyed the tinkering aspect of amateur radio.  Many of us
started out building our rigs from old radios and TV's (back in the 50's).

The K3 is not difficult for anyone able to follow the detailed and
excellent instructions provided.  Age alone should not be a pro or con
decision makerand yes I am over 70.


On Mon, May 27, 2013 at 2:35 PM, Mark n...@verizon.net wrote:

 I highly recommend building the kit version.  Besides saving some money it
 will also remove
 any hesitancy in opening the rig up later to add whatever filter or module
 you may want.

 To make the build go easier

 1.  Be sure you have a good philips screwdriver. (No chewed up tip)
 2.  A well lit work area
 3.  Anti-static mat
 4.  Sort the parts out, calipers are handy to separate the various lengths
 of similar screws.

 Mark. N2QT

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-- 
73,
William (Bill) Rogers / W3UL
Annapolis, Maryland U.S.A.
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[Elecraft] re-no subject

2013-05-27 Thread f9oj.7
Reply to Richard Hemingway...

I did assemble mine in January 2009, I was 86, and just completed a P3 last 
week ( honestly, it's easy to do, much easier than assembling a K2, which I 
did in 2002, + amplifier,ATU , DSP, audio filter etc...)
It reminded me the good old days with Heathkit, and thanks to the Elecraft 
gang which allows old trout like me to feel not so old after all !
73 to everyone
Jacques de F9OJ, (90 years old next November)
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Re: [Elecraft] XG3_Signal_Source

2013-05-27 Thread Ken Roberson
Dick,

Yes , I agree , 450 khz is a better number.

73 Ken K5DNL
=

--- On Mon, 5/27/13, Edward Dickinson III softb...@windstream.net wrote:

From: Edward Dickinson III softb...@windstream.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] XG3_Signal_Source
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, May 27, 2013, 3:14 PM

If so, is there any reason not to go to 450 khz to cover 455 khz i.f.
frequency?  Pardon me if that does not compute.

 

Dick - KA5KKT

  _  

Elecraft,

 

I would like to request a change in the firmware that would allow me

to Edit the frequency of the 160M band to 475 khz.

( 1500 KHZ is as low as it will go at this time ).

This would make a nice signal source for transverter design

on the 630 meter band.

 

Thanks for all the nice equipment.

73 Ken K5DNL

 

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Re: [Elecraft] XG3_Signal_Source

2013-05-27 Thread Bruce Beford
I don't think the CS2100 fractional-n synthesizer used in the XG3 will allow
operation as low as you are asking. Perhaps Bob (the designer) will chime in
on this. OTOH, you could always build your own divider, and use the XG3 at a
freq that it can produce now. If you are designing transverters for 630M,
this should be a trivial task.

GL,
Bruce 
N1RX

 I would like to request a change in the firmware that would allow me
 to Edit the frequency of the 160M band to 475 khz.


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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 RP5 not fully seated

2013-05-27 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bob,

Compare the height of the mounted R-Pak with the height of one of the 
low profile electrolytic capacitors.  If the R-Pak is not higher than 
those capacitors, no problem.


If you have to remove it and do not have good de-soldering equipment, 
get a replacement from pa...@elecraft.com and clip out the Rpak (destroy 
it if necessary, but do not damage the board) - then remove the pins one 
at a time.  To open the solder holes, heat the pad and insert a wooden 
toothpick or a stainless steel needle.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/27/2013 2:38 PM, Bob Melton Gmail wrote:

I soldered RP5 in the correct orientation but it's not fully seated against the 
board -- pins just barely stick out of the underside. So RP5 is probably 2-3mm 
higher than it should be. Is this a problem with respect to the case or 
anything else?

Bob Melton KE3KD




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Re: [Elecraft] XG3_Signal_Source

2013-05-27 Thread David G4DMP
Would it be possible to AM modulate it with a tone of, say, 400 Hz too ?
;-)

73 de David G4DMP

In a recent message, Ken Roberson kwrober...@yahoo.com writes
Dick,

Yes , I agree , 450 khz is a better number.

73 Ken K5DNL

-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +

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[Elecraft] Menus

2013-05-27 Thread Richard W Hemingway
Hello again,

I have been reading Dr. Cady's book on the K3.  I looked at the menus in the 
back and they kind of scare me. They certainly cover just about anything.  How 
much do you have to refer to them or change them.  I don't want to spend my 
time with them.

Dick, N5XRD
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Re: [Elecraft] KE7X KX3 book available

2013-05-27 Thread Cady, Fred


Fred Cady
The Elecraft K3: Design, Configuration and Operation Second Edition
The Elecraft KX3 - Going for the Summit
www.ke7x.com
fcady at ieee dot org

 -Original Message-
 From: David Pratt [mailto:da...@g4dmp.fsnet.co.uk]
 Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 12:21 AM
 To: kk5na
 Cc: Cady, Fred; 'Elecraft Reflector'
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KE7X KX3 book available

 Does the book include the KX3 features yet to be implemented, including
 ESSB

Yes

, CW on SSB mode

Yes

 and synchronous AM reception ?

