date:20130701


Joerg,

The KRC2 can be configured to accept BCD data as input, but I see no 
reference that it provides BCD output.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/1/2013 8:05 AM, Jörg Rüschenschmidt wrote:

Hi all,

I have two devices which requires band data.


1.)Bandpass filter with 12 volt input lines per band

2.)Antenna switch which requires a BCD coded input for automatic
switching


My intention is to use KRC2 in serial mode. I understood from documentation
BCD coded band data information will be available on J4 in serial mode.
However I am not sure about this topic.  My main interest is, could I use
one KRC2 to support both devices at the same time ?



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 question

2013-07-01 Thread John D'Ausilio

I use the KRC2 as you describe (though I've got a highly modified bandmap
and use it for driving my microwave rover station) .. I use the BCD output
to drive my LO synthesizer and the discrete outputs to throw relays and
stuff, works fine for me

de w1rt/john


On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 8:05 AM, Jörg Rüschenschmidt  wrote:

> Hi all,
>
>
>
> I have two devices which requires band data.
>
>
>
> 1.)Bandpass filter with 12 volt input lines per band
>
> 2.)Antenna switch which requires a BCD coded input for automatic
> switching
>
>
>
> My intention is to use KRC2 in serial mode. I understood from documentation
> BCD coded band data information will be available on J4 in serial mode.
> However I am not sure about this topic.  My main interest is, could I use
> one KRC2 to support both devices at the same time ?
>
>
>
> 73 de Joerg (DL3QQ)
>
>
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] WTB: KPA 500 amp

2013-07-01 Thread k...@juno.com

Looking to buy KPA 500 amp.  Must be pristine and function perfectly as well, 
including all cabling. Reply off list to k...@juno.com  TNX

1 Odd spice that FIGHTS diabetes
Can this unusual "super spice" control your blood sugar and fight 
diabetes?
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/51d1775da7a2f775d086est04duc
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Amp

2013-07-01 Thread Dave B

With all the banter about KX3's and amp's, on batteries for "Emergency" 
use.

Please remember, that battery makers specify the AH figure, for a typical 
C/20 rate, (1/20th the nominal AH current value.)   Some may quote it at 
C/10, check the data sheets for the battery of interest, they will often 
have example of typical discharge voltage curves, for various discharge 
rates too.  That can be *Very* enlightening!

Without going into specifics, 20A from a 7AH battery may on the face of 
it give you some 20 minutes operating (7 / 20 * 60) but in practice you'd 
be lucky to get even near half that of actual "Practical Use" of your 
amp'.   Probably no more than 5 mins TX time at most before it all starts 
to collapse.

The charge/discharge efficiency of SLA (and most other batteries) falls 
like a stone with high discharge currents, also, also the voltage is 
lower at high currents as the battery nears "empty", but many high 
current loads (Amp's etc) don't work well (if at all) at those lower 
voltages, so in practice you get even less usable run time..

Try your intended battery with something else that is a similar load, 
while monitoring the voltage...


For Lithium family cell's, they (should) have a monitor circuit that will 
simply cut off the load to prevent over discharge (and resulting thermal 
"instability") leaving you totally dead in the water as it were.

As others have said, if you don't already have the needed techniques, opt 
for some narrow band mode (the built in PSK31 if your CW is not good 
enough?) to get a message out if needed via as resonant as you can get it 
antenna..   Even 3W of that can be reliably decoded many 100's of miles 
away, on the right frequencies.   Don't forget the counterpoise if using 
a wire.  However, farmers fences can make good grounds, also antennas at 
times!  :)   (Avoid "Electric" fences of course!!!)

A repeated short distress message (SOS or PanPan Medico?) including an 
international grid reference, sent on one of the QRP frequencies, I 
suspect would possibly result in some action, but I wouldnt garrantee it 
on HAM bands sadly..

Remember too, what is said somewhere in all mobile phone handbooks that I 
have ever seen (that no one ever reads) "this device uses radio signals, 
that are by their nature unreliable, you should therefore not rely on 
this or other radio service for emergency call's."   But what do most 
people cite for their ownership of a mobile 'phone?  "Use in an 
emergency"!

If you **NEED** such comm's, perhaps a satellite 'phone is more 
appropriate, and even they are not without issues.   Or carry an EPIRB 
with you if you're hiking well away from anywhere.   Activate one of 
them, even on land, and all heck will come your way in very short order!.   
Even a sat'phone and EPIRB are lighter and smaller to carry than a KX3, 
amp and battery...

But best of all, tell people you trust more or less where you are going, 
and your planned route + intended return date/time, and whatever late 
tollerance figure you think, just in case of delays.  Then, if you don't 
appear, or contact them from elsewhere by any means, they can call the 
cavelry out.  Of course, if your plans change "on the fly" get a message 
back to them, to that effect...

Enjoy the outdoors, but stay safe.   If you have known medical issues 
(type one Diabeties for example) talk to your doctor before planning any 
extended trip out "into the sticks", just in case.

Given the choice, I'd prefer to ensure I can cary/find enough water & 
food, also perhaps a simple bivoac shelter kit for any significant hike 
out, also any needed indiginous venom antidotes etc, than carrying any 
Ham Radio gear I think.

Regards.

Dave G0WBX.

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] KE7X KRC2 app note

2013-07-01 Thread Cady, Fred

Hello all,
Well, the KE7X KRC2 app note is yet another unfinished project I need to get 
back on.

The KRC2 is a great little decoder box with tremendous flexibility in how you 
use it but it does require you to carefully study the schematic. Here are some 
of my more-or-less random observations. I hope to put these into a more 
cohesive form one of these days (soon).

KRC2 Outputs:
The KRC2 outputs can be used in high-side driver applications (where the 
external device needs + voltage) or low-side drivers (where the external device 
needs a signal pulled to ground). The KRC2 can do both simultaneously. Note 
that the high-side driver supplies +12 V when asserted but is NOT pulled to 
ground when it is not asserted. Similarly, the low-side drivers are not pulled 
up when not asserted.

There are 16 high-side and 16 low-side outputs. You can map them anyway you 
like (even to do a BCD output) but note that the mapping will be the same on 
the high-side and the low-side.

Although there isn't a native BCD coded output, you can make one by using the 
low-side drivers and supplying the needed pull-up in your external device 
(which is the way those devices should be designed anyway, but that's another 
story).

Using the AUXBUS:
As others have mentioned, the best way to use the KRC2 with the K3 is to use 
the AUXBUS output on the K3's ACC connector. A caveat is, like the KAT500, the 
KRC2 must be powered-up before the K3. If it isn't, the K3 will just sit there 
with a blank screen when you turn it on. That's very scary when it happens to 
you the first time! The reason that happens is that the KRC2 seems to load the 
AUXBUS down when it (the KRC2) is not powered-up. I'm not sure I understand 
why. Bottom line: Turn the KRC2 on first and keep it power-up.

Using the Serial Port:
Be very careful if you go this route. The problem is that the KRC2 was designed 
to use the K2's serial port, which if you recall, is a non-standard RS232 
interface. If you connect the KRC2 to a standard serial port with the standard 
RS232 signals RI, CTS, RTS, DSR, and DTR, AND with the KRC2's jumpers W11-W15 
connected you could (and probably will) damage the KRC2. Don't ask me how I 
know that. When jumpers W9, W10 and W22 are installed, the KRC2 can pass K3 
serial data on to a PC, for logging or other operating. If you want to do that, 
the K3's serial data must be 19.2 Kbaud. I haven't played with this mode enough 
to see how the P3's baud rate fits into the whole scheme.

Using the BCD Input:
The K3 does put out BCD band data on the ACC jack and this can be used with the 
KRC2. I don't see problems with this approach other than the known problems 
associated with the K3's internal pull-ups that limit the loading it can drive 
on the BCD outputs. I think the KRC2 will work OK but you might not want to 
have other loads from other decoders on these signals. I have yet to play with 
this mode.

Jack Brindle is a great and friendly resource for questions on the KRC2.

I'll get back onto this writing project one of these days as it gets warmer in 
MT and I take refuge in the coolness of my basement shack.

73 and cheers,
Fred KE7X



Fred Cady
"The Elecraft K3: Design, Configuration and Operation 2nd Edition"
"The Elecraft KX3 - Going for the Summit"
www.ke7x.com
Also available at www.lulu.com (possible discount code JULYBOOKS13)

fcady at ieee dot org
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] OT - Perfect Clock for your shack (KIT)

2013-07-01 Thread Terry Schieler

After you're caught up building everything Elecraft offers and still have that 
need for melting solder, this unique shack clock is available in KIT form!. 

Terry, W0FM

http://hackedgadgets.com/2010/06/23/multimeter-clock-styled-after-the-simpson-260-multimeter/



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 question

Don,

The manual says (on page 25 of rev C):

"The remaining four drivers, labeled A, B, C and D, are TTL-compatible
inputs or outputs depending on the operating mode. In normal KRC2 or
analog modes, the terminals are outputs. In digital parallel input
mode, they become inputs, and receive the BCD-encoded band data."

It doesn't specify that the output format is BCD, but I can't imagine
what else it would be...

73,

~iain / N6ML


On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 5:24 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> Joerg,
>
> The KRC2 can be configured to accept BCD data as input, but I see no
> reference that it provides BCD output.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 7/1/2013 8:05 AM, Jörg Rüschenschmidt wrote:
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I have two devices which requires band data.
>>
>>
>> 1.)Bandpass filter with 12 volt input lines per band
>>
>> 2.)Antenna switch which requires a BCD coded input for automatic
>> switching
>>
>>
>> My intention is to use KRC2 in serial mode. I understood from
>> documentation
>> BCD coded band data information will be available on J4 in serial mode.
>> However I am not sure about this topic.  My main interest is, could I use
>> one KRC2 to support both devices at the same time ?
>>
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Amp

2013-07-01 Thread Jim Brown


Exactly right, Dave.  I should have thought to mention this.

73, Jim K9YC

On 7/1/2013 6:27 AM, Dave B wrote:

Please remember, that battery makers specify the AH figure, for a typical
C/20 rate, (1/20th the nominal AH current value.)   Some may quote it at
C/10, check the data sheets for the battery of interest, they will often
have example of typical discharge voltage curves, for various discharge
rates too.  That can be*Very*  enlightening!

Without going into specifics, 20A from a 7AH battery may on the face of
it give you some 20 minutes operating (7 / 20 * 60) but in practice you'd
be lucky to get even near half that of actual "Practical Use" of your
amp'.   Probably no more than 5 mins TX time at most before it all starts
to collapse.


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 issues

I don't believe that there is any sort of "rig-control"-like protocol
for manipulating the functions of KRC2 over the serial port. It would
be nice, though! AFAIK, it only supports firmware and bandmap updates
(by transferring blobs of data).

73,

~iain / N6ML


On Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 10:54 PM, Stewart  wrote:
> I would like to supplement the KRC2 Configuration Utility with command links 
> to
> programs of my own.
>
> Although commands for the K2, K3, P3  etc are well documented, I can find
> nothing for the KRC2.
>
> Are these available, or must I do some reverse engineering ?
>
> 73
> Stewart G3RXQ
> On Fri, 28 Jun 2013 18:56:48 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> Wes,
>>
>> That is the KRC2 Configuration Utility which is quite different than the
>> firmware.  It is used to alter the band output selections if you wish
>> to.  Even though it is beta, it is the ONLY version, and it works - and
>> works quite well.  The developer will respond if you have any issues
>> with that beta.
>>
>> I could not discover any non-current firmware or software for the KRC2
>> that you seem to believe is still there - it just does not show up in my
>> browser.
>>
>> The KRC2 will work on the RS-232 bus, but you must limit the data rate
>> of the K3 to 19200 if the KRC2 is sitting on the RS-232 bus.
>> Actually, the KRC2 does more than just "sit" on the RS-232 line, it
>> actually relays data on that bus.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> On 6/28/2013 6:16 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:
>>> Don,
>>>
>>> That's one of the problems I'm exposing.  The Elecraft website is a mess.
>>>
>>> http://www.elecraft.com/software/KRC2/elecraft_KRC2_Config_software.htm
>>>
>>> They need to take a broom to the site and get rid of the detritus and "only"
> show what is currently supported and actually works.
>>>
>>> As I stated, I know the "preferred" method is using the aux bus, but if it's
> advertised that it can sit on the RS-232 bus then it should work there.  If 
> not,
> remove all references to RS-232, other than firmware installation.
>>>
>>> Wes
>>>
>>> --- On Fri, 6/28/13, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>>>
 From: Don Wilhelm 
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 issues
 To: "Wes Stewart" 
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Friday, June 28, 2013, 3:43 PM
 Wes,

 I just checked the Elecraft website, and see only 3 files
 for the KRC2 -
 KRC2 Download Program, KRC2 Firmware V1.6 and KRC2ACC
 Firmware V1.6.  No
 older levels and no beta.

