Re: [Elecraft] APF

2013-12-08 Thread Bill W4ZV
IMHO K3WC's APF suggestion is WAY TOO COMPLICATED.  I use APF virtually all
the time and never use RIT, SHIFT, etc.  Just HOLD DUAL PB to actuate APF
and use the VFO to zero beat.  COARSE (10 Hz) VFO steps is usually close
enough but you can switch to FINE (1 Hz) if necessary for ultra weak
signals.  I also strongly endorse N6KR's suggestion below:

I suggest setting the passband width to about 250-300 Hz when using APF.

This is extremely important since bandwidths too narrow will introduce
additional ringing to the APF which already borders on ringing.  I actually
use a 200 Hz XFIL but set to actuate at DSP 400 Hz.  With WIDTH set to 400
Hz, the signal first goes through the relatively broad (4.0 shape factor)
200 Hz XFIL, then a 400 Hz DSP and finally the narrow APF.  This makes the
cascaded XFIL/DSP look more like 250 Hz, reduces ringing, still allows you
to hear off-frequency callers (although attenuated) and helps your ears
discriminate weak signals from noise by providing a wider background sample
of noise.

73,  Bill  W4ZV





Scott Monks wrote
 Sam;
  Your explanation is really good Sam, but it seems that something
 doesn't follow for me.
 
 cut...
 
Turn on the RIT control (tap the RIT button). Next, lower the RIT 
frequency -20 Hz. (You must have CONFIG:PB CTRL in the config menu set 
to .01 to move in 10 Hz steps). If your pitch is set to 500 Hz, then the 
tone of the CW should now be 480 Hz. Next, turn on the APF by HOLDING 
the DUAL PB button. Adjust the APF using the SHIFT Fc Knob (now APF 
control). Move the APF down -20 Hz to match the CW signal. Once you have 
the signal in the center of the new 480 Hz tone you should hear that the 
CW signal pops up about 5 or 6 dB
Ok, I did this, first setting my pitch at 500 Hz, which actually even cut
out some ringing!  I got the station centered, etc., turned RIT down -20,
activated APF, but then the problem began.
 
 I am not sure what the SHIFT Fc Knob is--if it is just the regular
 Shift-Lo knob then this doesn't do anything for me when I turn it. Is
 this the right knob?  Do I need something turned on in CONFIG for it to
 work?
 
 
 I have had my K3 a little more than 1yr., and I sort of remember that
 MAYBE I could move the passband once at first, but I my be remembering
 bad!
 
 Thanks for the help.  73
 
 
 Scott  
 
 AA0AA; XE1/AA0AA
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[Elecraft] K3 PTT with Navigator

2013-12-08 Thread w4grj
I changed computers, now trying to get the Navigator sound card interface to 
work with the K3.
I don't remember settings for PTT DTR and RTS settings, are they checked?
Now I have to find the correct comm. port.

Thanks,
Jack
W4GRJ

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[Elecraft] KAT500 in the ARRL 160 Contest

2013-12-08 Thread Jim Sheldon
Friday night, at the last minute, I decided to try the ARRL 160 meter contest.  
I only have a fairly low inverted L antenna (small city lot) so I usually don't 
work much DX on 160 but when the band is quiet the K3 hears everything quite 
well.  

I usually operate low power or QRP in contests, but this time decided to play 
with the big boys and turned on the KPA500.  Just so I wouldn't be causing 
the KAT500 to tune every time I called someone, about 20 minutes before the 
contest started I did a tune every 10 KHz from 1805 KHz up through around 
1875 to get most of the info stored in the bins.  

All during the contest, when I'd pass one of the frequencies where I'd run the 
tuner, I'd hear the click of the relays changing to the new settings.  
Throughout the whole contest so far, it's performed flawlessly and doing the 
pre-tuning really made things run smooth.  

