Re: [Elecraft] Aviation noise reduction headset for K3?
Yes, aviation headsets use different size connectors for the mic and phones. I believe the headphone use a standard 1/4" and the mic is a .206" (5.25mm) plug. I made an adapter to use my aviation headset on the K3 but got reports of garbled audio (probably RF getting into the cable or my adapter). I did get good results using the noise canceling headset for RX and a boom mic for TX. Mike - KI0HA On 6/14/2018 21:28, ron hess wrote: Am setting up a newly acquired used K3 which came with no microphone. Is it possible to use an adapter to make a Lightspeed Zulu noise cancelling headset work for the K3. I got very nice reception using the cell phone attachment line but can't identify any microphone function. The two main lines are different sizes, per standard aviation usage. 73 and thanks, (Jay) Ron K3OLN __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to mtebe...@mchsi.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station
I just bought the house I'm living in last year. While changing out some of the receptacles and switches I discovered that they did not use wire nuts for wire connections in the wall boxes. They had attempted to solder the wires and wrapped them in tape. Most, if not all of them were cold solder joints and several inches of the wire insulation had melted during the heating process. Apparently the codes are not as strict outside of the city limits. Mike - KI0HA On 6/14/2018 15:43, Don Wilhelm wrote: Bob and all, Yes, those "backstab" receptacles that electricians love to use because they are quick and easy do not have adequate contact stength and can overheat and cause voltage drops and a fire hazard. If I were to discover them in any house I occupied, I would pull the wires out of the 'backstab' and put the wires under the screws. There is nothing wrong with the receptacles, except for that marginal wire contact in the 'backstab' contacts - change those to "under the screw" connections and all will be well. There are good 'strip and insert' receptacles use a clamping mechanism tightened with a screw, and those do not have the problem. My house is wired with #12 wire for ALL the receptacles, (lighting is #14) but I do use the 15 amp receptacles with no problem (except in the kitchen where they are 20 amp) - the 15 amp receptacles will not accept #12 wire in the 'backstab' holes, so the only choice was to use the screw terminals. I have 20 amp breakers on the receptacle circuits, but 15 amp on the lighting. Yes, I did it myself and the inspector had no problem with my wiring. 73, Don W3FPR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience
Since it is meant for public consumption, maybe Wayne won't mind that I reproduce this, that Wes also cited (from the Elecraft website), written by Wayne, N6KR: Maybe we can agree that Wayne and Elecraft ought to know. And so end of thread. --- What "Roofing Filter" means to Elecraft There's been so much discussion about this topic that I'd thought I'd better try to clarify why we used the term when discussing the K3S. A "Roofing filter" is simply a filter in the radio's first IF through which all signals must pass before they will be "seen" by later receiver stages. The narrower this filter is, the less exposure later stages will have. Thus a "narrow" roofing filter is desirable -- but "narrow" is relative, as I'll explain. The term "roofing filter" has most often been used in relation to triple- or quadruple-conversion receivers. Such receivers have an IF above the highest RF band covered; it's typically something in the range of 30 to 70 MHz or higher. But "roofing" as a term should be interpreted as "protective," not "high in frequency." A roofing filter protects later stages, including amplifiers, mixers, narrower filters, and DSP subsystems, just as the roof on your house keeps rain out of all of the rooms. But a roofing filter can be equally at home at a low first IF, if that is how the radio is designed. It still provides the same protective function. When we released the K2 in 1999, we never described our 1st IF crystal filters as roofing filters. We had only one IF, so the receiver model was simpler; there were no