Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No signal at TP1 during Alignment and Test Part 2

[Don Wilhelm]

Robert,

Do you have a good signal at TP3?  If so, ignore the PLL Reference 
oscillator and U4 for now.


You need to get the VFO operating before doing anything else.
Do the DC measurements a Q18.  If you do not have a negative voltage at 
the gate, it is not oscillating.


T5 is the most likely problem with the VFO.  Make certain it is wound 
correctly and the leads are well stripped and tinned.  If you see a ring 
around the lead (on the solder side), that lead was not adequately 
stripped and tinned.  Both windings must be wound in the same direction.


If all the above is correct, put a temporary jumper across C60 to 
disable the VFO ALC circuit.  If it oscillates with the jumper in place, 
but not without it, replace Q17.  If that still does not correct it, try 
replacing Q16.  Be certain D11 is oriented correctly.


Ignore the voltages on U4 pins 5, 6, and 7 - those are digital signals, 
and the manual lists the voltage for the active signal, not what you 
would typically measure with a DMM.  If you look at them with a 'scope 
you can see pulses on those lines, and that should be sufficient for 
proper operation.


RFC 15 also needs to be ignored until after you get the VFO operating. 
Once you get a VFO signal at TP1, then you can investigate the operation 
of U4.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/6/2017 9:47 PM, Robert Forster wrote:

Hello to the group!

I'm afraid I need to lean on your collective K2 troubleshooting expertise.
After a long break I have finally made it to the Alignment and Test Part 2
of my build.  Everything was going OK until I got to the VCO Test.  I have
no signal at TP1.  I have tested this with the built in counter as well as
an external counter.  I have gone through some of the troubleshooting I
could find online:

The orientation of D13 and D8 look good

I have checked the soldering at relays K13, K14 and K15 and the value of
C72.

I have checked the varactors at D21 through D26 and they are oriented
properly I am nearly certain they are all the correct type

I tested RFC15 in the circuit and could not get any continuity through it.
When I pulled it out of the circuit it tested fine so I put it back in.
I'm sure this is something basic I just dont understand.

I know there is some more testing I can do with Q17 and Q18 (I did check
that they are the right type and orientation I also check all the component
values around Q18) Lets set that aside for just a second though...

Here is where I think it gets a little weird.  Looking at the schematic I
followed it back to U4.  When I compared the voltage table to what i was
actually seeing on U4 I think I may have found my problem.  According to
the table pin 7 should have 0 Volts but i'm showing 4.8!  It also shows
that pin 13 should have 4 volts but I'm showing 0.  All other pins are
normal and match the chart.

Following Pin 7 of U4 back to Pin 1 of U5 I see the same 4.8 volts.
This is supposed to be a clock line so I'm confused where this sort of
voltage would be comming from.

I'm still new to alot of this and this is by far the most complex kit I've
taken on so any and all help will be appreciated!

Thanks and 73,
Robert
AD0TA




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[Elecraft] Can KPA500 Operate Remotely?

[k...@gmx.com]

Hi,  Can a KPA500 be operated remotely, for example, in a different room 
from the operator?
Specifically would such remote operations be possible via USB cable or 
additional hardware,

or even via IP using additional hardware on the amplifier side.
The need is to be able to switch remotely between standby and oper.  
Ultimately this might

allow both a flex radio and KPA500 to be separated from the operator.
Thanks very much,
Jack
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Re: [Elecraft] Can KPA500 Operate Remotely?

[Mike va3mw]

Yes

Many options 

You can use an rs232 cable connected to a rs232/USB adapter on your desk 
computer. 

You can do IP, but you'll need a computer at the amp end and the operator end 
and use a LAN in between. 

You can also do serial over ip to your computer at the operator end with a rpi 
running ser2net or a serial over ip interface box. 

I control mine from a hundred miles away. 

Mike va3mw

> On Jun 7, 2017, at 10:08 AM, "k...@gmx.com"  wrote:
> 
> Hi,  Can a KPA500 be operated remotely, for example, in a different room from 
> the operator?
> Specifically would such remote operations be possible via USB cable or 
> additional hardware,
> or even via IP using additional hardware on the amplifier side.
> The need is to be able to switch remotely between standby and oper.  
> Ultimately this might
> allow both a flex radio and KPA500 to be separated from the operator.
> Thanks very much,
> Jack
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[Elecraft] K3 Power on via Aux connector?

[Jim Miller]

Some experiments with Pin 8 (POWER ON) show that if it is asserted
(grounded per the Owner's Manual) it turns the K3 on just fine as expected.

However if it is negated the K3 remains on.