There are those who have complained that the KAT500 is noisy when tuning, well, 
I'd rather hear it tuning and hear the click or two when it changes segments.  
That way I know it's working and it's comforting to know it's doing it's job 
during a contest where one doesn't really have time to mess with such things.  
There's only one place, right around 1825 KHz where the complex impedance of my 
particular inverted L configuration seems to confuse the tuner.  It has to tune 
every 2KHz or so from 1823 up through around 1828 and occasionally I'd run into 
that when running search  pounce mode and I'd call someone in that segment 
of the band.  I'm sure it's my antenna configuration and not the tuner because 
it runs perfectly everywhere else and on all the other bands.  It will even 
match the 1/4 wave 160 meter inverted L in the CW segment of 80 meters without 
complaining too much.  The only real 80 meter antenna I have is a Butternut 
HF2V vertical so it's nice that the KAT500 will
  work with the L on 80 (all the WARC bands too).

Thanks Elecraft for producing one of the nicest high-power antenna tuners on 
the market.  It rounds out the K line very nicely.

Jim Sheldon - W0EB
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Re: [Elecraft] APF

2013-12-08 Thread John Oppenheimer
I too often use APF on both the K3 and KX3. I prefer tuning APF with 1
Hz steps.

The KX3 enables 1 HZ steps when APF is enabled. I miss that feature with
the K3.

A new feature request; when in SPLIT and VFO A at 1 Hz, leave VFO B at
10 Hz.

John KN5L

On 12/08/2013 04:48 AM, Bill W4ZV wrote:
 I use APF virtually all
 the time and never use RIT, SHIFT, etc.  Just HOLD DUAL PB to actuate APF
 and use the VFO to zero beat.  COARSE (10 Hz) VFO steps is usually close
 enough but you can switch to FINE (1 Hz) if necessary for ultra weak
 signals.
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Re: [Elecraft] APF

2013-12-08 Thread Mike K2MK
I agree with Bill. There's no need to fiddle with the RIT control. I think
Dusty's original suggestion implies that he found the APF to be more
effective at a slightly lower frequency (20Hz lower) than his nominal CW
pitch setting. This may be true but it can be more easily accomplished by
tuning the signal a bit lower in frequency with the main VFO. Then just
tweak the APF center frequency with the SHIFT knob. 

Dusty's suggestion may appeal to some because it doesn't shift your transmit
frequency 20Hz off of zero beat. In the grand scheme, however, 20Hz off of
zero beat is hardly noticeable. 

The important thing here is to play with the APF and learn how to use it.
You don't have to wait for weak signals. You can experiment with medium
strength signals. Then once you get the hang of it you'll be good to go when
trying to pull out a weak one. But don't expect the APF to pull them all in.
The APF has its limitations.

73,
Mike K2MK


Bill W4ZV wrote
 IMHO K3WC's APF suggestion is WAY TOO COMPLICATED.  I use APF virtually
 all the time and never use RIT, SHIFT, etc.  Just HOLD DUAL PB to actuate
 APF and use the VFO to zero beat.  COARSE (10 Hz) VFO steps is usually
 close enough but you can switch to FINE (1 Hz) if necessary for ultra weak
 signals.  I also strongly endorse N6KR's suggestion below:
 
 I suggest setting the passband width to about 250-300 Hz when using APF.
 
 This is extremely important since bandwidths too narrow will introduce
 additional ringing to the APF which already borders on ringing.  I
 actually use a 200 Hz XFIL but set to actuate at DSP 400 Hz.  With WIDTH
 set to 400 Hz, the signal first goes through the relatively broad (4.0
 shape factor) 200 Hz XFIL, then a 400 Hz DSP and finally the narrow APF. 
 This makes the cascaded XFIL/DSP look more like 250 Hz, reduces ringing,
 still allows you to hear off-frequency callers (although attenuated) and
 helps your ears discriminate weak signals from noise by providing a wider
 background sample of noise.
 
 73,  Bill  W4ZV
 
 Scott Monks wrote
 Sam;
  Your explanation is really good Sam, but it seems that something
 doesn't follow for me.
 
 cut...
 
Turn on the RIT control (tap the RIT button). Next, lower the RIT 
frequency -20 Hz. (You must have CONFIG:PB CTRL in the config menu set 
to .01 to move in 10 Hz steps). If your pitch is set to 500 Hz, then the 
tone of the CW should now be 480 Hz. Next, turn on the APF by HOLDING 
the DUAL PB button. Adjust the APF using the SHIFT Fc Knob (now APF 
control). Move the APF down -20 Hz to match the CW signal. Once you have 
the signal in the center of the new 480 Hz tone you should hear that the 
CW signal pops up about 5 or 6 dB
Ok, I did this, first setting my pitch at 500 Hz, which actually even cut
out some ringing!  I got the station centered, etc., turned RIT down -20,
activated APF, but then the problem began.
 
