[Elecraft] JT modes alignment

2014-02-11 Thread F5LCI
Hello,
After successful use of JT65 with my KX3 overseas, I am back to my K2.
According to the manual, the r mode is advised, because passband and ALC
are optimized.
(I never use RTTY)
On my rig, the r mode, as the reverted r mode, give the same reverted
tones on the wsjt window, and no decode, of course.
Is JT65  impossible on this mode, or do I have to reconsider the filters
alignment or anything else ?

Best 72 de Jean-Marc, F5LCI

To nobody, except those who will take pleasure here (Franz Schubert,
1797-1828)



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[Elecraft] Vedr: Elecraft Kit Idea

2014-02-11 Thread Martin Storli - LA8OKA
Excellent idea!!
But it should be a transverter so I could transmit on the 137 kHz band and the 
600 m band.

Martin Storli 
LA8OKA
Oslo, Norway 
 
ARCTICPEAK's Radio pages! 
http://www.arcticpeak.com/radio.htm
 


 Fra: K7JLTextra k7jltex...@gmail.com
Til: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sendt: Mandag, 10. februar 2014 16.59
Emne: [Elecraft] Elecraft Kit Idea
  

An up converter from 10kHz to 500kHz with typical Elecraft quality would be 
acceptable by me. I have one already but not of the quality I would expect from 
the boys in Aptos, so would gladly purchase  build their kit. 

John Hendricks K7JLT
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Re: [Elecraft] JT modes alignment

2014-02-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jean-Marc,

Yes, you will need to align those filters.
I normally set the FL1 position to OP1, FL2 to 1.00, FL3 to 0.70 and FL4 
to 0.40 widths.
Then set the BFOs for FL1 to the same values as the SSB filters - RTTY 
corresponds to LSB and RTTY REV corresponds to USB.  That filter will be 
used for transmit in all cases and works well with a waterfall display 
for normal receive.
Set the other filters to center on 1000 Hz.  Those can be used if a 
strong interfering signal appears inside the passband of the OP1 
filter.  Observe the LSB/USB relationship - the DAC numbers (and also 
frequency) will be higher for RTTY REV.


If you have the KDSP2 option, also set those filters 2, 3, and 4 to 
center at 1000 Hz to agree with the IF filter centers.


The use of Spectrogram is recommended when aligning the IF filters. You 
can download a copy from my website www.w3fpr.com - look near the bottom 
of the home page.  Instructions for the use of Spectrogram can be found 
in the K2 Dial Calibration article.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 2/11/2014 3:07 AM, F5LCI wrote:

Hello,
After successful use of JT65 with my KX3 overseas, I am back to my K2.
According to the manual, the r mode is advised, because passband and ALC
are optimized.
(I never use RTTY)
On my rig, the r mode, as the reverted r mode, give the same reverted
tones on the wsjt window, and no decode, of course.
Is JT65  impossible on this mode, or do I have to reconsider the filters
alignment or anything else ?

Best 72 de Jean-Marc, F5LCI

To nobody, except those who will take pleasure here (Franz Schubert,
1797-1828)



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Re: [Elecraft] JT modes alignment

2014-02-11 Thread F5LCI
Hi Don, and thank you for the fast reply (as usual!)
I can use the USB mode, decoding is OK, But the ALC is not optimized for
digital modes.

 My only problem: R and reverse R behave equally ; I thought that the
tones would be inverted...
I seriously wonder : Was I wrong with alignment with the reverse R mode
only ?
I had carefully aligned my filters ...many years ago, before JT65 appeared.
So I'll have to RTFM to remind the procedure.
Back to the book...

72, Jean-Marc, F5LCI


Le Tue, 11 Feb 2014 14:15:27 +0100, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com a
écrit:

 Jean-Marc,

 Yes, you will need to align those filters.
 I normally set the FL1 position to OP1, FL2 to 1.00, FL3 to 0.70 and FL4  
 to 0.40 widths.
 Then set the BFOs for FL1 to the same values as the SSB filters - RTTY  
 corresponds to LSB and RTTY REV corresponds to USB.  That filter will be  
 used for transmit in all cases and works well with a waterfall display  
 for normal receive.
 Set the other filters to center on 1000 Hz.  Those can be used if a  
 strong interfering signal appears inside the passband of the OP1  
 filter.  Observe the LSB/USB relationship - the DAC numbers (and also  
 frequency) will be higher for RTTY REV.

 If you have the KDSP2 option, also set those filters 2, 3, and 4 to  
 center at 1000 Hz to agree with the IF filter centers.

 The use of Spectrogram is recommended when aligning the IF filters. You  
 can download a copy from my website www.w3fpr.com - look near the bottom  
 of the home page.  Instructions for the use of Spectrogram can be found  
 in the K2 Dial Calibration article.

 73,
 Don W3FPR



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[Elecraft] What is actually present on Rx-Out BNC of the KXV3 RF bosrd??

2014-02-11 Thread Bob KD7YZ
I bought a Fucubr Donglr Pro+ AKA FCDP+ or FC+ .
The USB device has a connector to which, via adapter(s), one can connect
any antenna we all own.

So I want whatever antenna the K3 is currently using to let signals from
that antenna, in the Rx mode only, to be present on Rx-Out BNC, on the
back of my K3.

I thought I was perhaps there except that the signals appearing on a
waterfall display, of SDR-Radio  program, were all but reduced to 0 they
were so very very weak.

Is there another adjustment, in the CONFIG, I need to make?

-- 

Bob KD7YZ
http://www.qrz.com/db/KD7YZ
www.denstarfarm.us/LGD
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[Elecraft] Need a few testers for new K3/KPA500/KAT500 field-test firmware

2014-02-11 Thread Wayne Burdick
These new releases correct all known amp/ATU retuning problems, and also add 
frequency tracking, where the KAT500 updates its LC network as you move the 
K3's VFO.

If you have time to install and test the new firmware right away, please email 
me directly. 

Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 -- Want P3-Like Display on a Mac

2014-02-11 Thread Jim Bennett
Looked around a bit more and perhaps NaP3 may be the way to go. I need to do a 
bit more research on this. Also looks like maybe LP-Bridge or LPB2 may be 
needed if I want the KX3 to get to multiple applications. Not sure on that one. 
I use the Mac version of the KX3 Utility and my logging program is MacLoggerDX 
(also a Mac app), so LPB2 may have no benefit for me, unless I can find a way 
for the virtual ports to be split between Win/XP and OS X.

One other thing that I'm concerned about is this soundcard issue. Not sure 
how to handle such things on an iMac. But I'll figger it out! :-)

Jim / W6JHB

On Feb 10, 2014, at 9:59 PM, Matt VK2RQ wrote:

 If you are happy to run Windows XP under VMWare, then NaP3 will give you a 
 good experience.
 
 I briefly had a closer look at Quisk -- the problem is that is depends on 
 ALSA sound libraries, and since macports doesn't support this, a little bit 
 of hacking is required to remove this dependency and rely solely on the 
 portaudio libraries. There would also some (trivial) changes required to 
 remove dependencies on the linux parallel port driver. Not sure if someone 
 has already gone through this exercise yet or not. Otherwise, you would need 
 some basic coding skills to make it work.
 
 The I/Q output needs to be fed into a soundcard with stereo capability -- 
 this soundcard could be a USB soundcard such as the Soundblaster X-Fi. Most 
 of the PC SDR applications can then use this to display a waterfall. The I/Q 
 streams don't contain digital data or anything fancy like that, rather they 
 are simple analogue signals. This is why you need a soundcard or other A/D 
 convterter to digitise the signal in order to for the SDR application to 
 process it. It is convenient to have some basic integration with the radio 
 (ie. via the KXUSB or KXSER cable) so that the application can read the VFO 
 frequency from the radio and display appropriate frequency labels on the 
 spectrum/waterfall display, but this is a nice-to-have.
 