The Owner's Manual says it should remain asserted (grounded) until a PS0
command is sent before negating.

Has the behavior of Pin 8 been modified in the firmware to make a momentary
assertion sufficient?

BTW, once turned on via Pin 8, and even though Pin 8 remains asserted, a
front panel turn off via the Power button works to shut down the K3. That
reinforces the notion the Pin 8 is really activating the K3 via the leading
edge of the assertion only rather than the level of Pin 8.

Clarification?

73

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power on via Aux connector?

[Rick WA6NHC]

Momentary assertion is preferred.  While leaving it asserted (grounded) 
won't cause any particular issue, it won't allow the K3 to shut down 
(haven't tested this entirely).


I use a USB controlled relay, assertion about 100ms to power on the K3, 
remotely.


Rick wa6nhc/7


On 6/7/2017 8:36 AM, Jim Miller wrote:

Some experiments with Pin 8 (POWER ON) show that if it is asserted
(grounded per the Owner's Manual) it turns the K3 on just fine as expected.

However if it is negated the K3 remains on.

The Owner's Manual says it should remain asserted (grounded) until a PS0
command is sent before negating.

Has the behavior of Pin 8 been modified in the firmware to make a momentary
assertion sufficient?

BTW, once turned on via Pin 8, and even though Pin 8 remains asserted, a
front panel turn off via the Power button works to shut down the K3. That
reinforces the notion the Pin 8 is really activating the K3 via the leading
edge of the assertion only rather than the level of Pin 8.

Clarification?

73

jim ab3cv
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[Elecraft] KX3/P3 external power source

[Matthew MacRoberts]

I need to work up a reliable external power source for my KX3 and P3. I also 
have RC aircraft and cars… So a LiPo or LiFe battery is an easy solution for 
me. 

The battery would offer substantial weight savings and I already have the 
chargers and other equipment necessary to build the connections.

Is there anything that I need to be aware of? Would a 4S 14.8V 5200mAh 50C be 
workable?

What other advice would you have?

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3/P3 external power source

[Matt Zilmer]

FWIW, I'm using a Turnigy 7.2AN, 4S LiPo for the KX3 and KX2.  Works 
fine, though at full charge it's a little high on the voltage.


73,

matt W6NIA


On 6/7/2017 10:29 AM, Matthew MacRoberts wrote:

I need to work up a reliable external power source for my KX3 and P3. I also 
have RC aircraft and cars… So a LiPo or LiFe battery is an easy solution for me.

The battery would offer substantial weight savings and I already have the 
chargers and other equipment necessary to build the connections.

Is there anything that I need to be aware of? Would a 4S 14.8V 5200mAh 50C be 
workable?

What other advice would you have?

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--
"A delay is better than a disaster."
-- unknown

Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
[Shiraz]

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3/P3 external power source

[Bob N3MNT]

Most people use the 4S LiFe vs LiPo as the fully charged voltage is closer to
the KX3 requirements.  A quick search for LiFe will show many discussions.
As you use these for your RC stuff, you know the requirements and cautions
so you should be good to go.



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[Elecraft] K2 - No Menu

[Ed - ad7gr]

When I tap the [MENU] button on my K2 nothing happens, the menu is not 
accessed and the display continues to show the frequency.   All other 
buttons work correctly.   Tapping [MENU] brought up the menu this 
morning but not now.   Just before this issue I had pressed [TUNE] 
thinking that I still had the ATU enabled, but it was not and I had to 
turn the rig off to get the k2 to return to RX.

Has anyone had this happen?   Any solutions?   Any ideas?
73,
Ed - ad7gr

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3/P3 external power source

[Matthew MacRoberts]

Are there any internal resistance or c-ratings that I should be aware of? (Like 
there are on RC vehicles)

Are Ham’s using any kind of low voltage cutoff with their batteries?

Internal Resistance and C-Rating


> On Jun 7, 2017, at 2:23 PM, Bob N3MNT  wrote:
> 
> Most people use the 4S LiFe vs LiPo as the fully charged voltage is closer to
> the KX3 requirements.  A quick search for LiFe will show many discussions.
> As you use these for your RC stuff, you know the requirements and cautions
> so you should be good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-P3-external-power-source-tp7631473p7631475.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3/P3 external power source

[Bob N3MNT]

I don't think you have to worry about "C-rating" running a KX3.  You are not
drawing 20-80A, but  more like 2-3A.  As for low voltage cut off, you can
set that in radio or use an external power /voltage meter to monitor it.  



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[Elecraft] Fwd: Can KPA500 Operate Remotely?

[a45wg]

Jacl,
I have just knocked up a web based KPA Control program.