No.


 73 de David G4DMP

 In a recent message, kk5na kk...@kk5na.com writes
 I received Fred's KX3 book today from Lulu.
 
 First impression:  EXCELLENT!!!
 
 Joe KK5NA

 --
   + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
   | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
   | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
   + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +

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Re: [Elecraft] Menus

2013-05-27 Thread Wayne Burdick
Dick,

The menu is typically used very little once basic configuration is completed. 
Most of this is done at the factory. The defaults can always be used; whether 
you want to customize is up to you.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On May 27, 2013, at 2:20 PM, Richard W Hemingway rhemi...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 Hello again,
 
 I have been reading Dr. Cady's book on the K3.  I looked at the menus in the 
 back and they kind of scare me. They certainly cover just about anything.  
 How much do you have to refer to them or change them.  I don't want to spend 
 my time with them.
 
 Dick, N5XRD
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Re: [Elecraft] Menus

2013-05-27 Thread Dick Dievendorff
I went through mine once when I bought the radio and changed a few for the
options I'd installed.  Most of the others had the value I'd choose anyway.
But I did go through them all.  I don't change them very much at all after
that initial pass.

I change the PTT-KEY option sometimes.  I want it on for my contest logging
program and off most of the other times.

I just worked through the list in the K3 Owner's manual once. I marked the
ones I thought I might want to change afterward.

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard W Hemingway
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 14:21 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Menus

Hello again,

I have been reading Dr. Cady's book on the K3.  I looked at the menus in the
back and they kind of scare me. They certainly cover just about anything.
How much do you have to refer to them or change them.  I don't want to spend
my time with them.

Dick, N5XRD
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Re: [Elecraft] Menus

2013-05-27 Thread ke8g
Hi Dick,

Well, I am a strictly CW guy, so I will speak from that point of view I 
have set a few things that suit my operating practices and haven't changed 
things in a couple of years.  I am sure that if I want to change anything, I 
will need to look at Fred's book again, as I surely do not remember all the 
menu settings!

My suggestion would be to take a look at how you are going to operate the radio 
and go from there.  There's nothing to be scared of, as you are not going to 
hurt the radio.  

73 de Jim - KE8G

 Richard W Hemingway rhemi...@sbcglobal.net wrote: 
 Hello again,
 
 I have been reading Dr. Cady's book on the K3.  I looked at the menus in the 
 back and they kind of scare me. They certainly cover just about anything.  
 How much do you have to refer to them or change them.  I don't want to spend 
 my time with them.
 
 Dick, N5XRD
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[Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and what options?

2013-05-27 Thread Bill Blomgren


I've built LOTS of electronics over the years... but frankly I'm not sure I 
have enough time to build a K3.. (which is what I'm currently looking 
at..) - or a KX3.


My problem: deciding which options will be useful.  I've never done hf... 
I've been a broadcaster (with 20kw into 4 heliax with an antenna way up 
theree.. or a pile of verticals that I never have to touch because the 
tuning was done correctly N years ago  I had the Tech for 2 months, and 
with my background splurged on taking both the general and extra.. and 
somehow managed to pass both.  (Thanks to the DurHamFest and their VE's!)


I'm not sure what will be needed at this point.  Right now, I don't 'do' 
code. Never learned it.  I will eventually pick it up, but not right at 
first... Computer? but of course... That's the sort of stuff I do for a 
living, so morse from keyboard? No issue.  Reading what comes back?  The 
computer can handle that.


Pactor?  Shoot.. I'm a tcp/ip junkie... it's not IP, but it is a packet from 
point A to someplace else.. Can do.


Other that that.. I'm really not sure what options will be required in a 100 
watt/living in an apartment with resulting ugly antenna issue world will 
need.  Obviously the antenna tuner, but what else is everyone finding 
useful. (I can skip the 2 meter add on for the time being... probably can 
find a 6 meter antenna I can fudge into functionality.. SOMETHING for 20 to 
6 meters perhaps...or 20 through 10... Again, not sure what will be needed.


Naturally, if you ask Elecraft, you will get a system with every possible 
bell and whistle.. but is it all something a newb will use? 


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Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and what options?

2013-05-27 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett

The good thing is you can add stuff later, if you need it.

I would start out with a CW filter/RTTY Filter, 100 watts and the tuner. 
   If you plan to xmit FM or AM you will need the appropriate filter.  
The Xvter board is nice if you use receiving antennas.  The sub Rcv is 
great if you like to tune multiple bands at the same time.  If you want 
general coverage then you will need that module.


The kits are fairly simplistic to build.  The boards are built and 
tested.  It is a matter of building the case around the parts.  I 
enjoyed building both of mine and my amp.  They really don't take too 
long to build.  If you don't have the time then have Elecraft build it, 
the additional cost is reasonable.


If you are into QRP then look at the KX3.