 73, Matt VK2RQ
 

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Re: [Elecraft] What is actually present on Rx-Out BNC of the KXV3 RF bosrd??

2014-02-11 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


There is nothing there on the RX Out unless one select RX Ant.  Look
at the K3 schematics and read the Owners Manual.  If you want to split
the main receiver antenna feed, you will need to add a splitter to the
RX Out, connect one output port to your Fucbr (whatever that is), the
other output port back to the RX Ant jack and select RX Ant.   The
splitting loss will be a killer on 6, 12, 10 and possibly 15 meters so
it will be necessary to use a preamp ahead of the splitter to maintain
sensitivity on those bands.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2/11/2014 10:54 AM, Bob KD7YZ wrote:

I bought a Fucubr Donglr Pro+ AKA FCDP+ or FC+ .
The USB device has a connector to which, via adapter(s), one can connect
any antenna we all own.

So I want whatever antenna the K3 is currently using to let signals from
that antenna, in the Rx mode only, to be present on Rx-Out BNC, on the
back of my K3.

I thought I was perhaps there except that the signals appearing on a
waterfall display, of SDR-Radio  program, were all but reduced to 0 they
were so very very weak.

Is there another adjustment, in the CONFIG, I need to make?


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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] curious behavior of the K3/P3, etc.

2014-02-11 Thread Scott Monks
Sorry Bill and all--I was describing the behavior when on CW.  I more often use 
these adjustments on CW, but if it is important for understanding the question 
(and for me to understand what's going on!) I will check with SSB when I get 
home this evening.

Thanks,
Scott  AA0AA




 From: bill conkling n...@widomaker.com
To: Scott Monks cq_dx_de_aa...@yahoo.com 
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] curious behavior of the K3/P3, etc.
 


On question 2, what band?  On LSB bands, HiCut is the lower freq edge as its 
the farthest away from the center carrier, hence higher freq audio.


...bill nr4c


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Scott Monks cq_dx_de_aa...@yahoo.com wrote:

Now before you guys think I too am complaining--no, I just have a curious mind!

Two questions that I am sure you more experienced can help me with:

1. When I begin narrowing the DSP down, on filter 1 (2.7, std, offset -0.84) 
only the lower freq side moves.  The DSP switches to the 2.1 filter, reacting 
the same, but when it narrows to about 1.10 (within filter 2; 2.1, offset 0.0) 
it changes so that both low and high move equally.  Even narrowing continues 
through the 700 and 400 Hz filters.  The reverse occurs in the same way.   I 
have checked the offsets with the K3 program, and they are set as required.  
On the K-3 display the bar-thing always seems to move equally on both sides. 
 Is this normal?

2. When seen on the P-3, on hi-cut-lo, if I move the lo side, the higher freq 
side moves, and if I move the hi side, the lower freq side moves.  On the K-3 
display the expected side moves.  Again, is this normal?

I have the last production software installed.  This was first noticed when I 
got the P3 and a big screen, when in a contest I wanted to shift the 
receiver up to avoid a disturbing signal and found I had to move the hi side 
to move the lo side!  Now I am accustomed and just watch my screen to make 
sure I am moving outside of the interfering peak.

These only bother me because I know there must be a reason but I don't why 
it happens!  If curiosity is going to kill the cat, don't tell me and I will 
just continue to be happy with my partial K-line!

Thanks for your patience,
Scott  AA0AA
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Re: [Elecraft] Help setting up K3 w N1MM

2014-02-11 Thread Fred Jensen
I had no problem doing what you ask on my old XP laptop, and after it 
finally flamed out, I set the same thing up on the new Win 7 laptop.  I 
use the USB-serial adapter I think I got from Elecraft [Prolific chip 
set at any rate] which comes up as COM4.


With XP and PTT/Keying through the RTS-DTR lines, the CW was *almost* 
flawless.  Every now and then, Windoze would decide it needed to do 
something more important than running N1MM for me and if the logger was 
sending something at that moment, it would be massacred.  I finally went 
to a WinKeyUSB which comes up as COM5 and all is well.  Never tried 
RTS-DTR keying with the Win 7 machine.


So, what you want is normal operation for N1MM.  You need to check the 
Windows Device Manager [Ports] to see what the COM port is for your 
adapter to the K3. In the N1MM Config menu, go to Config Ports menu [top 
one] and set that COM port to a K3.  If you're still going to use 
RTS-DTR keying, you set that up using the SET button to the right of the 
COM port entry.  Be sure and set the K3 menu item to match.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 2/10/2014 8:39 PM, Dave Barr wrote:

I am looking for advice in how to set up my K3 with N1MM incorporating
rig control at least to the extent of having the radio control the
logging frequency and mode shown in N1MM primarily for AFSK RTTY using
just the Elecraft USB to serial adapter cable (in addition to the audio
in/out connections to the computer sound card).I have had no problem
setting up for Digital and CW without any K3 to N1MM control interaction
other than ptt and cw keying.  The K3 Utility works fine.  The digital
engine is MMTTY. Page 84 of the KE7X K3 manual suggests that what I want
to do is possible.   Help!

Dave, K2YG



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[Elecraft] Tuner Loss question

2014-02-11 Thread Jobst Vandrey
I have lots of data in the loss to be expected in Coax or Open wire when
running at higher SWR into a multiband antenna  - however, I do NOT have
any real world data on the losses to be expected in a tuner system at
higher SWR.

So:

Are there any numbers available on what additional losses my Elecraft K3
(SN 5283) antenna tuner will experience when the SWR is high - say about
5:1 or higher when feeding a multiband antenna with 50 Ohm coax on 20
meters?  Should I expect another 3 dB down in signal strength during
receive - and also Transmit?  Or are the losses higher or lower then that?
 Also, are the losses frequency dependent (like on coax) or are they the
same across the bands.

Thanks for any available data.

Jobst
AC0LP
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[Elecraft] SSB net last Sunday

2014-02-11 Thread Phil Shepard
I am sorry for disappearing last weekend.  We got a heavy snowstorm over two 
days followed by an ice storm.  I had 11” of snow and then thick ice on 
everything.  Branches and entire trees came crashing down.  The were widespread 
power outages.  My power was off from Saturday morning until dinner time 
yesterday.  I tried sending emails to the list via cell phone but evidently 
couldn’t get enough signal.  I still can’t get our cars out to the paved road, 
even though I spent several hours plowing and shoveling yesterday.  It’s up 
into the 40s today, so I’m hopeful.  Fortunately, my antennas survived the ice 
fine.  The quad’s wires really sagged, but they held up.

Was there a net on Sunday?

73,
Phil, NS7P
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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] curious behavior of the K3/P3, etc.

2014-02-11 Thread bill conkling
Hi/lo cut is usually used for ssb operation.  But I think K3 cw is lower than 
carrier so same applies.

...bill

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Scott Monks cq_dx_de_aa...@yahoo.com wrote:

Sorry Bill and all--I was describing the behavior when on CW.  I more often 
use these adjustments on CW, but if it is important for understanding the 
question (and for me to understand what's going on!) I will check with SSB 
when I get home this evening.


Thanks,

Scott  AA0AA


From: bill conkling n...@widomaker.com
To: Scott Monks cq_dx_de_aa...@yahoo.com 
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] curious behavior of the K3/P3, etc.


