[Elecraft] Ref: A WOW moment.

[W0WFH Bill]

Hi all,  


WOW moments don't come along to often these days in
operating.  


Now that I have a New K3 with a P3/svga  I am having more
fun operating that I have had in years.  


I guess the biggest WOW moment in the  past few months was while calling the 
Maritime Mobile Service Net a few weeks ago.  I was looking for general check 
ins to the net when I had this KH6 answer me.  It turned out to be a station 
from the Big Island calling to check in from off the side of my beam.  It is 
times like this when the K3 really shines.  With it super Receiving ability.  
Not many other stations on the net heard the KH6 station and he was almost 20 
over S9 here in central Missouri.

We all have moment during our day to day operating that you will
remember for years.  An those are the time that make being a
Ham Radio Operator such a wonderful thing.  


Enjoy one and all.  Have a Happy New Year.
Bill, W0WFH
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[Elecraft] Toggle PF1 in KX3

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Hi from Ken W0CZ

I want to toggle between BW 2800 and BW 50 on my KX3. I wrote the following 
macro lines and they work from the command line of the utility but do not 
toggle when using the PF1 of the KX3.

1   BW0280;SWH12;MN110;SWT19;SWH18;SWH09;
2   BW0005;SWT12;MN110;SWT27;SWH18;SWH09;
I tried replacing  the SWH09; with MN255; but that did not work either. 

I have been using PF1 for line 1 and PF2 for line 2 but now my KXPA100 is on 
the way and I want to use PF2 as a quick way to toggle between 5 watts and 100 
watts. I suspect I will have the same problem when I try that macro.

73 and thanks for any help you can give.

Ken W0CZ
w...@i29.net

Sent from my iPad=
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Re: [Elecraft] Noise Cancelling Headphones

[N2TK, Tony]

Thanks for all the feedback. I need to try out a pair of noise canceling
over the ear headset on both CW and SSB to see if it helps.
73,
N2TK, Tony

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2013 2:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Noise Cancelling Headphones

On 12/26/2013 10:39 AM, Mark Petiford wrote:
> Re:  "Is there such a thing as a noise cancelling black box you can plug
in aheadset such as the CM-500 and get good noise canceling? No knobs. Just
anON-OFF switch like the headsets have."
>
> Well, sort of, Tony.  In the aviation world,  conversions kits have 
> been marketed for popular (in aviation circles) headsets to convert 
> them to noise canceling.  They weren't "black box" plug-in devices, 
> but rather a kit of microphones and electronics mounted in each 
> earpiece and required some disassembly of the existing earpieces.  I 
> believe they were made for David Clark and Flightcom headsets, and 
> maybe a few others.  The result was a significant improvement over the 
> original passive headset

Right.  Successful noise cancelling requires that the resulting acoustic
output AS COUPLED TO THE EAR CANAL precisely match the acoustic noise that
GETS THROUGH THE HEADPHONES TO THE EAR CANAL (caps added for
emphasis) in both magnitude and phase, and that the two acoustic signals are
out of polarity. That means that the mic picking up the noise be very close
to the headphones, the distance between the mic, the transducer, and the ear
must be compensated, and the relative response, both magnitude and phase,
must be precisely compensated.  That's a VERY difficult design problem, and
a really good solution is only practical when everything is built as an
integrated package, with dedicated mic, headphone transducers, and
electronics.

73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Ever had a WOW moment?

[PKA]

Despite whatever DX I have ever heard or worked, my WOW moment was when I for 
the first time heard clear, distinct echoes with a delay of 240 milliseconds 
(corresponding to almost two times round the world) on 80 meter with just 100W 
and a wire loop antenna. It turned out that the 80m signal escaped through a 
hole in the ionosphere, followed a duct along the magnetic field lines out into 
space and back to the southern hemisphere where it bounced back through the 
same duct and finally reached my loop antenna.

I have observed these ducts several times since - latest on Dec 20 this year. 
Chances are fair to hear echoes on 80m some time in the coming month around 4-6 
hours after sunset. K3 with semi QSK at 40 msec delay is perfect for this.
If you want a copy of a sound recording of these echoes drop me an e-mail 
off-line.

73 de OZ4UN
Poul-Erik

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] 
På vegne af Mel Farrer
Sendt: 27. december 2013 00:24
Til: Joe W2KJ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Emne: Re: [Elecraft] Ever had a WOW moment?

Yes, I remember WOW back in the 1958 season. I was running a Heathkit Lunchbox 
on 6 meters and worked everything I could hear.   NOW in this century I am 
doing the same with my KX3.  What a kick in the A##.  Happy New Year everyone.  

Mel, K6KBE





On Thursday, December 26, 2013 2:32 PM, Joe W2KJ  wrote:
 
Howdy Gang:

As the subject says, have you ever had a WOW moment using QRP on the bands??

I just did as I answered a very weak response to my CQ on 21.060 at 1613Z.

G3YPZ called and I couldn't really couldn't copy much until I got him zero beat 
and turned on the APF in my KX3.

Finally got his call and then copied just about 100% of his transmissions from 
then on.

Turns out that John was running a K3  at 100mw!!  Of course the fact that he 
had a 2 element quad certainly helped but I can't recall ever working a DX 
station when he was running so little power.

Solar Flux today is only at 123 so condx not great but 15m can be magical at 
times.

This QRP stuff is amazing...we can be thankful to Wayne and Eric for such 
superb equipment that allow us to work farther with less these days.

I harken back to my beginning days as a Novice with a homebrew 6V6 and S77 
Hallicrafters receiver...amazing that I made any QSOs back then in 1962!!