Mike W0MU

On 5/27/2013 3:51 PM, Bill Blomgren wrote:


I've built LOTS of electronics over the years... but frankly I'm not 
sure I have enough time to build a K3.. (which is what I'm currently 
looking at..) - or a KX3.


My problem: deciding which options will be useful.  I've never done 
hf... I've been a broadcaster (with 20kw into 4 heliax with an 
antenna way up theree.. or a pile of verticals that I never have 
to touch because the tuning was done correctly N years ago  I had 
the Tech for 2 months, and with my background splurged on taking both 
the general and extra.. and somehow managed to pass both.  (Thanks to 
the DurHamFest and their VE's!)


I'm not sure what will be needed at this point.  Right now, I don't 
'do' code. Never learned it.  I will eventually pick it up, but not 
right at first... Computer? but of course... That's the sort of stuff 
I do for a living, so morse from keyboard? No issue.  Reading what 
comes back?  The computer can handle that.


Pactor?  Shoot.. I'm a tcp/ip junkie... it's not IP, but it is a 
packet from point A to someplace else.. Can do.


Other that that.. I'm really not sure what options will be required in 
a 100 watt/living in an apartment with resulting ugly antenna issue 
world will need.  Obviously the antenna tuner, but what else is 
everyone finding useful. (I can skip the 2 meter add on for the time 
being... probably can find a 6 meter antenna I can fudge into 
functionality.. SOMETHING for 20 to 6 meters perhaps...or 20 through 
10... Again, not sure what will be needed.


Naturally, if you ask Elecraft, you will get a system with every 
possible bell and whistle.. but is it all something a newb will use?

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Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and what options?

2013-05-27 Thread Brendon Whateley
That has not been my experience at all.  They come back with how do you 
operate or intend to operate and then go from there.  Since so many of them 
use the equipment, I found them to be a great resource when ordering.  It all 
comes down to knowing what you want to do...

- Brendon
KK6AYI

On May 27, 2013, at 2:51 PM, Bill Blomgren wrote:

 Naturally, if you ask Elecraft, you will get a system with every possible 
 bell and whistle.. but is it all something a newb will use? 

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[Elecraft] KX3 and Solar Panel

2013-05-27 Thread Lee Stephens
Okso while at Dayton I purchased a 20W foldable solar panel with 
an Anderson Power Pole connector.  Today was the first day I got to 
test it out at the park and as advertised it needed absolutely no time 
to start sending electrons to the radiono  warm up time needed.  
The operating voltage is advertised at 15.4 volts.  When I powered on 
the KX3 it was on 10 seconds or so and gave me a warning that the 
input was 16 volts and the KX3 then shut down to protect itself.  
Ok...so it has 4 rows of panelsI folded one under and bamit 
gave me a 16 vots of input and shut down againso I covered up 
another row and it wouldn't come onI covered up one of the squares 
and had a nice 13 volts input and it operated fine. Sending at 10 
watts and the reports on the other end on 17 meters were, You sound 
like you always do...which locally means good...but still lost in the 
dog piles of a DX.


So...this thing is putting out more power than it is supposed 
to...which is a good surprise...and watching the KX3 screen the 
voltage seemed stable throughout SSB at 10 watts...I'd like to test 
that out on JT65 but I left the laptop at home and I didn't have any 
memories set for a long CQ on RTTY and didn't have the CW key either 
for input.


So, anyone have a suggestion on an inline voltage regulator...say just 
Anderson Power Poles on both ends and a potentiometer to let me dial 
down to the desired input voltage?  It would be nice to have a digital 
screen but not necessary since I should be able to read the voltages 
on the KX3 screen.  The lighter the weight the better.  The whole 
point of the light weight fold-able solar panel was for back packing 
to a summit and staying there for a while and leaving the batteries 
behind.


Thanks for any help and suggestions

Lee Stephens
KK4JSJ
KX3 #3462



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Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?

2013-05-27 Thread Robert Biamonte

Hello,
I built the K3, the Panadapter and the 500w amp with no trouble at  
all. I liked the ancient Heathkits and this was much easier. Each kit  
consists of plugging things together or inserting boards into  
connectors and the like. The instructions are straight forward and  
the Tech Support people are tops.  As I was building, I even ordered  
other goodies, like filters and a Headset/Mike combo.

I thought it was a lot of fun to build a radio station again.
73 Rob WB2OMW

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Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and what options?

2013-05-27 Thread Josh Fiden
Considering you're initially running SSB with compromised antennas, I 
would definitely look at K3-100 and not run QRP. You don't need any 
filter to start besides the stock 2.7 or 8-pole 2.8kHz, the DSP will do 
the rest until you know what you want to do and where you want improved 
performance. As W0MU correctly noted, you can always add whatever you 
want. This is a great feature of the K3! You will want an antenna tuner, 
either the internal KAT3, or if you want the option of running more 
power later, you might consider putting the cost of the KAT3 into a 
KAT500 which accomplishes the same thing but accommodates up to 1KW. 
Alternately, if you anticipate wanting to load up a wet noodle (possible 
in an apartment), some external tuners will give you more flexibility. 
Last, my favorite bargain headset Yamaha CM100 and you're in business!