 I am not sure what the SHIFT Fc Knob is--if it is just the regular
 Shift-Lo knob then this doesn't do anything for me when I turn it. Is
 this the right knob?  Do I need something turned on in CONFIG for it to
 work?
 
 
 I have had my K3 a little more than 1yr., and I sort of remember that
 MAYBE I could move the passband once at first, but I my be remembering
 bad!
 
 Thanks for the help.  73
 
 
 Scott  
 
 AA0AA; XE1/AA0AA





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[Elecraft] [P3] Errant spike moving the wrong way

2013-12-08 Thread Barry
Running in FixTrack mode, while tuning, I noticed a spike moving in the
opposite direction and about twice as fast as the rest of the crowd.  I
didn't hear anything when I tuned to its frequency.  What is it?
Barry W2UP



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Re: [Elecraft] K144XV Option

2013-12-08 Thread Joel Black
Thanks for all the replies regarding the K144XV option. For some reason, 
I never got them in my email reader - they seem to be filtered. Have I 
filtered myself? I do not know.


I may purchase at a later date, but for now, I'll have to keep what I 
have. I have to sell the ID-880H and have it fully fund the K144XV. 
Unfortunately, that is not possible given all the additional equipment 
I'd have to buy to keep my current capabilities. To have it replace what 
I have, I'd have to purchase the 13 MHz FM filter which I do not have.


However, that is not to say that I will *not* buy that option.

Years ago, I was big into amateur satellites. That era of my amateur 
radio hobby ended with the lack of reliable linear transponder 
satellites and the restrictions that came about after the events of 
9/11/2001. This is neither the time nor the place for political 
arguments regarding those decisions and I do not debate news or politics 
anymore. That said, I still have a couple of 2m antennas I used for 
satellite work. One of them is a dual-polarized (not circular) Cushcraft 
that might work nicely for terrestrial 2m CW.


Terrestrial 2m CW really intrigues me.

73,
Joel - W4JBB
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[Elecraft] [K3] Diversity antenna experiences?

2013-12-08 Thread Jim Miller
I put up an inverted L for the 160 contest and as expected my beverages did
a nice job of improving the receive performance over it. The inverted L did
a good job of spraying my 500w watts around and I'm satisfied with it as
well. Best LOTW confirmed DX so far is Ukraine. Not bad for the first few
days.

I did experience quite a bit of QSB as expected and would like to play with
diversity. My brief attempt at doing diversity with the inverted L in
combination with the beverage wasn't encouraging however. The S/N of the
inverted L in the left ear only provided a distraction trying to discern
the better S/N but fading signal in the right from the beverage.

At this point my primary interest is 160m diversity implementations. Any
suggestions based on experience with an inverted L and beverage? Any
suggestions for a second antenna other than these two that would
potentially work better when combined with the beverage?

Note: I'm on a partially wooded 1 acre lot in a HOA so big receive
structures like an 8 circle aren't possible. My beverages are BOGs for that
reason.

Thanks

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Diversity antenna experiences?

2013-12-08 Thread Craig Smith
Sounds like a fairly good experience overall, Jim.   

I'm on an even smaller ( 0.25 acre) HOA restricted lot and had an inverted L 
on 160 that I used in conjunction with a K9AY receive antenna.   I really liked 
the K9AY, as it allowed for directional switching and very good S/N ratios with 
a very small footprint.   Much better at RX than the inverted L.   I also had 
it set up for diversity but noted the same thing you did with your BOG Beverage 
- the K9AY was so much better I just ended up using it without diversity for RX.

One issue is that for optimal diversity reception the two antennas need to be 
spaced a fair distance apart in terms of wavelength.   I certainly didn't have 
that here (K9AY and inverted L only about 60 feet apart).   Even with your one 
acre, you might not have enough separation, depending on your layout.