 The F buttons behave differently in the KRC2ACC firmware, so
 if you want
 band selection via those buttons as indicated in the KRC2
 manual (not
 the KRC2ACC manual) you should load the KRC2 Firmware.

 What baud rate is your K3 set to.  The maximum rate for
 the KRC2 is
 19200, and the K3 must be set accordingly.

 The KRC2 behaves better as a band decoder if you connect it
 to the
 AUXBUS on the ACC connector and frees your K3 RS-232 to be
 used at the
 38400 rate.

 73,
 Don W3FPR
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>>
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>>
>>
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] KX3 for sale

2013-07-01 Thread Mike Mardis

KX3 #1877, factory assembled w/ EVERY accessory for sale. 
Includes the MH-3 and PRO-3 headset. 
Will be sold as a whole package only. 
Please send your best offer. 

Mike Mardis
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] HELP

2013-07-01 Thread Richard W Hemingway

Hi

I am new to the Elecraft.  I now have ERR KEY - what is it and how can I get 
rid of it? Thanks

Dick N5XRD
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] K1-4 kit posts?

2013-07-01 Thread Jim Hahn

Is there a simply way when searching on this e-mail list to search only for K1 
kit posts as this is my first Elecraft kit (the K1-4) after building Heathkits 
of old when I was 13-15 years old?   Thanks for your help guys as Elecraft now 
seems to be my replacement for Heathkits in the year 2013! jim  AC6OM/1 in 
Auburn,Maine




__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Amp

2013-07-01 Thread Mel Farrer

Which brings us full circle as to what is it you are trying to accomplish?  The 
ham with a KX3 and a chuck of wire will do (OK) on a hill top or by the 
ocean-side.  This works very well for the week end warriors etc.  Add a solar 
panel and the duration goes way up.  Add a resonant antenna not needing a 
ground and you gain again.  Add a small amp and suitable battery with upgraded 
solar panel and you go up again.  Add an RV with internal batteries, and the 
night goes on.  Anyone keeping score??  

Pick you battle and you will always be ahead.  If you try to win the war with 
entry level, you lose.  I personally pick my battles carefully and watch my 
allotted budget,   I win.  

Mel, K6KBE

 From: Ariel Jacala 
To: elecraft reflector  
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 3:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Amp

Jim is right in one sense that the 100w amp will consume battery life quickly.  
However, if what you want is the ability to get a signal out at marginal 
propagation conditions, then a 50 watt amp if  used frugally can get a stronger 
signal out.  Several amps fall into this category with about a 9 dB gain in 
signal strength from 5 watts - and pulling about 7-10 amps of drain on the 
battery on TX - Tokyo HiPower HL45B, HFPacker, and Hardrock50.  The latter 2 
you have to build yourself.  The Hardrock is only available used if someone is 
willing to part with theirs.  Only about 100 of the Hardrocks have been built.  
Sales are on hold pending FCC certification.  The Elecraft amp can also be 
tuned down for less power out and can be tuned to 100w if needed.  You do have 
to carry enough battery to sustain the anticipated TX time.  You will be 
surprised at how effective 5 or 10 watts can be and effort is probably better 
directed at effective antenna
 systems.  100w into a dummy load th
at radiates (my way of describing a poor antenna) is a poor substitute for 10 
watts into a resonant wire.  Up high and in the clear is always better.  I have 
always had better luck with wire in the clear than verticals on a picnic table 
in terms of reach.

Ariel NY4G

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 30, 2013, at 4:18 PM, "Jim Brown"  wrote:

> On 6/30/2013 4:42 AM, KF5TEU wrote:
>> Unfortunately , yes , I do need an amp. . We are going out over 200 mi. from
>> the nearest real town and if we need help then I would really love to get
>> through vs. be falsely proud of my QST skills that gets me nothing but dead
>> air
> 
> It's important to understand that the power to run an amp must come from MUCH 
> HEAVIER batteries that must be carried along with the radio.  Far better to 
> LEARN how antennas work, learn CW if you don't already know it, and carry the 
> wire and other light weight antenna accessories required to make reliable 
> contacts with stuff you CAN carry.
> 
> Putting some numbers to it, a 100W Elecraft rig requires 20A to transmit. A 
> 7Ah battery will give you 20 minutes of transmitting time at 100W, but it 
> will give you more than two HOURS at 5W.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] K3-schematic and 2-pole crystal-filter

2013-07-01 Thread Jerome Sodus

Hello,

 

I posted the work below to an eHam forum and one reply suggested posting to
this site.

Thru another reply I have already verified that my interpreting of the
K3-block-diagram is ok.

So, left unanswered is the reason for the 2-pole crystal-ladder-filter.

 

Hello,

I'm to give a talk to our club next month about "roofing-filters".
So, during my talk, I intend to show schematics for Yaesu's FT-5000 and
Elecraft's K3; I choose these two because of their pristine locations on
Sherwood's table.

I'd have no problem explaining the 5000's block-diagrams; seems to follow
the "expected script".

But, with the K3's schematic:

a) on its block-diagram (pg. 64), the five roofing-filters seem to not be in
the expected location of immediately after the 1st-mixer.
As I see it, the received signal-flow is...from the rec'r antenna, thru
LC-bandpass-filters, attenuators, +12dB amp, then the 1st-mixer, a +17dB
amp, the Noise-Blanker, finally the roofing-filters, and now an IF-amp, etc,
etc. Am I interpreting the block-diagram correctly?

b) on both dwg K3-RF-board and dwg KRX3-sub-rec'r, between the 1st-IF and
the 2nd-mixer, a 2-pole crystal-ladder-filter is labelled as having a BW=14
KHz. I'm mystified why this part is there, especially since any of the
preceding crystal-filters would have a significantly narrower bandwidth.
Hopefully, someone could explain this conundrum. Also, I was not able to
locate it on the block-diagram.

That's about as far as I got trying to piece together an understanding of
the K3-circuitry for now.
Thanks in advance for any replies.

73 Jerry KM3K

 

Thanks in advance for any replies.

BTW, I'm only just a few hundred dollars short of buying the KX3.

73 Jerry-KM3K

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] HELP

On Sat, Jun 29, 2013 at 12:50 PM, Richard W Hemingway
 wrote:
> I am new to the Elecraft.  I now have ERR KEY - what is it and how can I get 
> rid of it? Thanks

It means that something is asserting (CW) key-down when the rig is
turned on. Disconnect everything (except power) and power on - do you
still get the error?

73,

~iain / N6ML
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] FS: Elecraft T1 ATU

2013-07-01 Thread Tom Witherspoon

Hi, All,

I'm selling my Elecraft T1 portable ATU. I purchased this T1 directly from
Elecraft, factory assembled & tested. This T1 is in excellent condition and
operates perfectly. Though I can't identify any obvious scratches, assume
it could have some very slight ones. Selling because both my KX1 and KX3
now have built-in ATUs.

I only used this tuner for a couple of months, so it has seen very little
use. Comes with owner's manual and original 9V battery (that still works)!
Non-smoking home. It will be packaged carefully and shipped USPS Priority
Mail.
Price: $145 (shipping included) PayPal.

If interested, please reply off-list.  Thanks!

Cheers,
Tom
K4SWL
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] Re; KPA500 - AC hum in the monitor

2013-07-01 Thread Bill Wiehe

Jack,
Just a shot in the dark but are you using 220 or 110 to power your KAP500?
73,
Bill - W0BBI
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] KX3 Macro command

2013-07-01 Thread Ronald Herman

There is a command, RX, to turn off the receiver attenuator and NB command
for the noise blanker... Is there a similar way to turn off the preamp
and/or NR... I'd like to clear these conditions in a CLEANUP macro on PF1.
If not, could there be?
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] K3/100 Diversity receive

2013-07-01 Thread ku2c



New (ish) owner of a K3/100 with KAT3 and sub receiver. When I assembled it I 
fed the sub receiver from the KAT3. 


I have a vertical and a wire loop connected to ANT1 and ANT2 respectively. 
Given the numerous warnings in the manual I'm wondering if this a safe 
configuration for diversity receive mode ? I'm thinking I'm behind the T/R 
relay and therefore I'm safer this way than using the AUX input or the REC ANT 
input ? 


Hope so as I want to be able to use either antenna for transmit and/or receive. 


Thanks for your comments, 


Pete // KU2C 



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna

2013-07-01 Thread Randy Cook

I would appreciate any help from the group on my unusual antenna situation. Not 
really Elecraft related, so OK to respond off line.

Recently, we had to gut our back yard, as several Redwood trees were 
undermining a retaining wall.  Bad situation. So, the trees had to go, and with 
them my antenna supports!  I now have essentially a 50ft by 30ft yard with 6ft 
fences on the three sides, house and porch on the fourth. Some hardscape 
prevents long radials.  For aesthetic reasons, I don't have a tower or tall 
supports.  My first shot was a fiberglass pole, at about 34ft, with a wire up 
the middle. Terminates in the base to an MFJ antenna autotuner.  I placed the 
pole a few feet from the corner of the lot where, when painted, blends into a 
neighbors tree behind, and is an barely visible from the street. 

My limitations are the radial field. I did some research, and started with 8 
wires, varying from 15' to 35' in a 100 degree spread on the flower beds and 
small lawn.  Another ham suggested elevated radials as an alternative, so I 
tried two 35' radials at 90 deg angles along two fence sides, about 4' off the 
ground. Much of what I read was from hams with big lots and dozens of radial in 
all directions. Couldn't find much on my situation.

Conditions have not been that good, and other commitments have prevented much 
testing.  I have some time now and want to find the best solution.  Questions 
for the group--

Give the limits on the radial field (90-110 degrees, limited length) is 10 
buried better than 2 elevated?
 
Does it make sense to use BOTH elevated and buried?

Some prelim testing, using some SE Asia DX stations, showed little difference 
in the receive signal strength switching in either or both radial plans.  I 
plan on using some on air events this week to gather signal strength reports on 
my transmissions. 

Any thoughts?


73

Randy Cook - K6CRC
K3 #2051
k6cr...@gmail.com




__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 Diversity receive

2013-07-01 Thread Jim Bennett

Pete - that sounds pretty much like what I'm doing. I have the sub-rx; Ant1 
normally goes to main, Ant2 to the sub-rx. My Ant2 is a ground mounted Hustler 
5BTV vertical, Ant1 is switchable to an 88 foot doublet, an 80 meter Inverted 
L, or a 160 meter Inverted L. Also am running an AL811 amp at times with about 
500 watts out - have not had any issues with this config. However, when I'm on 
80 or 160 with the two L antennas, I'm not using diversity mode. When I'm on 
40-10 however, I do use diversity.

Jim / W6JHB

On   Monday, Jul 1, 2013, at  Monday, 9:08 AM, k...@comcast.net wrote:

> 
> 
> New (ish) owner of a K3/100 with KAT3 and sub receiver. When I assembled it I 
> fed the sub receiver from the KAT3. 
> 
> 
> I have a vertical and a wire loop connected to ANT1 and ANT2 respectively. 
> Given the numerous warnings in the manual I'm wondering if this a safe 
> configuration for diversity receive mode ? I'm thinking I'm behind the T/R 
> relay and therefore I'm safer this way than using the AUX input or the REC 
> ANT input ? 
> 
> 
> Hope so as I want to be able to use either antenna for transmit and/or 
> receive. 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your comments, 
> 
> 
> Pete // KU2C 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna

2013-07-01 Thread Jim Bennett

Randy,

Also a CA ham, but a bit to the east of you, up here in Folsom. We've got 
several redwoods and they serve me well for an 88 foot doublet at 45 feet, and 
two Inverted L's - one for 80 and one for 160. However, I use the K3's 
diversity receive a LOT and for my other antenna, I have a ground mounted 
Hustler 5BTV. Our back yard is kinda sucky for antennas - large concrete patio 
and a fairly large pool. The grassy area is about 40 x 20. The XYL (also a ham 
- KF6ZNT) "allowed" me to mount the vertical in the grass area. Not in the 
middle, as we've got two kids, but not too far from it. I installed a 
DX-engineering vertical radial plate and tilt-over vertical assembly for the 
5BTV. Since I'm pretty limited radial-wise, I did the best I could: I ran 40 of 
them from that radial plate across the entire yard. Not all are straight. Some 
are 25-30 feet long, some are only 6 feet long. All were put into the grass and 
held down with metal "clips" - u-shaped things about five inches or so lo
 ng. Within a year, the grass completely grew over the wires and I no longer 
see any of them. 