            73, Joe W2KJ
            I QRP, therefore I am
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Re: [Elecraft] Yamaha CM500 replacement pads

[d...@lightstream.net]

You may want to check into these velour earpads for Beyerdynamic
DT880/DT990 headphones. I have both, and they are extremely comfortable
headphones. I also have a pair of the CM500's, and checked the fit of
these pads on the CM500. From a diameter standpoint they're fine, but the
CM500's have a weird edge that varies from about 1/8" to almost 3/8" which
prevents the earpad from stretching over that 3/8" depth. That said, some
double-sided tape placed between the earpad and the CM500 would hold the
Beyerdynamic pads nicely in place.

73, Dale
WA8SRA



> Today I called Yamaha parts dept. to order pads for my CM500. I was told
> they don't supply any parts for that headset, but if the pads break down
> within warranty they will just replace the entire headset. My son in law
> does part time work for Yamaha, and verified that they work this way
> with almost everything.
>
> I checked other routes, but came up empty.Headphones.com had nothing
> close. The closest I could find were at Scan Sound.com:
>
> http://www.scansound.com/index.php/headset-cushions/leatherette-headset-cushions/teardrop-shaped-leatherette-cushions-for-wireless-headphones.html
>
> They are 80mm wide, so would probably rip while trying to stretch them
> over the 95mm diam. Yamaha.If anyone is successful with these or other
> similar type pads, please post it. It seems our choices are live with
> what we have, use disposable covers, or purchase a new CM500.
>
> It would be nice to know how those covers affect comfort and audio,
> since the ear normally is inside the outer pad, next to the transducer.
>
> 73, Jim
>
> W6YA
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Yamaha CM500 replacement pads

[d...@lightstream.net]

Sorry -- I forgot to send the link for the replacement Beyerdynamic pads:

<
http://www.headphone.com/accessories/headphone-parts/beyerdynamic-dt880-dt990-velour-earpads.php
>

73, Dale
WA8SRA


> Today I called Yamaha parts dept. to order pads for my CM500. I was told
> they don't supply any parts for that headset, but if the pads break down
> within warranty they will just replace the entire headset. My son in law
> does part time work for Yamaha, and verified that they work this way
> with almost everything.
>
> I checked other routes, but came up empty.Headphones.com had nothing
> close. The closest I could find were at Scan Sound.com:
>
> http://www.scansound.com/index.php/headset-cushions/leatherette-headset-cushions/teardrop-shaped-leatherette-cushions-for-wireless-headphones.html
>
> They are 80mm wide, so would probably rip while trying to stretch them
> over the 95mm diam. Yamaha.If anyone is successful with these or other
> similar type pads, please post it. It seems our choices are live with
> what we have, use disposable covers, or purchase a new CM500.
>
> It would be nice to know how those covers affect comfort and audio,
> since the ear normally is inside the outer pad, next to the transducer.
>
> 73, Jim
>
> W6YA
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Noise Cancelling Headphones

[Mark]

Besides comfort which is highly personal, I found two other performance issues
with noise canceling headsets.  First, the cheaper ones hiss.  This is hard to 
tell
with demos at stores since they insist on making you listen with music on. The
hiss drives me nuts on the quieter bands. Second, I found that to my ears some 
headphones make rtty diddles and cw sound wrong. I assume this is a weakness 
in the noise cancelation which doesn't like non music or non voice material.

It annoyed me that bose was so premium priced and I went through several cheaper
ones before finally getting a refurb qc15 at a bose outlet store.  The headsets 
were

Bose qc15 ,  best noise canceling, no hiss, comfortable
Altec Lansing   hissy, but usable
iGo, not hissy, usable, not so comfortable, small ear cups 
No name from CVS,  distorts tones, uncomfortable 
Sony MDR-NC22, in ear, noise canceling  not too bad, I can't wear them for too 
long
Logitech (no longer made model). Real nice, but broke after a few contests 
logitech
Refunded entire purchase price. 

Yamaha cm500. No noise canceling, fairly comfortable, mic bracket is loose after
Several years
Heil proset. No noise canceling,  not as comfortable as cm500 but better made
Heil bm10,  no noise canceling, on ear.  Just for something different
Heil proset plus,  just don't like how it fits me. 

It is handy to have several choices and types of earphones, as changing from say
headset to earbuds to on ear headphones helps you survive long contests as
each rests, and ends up hurting, a different part of your ears/head.

Mark. N2QT

> On Dec 26, 2013, at 7:59 PM, "Gary Smith"  wrote:
> 
> Worth the money is personal taste perhaps. I tried several noise 
> cancelling headsets from the common passive variety with excellent 
> sound-proofing to several with the electronic noise removal. Without 
> a doubt the most comfortable and most effective headsets I compared 
> were the Bose QC-2. That headphone had issues and was out of 
> warranty. However, Bose will replace a failed headset out of warranty 
> with the same or the next generation of headset for $100. I spotted 
> for the new generation and these are lighter and at least as 
> effective as the older Bose QC2. It's still worth my time to check 
> out new ones in the off-chance something will beat the QC-15 but to 
> date audio quality and ambient sound removal-wise, this is it.
> 
> Gary
> KA1J
> 
>> On Thu, Dec 26, 2013 at 10:21 AM, Phil Kane 
>> wrote:
>>> On 12/26/2013 8:17 AM, iain macdonnell - N6ML wrote:
 These have caught my eye at my local Costco recently:
>> http://www.costco.com/Sony-MDR-10RDC-Premium-Noise-Canceling-Headpho
>> nes.product.100083695.html
 
 but I keep reminding myself that I have too many headsets already
>> :)
>>> 
>>> Is it worth 180 bucks?
>> 
>> Maybe, if you operate in a noisy environment. The Bose QC15 that
>> others are raving about sells for ~$270 !
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>>~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] Noise Cancelling Headphones

[Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft]

And now its time to close this thread in the interest of containing list 
volume.  :-)

73.
Eric
list moderator
elecraft.com
_..._

> On Dec 27, 2013, at 5:16 AM, "N2TK, Tony"  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for all the feedback. I need to try out a pair of noise canceling
> over the ear headset on both CW and SSB to see if it helps.
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[Elecraft] 144XV construction experience?