Welcome to HF!

73,
Josh W6XU


On 5/27/2013 3:12 PM, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:

The good thing is you can add stuff later, if you need it.

I would start out with a CW filter/RTTY Filter, 100 watts and the 
tuner.If you plan to xmit FM or AM you will need the appropriate 
filter.  The Xvter board is nice if you use receiving antennas.  The 
sub Rcv is great if you like to tune multiple bands at the same time.  
If you want general coverage then you will need that module.


The kits are fairly simplistic to build.  The boards are built and 
tested.  It is a matter of building the case around the parts.  I 
enjoyed building both of mine and my amp.  They really don't take too 
long to build.  If you don't have the time then have Elecraft build 
it, the additional cost is reasonable.


If you are into QRP then look at the KX3.

Mike W0MU

On 5/27/2013 3:51 PM, Bill Blomgren wrote:


I've built LOTS of electronics over the years... but frankly I'm not 
sure I have enough time to build a K3.. (which is what I'm currently 
looking at..) - or a KX3.


My problem: deciding which options will be useful.  I've never done 
hf... I've been a broadcaster (with 20kw into 4 heliax with an 
antenna way up theree.. or a pile of verticals that I never 
have to touch because the tuning was done correctly N years ago  
I had the Tech for 2 months, and with my background splurged on 
taking both the general and extra.. and somehow managed to pass 
both.  (Thanks to the DurHamFest and their VE's!)


I'm not sure what will be needed at this point.  Right now, I don't 
'do' code. Never learned it.  I will eventually pick it up, but not 
right at first... Computer? but of course... That's the sort of stuff 
I do for a living, so morse from keyboard? No issue.  Reading what 
comes back?  The computer can handle that.


Pactor?  Shoot.. I'm a tcp/ip junkie... it's not IP, but it is a 
packet from point A to someplace else.. Can do.


Other that that.. I'm really not sure what options will be required 
in a 100 watt/living in an apartment with resulting ugly antenna 
issue world will need.  Obviously the antenna tuner, but what else is 
everyone finding useful. (I can skip the 2 meter add on for the time 
being... probably can find a 6 meter antenna I can fudge into 
functionality.. SOMETHING for 20 to 6 meters perhaps...or 20 through 
10... Again, not sure what will be needed.


Naturally, if you ask Elecraft, you will get a system with every 
possible bell and whistle.. but is it all something a newb will use?

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Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and what options?

2013-05-27 Thread Wes Stewart
I've designed and built a lot of gear in my 55 years of ham radio (see 
http://sadxa.org/n7ws.html for a couple of the simpler projects).  I also 
built my K3/100, which isn't much of a challenge, but frankly if I were you 
and time was limited, I would just buy one assembled.

For options, maybe the 2.8 KHz filter upgrade (I'm not sure I would do that 
again either), the ATU (I use resonant antennas or a linear antenna tuner) so 
I didn't include one.  If you are going to do RTTY you might want the 400Hz 
filter and it will come in handy if you ever use CW.  Of course the 100W 
option, otherwise, you're done.

Wes  N7WS

--- On Mon, 5/27/13, Bill Blomgren billb...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 
 I've built LOTS of electronics over the years... but frankly
 I'm not sure I have enough time to build a K3.. (which is
 what I'm currently looking at..) - or a KX3.
 
 My problem: deciding which options will be useful. 
 I've never done hf... I've been a broadcaster (with 20kw
 into 4 heliax with an antenna way up theree.. or a
 pile of verticals that I never have to touch because the
 tuning was done correctly N years ago  I had the
 Tech for 2 months, and with my background splurged on taking
 both the general and extra.. and somehow managed to pass
 both.  (Thanks to the DurHamFest and their VE's!)
 
 I'm not sure what will be needed at this point.  Right
 now, I don't 'do' code. Never learned it.  I will
 eventually pick it up, but not right at first... Computer?
 but of course... That's the sort of stuff I do for a living,
 so morse from keyboard? No issue.  Reading what comes
 back?  The computer can handle that.
 
 Pactor?  Shoot.. I'm a tcp/ip junkie... it's not IP,
 but it is a packet from point A to someplace else.. Can do.
 
 Other that that.. I'm really not sure what options will be
 required in a 100 watt/living in an apartment with resulting
 ugly antenna issue world will need.  Obviously the
 antenna tuner, but what else is everyone finding useful. (I
 can skip the 2 meter add on for the time being... probably
 can find a 6 meter antenna I can fudge into functionality..
 SOMETHING for 20 to 6 meters perhaps...or 20 through 10...
 Again, not sure what will be needed.
 
 Naturally, if you ask Elecraft, you will get a system with
 every possible bell and whistle.. but is it all
 something a newb will use? 
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Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and what options?