For a few months, I used this vertical as my transmit AND receive antenna. Not 
as good as a yagi at 150 feet, but it works and I made plenty of QSO's!! So, 
you'll probably do fine with buried radials - the more, the merrier in your 
case.

As a side note - we'd started getting gophers digging through the back yard 
grass. Apparently they didn't take too kindly to all those steel clips  being 
placed in the grass - after I put in the radials, the gophers moved out!

Jim / W6JHB


On   Monday, Jul 1, 2013, at  Monday, 9:30 AM, Randy Cook wrote:

> I would appreciate any help from the group on my unusual antenna situation. 
> Not really Elecraft related, so OK to respond off line.
> 
> Recently, we had to gut our back yard, as several Redwood trees were 
> undermining a retaining wall.  Bad situation. So, the trees had to go, and 
> with them my antenna supports!  I now have essentially a 50ft by 30ft yard 
> with 6ft fences on the three sides, house and porch on the fourth. Some 
> hardscape prevents long radials.  For aesthetic reasons, I don't have a tower 
> or tall supports.  My first shot was a fiberglass pole, at about 34ft, with a 
> wire up the middle. Terminates in the base to an MFJ antenna autotuner.  I 
> placed the pole a few feet from the corner of the lot where, when painted, 
> blends into a neighbors tree behind, and is an barely visible from the 
> street. 
> 
> My limitations are the radial field. I did some research, and started with 8 
> wires, varying from 15' to 35' in a 100 degree spread on the flower beds and 
> small lawn.  Another ham suggested elevated radials as an alternative, so I 
> tried two 35' radials at 90 deg angles along two fence sides, about 4' off 
> the ground. Much of what I read was from hams with big lots and dozens of 
> radial in all directions. Couldn't find much on my situation.
> 
> Conditions have not been that good, and other commitments have prevented much 
> testing.  I have some time now and want to find the best solution.  Questions 
> for the group--
> 
> Give the limits on the radial field (90-110 degrees, limited length) is 10 
> buried better than 2 elevated?
> 
> Does it make sense to use BOTH elevated and buried?
> 
> Some prelim testing, using some SE Asia DX stations, showed little difference 
> in the receive signal strength switching in either or both radial plans.  I 
> plan on using some on air events this week to gather signal strength reports 
> on my transmissions. 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> 73
> 
> Randy Cook - K6CRC
> K3 #2051
> k6cr...@gmail.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna

2013-07-01 Thread Mike WA8BXN

Randy, 
 
I think elevated radials need to be tuned, that is a particular length for a
given band. If you will be operating multiple bands, a set is needed for
each band. Radials on or under ground do not need to be a particular length
to work (more and longer is probably always good). 
 
What band(s) do you want to operate? If 20 meters, you might consider an end
fed half wave vertical that would not need much ground system. 
 
73 - Mike WA8BXN 
 
 
---Original Message--- 
 
From: Randy Cook 
Date: 07/01/13 12:30:28 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna 
 
I would appreciate any help from the group on my unusual antenna situation.
Not really Elecraft related, so OK to respond off line. 
 
Recently, we had to gut our back yard, as several Redwood trees were
undermining a retaining wall. Bad situation. So, the trees had to go, and
with them my antenna supports! I now have essentially a 50ft by 30ft yard
with 6ft fences on the three sides, house and porch on the fourth. Some
hardscape prevents long radials. For aesthetic reasons, I don't have a tower
or tall supports. My first shot was a fiberglass pole, at about 34ft, with a
wire up the middle. Terminates in the base to an MFJ antenna autotuner. I
placed the pole a few feet from the corner of the lot where, when painted,
blends into a neighbors tree behind, and is an barely visible from the
street. 
 
My limitations are the radial field. I did some research, and started with 8
wires, varying from 15' to 35' in a 100 degree spread on the flower beds and
small lawn. Another ham suggested elevated radials as an alternative, so I
tried two 35' radials at 90 deg angles along two fence sides, about 4' off
the ground. Much of what I read was from hams with big lots and dozens of
radial in all directions. Couldn't find much on my situation. 
 
Conditions have not been that good, and other commitments have prevented
much testing. I have some time now and want to find the best solution.
Questions for the group-- 
 
Give the limits on the radial field (90-110 degrees, limited length) is 10
buried better than 2 elevated? 
 
Does it make sense to use BOTH elevated and buried? 
 
Some prelim testing, using some SE Asia DX stations, showed little
difference in the receive signal strength switching in either or both radial
plans. I plan on using some on air events this week to gather signal
strength reports on my transmissions. 
 
Any thoughts? 
 
 
73 
 
Randy Cook - K6CRC 
K3 #2051 
k6cr...@gmail.com 
 
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Amp

2013-07-01 Thread Igor Sokolov

Another correction. HLA 300 (and probably 150) have RF sensing PTT and 
automatic band switching. They also have decent IMD is not driven to full 
output power. HLA 300 is about 25-30 db IMD when driven to 150-200 watts 
(5-7watt input) and cost under 500 USD. No antenna tuner though.


73, Igor UA9CDC
- Original Message - 
From: "John Marvin" 

To: 
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2013 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Amp


One correction. The HF Packer is not a 50w amp. It's about 45w at 160m, 
and then steadily less as you go up in frequency (40w for 80m, 35w for 
40-20m, 30w for 17/15m, 25w for 12m and about 20w for 10m). It doesn't 
support 6m. These numbers come directly from a graph in the HF Packer 
manual.


John
AC0ZG

On 6/30/2013 10:18 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
Hands down the KXPA100.  It isn't out yet - shipping in August but offers 
the greatest flexibility with a tuner and portability.  The Hardrock is 
~$260.  It is only available to members of the Yahoo group right now.  It 
is 160-6m and generates a solid 50w from 160-10, less on 6m.  I own a 
Hardrock and it was a difficult build but Jim Veatch helped me out a 
lot - WA2EUJ.  No tuner though so you will have to invest in a ZL100 or 
equivalent.  The Elecraft tuner is  faster and tunes a wider range.  Size 
wise is only slightly smaller than the Elecraft 4 1/8 wide and tall by 7 
deep.  The TenTec is a larger amp - $800 plus a 100w tuner.   The THP 
HL45B is a solid performer at about $450 from HRO.  Again you need an 
outboard tuner.  You have to manually switch bands.  If you don't it will 
go on standby - a self protective feature.  I played with a THP for a 
while and it works well.  You can get one used - not easy - for about 
$250-$300.  There are the RM Italy variants - beware do

no
  t overdrive - IMD artifacts - HL300B is the model - only drive to 
100W - I have no experience with this amp. These are not certified by the 
FCC.   Some people have had great luck with the Juma 100w amp and some on 
the reflector may have owned one or built one.  The Jumas can be 
programmed to band switch with the rig.  Again - it needs an external 
100w tuner.


So here are your choices:

Juma 100w - no tuner - band switches with rig automatic - FCC certified
Hardrock 50w - no tuner - manual switching - not FCC certified
TenTec - 100w - no tuner - band switching with rig automatic
HFPacker - 50w - manual swiching
KXPA100 - 100w - tuner - automatic band switching - FCC certified
THP HL45B - 45w - no tuner - manual switching (except for FT817) - FCC 
certified

THP HL100B - 10w - no tuner - manual switching - not FCC certified
RM Italy HL150 - 150w - no tuner - manual switching? not FCC certified
RM Italy HL300B = 300w - no tuner - manual switching? not FCC cerified

Antennas
Too many to list
Personal favorites - G0GSF- multiband dipole - 4 bands are OK w/o a 
tuner, EFHW - cut to 45 ft with EARCI matchbox KX3 tuner will match 
80-10m

  Ariel NY4G
Sent from my iPad

On Jun 30, 2013, at 11:39 PM, "KF5TEU"  wrote:

While all these posts have good advice for a bc trip , I really just 
want the KX3 amplifier. I have the other items already ( Delorme GPS 
plus SPOT with rescue insurance paid up, sat. phone rented , several 2M 
HT's ( APRS godd idea , I'll add that ) and the usual flares , panels , 
noisemakers and things that go bang ) .



But...I need an amplifier and the right antennas to add to this.
We will be doing the check in via SPOT , sat. AND am. band.
SPOT loses lock in jungle and mountain ,vso do sat. phones and GPS.
Certain unfriendlies like to jam their freq's as well.
In addition to that any or all that gear can be broken , lost or 
confiscated by certain sticky fingered locals ( it.s happened ).

Hard to jam 6M-160M all the time though.
I am not "shouting in the dark" for rescue.  We have several pre-planned 
operators standing by with preplanned times and frequencies and backup 
frequencies.
But, they are also mobile or may have interference so I want the best 
chance at a clear signal both ways.

There are no repeaters out there.
This is in Africa.

Please , any KX3 amplifier advice ?
Ten-Tec , Hardrock , etc. , which specific models with setup/operating 
tips ?

Greatly appreciated !

Bill"ny4g [via Elecraft]"  
wrote:Some HT's have GPS and with APRS one can send messages.  I have 
used it on hikes so my wife can track me on the internet as I hike.  The 
HT sends a beacon signal out and the movement can be tracked through 
APRS.fi   Any Ham can get an APRS account.I have even used APRS on 
my iPhone for the same tracking capability.  Remote from civilization 
though you would need an HT with APRS like the VX8R by Yaesu or a 
TinyTrack tracker.  With the HT however, you can call for help and the 
reach can be substantial depending on elevation or having a nearby 
repeater.  Having worked 45 states on Field Day just using a KX3 and a 
G0GSF dipole, I have no qualms with getting out and reaching people with 
a KX3 on HF.  When the

Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Macro command

On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 8:54 AM, Ronald Herman  wrote:
> There is a command, RX, to turn off the receiver attenuator and NB command
> for the noise blanker... Is there a similar way to turn off the preamp
> and/or NR... I'd like to clear these conditions in a CLEANUP macro on PF1.
> If not, could there be?

The preamp can be turned off with 'PA0;', but (AFAIK), NR can only be
toggled, with a 'SWH19;',- not explicitly turned off.

See the "K3 and KX3 Programmers Reference"
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3&KX3%20Pgmrs%20Ref,%20E6.pdf

BTW, 'RX;' does not turn off the attenuator - it just places the rig
in receive mode. Use 'RA00;' to turn off the attenuator.

73,

~iain / N6ML
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] FW: KE7X KRC2 app note

2013-07-01 Thread Cady, Fred

Thanks John, that's great information. How is the KRC2 receiving the band data? 
Via the AUXBUS?
Thanks,
Fred

(And thanks Ian for:

"The manual says (on page 25 of rev C):



"The remaining four drivers, labeled A, B, C and D, are TTL-compatible

inputs or outputs depending on the operating mode. In normal KRC2 or

analog modes, the terminals are outputs. In digital parallel input

mode, they become inputs, and receive the BCD-encoded band data."



It doesn't specify that the output format is BCD, but I can't imagine

what else it would be...



73,



~iain / N6ML
"



Fred Cady
fcady at ieee dot org
From: John D'Ausilio [mailto:jdausi...@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2013 8:42 AM
To: Cady, Fred
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KE7X KRC2 app note

Hi Fred .. I beg to differ with you re: BCD outputs from ABCD terminals. Absent 
any overriding configuration (like analog inputs), the ABCD terminals do in 
fact output BCD band info. I know this because I've been using those outputs to 
drive my microwave LO synthesizer for the last 4 years :)

de w1rt/john

On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 9:24 AM, Cady, Fred 
mailto:fc...@ece.montana.edu>> wrote:
Hello all,
Well, the KE7X KRC2 app note is yet another unfinished project I need to get 
back on.

The KRC2 is a great little decoder box with tremendous flexibility in how you 
use it but it does require you to carefully study the schematic. Here are some 
of my more-or-less random observations. I hope to put these into a more 
cohesive form one of these days (soon).

KRC2 Outputs:
The KRC2 outputs can be used in high-side driver applications (where the 
external device needs + voltage) or low-side drivers (where the external device 
needs a signal pulled to ground). The KRC2 can do both simultaneously. Note 
that the high-side driver supplies +12 V when asserted but is NOT pulled to 
ground when it is not asserted. Similarly, the low-side drivers are not pulled 
up when not asserted.

There are 16 high-side and 16 low-side outputs. You can map them anyway you 
like (even to do a BCD output) but note that the mapping will be the same on 
the high-side and the low-side.