[Allan Taylor]

I am about to begin the build of a 144XV transverter. Before I venture
forth,
though, I would like to request the advice of those here who have built this
2m transverter. Any specific warnings that apply to it?   I have just
completed
the install of the K60XV mod / kit so that work on the K2 is already done.

-- 
73 AllanK7GT
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[Elecraft] Noise cancelling phones

[Andrew Catanzaro]

Gary,

In preparation for CQ WW CW at PJ2T, our leader, N0YY, suggested we all 
bring noise cancelling headsets. I bought Audio Technica ATH-ANC9 
QuietPoint Noise-Cancelling Headphones because music listening is my 
first hobby and they sound better than any Bose headphones. But I used 
both in Curacao and of course, I use the Audio Technica at home. Both 
work fine in ham applications. I was amazed at two things. One is how 
much easier it was to work the contest at PJ2T. (Of course we had six 
K3's!) The other was how much easier it is to copy at home. I was 
unaware how much "fighting" my ears and brain do with background noise 
in both places. I didn't notice it till the background noise was 
eliminated. My shack is quiet except for my own equipment noise, but I 
didn't realize how bothersome it was. There was benefit at PJ2T because 
we had five Ameritron AL-1200's running, as well as a 25,000 BTU air 
conditioner in the same room. In the reflector discussion, I don't see 
anyone discussing these points, but for long term listening, there's 
less neurological work with noise reducers. Even with all radios, 
appliances, aquariums, and HVAC equipment off at night in my suburban 
house basement, it's amazing how much more quiet our poured-concrete 
room is with noise cancelers on.


Even Field Day in the middle of the night is a better experience by 
getting rid of the distant traffic noise.  The ears and temporal lobes 
are no longer required to waste as much processor time discriminating CW 
or speech.  We want excellent audio and an excellent S/N ratio out of 
our radios.  Why mess it all up at the headphone-to-ear interface when 
it's so easy to minimize the problem?


Insofar as the discussion about Etymotic in the ear monitors goes, I 
agree with Jim K9YC. They are without equal at noise cancellation. I 
quit blasting my ears with ham audio about five decades ago, so 
in-the-ear transducers are never a problem. I also used another 
manufacturer's in-the-ear monitors with molded ear pieces. The problem 
with them in a ham shack is they are so good, it's too quiet. The house 
could be coming down and I wouldn't know it!


But for those who want to get their ears wet with noise reducing 
headsets, I've found that all the least expensive pairs I've picked up 
over the years offer an advantage over standard phones.


73 - Andy W9NJY


Message: 32 Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2013 20:29:50 -0600

From: Gary K9GS  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Noise Cancelling Headphones

I know that here in Wisconsin, Bose has an outlet store in a nearby 
mall. I assume you could try on a pair although I have not done so.


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Re: [Elecraft] Toggle PF1 in KX3

[Jim Kutsch, KY2D]

Ken,
You have the SWT19 and SWT27 in the wrong macros, causing the reassignment
to fail. Macro 1 assigns macro 1 to PF1 and macro 2 assigns macro 2 to PF1
rather than alternating so you get the desired toggling. Also, I always end
with the mn255. Try these:

1   BW0280;SWH12;MN110;SWT27;SWH18;MN255;
2   BW0005;SWT12;MN110;SWT19;SWH18;MN255;


73, Jim

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Kenneth A.
Christiansen
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2013 5:19 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Toggle PF1 in KX3

Hi from Ken W0CZ

I want to toggle between BW 2800 and BW 50 on my KX3. I wrote the following
macro lines and they work from the command line of the utility but do not
toggle when using the PF1 of the KX3.

1   BW0280;SWH12;MN110;SWT19;SWH18;SWH09;
2   BW0005;SWT12;MN110;SWT27;SWH18;SWH09;
I tried replacing  the SWH09; with MN255; but that did not work either. 

I have been using PF1 for line 1 and PF2 for line 2 but now my KXPA100 is on
the way and I want to use PF2 as a quick way to toggle between 5 watts and
100 watts. I suspect I will have the same problem when I try that macro.

73 and thanks for any help you can give.

Ken W0CZ
w...@i29.net

Sent from my iPad=
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Micrometer II help

[tomb18]

Hi,

Still no luck at all. The two jumpers are set as follows:
The jumper near the pots is set to EL (both posts covered).
The Jumper set at the left of the board is set to IC as per the manual


The RJ45 is plugged in the back. The Heil proset headphones are plugged in the 
front headphone jack on the K3, the mic is plugged via the foster to the RJ45 
cable in rear.


The audio that I hear through the headset is fine. If I try VOX, nothing 
happens(it is set) . If I press XMIT on the transmitter , the transmitter goes 
into transmit and I try to talk no audio output from the MIC and no RF going 
out. 
While the microham is sitting there, the lights on it are 
Line is red.


\When I press a string to be transmitted in DM780, the PTT2 comes on and the SC 
light comes on.


But I do not hear a signal.


The elecraft K3 "Mic" is set RPl.


Clicking on the sound card in Microham
I select Headset Earphone(microham Coded) for Wave Out
Line (Microham CODEC
Mixer Line. (Microham Codex


If I press Test in this window K3 goes into transmit, 
Line stays red
PTT2 comes on
SC comes on and Front panel says playing. I hear nothing though just silence.


If I adjust everything associated with the microham to max in the mixers, I 
never hear anything on any of the test modes.


I'm at a loss here.


Is it sure that the microham cables LINE IN plus into LINE IN on the K3?


If I plug the mic in the from panel of the microham there is no difference.


