Re: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires
It's true ! Very good Phil...fascinating discussion. 73, F5VJC a Crimper On 12 December 2013 02:39, Phil Hystad wrote: > My wife claims that ham radio operators only talk about boring subjects > like "Antennas" when they are on the air. I had to show her this latest > stream on crimpers to prove to her that life in ham radio is not only an > adrenaline rush but informative too. > > > On Dec 11, 2013, at 5:20 PM, Harlan wrote: > > > I run a calibration lab. We use go-no go gauges to test crimpers. The > allowed tolerance for the gauges are three-ten thousands of an inch... yes > good crimpers are an accurate instrument... and they should only be used > with lugs/wire sizes specified for them > > > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID > > > > Walter Underwood wrote: > > > >> I agree. The point of a good crimper is to get a controlled force on > the joint to create a reliable mechanical-electrical joint. Putting > something springy in there, like insulation, is asking for trouble. > >> > >> wunder > >> K6WRU > >> > >> On Dec 11, 2013, at 3:48 PM, bill conkling wrote: > >> > >>> Crimping the wire over the insulation doesn't seem too good to me. > >>> > >>> I have used a dab of hot melt glue to stabilize the wire at the rear > of the PP Plastic. > >>> > >>> ...bill nr4c > >>> > >>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID > >>> > >>> EricJ wrote: > >>> > I don't usually do that because the wire exiting the APP barrel is > still > just a small strand that flexes easily and can eventually break. It > gives you a lot more surface area for crimping, but needs strain > relief > to be secure in the long run. > > What I do is strip the wire the same length as normal, then fold it > back > over the insulation. I insert the wire and insulation into the barrel > with the wire down (away from the split in the barrel), then crimp > normally. This makes a solid electrical connection with the stiffness > of > the wire insulation which also provides more than adequate strain > relief. > > I've mentioned it here before and some are aghast, but I have maybe a > dozen connections like that currently in my shack and not one of them > has ever failed in the 10 years I've been doing it with APPs. But any > connection where this is necessary is a low voltage, low current DC > connection so what's it going to hurt? It isn't any worse electrically > than using a small wire nut which is considered safe enough even for > house wiring. > > Eric > KE6US > > > > On 12/11/2013 9:41 AM, Edward R Cole wrote: > > A little off topic: > > > > I wonder if any of you do what I do when using wires are too small > for > > crimp connectors? I strip twice as much insulation from the end of > > the wire and then fold the bare wire over double. May have to > squeeze > > using small nose pliers to get it doubled tight enough to fit inside > > the crimp connector. The crimps hold the undersized wire very well > > with this procedure. > > > > BTW this works for solid conductor wire, like hookup wire. Bend the > > conductor double and there is something for the crimp to hold. > > > > I do not know if this will work with powerpole connectors. My > problem > > was having too large diameter wire for the powerpole connectors which > > inhibited proper crimping; solution chose proper size connector for > > the wire size selected. > > > > 73, Ed - KL7UW > > > > - > > Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 09:00:11 -0500 > > From: Don Wilhelm > > To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" , elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement > > Message-ID: <52a86feb.2070...@embarqmail.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > > > Charlie, > > > > The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity > with > > wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if > > the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the > > barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for > extra > > security. > > > > 73, > > Don W3FPR > > > > > > > > 73, Ed - KL7UW > > http://www.kl7uw.com > > dubus...@gmail.com > > "Kits made by KL7UW" > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > > > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://m
[Elecraft] Recovering from failure of KX3 firmware rev. 1.79 load ("ERR DSE", etc., shown on KX3 LCD)
If you see "ERR DSE" on the KX3's LCD after attempting to load rev. 1.79 firmware, and/or KX3 Utility reports a load failure, try the following: 1. Tap the KX3's DISP button enough times for the ERR messages to go away. 2. On the KX3 Utility Firmware tab, View Menu, check “Advanced Mode”. Check boxes should appear in the Firmware Revisions group. 3. Check "Load DSP" but not "Load MCU." Click “Send Checked Items to KX3”. The DSP should now load. If you still have difficulty, contact customer support. Note that we're also going to update KX3 Utility tomorrow to a more recent version that results in a cleaner load process. Wayne N6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires
The APP connectors offer support to prevent the wires flexing at the point of entry to the connector *if* the correct size wire is used so the insulation fits snugly. If I felt compelled to use an undersize wire I'd add a sleeve where the insulation enters the connector - maybe some wraps of tape - to the wire is held securely forcing any bending to occur outside of the connector. It's my understanding (mostly from the avionics industry) that soldering certain connections is not allowed or at least not recommended not because the soldered connection might fail where a crimp wouldn't but wherever an over-current might melt the solder and let it flow into undesired places. In my experience in the electronics industry, we chose crimping over soldering because it was easier to train a new worker how to use a quality crimp tool than it was to solder. Time = money, especially in avionics where the turnover tends to be high. That's not to suggest that crimping is not every bit as good as soldering when done by someone with the proper training using a good-quality crimp too. And like poor soldering, poorly crimped connections can work just fine for years and years in many cases. Unless you are a manufacturer studying failures of a lot of joints over time you may never see the difference between an average soldered joint and a mediocre crimp join. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of EricJ Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 10:44 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires I don't usually do that because the wire exiting the APP barrel is still just a small strand that flexes easily and can eventually break. It gives you a lot more surface area for crimping, but needs strain relief to be secure in the long run. What I do is strip the wire the same length as normal, then fold it back over the insulation. I insert the wire and insulation into the barrel with the wire down (away from the split in the barrel), then crimp normally. This makes a solid electrical connection with the stiffness of the wire insulation which also provides more than adequate strain relief. I've mentioned it here before and some are aghast, but I have maybe a dozen connections like that currently in my shack and not one of them has ever failed in the 10 years I've been doing it with APPs. But any connection where this is necessary is a low voltage, low current DC connection so what's it going to hurt? It isn't any worse electrically than using a small wire nut which is considered safe enough even for house wiring. Eric KE6US __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KX3 Production Firmware rev 1.79: DTMF, low-distortion FM RX, better SSB QRP behavior, etc.