73  Craig   AC0DS



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Diversity antenna experiences?

2013-12-08 Thread Ken Widelitz
I recently installed the new Shared Apex Loop Array from Array Solutions.
While I installed the 20' model, the 12' model has a much smaller footprint.
The 20' model works amazingly well and the specs show the 12' model doesn't
give up much.

73, Ken, K6LA / VY2TT



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[Elecraft] 80w 2m amp

2013-12-08 Thread Jeff Herr
I am waiting for the 2m option to be released from Elecraft for the KX3.

 

This 80w amp   ( http://www.w6pql.com/2_meter_80w_all_mode_amplifier.htm )
looks like a good fit.

 

I need to choose appropriate input attenuation.  What kind of output power
can I expect?

 

Jeff Herr,  WW6L

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2013-12-08 Thread kev...@coho.net
Good Morning,
   I awoke to a very brisk morning.  Last night was the coldest thus far. 
However, much of the US is far colder.  It has not dropped to single
digits in a few years.  It appears this winter will be a hard one here.
 But all the wood I cut last month is heating the house quite well. 
Now to route some of that heat to the radio shack so my fingers can
move during net times.

   Propagation was good on 30 meters this week.  I also experienced 160
meters for a few hours.  On Friday night it was very good.  Lots of
operators and far more laid back than any other contest I have tried. 
I went to the low end of the band and worked a few of them.  Very slow
QSB meant you had to wait for a minute or two when the station you were
after slowly faded and then came back again.

   Please join us this afternoon and evening.

14050 kHz at 2300z Sunday (3 PM PST Sunday)
 7045 kHz at 0200z Monday (6 PM PST Sunday)

  73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS

-

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Diversity antenna experiences?

2013-12-08 Thread ai2n
Hi Jim.

I also am on a small (125' square) lot, in the city.

I have been using BOGs and 14'x29' Flags, with an 80 meter inverted L 
base-loaded for 160.

This year I added a 20' Shared Apex Loop Array.  Yes, my antennas are too close 
to each other.  The SALA routinely outperforms the Flags.  Sometimes the BOGs 
are best for a given station, sometimes the SALA.  When I was running Stateside 
this weekend I would listen South and West simultaneously.  It seemed to work 
well.

Additionally, you may want to float or detune your inverted L during rx, 
especially if your rx antennas are close.  My tx antenna was re-radiating quite 
a bit of noise; floating it cured the problem. 

73, Redd - AI2N

 Jim Miller j...@jtmiller.com wrote: 
 I put up an inverted L for the 160 contest and as expected my beverages did
 a nice job of improving the receive performance over it. The inverted L did
 a good job of spraying my 500w watts around and I'm satisfied with it as
 well. Best LOTW confirmed DX so far is Ukraine. Not bad for the first few
 days.
 
 I did experience quite a bit of QSB as expected and would like to play with
 diversity. My brief attempt at doing diversity with the inverted L in
 combination with the beverage wasn't encouraging however. The S/N of the
 inverted L in the left ear only provided a distraction trying to discern
 the better S/N but fading signal in the right from the beverage.
 
 At this point my primary interest is 160m diversity implementations. Any
 suggestions based on experience with an inverted L and beverage? Any
 suggestions for a second antenna other than these two that would
 potentially work better when combined with the beverage?
 
 Note: I'm on a partially wooded 1 acre lot in a HOA so big receive
 structures like an 8 circle aren't possible. My beverages are BOGs for that
 reason.
 
 Thanks
 
 jim ab3cv
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[Elecraft] ATU IN KXPA100

2013-12-08 Thread Bob N3MNT
I noticed that the ATU in my KXPA100 is not tuning my antenna quite as good
as the ATU in the KX3. Example : with ny OCD on 80M (3653) Ant analyzer
shows SWR1.7:1 KX3 ATU alone tunes to 1.0:1  KXPA100 ATU tunes to 1.3:1. 
Not a major problem.   Is this to be expected or should I be checking ant/
connections?