On question 2, what band?  On LSB bands, HiCut is the lower freq edge as its 
the farthest away from the center carrier, hence higher freq audio.


...bill nr4c


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID



Scott Monks cq_dx_de_aa...@yahoo.com wrote:

Now before you guys think I too am complaining--no, I just have a curious mind!

Two questions that I am sure you more experienced can help me with:

1. When I begin narrowing the DSP down, on filter 1 (2.7, std, offset -0.84) 
only the lower freq side moves.  The DSP switches to the 2.1 filter, reacting 
the same, but when it narrows to about 1.10 (within filter 2; 2.1, offset 0.0) 
it changes so that both low and high move equally.  Even narrowing continues 
through the 700 and 400 Hz filters.  The reverse occurs in the same way.   I 
have checked the offsets with the K3 program, and they are set as required.  
On the K-3 display the bar-thing always seems to move equally on both sides. 
 Is this normal?

2. When seen on the P-3, on hi-cut-lo, if I move the lo side, the higher freq 
side moves, and if I move the hi side, the lower freq side moves.  On the K-3 
display the expected side moves.  Again, is this normal?

I have the last production software installed.  This was first noticed when I 
got the P3 and a big screen, when in a contest I wanted to shift the 
receiver up to avoid a disturbing signal and found I had to move the hi side 
to move the lo side!  Now I am accustomed and just watch my screen to make 
sure I am moving outside of the interfering peak.

These only bother me because I know there must be a reason but I don't why 
it happens!  If curiosity is going to kill the cat, don't tell me and I will 
just continue to be happy with my partial K-line!

Thanks for your patience,
Scott  AA0AA
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[Elecraft] The K3 and P3 have been sold pending receipt of funds

2014-02-11 Thread William Hein
73 and thanks to all

Bill AA7XT
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[Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC isolator

2014-02-11 Thread John Saxon
Off topic here:

I am experimenting with two different antennas and would like to switch between 
them with a relay.  I am considering getting an isolator that permits placing 
the DC control voltage on the rf coax.  Any thoughts on this?  I have never 
done this before and would appreciate any advice/suggestions.

OH...I am using my K3/10...so maybe not ENTIRELY off topic :-)

--
John 
K5ENQ
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Re: [Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC isolator

2014-02-11 Thread WILLIS COOKE
It is not very hard to do this John.  Just feed the RF in and out with a couple 
of RF capacitors and feed the DC in and out through 1 or 2 MH chokes  I think 
MFJ has them for sale and I know they have them in tje MFJ 927 AMP.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: John Saxon johnbsa...@yahoo.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 12:34 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC isolator
 

Off topic here:

I am experimenting with two different antennas and would like to switch between 
them with a relay.  I am considering getting an isolator that permits placing 
the DC control voltage on the rf coax.  Any thoughts on this?  I have never 
done this before and would appreciate any advice/suggestions.

OH...I am using my K3/10...so maybe not ENTIRELY off topic :-)

--
John 
K5ENQ
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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] curious behavior of the K3/P3, etc.

2014-02-11 Thread Richard Ferch

OK, if you're talking about CW, the K3's normal CW is on lower sideband.

In CW the filter behaviour gets tangled up with the sidetone pitch 
setting, which is also the default FC (centre frequency) for the filters 
in CW mode. Suppose the sidetone pitch/FC is 500 Hz and the BW 
(bandwidth) is 2000 Hz. Given those numbers, the calculated hi-cut and 
lo-cut frequencies would be 1500 Hz (FC + BW/2) and -500 Hz (FC - BW/2). 
That's a minus sign on the lo-cut frequency, meaning it's on the other 
sideband. The firmware should not allow that; it needs to place the 
lo-cut frequency on the proper sideband far enough above zero to give 
adequate carrier and opposite sideband suppression. IIRC, the low-pass 
cutoff is adjustable in the latest firmware - I believe it can be set to 
100 Hz, 200 Hz or 300 Hz.


So, with the low-pass cutoff set at 200 Hz, FC at 500 Hz and BW at 2000 
Hz, the actual filter bandpass will be from 200 Hz to 1500 Hz. Adjusting 
the Width control would only affect the upper limit, as the lower limit 
is fixed by the low-pass cutoff. If the Width setting is sufficiently 
narrow for the calculated lo-cut frequency to be at or above the 
low-pass cutoff (100, 200 or 300 Hz), the effect of the Width control 
becomes symmetric about the centre frequency, as you might have 
originally expected.


Because CW is on the lower sideband, adjusting the Width control only 
affects the lower RF (=higher audio) edge of the bandpass - the upper 
edge is fixed by the low-pass cutoff.


Does this help make sense of your observations?

73,
Rich VE3KI


AA0AA wrote:


Sorry Bill and all--I was describing the behavior when on CW.=A0 I more oft=
en use these adjustments on CW, but if it is important for understanding th=
e question (and for me to understand what's going on!) I will check with SS=
B when I get home this evening.


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Re: [Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC isolator

2014-02-11 Thread Walter Underwood
The thing that puts DC on coax is called a bias tee, so search for that.  
--wunder (K6WRU)

On Feb 11, 2014, at 11:00 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote:

 It is not very hard to do this John.  Just feed the RF in and out with a 
 couple of RF capacitors and feed the DC in and out through 1 or 2 MH chokes  
 I think MFJ has them for sale and I know they have them in tje MFJ 927 AMP.
  
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
 K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
 
 
 
 From: John Saxon johnbsa...@yahoo.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 12:34 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC isolator
 
 
 Off topic here:
 
 I am experimenting with two different antennas and would like to switch 
 between them with a relay.  I am considering getting an isolator that permits 
 placing the DC control voltage on the rf coax.  Any thoughts on this?  I have 
 never done this before and would appreciate any advice/suggestions.
 
 OH...I am using my K3/10...so maybe not ENTIRELY off topic :-)
 
 --
 John 
 K5ENQ



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[Elecraft] KX3 for Sale UK

2014-02-11 Thread Alan Elcoate
*Elecraft KX3 - Fully loaded plus Wonder Wand Wideband antenna.*



Serial Number 2657, bought from WS fully assembled.



As well as the Basic KX3 it has the following fitted

·Roofing filter KXFL3

·Auto ATU KXAT3

·NiMH charger  clock   KXBC3



Complete with MH3 microphone  KXUSBA interface lead and fitted with a set
of High Capacity NiMH cells.  Latest firmware upgrade loaded and in
excellent clean working condition with original box  manual.  I will
provide a power lead with correct DC plug and the psu end terminated in 4mm
plugs plus a BNC to SO239 adaptor.



Reason for sale is deteriorating health - means I won't be able to get out
and about as much in future - and also won't be able to get the 100W linear
to use as a base station.  I have used this a few times parked in a noise
free country park with a whip antenna on the car with very good results
considering the power but never used the Wonder Wand!  Mainly used as a
receiver at home - excellent filtering - as I've a very noisy
urban location.



If you collect I'll throw in a dedicated stand and a Watson SP-180A
amplified speaker or these will be sold separately.



To buy now would cost £1552-65



Only £1080 ovno inc economy UK mainland delivery (next day can be arranged
at cost) or come  see it working over a coffee in Basildon, Essex.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC isolator

2014-02-11 Thread Barry LaZar

John,
Does isolators are called bias-Ts. They are a common way to do what 
you want. You should be able to buy one without great difficulty. Just 
make sure that the one you buy is for the frequency range you plan to 
use it in. MFJ makes one for HF if that is where you plan to operate.