Slow going here.
Thanks for any hjelp






Same thing if I try DM780, sending a 


On 12/26/13, "Joe Subich, W4TV"   wrote:
> 
> >Pi am using a Heil preset as received from Elecraft. I have the k3
> >front mic cable. I have the wire marked line in on the cable to the
> >line in on the radio. Same for line out. I have set jumpers to non
> >electret. Can someone tell me what I am doing wrong.?
> 
> Elecraft ProSet has an ELECTRET mic you need to set the jumpers in
> MKII for electret in order to supply the necessary power to the mic
> element and then perform the audio level set-up as documented in the
> MKII Users Manual.
> 
> 
> 73,
> 
>  ... Joe, W4TV
> 
> 
> On 12/26/2013 12:37 PM, Tom wrote:
> >Hi, I just hooked up my Microkeyer 2 installed all software and the
> >software is communicating with the radio. However if I talk into my
> >Mike there is no transmit occurring via Vox or PTT on the radio. Pi
> >am using a Heil preset as received from Elecraft. I have the k3 front
> >mic cable. I have the wire marked line in on the cable to the line in
> >on the radio. Same for line out. I have set jumpers to non electret.
> >Can someone tell me what I am doing wrong.? Thanks
> >
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] 144XV construction experience?

[Don Wilhelm]

Follow the instructions in the manual and you will be successful. Do the 
steps in order.
Do not mix up the shielded inductors is the only specific warning that I 
can offer.  I have built many of the XV transverters.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2013 9:55 AM, Allan Taylor wrote:

I am about to begin the build of a 144XV transverter. Before I venture
forth,
though, I would like to request the advice of those here who have built this
2m transverter. Any specific warnings that apply to it?   I have just
completed
the install of the K60XV mod / kit so that work on the K2 is already done.



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Re: [Elecraft] Toggle PF1 in KX3

[w...@i29.net]

Hi to Jim and the reflector

Once again you came through for me. I typed in the macros you sent and they 
work perfectly.

Thank you Thank you.

I am looking forward to the Stew Perry contest this week end

73

Ken W0CZ
w...@i29.net

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 27, 2013, at 9:54 AM, "Jim Kutsch, KY2D"  wrote:
> 
> Ken,
> You have the SWT19 and SWT27 in the wrong macros, causing the reassignment
> to fail. Macro 1 assigns macro 1 to PF1 and macro 2 assigns macro 2 to PF1
> rather than alternating so you get the desired toggling. Also, I always end
> with the mn255. Try these:
> 
> 1   BW0280;SWH12;MN110;SWT27;SWH18;MN255;
> 2   BW0005;SWT12;MN110;SWT19;SWH18;MN255;
> 
> 
> 73, Jim
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Kenneth A.
> Christiansen
> Sent: Friday, December 27, 2013 5:19 AM
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Toggle PF1 in KX3
> 
> Hi from Ken W0CZ
> 
> I want to toggle between BW 2800 and BW 50 on my KX3. I wrote the following
> macro lines and they work from the command line of the utility but do not
> toggle when using the PF1 of the KX3.
> 
> 1   BW0280;SWH12;MN110;SWT19;SWH18;SWH09;
> 2   BW0005;SWT12;MN110;SWT27;SWH18;SWH09;
> I tried replacing  the SWH09; with MN255; but that did not work either. 
> 
> I have been using PF1 for line 1 and PF2 for line 2 but now my KXPA100 is on
> the way and I want to use PF2 as a quick way to toggle between 5 watts and
> 100 watts. I suspect I will have the same problem when I try that macro.
> 
> 73 and thanks for any help you can give.
> 
> Ken W0CZ
> w...@i29.net
> 
> Sent from my iPad=
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Re: [Elecraft] Ever had a WOW moment?

[F5vjc]

Now that is a WOW moment !

73 de F5VJC


On 27 December 2013 14:38, Poul Erik Karlshøj (PKA)  wrote:

> Despite whatever DX I have ever heard or worked, my WOW moment was when I
> for the first time heard clear, distinct echoes with a delay of 240
> milliseconds (corresponding to almost two times round the world) on 80
> meter with just 100W and a wire loop antenna. It turned out that the 80m
> signal escaped through a hole in the ionosphere, followed a duct along the
> magnetic field lines out into space and back to the southern hemisphere
> where it bounced back through the same duct and finally reached my loop
> antenna.
>
> I have observed these ducts several times since - latest on Dec 20 this
> year. Chances are fair to hear echoes on 80m some time in the coming month
> around 4-6 hours after sunset. K3 with semi QSK at 40 msec delay is perfect
> for this.
> If you want a copy of a sound recording of these echoes drop me an e-mail
> off-line.
>
> 73 de OZ4UN
> Poul-Erik
>
> -Oprindelig meddelelse-
> Fra: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:
> elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] På vegne af Mel Farrer
> Sendt: 27. december 2013 00:24
> Til: Joe W2KJ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Emne: Re: [Elecraft] Ever had a WOW moment?
>
> Yes, I remember WOW back in the 1958 season. I was running a Heathkit
> Lunchbox on 6 meters and worked everything I could hear.   NOW in this
> century I am doing the same with my KX3.  What a kick in the A##.  Happy
> New Year everyone.
>
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, December 26, 2013 2:32 PM, Joe W2KJ 
> wrote:
>
> Howdy Gang:
>
> As the subject says, have you ever had a WOW moment using QRP on the
> bands??
>
> I just did as I answered a very weak response to my CQ on 21.060 at 1613Z.
>
> G3YPZ called and I couldn't really couldn't copy much until I got him zero
> beat and turned on the APF in my KX3.
>
> Finally got his call and then copied just about 100% of his transmissions
> from then on.
>
> Turns out that John was running a K3  at 100mw!!  Of course the fact that
> he had a 2 element quad certainly helped but I can't recall ever working a
> DX station when he was running so little power.
>
> Solar Flux today is only at 123 so condx not great but 15m can be magical
> at times.
>
> This QRP stuff is amazing...we can be thankful to Wayne and Eric for such
> superb equipment that allow us to work farther with less these days.
>
> I harken back to my beginning days as a Novice with a homebrew 6V6 and S77
> Hallicrafters receiver...amazing that I made any QSOs back then in 1962!!
>
> 73, Joe W2KJ
> I QRP, therefore I am
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Micrometer II help

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Follow the audio setup instructions in the microHAM Users Manual.
If you do not receive the expected results at a given step, find
out why right away as each step builds on the previous step.