2013-05-27 Thread Bill Blomgren
That's the sort of thing I was thinking.. I *really* don't anticipate going 
higher than 100 watts.. and will try the tripod antennas they have available 
in all probability, and look into building a motorized magnetic loop in all 
likelihood.  (I can put nylon straps around the wooden beam holding up the 
second floor here.. and move the 2 meter somewhere.. perhaps to the front of 
the apartment, hanging from the light outside..G


I was looking at ground loops - the only problem there would be RF levels if 
a cat or goose decided to get nosey.  (I don't want to injure the critters, 
and don't want nosey kids playing with the antenna, naturally.  A tripod 
antenna can find its way into the storage room easily... a Mag Loop?  Get it 
up to the 6 or 7 foot level, and hope no one yanks on it.



- Original Message - 
From: Josh Fiden j...@voodoolab.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and what options?


Considering you're initially running SSB with compromised antennas, I 
would definitely look at K3-100 and not run QRP. You don't need any filter 
to start besides the stock 2.7 or 8-pole 2.8kHz, the DSP will do the rest 
until you know what you want to do and where you want improved 
performance. As W0MU correctly noted, you can always add whatever you 
want. This is a great feature of the K3! You will want an antenna tuner, 
either the internal KAT3, or if you want the option of running more power 
later, you might consider putting the cost of the KAT3 into a KAT500 which 
accomplishes the same thing but accommodates up to 1KW. Alternately, if 
you anticipate wanting to load up a wet noodle (possible in an apartment), 
some external tuners will give you more flexibility. Last, my favorite 
bargain headset Yamaha CM100 and you're in business!


Welcome to HF!

73,
Josh W6XU


On 5/27/2013 3:12 PM, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:

The good thing is you can add stuff later, if you need it.

I would start out with a CW filter/RTTY Filter, 100 watts and the tuner. 
If you plan to xmit FM or AM you will need the appropriate filter.  The 
Xvter board is nice if you use receiving antennas.  The sub Rcv is great 
if you like to tune multiple bands at the same time.  If you want general 
coverage then you will need that module.


The kits are fairly simplistic to build.  The boards are built and 
tested.  It is a matter of building the case around the parts.  I enjoyed 
building both of mine and my amp.  They really don't take too long to 
build.  If you don't have the time then have Elecraft build it, the 
additional cost is reasonable.


If you are into QRP then look at the KX3.

Mike W0MU

On 5/27/2013 3:51 PM, Bill Blomgren wrote:


I've built LOTS of electronics over the years... but frankly I'm not 
sure I have enough time to build a K3.. (which is what I'm currently 
looking at..) - or a KX3.


My problem: deciding which options will be useful.  I've never done 
hf... I've been a broadcaster (with 20kw into 4 heliax with an antenna 
way up theree.. or a pile of verticals that I never have to touch 
because the tuning was done correctly N years ago  I had the Tech 
for 2 months, and with my background splurged on taking both the general 
and extra.. and somehow managed to pass both.  (Thanks to the DurHamFest 
and their VE's!)


I'm not sure what will be needed at this point.  Right now, I don't 'do' 
code. Never learned it.  I will eventually pick it up, but not right at 
first... Computer? but of course... That's the sort of stuff I do for a 
living, so morse from keyboard? No issue.  Reading what comes back?  The 
computer can handle that.


Pactor?  Shoot.. I'm a tcp/ip junkie... it's not IP, but it is a packet 
from point A to someplace else.. Can do.


Other that that.. I'm really not sure what options will be required in a 
100 watt/living in an apartment with resulting ugly antenna issue world 
will need.  Obviously the antenna tuner, but what else is everyone 
finding useful. (I can skip the 2 meter add on for the time being... 
probably can find a 6 meter antenna I can fudge into functionality.. 
SOMETHING for 20 to 6 meters perhaps...or 20 through 10... Again, not 
sure what will be needed.


Naturally, if you ask Elecraft, you will get a system with every 
possible bell and whistle.. but is it all something a newb will use?

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and Solar Panel

2013-05-27 Thread Lee Stephens


Thanks John,

That satisfies my need on several levels.

1. I can set the output voltage and then lock the set screw so it 
doesn't move if bumped.

2. It weighs 1.6 ounces
3. I can make up whatever length leads I want with APP connectors
4. The output voltage isn't going to waver unless the input voltage 
drops below the desired output...say clouds roll up and it goes from 
16 vdc to 13 vdc and I have it to ~13 vdc.
5. They are in Akron, OH and the shipping time to Northern Kentucky 
wouldn't be very long and they say they are in stock.


Again, Thanks John,

73,

Lee Stephens
KK4JSJ
KX3 #3462



On Monday 05/27/2013 at 6:34 pm, Dr John H Farmer  wrote:



Hi Lee,

The open circuit voltage on these panels is often higher than is 
acceptable to the radio's input regulator.


I use one of these:

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/anyvolt3


They're tiny and weigh nothing. I have leads with APP connections 
attached to it.



73,


John
VK7JB

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[Elecraft] WANTED: Elecraft K1-4

2013-05-27 Thread K.Edwards
I am looking for a K1, preferably with ATU and internal battery options.