narrow filters at later stages that required protection. But now, we find that the term is in widespread use. Average hams now think of roofing filter bandwidths as the standard of comparison between receivers. This is why manufacturers have jumped through hoops to try to provide the narrowest possible roofing filters. Many operators have an understanding (justified) that a roofing filter that is wider than the communications bandwidth will not best protect the receiver's later stages. So the term now seems appropriate to use even in a radio such as the K2, K3S, or Orion, all of which use low-frequency IFs (5 to 9 MHz). In recent years, the roofing filter has become the centerpiece of receiver redesign: Suppose that manufacturer "A" initially designed their receiver to use a 15- or 20-kHz roofing filter. Yes, this allows the receiver to handle NBFM and other wide modulation modes; it may also be selected to constrain the signal bandwidth ahead of a noise blanker or spectrum scope. But it comes at a price. If you're using CW mode, you'll have much narrower filters selected at the radio's 2nd and 3rd IFs. Yet the 1st IF roofing filter allows a broad swath of signals into the earlier stages. You don't need this energy in your passband. It can cause trouble. Manufacturer "A," realizing they have a problem with dynamic range at close spacing, then announces that they've had a breakthrough: they can now offer a 6-kHz, or more recently 3-kHz roofing filter. This will certainly improve the situation for SSB and AM operation, but it still opens the barn door in CW or DATA modes, because the bandwidth is a factor of 10 wider than needed for communications. So why don't they offer much narrower roofing filters that can be switched in for CW and data modes, or at times when adjacent-channel SSB QRM is very high? It's because they can't make filters any narrower at such a high IF. Enter the "down-conversion" rig (K2, K3S, Orion, etc.). By converting to a low first IF, the designer can easily create narrow filters that are compatible with the required communications bandwidth. This is why we are offering filters with bandwidths as low as 200 Hz. And yes, these are still "roofing" filters, because they limit exposure (bandwidth), thus protecting later stages (in the K3S case, the IF amp, 2nd mixer, and DSP). 73, Wayne N6KR CWops #1085 CWA Advisor levels II and III http://cwops.org/ On Thu, 6/14/18, K9MA wrote: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Thursday, June 14, 2018, 8:28 PM There are at least two excellent reasons for the narrow crystal filters in the first IF of the K3(s). (Wayne can correct me if I'm wrong.) One, of course, is to reject the image of the second IF. However, the dynamic range of the ADC in the second IF, by itself, just isn't enough to provide the 140 or so dB we need. The combination of the ADC/DSP and the crystal filter does the trick, even though 8 MHz crystal filters aren't all that great. As I recall, there were some earlier DSP only receivers, but their dynamic range was poor. Crystal filters are expensive, but until we have fast ADC's linear to at least 24 bits, they're necessary to get that kind of dynamic range. I've often wondered if any
Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience
Okay, I'll give up, we'll just have to agree to disagree. On 6/14/2018 6:33 PM, WILLIE BABER wrote: Wes, "A "Roofing filter" is simply a filter in the radio's first IF through which all signals must pass before they will be "seen" by later receiver stages. The narrower this filter is, the less exposure later stages will have. Thus a "narrow" roofing filter is desirable -- but "narrow" is relative, as I'll explain." What Elecraft said (above) is exactly what I said. Moreover, Elecraft's explanation is required because the term roofing filter is now applied to up-conversion in multiple conversion radios (with relatively wide first I-F filters compared to what is achievable at a low first I-F) which is what the term initially sought to rebuff in the first place, also my point. 