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[Elecraft] KX3 roofing filters

2013-12-08 Thread JEFFREY BLUMENFELD
Thanks to all for replies and tips.  Turns out that the radio as I received it 
(factory assembled) had the “xfil3” setting for the roofing filters at “not 
install” rather than at “nor”

I changed the setting to “nor” and now the roofing filters do kick in as I 
narrow the BW with the PBT control.

72,  Jeff  KB3DX
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Re: [Elecraft] 80w 2m amp

2013-12-08 Thread David Anderson
According to this FAQ it is in the range 3 to 5 watts, to be determined.

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/KX3-2M%20FAQ.htm

73

David Anderson GM4JJJ 

 On 8 Dec 2013, at 17:43, Jeff Herr her...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 I am waiting for the 2m option to be released from Elecraft for the KX3.
 
 
 
 This 80w amp   ( http://www.w6pql.com/2_meter_80w_all_mode_amplifier.htm )
 looks like a good fit.
 
 
 
 I need to choose appropriate input attenuation.  What kind of output power
 can I expect?
 
 
 
 Jeff Herr,  WW6L
 
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[Elecraft] Flex 1500 KXPA100

2013-12-08 Thread Chris Johnson
I am sure this isn't a surprise to anyone, but I wanted to get it on the 
record.   I hooked my little Flex 1500 up to the KXPA100 with just a keyline 
and it works fantastic.   This makes me regret selling my 3000 much less now.   
I also tested this on my FT-817 and it works too.   I am waiting for the 
documentation or purchasable cable to use the amp with band switching  ALC on 
the Yaesu.

Chris
K6OZY
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Re: [Elecraft] APF

2013-12-08 Thread Scott Monks
Hi all, and Sam;
 




Message: 7
Date:
 Sat, 07 Dec 2013 19:38:20 -0600
From: Sam Morgan k5oai@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] APF
Message-ID: 52a3cd8c.2090...@gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

1st of all let me be clear, I was merely quoting from my notes that I
had copied from a post (or web site?) that Dusty K3WC wrote

that said
yes it
 was the Shift knob Dusty was speaking of
calling it the Shift Fc (frequency) knob

when I turn mine it says (in the VFO B window)
APF *0.48     (my pitch is set for 480hz)
so I have to turn the Shift knob until I see it say APF 0.46
meaning it's at 460hz or 20hz below my default pitch of 480hz
Sam, you are doing fine in explaining, Thanks!  I searched around on my hard 
drive and found the piece that Dusty wrote--I also had downloaded it and saved 
it but I didn't mark where I got it, just his call.

The problem WAS, that using the shift in APF wouldn't move anything (only 
showed FC *0.50 in the VFO B window).   I went to Fred's book and found that 
Dual PB needed to be set to APF in the CONFIG (mine some how got set to nor). 
 Putting that right has completely changed things!  I had about given up on 
using APF but now it works as it should and I feel good!  Thanks for helping me 
straighten that out, Sam and Bill, W4ZV.

Now I can get back to trying to get a valid contact with T32RC--I have worked 
them 3 times on CW and they have never logged my call correctly even though I 
thought they had it.  

Thanks all--as always, good help here!

73 and good DX,
Scott  AA0AA;  XE1/AA0AA
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[Elecraft] HDSDR Mirrored spectrum

2013-12-08 Thread Chris Johnson
I followed the guide on HDSDR's website for the KX3 and it IS working, but it 
is odd vs all my other SDR radios.   The RF seems mirrored on both sides of the 
center DC spike.   Is this normal?

I'm using an iMic with the RXIQ setup using the HDSDR KX3 guide exactly.  
Tuning works great.  Input sampling rate of 48K.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jx6tpp29olg2tci/Screenshot%202013-12-08%2016.52.45.png
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Re: [Elecraft] HDSDR Mirrored spectrum

2013-12-08 Thread Mike WA8BXN
Mirror images generally mean you are not getting both I and Q audio into the
program. Most common cause is not having stereo input on sound card on
computer but iMic is stereo. I would check cable. 

 

73 - Mike WA8BXN 

 

 

 

 

---Original Message--- 

 

From: Chris Johnson 

Date: 12/8/2013 7:01:29 PM 

To: Elecraft Reflector 

Subject: [Elecraft] HDSDR Mirrored spectrum 

 

I followed the guide on HDSDR's website for the KX3 and it IS working, but
it is odd vs all my other SDR radios. The RF seems mirrored on both sides of
the center DC spike. Is this normal? 