Although there isn't a native BCD coded output, you can make one by using the 
low-side drivers and supplying the needed pull-up in your external device 
(which is the way those devices should be designed anyway, but that's another 
story).

Using the AUXBUS:
As others have mentioned, the best way to use the KRC2 with the K3 is to use 
the AUXBUS output on the K3's ACC connector. A caveat is, like the KAT500, the 
KRC2 must be powered-up before the K3. If it isn't, the K3 will just sit there 
with a blank screen when you turn it on. That's very scary when it happens to 
you the first time! The reason that happens is that the KRC2 seems to load the 
AUXBUS down when it (the KRC2) is not powered-up. I'm not sure I understand 
why. Bottom line: Turn the KRC2 on first and keep it power-up.

Using the Serial Port:
Be very careful if you go this route. The problem is that the KRC2 was designed 
to use the K2's serial port, which if you recall, is a non-standard RS232 
interface. If you connect the KRC2 to a standard serial port with the standard 
RS232 signals RI, CTS, RTS, DSR, and DTR, AND with the KRC2's jumpers W11-W15 
connected you could (and probably will) damage the KRC2. Don't ask me how I 
know that. When jumpers W9, W10 and W22 are installed, the KRC2 can pass K3 
serial data on to a PC, for logging or other operating. If you want to do that, 
the K3's serial data must be 19.2 Kbaud. I haven't played with this mode enough 
to see how the P3's baud rate fits into the whole scheme.

Using the BCD Input:
The K3 does put out BCD band data on the ACC jack and this can be used with the 
KRC2. I don't see problems with this approach other than the known problems 
associated with the K3's internal pull-ups that limit the loading it can drive 
on the BCD outputs. I think the KRC2 will work OK but you might not want to 
have other loads from other decoders on these signals. I have yet to play with 
this mode.

Jack Brindle is a great and friendly resource for questions on the KRC2.

I'll get back onto this writing project one of these days as it gets warmer in 
MT and I take refuge in the coolness of my basement shack.

73 and cheers,
Fred KE7X



Fred Cady
"The Elecraft K3: Design, Configuration and Operation 2nd Edition"
"The Elecraft KX3 - Going for the Summit"
www.ke7x.com
Also available at www.lulu.com (possible discount code 
JULYBOOKS13)

fcady at ieee dot org
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] K1 Flickering ATTN LED

2013-07-01 Thread Richard Crispi

I recently completed building a K1 and have made several contacts.  I'm
still learning the radio and noticed that when I change the LCD display
from normal (nor) to voltmeter (bat) the ATTN LED dimly and rapidly
flickers.  It doesn't matter if I'm using a battery for power or a DC
supply.  When I switch back to S-meter or normal mode the flickering stops.
 Operation is not affected.

Can I just ignore this or does it warrant further investigation?
Regards,
Rich K1YRW
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Macro command

2013-07-01 Thread Ronald Herman

Question answered.. I missed the "PA" command in the programmer
reference... Nothing for NR function. And I had a typo it was RA not RX
in my original posting.

-- 
Ron Herman
rtherma...@gmail.com
sent from gmail.com  web site
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] Fwd: FS: Elecraft T1 ATU

2013-07-01 Thread Tom Witherspoon

The Elecraft T1 ATU has sold. Thanks!
Thomas
K4SWL


*Hi, All,

I'm selling my Elecraft T1 portable ATU. I purchased this T1 directly from
Elecraft, factory assembled & tested. This T1 is in excellent condition and
operates perfectly. Though I can't identify any obvious scratches, assume
it could have some very slight ones. Selling because both my KX1 and KX3
now have built-in ATUs.

I only used this tuner for a couple of months, so it has seen very little
use. Comes with owner's manual and original 9V battery (that still works)!
Non-smoking home. It will be packaged carefully and shipped USPS Priority
Mail.
Price: $145 (shipping included) PayPal.*
*
*
*If interested, please reply off-list.  Thanks!

Cheers,
Tom
K4SWL*
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna

2013-07-01 Thread Matt Zilmer

Elevated radials are better than buried, but more radials are better
than a few or none.  A good minimum number (for each band) would be 8.
Many studies on this have shown many more than 8 per band (like > 25)
is much better and, of course, much harder and expensive to field.

I have a 33' vertical made of heavywall aluminum that has 7 radials
for 40m and another 7 for 15m.  It works well enough, but generally I
use it as an RX ANT for the K3's sub rx.  In my own case, the radials
are buried for aesthetic reasons.  Plus, I don't want to need to duck
down when mowing.  There is no ATU at the base of this vertical.

When using this antenna for RMS Winmor (for Navy-Marine Corps MARS)
just below 40m, it had no trouble handling all states west of the
Mississippi with 150W drive.

I would say that you should do what you can to maximize the radial
count, even if it means changing your location plan.

73,
matt W6NIA


On Mon, 01 Jul 2013 09:30:09 -0700, you wrote:

>I would appreciate any help from the group on my unusual antenna situation. 
>Not really Elecraft related, so OK to respond off line.
>
>Recently, we had to gut our back yard, as several Redwood trees were 
>undermining a retaining wall.  
Bad situation. So, the trees had to go, and with them my antenna
supports!  I now have essentially a 50ft by 30ft yard with 6ft fences
on the three sides, house and porch on the fourth. Some hardscape
prevents long radials.  For aesthetic reasons, I don't have a tower or
tall supports.  My first shot was a fiberglass pole, at about 34ft,
with a wire up the middle. Terminates in the base to an MFJ antenna
autotuner.  I placed the pole a few feet from the corner of the lot
where, when painted, blends into a neighbors tree behind, and is an
barely visible from the street. 
>
>My limitations are the radial field. I did some research, and started with 8 
>wires, varying from
 15' to 35' in a 100 degree spread on the flower beds and small lawn.
Another ham suggested elevated radials as an alternative, so I tried
two 35' radials at 90 deg angles along two fence sides, about 4' off
the ground. Much of what I read was from hams with big lots and dozens
of radial in all directions. Couldn't find much on my situation.
>
>Conditions have not been that good, and other commitments have prevented much 
>testing. 
 I have some time now and want to find the best solution.  Questions
for the group--
>
>Give the limits on the radial field (90-110 degrees, limited length) is 10 
>buried better than 2 elevated?
> 
>Does it make sense to use BOTH elevated and buried?
>
>Some prelim testing, using some SE Asia DX stations, showed little difference 
>in the receive signal
 strength switching in either or both radial plans.  I plan on using
some on air events this week to gather signal strength reports on my
transmissions. 
>
>Any thoughts?
>
>
>73
>
>Randy Cook - K6CRC
>K3 #2051
>k6cr...@gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>__
>Elecraft mailing list
>Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
>This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] I want to swap K3 5 pole 500Hz filters to get better match

2013-07-01 Thread Jarmo Blomster

Hi,

I have a K3 500Hz of the five pole filters for offsets -0.84 and -0.78.
I would like to swap those with somebody so that we both get a better
matched pair for main and sub rx.

Both my filters are quite new, the main rx serial number is 6913 and sub rx
is installed in last week. My fault was not to order matched filter for the
subrx.

73 de oh8kva/oh9vd Jarmo
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] K3-schematic and 2-pole crystal-filter

2013-07-01 Thread Al Lorona

Hi, Jerry,

That 2-pole filter is probably there to eliminate any wideband noise that might 
be generated in the 1st IF amp. It's a good receiver design technique.

R,

Al  W6LX





>
> From: Jerome Sodus 
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
>Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 5:35 AM
>Subject: [Elecraft] K3-schematic and 2-pole crystal-filter
> 
>
>Hello,
>
>
>
>I posted the work below to an eHam forum and one reply suggested posting to
>this site.
>
>Thru another reply I have already verified that my interpreting of the
>K3-block-diagram is ok.
>
>So, left unanswered is the reason for the 2-pole crystal-ladder-filter.
>
>
>
>Hello,
>
>I'm to give a talk to our club next month about "roofing-filters".
>So, during my talk, I intend to show schematics for Yaesu's FT-5000 and
>Elecraft's K3; I choose these two because of their pristine locations on
>Sherwood's table.
>
>I'd have no problem explaining the 5000's block-diagrams; seems to follow
>the "expected script".
>
>But, with the K3's schematic:
>
>a) on its block-diagram (pg. 64), the five roofing-filters seem to not be in
>the expected location of immediately after the 1st-mixer.
>As I see it, the received signal-flow is...from the rec'r antenna, thru
>LC-bandpass-filters, attenuators, +12dB amp, then the 1st-mixer, a +17dB
>amp, the Noise-Blanker, finally the roofing-filters, and now an IF-amp, etc,
>etc. Am I interpreting the block-diagram correctly?
>
>b) on both dwg K3-RF-board and dwg KRX3-sub-rec'r, between the 1st-IF and
>the 2nd-mixer, a 2-pole crystal-ladder-filter is labelled as having a BW=14
>KHz. I'm mystified why this part is there, especially since any of the
>preceding crystal-filters would have a significantly narrower bandwidth.
>Hopefully, someone could explain this conundrum. Also, I was not able to
>locate it on the block-diagram.
>
>That's about as far as I got trying to piece together an understanding of
>the K3-circuitry for now.
>Thanks in advance for any replies.
>
>73 Jerry KM3K
>
>
>
>Thanks in advance for any replies.
>
>BTW, I'm only just a few hundred dollars short of buying the KX3.
>
>73 Jerry-KM3K
>
>__
>Elecraft mailing list
>Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
>This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna

2013-07-01 Thread John Oppenheimer

Hi Randy,

I have plotted several of the ground radial count versus loss studies.
http://www.kn5l.net/GroundRadialStudy/#figure2

A plot of minimum radial length versus number of radials is:
http://www.kn5l.net/GroundRadialStudy/#figure4

The above may help you with your antenna selection.

John KN5L
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] K1 Flickering ATTN LED

2013-07-01 Thread Mike Morrow

Rich wrote:

> I recently completed building a K1 and have made several contacts.  I'm
> still learning the radio and noticed that when I change the LCD display
> from normal (nor) to voltmeter (bat) the ATTN LED dimly and rapidly
> flickers...
>  
> Can I just ignore this or does it warrant further investigation?

It's completely normal.

The best technical explanation was given by Don Brown in a posting
made here on 02 December 2002:

> ... The DVM and and ATTN light use the same pin on the MPU so the
> ATTN light will flicker when the MPU reprograms the pin as an input
> so it can read the battery voltage. Then changes it back to an output
> to drive the ATTN circuit.  The time needed to read the battery
> voltage is very short but long enough to make the ATTN light flicker.

The K1 is a fantastic little radio.  Mine is number 175, November 2000,
and it is still my favorite after almost 13 years.

73,
Mike / KK5F

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] FW: KE7X KRC2 app note

2013-07-01 Thread Wes Stewart

I just looked at mine, which at the moment is on the AUXBUS.

The outputs are BCD with a twist.

160m -> BCD = 1
80m  -> BCD = 2
60m  -> BCD = 10
40m  -> BCD = 3
30m  -> BCD = 4
20m  -> BCD = 5
17m  -> BCD = 6
15m  -> BCD = 7
12m  -> BCD = 8
10m  -> BCD = 9
6m   -> BCD = 11 if CONFIG:KRC Band6=B6
6m   -> BCD = 9  if CONFIG:KRC Band6=B10  Note conflict with 10m.

When Band6=B10, the XV1 output is inactive, when it is Band5=B6, the XV1 output 
is active, which I consider "normal."

Also note the "Band6" display is what shows after a tap of the "1" key.  It's 
always unclear to me whether the display indicates what's going to happen after 
the key press or the current state of the parameter.  I'm assuming the latter.