73,
Barry
K3NDM


On 2/11/2014 1:34 PM, John Saxon wrote:

Off topic here:

I am experimenting with two different antennas and would like to switch between 
them with a relay.  I am considering getting an isolator that permits placing 
the DC control voltage on the rf coax.  Any thoughts on this?  I have never 
done this before and would appreciate any advice/suggestions.

OH...I am using my K3/10...so maybe not ENTIRELY off topic :-)

--
John
K5ENQ
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[Elecraft] KXPA100...would a person opt to buy a KAT500 instead?

2014-02-11 Thread tomb18
Hi, Just a question for the group:If someone buys a KXPA100 amp for the KX3, is 
it possible that they decide not to get the KXAT100 tuner and instead go for a 
KAT500?
Thanks, Tom
va2fsq
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Re: [Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC isolator

2014-02-11 Thread Svend Spanget
Here is an interesting article:
http://www.ad5x.com/images/Articles/BiasT3amp.pdf
Svend, OZ7UV

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Re: [Elecraft] W4SMT K3 S-Meter

2014-02-11 Thread KQ8M
I'm sorry. I googled this but only get messages in forums with only one link 
which only goes to an eye glasses company. Could
someone pass along a URL for the download?

73,
Tim Herrick, KQ8M
Charter Member North Coast Contesters
k...@kq8m.com

AR-Cluster V6 kq8m.no-ip.org
User Ports: 23, 7373  with local skimmer, 7374 without local skimmer
Server Ports: V6 3607, V4 Active 3605, V4 Passive 3606


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred Jensen
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 10:30 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] W4SMT K3 S-Meter

OK, I tried this.  Fairly cool!  Doesn't work in contests when N1MM owns the 
CAT, but all the other times, it just does work.  I'm
pretty much CW, I pretty much run the CWT, so I see nothing on the S-meter 
above S9. 
  Now, I've been in this hobby for 60 years, I know none of this really 
matters, but seeing an S-Meter that looks vaguely like the
one on my
SX-28 as a teenager is sort of cool.

Still trying to figure out what the dB/uv scale under the S-scale means. 
  I calibrated my K3 S-meter to S9 = -73dBm using my service monitor which 
hasn't been calibrated in at least 2 decades.  Hey, this
is amateur radio, just having fun here.  P3 tracks with the K3 S-meter which 
is reassuring.

If W4SMT is listening, would be great to be able to fool with the averaging, 
like the P3.  On the other hand, I couldn't do that on
my SX-28, so nothing lost there.

Google W4SMT S-meter, you'll get a lot of posts [probably including this 
one], but the app is in there somewhere.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

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Re: [Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC isolator

2014-02-11 Thread mcduffie
On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 10:34:20 -0800 (PST), John Saxon wrote:

 I am experimenting with two different antennas and would like to switch bet=
 ween them with a relay. =A0I am considering getting an isolator that permit=
 s placing the DC control voltage on the rf coax. =A0Any thoughts on this? =
 =A0I have never done this before and would appreciate any advice/suggestion=
 s.

Well, I'm NOT using a K3 :o), but I use the MFJ 2-position remote switch and
have no issues with it so far.  It's nice to not have to install another run of
coax to the remote antenna location yet.  I intend to eventually, but it got me
by for now.  It's a 300 foot run and the switch works as advertised.  It comes
without a power source (they sell separately), but does have the DC inserter box
that the antenna 1-2 switch is mounted in.  It is unhandy to have it on the
shelf, because the coax hooks to it also.  But because they are merely switching
power on and off to the remote relay, you can leave it turned on, and switch the
power going to it via a desk mounted switch to accomplish the same thing.  Any
existing 12V supply will work.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Tuner Loss question

2014-02-11 Thread tom armour
Why do you need to know the loss of the tuner?  Put a power meter after the 
tuner and see what your rig is putting out.  
Is this the type of chart you are looking 
for?http://www.packetradio.com/pdfzips/SWRvsPowerNwatts.pdf
It is not really the tuner that is causing the loss.  It is more the feed line. 
 
You can test this by using an external tuner and placing a watt meter both in 
front and behind the tuner and see what kind of loss you are getting.
Yes the tuner will have loss, but relatively negligible.

73 - Tom - wa4ta

 Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 11:47:19 -0600
 From: jvand...@gmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Tuner Loss question
 
 I have lots of data in the loss to be expected in Coax or Open wire when
 running at higher SWR into a multiband antenna  - however, I do NOT have
 any real world data on the losses to be expected in a tuner system at
 higher SWR.
 
 So:
 
 Are there any numbers available on what additional losses my Elecraft K3
 (SN 5283) antenna tuner will experience when the SWR is high - say about
 5:1 or higher when feeding a multiband antenna with 50 Ohm coax on 20
 meters?  Should I expect another 3 dB down in signal strength during
 receive - and also Transmit?  Or are the losses higher or lower then that?
  Also, are the losses frequency dependent (like on coax) or are they the
 same across the bands.
 
 Thanks for any available data.
 
 Jobst
 AC0LP
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Re: [Elecraft] Tuner Loss question

2014-02-11 Thread Wes (N7WS)
Sorry, but the chart is showing mismatch loss.  When we use a tuner, we don't 
suffer mismatch loss; we suffer tuner losses, which despite the claim(s), can be 
appreciable.


N7WS


On 2/11/2014 2:36 PM, tom armour wrote:

Why do you need to know the loss of the tuner?  Put a power meter after the 
tuner and see what your rig is putting out.
Is this the type of chart you are looking 
for?http://www.packetradio.com/pdfzips/SWRvsPowerNwatts.pdf
It is not really the tuner that is causing the loss.  It is more the feed line.
You can test this by using an external tuner and placing a watt meter both in 
front and behind the tuner and see what kind of loss you are getting.
Yes the tuner will have loss, but relatively negligible.

73 - Tom - wa4ta


Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 11:47:19 -0600
From: jvand...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Tuner Loss question

I have lots of data in the loss to be expected in Coax or Open wire when
running at higher SWR into a multiband antenna  - however, I do NOT have
any real world data on the losses to be expected in a tuner system at
higher SWR.

So:

Are there any numbers available on what additional losses my Elecraft K3
(SN 5283) antenna tuner will experience when the SWR is high - say about
5:1 or higher when feeding a multiband antenna with 50 Ohm coax on 20
meters?  Should I expect another 3 dB down in signal strength during
receive - and also Transmit?  Or are the losses higher or lower then that?
  Also, are the losses frequency dependent (like on coax) or are they the
same across the bands.

Thanks for any available data.

Jobst
AC0LP



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Re: [Elecraft] Tuner Loss question

2014-02-11 Thread Phil Debbie Salas
Check out the ARRL antenna tuner reviews.  They all have loss measurements at 
up to 10:1 SWR for resistive loads.  There are two Elecraft ARRL tuner reviews: 
 KAT100 and KAT500.  

Phil – AD5X
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Re: [Elecraft] Tuner Loss question

2014-02-11 Thread Dick Dievendorff
I'd recommend trying Dean Straw's (N6BV) excellent Transmission Line for
Windows (TLW), packaged with recent editions of the ARRL Antenna book.  You
can make estimates of component Q and the tool estimates tuner losses for
various mismatches for different tuner configurations (L versus Pi versus
...). This is a modeling, not a measurement tool.

Phil, AD5X has included tuner loss information in his recent ATU review
articles in QST.  Maybe there's something on his site of interest.
http://www.ad5x.com

See particularly
http://www.ad5x.com/images/Presentations/Remote%20Tuners.PDF for a
description of his measurement technique for tuner loss measurement.