 

I'm using an iMic with the RXIQ setup using the HDSDR KX3 guide exactly.
Tuning works great. Input sampling rate of 48K. 

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jx6tpp29olg2tci/Screenshot%202013-12-08%2016.52.45
png 

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[Elecraft] K3 and N1MM using RTTY and PSK

2013-12-08 Thread jreedbum
I had fun using N1MM in the CQWWCW contest last week.  The N1MM online help
got me started with little problem.  Trying to get it working with RTTY was
a different story.  I never did succeed in getting a transmission out.By
the way I'm using a Rigblaster Advantage, which shares rig control and
soundcard control through the same com port.  This didn't seem to make a
difference with CW, though.Can anyone who has had success with N1MM in the
digital modes share their settings or point me to some documentation?

Reed AA1RB



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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-and-N1MM-using-RTTY-and-PSK-tp7581531.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K3 and KX3 in contests

2013-12-08 Thread Kenneth A Christiansen
Hi to the group

I earlier wished for a report of how the K3 and KX3 compared in a contest. Here 
is my report. I have run my K3 for 6 years in many contests and usually run in 
the 5 watt QRP class. I was always impressed by how much better the K3 handled 
close in QRM and full break in than my old transceivers. The P3 was added two 
years ago and I have become dependent on it. A couple contests have been run at 
100 watts but I was always surprised I did not do much better at 100 watts than 
I do at 5. I prefer the QRP  class because it is easier to place well and I 
have taken ND section in several contests at 5 watts.

This year I bought a KX3 and now I have used it in 3 contests. I ran out of 
battery on my logging computer during Field Day but the KX3 worked fine at 5 
watts for the 8 hours I was able to operate. I ran the KX3 at 5 watts CW along 
with the N3FJP logging program for the November Sweepstakes and I felt the KX3 
handled everything as well as the K3 except I missed the P3. I had an iMic and 
the program ROCKY but was not able to get them to work together for that 
contest. This group helped me get ROCKY and the iMic to work after the contest 
was over.

This week end I entered the ARRL 160 meter contest with the KX3 at 5 watts. I 
had the N3FJP logging program, WinKeyer USB, ROCKY and MixW all running 
together on my Windows 8.1 lap top. ROCKY did a good job of helping me find 
QSOs.  The KX3 receiver selectivity and break in seemed to work as well as on 
the K3. The only thing I missed on 160 was the use of my separate receiving 
antenna. There is an antenna switch in my system that can do that but I may add 
a relay to make it easier.

The KXPA 100 will be a lot of fun for camping and rag chewing when it comes but 
the KX3 is going to see many more 5 watt QRP contests. The K3 will be used at 
home without the station being pulled apart when I go camping.

73 and I hope this report helps someone.

Ken  W0CZ

Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] why KRX3 SUB RX

2013-12-08 Thread Jorge Diez - CX6VM
Hello

 

Will appreciate any feedback about the use of the second RX on the K3

 

what are the uses for which it is essential to have the second receiver?

 

I think is not necessary to work on SO2V, right?

 

Thanks,

Jorge

CX6VM/CW5W

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and N1MM using RTTY and PSK

2013-12-08 Thread Fred Jensen
I don't know much about Rigblaster Advantage, or Microham, or Signalink 
[OK, I don't know anything about them], but you might try the back to 
basics approach and get 2 stereo cables and connect LINE IN to LINE OUT 
and vice-versa, and go AFSK [DATA MD A].  I do this using the MMTTY RTTY 
engine in N1MM, I key the K3 with VOX [be sure to turn off all the 
annoying Windoze sounds, and N1MM can be configured to assert PTT for 
you if you coordinate it with the K3 menu options].


In AFSK with MMTTY, you have several discrete choices of MARK/SPACE 
tones [PITCH knob], I use 915Hz because I can hear it, and MMTTY must be 
set to the same.  You have the Windoze audio level controls, and those 
on the K3, and there's a combination for just about everyone.