73, Will, wj9b CWops #1085 CWA Advisor levels II and III http://cwops.org/ On Thu, 6/14/18, Wes Stewart wrote: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Thursday, June 14, 2018, 4:47 PM Will, First of all I have said before and will repeat it, I detest the term "roofing filter." That said, by the generally accepted definition, you are wrong. See Elecraft's take on this: http://www.elecraft.com/K3/Roofing_Filters.htm If you will think in Wayne's terms, the post-mixer filter is a "protective" filter, not a mode-specific filter. So the question becomes, how much protection is necessary? In Elecraft's case, quite a lot, IMHO. With its QRP DNA, Elecraft uses post crystal filter circuitry that minimizes current consumption. The trade off for this is the need for a bank of pricey crystal filters to limit the frequencies that the circuitry is exposed to. Now what if the subsequent circuitry doesn't require this much protection because it is more robust? We now have direct-sampling radios that can digitize a whole ham band with good performance. If the BW was limited to 10-15 kHz in an up conversion configuration they should be even better. The limitation now becomes LO phase noise, but newer synthesizer designs overcome that obstacle. Another thing to note is that IMD in crystal filters is reported to be inversely proportional to BW. So a wider filter might actually be better from that perspective. Some Elecraft filters exhibit passive IMD BTW. Wes N7WS On 6/14/2018 8:01 AM, WILLIE BABER wrote: > Hello Wes, > > I took a look. Both designs are using the idea of "roofing filter" to refer to up-conversion radios similar to the use of up-conversion 3khz filters as roofing filters in Icom radios. > > "Roofing filter" (a mode specific filter after the first mixer including narrow cw filters) only makes sense in the context of the history of superhet design and in particular the use of one broad 15 khz first I-F (so that all modes may pass through it) typical of all Japanese radios until recently. Calling a 45 mhz filter at the first I-F a "roofing filter" as noted in the info you sent entirely misses the point of what roofing filter means. Or, to put it another way, all Ten-Tec radios had roofing filters in them (and were ssb and cw only) well before the term roofing filter was coined! Which is why an Omni C will out perform any wide (15 khz) first I-F Japanese radio, even those built well after the 1980 vintage Omni C. > > Unless mode specific up-conversion crystal filters can be made and as narrow as 200 hz (this is possible with down-conversion) then "roofing filter" and up conversion doesn't make sense historically or in reality. > > Actually, Icom says that did it with 1.2khz filter at 64 mhz in the Icom 7851, though I'm not convinced the filter is that narrow, and 1.2khz is far from the 200hz filter that my K3 has in it (however, the placement of this filter is why the 7851 is among the best radios in Sherwood's chart, on cw). > > It is possible to make very narrow and precise crystal filters as narrow as the 200 hz inexpensively, and this is the point of having multiple roofing filters at the first I-F. So, this is the origin of the term roofing filter---in comparison to the barn-door up conversion first I-F. > > 73, Will, wj9b > > CWops #1085 > CWA Advisor levels II and III > http://cwops.org/ > > > On Wed, 6/13/18, Wes Stewart wrote: > > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience > To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Date: Wednesday, June 13, 2018, 3:08 PM > > Certainly not to disparage the > K3(S) architecture (I have two of them) there is > nothing inherently wrong with an up-conversion > receiver, if modern hardware is used. > > See:https://martein.home.xs4all.nl/pa3ake/hmode/g3sbi_intro.html > > and my f
Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience
There are at least two excellent reasons for the narrow crystal filters in the first IF of the K3(s). (Wayne can correct me if I'm wrong.) One, of course, is to reject the image of the second IF. However, the dynamic range of the ADC in the second IF, by itself, just isn't enough to provide the 140 or so dB we need. The combination of the ADC/DSP and the crystal filter does the trick, even though 8 MHz crystal filters aren't all that great. As I recall, there were some earlier DSP only receivers, but their dynamic range was poor. Crystal filters are expensive, but until we have fast ADC's linear to at least 24 bits, they're necessary to get that kind of dynamic range. I've often wondered if any other communication system requires the close in dynamic range we do. Why would anyone design a system that allowed signals 2 kHz apart to differ in strength by 140 dB? 73, Scott K9MA On 6/14/2018 20:33, WILLIE BABER wrote: Wes, "A "Roofing filter" is simply a filter in the radio's first IF through which all signals must pass before they will be "seen" by later receiver stages. The narrower this filter is, the less exposure later stages will have. Thus a "narrow" roofing filter is desirable -- but "narrow" is relative, as I'll explain." What Elecraft said (above) is exactly what I said. Moreover, Elecraft's explanation is required because the term roofing filter is now applied to up-conversion in multiple conversion radios (with relatively wide first I-F filters compared to what is achievable at a low first I-F) which is what the term initially sought to rebuff in the first place, also my point. 73, Will, wj9b CWops #1085 CWA Advisor levels II and III http://cwops.org/ On Thu, 6/14/18, Wes Stewart wrote: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Thursday, June 14, 2018, 4:47 PM Will, First of all I have said before and will repeat it, I detest the term "roofing filter." That said, by the generally accepted definition, you are wrong. See Elecraft's take on this: http://www.elecraft.com/K3/Roofing_Filters.htm If you will think in Wayne's terms, the post-mixer filter is a "protective" filter, not a mode-specific filter. So the question becomes, how much protection is necessary? In Elecraft's case, quite a lot, IMHO. With its QRP DNA, Elecraft uses post crystal filter circuitry that minimizes current consumption. The trade off for this is the need for a bank of pricey crystal filters to limit the frequencies that the circuitry is exposed to. Now what if the subsequent circuitry doesn't require this much protection because it is more robust? We now have direct-sampling radios that can digitize a whole ham band with good performance. If the BW was limited to 10-15 kHz in an up conversion configuration they should be even better. The limitation now becomes LO phase noise, but newer synthesizer designs overcome that obstacle. Another thing to note is that IMD in crystal filters is reported to be inversely proportional to BW. So a wider filter might actually be better from that perspective. Some Elecraft filters exhibit passive IMD BTW. Wes N7WS On 6/14/2018 8:01 AM, WILLIE BABER wrote: > Hello Wes, > > I took a look. Both designs are using the idea of "roofing filter" to refer to up-conversion radios similar to the use of up-conversion 3khz filters as roofing filters in Icom radios. > > "Roofing filter" (a mode specific filter after the first mixer including narrow cw filters) only makes sense in the context of the history of superhet design and in particular the use of one broad 15 khz first I-F (so that all modes may pass through it) typical of all Japanese radios until recently. Calling a 45 mhz filter at the first I-F a "roofing filter" as noted in the info you sent entirely misses the point of what roofing filter means. Or, to put it another way, all Ten-Tec radios had roofing filters in them (and were ssb and cw only) well before the term roofing filter was coined! Which is why an Omni C will out perform any wide (15 khz) first I-F Japanese radio, even those built well after the 1980 vintage Omni C. > > Unless mode specific up-conversion crystal filters can be made and as narrow as 200 hz (this is possible with down-conversion) then "roofing filter" and up conversion doesn't make sense historically or in reality. > > Actually, Icom says that did it with 1.2khz filter at 64 mhz in the Icom 7851, though I'm not convinced the filter is that narrow, and 1.2khz is far from the 200hz filter that my K3 has in it (however, the placement of this filter is why the 7851 is among the best radios in Sherwood's chart, on cw). > > It is possible to make very narrow and precise crystal filters as narrow as
[Elecraft] Aviation noise reduction headset for K3?