73 de Dick, K6KR

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wes (N7WS)
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 1:54 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tuner Loss question

Sorry, but the chart is showing mismatch loss.  When we use a tuner, we
don't suffer mismatch loss; we suffer tuner losses, which despite the
claim(s), can be appreciable.

N7WS


On 2/11/2014 2:36 PM, tom armour wrote:
 Why do you need to know the loss of the tuner?  Put a power meter after
the tuner and see what your rig is putting out.
 Is this the type of chart you are looking 
 for?http://www.packetradio.com/pdfzips/SWRvsPowerNwatts.pdf
 It is not really the tuner that is causing the loss.  It is more the feed
line.
 You can test this by using an external tuner and placing a watt meter both
in front and behind the tuner and see what kind of loss you are getting.
 Yes the tuner will have loss, but relatively negligible.

 73 - Tom - wa4ta

 Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 11:47:19 -0600
 From: jvand...@gmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Tuner Loss question

 I have lots of data in the loss to be expected in Coax or Open wire 
 when running at higher SWR into a multiband antenna  - however, I do 
 NOT have any real world data on the losses to be expected in a tuner 
 system at higher SWR.

 So:

 Are there any numbers available on what additional losses my Elecraft 
 K3 (SN 5283) antenna tuner will experience when the SWR is high - say 
 about
 5:1 or higher when feeding a multiband antenna with 50 Ohm coax on 20 
 meters?  Should I expect another 3 dB down in signal strength during 
 receive - and also Transmit?  Or are the losses higher or lower then
that?
   Also, are the losses frequency dependent (like on coax) or are they 
 the same across the bands.

 Thanks for any available data.

 Jobst
 AC0LP


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Re: [Elecraft] Tuner Loss question

2014-02-11 Thread Wes (N7WS)
You would need to know the unloaded Q of the capacitor(s) and Inductor(s) in the 
circuit when a match is obtained and the complex impedance (not the SWR) of the 
load to calculate the total loss.  More than likely, it will be highly frequency 
dependent.


N7WS.


On 2/11/2014 10:47 AM, Jobst Vandrey wrote:

I have lots of data in the loss to be expected in Coax or Open wire when
running at higher SWR into a multiband antenna  - however, I do NOT have
any real world data on the losses to be expected in a tuner system at
higher SWR.

So:

Are there any numbers available on what additional losses my Elecraft K3
(SN 5283) antenna tuner will experience when the SWR is high - say about
5:1 or higher when feeding a multiband antenna with 50 Ohm coax on 20
meters?  Should I expect another 3 dB down in signal strength during
receive - and also Transmit?  Or are the losses higher or lower then that?
  Also, are the losses frequency dependent (like on coax) or are they the
same across the bands.

Thanks for any available data.

Jobst
AC0LP



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Re: [Elecraft] Tuner Loss question

2014-02-11 Thread Fred Jensen

On 2/11/2014 9:47 AM, Jobst Vandrey wrote:

I have lots of data in the loss to be expected in Coax or Open wire when
running at higher SWR into a multiband antenna  - however, I do NOT have
any real world data on the losses to be expected in a tuner system at
higher SWR.


Obtain some sheet syrofoam and an indoor-outdoor remote reading 
thermometer.  Build a box from the styrofoam, enclose the tuner inside 
it with the remote temp sensor and seal the box up.  Record the 
temperature.  Fire up your TX into the tuner feeding the load of choice 
and let the temperature stabilize.  Be sure and ID every 10 mins.


Meanwhile, calculate the mass of the gas inside the box from its 
dimensions, the barometric pressure when you sealed up the box, and the 
Ideal Gas Law [PV=nRT].  Once the temperature stabilizes, you can 
calculate how much of your TX energy went into heat inside the box.  The 
rest went up the coax.  Calculate the loss from L[dB]=10*log[Ph/Po] 
where Ph = power lost to heat and Po = TX power.


So:

Are there any numbers available on what additional losses my Elecraft K3
(SN 5283) antenna tuner will experience when the SWR is high - say about
5:1 or higher when feeding a multiband antenna with 50 Ohm coax on 20
meters?  Should I expect another 3 dB down in signal strength during
receive - and also Transmit?  Or are the losses higher or lower then that?
  Also, are the losses frequency dependent (like on coax) or are they the
same across the bands.


Seriously, the best way is to find a technical review of the tuner by 
someone with all the appropriate test equipment.  Intrinsically, every 
tuner has loss that depends on many factors such as the Q of the 
inductors, the L/C ratios required to match a given load, the complex 
impedance presented to the tuner by the load, and the current phase of 
the moon.  However, it is very difficult to measure power in 
non-resistive situations and the odds that the loads presented by your 
multiband antenna are all resistive is right behind the odds you are 
pregnant with twins.  OK, I made up the part about the moon.  I seem to 
remember a QST series on tuner losses a few years ago, don't know if the 
KAT3 was one of the ones tested.


In reality, it is what it is and if you found the losses to be high at 
some combination, there's not much you can do about it save re-design 
your antenna system [or get a different tuner].


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

PS:  I strongly urge the List Lurkers to get a little chuckle out of the 
imperfect physics in the first graf and resist the urge to correct my 
rendition.  While I did, in 1959, manage to measure with pretty good 
accuracy the efficiency of a 10KW FM Class C PA using real physics very 
similar to my rendition above, I left out a lot in the tuner example.




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Re: [Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC isolator

2014-02-11 Thread Ian White
And here's another:

http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek/in-prac/best-of.htm#0904

Click on April 2009 to download the complete magazine article.



73 from Ian GM3SEK


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-
boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Svend Spanget
Sent: 11 February 2014 20:18
To: elecraft @ mailman . qth . net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC isolator

Here is an interesting article:
http://www.ad5x.com/images/Articles/BiasT3amp.pdf
Svend, OZ7UV

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-11 Thread George Thornton
This might be a stupid question, but here goes.

I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits on 
the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF antenna.  
If I put it up it is going to have to be pretty close to the Yagi.

I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on each channel, 
and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of overloading and 
frying the other receiver?


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Re: [Elecraft] JT modes alignment

2014-02-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jean-Marc,

As I indicated, RTTY FL1 should be set to the OP1 filter and copy the 
BFO setting from the LSB BFO.
Likewise copy the RTTY REV BFO setting from the SSB USB BFO and you 
should have the RTTY FL1 behave just like USB or LSB with the exception 
that there is an independent SSBC setting (look for SSBCr) in the menu - 
it should be set to no compression (1-1) for digital modes.


As far as I know, the ALC will be the same as for SSB, but one usually 
adds compression for SSB use which will make the ALC more aggressive.


As with all digital modes with the K2, adjust the audio level so you can 
see just one bar of ALC indication, then back the audio down until that 
indicator just goes off.  Adjust the desired power level with the POWER 
knob.  Yes, this is different than the 'conventional wisdom' you will 
see in instructions for other rigs that control power differently than 
the K2.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/11/2014 9:38 AM, F5LCI wrote:

Hi Don, and thank you for the fast reply (as usual!)
I can use the USB mode, decoding is OK, But the ALC is not optimized for
digital modes.

  My only problem: R and reverse R behave equally ; I thought that the
tones would be inverted...
I seriously wonder : Was I wrong with alignment with the reverse R mode
only ?
I had carefully aligned my filters ...many years ago, before JT65 appeared.
So I'll have to RTFM to remind the procedure.
Back to the book...