When you are in voice modes the LINE LED on MK II should be OFF
(or blinking if recording to the DVK).  If it is red some program
(or Windows) has taken control of microHAM CODEC and selected the
LINE input.  Again, follow the set-up instructions in the User's
Manual.  It is impossible to guess what is set incorrectly but
something is most certainly set incorrectly as I use MK II and K3
every day with a headset connected to the EXT Mic (front of the
MK II).

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 12/27/2013 11:08 AM, tom...@videotron.ca wrote:

Hi,

Still no luck at all. The two jumpers are set as follows:
The jumper near the pots is set to EL (both posts covered).
The Jumper set at the left of the board is set to IC as per the manual


The RJ45 is plugged in the back. The Heil proset headphones are plugged in the 
front headphone jack on the K3, the mic is plugged via the foster to the RJ45 
cable in rear.


The audio that I hear through the headset is fine. If I try VOX, nothing 
happens(it is set) . If I press XMIT on the transmitter , the transmitter goes 
into transmit and I try to talk no audio output from the MIC and no RF going 
out.
While the microham is sitting there, the lights on it are
Line is red.


\When I press a string to be transmitted in DM780, the PTT2 comes on and the SC 
light comes on.


But I do not hear a signal.


The elecraft K3 "Mic" is set RPl.


Clicking on the sound card in Microham
I select Headset Earphone(microham Coded) for Wave Out
Line (Microham CODEC
Mixer Line. (Microham Codex


If I press Test in this window K3 goes into transmit,
Line stays red
PTT2 comes on
SC comes on and Front panel says playing. I hear nothing though just silence.


If I adjust everything associated with the microham to max in the mixers, I 
never hear anything on any of the test modes.


I'm at a loss here.


Is it sure that the microham cables LINE IN plus into LINE IN on the K3?


If I plug the mic in the from panel of the microham there is no difference.


Slow going here.
Thanks for any hjelp






Same thing if I try DM780, sending a


On 12/26/13, "Joe Subich, W4TV"   wrote:



Pi am using a Heil preset as received from Elecraft. I have the k3
front mic cable. I have the wire marked line in on the cable to the
line in on the radio. Same for line out. I have set jumpers to non
electret. Can someone tell me what I am doing wrong.?


Elecraft ProSet has an ELECTRET mic you need to set the jumpers in
MKII for electret in order to supply the necessary power to the mic
element and then perform the audio level set-up as documented in the
MKII Users Manual.


73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


On 12/26/2013 12:37 PM, Tom wrote:

Hi, I just hooked up my Microkeyer 2 installed all software and the
software is communicating with the radio. However if I talk into my
Mike there is no transmit occurring via Vox or PTT on the radio. Pi
am using a Heil preset as received from Elecraft. I have the k3 front
mic cable. I have the wire marked line in on the cable to the line in
on the radio. Same for line out. I have set jumpers to non electret.
Can someone tell me what I am doing wrong.? Thanks


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Re: [Elecraft] 144XV construction experience?

[Lloyd Korb]

Allan,

I am in the process of building the 222 version.  Just a word of warning
that I received in an email from Elecraft.  Now, the caution about
disconnecting the antenna when transmitting close to the 222 antenna is
going to be a real PITA when working the contests!  Removing during
lightning storms is a no brainer!

73,  Lloyd  K8DIO





*One tip:The RF module usually has a depression in the middle, so if you
trim the thermal pad with scissors so it just fits within that depression,
it makes for a better clamping and improved heat transfer. Do not exceed
20w of RF output, and disconnect the antenna when lighting storms approach
or if you will be transmitting close to the XV222 antenna with another rig.*

On Fri, Dec 27, 2013 at 11:11 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Follow the instructions in the manual and you will be successful. Do the
> steps in order.
> Do not mix up the shielded inductors is the only specific warning that I
> can offer.  I have built many of the XV transverters.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 12/27/2013 9:55 AM, Allan Taylor wrote:
>
>> I am about to begin the build of a 144XV transverter. Before I venture
>> forth,
>> though, I would like to request the advice of those here who have built
>> this
>> 2m transverter. Any specific warnings that apply to it?   I have just
>> completed
>> the install of the K60XV mod / kit so that work on the K2 is already done.
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Safely running 100% key-down modes (K1FFX)

[Bob]

Hi Bruce,

I haven't tried JT-65 but I've been running PSK-31 on my K2 with the KPA100
power set at 50% (i.e., 50 watts) or less without any problems. Although my
transmissions are not longer than several minutes each, I understand that at
the power level, you could have much longer transmissions without problems.

Take care,

Bob W1SRB

PS- hope to see you at NEFFA this year
--

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2013 09:06:23 -0800 (PST)
From: K1FFX mailto:bruce.ro...@rcn.com> >
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net  
Subject: [Elecraft] [K2] Safely running 100% key-down modes
Message-ID: <1388077583728-7582081.p...@n2.nabble.com
 >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I starting to use my K2/100 in two 100% key-down modes, JT-65 and PSK-31. 
What
should I be keeping in mind in protecting the output stage for the K2 and
for the KPA100?

For JT-65, since it is a QRP mode, I'm running at about 5 watts, and
transmissions are 
limited to about 45 seconds.  So, I'm hoping that K2's output transistors
will not be stressed
in this mode.

But, how about PSK-31?  I'd like to run about 20 watts and each transmission
could easily
be 3 or so minutes.  I don't know at what output power the base K2 runs when
the KPA100
kicks in (i.e., at above 10 watts).  I assume that normally the KPA100 will
be loafing at 20 
watts, but I'm not sure the impact of 100% key down on its output stage.

I'd appreciate any guidance in keeping the K2/100 "safe" in these modes.