If you have one available, please reply with an asking price and photo.

Thanks...

--Ken  WA4SQM
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and Solar Panel

2013-05-27 Thread k3ndm
Lee, 
I think I'd use a small, ~8Ah. The solar panel will charge the battery, and the 
battery will keep the voltage closer to what you need. The best part is that 
you'll be able to operate after dark. 

73, 
Barry 
K3NDM 

- Original Message -
From: Lee Stephens b2rie...@cincinnaticomm.com 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 6:26:37 PM 
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 and Solar Panel 

Okso while at Dayton I purchased a 20W foldable solar panel with 
an Anderson Power Pole connector. Today was the first day I got to 
test it out at the park and as advertised it needed absolutely no time 
to start sending electrons to the radiono warm up time needed. 
The operating voltage is advertised at 15.4 volts. When I powered on 
the KX3 it was on 10 seconds or so and gave me a warning that the 
input was 16 volts and the KX3 then shut down to protect itself. 
Ok...so it has 4 rows of panelsI folded one under and bamit 
gave me a 16 vots of input and shut down againso I covered up 
another row and it wouldn't come onI covered up one of the squares 
and had a nice 13 volts input and it operated fine. Sending at 10 
watts and the reports on the other end on 17 meters were, You sound 
like you always do...which locally means good...but still lost in the 
dog piles of a DX. 

So...this thing is putting out more power than it is supposed 
to...which is a good surprise...and watching the KX3 screen the 
voltage seemed stable throughout SSB at 10 watts...I'd like to test 
that out on JT65 but I left the laptop at home and I didn't have any 
memories set for a long CQ on RTTY and didn't have the CW key either 
for input. 

So, anyone have a suggestion on an inline voltage regulator...say just 
Anderson Power Poles on both ends and a potentiometer to let me dial 
down to the desired input voltage? It would be nice to have a digital 
screen but not necessary since I should be able to read the voltages 
on the KX3 screen. The lighter the weight the better. The whole 
point of the light weight fold-able solar panel was for back packing 
to a summit and staying there for a while and leaving the batteries 
behind. 

Thanks for any help and suggestions 

Lee Stephens 
KK4JSJ 
KX3 #3462 



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and Solar Panel

2013-05-27 Thread Greg Troxel
A 20W panel that is labeled as for a 12V system will typically have a
Voc (open circuit) of 22ish V, and a Vmp (maximum power voltage) of 18V.

Generally, one should not hook up a bare panel to a load, and the usual
recommendation is charge controller and battery.   I wonder about a
large cap instead of a battery, enough to make the controller stable.

I have a 20W (HQRP) panel and use a Genasun GV-5 MPPT charge controller and
then charge about 100Ah of batteries.  I have not tried the controller
with no batteries.

The anyvolt3 is an interesting concept for this application.  MPPT
controllers try different voltage/current combinations to find the one
that's in-range for the DC-DC converter and results in maximal power.
I have found that to be around 17.5-18V whenever I get more than 200 mA
From the system (sometimes I see 1.6A).  The anyvolt3 is expecting a
voltage source, it seems, and the datasheet seems to imply that.  A
panel is not a voltage source.  So I really wonder what would happen.
Has anyone put a high-speed scope on the input when hooked up to a
panel?
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Re: [Elecraft] XG3_Signal_Source

2013-05-27 Thread Eugene Balinski
If that is the case, any chance we can get it down to 50
kHz ?  Some of the old Hammarlund gear need 60 kHz as well
as some of the more common IF frequencies 

Gene - K1NR


On Mon, 27 May 2013 16:14:31 -0400
 Edward Dickinson III softb...@windstream.net wrote:
 If so, is there any reason not to go to 450 khz to cover
 455 khz i.f.
 frequency?  Pardon me if that does not compute.
 
  
 
 Dick - KA5KKT
 
   _  
 
 Elecraft,
 
  
 
 I would like to request a change in the firmware that
 would allow me
 
 to Edit the frequency of the 160M band to 475 khz.
 
 ( 1500 KHZ is as low as it will go at this time ).
 
 This would make a nice signal source for transverter
 design
 
 on the 630 meter band.
 
  
 
 Thanks for all the nice equipment.
 
 73 Ken K5DNL
 
  
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and what options?

2013-05-27 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bill,

OK, you don't have time to assemble the kit (it only takes 6 to 8 hours 
unless you have a lot of options) - so go with the K3/100.

With your antenna limitations, you should add the KXAT3.

All of the other options will depend on your chosen operating.  As a new 
General (Congratulations BTW), I would suggest you delay all other 
options until you can determine what kind of operation you will be doing 
on HF.

There are 2 exceptions to that advice:
1) If you even think you might later want to add the 2nd receiver *and* 
operate using diversity mode, get the 8 pole 2.8 kHz filter.
2) If you also desire to listen to SW Broadcast, add the KBPF3, and you 
may want either the 6 kHz or 13 kHz filter to receive AM.