This may not be the ideal situation for everyone, but it is pretty 
basic, it removes many of the points of failure, and honestly, it worked 
so well for me, I've never gone beyond it for RTTY [and PSK, although 
that's not a mode I enjoy].  I've used it for JT65, another mode I only 
enjoy when I sort of like my mind to wander while making Q's. :-)


My experience with trouble-shooting problems is, eliminate as much 
'stuff' as you can and see if the problem remains.


Best of luck, I've finally gotten to the point where I can go from my 
normal mode [CW] to RTTY in less than 30 mins.  I use the totally 
back-to-basics AFSK technique.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 12/8/2013 4:40 PM, jreedbum wrote:

I had fun using N1MM in the CQWWCW contest last week.  The N1MM online help
got me started with little problem.  Trying to get it working with RTTY was
a different story.  I never did succeed in getting a transmission out.By
the way I'm using a Rigblaster Advantage, which shares rig control and
soundcard control through the same com port.  This didn't seem to make a
difference with CW, though.Can anyone who has had success with N1MM in the
digital modes share their settings or point me to some documentation?

Reed AA1RB



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[Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

2013-12-08 Thread Jeff Cochrane

Hi everyone,
Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's with  
something else?
(Something like the 4 pin plugs and sockets that are fitted to most  
current YaeComWoods I guess)

Why do I want to replace them you ask?
Well, because my K3 gets around and more often than not sits on a wobbly  
table whilst I'm out in the scrub or occasionally even sits in my lap  
whilst I'm operating.
The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and keep  
disconnecting or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.
I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, sadly  
that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson powerpoles or all  
the different brands of knock-offs.




Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA
East Innisfail
QLD, Australia
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

2013-12-08 Thread Phil Kane
On 12/8/2013 5:45 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:

 The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and keep
 disconnecting or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.
 I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, sadly
 that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson powerpoles or
 all the different brands of knock-offs.

I have been using Powerpoles on my Elecraft and all other 12V devices in
this extensive radio room and *when made correctly* I have never
experienced that.  Note the emphasis.

Do we need to open this barrel of snakes again?

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

2013-12-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jeff,

Take a look at your Power Pole connectors - peer at them from the 
business end.
If the blade of the silver-metal contact is not firmly latched over the 
spring finger in the housing (you should not see the spring finger 
exposed), then the connector is not properly assembled.  Give the 
contact a generous push with a screwdriver or other instrument until the 
blade clicks over the spring finger retaining tab.


A properly assembled APP connector has good holding power, but an 
improperly assembled one will not have adequate retention, and may 
actually overheat with high resistive contact points.


73,
W3FPR

On 12/8/2013 8:45 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:

Hi everyone,
Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's 
with something else?
(Something like the 4 pin plugs and sockets that are fitted to most 
current YaeComWoods I guess)

Why do I want to replace them you ask?
Well, because my K3 gets around and more often than not sits on a 
wobbly table whilst I'm out in the scrub or occasionally even sits in 
my lap whilst I'm operating.
The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and keep 
disconnecting or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.
I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, 
sadly that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson 
powerpoles or all the different brands of knock-offs.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

2013-12-08 Thread Rick Bates
Rather than all that effort, why not use a screw hole style zip tie to
anchor it to your grounding point on the back of the radio?  That way, if it
gets moved, it pulls on the tie, not the connector.

73 es Happy Christmas,
Rick wa6nhc

-Original Message-
From: Jeff Cochrane

Hi everyone,
Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's with  
something else?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

2013-12-08 Thread Fred Jensen

On 12/8/2013 5:45 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:

Hi everyone,
Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's
with something else?


No, so far no reason to.


(Something like the 4 pin plugs and sockets that are fitted to most
current YaeComWoods I guess)


I've had them, they were no more reliable for me than APP's.


Why do I want to replace them you ask?
Well, because my K3 gets around and more often than not sits on a wobbly
table whilst I'm out in the scrub or occasionally even sits in my lap
whilst I'm operating. The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and 
keep
disconnecting or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.


I do SOTA activations with my K2 [APP's between it and the battery], and 
I've never, ever, had them disconnect before I pulled them out.  I've 
carried the radio around with the battery hanging from the pigtail and 
the coax-power connector comes out first.  In truth, I've never, ever, 
had an APP disconnect on me when I wasn't expecting it ... and no, 
Anderson PP do not send me money for this.