72, Jean-Marc, F5LCI


Le Tue, 11 Feb 2014 14:15:27 +0100, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com a
écrit:


Jean-Marc,

Yes, you will need to align those filters.
I normally set the FL1 position to OP1, FL2 to 1.00, FL3 to 0.70 and FL4
to 0.40 widths.
Then set the BFOs for FL1 to the same values as the SSB filters - RTTY
corresponds to LSB and RTTY REV corresponds to USB.  That filter will be
used for transmit in all cases and works well with a waterfall display
for normal receive.
Set the other filters to center on 1000 Hz.  Those can be used if a
strong interfering signal appears inside the passband of the OP1
filter.  Observe the LSB/USB relationship - the DAC numbers (and also
frequency) will be higher for RTTY REV.

If you have the KDSP2 option, also set those filters 2, 3, and 4 to
center at 1000 Hz to agree with the IF filter centers.

The use of Spectrogram is recommended when aligning the IF filters. You
can download a copy from my website www.w3fpr.com - look near the bottom
of the home page.  Instructions for the use of Spectrogram can be found
in the K2 Dial Calibration article.

73,
Don W3FPR



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[Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC Isolator

2014-02-11 Thread John Saxon
Many, many thanks for the fine comments and suggestions.  I am going with the 
MFJ-4712 which is the bias tee and the relay and switch...complete and 
ready-to-go.

Thanks again  73,
John
K5ENQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-11 Thread Barry LaZar

George,
That is a very good question. However, it is hard to quess. But, 
one thing going in your favor is that one antenna is horizontal and the 
other is vertical. This will minimize the amount of coupling between the 
two. If you can get some horizontal separation between the two, it just 
might be physically safe. If you get really good decoupling, it could be 
on the order of 30 db. that means that a 100 Watts will look like 100 mw 
to your receiver.


I actually do a variant of what you are asking here. I have a 
Carolina Windom and an 18' base tuned vertical. I know there must be 
some interaction, but so far nothing has smoked. I know better than to 
try this without really looking at it, but I didn't think and did it 
anyway. My antennas are about 15-20 apart horizontally and 15 feet 
vertically. Maybe I had better have a look at it myself. But, my guess 
is you'll be OK as long as you don't need to receive at the same time 
you are transmitting. You will overdrive your receiver and not hear 
anything during transmissions, but the 100 mw or less into the receiver 
should be physically safe. That part of the answer should be answered by 
Elecraft as to the maximum energy the receiver can tolerate.


73,
Barry
K3NDM



On 2/11/2014 6:36 PM, George Thornton wrote:

This might be a stupid question, but here goes.

I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits on 
the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF antenna.  
If I put it up it is going to have to be pretty close to the Yagi.

I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on each channel, 
and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of overloading and 
frying the other receiver?


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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-11 Thread Richard Solomon

I have a Pennant receiving antenna about 100' from my 160 Meter Antenna.
I put a scope on the Pennant coax and keyed the rig. At about 1 KW out, I
saw about 6 volts pk-pk.

I bought a Receiver protection device.

73, Dick, W1KSZ


On 2/11/2014 4:36 PM, George Thornton wrote:

This might be a stupid question, but here goes.

I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits on 
the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF antenna.  
If I put it up it is going to have to be pretty close to the Yagi.

I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on each channel, 
and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of overloading and 
frying the other receiver?


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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-11 Thread Bill Turner

ORIGINAL MESSAGE:  (may be snipped)

On 2/11/2014 3:36 PM, George Thornton wrote:

I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on each channel, 
and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of overloading and 
frying the other receiver?


REPLY:

The field around an antenna is very strong compared to the input of a 
receiver which is expecting a fraction of a microwatt. Not something to 
be messed with.


If you must do this I would recommend installing a relay to short out 
the non-transmitting antenna, and you should sequence it so it closes a 
few milliseconds before beginning TX and opens a few milliseconds after 
ceasing TX. Even better than simple shorting, use an SPDT relay so that 
when the relay activated, the antenna is disconnected and the receiver 
input is shorted to ground, separate from the antenna. This provides 
even more isolation between the two.




73, Bill W6WRT

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-11 Thread Monovasia
I would do it at all! Especially at power

Sent from my iPhone

 On Feb 11, 2014, at 7:16 PM, Bill Turner dezrat1...@wildblue.net wrote:
 
 ORIGINAL MESSAGE:  (may be snipped)
 
 On 2/11/2014 3:36 PM, George Thornton wrote:
 I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on each 
 channel, and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of 
 overloading and frying the other receiver?
 
 REPLY:
 
 The field around an antenna is very strong compared to the input of a 
 receiver which is expecting a fraction of a microwatt. Not something to be 
 messed with.
 
 If you must do this I would recommend installing a relay to short out the 
 non-transmitting antenna, and you should sequence it so it closes a few 
 milliseconds before beginning TX and opens a few milliseconds after ceasing 
 TX. Even better than simple shorting, use an SPDT relay so that when the 
 relay activated, the antenna is disconnected and the receiver input is 
 shorted to ground, separate from the antenna. This provides even more 
 isolation between the two.
 
 
 
 73, Bill W6WRT
 
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[Elecraft] Balanced feedline - DC Isolator

2014-02-11 Thread Dale Putnam
With a pair of KAT100s and a pair of K2s, I need to send 12v up the openline 
feeder to control a latching relay at the top of the tower. The easiest way 
would be to run the dc on the feedline.and it would be even easier.. if the 
isolator would stop the dc from continuing on through the antenna.. that is 
also a dc short, inone of its configurations. I can insert the dc in the 
shack.. with a coax T... but there isn't a coax place at the top of the 
tower.Thoughts or ideas?

Have a great day, 
 
 
--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
 
 


 Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:53:05 -0800
 From: johnbsa...@yahoo.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC Isolator
 
 Many, many thanks for the fine comments and suggestions.  I am going with the 
 MFJ-4712 which is the bias tee and the relay and switch...complete and 
 ready-to-go.
 
 Thanks again  73,
 John
 K5ENQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-11 Thread Phil Debbie Salas
Check out the front-end protector in the “Articles” section of my website at 
www.ad5x.com.

Phil – AD5X
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-11 Thread Fred Jensen

On 2/11/2014 3:36 PM, George Thornton wrote:

This might be a stupid question, but here goes.


Only unasked questions are stupid.


I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that
barely fits on the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical
as a second HF antenna.  If I put it up it is going to have to be
pretty close to the Yagi.


You will likely find that a vertical anything will be 1-2 S-units 
noisier than your horizontal yagi [or any other horizontal antenna, in 
general], *unless* you have essentially *no* man-made noise.  You said 
small lot which suggests an urban or suburban environment.  I have a 
tri-bander, a large sloping Vee for 160-30, and a GAP Titan vertical on 
the pipe that carries my coax up to the roof and to the other antennas. 
 I can almost always count on the GAP being a couple of S-units noiser 
than the other two on any of the bands they work on.


I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on
each channel, and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any
danger of overloading and frying the other receiver?


Antennas all have a near-field and a far-field and the definition of 
near and far depends on the operating frequency, among some other 
things.  The lower the frequency [longer wavelength], the farther far 
is from the antenna.  If a second antenna is located within the 
near-field of the first, they will become a coupled system ... the 
second antenna will behave as if it was an element or elements of the 
first antenna.  In this case, some fairly large amounts of RF power can 
show up at the end of the second antennas coax.  Obviously, it depends a 
huge amount on the power you intend to run.  5W may safe.


If the second antenna is clearly in the far-field of the first, the 
coupled power is much much lower.  The signal will be huge in the second 
receiver, but not likely to be damaging to components.