I would limit the options to those choices until you have a handle on 
what your HF operations will be and once you have a little experience, 
you can easily add other options as needed (or desired).


If you get into CW or Data Mode contesting (or DXing) where you are 
operating with many other stations close to your frequency, you are 
likely to want additional roofing filters to minimize AGC 'pumping' 
which result from very strong stations close to your frequency.  If you 
venture into CW, you may want either the 250 or the 400 Hz filters - the 
400 Hz filter is also great for data modes, but if you use a wide (SSB 
width) waterfall when running data modes, that narrow filter will not be 
in use.


If you are not serious about working DX in pileup situations or heavy 
contesting, the DSP filtering in the K3 will serve admirably.
Even if you are serious about trying some of that kind of operating, I 
suggest you try the K3 with just the 2.7 or 2.8 kHz filter until you get 
your station on the air and enjoy your contacts.  If you find you need 
more roofing filters, the extra filters can be easily added.


Get the K3, then get the HF experience, and then you will know what you 
want to add to your K3.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 5/27/2013 6:43 PM, Bill Blomgren wrote:
That's the sort of thing I was thinking.. I *really* don't anticipate 
going higher than 100 watts.. and will try the tripod antennas they 
have available in all probability, and look into building a motorized 
magnetic loop in all likelihood.  (I can put nylon straps around the 
wooden beam holding up the second floor here.. and move the 2 meter 
somewhere.. perhaps to the front of the apartment, hanging from the 
light outside..G


I was looking at ground loops - the only problem there would be RF 
levels if a cat or goose decided to get nosey.  (I don't want to 
injure the critters, and don't want nosey kids playing with the 
antenna, naturally.  A tripod antenna can find its way into the 
storage room easily... a Mag Loop?  Get it up to the 6 or 7 foot 
level, and hope no one yanks on it.



- Original Message - From: Josh Fiden j...@voodoolab.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and what options?


Considering you're initially running SSB with compromised antennas, I 
would definitely look at K3-100 and not run QRP. You don't need any 
filter to start besides the stock 2.7 or 8-pole 2.8kHz, the DSP will 
do the rest until you know what you want to do and where you want 
improved performance. As W0MU correctly noted, you can always add 
whatever you want. This is a great feature of the K3! You will want 
an antenna tuner, either the internal KAT3, or if you want the option 
of running more power later, you might consider putting the cost of 
the KAT3 into a KAT500 which accomplishes the same thing but 
accommodates up to 1KW. Alternately, if you anticipate wanting to 
load up a wet noodle (possible in an apartment), some external tuners 
will give you more flexibility. Last, my favorite bargain headset 
Yamaha CM100 and you're in business!


Welcome to HF!

73,
Josh W6XU



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Re: [Elecraft] Win4K3 Suite

2013-05-27 Thread tomb18
We are now in the third beta.if you wish to help please seems me an email
The kat500 is now supported as well
Thanks, Tom va2fsq.com



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Re: [Elecraft] XG3_Signal_Source

2013-05-27 Thread Paul Saffren N6HZ
Ken, 

As the firmware engineer on the XG3 I can tell you that 1.5 MHz is as low as
we can go on the CS2100CP synthesizer chip using the 10 MHz internal
reference oscillator.  I suppose one thing you could try is to remove the 10
MHz crystal and replace it with a 1 MHz one.  That might get you down there
but you would sacrifice the upper frequencies in doing so.  I haven't tried
it personally, so I cannot guarantee the outcome. 

Regarding modulation, I looked into that a while ago and found that the PLL
lock time of the CS2100CP is too long to allow for any type of modulation.  

73,

Paul





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Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and what options?

2013-05-27 Thread Peter Hedberg
For a Nano second I thought about a self-build but when I considered time
verses cost it was a no brainer for me.  My new K3 and P3 will be delivered
in a couple of days and  a couple of hours after that I will have it on the
air.  I wasn't at all concerned about my ability to assemble the parts and
pieces but  I really like instant gratification so for me to pay the little
extra to have the factory do the assembly and testing made sense for me.   I
pretty much knew what I wanted in the way of accessories but I wasn't real
clear on the filter choices.  Their customer service guru Harold knew the
questions to ask and he walked me through what would be best for my type of
operating.   In the end he even saved me some dollars over my original
choices.

Congratulations Bill on passing the general and extra in one sitting and
welcome to our world.  It's a fantastic place!  

73 - Pete - K7WTG



-Original Message-
From: Bill Blomgren [mailto:billb...@nc.rr.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 2:52 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and what options?


I've built LOTS of electronics over the years... but frankly I'm not sure I
have enough time to build a K3.. (which is what I'm currently looking
at..) - or a KX3.

My problem: deciding which options will be useful.  I've never done hf... 
I've been a broadcaster (with 20kw into 4 heliax with an antenna way up
theree.. or a pile of verticals that I never have to touch because the
tuning was done correctly N years ago  I had the Tech for 2 months, and
with my background splurged on taking both the general and extra.. and
somehow managed to pass both.  (Thanks to the DurHamFest and their VE's!)