Wes  N7WS


--- On Mon, 7/1/13, Cady, Fred  wrote:

> From: Cady, Fred 
> Subject: [Elecraft] FW:  KE7X KRC2 app note
> To: "'Elecraft Reflector'" 
> Date: Monday, July 1, 2013, 11:12 AM
> Thanks John, that's great
> information. How is the KRC2 receiving the band data? Via
> the AUXBUS?
> Thanks,
> Fred
> 
> (And thanks Ian for:
> 
> "The manual says (on page 25 of rev C):
> 
> 
> 
> "The remaining four drivers, labeled A, B, C and D, are
> TTL-compatible
> 
> inputs or outputs depending on the operating mode. In normal
> KRC2 or
> 
> analog modes, the terminals are outputs. In digital parallel
> input
> 
> mode, they become inputs, and receive the BCD-encoded band
> data."
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't specify that the output format is BCD, but I
> can't imagine
> 
> what else it would be...
> 
> 
> 
> 73,
> 
> 
> 
>     ~iain / N6ML
> "
> 
> 
> 
> Fred Cady
> fcady at ieee dot org
> From: John D'Ausilio [mailto:jdausi...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, July 01, 2013 8:42 AM
> To: Cady, Fred
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KE7X KRC2 app note
> 
> Hi Fred .. I beg to differ with you re: BCD outputs from
> ABCD terminals. Absent any overriding configuration (like
> analog inputs), the ABCD terminals do in fact output BCD
> band info. I know this because I've been using those outputs
> to drive my microwave LO synthesizer for the last 4 years
> :)
> 
> de w1rt/john
> 
> On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 9:24 AM, Cady, Fred 
> mailto:fc...@ece.montana.edu>>
> wrote:
> Hello all,
> Well, the KE7X KRC2 app note is yet another unfinished
> project I need to get back on.
> 
> The KRC2 is a great little decoder box with tremendous
> flexibility in how you use it but it does require you to
> carefully study the schematic. Here are some of my
> more-or-less random observations. I hope to put these into a
> more cohesive form one of these days (soon).
> 
> KRC2 Outputs:
> The KRC2 outputs can be used in high-side driver
> applications (where the external device needs + voltage) or
> low-side drivers (where the external device needs a signal
> pulled to ground). The KRC2 can do both simultaneously. Note
> that the high-side driver supplies +12 V when asserted but
> is NOT pulled to ground when it is not asserted. Similarly,
> the low-side drivers are not pulled up when not asserted.
> 
> There are 16 high-side and 16 low-side outputs. You can map
> them anyway you like (even to do a BCD output) but note that
> the mapping will be the same on the high-side and the
> low-side.
> 
> Although there isn't a native BCD coded output, you can make
> one by using the low-side drivers and supplying the needed
> pull-up in your external device (which is the way those
> devices should be designed anyway, but that's another
> story).
> 
> Using the AUXBUS:
> As others have mentioned, the best way to use the KRC2 with
> the K3 is to use the AUXBUS output on the K3's ACC
> connector. A caveat is, like the KAT500, the KRC2 must be
> powered-up before the K3. If it isn't, the K3 will just sit
> there with a blank screen when you turn it on. That's very
> scary when it happens to you the first time! The reason that
> happens is that the KRC2 seems to load the AUXBUS down when
> it (the KRC2) is not powered-up. I'm not sure I understand
> why. Bottom line: Turn the KRC2 on first and keep it
> power-up.
> 
> Using the Serial Port:
> Be very careful if you go this route. The problem is that
> the KRC2 was designed to use the K2's serial port, which if
> you recall, is a non-standard RS232 interface. If you
> connect the KRC2 to a standard serial port with the standard
> RS232 signals RI, CTS, RTS, DSR, and DTR, AND with the
> KRC2's jumpers W11-W15 connected you could (and probably
> will) damage the KRC2. Don't ask me how I know that. When
> jumpers W9, W10 and W22 are installed, the KRC2 can pass K3
> serial data on to a PC, for logging or other operating. If
> you want to do that, the K3's serial data must be 19.2
> Kbaud. I haven't played with this mode enough to see how the
> P3's baud rate fits into the whole scheme.
> 
> Using the BCD Input:
> The K3 does put out BCD band data on the ACC jack and this
> can be used with the KRC2. I don't see problems with this
> approach other than the known problems associated with the
> K3's internal pull-ups that

[Elecraft] KPA -- Dead on Assembly

I finished putting together the KPA 500 kit this weekend.  Everything 
seemed to go smoothly.  However, upon plugging it in to the mains it 
will not turn on.  I've checked the safety switch mechanism on the top 
and it does properly depress the switch.  I've also checked the switch 
itself which is OK.  The switch on the back of the unit is also in the 
"on" position.  But, pushing the "on button" on the front does 
absolutely nothing.  Where should I look next to trouble shoot this problem?


Tnxs & 73,

Carl

==
Carl Jón Denbow, N8VZ

17 Coventry Lane
Athens, Ohio 45701-3718
EM89wh

http://www.n8vz.com
c...@n8vz.com
==
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KPA -- Dead on Assembly

2013-07-01 Thread Tim Hague

Carl, sounds obvious but did you check the fuse?

Best regards, Tim Hague
Skype m0afj.Tim
Sent on my iPad


On 1 Jul 2013, at 20:07, Carl Jón Denbow  wrote:

> I finished putting together the KPA 500 kit this weekend.  Everything seemed 
> to go smoothly.  However, upon plugging it in to the mains it will not turn 
> on.  I've checked the safety switch mechanism on the top and it does properly 
> depress the switch.  I've also checked the switch itself which is OK.  The 
> switch on the back of the unit is also in the "on" position.  But, pushing 
> the "on button" on the front does absolutely nothing.  Where should I look 
> next to trouble shoot this problem?
> 
> Tnxs & 73,
> 
> Carl
> 
> ==
> Carl Jón Denbow, N8VZ
> 
> 17 Coventry Lane
> Athens, Ohio 45701-3718
> EM89wh
> 
> http://www.n8vz.com
> c...@n8vz.com
> ==
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] K3-schematic and 2-pole crystal-filter

2013-07-01 Thread Wes Stewart

Except the K3 i-f amplifier is fairly low gain, that gets even lower with 
hardware AGC.  Noise filters are usually used at the end of a high-gain i-f 
strip.

Wes  N7WS

--- On Mon, 7/1/13, Al Lorona  wrote:

> From: Al Lorona 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3-schematic and 2-pole crystal-filter
> To: "Jerome Sodus" , "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
> 
> Date: Monday, July 1, 2013, 11:48 AM
> Hi, Jerry,
> 
> That 2-pole filter is probably there to eliminate any
> wideband noise that might be generated in the 1st IF amp.
> It's a good receiver design technique.
> 
> R,
> 
> Al  W6LX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >
> > From: Jerome Sodus 
> >To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> >Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 5:35 AM
> >Subject: [Elecraft] K3-schematic and 2-pole
> crystal-filter
> > 
> >
> >Hello,
> >
> >
> >
> >I posted the work below to an eHam forum and one reply
> suggested posting to
> >this site.
> >
> >Thru another reply I have already verified that my
> interpreting of the
> >K3-block-diagram is ok.
> >
> >So, left unanswered is the reason for the 2-pole
> crystal-ladder-filter.
> >
> >
> >
> >Hello,
> >
> >I'm to give a talk to our club next month about
> "roofing-filters".
> >So, during my talk, I intend to show schematics for
> Yaesu's FT-5000 and
> >Elecraft's K3; I choose these two because of their
> pristine locations on
> >Sherwood's table.
> >
> >I'd have no problem explaining the 5000's
> block-diagrams; seems to follow
> >the "expected script".
> >
> >But, with the K3's schematic:
> >
> >a) on its block-diagram (pg. 64), the five
> roofing-filters seem to not be in
> >the expected location of immediately after the
> 1st-mixer.
> >As I see it, the received signal-flow is...from the
> rec'r antenna, thru
> >LC-bandpass-filters, attenuators, +12dB amp, then the
> 1st-mixer, a +17dB
> >amp, the Noise-Blanker, finally the roofing-filters, and
> now an IF-amp, etc,
> >etc. Am I interpreting the block-diagram correctly?
> >
> >b) on both dwg K3-RF-board and dwg KRX3-sub-rec'r,
> between the 1st-IF and
> >the 2nd-mixer, a 2-pole crystal-ladder-filter is
> labelled as having a BW=14
> >KHz. I'm mystified why this part is there, especially
> since any of the
> >preceding crystal-filters would have a significantly
> narrower bandwidth.
> >Hopefully, someone could explain this conundrum. Also, I
> was not able to
> >locate it on the block-diagram.
> >
> >That's about as far as I got trying to piece together an
> understanding of
> >the K3-circuitry for now.
> >Thanks in advance for any replies.
> >
> >73 Jerry KM3K
> >
> >
> >
> >Thanks in advance for any replies.
> >
> >BTW, I'm only just a few hundred dollars short of buying
> the KX3.
> >
> >73 Jerry-KM3K
> >
> >__
> >Elecraft mailing list
> >Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> >Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
> >This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> >Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >
> >
> >
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> 
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KPA -- Dead on Assembly

Pure genius, Tim.  The instructions on the fuses are in the owners 
manual and not the construction manual.  I thought construction ended 
with the construction manual!!  Some how I thought the fuses at were 
supplied were replacements.  I'm now in the process of installing the 
correct 115 VAC fuses!  Please note that I opted to call you a genius 
rather than labeling myself as an idiot! :-)


73,

Carl

Tim Hague 
Monday, July 01, 2013 3:12 PM
Carl, sounds obvious but did you check the fuse?

Best regards, Tim Hague
Skype m0afj.Tim
Sent on my iPad


Carl Jón Denbow 
Monday, July 01, 2013 3:07 PM
I finished putting together the KPA 500 kit this weekend.  Everything 
seemed to go smoothly.  However, upon plugging it in to the mains it 
will not turn on.  I've checked the safety switch mechanism on the top 
and it does properly depress the switch.  I've also checked the switch 
itself which is OK.  The switch on the back of the unit is also in the 
"on" position.  But, pushing the "on button" on the front does 
absolutely nothing.  Where should I look next to trouble shoot this 
problem?


Tnxs & 73,

Carl

==
Carl Jón Denbow, N8VZ

17 Coventry Lane
Athens, Ohio 45701-3718
EM89wh

http://www.n8vz.com
c...@n8vz.com
==
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


--
==
Carl Jón Denbow, N8VZ

17 Coventry Lane
Athens, Ohio 45701-3718
EM89wh

http://www.n8vz.com
c...@n8vz.com
==
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KPA -- Dead on Assembly

2013-07-01 Thread m0afj

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Amp

2013-07-01 Thread W0FK

John Marvin wrote
> One correction. The HF Packer is not a 50w amp. It's about 45w at 160m, 
> and then steadily less as you go up in frequency (40w for 80m, 35w for 
> 40-20m, 30w for 17/15m, 25w for 12m and about 20w for 10m). It doesn't 
> support 6m. These numbers come directly from a graph in the HF Packer 
> manual.
> 
> John
> AC0ZG

I get 44-45 watts out of mine (v3) on all bands with 5 watts input. I've
seen 50 if I push it with 6+ watts input when I was testing it out, but
that's in excess of recommended input limts and given the slim dB gain, not
worth it.

73,

Lou, W0FK



-
St. Louis, MO
K3 #'s 7463 and 2513, P3 #620, KX1 #1517, KX3 #0036

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-Amp-tp7571696p7576109.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna

2013-07-01 Thread Ignacy

Mike WA8BXN wrote
> I think elevated radials need to be tuned, that is a particular length for
> a
> given band. If you will be operating multiple bands, a set is needed for
> each band.

If elevated radials are not tuned and not quarter wave, the efficiency may
be even higher than with quarter wave radials but the feed point is likely
to be at a very high voltage. This requires either very high impedance
chokes or transformers. No radial verticals are case in point.

There is a 160m vertical with innovative elevated radial
(http://www.w0uce.net/K2AVantennas.html). It is equivalent to two elevated
radials and coil. There is an anecdotal information that this vertical works
much better than a vertical with many short ground radials. 

Ignacy, NO9E





--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/OT-Radials-for-Vertical-Antenna-tp7576089p7576111.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] A K1 problem

2013-07-01 Thread David L DuPuy

My K1 (20m + 40m), built about five months ago, has been operating
perfectly...  after some initial problems which were resolved.  I’ve
recently taken it camping and a roadblock problem has now showed up (on two
earlier camping trips, it performed well).

The symptoms are twofold: first, there is no sidetone when keyed, although
I can see the bars on the LCD as the transmitter is keyed.  I am using it
with separate 20 and 40 dipoles dipoles and no antenna tuner (which worked
nicely before this).

Second, the incoming signals are extremely weak and have a very strange
sound as if the narrowest filter were engaged (it’s not).  This prompted me
to think it was an antenna problem and I have tried both 40m and 20m
camping dipoles, and I checked the coax from inside the camper to outside.
 Further, I brought the K1 inside the house to use with my home antenna
(with all aspects of the antenna and feedline different than used in the
camper), and the problem is the same.  So it’s a problem inside the K1.

I wondered if “faulty antenna connection” (or something similar) might be
the problem.  Is there a provision for the K1 to shutdown if keyed with no
antenna?  I have inspected the RF board carefully and can find no visual
problems.  Likewise for the filter board.  I have also replaced the
BNC-to-UHF cable, the problem is still there.