I'm on the crew that activates Alpine County in the Calif QSO Party [no 
permanent hams there].  First year we tried M/2, we had CW and SSB in 
one cabin.  Considering that the aggregate ham experience of the crew 
was well over 200 years, I can't explain why we did this. :-)


The 80 and 75 inverted Vee's were undoubtedly in each other's 
near-fields, not sure about the 40's, but we had bandpass filters for 
each rig.  I was on 80 CW in the middle of the night, the phone op 
decided to try 75 ... he switched the filters, I called CQ, and I fried 
the diodes in the front end of his K3.  We now have the two stations at 
opposite ends of the campground [maybe 500 meters?], and we have no 
problems.


So George, I'd be very careful.  The cross-polarization would be in your 
favor but if you're on 20 or below and close means less than a 
wavelength at best, it could mean problems.


Hope this helps

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-11 Thread Monovasia
NOT

Sent from my iPhone

 On Feb 11, 2014, at 7:20 PM, Monovasia pontia...@monovasia.com wrote:
 
 I would do it at all! Especially at power
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Feb 11, 2014, at 7:16 PM, Bill Turner dezrat1...@wildblue.net wrote:
 
 ORIGINAL MESSAGE:  (may be snipped)
 
 On 2/11/2014 3:36 PM, George Thornton wrote:
 I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on each 
 channel, and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of 
 overloading and frying the other receiver?
 
 REPLY:
 
 The field around an antenna is very strong compared to the input of a 
 receiver which is expecting a fraction of a microwatt. Not something to be 
 messed with.
 
 If you must do this I would recommend installing a relay to short out the 
 non-transmitting antenna, and you should sequence it so it closes a few 
 milliseconds before beginning TX and opens a few milliseconds after ceasing 
 TX. Even better than simple shorting, use an SPDT relay so that when the 
 relay activated, the antenna is disconnected and the receiver input is 
 shorted to ground, separate from the antenna. This provides even more 
 isolation between the two.
 
 
 
 73, Bill W6WRT
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced feedline - DC Isolator

2014-02-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dale,

While you could put a bias Tee in each side of the balanced line to make 
it work, you need to be aware of the impedance at the points in the 
feedline where the DC is taken off.  The isolating inductance should 
have 5 time (or greater) impedance at all frequencies of interest.


I assume you are running a multiband antenna, so it may be easier and 
simpler just to 'bite the bullet' and run separate wire for the relay 
control.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/11/2014 7:23 PM, Dale Putnam wrote:

With a pair of KAT100s and a pair of K2s, I need to send 12v up the openline feeder to 
control a latching relay at the top of the tower. The easiest way would be to run the dc 
on the feedline.and it would be even easier.. if the isolator would stop the dc from 
continuing on through the antenna.. that is also a dc short, inone of its configurations. 
I can insert the dc in the shack.. with a coax T... but there isn't a coax 
place at the top of the tower.Thoughts or ideas?




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[Elecraft] K2 Won't power on

2014-02-11 Thread JeremyJones
So my K2, which has been running great for almost a year, no longer powers
on.  I had left it powered on and connected via the serial cable to a
computer so that I could do PSK-31 contacts remotely while I was away from
home.  Unfortunately I never got the chance, and upon my return home, my K2
was no longer working (no lights or any indication of life).  I shut it off
for a couple of hours, and upon turning it back on, I got a loud buzz, then
everything shut down again.  There was no lightning or power outages while I
was gone, and unless the computer somehow put the radio into transmit, it
should only have been receiving.  Any ideas on where I should start to look
to trouble shoot this?  

Thanks for any help,
Jeremy
VA3ZTF



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Won't power on

2014-02-11 Thread Dale Putnam
Hi Jeremy,   That has the possibility of being the finals... where a bit of 
static, wind maybe? depending on the antenna connected, may have poked the 
finals too hard. A quick check would be to use an ohm meter, before 
replacement. 

Have a great day, 
 
 
--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
 
 


 Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 16:44:25 -0800
 From: jjones9...@gmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Won't power on
 
 So my K2, which has been running great for almost a year, no longer powers
 on.  I had left it powered on and connected via the serial cable to a
 computer so that I could do PSK-31 contacts remotely while I was away from
 home.  Unfortunately I never got the chance, and upon my return home, my K2
 was no longer working (no lights or any indication of life).  I shut it off
 for a couple of hours, and upon turning it back on, I got a loud buzz, then
 everything shut down again.  There was no lightning or power outages while I
 was gone, and unless the computer somehow put the radio into transmit, it
 should only have been receiving.  Any ideas on where I should start to look
 to trouble shoot this?  
 
 Thanks for any help,
 Jeremy
 VA3ZTF
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-11 Thread Mike K2MK
Hi George,

I'm not 100% sure but I don't think your SUB RX has to be ON to be damaged.
I believe that just connecting an antenna to the AUX RF input will allow RF
into the SUB RX. 

There is an internal protective device on the input to the SUB RX called a
carrier operated relay (COR). You can see it in the manual in some of the
block diagrams. When you get your vertical you can try transmitting with the
yagi at low power and gradually increase your power. If you hear a clicking
sound you are tripping the COR. That's your positive indication that you
should either decrease power or add external protection. 

There are devices available to put in your SUB RX antenna line for overload
protection but you can also use the KEY OUT signal to energize a relay to
disconnect your SUB RX antenna. There is also a lower current KEY OUT signal
on pin 10 of the accessory connector. You can use that to trip a low current
device that in turn activates a relay.

73,
Mike K2MK



George A. Thornton-2 wrote
 This might be a stupid question, but here goes.
 
 I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely
 fits on the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second
 HF antenna.  If I put it up it is going to have to be pretty close to the
 Yagi.
 
 I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on each
 channel, and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of
 overloading and frying the other receiver?





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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Won't power on

2014-02-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jeremy,

I can't recall a loud buzz condition, but I would suspect the PA 
transistors in the base K2.
First, check the resistance from the collectors of Q7 and Q8 to ground.  
If it is quite low, the PA transistors are toast - get the K2PAKIT and 
install Q7, Q8 as well as Q11 and Q13.


If the K2 will not power up, you could remove T3 (easier than removing 
Q7 and Q8) and see if it powers on.


The fact that it powers down usually indicates that too much current is 
being drawn - the resettable fuse in the K2 trips at 5 amps.


I would suggest removing T3 and then making some measurements.  Find out 
if the 8R and 8T signals are behaving properly as a first step. If 8T is 
present at the same time as 8R, that says the K2 is trying to transmit 
at the same time it is receiving.


Try isolating the DC to Q7 and Q8 (by removing T3) and then we can help 
you debug things after you get it to power up.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/11/2014 7:44 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

So my K2, which has been running great for almost a year, no longer powers
on.  I had left it powered on and connected via the serial cable to a
computer so that I could do PSK-31 contacts remotely while I was away from
home.  Unfortunately I never got the chance, and upon my return home, my K2
was no longer working (no lights or any indication of life).  I shut it off
for a couple of hours, and upon turning it back on, I got a loud buzz, then
everything shut down again.  There was no lightning or power outages while I
was gone, and unless the computer somehow put the radio into transmit, it
should only have been receiving.  Any ideas on where I should start to look
to trouble shoot this?

Thanks for any help,
Jeremy
VA3ZTF



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Won't power on

2014-02-11 Thread JeremyJones
Q7 and Q8 both read 12.3 ohms from collector to ground.  

The symptoms definitely resemble blown finals, as I experienced the same
thing when I was building the kit, including the over current tripping the
resettable fuse.  I just didn't expect that from a receive only condition.