I'm not sure what will be needed at this point.  Right now, I don't 'do' 
code. Never learned it.  I will eventually pick it up, but not right at
first... Computer? but of course... That's the sort of stuff I do for a
living, so morse from keyboard? No issue.  Reading what comes back?  The
computer can handle that.

Pactor?  Shoot.. I'm a tcp/ip junkie... it's not IP, but it is a packet from
point A to someplace else.. Can do.

Other that that.. I'm really not sure what options will be required in a 100
watt/living in an apartment with resulting ugly antenna issue world will
need.  Obviously the antenna tuner, but what else is everyone finding
useful. (I can skip the 2 meter add on for the time being... probably can
find a 6 meter antenna I can fudge into functionality.. SOMETHING for 20 to
6 meters perhaps...or 20 through 10... Again, not sure what will be needed.

Naturally, if you ask Elecraft, you will get a system with every possible
bell and whistle.. but is it all something a newb will use? 

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[Elecraft] KX3 ATU antenna 1 2

2013-05-27 Thread GDR

I use two different antennas with my KX3, a vertical and an OCF dipole. Each 
time I change antennas on the same band I am forced to retune. Could the 
software be modified to allow me to tap-hold the ANT button to select an 
already tuned set of component values for the second antenna? Tap-holding the 
ANT button again would toggle me back to the component values for antenna 1. 
This would sure save time and wear and tear on the ATU and be so much quicker. 
It would also make the little radio more versatile! What do you'll think?
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Re: [Elecraft] XG3_Signal_Source

2013-05-27 Thread David G4DMP

Thanks for that, Paul; I had wondered for some time whether a firmware
upgrade would have been possible to allow tone modulation. Nevertheless,
the XG3 is a fine piece of kit. Your contribution to its development is
much appreciated.

73 de David G4DMP


In a recent message, Paul Saffren N6HZ pa...@elecraft.com writes

Regarding modulation, I looked into that a while ago and found that the PLL
lock time of the CS2100CP is too long to allow for any type of modulation.

-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +

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Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and what options?

2013-05-27 Thread Tim Hague
Hi Bill and congratulations.

Just a point before you get frustrated, computers reading CW, I wouldn't rely 
on it!, OK if both sides are using machine morse but if one is using the 
traditional way.


Best regards, Tim Hague, M0AFJ
Skype m0afj.Tim
Sent on my iPad


On 28 May 2013, at 03:56, Peter Hedberg k7...@arrl.net wrote:

 For a Nano second I thought about a self-build but when I considered time
 verses cost it was a no brainer for me.  My new K3 and P3 will be delivered
 in a couple of days and  a couple of hours after that I will have it on the
 air.  I wasn't at all concerned about my ability to assemble the parts and
 pieces but  I really like instant gratification so for me to pay the little
 extra to have the factory do the assembly and testing made sense for me.   I
 pretty much knew what I wanted in the way of accessories but I wasn't real
 clear on the filter choices.  Their customer service guru Harold knew the
 questions to ask and he walked me through what would be best for my type of
 operating.   In the end he even saved me some dollars over my original
 choices.
 
 Congratulations Bill on passing the general and extra in one sitting and
 welcome to our world.  It's a fantastic place!  
 
 73 - Pete - K7WTG
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Bill Blomgren [mailto:billb...@nc.rr.com] 
 Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 2:52 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? and what options?
 
 
 I've built LOTS of electronics over the years... but frankly I'm not sure I
 have enough time to build a K3.. (which is what I'm currently looking
 at..) - or a KX3.
 
 My problem: deciding which options will be useful.  I've never done hf... 
 I've been a broadcaster (with 20kw into 4 heliax with an antenna way up
 theree.. or a pile of verticals that I never have to touch because the
 tuning was done correctly N years ago  I had the Tech for 2 months, and
 with my background splurged on taking both the general and extra.. and
 somehow managed to pass both.  (Thanks to the DurHamFest and their VE's!)
 
 I'm not sure what will be needed at this point.  Right now, I don't 'do' 
 code. Never learned it.  I will eventually pick it up, but not right at
 first... Computer? but of course... That's the sort of stuff I do for a
 living, so morse from keyboard? No issue.  Reading what comes back?  The
 computer can handle that.
 
 Pactor?  Shoot.. I'm a tcp/ip junkie... it's not IP, but it is a packet from
 point A to someplace else.. Can do.
 
 Other that that.. I'm really not sure what options will be required in a 100
 watt/living in an apartment with resulting ugly antenna issue world will
 need.  Obviously the antenna tuner, but what else is everyone finding
 useful. (I can skip the 2 meter add on for the time being... probably can
 find a 6 meter antenna I can fudge into functionality.. SOMETHING for 20 to
 6 meters perhaps...or 20 through 10... Again, not sure what will be needed.
 
 Naturally, if you ask Elecraft, you will get a system with every possible
 bell and whistle.. but is it all something a newb will use? 
 
 __
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