Thanks -

Bruce K1FFX




-

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[Elecraft] HCT 2.2.1 Beta Release

[Shel Radin KF0UR]

Greetings,
 
Ham Central Terminal (HCT) version 2.2.1 is now ready and we're looking for
Beta testers of this new release.
 
Here's what's new:
 
*Feature: Transmit Buffer*
*What it does*: gives you the ability to backspace and correct typos when
using a keyboard to send PSK31, RTTY, or CW.
*How it works*: You can set the number of characters you type between 1-20
BEFORE the text is sent to the rig. That way, you can backspace and correct
typos before the text is transmitted.  The characters typed appear on the
bottom of the screen.  Once you hit the number of characters you set, or the
end of the line (20 characters), or press Return, the text is automatically
sent to the KX3 or K3.
 
*Feature: SOTA, GRID, IOTA, etc. support*
*What it does*: Allows you to store up to 48 references for any purpose
(SOTA, Grids, IOTA, Lighthouses, trip to Grandma's, etc.), maximum 16
characters each.  You can then select which one is active and that reference
will be stored with each QSO logged in the HCT log.   Then you can create an
ADIF export that includes only the QSOs for the active reference.
*How it works*: new screens have been created to enter and manage the 48
references.  You can also give a short nickname to each reference to help
you remember what it is. A new export feature is also available on the log
screen to export only QSOs for the active reference (R), instead of
exporting all QSOs (A).
  
*Feature: ADIF Creation Utility on the PC and Mac*
*What it does*: This is a PC (or Mac) utility program that allows you to
create an ADIF file on your PC or Mac, which can then be used to upload into
your main log, Logbook of the World, etc.  
*How it works*: Start the tool on your PC or Mac. Select the COM port to be
used.  The same cable you use to upgrade the KX3 or K3 is used here.  On the
HCT, go to the log screen and press A to export all of the QSOs or R to
export only those QSOs for the active reference. In the PC/Mac Utility, give
the file a name and it'll be saved in the ADIF format.
 
If you're interested in testing this new version and the ADIF Utility,
please contact me offline at kf...@radins.us.   I'll send a zip file with
the programs and new manuals. 
 
If you're not familiar with the HCT, it can be found at www.QRPworks.com,
where you can download the full manual and see all of it's features for the
KX3 and K3.

Tnx & 72/73,
 
Shel  KF0UR 
www.QRPworks.com





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View this message in context: 
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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Fwd: Getting CW to work with N1MM Logger

[Brian F. Wruble]

This worked!  Thanks, Dennis.

I forward this to the list, in case others need it.

73 es HNY de Brian W3BW


*Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.

*70 is the new 40.*
*
Mail: 1107 Key Plaza, PMB 447 Key West, FL 33040-4077
Summers: P.O.Box 57, 7400 Augustine Herman Highway, Georgetown, MD 21930
eFax  305.768.0278







-- Forwarded message --
From: Dennis 
Date: Tue, Dec 24, 2013 at 1:37 PM
Subject: Getting CW to work with N1MM Logger
To: bwru...@gmail.com


 Brian

I wrote this for the Remote Rig reflector in Sept 2012:

A word of advice before you start to configure any two systems together, is
to make sure that each is working successfully by itself.  If it doesn't
work successfully by itself, chances are great that the two won't work
together!

When doing the Microbit setup, 4 Virtual Com Ports were created (Com0-3)
for Remote Rig to use, and were tied in to specific hardware ports in the
computer.  You should go into Device Manager and write down the 4 comport
pairs- you will need this info.  If your comport numbers for the 1st 3
comports are less than 8, you're all set, otherwise you need to make all
but the FSK comport to be 8 or less.

Radio CAT for RR Control Unit
1. Connect DB9 cable direct from computer to radio.  Choose a comport that
is NOT in use as a virtual comport.  For my K3, I use Com1 (a real hardware
comport) and 38400N81-Off-Off; make sure the radio control works.
2. Unplug RS232 Cable from computer to K3, and plug it into RRControl Com1.
3. Plug in RS232 Cable from RRControl Com2 to K3.
4. Radio Control through the Computer should now work- verify.

CW Keying
1. Connect the USB cable from a USB port on the computer to the RRControl.
2. Using one of the virtual comports you identified, config N1MM using the
computer Com port number; in my case, Com 3 was the comport I used, and it
was tied to RR Com0.  In N1MM, I configured Com3 for "CW/Other", and set
"DTR to CW".
3. Open a browser and go to the IP for the RRControl box.  Under IO
settings, make "USB DTR as CW" to be "COM0", submit and update.
4. The remote rig should now be keyed via N1MM messages.

SSB
1. The supplied microphone cable was of no use to me, as I don't have a
mike with an 8-pin DIN plug, so I made my own cable using a CAT5 end from a
damaged piece of cable, a 3.5mm stereo jack, and a phono jack.  If you make
your own cable, Mike Hot is the Green/White striped wire, Mike Ground is
the Blue wire, PTT Hot is the Blue/White striped wire, and PTT Gnd is the
green wire.  This was from a standard CAT5 cable piece.
2. I could not figure out a way to use VOX on the unit without an outboard
carrier operated relay type setup.

RTTY
1. The manual shows the correct way to setup MMTTY.  If you use MMTTY
version 1.68A, it will support comports up to 15.  I went back to Device
Manager, and made my virtual FSK Comport to be Com15.
2. There is nothing to setup in N1MM; just put Comport 15 into MMTTY.
3. The audio from the RRControl unit to the Sound card was too high a
level, so I had to reduce the Radio Settings- Codec Out Gain to 220.
4. A tip- hook up the decoding audio chain before you try and transmit.  I
didn't hook up the audio  decoding and transmitted, and MMTTY doesn't drop
back into Rx unless the audio decoding is hooked up.  Now I can use N1MM to
send RTTY messages via Remote Rig.