I need about another 5-7 days to document and to test, and then I can 
post how too.

You would need 

a)  Remote Shack
b)  KPA 500 in remote shack
c)  Network connection with a public IP Address to remote shack
d)  Small PC/Raspberry/Laptop etc
e)  Python 3 Ecosystem


I already do this for my rotator, so using an iPad standing on the roof I can 
control my antenna, which has saved countless trips up and down the stairs. 
Same principle for the KPA. 

I have the full Elecraft command set for the KPA 500 available as a web page.

If you are interested please drop me a PM… and I will link you to my web-page 
which details how this can be accomplished.

Regards

Tim, A45WG


> Begin forwarded message:
> 
> From: Mike va3mw 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Can KPA500 Operate Remotely?
> Date: June 7, 2017 at 7:35:23 PM GMT+4
> To: "k...@gmx.com" , "Charles R. Tropp via Elecraft" 
> 
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> Yes
> 
> Many options 
> 
> You can use an rs232 cable connected to a rs232/USB adapter on your desk 
> computer. 
> 
> You can do IP, but you'll need a computer at the amp end and the operator end 
> and use a LAN in between. 
> 
> You can also do serial over ip to your computer at the operator end with a 
> rpi running ser2net or a serial over ip interface box. 
> 
> I control mine from a hundred miles away. 
> 
> Mike va3mw
> 
>> On Jun 7, 2017, at 10:08 AM, "k...@gmx.com " 
>> mailto:k...@gmx.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi,  Can a KPA500 be operated remotely, for example, in a different room 
>> from the operator?
>> Specifically would such remote operations be possible via USB cable or 
>> additional hardware,
>> or even via IP using additional hardware on the amplifier side.
>> The need is to be able to switch remotely between standby and oper.  
>> Ultimately this might
>> allow both a flex radio and KPA500 to be separated from the operator.
>> Thanks very much,
>> Jack
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3/P3 external power source

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

I think a low voltage cutoff (or at least an alarm) with LiFe is a good idea, 
especially if you have other devices besides the radio directly connected to 
the battery, like a KX3, other 12v or USB-powered thingies, etc..  I currently 
use a Buddipole PowerMini which is a compact battery monitor, low voltage 
alarm/cutoff, and solar charge controller all in one.  There are other options 
out there, of course.


> On Jun 7, 2017, at 2:40 PM, Bob N3MNT  wrote:
> 
> I don't think you have to worry about "C-rating" running a KX3.  You are not
> drawing 20-80A, but  more like 2-3A.  As for low voltage cut off, you can
> set that in radio or use an external power /voltage meter to monitor it.  
> 

Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - No Menu - SOLVED -

[Ed - ad7gr]

Solved...
When I unplugged my straight key I was able to access the [MENU] again. 
  The key had a 'mono' cable and plug attached and when I traded that 
out for a 'stereo' cord and plug the K2 operates as it should.   It 
appears that the 'mono' cable and plug was the cause of the issue.

73,
Ed - ad7gr
skcc #30
fists #12244

On 6/7/2017 11:14 AM, Ed - ad7gr wrote:
When I tap the [MENU] button on my K2 nothing happens, the menu is not 
accessed and the display continues to show the frequency.   All other 
buttons work correctly.   Tapping [MENU] brought up the menu this 
morning but not now.   Just before this issue I had pressed [TUNE] 
thinking that I still had the ATU enabled, but it was not and I had to 
turn the rig off to get the k2 to return to RX.

Has anyone had this happen?   Any solutions?   Any ideas?
73,
Ed - ad7gr


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - No Menu

[Don Wilhelm]

Ed,

Is this an older K2, or has it not been used in some time?  If so, it is 
probably the pushbutton.
The MENU button normally does not get a lot of use, so it is one of the 
ones that show a problem.
It can often be restored by tapping the button many many times, although 
replacing the pushbutton may be quicker and easier.  The wiping action 
of the switch contacts will remove any oxidation that has formed.


If you do replace the pushbutton, you will find the leads are difficult 
to unsolder - I even have trouble removing them intact with my Hakko 
808.  Cut the leads close to the switch body with small flush cutters 
and remove the remaining leads one at a time.
Clean up with solder wick and if solder remains in the hole, push it out 
with a wooden toothpick.
If you saved the "Switch Spacing Tool" from your K2 build use it to 
space the switch body above the board.  You can substitute a narrow 
length of PC board material.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/7/2017 2:14 PM, Ed - ad7gr wrote:
When I tap the [MENU] button on my K2 nothing happens, the menu is not 
accessed and the display continues to show the frequency.   All other 
buttons work correctly.   Tapping [MENU] brought up the menu this 
morning but not now.   Just before this issue I had pressed [TUNE] 
thinking that I still had the ATU enabled, but it was not and I had to 
turn the rig off to get the k2 to return to RX.