An important clue: while camping, when the problem showed up, one of the
screws holding the speaker had come loose, and I’ve just discovered the nut
had been floating around on the RF board, and was wedged in between the
case and U5 (8-volt 3-pin regulator IC).  I’ve checked the output of U5 and
it’s 8.0 volts, so that’s not the problem.  The VFO is working correctly.
 I have to wonder what else that loose nut might have shorted out.

Does anyone have any ideas on troubleshooting this?  I greatly appreciate
any suggestions.  Many thanks, David AC4BN
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] A K1 problem

2013-07-01 Thread Mike Morrow

David/AC4BN wrote:

>The symptoms are twofold: first, there is no sidetone when keyed, although
>I can see the bars on the LCD as the transmitter is keyed.  I am using it
>with separate 20 and 40 dipoles dipoles and no antenna tuner (which worked
>nicely before this).
>
>Second, the incoming signals are extremely weak and have a very strange
>sound as if the narrowest filter were engaged (it’s not).

1.  Are you observing these problems through the speaker?  Have you
determined that the audio sounds as poorly through headphones (or another
speaker) that has been connected through the phone jack?  This information
could rule out a simple AF jack problem.

2.  Doer an external power meter indicate normal power out when the K1
is keyed?  Does an external receiver hear a normal signal when the K1
is keyed?

73,
Mike / KK5F
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna

2013-07-01 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire

All of the "no radial verticals" that I've seen are electrically 1/2
wavelength long and so behave as an end-fed dipole. Since the feed point
impedance is very high, there is very little current flowing and so a ground
connection has relatively little impact on the efficiency. 

Another great reference for vertical antennas is "Vertical Antenna Classics"
published by the ARRL (ARRL Order No. 5218, ISBN 0-87259-521-8)

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
...If elevated radials are not tuned and not quarter wave, the efficiency
may be even higher than with quarter wave radials but the feed point is
likely to be at a very high voltage. This requires either very high
impedance chokes or transformers. No radial verticals are case in point.

There is a 160m vertical with innovative elevated radial
(http://www.w0uce.net/K2AVantennas.html). It is equivalent to two elevated
radials and coil. There is an anecdotal information that this vertical works
much better than a vertical with many short ground radials. 

Ignacy, NO9E





--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/OT-Radials-for-Vertical-Antenna-tp75760
89p7576111.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna

Elevated radials need not be tuned (whatever matching network is used
should resolve the tuning, BUT if the radials are to be effective in
cancelling the horizontally polarized radiation, pairs must be arranged
180 degrees apart. Yes, they can bend, but will be most effective if
the bends are symetrical and opposite. Remember the "ground plane"
antenna that was quite popular some time ago - the 4 radials were
arranged at 90 degrees to each other. Yes, those were tuned to
resonance as was the monopole, and they were sloped downward to produce
closer to a 50 ohm match. Those were elevated radials.

With a proper matching network a vertical having the vertical element
and the radial with equal lengths will match in a similar manner to a
center fed dipole, If the radials and the vertical element are not the
same length, then the feed will be similar to an off-center-fed dipole.
(the radial pairs should be of the same length to cancel the horizontal
radiation).

Normally elevated radials are used with resonant vertical sections, and
in that case should be tuned for resonance one at a time with the
vertical section.

73,
Don W3FPR
.
On 7/1/2013 3:49 PM, Ignacy wrote:

Mike WA8BXN wrote

I think elevated radials need to be tuned, that is a particular length for
a
given band. If you will be operating multiple bands, a set is needed for
each band.

If elevated radials are not tuned and not quarter wave, the efficiency may
be even higher than with quarter wave radials but the feed point is likely
to be at a very high voltage. This requires either very high impedance
chokes or transformers. No radial verticals are case in point.

There is a 160m vertical with innovative elevated radial
(http://www.w0uce.net/K2AVantennas.html). It is equivalent to two elevated
radials and coil. There is an anecdotal information that this vertical works
much better than a vertical with many short ground radials.

Ignacy, NO9E

--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/OT-Radials-for-Vertical-Antenna-tp7576089p7576111.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] A K1 problem


David,

Loss of sidetone as well as 'strangness' in the filter width points to 
the XFIL/TONE signal line which originates at pin 1 of Front Panel U2.  
It provides sidetone during transmit and the voltage during receive 
controls the width of the IF filter.


I don't know if it could be directly related to the loose nut, screw and 
washers, but it certainly could be possible that some of that hardware 
could have shorted the XFIL/TONE, but look for washers around the 
connector between the front panel and the RF board.  If you are lucky, 
retieving those parts will set things back to normal, but there is a 
chance that a short on that line could have wiped out the pin 1 output 
if FP U2.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/1/2013 4:38 PM, David L DuPuy wrote:

My K1 (20m + 40m), built about five months ago, has been operating
perfectly...  after some initial problems which were resolved.  I’ve
recently taken it camping and a roadblock problem has now showed up (on two
earlier camping trips, it performed well).

The symptoms are twofold: first, there is no sidetone when keyed, although
I can see the bars on the LCD as the transmitter is keyed.  I am using it
with separate 20 and 40 dipoles dipoles and no antenna tuner (which worked
nicely before this).

Second, the incoming signals are extremely weak and have a very strange
sound as if the narrowest filter were engaged (it’s not).  This prompted me
to think it was an antenna problem and I have tried both 40m and 20m
camping dipoles, and I checked the coax from inside the camper to outside.
  Further, I brought the K1 inside the house to use with my home antenna
(with all aspects of the antenna and feedline different than used in the
camper), and the problem is the same.  So it’s a problem inside the K1.

I wondered if “faulty antenna connection” (or something similar) might be
the problem.  Is there a provision for the K1 to shutdown if keyed with no
antenna?  I have inspected the RF board carefully and can find no visual
problems.  Likewise for the filter board.  I have also replaced the
BNC-to-UHF cable, the problem is still there.

An important clue: while camping, when the problem showed up, one of the
screws holding the speaker had come loose, and I’ve just discovered the nut
had been floating around on the RF board, and was wedged in between the
case and U5 (8-volt 3-pin regulator IC).  I’ve checked the output of U5 and
it’s 8.0 volts, so that’s not the problem.  The VFO is working correctly.
  I have to wonder what else that loose nut might have shorted out.

Does anyone have any ideas on troubleshooting this?  I greatly appreciate
any suggestions.  Many thanks, David AC4BN



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna

2013-07-01 Thread Barry LaZar


Mike,
Tuned radials are really not needed in an elevated radial setup. 
You just put an ATU at the base of the vertical section and run 2-4 
radials from the ground of the ATU. The only issue is making sure the 
antenna system is really high enough to be called raised. I would shoot 
for elevations in excess of 1/10 wavelength, and preferably a bit more.  
Impedance of the antenna is totally unimportant as the ATU takes care of 
making sure your transmitter "sees" a proper load.


73,
Barry
K3NDM

On 7/1/2013 12:49 PM, Mike WA8BXN wrote:

Randy,
  
I think elevated radials need to be tuned, that is a particular length for a

given band. If you will be operating multiple bands, a set is needed for
each band. Radials on or under ground do not need to be a particular length
to work (more and longer is probably always good).
  
What band(s) do you want to operate? If 20 meters, you might consider an end

fed half wave vertical that would not need much ground system.
  
73 - Mike WA8BXN
  
  
---Original Message---
  
From: Randy Cook

Date: 07/01/13 12:30:28
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna
  
I would appreciate any help from the group on my unusual antenna situation.

Not really Elecraft related, so OK to respond off line.
  
Recently, we had to gut our back yard, as several Redwood trees were

undermining a retaining wall. Bad situation. So, the trees had to go, and
with them my antenna supports! I now have essentially a 50ft by 30ft yard
with 6ft fences on the three sides, house and porch on the fourth. Some
hardscape prevents long radials. For aesthetic reasons, I don't have a tower
or tall supports. My first shot was a fiberglass pole, at about 34ft, with a
wire up the middle. Terminates in the base to an MFJ antenna autotuner. I
placed the pole a few feet from the corner of the lot where, when painted,
blends into a neighbors tree behind, and is an barely visible from the
street.
  
My limitations are the radial field. I did some research, and started with 8

wires, varying from 15' to 35' in a 100 degree spread on the flower beds and
small lawn. Another ham suggested elevated radials as an alternative, so I
tried two 35' radials at 90 deg angles along two fence sides, about 4' off
the ground. Much of what I read was from hams with big lots and dozens of
radial in all directions. Couldn't find much on my situation.
  
Conditions have not been that good, and other commitments have prevented

much testing. I have some time now and want to find the best solution.
Questions for the group--
  
Give the limits on the radial field (90-110 degrees, limited length) is 10

buried better than 2 elevated?
  
Does it make sense to use BOTH elevated and buried?
  
Some prelim testing, using some SE Asia DX stations, showed little

difference in the receive signal strength switching in either or both radial
plans. I plan on using some on air events this week to gather signal
strength reports on my transmissions.
  
Any thoughts?
  
  
73
  
Randy Cook - K6CRC

K3 #2051
k6cr...@gmail.com
  
__

Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] K1 problem progress

2013-07-01 Thread David L DuPuy

Mike...  two good questions to ask!  The speaker and the headphones both
sound the same, and now...  I believe I'm getting signals of normal
strength (on my home tuner/antenna).  I will do more comparisons with my
FT-950.

My Palstar tuner does indicate exactly 5 watts out (same as for my FT-950
set to 5 W), and the FT-950 is getting a nice clean signal when I key the
K1.

So  I conclude the transmitter is working normally, and maybe I need to
concentrate just on the sidetone.  I gather that's in the U4 area?   David
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna

2013-07-01 Thread Mel Farrer

Consider the OCF vertical dipole.

Mel

 From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2013 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna

All of the "no radial verticals" that I've seen are electrically 1/2
wavelength long and so behave as an end-fed dipole. Since the feed point
impedance is very high, there is very little current flowing and so a ground
connection has relatively little impact on the efficiency. 

Another great reference for vertical antennas is "Vertical Antenna Classics"
published by the ARRL (ARRL Order No. 5218, ISBN 0-87259-521-8)

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
...If elevated radials are not tuned and not quarter wave, the efficiency
may be even higher than with quarter wave radials but the feed point is
likely to be at a very high voltage. This requires either very high
impedance chokes or transformers. No radial verticals are case in point.

There is a 160m vertical with innovative elevated radial
(http://www.w0uce.net/K2AVantennas.html). It is equivalent to two elevated
radials and coil. There is an anecdotal information that this vertical works
much better than a vertical with many short ground radials. 

Ignacy, NO9E

--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/OT-Radials-for-Vertical-Antenna-tp75760
89p7576111.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] XV Transverter Local Oscillator -- GPSDO?

2013-07-01 Thread Carol F. Milazzo, KP4MD/W6

I have achieved frequency stability to 1 Hz with the Flex-1500 & Elecraft
XV144 transverter combination, using a GPS disciplined OCXO on 116 MHz. I
have documented the XV144 frequency stability and drift data comparing the
GPS control against the stock crystal oven option with enhanced thermal
insulation here
https://picasaweb.google.com/114032640816757126398/XV144FrequencyStabilityModifications

The stock FLEX-1500 TCXO is sufficient to hold the frequency to within 1
Hz. Enabling the 10 MHz sine wave external reference on the FLEX-1500
should increase the frequency accuracy and stability to the millihertz
range.

Carol, KP4MD




*Bill Schwantes* bill4070 at gmail.com

*Thu Oct 20 00:57:06 EDT 2011*


   - Previous message: [Elecraft]
W2problems
   - Next message: [Elecraft] AF peak
filter
   - *Messages sorted by:* [ date
]
[ thread 
]
[ subject 
]
[ author 
]

--

Hi Guys and Gals,

Does anyone know of a mod to the Elecraft XV transverters that provides for
10 Mhz GPS disciplined oscillator control of the transverter local
oscillator?

I think that would be a popular feature for Elecraft to consider on future
versions of XV transverters.  It would be similar to the K3EXREF Frequency
Lock Option for the K3, which works flawlessly.

Bill, W7QQ
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 question

2013-07-01 Thread Jack Brindle

The output of the BCD pins is indeed TTL level, with coding as described in the 
KRC2 manual. 
If the BPFs need BCD input at +12 volts, probably the best way to do this would 
be to configure four output pins to output the desired BCD code for each band 
using the KRC2 Configuration Tool. I believe Fred described this in an email he 
posted here a short time ago. Be careful with driving a device from the BCD 
pins - if the device has pull-up resistors to +12 volts it could damage the 
KRC2's microcontroller. These signals have series 390 ohm resistors to provide 
the only protection to the MCU pins. They may not be adequate to prevent high 
voltage from damaging the chip.