Radio Control- Remote Unit
1. My remote unit is housed at a contest station, and we wanted to minimize
recabling when going from Remote to normal station use.  Just follow the
setup for the RR Control Unit above and it works just fine.

One more tip:
I'm using the K3 Twin concept with the Remote Rig.  When I turned on the
Control Radio and it was already in TERM mode, the audio was not muted and
didn't mute unless I went to NORM mode and then back to TERM mode.  To
avoid this problem, I reduce AF Gain to minimum and THEN turn on the
Control K3.  When it connects, there is no audio from the Control K3.

Dennis W1UE
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[Elecraft] OT: Nixie clock

[Tony Estep]

My son gave me a Nixie clock kit for Christmas and it looks great in my
shack. If you don't mind SMD components (there's just one), you might enjoy
building this kit from Tubeclock.com.

And BTW, here's wishing everybody a Happy New Year full of DX!

73,
Tony KT0NY
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Nixie clock

[Phil Kane]

On 12/27/2013 3:47 PM, Tony Estep wrote:

> My son gave me a Nixie clock kit for Christmas and it looks great in my
> shack. If you don't mind SMD components (there's just one), you might enjoy
> building this kit from Tubeclock.com.

How funny!  Nixie tubes - 1960s components - and SMDs (2000s components)
in the same device!

Don't mean to reopen the topic, but what is the accuracy of this clock?

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Safely running 100% key-down modes (K1FFX)

[Fred Jensen]

FWIW:  I used to run RTTY on my K2/100 [AFSK into mic jack and from 
headphone jack].  I put a little square of sticky-back velcro on top of 
the heat sink over the part that got the warmest and used it to stick a 
12VDC muffin fan down, blowing down into the heat sink.  I found I could 
run RTTY at 100W and the heat sink stayed cool to the touch.  The fan 
was almost silent, totally silent with headphones on, and the only 
anomaly was on 15 if the beam was pointed across the shack [toward 
VK/ZL].  Then, when I was transmitting, the fan would slow way down. :-)


I use the K3 now, usually driving the KPA500 to 500W, and I sold the 
KPA100 and KAT100 ... my K2 is my field rig.


I really don't think anyone need worry about Elecraft gear needing to be 
derated very much.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 12/27/2013 1:21 PM, Bob wrote:

Hi Bruce,

I haven't tried JT-65 but I've been running PSK-31 on my K2 with the KPA100
power set at 50% (i.e., 50 watts) or less without any problems. Although my
transmissions are not longer than several minutes each, I understand that at
the power level, you could have much longer transmissions without problems.



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Nixie clock

[Mark Bayern]

If you don't like the SMD parts, you could try a nixie clock kit with
only discrete components: http://http://tube-clock.com/ -- lots of
soldering!

.. and this clock uses the utility 60Hz as its time base.

Mark AD5SS


On Fri, Dec 27, 2013 at 5:57 PM, Phil Kane  wrote:
> On 12/27/2013 3:47 PM, Tony Estep wrote:
>
>> My son gave me a Nixie clock kit for Christmas and it looks great in my
>> shack. If you don't mind SMD components (there's just one), you might enjoy
>> building this kit from Tubeclock.com.
>
> How funny!  Nixie tubes - 1960s components - and SMDs (2000s components)
> in the same device!
>
> Don't mean to reopen the topic, but what is the accuracy of this clock?
> 
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
>
> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Nixie clock

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

Some NIXIE clocks use GPS for time, which is good enough for most 
purposes.  :-)


On 12/27/2013 3:57 PM, Phil Kane wrote:

Don't mean to reopen the topic, but what is the accuracy of this clock?


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Nixie clock

[Walter Underwood]

According to the assembly manual, it uses the power line 60Hz as a frequency 
reference. Last I heard, the utilities actually manage the frequency so the 
long-term average is very close to 60Hz.

If you want real-time data on power line frequency, check out the FNET 
measurement network. It looks like my grid is currently at 59.990.

http://fnetpublic.utk.edu/

wunder

On Dec 27, 2013, at 5:38 PM, "Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT" 
 wrote:

> Some NIXIE clocks use GPS for time, which is good enough for most purposes.  
> :-)
> 
> On 12/27/2013 3:57 PM, Phil Kane wrote:
>> Don't mean to reopen the topic, but what is the accuracy of this clock?
> 




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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Nixie clock

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

There is a difference between "some" and "this."

All of the clocks here get their time via some network, or from the GPS 
constellation.


On 12/27/2013 5:47 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:

According to the assembly manual, it uses the power line 60Hz as a frequency 
reference. Last I heard, the utilities actually manage the frequency so the 
long-term average is very close to 60Hz.

If you want real-time data on power line frequency, check out the FNET 
measurement network. It looks like my grid is currently at 59.990.

http://fnetpublic.utk.edu/

wunder

On Dec 27, 2013, at 5:38 PM, "Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT" 
 wrote:


Some NIXIE clocks use GPS for time, which is good enough for most purposes.  :-)

On 12/27/2013 3:57 PM, Phil Kane wrote:

Don't mean to reopen the topic, but what is the accuracy of this clock?




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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Nixie clock

[Walter Underwood]

Phil asked about "this clock", and since there is only one clock on that site 
which is a kit, I am pretty sure that we're discussing the clock built from 
this manual. Please read it before deciding how it keeps time.

http://www.tubeclock.com/manual.pdf

If there are other Nixie clock kits, please share the information on those. A 
nice gallery of built Nixie clocks is here:

http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/nixiegallery.html

wunder
K6WRU

On Dec 27, 2013, at 6:02 PM, "Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT" 
 wrote:

> There is a difference between "some" and "this."
> 
> All of the clocks here get their time via some network, or from the GPS 
> constellation.
> 
> On 12/27/2013 5:47 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:
>> According to the assembly manual, it uses the power line 60Hz as a frequency 
>> reference. Last I heard, the utilities actually manage the frequency so the 
>> long-term average is very close to 60Hz.
>> 
>> If you want real-time data on power line frequency, check out the FNET 
>> measurement network. It looks like my grid is currently at 59.990.
>> 
>> http://fnetpublic.utk.edu/
>> 
>> wunder
>> 
>> On Dec 27, 2013, at 5:38 PM, "Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT" 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> Some NIXIE clocks use GPS for time, which is good enough for most purposes. 
>>>  :-)
>>> 
>>> On 12/27/2013 3:57 PM, Phil Kane wrote:
 Don't mean to reopen the topic, but what is the accuracy of this clock?
>> 
>> 
>> 




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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Nixie clock

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

I apologize for my tone, I meant for that post to be off-list.