Jeremy
VA3ZTF




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Won't power on

2014-02-11 Thread Dale Putnam
Depending on the antenna you are using Jeremy, it may be very very sensitive to 
static.IF your antenna has a dc (rf choke) to a good dc ground, that is also 
tied to the house power ground,the sensitivity will be lessened a lot. Without 
that.. a lightening strike 30 miles away can pop the finals... or a wind 
derived static, from a 25pmh breeze on a dipole. (voice of experience here) 
And.. I keep a complete set of the final replacement kit on hand all the time. 

Have a great day, 
 
 
--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
 
 


 Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 17:47:06 -0800
 From: jjones9...@gmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Won't power on
 
 Q7 and Q8 both read 12.3 ohms from collector to ground.  
 
 The symptoms definitely resemble blown finals, as I experienced the same
 thing when I was building the kit, including the over current tripping the
 resettable fuse.  I just didn't expect that from a receive only condition.
 
 Jeremy
 VA3ZTF
 
 
 
 
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Won-t-power-on-tp7584083p7584087.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Won't power on

2014-02-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jeremy,

OK, Q7 and Q8 are 'toast', you might as well remove them.

With Q7 and Q8 removed, do a TUNE and measure the DC voltage at the 
solder pads for the base of Q7 and Q8.  The expected voltage is 0.60 to 
0.64 volts.  If it is out of that range, replace Q11 and Q13 too.  Those 
transistors come included in the K2PAKIT.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/11/2014 8:47 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

Q7 and Q8 both read 12.3 ohms from collector to ground.

The symptoms definitely resemble blown finals, as I experienced the same
thing when I was building the kit, including the over current tripping the
resettable fuse.  I just didn't expect that from a receive only condition.

Jeremy
VA3ZTF



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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced feedline - DC Isolator

2014-02-11 Thread Mike WA8BXN
Hi Dale, 

You can't inject DC into a coax feedline that carries RF with a simple T
coax connector.You have to use a bias T circuit as has been recently
discussed. It sounds like you have some coax from the rig to I assume a
balun of some sort that connects to you balanced line. You should be able to
adapt the bias T concepts to send DC thru the coax from the rig end to just
before the balun using a pair of bias Ts. Then use the bias T concept on the
other side of the balun to send DC through the balanced feedlilne to just
before the antenna, isolating the DC from the antenna and isolating the
relay from the RF. 

73 - Mike WA8BXN 

 

 

 

 

---Original Message--- 

 

From: Dale Putnam 

Date: 2/11/2014 7:23:31 PM 

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 

Subject: [Elecraft] Balanced feedline - DC Isolator 

 

With a pair of KAT100s and a pair of K2s, I need to send 12v up the openline
feeder to control a latching relay at the top of the tower. The easiest way
would be to run the dc on the feedline.and it would be even easier.. if the
isolator would stop the dc from continuing on through the antenna.. that is
also a dc short, inone of its configurations. I can insert the dc in the
shack.. with a coax T... but there isn't a coax place at the top of the
tower.Thoughts or ideas? 

 

Have a great day, 

 

 

--... ...-- 

Dale - WC7S in Wy 

 

 

 

 

 Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:53:05 -0800 

 From: johnbsa...@yahoo.com 

 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 

 Subject: [Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC Isolator 

 

 Many, many thanks for the fine comments and suggestions. I am going with
the MFJ-4712 which is the bias tee and the relay and switch...complete and
ready-to-go. 

 

 Thanks again  73, 

 John 

 K5ENQ 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC Isolator

2014-02-11 Thread Dick Dickinson
Are there possible precautions to take when running DC through a remote
antenna (coax) switch that may go to ground when the power is off?

 

 

Dick - KA5KKT

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-11 Thread WILLIS COOKE
Since the K3 will do the QRP thing down to 100 mw, think about installing the 
vertical above the beam on the mast and gradually try more and more power out 
of the K3 until you start getting some overloading.  At least you can find your 
answer without frying anything and some folks find QRP lots of fun.  Maybe you 
will too!
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com
To: 'elecraft @ mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question
 

This might be a stupid question, but here goes.

I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits on 
the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF antenna.  
If I put it up it is going to have to be pretty close to the Yagi.

I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on each channel, 
and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of overloading and 
frying the other receiver?


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Won't power on

2014-02-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jeremy,

One afterthought -- although Q7 and Q8 are the top suspects for your 
problem, after removing them, check the resistance from the Q7/Q8 
collector solder pads to ground.  If it is still low, the problem is 
something other than Q7 and Q8.


73,
Don W3FPR

---

Jeremy,

OK, Q7 and Q8 are 'toast', you might as well remove them.

With Q7 and Q8 removed, do a TUNE and measure the DC voltage at the 
solder pads for the base of Q7 and Q8.  The expected voltage is 0.60 to 
0.64 volts.  If it is out of that range, replace Q11 and Q13 too.  Those 
transistors come included in the K2PAKIT.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/11/2014 8:47 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

Q7 and Q8 both read 12.3 ohms from collector to ground.

The symptoms definitely resemble blown finals, as I experienced the same
thing when I was building the kit, including the over current tripping the
resettable fuse.  I just didn't expect that from a receive only condition.

Jeremy
VA3ZTF



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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 AND PSK63

2014-02-11 Thread Igor Sokolov
I do not know how and why this thread turned into someting different but the 
original question was- is Elecraft going to do FW upgrade to add PSK63 to 
the mix of modes KX3 and K3 already have? PSK63 is getting very popular and 
I would be happy to have it coded and decoded by KX3 (and K3).


73, Igor UA9CDC 


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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 AND PSK63

2014-02-11 Thread Wayne Burdick
Yes, it's on the wish-list for both the K3 and KX3. 

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Feb 11, 2014, at 7:45 PM, Igor Sokolov ua9...@gmail.com wrote:

 I do not know how and why this thread turned into someting different but the 
 original question was- is Elecraft going to do FW upgrade to add PSK63 to the 
 mix of modes KX3 and K3 already have? PSK63 is getting very popular and I 
 would be happy to have it coded and decoded by KX3 (and K3).
 
 73, Igor UA9CDC 
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[Elecraft] OT - MFJ=1621

2014-02-11 Thread David Guernsey
Does anyone have any experience/comments on MFJ-1621 antenna in an apartment 
setting?
 
73 de Dave KJ6CBS
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-11 Thread Jim Brown

On 2/11/2014 3:36 PM, George Thornton wrote:

I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits on 
the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF antenna.


As it happens, over the past year or so I've been engaged in a serious 
modeling study that compares the performance of vertical and horizontal 
antennas at mounting heights that are practical for hams in your 
situation. So the real question is, what will that vertical add to your 
station beside a second antenna for SO2R?


If I were in your situation, I would add an antenna only to cover bands 
that the tri-bander does not. Even the best vertical is unlikely to 
outperform the tribander unless you happen to be blessed with REALLY 
good ground conductivity, and even then only by a dB or so at low 
elevation angles. Second, if I were to add a vertical, it would be one 
that is configured as a center-fed dipole, and I would add it ONLY if I 
could elevate it at least 20 ft.


Yes, I know this wasn't the question you asked, but it needs to be asked 
and answered. :)  Also, by all means pay attention to K6DGW's comments, 
with which I completely concur.


There's a link to a presentation I did last fall of the vertical height 
issue, and also one about the recently popular 43 ft vertical.

http://k9yc.com/publish.htm

I'm still working on the comparison of verticals to horizontal antennas 
-- I've done all the modeling and know the results, but haven't 
organized it to show yet. AD5X has also done some excellent work on the 
43 ft vertical idea. And QST recently published a piece showing that a 
better use of a 43 ft vertical might be as the center support for 
horizontal dipoles for 80 and 40, a concept with which I strongly agree. :)


73, Jim K9YC


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