I did buy the approved crimper, and I did learn how to use it.  I've 
never had a failure.  Learning how to use the crimper was not a 
slam-dunk, I realized finally that exact positioning in the crimper and 
exact orientation of the wire was critical.



I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, sadly
that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson powerpoles or
all the different brands of knock-offs.


Knock-off's ... you get what you pay for.  I have used Chinese PL-259's, 
won't ever again, they are knockoffs, and they are hugely unreliable. 
And while Amphenol has not paid me to say this either, that's all I'll 
use.  Has nothing to do with Made in America, and everything to do 
with what really works ... and doesn't fail when you need it.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

2013-12-08 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I grabbed a strain gauge and checked powerpole connectors on two different
locations. Both required more than 4 lbs of force to separate them! So you
cannot actually pick up a fully loaded K3 without the plug disengaging, but
darn close to it.

Something is wrong with your APP connectors. I don't know what might provide
a more secure connection other than a screw-on Cannon connector.  

73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Cochrane
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2013 5:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

Hi everyone,
Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's with
something else?
(Something like the 4 pin plugs and sockets that are fitted to most current
YaeComWoods I guess) Why do I want to replace them you ask?
Well, because my K3 gets around and more often than not sits on a wobbly
table whilst I'm out in the scrub or occasionally even sits in my lap whilst
I'm operating.
The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and keep disconnecting
or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.
I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, sadly
that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson powerpoles or all
the different brands of knock-offs.



Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA
East Innisfail
QLD, Australia
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

2013-12-08 Thread Bill Conkling
If the PP is not correctly assembled, just immobilizing the connection will
not solve the underlying poor connection.  As Don said, they should be
correctly assembled first.  If you still have problems, then immobilizing
the connector may be appropriate.

...bill  nr4c

-Original Message-
From: Rick Bates [mailto:happymooseph...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2013 10:03 PM
To: vk...@arrl.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

Rather than all that effort, why not use a screw hole style zip tie to
anchor it to your grounding point on the back of the radio?  That way, if it
gets moved, it pulls on the tie, not the connector.

73 es Happy Christmas,
Rick wa6nhc

-Original Message-
From: Jeff Cochrane

Hi everyone,
Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's with  
something else?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

2013-12-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jeff,

I am not sure what your circumstances are, but I have found that the APP 
connectors are more durable than the Molex connectors typically used by 
the YakIcKenwood gear.


Perhaps you do not have any slack in the cables, and any movement of 
either the cable or the gear will create a force sufficient to separate 
the connector.  A bit of slack in the cable should prevent that condition.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/8/2013 10:42 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:
On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 13:01:06 +1000, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com 
wrote:

Hi Don,
Thanks for the reply but I'm talking about Elecraft factory installed 
APP's both in the radio and on the cable.


I have also made my own cables using genuine and non-genuine APP's and 
they are exactly the same, they will NOT stay together under actual 
portable operating conditions.


Upon inspection through a magnifying glass all connectors I have here 
are indeed assembled correctly and this is the SECOND K3 I've with 
similar issues. (The first radio I had owned from new (#4257))


In the case of my first K3 it would overheat the connectors that were 
soldered into the PCB!
Granted it had an issue with extremely poor soldering of the 
connectors but the fact remains that on that radio and the one I 
presently own, the APP's are not up to snuff.
They just do not grip each other well enough to cope with the rigours 
of operating portable in the bush and other adverse environments.
Hence my desire to change out the APP's and go for something that is 
considerably tougher.


I've also had a few emails off the list so far that are also detailing 
similar issues and doubts with APP's and I have no doubt that I will 
be getting more.


I guess that I've found the reason why APP's are not an approved 
connector for any emergency gear by any emergency authority in any 
country as they are just too unreliable.


As I live in an area that regularly gets cyclones (hurricanes) and 
flooding each year I want be be able to rely on my gear in case of an 
emergency as well as my normal day to day operations, therefore I 
really want to ditch these unreliable connectors and get something 
decent installed.


So my question stands, what are my alternatives?




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