I understand that "this clock" keeps time by counting 60 Hz, and I have 
heard that the power company works pretty hard to count cycles and tweak 
a little to keep clocks accurate.


Many of the NIXIE kits I've seen offered on eBay have a GPS input for 
those who don't like setting clocks.


In most of the world, 60 Hz more than good enough.  It certainly is if 
you want accurate time to the second, and don't mind going to a little 
trouble to set to an accurate source, like WWV.


I like clocks that set themselves.  I was simply stating that those 
exist if someone wants a retro-technology clock with some new-tech features.


-- Lynn

On 12/27/2013 6:18 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:

Phil asked about "this clock", and since there is only one clock on that site 
which is a kit, I am pretty sure that we're discussing the clock built from this manual. 
Please read it before deciding how it keeps time.

http://www.tubeclock.com/manual.pdf

If there are other Nixie clock kits, please share the information on those. A 
nice gallery of built Nixie clocks is here:

http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/nixiegallery.html

wunder
K6WRU

On Dec 27, 2013, at 6:02 PM, "Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT" 
 wrote:


There is a difference between "some" and "this."

All of the clocks here get their time via some network, or from the GPS 
constellation.

On 12/27/2013 5:47 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:

According to the assembly manual, it uses the power line 60Hz as a frequency 
reference. Last I heard, the utilities actually manage the frequency so the 
long-term average is very close to 60Hz.

If you want real-time data on power line frequency, check out the FNET 
measurement network. It looks like my grid is currently at 59.990.

http://fnetpublic.utk.edu/

wunder

On Dec 27, 2013, at 5:38 PM, "Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT" 
 wrote:


Some NIXIE clocks use GPS for time, which is good enough for most purposes.  :-)

On 12/27/2013 3:57 PM, Phil Kane wrote:

Don't mean to reopen the topic, but what is the accuracy of this clock?







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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Nixie clock

[Mark Bayern]

>>"Phil asked about "this clock", and since there is only one clock on that 
>>site which is a kit, I am pretty sure that we're discussing the clock built 
>>from this manual. Please read it before deciding how it keeps time.

... well, there appear to be at least two clocks on the tubeclock.com
website. One that uses the IN-12, and one that uses the IN-14 nixie
tube. There is also another totally separate business (KABtronics)
that sells a discrete nixie clock kit at tube-clock.com.

The tubeclock.com website is confusing. In the manual for the IN-12
clock, the utility 60Hz is used for the time base. The website's FAQ
says, "The IN-14 clocks use a crystal oscillator to keep track of
time. The default accuracy of the oscillator is 20 parts per million
(0.002%)."

The tube-clock.com website which has the totally discrete nixie clock
uses the utility 60 (or 50) Hz as a timebase.

Mark AD5SS

On Fri, Dec 27, 2013 at 8:18 PM, Walter Underwood  wrote:
> Phil asked about "this clock", and since there is only one clock on that site 
> which is a kit, I am pretty sure that we're discussing the clock built from 
> this manual. Please read it before deciding how it keeps time.
>
> http://www.tubeclock.com/manual.pdf
>
> If there are other Nixie clock kits, please share the information on those. A 
> nice gallery of built Nixie clocks is here:
>
> http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/nixiegallery.html
>
> wunder
> K6WRU
>
> On Dec 27, 2013, at 6:02 PM, "Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT" 
>  wrote:
>
>> There is a difference between "some" and "this."
>>
>> All of the clocks here get their time via some network, or from the GPS 
>> constellation.
>>
>> On 12/27/2013 5:47 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:
>>> According to the assembly manual, it uses the power line 60Hz as a 
>>> frequency reference. Last I heard, the utilities actually manage the 
>>> frequency so the long-term average is very close to 60Hz.
>>>
>>> If you want real-time data on power line frequency, check out the FNET 
>>> measurement network. It looks like my grid is currently at 59.990.
>>>
>>> http://fnetpublic.utk.edu/
>>>
>>> wunder
>>>
>>> On Dec 27, 2013, at 5:38 PM, "Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT" 
>>>  wrote:
>>>
 Some NIXIE clocks use GPS for time, which is good enough for most 
 purposes.  :-)

 On 12/27/2013 3:57 PM, Phil Kane wrote:
> Don't mean to reopen the topic, but what is the accuracy of this clock?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] 144XV construction experience?

[Don Wilhelm]

That caution is not restricted to the Elecraft XV series transverters, 
but is appropriate for any receiver that uses sensitive devices for the 
receiver front end.  The XV series uses the AT F 34143 for the preamp 
front end.  Yes, that is a sensitive device that can be damaged by high 
RF input.  It is prudent to use means to protect that front end from 
excessive RF from other nearby transmitters whether that be an Elecraft 
product or any other brand.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2013 4:23 PM, Lloyd Korb wrote:

Allan,

I am in the process of building the 222 version.  Just a word of warning
that I received in an email from Elecraft.  Now, the caution about
disconnecting the antenna when transmitting close to the 222 antenna is
going to be a real PITA when working the contests!  Removing during
lightning storms is a no brainer!




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[Elecraft] Is it Competition

[george fritkin]

Check.  ARRL test for the TS990 is on their site.  Interesting results

George, W6GF
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