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Re: [Elecraft] Can KPA500 Operate Remotely?

[Barry Baines]

Jack:

One potential solution is to use the Remote Rig RC-1216H to control the KPA500 
via a web page.  See:

http://www.remoterig.com/wp/?page_id=1010#tabs-3 



These are available through Ham Radio Outlet in the US. I’m using two of the 
devices to remotely control my KPA-500 as well as my Orion rotor through a 
Green Heron RT-21 controller where the ham shack is in Georgia and I’m in MA or 
TX.

The key advantages are:

-Web-based, so any device (iPhone, iPad, Mac, Windows PC, etc.) can be used to 
control them from wherever I am.
-Display is a rendition of the KPA-500 front panel, providing complete control 
as if you’re sitting in front of the amplifier.
-No need for a PC, Arduino or Raspberry Pi to be running 24/7 at the shack, 
improving remote reliability as these devices may require an occasional reboot
-Easy to configure 
-Can be managed by the router for static addressing and UDP Port for port 
forwarding (essential for remote access)
-Highly reliable— I’ve never lost a connection due to a RC-1216H “hiccup” in 
the past 18 months.  

As these are Ethernet devices, you can run a Ethernet Cat5 connection directly 
to area of the amplifier and plug in the RC-1216H, or put in a Wireless Access 
Point at the amplifier location and plug the RC-1216H to connect to your Local 
Area Network (LAN) through WiFi.  This approach eliminates the need for control 
wiring between your operating position and the amplifier, but it does introduce 
a potential failure point if the WiFi goes down. 

This is not necessarily an inexpensive solution, but I’ve found this this 
approach to be highly reliable and works well with low speed DSL access (e.g.  
768 Kilobaud upload/6 MB download service) from a rural ISP that services my 
ham site.  


FWIW,

Barry Baines, WD4ASW
(Currently in West Roxbury, MA)




> On Jun 7, 2017, at 10:08 AM, k...@gmx.com wrote:
> 
> Hi,  Can a KPA500 be operated remotely, for example, in a different room from 
> the operator?
> Specifically would such remote operations be possible via USB cable or 
> additional hardware,
> or even via IP using additional hardware on the amplifier side.
> The need is to be able to switch remotely between standby and oper.  
> Ultimately this might
> allow both a flex radio and KPA500 to be separated from the operator.
> Thanks very much,
> Jack
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - No Menu - SOLVED -

[Don Wilhelm]

Ed,

OK, you can ignore my prior post.
Yes, a mono plug will put the K2 into transmit.  It does not allow many 
buttons to work when in transmit.  I hope you had a load connected to it!


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/7/2017 4:37 PM, Ed - ad7gr wrote:

Solved...
When I unplugged my straight key I was able to access the [MENU] again. 
   The key had a 'mono' cable and plug attached and when I traded that 
out for a 'stereo' cord and plug the K2 operates as it should.   It 
appears that the 'mono' cable and plug was the cause of the issue.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3/P3 external power source

[Fred Jensen]

LiPoly or LiFePO4 are both good, the LiFe seems to be a somewhat more 
stable and forgiving chemistry.  I use a4S1P LiFePO4 with my K2.  It has 
a very flat discharge curveuntil the end and then it drops rapidly, the 
K2 shuts down and the battery is protected from complete discharge.  I 
can get about 93% of the energy before the K2 shuts down.  You really 
want a cell balancing charger, but it sounds like you may already have one.


LiPoly's are lighter of course, but I had one catch fire while I was on 
my KX1 so I'm a bit wary of them.  The LiFe is not that much heavier.


Beware of "hot deals" on Li batteries. I bought an allegedly 9 Ah Li-ion 
batterywhich came from you know where.  It had a linear discharge curve 
with a slope of about 1 and the K2 shut down after I'd used around 1.4 
Ah of the stored energy. All the rest was inaccessible by my K2.


73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 6/7/2017 10:29 AM, Matthew MacRoberts wrote:

I need to work up a reliable external power source for my KX3 and P3. I also 
have RC aircraft and cars… So a LiPo or LiFe battery is an easy solution for me.

The battery would offer substantial weight savings and I already have the 
chargers and other equipment necessary to build the connections.

Is there anything that I need to be aware of? Would a 4S 14.8V 5200mAh 50C be 
workable?

What other advice would you have?



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