KX3 production firmware rev 1.79 (with DSP rev 1.27) is now available. Since the last production firmware release (1.61), we've made the following improvements: * Full support for KXPA100 amp and KXAT100 ATU * More accurate power output control in SSB mode for settings under 2 W * Lower-distortion FM receive * FM transmit deviation max now 6 kHz (was 5 kHz) * Added DTMF tone generation (FM Mode only) using numeric keys * DATA-A/AFSK-A mode bug fix: MIC GAIN control now works as specified. In earlier releases, adjustment of keyer speed while using the CW-in-SSB feature would leave the MIC GAIN control set to keyer speed even when the user switched to an audio data mode. ** IMPORTANT NOTE ** You'll need the *most recent* version of our KX3 Utility application to download and install the new KX3 firmware. Older versions of KX3 Utility may not load the KX3's DSP firmware correctly, due to increased flash memory requirements. For instructions on obtaining KX3 Utility, see: http://www.elecraft.com/KX3/KX3_software.htm Production firmware releases are automatically downloaded from our FTP server when you click "Copy Files from Elecraft" from within KX3 Utility. 73, Wayne N6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires
Hi Harlan, Maybe if you could test and report on a few of the crimpers sold in the ham market that would be informative. Especially on coax crimpers. The good crimper frames show up on EBay for $75 to $100. New the dies are over $100 per coax type. I like Kings. Possibily an article for one of the Ham magazines. But even with the good commercial crimpers I'm firmly in the anti PowerPole camp. 73, Bob K2TK ex KN2TKR (1956) & K2TKR On 12/11/2013 8:20 PM, Harlan wrote: I run a calibration lab. We use go-no go gauges to test crimpers. The allowed tolerance for the gauges are three-ten thousands of an inch... yes good crimpers are an accurate instrument... and they should only be used with lugs/wire sizes specified for them Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID Walter Underwood wrote: I agree. The point of a good crimper is to get a controlled force on the joint to create a reliable mechanical-electrical joint. Putting something springy in there, like insulation, is asking for trouble. wunder K6WRU On Dec 11, 2013, at 3:48 PM, bill conkling wrote: Crimping the wire over the insulation doesn't seem too good to me. I have used a dab of hot melt glue to stabilize the wire at the rear of the PP Plastic. ...bill nr4c Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID EricJ wrote: I don't usually do that because the wire exiting the APP barrel is still just a small strand that flexes easily and can eventually break. It gives you a lot more surface area for crimping, but needs strain relief to be secure in the long run. What I do is strip the wire the same length as normal, then fold it back over the insulation. I insert the wire and insulation into the barrel with the wire down (away from the split in the barrel), then crimp normally. This makes a solid electrical connection with the stiffness of the wire insulation which also provides more than adequate strain relief. I've mentioned it here before and some are aghast, but I have maybe a dozen connections like that currently in my shack and not one of them has ever failed in the 10 years I've been doing it with APPs. But any connection where this is necessary is a low voltage, low current DC connection so what's it going to hurt? It isn't any worse electrically than using a small wire nut which is considered safe enough even for house wiring. Eric KE6US On 12/11/2013 9:41 AM, Edward R Cole wrote: A little off topic: I wonder if any of you do what I do when using wires are too small for crimp connectors? I strip twice as much insulation from the end of the wire and then fold the bare wire over double. May have to squeeze using small nose pliers to get it doubled tight enough to fit inside the crimp connector. The crimps hold the undersized wire very well with this procedure. BTW this works for solid conductor wire, like hookup wire. Bend the conductor double and there is something for the crimp to hold. I do not know if this will work with powerpole connectors. My problem was having too large diameter wire for the powerpole connectors which inhibited proper crimping; solution chose proper size connector for the wire size selected. 73, Ed - KL7UW - Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 09:00:11 -0500 From: Don Wilhelm To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" , elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement Message-ID: <52a86feb.2070...@embarqmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Charlie, The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity with wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra security. 73, Don W3FPR 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com dubus...@gmail.com "Kits made by KL7UW" __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org _
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires
Phil, Don't forget tuners, amps, and power supplies. Oh, let me not forget: spectrum analyzers, ad infinitum. 73, Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 7:39 PM To: Harlan Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires My wife claims that ham radio operators only talk about boring subjects like "Antennas" when they are on the air. I had to show her this latest stream on crimpers to prove to her that life in ham radio is not only an adrenaline rush but informative too. On Dec 11, 2013, at 5:20 PM, Harlan wrote: > I run a calibration lab. We use go-no go gauges to test crimpers. The > allowed tolerance for the gauges are three-ten thousands of an inch... > yes good crimpers are an accurate instrument... and they should only > be used with lugs/wire sizes specified for them > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID > > Walter Underwood wrote: > >> I agree. The point of a good crimper is to get a controlled force on the joint to create a reliable mechanical-electrical joint. Putting something springy in there, like insulation, is asking for trouble. >> >> wunder >> K6WRU >> >> On Dec 11, 2013, at 3:48 PM, bill conkling wrote: >> >>> Crimping the wire over the insulation doesn't seem too good to me. >>> >>> I have used a dab of hot melt glue to stabilize the wire at the rear of the PP Plastic. >>> >>> ...bill nr4c >>> >>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID >>> >>> EricJ wrote: >>> I don't usually do that because the wire exiting the APP barrel is still just a small strand that flexes easily and can eventually break. It gives you a lot more surface area for crimping, but needs strain relief to be secure in the long run. What I do is strip the wire the same length as normal, then fold it back over the insulation. I insert the wire and insulation into the barrel with the wire down (away from the split in the barrel), then crimp normally. This makes a solid electrical connection with the stiffness of the wire insulation which also provides more than adequate strain relief. I've mentioned it here before and some are aghast, but I have maybe a dozen connections like that currently in my shack and not one of them has ever failed in the 10 years I've been doing it with APPs. But any connection where this is necessary is a low voltage, low current DC connection so what's it going to hurt? It isn't any worse electrically than using a small wire nut which is considered safe enough even for house wiring. Eric KE6US On 12/11/2013 9:41 AM, Edward R Cole wrote: > A little off topic: > > I wonder if any of you do what I do when using wires are too small > for crimp connectors? I strip twice as much insulation from the > end of the wire and then fold the bare wire over double. May have > to squeeze using small nose pliers to get it doubled tight enough > to fit inside the crimp connector. The crimps hold the undersized > wire very well with this procedure. > > BTW this works for solid conductor wire, like hookup wire. Bend > the conductor double and there is something for the crimp to hold. > > I do not know if this will work with powerpole connectors. My > problem was having too large diameter wire for the powerpole > connectors which inhibited proper crimping; solution chose proper > size connector for the wire size selected. > > 73, Ed - KL7UW > > - > Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 09:00:11 -0500 > From: Don Wilhelm > To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" , > elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement > Message-ID: <52a86feb.2070...@embarqmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Charlie, > > The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity > with wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 > wire - if the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to > filling the barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some > solder for extra security. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > > 73, Ed - KL7UW > http://www.kl7uw.com > dubus...@gmail.com > "Kits made by KL7UW" > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this > email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > >
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires
My wife claims that ham radio operators only talk about boring subjects like "Antennas" when they are on the air. I had to show her this latest stream on crimpers to prove to her that life in ham radio is not only an adrenaline rush but informative too. On Dec 11, 2013, at 5:20 PM, Harlan wrote: > I run a calibration lab. We use go-no go gauges to test crimpers. The allowed > tolerance for the gauges are three-ten thousands of an inch... yes good > crimpers are an accurate instrument... and they should only be used with > lugs/wire sizes specified for them > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID > > Walter Underwood wrote: > >> I agree. The point of a good crimper is to get a controlled force on the >> joint to create a reliable mechanical-electrical joint. Putting something >> springy in there, like insulation, is asking for trouble. >> >> wunder >> K6WRU >> >> On Dec 11, 2013, at 3:48 PM, bill conkling wrote: >> >>> Crimping the wire over the insulation doesn't seem too good to me. >>> >>> I have used a dab of hot melt glue to stabilize the wire at the rear of the >>> PP Plastic. >>> >>> ...bill nr4c >>> >>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID >>> >>> EricJ wrote: >>> I don't usually do that because the wire exiting the APP barrel is still just a small strand that flexes easily and can eventually break. It gives you a lot more surface area for crimping, but needs strain relief to be secure in the long run. What I do is strip the wire the same length as normal, then fold it back over the insulation. I insert the wire and insulation into the barrel with the wire down (away from the split in the barrel), then crimp normally. This makes a solid electrical connection with the stiffness of the wire insulation which also provides more than adequate strain relief. I've mentioned it here before and some are aghast, but I have maybe a dozen connections like that currently in my shack and not one of them has ever failed in the 10 years I've been doing it with APPs. But any connection where this is necessary is a low voltage, low current DC connection so what's it going to hurt? It isn't any worse electrically than using a small wire nut which is considered safe enough even for house wiring. Eric KE6US On 12/11/2013 9:41 AM, Edward R Cole wrote: > A little off topic: > > I wonder if any of you do what I do when using wires are too small for > crimp connectors? I strip twice as much insulation from the end of > the wire and then fold the bare wire over double. May have to squeeze > using small nose pliers to get it doubled tight enough to fit inside > the crimp connector. The crimps hold the undersized wire very well > with this procedure. > > BTW this works for solid conductor wire, like hookup wire. Bend the > conductor double and there is something for the crimp to hold. > > I do not know if this will work with powerpole connectors. My problem > was having too large diameter wire for the powerpole connectors which > inhibited proper crimping; solution chose proper size connector for > the wire size selected. > > 73, Ed - KL7UW > > - > Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 09:00:11 -0500 > From: Don Wilhelm > To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" , elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement > Message-ID: <52a86feb.2070...@embarqmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Charlie, > > The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity with > wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if > the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the > barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra > security. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > > 73, Ed - KL7UW > http://www.kl7uw.com > dubus...@gmail.com > "Kits made by KL7UW" > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >>> _
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires
I run a calibration lab. We use go-no go gauges to test crimpers. The allowed tolerance for the gauges are three-ten thousands of an inch... yes good crimpers are an accurate instrument... and they should only be used with lugs/wire sizes specified for them Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID Walter Underwood wrote: >I agree. The point of a good crimper is to get a controlled force on the joint >to create a reliable mechanical-electrical joint. Putting something springy in >there, like insulation, is asking for trouble. > >wunder >K6WRU > >On Dec 11, 2013, at 3:48 PM, bill conkling wrote: > >> Crimping the wire over the insulation doesn't seem too good to me. >> >> I have used a dab of hot melt glue to stabilize the wire at the rear of the >> PP Plastic. >> >> ...bill nr4c >> >> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID >> >> EricJ wrote: >> >>> I don't usually do that because the wire exiting the APP barrel is still >>> just a small strand that flexes easily and can eventually break. It >>> gives you a lot more surface area for crimping, but needs strain relief >>> to be secure in the long run. >>> >>> What I do is strip the wire the same length as normal, then fold it back >>> over the insulation. I insert the wire and insulation into the barrel >>> with the wire down (away from the split in the barrel), then crimp >>> normally. This makes a solid electrical connection with the stiffness of >>> the wire insulation which also provides more than adequate strain relief. >>> >>> I've mentioned it here before and some are aghast, but I have maybe a >>> dozen connections like that currently in my shack and not one of them >>> has ever failed in the 10 years I've been doing it with APPs. But any >>> connection where this is necessary is a low voltage, low current DC >>> connection so what's it going to hurt? It isn't any worse electrically >>> than using a small wire nut which is considered safe enough even for >>> house wiring. >>> >>> Eric >>> KE6US >>> >>> >>> >>> On 12/11/2013 9:41 AM, Edward R Cole wrote: A little off topic: I wonder if any of you do what I do when using wires are too small for crimp connectors? I strip twice as much insulation from the end of the wire and then fold the bare wire over double. May have to squeeze using small nose pliers to get it doubled tight enough to fit inside the crimp connector. The crimps hold the undersized wire very well with this procedure. BTW this works for solid conductor wire, like hookup wire. Bend the conductor double and there is something for the crimp to hold. I do not know if this will work with powerpole connectors. My problem was having too large diameter wire for the powerpole connectors which inhibited proper crimping; solution chose proper size connector for the wire size selected. 73, Ed - KL7UW - Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 09:00:11 -0500 From: Don Wilhelm To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" , elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement Message-ID: <52a86feb.2070...@embarqmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Charlie, The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity with wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra security. 73, Don W3FPR 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com dubus...@gmail.com "Kits made by KL7UW" __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >>> >>> __ >>> Elecraft mailing list >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >>> >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >>> >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > >-- >Walter Underwood >wun...@wunderwood.org > > > >__ >Elecraft mailing l
[Elecraft] Strange K3 Lockup Problem
Has anyone experienced this strange K3 Lockup problem? For a second time my K3 locks up when I change bands while using N1MM. The first instance was two weeks ago when I entered a 20m frequency while on 15 meters. The same thing happened today. After the first lock up I called Elecraft and Tech Support told me it was communications buffer overload, shut down the radio, logging and any other software and reboot the computer. The problem occurred the first time during an afternoon CWops Mini Test event. This morning no problem then this afternoon the lockup occurred again which hints of a possible RF problem but why in the morning and not afternoon? I'll put a couple more clamp on ferrites on the microHam CW Keyer power, USB and Keying Cable to see if it helps. N1MM running on a one year old System 7 O/S, plenty of memory and nothing but N1MM and microHam Router / microHam CW Keyer running. The K3 receives on whatever frequency it is on but no front panel controls function upon lockup. Shutting down the K3, KPA, N1MM, microHam Router doesn't immediately resolve the lockup but wait 30 - 40 minutes and the K3 lockup problem resolves itself. Any suggestions will be appreciated: Update firmware for example? N1MM and microHam Router / CW Keyer are latest versions. Thanks in advance for any help or recommendations. 73, Jack W0UCE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires
On 12/11/2013 3:48 PM, bill conkling wrote: > Crimping the wire over the insulation doesn't seem too good to me. I've been doing that for years. All of the peripherals that run with my K2 (RigBlaster, PSKmeter, etc) have their connectors so made. Haven't had any problems as long as one does not overstress the small diameter wire by pulling on it too hard after it is installed into the connector. IOW handle the connector while making the joint. 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 >From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires
I agree. The point of a good crimper is to get a controlled force on the joint to create a reliable mechanical-electrical joint. Putting something springy in there, like insulation, is asking for trouble. wunder K6WRU On Dec 11, 2013, at 3:48 PM, bill conkling wrote: > Crimping the wire over the insulation doesn't seem too good to me. > > I have used a dab of hot melt glue to stabilize the wire at the rear of the > PP Plastic. > > ...bill nr4c > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID > > EricJ wrote: > >> I don't usually do that because the wire exiting the APP barrel is still >> just a small strand that flexes easily and can eventually break. It >> gives you a lot more surface area for crimping, but needs strain relief >> to be secure in the long run. >> >> What I do is strip the wire the same length as normal, then fold it back >> over the insulation. I insert the wire and insulation into the barrel >> with the wire down (away from the split in the barrel), then crimp >> normally. This makes a solid electrical connection with the stiffness of >> the wire insulation which also provides more than adequate strain relief. >> >> I've mentioned it here before and some are aghast, but I have maybe a >> dozen connections like that currently in my shack and not one of them >> has ever failed in the 10 years I've been doing it with APPs. But any >> connection where this is necessary is a low voltage, low current DC >> connection so what's it going to hurt? It isn't any worse electrically >> than using a small wire nut which is considered safe enough even for >> house wiring. >> >> Eric >> KE6US >> >> >> >> On 12/11/2013 9:41 AM, Edward R Cole wrote: >>> A little off topic: >>> >>> I wonder if any of you do what I do when using wires are too small for >>> crimp connectors? I strip twice as much insulation from the end of >>> the wire and then fold the bare wire over double. May have to squeeze >>> using small nose pliers to get it doubled tight enough to fit inside >>> the crimp connector. The crimps hold the undersized wire very well >>> with this procedure. >>> >>> BTW this works for solid conductor wire, like hookup wire. Bend the >>> conductor double and there is something for the crimp to hold. >>> >>> I do not know if this will work with powerpole connectors. My problem >>> was having too large diameter wire for the powerpole connectors which >>> inhibited proper crimping; solution chose proper size connector for >>> the wire size selected. >>> >>> 73, Ed - KL7UW >>> >>> - >>> Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 09:00:11 -0500 >>> From: Don Wilhelm >>> To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" , elecraft@mailman.qth.net >>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement >>> Message-ID: <52a86feb.2070...@embarqmail.com> >>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed >>> >>> Charlie, >>> >>> The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity with >>> wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if >>> the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the >>> barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra >>> security. >>> >>> 73, >>> Don W3FPR >>> >>> >>> >>> 73, Ed - KL7UW >>> http://www.kl7uw.com >>> dubus...@gmail.com >>> "Kits made by KL7UW" >>> __ >>> Elecraft mailing list >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >>> >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >>> >>> >> >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires
Crimping the wire over the insulation doesn't seem too good to me. I have used a dab of hot melt glue to stabilize the wire at the rear of the PP Plastic. ...bill nr4c Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID EricJ wrote: >I don't usually do that because the wire exiting the APP barrel is still >just a small strand that flexes easily and can eventually break. It >gives you a lot more surface area for crimping, but needs strain relief >to be secure in the long run. > >What I do is strip the wire the same length as normal, then fold it back >over the insulation. I insert the wire and insulation into the barrel >with the wire down (away from the split in the barrel), then crimp >normally. This makes a solid electrical connection with the stiffness of >the wire insulation which also provides more than adequate strain relief. > >I've mentioned it here before and some are aghast, but I have maybe a >dozen connections like that currently in my shack and not one of them >has ever failed in the 10 years I've been doing it with APPs. But any >connection where this is necessary is a low voltage, low current DC >connection so what's it going to hurt? It isn't any worse electrically >than using a small wire nut which is considered safe enough even for >house wiring. > >Eric >KE6US > > > >On 12/11/2013 9:41 AM, Edward R Cole wrote: >> A little off topic: >> >> I wonder if any of you do what I do when using wires are too small for >> crimp connectors? I strip twice as much insulation from the end of >> the wire and then fold the bare wire over double. May have to squeeze >> using small nose pliers to get it doubled tight enough to fit inside >> the crimp connector. The crimps hold the undersized wire very well >> with this procedure. >> >> BTW this works for solid conductor wire, like hookup wire. Bend the >> conductor double and there is something for the crimp to hold. >> >> I do not know if this will work with powerpole connectors. My problem >> was having too large diameter wire for the powerpole connectors which >> inhibited proper crimping; solution chose proper size connector for >> the wire size selected. >> >> 73, Ed - KL7UW >> >> - >> Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 09:00:11 -0500 >> From: Don Wilhelm >> To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" , elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement >> Message-ID: <52a86feb.2070...@embarqmail.com> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed >> >> Charlie, >> >> The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity with >> wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if >> the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the >> barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra >> security. >> >> 73, >> Don W3FPR >> >> >> >> 73, Ed - KL7UW >> http://www.kl7uw.com >> dubus...@gmail.com >> "Kits made by KL7UW" >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> >> > >__ >Elecraft mailing list >Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > >This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] XG3 Band Change
On 12/10/2013 8:27 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Well, I HAVE heard of people going "down" to 10 meters. And 160 meters didn't get the name "top band" for being down. But it's been a long, long time since anyone I heard spoke in meters. Been a ham since '52. Maybe it was my interest in the history of "wireless" that indoctrinated me. But I've learned to leave up and down out unless I'm specific about wavelength or frequency. On Tue, 10 Dec 2013 15:30:01 -0800 (PST), Neal Enault wrote: In over 50 yrs of ham radio, I've never heard ANYONE on a lower band say they are going down to 10 meters, or 6 meters. My sentence above points right at it. I said a LOWER band. Even the old timers said "I'm going down to 160 meters." Why fight tradition? In the early days of wireless, it was all wavelength ... "600 meters," which sort of made sense because your antenna often determined the "frequency" of your transmitter. Hams were finally relegated to "200 meters and down." When vacuum tubes came along, we all began thinking more in frequency than wavelength. The reason we Old Timers think in terms of frequency like everyone else is because, despite being old, we're not THAT old. Those "wavelength" OT's are all dead now. :-) 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires
Best is to size the terminal to the wire correctly, but your method works just fine if you only need a pair and the terminal is too big. I'm somewhat bewildered by all the APP problems being brought up. I have the Powerwerx crimper, I've probably put together over 50 pairs of APP's and I've never had a problem. Not one. I've never had them disengage by themselves, and I've never had the wire pull out. The crimper does an identical crimp every time. I do *not* solder the terminal for the same reason one doesn't want to put strain on soldered connections like on a dipole antenna. The heat will harden the copper making it more likely to break under strain. More of a problem with solid wire than stranded. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014 - www.cqp.org On 12/11/2013 9:41 AM, Edward R Cole wrote: I do not know if this will work with powerpole connectors. My problem was having too large diameter wire for the powerpole connectors which inhibited proper crimping; solution chose proper size connector for the wire size selected. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Power Poles