Am setting up a newly acquired used K3 which came with no microphone. Is it possible to use an adapter to make a Lightspeed Zulu noise cancelling headset work for the K3. I got very nice reception using the cell phone attachment line but can't identify any microphone function. The two main lines are different sizes, per standard aviation usage. 73 and thanks, (Jay) Ron K3OLN __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience
Wes, "A "Roofing filter" is simply a filter in the radio's first IF through which all signals must pass before they will be "seen" by later receiver stages. The narrower this filter is, the less exposure later stages will have. Thus a "narrow" roofing filter is desirable -- but "narrow" is relative, as I'll explain." What Elecraft said (above) is exactly what I said. Moreover, Elecraft's explanation is required because the term roofing filter is now applied to up-conversion in multiple conversion radios (with relatively wide first I-F filters compared to what is achievable at a low first I-F) which is what the term initially sought to rebuff in the first place, also my point. 73, Will, wj9b CWops #1085 CWA Advisor levels II and III http://cwops.org/ On Thu, 6/14/18, Wes Stewart wrote: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Thursday, June 14, 2018, 4:47 PM Will, First of all I have said before and will repeat it, I detest the term "roofing filter." That said, by the generally accepted definition, you are wrong. See Elecraft's take on this: http://www.elecraft.com/K3/Roofing_Filters.htm If you will think in Wayne's terms, the post-mixer filter is a "protective" filter, not a mode-specific filter. So the question becomes, how much protection is necessary? In Elecraft's case, quite a lot, IMHO. With its QRP DNA, Elecraft uses post crystal filter circuitry that minimizes current consumption. The trade off for this is the need for a bank of pricey crystal filters to limit the frequencies that the circuitry is exposed to. Now what if the subsequent circuitry doesn't require this much protection because it is more robust? We now have direct-sampling radios that can digitize a whole ham band with good performance. If the BW was limited to 10-15 kHz in an up conversion configuration they should be even better. The limitation now becomes LO phase noise, but newer synthesizer designs overcome that obstacle. Another thing to note is that IMD in crystal filters is reported to be inversely proportional to BW. So a wider filter might actually be better from that perspective. Some Elecraft filters exhibit passive IMD BTW. Wes N7WS On 6/14/2018 8:01 AM, WILLIE BABER wrote: > Hello Wes, > > I took a look. Both designs are using the idea of "roofing filter" to refer to up-conversion radios similar to the use of up-conversion 3khz filters as roofing filters in Icom radios. > > "Roofing filter" (a mode specific filter after the first mixer including narrow cw filters) only makes sense in the context of the history of superhet design and in particular the use of one broad 15 khz first I-F (so that all modes may pass through it) typical of all Japanese radios until recently. Calling a 45 mhz filter at the first I-F a "roofing filter" as noted in the info you sent entirely misses the point of what roofing filter means. Or, to put it another way, all Ten-Tec radios had roofing filters in them (and were ssb and cw only) well before the term roofing filter was coined! Which is why an Omni C will out perform any wide (15 khz) first I-F Japanese radio, even those built well after the 1980 vintage Omni C. > > Unless mode specific up-conversion crystal filters can be made and as narrow as 200 hz (this is possible with down-conversion) then "roofing filter" and up conversion doesn't make sense historically or in reality. > > Actually, Icom says that did it with 1.2khz filter at 64 mhz in the Icom 7851, though I'm not convinced the filter is that narrow, and 1.2khz is far from the 200hz filter that my K3 has in it (however, the placement of this filter is why the 7851 is among the best radios in Sherwood's chart, on cw). > > It is possible to make very narrow and precise crystal filters as narrow as the 200 hz inexpensively, and this is the point of having multiple roofing filters at the first I-F. So, this is the origin of the term roofing filter---in comparison to the barn-door up conversion first I-F. > > 73, Will, wj9b > > CWops #1085 > CWA Advisor levels II and III > http://cwops.org/ > > > On Wed, 6/13/18, Wes Stewart wrote: > > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience > To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Date: Wednesday, June 13, 2018, 3:08 PM > > Certainly not to disparage the > K3(S) architecture (I have two of them) there is > nothing inherently wrong with an up-conversion > receiver, if modern hardware is used. > > See:https://martein.home.xs4all.nl/pa3ake/hmode/g3sbi_intro.html > > and my friend Cornell's, > Star-10 transceiver. > >https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/eb33/5c12858779a653d9b9b93ca20120aebb7616.pdf > > Wes N7WS > > > On 6/13/2018 11:38 AM, WILLIE B
Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station
With that, lets end the thread. 73 Eric /Moderator etc. elecraft.com/ On 6/14/2018 11:30 AM, Rose wrote: Well said, Rick! 73! Ken - K0PP On Thu, Jun 14, 2018, 12:09 Rick WA6NHC wrote: As a retired career firefighter (line Captain), I say: A POX on the push in connections. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station
>those "backstab" receptacles that electricians love to use because they are quick and easy do not have adequate contact stength and can overheat and cause voltage drops and a fire hazard. Here's a weird one: Two years ago, I bought a house that had been built in 1980, by the folks that I bought it from. No intermediate owners. Wired with copper wire (not aluminum). I'm replacing many of the AC receptacles because they are so loose that a plug falls right out of them. I've never seen that before. My previous house was built in 1970, and never had that receptacle problem, or in any other house I've ever lived in. Maybe a bunch of cheapy ones? VE7XF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station
Totally agree, Don. The receptacles you refer to are extremely secure ... even better than the ones where you have to wrap the wire around the screw because if you aren't careful the wire can squeeze out from under the screw (don't ask me how I know that). The ones you mention also have the benefit of the wire entering the body from the back just like the push wire version. They simply are tough to beat, and they are only a couple of dollars more expensive than the really cheap ones. 73, Dave AB7E On 6/14/2018 1:43 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: There are good 'strip and insert' receptacles use a clamping mechanism tightened with a screw, and those do not have the problem. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience
Will, First of all I have said before and will repeat it, I detest the term "roofing filter." That said, by the generally accepted definition, you are wrong. See Elecraft's take on this: http://www.elecraft.com/K3/Roofing_Filters.htm If you will think in Wayne's terms, the post-mixer filter is a "protective" filter, not a mode-specific filter. So the question becomes, how much protection is necessary? In Elecraft's case, quite a lot, IMHO. With its QRP DNA, Elecraft uses post crystal filter circuitry that minimizes current consumption. The trade off for this is the need for a bank of pricey crystal filters to limit the frequencies that the circuitry is exposed to. Now what if the subsequent circuitry doesn't require this much protection because it is more robust? We now have direct-sampling radios that can digitize a whole ham band with good performance. If the BW was limited to 10-15 kHz in an up conversion configuration they should be even better. The limitation now becomes LO phase noise, but newer synthesizer designs overcome that obstacle. Another thing to note is that IMD in crystal filters is reported to be inversely proportional to BW. So a wider filter might actually be better from that perspective. Some Elecraft filters exhibit passive IMD BTW. Wes N7WS On 6/14/2018 8:01 AM, WILLIE BABER wrote: Hello Wes, I took a look. Both designs are using the idea of "roofing filter" to refer to up-conversion radios similar to the use of up-conversion 3khz filters as roofing filters in Icom radios. "Roofing filter" (a mode specific filter after the first mixer including narrow cw filters) only makes sense in the context of the history of superhet design and in particular the use of one broad 15 khz first I-F (so that all modes may pass through it) typical of all Japanese radios until recently. Calling a 45 mhz filter at the first I-F a "roofing filter" as noted in the info you sent entirely misses the point of what roofing filter means. Or, to put it another way, all Ten-Tec radios had roofing filters in them (and were ssb and cw only) well before the term roofing filter was coined! Which is why an Omni C will out perform any wide (15 khz) first I-F Japanese radio, even those built well after the 1980 vintage Omni C. Unless mode specific up-conversion crystal filters can be made and as narrow as 200 hz (this is possible with down-conversion) then "roofing filter" and up conversion doesn't make sense historically or in reality. Actually, Icom says that did it with 1.2khz filter at 64 mhz in the Icom 7851, though I'm not convinced the filter is that narrow, and 1.2khz is far from the 200hz filter that my K3 has in it (however, the placement of this filter is why the 7851 is among the best radios in Sherwood's chart, on cw). It is possible to make very narrow and precise crystal filters as narrow as the 200 hz inexpensively, and this is the point of having multiple roofing filters at the first I-F. So, this is the origin of the term roofing filter---in comparison to the barn-door up conversion first I-F. 73, Will, wj9b