The BCD pins act as inputs only when the KRC2 jumpers are configured for BCD 
in. Otherwise the pins are outputs, reflecting the currently selected band. As 
noted above, the coding is described in the KRC2 manual. It is NOT identical to 
a the K3 coding, with the difference being the 60m and 6m band codes. (60m = 
0x0A, 6m = 0x0B, with 0x00 undefined).

Now, for the important question, if I understand correctly, the answer is yes. 
The KRC2 should be able to drive both devices, taking its band input from the 
radio using the Auxbus, or serial lines. In fact this configuration is used by 
many folks.

Jack Brindle, W6FB

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 1, 2013, at 7:51 AM, iain macdonnell - N6ML  wrote:

> Don,
> 
> The manual says (on page 25 of rev C):
> 
> "The remaining four drivers, labeled A, B, C and D, are TTL-compatible
> inputs or outputs depending on the operating mode. In normal KRC2 or
> analog modes, the terminals are outputs. In digital parallel input
> mode, they become inputs, and receive the BCD-encoded band data."
> 
> It doesn't specify that the output format is BCD, but I can't imagine
> what else it would be...
> 
> 73,
> 
>~iain / N6ML
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 5:24 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> Joerg,
>> 
>> The KRC2 can be configured to accept BCD data as input, but I see no
>> reference that it provides BCD output.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>> 
>> On 7/1/2013 8:05 AM, Jörg Rüschenschmidt wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi all,
>>> 
>>> I have two devices which requires band data.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 1.)Bandpass filter with 12 volt input lines per band
>>> 
>>> 2.)Antenna switch which requires a BCD coded input for automatic
>>> switching
>>> 
>>> 
>>> My intention is to use KRC2 in serial mode. I understood from
>>> documentation
>>> BCD coded band data information will be available on J4 in serial mode.
>>> However I am not sure about this topic.  My main interest is, could I use
>>> one KRC2 to support both devices at the same time ?
>> 
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> 
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna

2013-07-01 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire

Exactly. Consider that the idea is to avoid RF currents being induced in the
earth near the antenna. There are two ways to reduce those currents: more
copper under the antenna and more separation between the antenna and the
earth. So the higher the base of the vertical and radials are above the
earth the less current will be induced in the lossy ground. 

Almost all the studies about radials are to figure out the optimum tradeoff
between cost and antenna efficiency for a given situation. 

As Don points out, it's important that the radials be fed in phase
(connected to the same point) and arranged exactly opposite the vertical so
the RF field created by one radial is cancelled by the opposite radial.
Otherwise, the radial(s) will act like a random wire antenna very close to
the earth. 

So, does a one-radial antenna work? Certainly since part of the RF power is
still being radiated by the vertical itself. It's all a matter of arranging
things to radiate more from the vertical and having less absorbed by the
earth. 

73, Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Barry LaZar
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2013 3:06 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT- Radials for Vertical Antenna

Mike,
 Tuned radials are really not needed in an elevated radial setup. 
You just put an ATU at the base of the vertical section and run 2-4 radials
from the ground of the ATU. The only issue is making sure the antenna system
is really high enough to be called raised. I would shoot for elevations in
excess of 1/10 wavelength, and preferably a bit more.  
Impedance of the antenna is totally unimportant as the ATU takes care of
making sure your transmitter "sees" a proper load.

73,
Barry
K3NDM



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] FW: KE7X KRC2 app note

2013-07-01 Thread Jack Brindle

Wes;

The KRC2 is outputting the BCD representation of the band that the K3 is 
reporting to it. So in the 6m case, the KRC2 asserts the XV1 pin when the K3 
indicates 6m on the Auxbus. the default, however, is for the K3 to indicate 10m 
when on 6m, which is what the KRC2 faithfully outputs. The Band6 setting was 
originally intended as a K2 compatibility mode for the KRC2, but is no longer 
needed with KRC2 V1.6 firmware.

In any case, the BCD coding the KRC2 uses is described on page 26 of the KRC2 
manual.

jack Brindle, W6FB

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 1, 2013, at 11:24 AM, Wes Stewart  wrote:

> I just looked at mine, which at the moment is on the AUXBUS.
> 
> The outputs are BCD with a twist.
> 
> 160m -> BCD = 1
> 80m  -> BCD = 2
> 60m  -> BCD = 10
> 40m  -> BCD = 3
> 30m  -> BCD = 4
> 20m  -> BCD = 5
> 17m  -> BCD = 6
> 15m  -> BCD = 7
> 12m  -> BCD = 8
> 10m  -> BCD = 9
> 6m   -> BCD = 11 if CONFIG:KRC Band6=B6
> 6m   -> BCD = 9  if CONFIG:KRC Band6=B10  Note conflict with 10m.
> 
> When Band6=B10, the XV1 output is inactive, when it is Band5=B6, the XV1 
> output is active, which I consider "normal."
> 
> Also note the "Band6" display is what shows after a tap of the "1" key.  It's 
> always unclear to me whether the display indicates what's going to happen 
> after the key press or the current state of the parameter.  I'm assuming the 
> latter.
> 
> Wes  N7WS
> 
> 
> --- On Mon, 7/1/13, Cady, Fred  wrote:
> 
>> From: Cady, Fred 
>> Subject: [Elecraft] FW:  KE7X KRC2 app note
>> To: "'Elecraft Reflector'" 
>> Date: Monday, July 1, 2013, 11:12 AM
>> Thanks John, that's great
>> information. How is the KRC2 receiving the band data? Via
>> the AUXBUS?
>> Thanks,
>> Fred
>> 
>> (And thanks Ian for:
>> 
>> "The manual says (on page 25 of rev C):
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> "The remaining four drivers, labeled A, B, C and D, are
>> TTL-compatible
>> 
>> inputs or outputs depending on the operating mode. In normal
>> KRC2 or
>> 
>> analog modes, the terminals are outputs. In digital parallel
>> input
>> 
>> mode, they become inputs, and receive the BCD-encoded band
>> data."
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> It doesn't specify that the output format is BCD, but I
>> can't imagine
>> 
>> what else it would be...
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ~iain / N6ML
>> "
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Fred Cady
>> fcady at ieee dot org
>> From: John D'Ausilio [mailto:jdausi...@gmail.com]
>> Sent: Monday, July 01, 2013 8:42 AM
>> To: Cady, Fred
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KE7X KRC2 app note
>> 
>> Hi Fred .. I beg to differ with you re: BCD outputs from
>> ABCD terminals. Absent any overriding configuration (like
>> analog inputs), the ABCD terminals do in fact output BCD
>> band info. I know this because I've been using those outputs
>> to drive my microwave LO synthesizer for the last 4 years
>> :)
>> 
>> de w1rt/john
>> 
>> On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 9:24 AM, Cady, Fred 
>> mailto:fc...@ece.montana.edu>>
>> wrote:
>> Hello all,
>> Well, the KE7X KRC2 app note is yet another unfinished
>> project I need to get back on.
>> 
>> The KRC2 is a great little decoder box with tremendous
>> flexibility in how you use it but it does require you to
>> carefully study the schematic. Here are some of my
>> more-or-less random observations. I hope to put these into a
>> more cohesive form one of these days (soon).
>> 
>> KRC2 Outputs:
>> The KRC2 outputs can be used in high-side driver
>> applications (where the external device needs + voltage) or
>> low-side drivers (where the external device needs a signal
>> pulled to ground). The KRC2 can do both simultaneously. Note
>> that the high-side driver supplies +12 V when asserted but
>> is NOT pulled to ground when it is not asserted. Similarly,
>> the low-side drivers are not pulled up when not asserted.
>> 
>> There are 16 high-side and 16 low-side outputs. You can map
>> them anyway you like (even to do a BCD output) but note that
>> the mapping will be the same on the high-side and the
>> low-side.
>> 
>> Although there isn't a native BCD coded output, you can make
>> one by using the low-side drivers and supplying the needed
>> pull-up in your external device (which is the way those
>> devices should be designed anyway, but that's another
>> story).
>> 
>> Using the AUXBUS:
>> As others have mentioned, the best way to use the KRC2 with
>> the K3 is to use the AUXBUS output on the K3's ACC
>> connector. A caveat is, like the KAT500, the KRC2 must be
>> powered-up before the K3. If it isn't, the K3 will just sit
>> there with a blank screen when you turn it on. That's very
>> scary when it happens to you the first time! The reason that
>> happens is that the KRC2 seems to load the AUXBUS down when
>> it (the KRC2) is not powered-up. I'm not sure I understand
>> why. Bottom line: Turn the KRC2 on first and keep it
>> power-up.
>> 
>> Using the Serial Port:
>> Be very careful if you go this route. The problem is that
>> the KRC2 was designed to use the K2's serial port, which if
>> you recall, is a non-standard RS232 inte

[Elecraft] K1 and FP U2

2013-07-01 Thread David L DuPuy

Don...  I was unable to find any further loose parts (from speaker
nut/washer) in the front panel area.  They appear to have lodged on the
rear panel, but could certainly have bounced around a bit.

As for weak signals, I was camping the the Yukon, so maybe why I was
hearing weak signals!

So it sounds like we are down to FP U2.  I don't look forward to trying to
replace it ! but guess I'm going to be trying.  That's an analog signal out
of pin 1?

I now notice that switching filters has no affect on the bandwidth...
 maybe that confirms that FP U2 is in need of replacement?  Can we rule out
the MCU?  Appreciate your help.  David
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Amp

2013-07-01 Thread KF5TEU

Much appreciated.

This is what I found on these amps – 

Yes, I bought the dang Italian Amp because that is the ONLY one I could 
actually get BUT if anyone has the TEnTec (418 I think, 100 amp, DC powered , 
portable , new model )and wants to sell it (working as new, no glitches , 
decent price ).. let me know.

TX - Tokyo HiPower HL45B – anything over 5 amps can blow the caps in this unit 
so some have put attenuators between the KX3 and amp

HFPacker – won’t be available in time

Hardrock50 – also not available immediately so I can test

Ten- Tec – found new 100W model, looks perfect – once again – VAPORWARE – just 
like the KPA100 – much hype, much talk about availability , much “we’re just 
trying to get it perfect” – Nothing available and no real idea when it will be

KPA100 – I think I’ve seen a unicorn but I’ve never seen a KPA100 that I can 
buy. Last December it was “ just a few more tweaks, parts in house, ready soon, 
blah, blah , blah “. OK,  I want it perfect too but nobody can vouch for it , 
try it or buy it based on a promise. This is exactly what I want – in theory.

In “theory” by the time I get back from my trip I’ll have bagged a lion , a 
zebra , several large plains game species , a huge WoBo and a gorgeous , young 
South African gold mining heiress who wants me to handle all the profits from 
her multi-billion buck empire. But – should I start ordering the new trophy 
room yet and send out the wedding invitations (wife may object, should I ask 
her ? )? Maybe not.

Bill

From: Mel Farrer [via Elecraft] 
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7576082...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2013 10:10 AM
To: KF5TEU
Subject: Re: KX3 Amp

Which brings us full circle as to what is it you are trying to accomplish?  The 
ham with a KX3 and a chuck of wire will do (OK) on a hill top or by the 
ocean-side.  This works very well for the week end warriors etc.  Add a solar 
panel and the duration goes way up.  Add a resonant antenna not needing a 
ground and you gain again.  Add a small amp and suitable battery with upgraded 
solar panel and you go up again.  Add an RV with internal batteries, and the 
night goes on.  Anyone keeping score??  

Pick you battle and you will always be ahead.  If you try to win the war with 
entry level, you lose.  I personally pick my battles carefully and watch my 
allotted budget,   I win.  

Mel, K6KBE 

 From: Ariel Jacala <[hidden email]> 
To: elecraft reflector <[hidden email]> 
Cc: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]> 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 3:43 PM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Amp 

Jim is right in one sense that the 100w amp will consume battery life quickly.  
However, if what you want is the ability to get a signal out at marginal 
propagation conditions, then a 50 watt amp if  used frugally can get a stronger 
signal out.  Several amps fall into this category with about a 9 dB gain in 
signal strength from 5 watts - and pulling about 7-10 amps of drain on the 
battery on TX - Tokyo HiPower HL45B, HFPacker, and Hardrock50.  The latter 2 
you have to build yourself.  The Hardrock is only available used if someone is 
willing to part with theirs.  Only about 100 of the Hardrocks have been built.  
Sales are on hold pending FCC certification.  The Elecraft amp can also be 
tuned down for less power out and can be tuned to 100w if needed.  You do have 
to carry enough battery to sustain the anticipated TX time.  You will be 
surprised at how effective 5 or 10 watts can be and effort is probably better 
directed at effective antenna 
 systems.  100w into a dummy load th 
at radiates (my way of describing a poor antenna) is a poor substitute for 10 
watts into a resonant wire.  Up high and in the clear is always better.  I have 
always had better luck with wire in the clear than verticals on a picnic table 
in terms of reach. 