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:15:45 -0500, Bill W2BLC wrote: > I have all kinds of "proper" crimpers. They do a good job in many cases. > I have never been a fan of crimped RF connectors for VHF/UHF, however, > most commercial installers use them with great success. Remember, those > connections usually only need lives of a couple of years. In hamdom I > build things to last for many years, so I do not have to revisit > anything down the road. > > Hence, I crimp when I have the proper tool - then solder that same > connector. Only takes a few seconds and guarantees it will last as long > as I will. Do I like PowerX for DC connections in the shack? Not at all. > I much prefer crimped and soldered spade clips with screw terminal power > strips. May take a little longer to hook things up, but it is sure solid. > Won't come apart with a slight tug either. > > I also still measure power supply quality by weight. Amen! In some cases, I'm using coax with connectors that I installed in the 60s! You bet they are soldered, center AND shield. Power supply leads the same. Gary -- http://ag0n.net 3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055 NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Power Poles
I have all kinds of "proper" crimpers. They do a good job in many cases. I have never been a fan of crimped RF connectors for VHF/UHF, however, most commercial installers use them with great success. Remember, those connections usually only need lives of a couple of years. In hamdom I build things to last for many years, so I do not have to revisit anything down the road. Hence, I crimp when I have the proper tool - then solder that same connector. Only takes a few seconds and guarantees it will last as long as I will. Do I like PowerX for DC connections in the shack? Not at all. I much prefer crimped and soldered spade clips with screw terminal power strips. May take a little longer to hook things up, but it is sure solid. Won't come apart with a slight tug either. I also still measure power supply quality by weight. Bill W2BLC K-Line __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Internal Antenna Tuner and SPE Expert Amplifier Questions
I have been using and Expert 1K with my K3 for the last 4 years. A small and excellent setup for an apartment. My antenna is a compromise no resonant sloper on most of the HF bands, I have an automatic MFJ tuner ahead of the amplifier. Even barefoot I never need the antenna tuner on the K3. It is necessary to adjust the 1K for the default 50 ohms output as explained in the manual. 73 Reinaldo, YV5AM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Power Poles
Why? Simple. While you were doing all that, a guy with a proper crimper would have completed the job, and be sipping his coffee waiting for you to complete yours. If you had been in the field at the time, he might have finished his coffee, and decided to loan you his crimper. RC aircraft guys have this argument all the time between soldered Deans connectors and APPs. Strip, crimp, insert, done, anywhere, professionally. That's my reason. Eric On 12/11/2013 12:11 PM, Jim Brown wrote: I think cost new less than $50? Why would I want to spend $50 (plus shipping, of course) for a crimper when the soldering iron I already own works really well? Some of my techniques: 1) The biggest inserts are the most difficult to use, so I use them only for the #10 wire for which they are designed. I first carefully strip and tin the wire long enough so that the stripped conductor will just fit inside the shell once the pin is inserted. That's because the insulation of a larger cable often does not fit inside the shell. I find that liquid flux applied to the wire before tinning keeps the solder layer thin enough to fit in the insert. I then use the pliers to fold the "wings" over the wire so that, when soldered, it will fit in the shell. I also use a drop of flux when soldering. 2) The middle-size insert will handle #12 if carefully stripped and tinned, as above. Again, I use flux for the tinning, and also for soldering to the pin. 3) I use a lot of the smallest inserts for small diameter cables, like those from small accessories. I strip the conductors long enough that I can fold the stripped part over itself with the folded length just enough to fit in the pin. Again, a drop of flux helps the soldering process. 4) I use a nice bench vise to hold the cable to which I am soldering, orienting the cable upward so that the pin sits on it, and oriented so that the V+ cable is on the right with the lip facing away from me. Once the pins are installed, I mate a red and black shell, put the two shells in the vise, then carefully orient the pins and push them in one at a time until the lip latches to the blade in the shell. For smaller cable, I use a little green Xcelite screwdriver to push the pin over the blade. In general, these techniques work well for almost any connector I need to install, all the way up to PL259s and multipins of various sorts 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Diversity antenna experiences?
I just disconnect the L from the coax center conductor AND the beta match coil using a heavy duty open frame relay. Works for me. Make sure the relay contacts get closed before the tx RF arrives. I use K6XX's relay accelerator http://members.cruzio.com/~k6xx/radio/fastrely.pdf 73, Redd AI2N W0FK wrote: > Alan, how do you "float" your L? My L is relatively close to my receiving > antennas, and I'd like to try that out and see if it makes a difference. > > 73, > > Lou, W0FK > > > ai2n wrote > > Additionally, you may want to "float" or detune your inverted L during rx, > > especially if your rx antennas are close. My tx antenna was re-radiating > > quite a bit of noise; floating it cured the problem. > > > > > > - > St. Louis, MO > K3 #'s 7463 and 2513, P3 #620, KX1 #1517, KX3 #0036 > > -- > View this message in context: > http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Diversity-antenna-experiences-tp7581518p7581620.html > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Revisions & Updates to K1-4
Mike - NZ1MT wrote: > ...My power supply puts out a rock solid 13.8V, > K1 display indicated 13.4V key down. You likely already know that those two different voltages are due to the normal voltage drop across the reverse polarity protection diode RF-D16. I neglected to mention that http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_parts.htm has ordering info for KAT1 version 1.30 firmware along with a short description of the purpose of the last revision: FWKAT1 KAT1 F/W Upgrade to 1.3. Increases matching range for loads that caused Plo message. The blue-trimmer KFL1-4 board alignment is very stable over time. I re-align my K1 every three or four years...not because it needs it, but just because I like tinkering with it! However, if I wanted to have maximum power outputs on each band in the 6 to 7 watt range, I'd need to align more often for that last little bit. The final alignment of the KFL1-4 filter board trimmers must be performed for the transmit function, not for peak receive function. The trimmer adjustments are far more critical for transmit output performance than for receive, so spending much time to tweak the receive alignment is wasted by the final adjustment of the *same* trimmers for proper transmitter performance, which alters all adjustments that had been made earlier in receive mode. The technique in the KFL1-4 and K1 manuals works well...it is important to align with the Pout set for 2 watts. Your KFL1-4 appears to be well-aligned already...consider that any further tweeking that you make is principally for educational purposes. :-) 73, Mike / KK5F __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2: BFO range problem on early S/N K2
Allan, Not only is your range restricted, but likely the minimum and maximum frequencies are not as indicated in the manual. While your suspicions about the BFO crystals may be correct, there may be other problems with soldering, L33 or the capacitors used. For the easiest solution, order a set of BFO crystals and the BFOMODKT. Check the value of C173 - if it is other than 220 pF, get one of those capacitors too - a new C174 comes with the BFOMDKT. While you are at it, you might want to consider doing all the other A to B mods, change the IF filters and KSB2 crystals to the newer crystals and do all the other modifications indicated in the K2 A to B instructions, including updating the firmware. Your K2 will perform better for it. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/11/2013 2:47 PM, Allan Taylor wrote: Hi, We are working on an older K2 (S/N 152) to fix apply some simple mods and generally update things. After doing some straightforward mods (control board exclusively) we decided to touch up the filter/BFO alignment as the perceived bandpass seemed to be tuned a bit low. It went very easily until we were working on the CW filter settings in CW-REVERSE. There, anything we did refused to shift the bandpass appropriately. We then did a BFO test from the manual. The desired range is 3.5 kHz or higher, this rig came in at 2.83 kHz and is likely the source of our problem. Reading somewhat in the manual, a L33 is referred to. We haven't pursued that angle as yet. So... the big question for the K2 gang is this: what is the most likely cause of a too-narrow BFO tuning range? I personally suspect the BFO crystal(s), but what do I know. For reference, I did not build this particular unit although I did build a K2 of the same S/N series back in 2000. This K2 has not been used much at all but seems to work fine otherwise. This K2 got a ride on three major raft trips this past summer (in a Pelican case!) but I doubt that is the source of the problem. Any ideas? Things to check?? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Diversity antenna experiences?