Ariel NY4G 

Sent from my iPad 

On Jun 30, 2013, at 4:18 PM, "Jim Brown" <[hidden email]> wrote: 

> On 6/30/2013 4:42 AM, KF5TEU wrote: 
>> Unfortunately , yes , I do need an amp. . We are going out over 200 mi. from 
>> the nearest real town and if we need help then I would really love to get 
>> through vs. be falsely proud of my QST skills that gets me nothing but dead 
>> air 
> 
> It's important to understand that the power to run an amp must come from MUCH 
> HEAVIER batteries that must be carried along with the radio.  Far better to 
> LEARN how antennas work, learn CW if you don't already know it, and carry the 
> wire and other light weight antenna accessories required to make reliable 
> contacts with stuff you CAN carry. 
> 
> Putting some numbers to it, a 100W Elecraft rig requires 20A to transmit. A 
> 7Ah battery will give you 20 minutes of transmitting time at 100W, but it 
> will give you more than two HOURS at 5W. 
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC 
> __ 
> Elecraft mailing list 
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/

Re: [Elecraft] OT - Perfect Clock for your shack (KIT)

2013-07-01 Thread Mark Bayern

Or ... if you're really serious about melting solder and are willing
to troubleshoot  and find your mistakes on your own, check out the
transistor clock from 

Mark   AD5SS



On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 9:04 AM, Terry Schieler  wrote:
> After you're caught up building everything Elecraft offers and still have 
> that need for melting solder, this unique shack clock is available in KIT 
> form!.
>
> Terry, W0FM
>
> http://hackedgadgets.com/2010/06/23/multimeter-clock-styled-after-the-simpson-260-multimeter/
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Boost Buck 13.8 V Regulator

2013-07-01 Thread Stephen M. Shearer

Another source
http://www.goodluckbuy.com/-dc-dc-converter-qs-1212ccba-80w-power-supply-aut
o-boost-buck-80w-cc-cv-charger.html 
Cheaper,
Shipping is from Shenzhen, China {free} but took about 3 weeks.
It should be very useful to boost a 12V battery to 13.8V to charge my KX3 or
as a regulator for my solar panel to do the same..
73, Steve WB3LGC
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jon Moody
Sent: 15 May, 2013 2:41 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Boost Buck 13.8 V Regulator

Hi Glenn,

I have purchased both of these DC-DC power converters and have been very
happy with them.  They both have an adjustable output set voltage and seem
to have very good regulation.  The only issue is with RFI that they
generate.  The good news is that they are pretty well shielded in aluminum
cases.   But their is stil some leakage from the power connections but I
have found that attaching good quality ferrite beads on the power connectors
to pretty much eliminate this as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Low-Ripple-CC-CV-Car-Power-Supply-Module-LED-Driver-
DC-DC-8-30V-to-2-16V-80W-/251112762798?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a777c
adae

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-150W-Non-Isolated-Booster-Voltage-Converter-6V
-32V-Step-Down-to-0-8V-28V-/260968513486?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc2
ef7fce

YMMV and I am sure that their are many other equally fine Regulators out
there
--
Thanks
Jon
KG6VDW
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 Orders Being Taken!

2013-07-01 Thread Eugene Balinski

Will Elecraft, as in the past, only charge the charge card
when the amp is ready to ship ?

73
K1NR
KX3 SN: (still  in the box awaiting build)


On Mon, 17 Jun 2013 18:55:33 -0700 (PDT)
 W0FK  wrote:
> Got the email this evening.
> 
> 
> 
> /June 17, 2013
> 
> Now accepting orders for the Elecraft KXPA100 100 W
> Amplifier
> We have received FCC certification and are putting on the
> finishing touches
> and performing our field test on the KXPA100. We're now
> taking orders for
> deliveries planned to start in the next 60 days (mid to
> late August).
> 
> You will find a direct link for ordering the KXPA100
> below, at the bottom of
> this email. (This order form is not yet visible on our
> regular web page.)/
> 
> 
> Order in, now the wait.
> 
> Thanks Wayne and Eric!
> 
> 73,
> 
> Lou, W0FK
> 
> 
> 
> -
> St. Louis, MO
> K3 #'s 7463 and 2513, P3 #620, KX1 #1517, KX3 #0036
> 
> --
> View this message in context:
>
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KXPA100-Orders-Being-Taken-tp7575431.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at
> Nabble.com.
>
__
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list:
> http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

-
Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider.
http://www.nni.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Amp

2013-07-01 Thread KF5TEU

 

Thanks.

Just to try it I bought an HLA on Amazon, with fans.

I have the built in optional Elecraft tuner, some other 100W autotuners and
a few antennas that just might be resonant at the right freq:, 10M during
the day, 40 and 80 later on. Hopefully we just chat on the 2M until over
20-30 miles out and base has a big antenna (beam they tell me) to pick us up
when farther out (we hope).

 

I'll add a fan switch and a temp. sensor from a PC unit I have.

Fans burn juice so I will keep them off unless needed.

I really want the Elecraft KPA100 but I also want a guaranteed trophy
without doing a canned hunt.

Which is more likely to happen by end of July  I wonder?

 

Bill

 

From: Igor Sokolov-2 [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7576093...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2013 11:56 AM
To: KF5TEU
Subject: Re: KX3 Amp

 

Another correction. HLA 300 (and probably 150) have RF sensing PTT and 
automatic band switching. They also have decent IMD is not driven to full 
output power. HLA 300 is about 25-30 db IMD when driven to 150-200 watts 
(5-7watt input) and cost under 500 USD. No antenna tuner though. 

73, Igor UA9CDC 
- Original Message - 
From: "John Marvin" <[hidden email]> 
To: <[hidden email]> 
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2013 11:54 AM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Amp 


> One correction. The HF Packer is not a 50w amp. It's about 45w at 160m, 
> and then steadily less as you go up in frequency (40w for 80m, 35w for 
> 40-20m, 30w for 17/15m, 25w for 12m and about 20w for 10m). It doesn't 
> support 6m. These numbers come directly from a graph in the HF Packer 
> manual. 
> 
> John 
> AC0ZG 
> 
> On 6/30/2013 10:18 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote: 
>> Hands down the KXPA100.  It isn't out yet - shipping in August but offers

>> the greatest flexibility with a tuner and portability.  The Hardrock is 
>> ~$260.  It is only available to members of the Yahoo group right now.  It

>> is 160-6m and generates a solid 50w from 160-10, less on 6m.  I own a 
>> Hardrock and it was a difficult build but Jim Veatch helped me out a 
>> lot - WA2EUJ.  No tuner though so you will have to invest in a ZL100 or 
>> equivalent.  The Elecraft tuner is  faster and tunes a wider range.  Size

>> wise is only slightly smaller than the Elecraft 4 1/8 wide and tall by 7 
>> deep.  The TenTec is a larger amp - $800 plus a 100w tuner.   The THP 
>> HL45B is a solid performer at about $450 from HRO.  Again you need an 
>> outboard tuner.  You have to manually switch bands.  If you don't it will

>> go on standby - a self protective feature.  I played with a THP for a 
>> while and it works well.  You can get one used - not easy - for about 
>> $250-$300.  There are the RM Italy variants - beware do 
> no 
>>   t overdrive - IMD artifacts - HL300B is the model - only drive to 
>> 100W - I have no experience with this amp. These are not certified by the

>> FCC.   Some people have had great luck with the Juma 100w amp and some on

>> the reflector may have owned one or built one.  The Jumas can be 
>> programmed to band switch with the rig.  Again - it needs an external 
>> 100w tuner. 
>> 
>> So here are your choices: 
>> 
>> Juma 100w - no tuner - band switches with rig automatic - FCC certified 
>> Hardrock 50w - no tuner - manual switching - not FCC certified 
>> TenTec - 100w - no tuner - band switching with rig automatic 
>> HFPacker - 50w - manual swiching 
>> KXPA100 - 100w - tuner - automatic band switching - FCC certified 
>> THP HL45B - 45w - no tuner - manual switching (except for FT817) - FCC 
>> certified 
>> THP HL100B - 10w - no tuner - manual switching - not FCC certified 
>> RM Italy HL150 - 150w - no tuner - manual switching? not FCC certified 
>> RM Italy HL300B = 300w - no tuner - manual switching? not FCC cerified 
>> 
>> Antennas 
>> Too many to list 
>> Personal favorites - G0GSF- multiband dipole - 4 bands are OK w/o a 
>> tuner, EFHW - cut to 45 ft with EARCI matchbox KX3 tuner will match 
>> 80-10m 
>>   Ariel NY4G 
>> Sent from my iPad 
>> 
>> On Jun 30, 2013, at 11:39 PM, "KF5TEU" <[hidden email]> wrote: 
>> 
>>> While all these posts have good advice for a bc trip , I really just 
>>> want the KX3 amplifier. I have the other items already ( Delorme GPS 
>>> plus SPOT with rescue insurance paid up, sat. phone rented , several 2M 
>>> HT's ( APRS godd idea , I'll add that ) and the usual flares , panels , 
>>> noisemakers and things that go bang ) . 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> But...I need an amplifier and the right antennas to add to this. 
>>> We will be doing the check in via SPOT , sat. AND am. band. 
>>> SPOT loses lock in jungle and mountain ,vso do sat. phones and GPS. 
>>> Certain unfriendlies like to jam their freq's as well. 
>>> In addition to that any or all that gear can be broken , lost or 
>>> confiscated by certain sticky fingered locals ( it.s happened ). 
>>> Hard to jam 6M-160M all the time though. 
>>> I am not "shouting in the dark" for rescue.  We have several pre-planned

>>> operat

Re: [Elecraft] K1 and FP U2


David,

The signal from U2 pin 1 is indeed analog.  In normal transmit it should 
contain a square wave at the frequency of the sidetone pitch.  During 
receive, the voltage level should change as you switch from filter to 
filter.
If you have power control in the K1, then the other output from U2 is 
working, and that rules out the MCU.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/1/2013 8:07 PM, David L DuPuy wrote:

Don...  I was unable to find any further loose parts (from speaker
nut/washer) in the front panel area.  They appear to have lodged on the
rear panel, but could certainly have bounced around a bit.

As for weak signals, I was camping the the Yukon, so maybe why I was
hearing weak signals!

So it sounds like we are down to FP U2.  I don't look forward to trying to
replace it ! but guess I'm going to be trying.  That's an analog signal out
of pin 1?

I now notice that switching filters has no affect on the bandwidth...
  maybe that confirms that FP U2 is in need of replacement?  Can we rule out
the MCU?  Appreciate your help.  David



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Elecraft] Newly Built KPA500 Acting Strange

OK, after Tim, M0AFJ, informed me that the amp needed to have fuses, and 
I dutifully installed same, everything seemed fine for a little while.  
Thanks, Tim, for the heads up.  At that point I tried it on several 
different bands into a dummy load and into the ether and was getting 500 
watts out.  Then, I decided to put a watt meter inline to get a more 
accurate assessment of wattage and instead I got really low output 
readings on several transmissions and then zero.  I then took the watt 
meter out of line and now I have the following phenomenon:  1. In bypass 
mode I get out full wattage -- 45 watts from rig, but the KPA500 says 
it's 35.  The rig's SWR meter registers very low SWR.  A KAT500 is doing 
the antenna tuning after RF passes through the KPA500.  2. If I take the 
KPA500 out of bypass into operating mode, output drops to zero, SWR goes 
sky high, and KAT500 can't tune it.   Seems it must be a short of some 
time that's somewhere in the amp circuit and not in the bypass path.  
Any idea where to start to trouble shooting this?  The strange thing is 
the KPA500 worked FB for the first ten minutes of its life.


Tnxs for any suggestions.

73,

Carl
--
==
Carl Jón Denbow, N8VZ

17 Coventry Lane
Athens, Ohio 45701-3718
EM89wh

http://www.n8vz.com
c...@n8vz.com
==
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] Newly Built KPA500 Acting Strange