Alan, how do you "float" your L? My L is relatively close to my receiving antennas, and I'd like to try that out and see if it makes a difference. 73, Lou, W0FK ai2n wrote > Additionally, you may want to "float" or detune your inverted L during rx, > especially if your rx antennas are close. My tx antenna was re-radiating > quite a bit of noise; floating it cured the problem. - St. Louis, MO K3 #'s 7463 and 2513, P3 #620, KX1 #1517, KX3 #0036 -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Diversity-antenna-experiences-tp7581518p7581620.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Soldering Power Poles
I think cost new less than $50? Why would I want to spend $50 (plus shipping, of course) for a crimper when the soldering iron I already own works really well? Some of my techniques: 1) The biggest inserts are the most difficult to use, so I use them only for the #10 wire for which they are designed. I first carefully strip and tin the wire long enough so that the stripped conductor will just fit inside the shell once the pin is inserted. That's because the insulation of a larger cable often does not fit inside the shell. I find that liquid flux applied to the wire before tinning keeps the solder layer thin enough to fit in the insert. I then use the pliers to fold the "wings" over the wire so that, when soldered, it will fit in the shell. I also use a drop of flux when soldering. 2) The middle-size insert will handle #12 if carefully stripped and tinned, as above. Again, I use flux for the tinning, and also for soldering to the pin. 3) I use a lot of the smallest inserts for small diameter cables, like those from small accessories. I strip the conductors long enough that I can fold the stripped part over itself with the folded length just enough to fit in the pin. Again, a drop of flux helps the soldering process. 4) I use a nice bench vise to hold the cable to which I am soldering, orienting the cable upward so that the pin sits on it, and oriented so that the V+ cable is on the right with the lip facing away from me. Once the pins are installed, I mate a red and black shell, put the two shells in the vise, then carefully orient the pins and push them in one at a time until the lip latches to the blade in the shell. For smaller cable, I use a little green Xcelite screwdriver to push the pin over the blade. In general, these techniques work well for almost any connector I need to install, all the way up to PL259s and multipins of various sorts 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2: BFO range problem on early S/N K2
Hi, We are working on an older K2 (S/N 152) to fix apply some simple mods and generally update things. After doing some straightforward mods (control board exclusively) we decided to touch up the filter/BFO alignment as the perceived bandpass seemed to be tuned a bit low. It went very easily until we were working on the CW filter settings in CW-REVERSE. There, anything we did refused to shift the bandpass appropriately. We then did a BFO test from the manual. The desired range is 3.5 kHz or higher, this rig came in at 2.83 kHz and is likely the source of our problem. Reading somewhat in the manual, a L33 is referred to. We haven't pursued that angle as yet. So... the big question for the K2 gang is this: what is the most likely cause of a too-narrow BFO tuning range? I personally suspect the BFO crystal(s), but what do I know. For reference, I did not build this particular unit although I did build a K2 of the same S/N series back in 2000. This K2 has not been used much at all but seems to work fine otherwise. This K2 got a ride on three major raft trips this past summer (in a Pelican case!) but I doubt that is the source of the problem. Any ideas? Things to check?? -- 73 AllanK7GT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Buying CM500 in NYC
Hi Stew, Even if you decide not to buy the CS500, B&H is a great place to visit. It is a tourist attraction in its own right. If you are a little interested in Photography B&H has the greatest collection of photographic equipment I have ever seen. Here is a movie (Ad) on B&H: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmN6pBEfSIQ There are other NYC area stores too, Adorama for example. I have no interest except a satisfied customer of both photo gear and headsets from Adorama and B&H. I have two CS500's and they are great at half the Illinois manufactures price (sorry to say). To my ears they are more comfortable too, to me that is their appeal. 73, Bill-AK5X On Dec 11, 2013, at 6:30 AM, David Cutter wrote: > Here's a good alternative I bought in UK as advised by Tom G3OLB, price might > have changed: > > " A good alternative I found for my K3, is the Koss SB/45, which is quite > comfortable during long periods of contest operation and has an excellent > quality electret mic. It's currently £20.98 free postage on Amazon." > > 73 > David G3UNA > > > > - Original Message - From: "GW0ETF" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 10:16 AM > Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Buying CM500 in NYC > > >> Hi, >> >> Seems impossible to buy the CM500 in the UK so I was hoping to pick up a set >> when I'm in New York next February...anyone suggest a good source? I have >> heard B&H photo/video store is good and looks nice and central. >> >> Also hoping to get a pair of Al stiffener plates for my (early) K3 >> synthesizer boards shipped over to the hotel from Aptos and avoid the >> astronomical shipping charges to the UK. >> >> 73, >> Stew, GW0ETF >> >> >> >> -- >> View this message in context: >> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Buying-CM500-in-NYC-tp7581590.html >> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > > --- > This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus > protection is active. > http://www.avast.com > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Bill Hammond wham...@aol.com Bill Hammond-AK5X a...@mac.com a...@sbcglobal.net K3 #69 P3 #817 KPA500 # 149 K2/100 #4637 K1 #2033 KX1 #1023 KX3 #583 W2 T1 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Buying CM500 in NYC
On 12/11/2013 9:42 AM, Jim Brown wrote about B&H Photo as a source of headphones for the K3: > They are a dependable source. I've bought various things from them for > many years, always internet or mail order. Ditto experience. BUT - if one is in NYC, a visit to their enormous store - just about a block or so from Penn Station - is a once-in-a-lifetime experience not to be forgotten. I had to do that about 7 years ago to get a Nikon lens in a hurry to replace one that was damaged during a trip. Just remember that they do close late Friday and re-open on Sunday morning and similarly on Jewish holidays. 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 >From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement
The problem comes with very small wire. I just acquired a YS-60 watt meter in a trade and it has wires that are too small for the 15A pins. My solution was solder. For high power connections, over 30A if I remember correctly, the National Electric Code frowns on solder because they are concerned that a bad joint will have high resistance, heat up, and melt the solder. I keep this item in mind when I do high power connections. Also, don't hesitate to use a magnifier to check that the connector is completely over the spring. I had a APP connector that exhibited the "doesn't stay connected" and "high resistance" behaviors. I wasn't until I used a magnifier that I could see it wasn't assembled correctly. A strong push with a small screwdriver fixed it. As a note for RigRunner users, DXEngineering has low value ATC fuses in 1A, 2A, and 3A. Mine are on a slow freight coming to California. Cheers - Bill, AE6JV On 12/11/13 at 9:52 AM, j...@jtmiller.com (Jim Miller) wrote: I prefer to have an assortment of pins: 15a, 30a, 45a. They're cheap so why take shortcuts? - Bill Frantz| Airline peanut bag: "Produced | Periwinkle (408)356-8506 | in a facility that processes | 16345 Englewood Ave www.pwpconsult.com | peanuts and other nuts." - Duh | Los Gatos, CA 95032 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Revisions & Updates to K1-4
Thanks for the fast reply Mike! I forget to mention My power supply puts out a rock solid 13.8V, K1 display indicated 13.4V key down. Will look into the other items thanks. Mike - NZ1MT On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:55 PM, Mike Morrow wrote: Mike - NZ1MT wrote: > Based on the K1 RF main board, KFL1-4, and KAT1 versions listed below > I was wondering what other eprom revision updates and changes are > available that I should implementing. > >K1 RF 2000 Rev D - MCU 1.09e That's the latest version, AFAIK. It's been unchanged since 2001. >KFL1-4 Rev B 1.00 (blue trimmers) That's the latest version, AFAIK. It's been unchanged since 2001. > KAT1 Rev C 1.20 There is at least one later version, rev. 1.30. I upgraded from rev. 1.10 about ten years ago, and noticed very little difference. > The K1 power output is showing a solid 5W to a dummy load when > OUT is set at P7.0. Not sure if the output could be increased > or if the KAT1 power measurement should just be re-calibrated. Whether or not any particular K1 will generate power levels much above 5 watts depends: 1. DC supply voltage needs to be around 14 vdc. 2. All the filter board circuits must be peaked optimally. 3. The KAT1 power detection must be properly adjusted. Items 1 and 2 above are your first areas to check, since those affect significantly the actual (as opposed to indiated) power output. Worry about the power indication accuracy afterwards. Mike / KK5F __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires
I don't usually do that because the wire exiting the APP barrel is still just a small strand that flexes easily and can eventually break. It gives you a lot more surface area for crimping, but needs strain relief to be secure in the long run. What I do is strip the wire the same length as normal, then fold it back over the insulation. I insert the wire and insulation into the barrel with the wire down (away from the split in the barrel), then crimp normally. This makes a solid electrical connection with the stiffness of the wire insulation which also provides more than adequate strain relief. I've mentioned it here before and some are aghast, but I have maybe a dozen connections like that currently in my shack and not one of them has ever failed in the 10 years I've been doing it with APPs. But any connection where this is necessary is a low voltage, low current DC connection so what's it going to hurt? It isn't any worse electrically than using a small wire nut which is considered safe enough even for house wiring. Eric KE6US On 12/11/2013 9:41 AM, Edward R Cole wrote: A little off topic: I wonder if any of you do what I do when using wires are too small for crimp connectors? I strip twice as much insulation from the end of the wire and then fold the bare wire over double. May have to squeeze using small nose pliers to get it doubled tight enough to fit inside the crimp connector. The crimps hold the undersized wire very well with this procedure. BTW this works for solid conductor wire, like hookup wire. Bend the conductor double and there is something for the crimp to hold. I do not know if this will work with powerpole connectors. My problem was having too large diameter wire for the powerpole connectors which inhibited proper crimping; solution chose proper size connector for the wire size selected. 73, Ed - KL7UW - Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 09:00:11 -0500 From: Don Wilhelm To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" , elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement Message-ID: <52a86feb.2070...@embarqmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Charlie, The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity with wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra security. 73, Don W3FPR 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com dubus...@gmail.com "Kits made by KL7UW" __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Revisions & Updates to K1-4
Mike, You have already received information on the level of that K1, and I would not see any need to upgrade the KAT1 firmware. The maximum power output on 20 meters may be limited due to several reasons, but the 5 watts does meet specifications. If the actual power output matches the OUT menu parameter when set to 5 watts or below, the power control is working. It is possible that the 22 MHz crystal on the 4 band board is a bit weak, or you may be able to obtain greater output by aligning the bandpass filters on the 2 band board. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/11/2013 12:34 PM, Mike - NZ1MT wrote: Hi all, I'm the proud owner of a K1-4 #1066 that appears to be working very well. Based on the K1 RF main board, KFL1-4, and KAT1 versions listed below I was wondering what other eprom revision updates and changes are available that I should implementing. K1 RF 2000 Rev D - MCU 1.09e KFL1-4 Rev B 1.00 (blue trimmers) KAT1 Rev C 1.20 The K1 power output is showing a solid 5W to a dummy load when OUT is set at P7.0. Not sure if the output could be increased or if the KAT1 power measurement should just be re-calibrated. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] 'Ruggedizing' K2?
Craig, I built a K2 that was used for many years in the cab of an 18 wheeler. No special treatment of the toroids was applied and it worked FB over those years. I (and Elecraft) recommend that no fixatives be applied. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/11/2013 12:53 PM, Craig Wadsworth wrote: I'm taking my K2 on the road and am worried about things being shaken up a bit by engine vibration, etc. What do y'all think about a few blobs of hot melt glue to hold coils and connectors in place? I can always soften the glue with a heat gun and peel it off later as needed. Other than a padded hard case and maybe big caps over front and back panels, what has already been tried? 73 de w9ctw Craig Wadsworth __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Revisions & Updates to K1-4
Mike - NZ1MT wrote: > Based on the K1 RF main board, KFL1-4, and KAT1 versions listed below > I was wondering what other eprom revision updates and changes are > available that I should implementing. > >K1 RF 2000 Rev D - MCU 1.09e That's the latest version, AFAIK. It's been unchanged since 2001. >KFL1-4 Rev B 1.00 (blue trimmers) That's the latest version, AFAIK. It's been unchanged since 2001. > KAT1 Rev C 1.20 There is at least one later version, rev. 1.30. I upgraded from rev. 1.10 about ten years ago, and noticed very little difference. > The K1 power output is showing a solid 5W to a dummy load when > OUT is set at P7.0. Not sure if the output could be increased > or if the KAT1 power measurement should just be re-calibrated. Whether or not any particular K1 will generate power levels much above 5 watts depends: 1. DC supply voltage needs to be around 14 vdc. 2. All the filter board circuits must be peaked optimally. 3. The KAT1 power detection must be properly adjusted. Items 1 and 2 above are your first areas to check, since those affect significantly the actual (as opposed to indiated) power output. Worry about the power indication accuracy afterwards. Mike / KK5F __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Buying CM500 in NYC
Yes, they're a good source. If you intend to visit them in person, note their store days/hours of operation. /Rick On Wed, Dec 11, 2013 at 9:42 AM, Jim Brown wrote: > On 12/11/2013 9:25 AM, KC4LRR wrote: > >> I got mine from B & H >> > > They are a dependable source. I've bought various things from them for > many years, always internet or mail order. > > 73, Jim K9YC > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- Rick Tavan N6XI Truckee, CA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires
Yes, the "doubling over" method has worked very well for me (solderless) with stranded wire and manual crimping. Holds very tightly. -Paul, N1HEL - Original Message - From: "Edward R Cole" To: Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 9:41 AM Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] 'Ruggedizing' K2?
I'm taking my K2 on the road and am worried about things being shaken up a bit by engine vibration, etc. What do y'all think about a few blobs of hot melt glue to hold coils and connectors in place? I can always soften the glue with a heat gun and peel it off later as needed. Other than a padded hard case and maybe big caps over front and back panels, what has already been tried? 73 de w9ctw Craig Wadsworth __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement
I prefer to have an assortment of pins: 15a, 30a, 45a. They're cheap so why take shortcuts? jim ab3cv fill connector barrel with wire before crimping smaller than #12. > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Buying CM500 in NYC
And so is Sam Ash Music. $49.95 last time I bought and they shipped to VK...:-) On 12/12/2013 3:43 AM, "Jim Brown" wrote: > On 12/11/2013 9:25 AM, KC4LRR wrote: > >> I got mine from B & H >> > > They are a dependable source. I've bought various things from them for > many years, always internet or mail order. > > 73, Jim K9YC > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Lm
Sent from my iPhone __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Buying CM500 in NYC
On 12/11/2013 9:25 AM, KC4LRR wrote: I got mine from B & H They are a dependable source. I've bought various things from them for many years, always internet or mail order. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] OT: Crimping small wires
A little off topic: I wonder if any of you do what I do when using wires are too small for crimp connectors? I strip twice as much insulation from the end of the wire and then fold the bare wire over double. May have to squeeze using small nose pliers to get it doubled tight enough to fit inside the crimp connector. The crimps hold the undersized wire very well with this procedure. BTW this works for solid conductor wire, like hookup wire. Bend the conductor double and there is something for the crimp to hold. I do not know if this will work with powerpole connectors. My problem was having too large diameter wire for the powerpole connectors which inhibited proper crimping; solution chose proper size connector for the wire size selected. 73, Ed - KL7UW - Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 09:00:11 -0500 From: Don Wilhelm To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" , elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement Message-ID: <52a86feb.2070...@embarqmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Charlie, The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity with wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra security. 73, Don W3FPR 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com dubus...@gmail.com "Kits made by KL7UW" __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K1 Revisions & Updates to K1-4
Hi all, I'm the proud owner of a K1-4 #1066 that appears to be working very well. Based on the K1 RF main board, KFL1-4, and KAT1 versions listed below I was wondering what other eprom revision updates and changes are available that I should implementing. K1 RF 2000 Rev D - MCU 1.09e KFL1-4 Rev B 1.00 (blue trimmers) KAT1 Rev C 1.20 The K1 power output is showing a solid 5W to a dummy load when OUT is set at P7.0. Not sure if the output could be increased or if the KAT1 power measurement should just be re-calibrated. Thanks & Happy Holidays 73, Mike - NZ1MT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Buying CM500 in NYC
I got mine from B & H... RJ -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Buying-CM500-in-NYC-tp7581590p7581600.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement
I can vouch for the Tricrimp tool sold by West Mountain Radio. It appears the same as PowerWerx in photos. Does NOT add to diameter of barrel when crimped as soldering might. Good point made by Don below; fill connector barrel with wire before crimping smaller than #12. I think cost new less than $50? 73, Mike/ac5p From: Don Wilhelm To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 8:00 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement Charlie, The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity with wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra security. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/11/2013 7:33 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote: > OK, I see APP crimpers available from $10 to over $500. How much would you > expect to pay for a "really good" crimp tool? > > Not trying to be snarky, I just need an honest answer. Some people say > regular pliers will work, but I would think this isn't the best solution. > > Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy it?. Hint: > I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio is worth to use > these things. > > Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's? > > Feel free to reply off-list to hold down the bandwidth. (pincon at erols dot > com) > > 73, Charlie k3ICH > > > - Original Message - From: "Jim Brown" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 11:45 PM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement > > >> On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote: >>> I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with no >>> problems at all >> >> Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I use them >> not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that gets powered from >> low voltage DC. >> >>> - all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the APP >>> route, buy a really good crimp tool) >> >> All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the red, >> black, and green shells and all three sizes of inserts in quantity. I use >> the green ones for chassis bonding. >> >> 73, Jim K9YC >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net/ > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net/ Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement
Charlie, The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity with wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra security. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/11/2013 7:33 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote: OK, I see APP crimpers available from $10 to over $500. How much would you expect to pay for a "really good" crimp tool? Not trying to be snarky, I just need an honest answer. Some people say regular pliers will work, but I would think this isn't the best solution. Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy it?. Hint: I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio is worth to use these things. Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's? Feel free to reply off-list to hold down the bandwidth. (pincon at erols dot com) 73, Charlie k3ICH - Original Message - From: "Jim Brown" To: Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 11:45 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote: I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with no problems at all Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I use them not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that gets powered from low voltage DC. - all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the APP route, buy a really good crimp tool) All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the red, black, and green shells and all three sizes of inserts in quantity. I use the green ones for chassis bonding. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Diversity antenna experiences?
Jim AB3CV wrote > At this point my primary interest is 160m diversity implementations. Any > suggestions based on experience with an inverted L and beverage? Jim, the inverted L plus Beverage should be an excellent combination while using stereo diversity. That's exactly what I used in ARRL160. Conditions in ARRL160 (at my QTH) unusually favored the inv L as a receiving antenna because of very low noise levels. So this may have been a source of confusion for why the Beverage wasn't a bigger contributor to reception. The important trick is balancing the relative rx gain levels. You can do a pretty good job of this using band noise alone. Generally speaking, you should expect signals in the Beverage direction to be as strong or stronger in the Beverage vs inv L and vice versa in other directions. 73, Barry N1EU -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Diversity-antenna-experiences-tp7581518p7581596.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Wanted P3
Hi to all, wanted used P3. Please offers from Europe on my e-mail > bozida...@yahoo.de 73 Bozidar -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Wanted-P3-tp7581595.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement
Charlie, The crimpers sold by DX Engineering, Powerwerx, West Mountain Radio and others are in the $40 range and work very well. You can also get other dies for crimping pl-259's and other type connectors. Its a very versatile tool. An example http://www.powerwerx.com/crimping-tools/tricrimp-crimping-powerpole-contacts.html Rich - N5ZC On 12/11/2013 6:33 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote: OK, I see APP crimpers available from $10 to over $500. How much would you expect to pay for a "really good" crimp tool? Not trying to be snarky, I just need an honest answer. Some people say regular pliers will work, but I would think this isn't the best solution. Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy it?. Hint: I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio is worth to use these things. Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's? Feel free to reply off-list to hold down the bandwidth. (pincon at erols dot com) 73, Charlie k3ICH - Original Message - From: "Jim Brown" To: Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 11:45 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote: I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with no problems at all Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I use them not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that gets powered from low voltage DC. - all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the APP route, buy a really good crimp tool) All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the red, black, and green shells and all three sizes of inserts in quantity. I use the green ones for chassis bonding. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement
Charlie, No need to spend a lot. These are as close to bulletproof connections as you get and you can get compatible jaws or a ton of connectors. Comes with jaws for 15/30/45 amp APPs. http://www.powerwerx.com/crimping-tools/tricrimp-crimping-powerpole-contact s.html Larry N9JY -- > >Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy it?. >Hint: I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio is worth >to >use these things. > >Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement
OK, I see APP crimpers available from $10 to over $500. How much would you expect to pay for a "really good" crimp tool? Not trying to be snarky, I just need an honest answer. Some people say regular pliers will work, but I would think this isn't the best solution. Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy it?. Hint: I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio is worth to use these things. Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's? Feel free to reply off-list to hold down the bandwidth. (pincon at erols dot com) 73, Charlie k3ICH - Original Message - From: "Jim Brown" To: Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 11:45 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote: I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with no problems at all Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I use them not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that gets powered from low voltage DC. - all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the APP route, buy a really good crimp tool) All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the red, black, and green shells and all three sizes of inserts in quantity. I use the green ones for chassis bonding. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Buying CM500 in NYC
Here's a good alternative I bought in UK as advised by Tom G3OLB, price might have changed: " A good alternative I found for my K3, is the Koss SB/45, which is quite comfortable during long periods of contest operation and has an excellent quality electret mic. It's currently £20.98 free postage on Amazon." 73 David G3UNA - Original Message - From: "GW0ETF" To: Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 10:16 AM Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Buying CM500 in NYC Hi, Seems impossible to buy the CM500 in the UK so I was hoping to pick up a set when I'm in New York next February...anyone suggest a good source? I have heard B&H photo/video store is good and looks nice and central. Also hoping to get a pair of Al stiffener plates for my (early) K3 synthesizer boards shipped over to the hotel from Aptos and avoid the astronomical shipping charges to the UK. 73, Stew, GW0ETF -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Buying-CM500-in-NYC-tp7581590.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K3] Buying CM500 in NYC
Hi, Seems impossible to buy the CM500 in the UK so I was hoping to pick up a set when I'm in New York next February...anyone suggest a good source? I have heard B&H photo/video store is good and looks nice and central. Also hoping to get a pair of Al stiffener plates for my (early) K3 synthesizer boards shipped over to the hotel from Aptos and avoid the astronomical shipping charges to the UK. 73, Stew, GW0ETF -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Buying-CM500-in-NYC-tp7581590.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] PR6-10 Receiver Pre Amplifier
Hi All Thanks to Stephen, Mike & Don for your replies. I already had the KXV3A option fitted & have now ordered the PR6-10 Preamp & another DB15 Y cable so I'll be ready to go! 73 de Ray G3XLG - Ray G3XLG -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/PR6-10-Receiver-Pre-Amplifier-tp7581571p7581589.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