CWops #1085 CWA Advisor levels II and III http://cwops.org/ On Wed, 6/13/18, Wes Stewart wrote: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Wednesday, June 13, 2018, 3:08 PM Certainly not to disparage the K3(S) architecture (I have two of them) there is nothing inherently wrong with an up-conversion receiver, if modern hardware is used. See:https://martein.home.xs4all.nl/pa3ake/hmode/g3sbi_intro.html and my friend Cornell's, Star-10 transceiver. https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/eb33/5c12858779a653d9b9b93ca20120aebb7616.pdf Wes N7WS On 6/13/2018 11:38 AM, WILLIE BABER wrote: > Robert is talking about the crystal filters, also known as roofing filters now-days, that are typically placed after the first mixer (I mistakenly typed "ahead" but I meant "after" as Robert notes), though there is a post amp and NB before these filters in K2 and K3. > > The idea is that a crystal filter right after the first mixer gives high dynamic range because high selectivity comes before the receiver has developed stages of gain that otherwise could cause blocking or IMD, especially when selectivity is postponed to the second mixer while ignoring gain distribution in prior stages of the receiver. This basic idea was popularized in Solid State Design for the Radio Amateur, and it was applied to Ten-Tec radios for decades (at a 9 mhz I-F). > > Roofing filter gets defined in relationship to Japanese radios that had up conversion 15 khz filters at the first I-F, and generally lower dynamic range as a result, (but you got all modes, general coverage, and optional crystal filters at the second I-F). > > Good for everyone radios but with lower dynamic range and phase n
Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience
Hi Guys. For what it's worth, I find it interesting how the term "Roofing filter" has changed a bit over time and with different 'ownership'. Personally, I first came across the term in around 1966 as a junior design engineer working on the Redifon R550 series of HF receivers. I understood then that the term "roof" referred to the "top of the house" filter used to provide the first measure of protection against adjacent unwanted signals. These and other similar HF receivers used an up-conversion architecture, and the R550/551 employed a first IF at 38 MHz with the local oscillator running 38 to 68 MHz. The bandwidth of this filter, which followed the first mixer, was around 15 KHz as I recall. The second IF was at 1.4 MHz (or 1.6 MHz in other similar designs) and featured a number of selectable crystal filters typically providing close-in band-widths from around 200Hz to 12 KHz. Employing a first IF above 30 MHz shifts the first image into the VHF spectrum and allows the use of a 30 MHz low pass filter in the front end, with sub-octave band pass filters to provide a measure of front-end selectivity. We would have loved to provide close-in selectivity at the first IF frequency and so avoid a down-conversion to the second IF, but achieving the required passband /stopband characteristics just was (is) not possible at 38 MHz. However, decent close in selectivity (passband and stopband) can be provided with cr ystal filters at around 9 MHz or thereabouts, and many of the earlier purely analogue designs of amateur equipment took advantage of this, including TenTec. I do not personally view this particular application as a roofing filter as is not protecting further stages of selectivity.t it All now ancient history...things have moved on a bit since then! Can anyone trace the term further back in time? However, It seems to me that the term "roofing filter" still makes perfectly good sense in the context of the K3 design, with the selectable crystal filters providing the maximum possible (mode dependent) selectivity protection in front of the final IF, even if that is now implemented using DSP techniques! Terry G3VFO -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On Behalf Of WILLIE BABER Sent: 14 June 2018 16:02 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Wes Stewart Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience Hello Wes, I took a look. Both designs are using the idea of "roofing filter" to refer to up-conversion radios similar to the use of up-conversion 3khz filters as roofing filters in Icom radios. "Roofing filter" (a mode specific filter after the first mixer including narrow cw filters) only makes sense in the context of the history of superhet design and in particular the use of one broad 15 khz first I-F (so that all modes may pass through it) typical of all Japanese radios until recently. Calling a 45 mhz filter at the first I-F a "roofing filter" as noted in the info you sent entirely misses the point of what roofing filter means. Or, to put it another way, all Ten-Tec radios had roofing filters in them (and were ssb and cw only) well before the term roofing filter was coined! Which is why an Omni C will out perform any wide (15 khz) first I-F Japanese radio, even those built well after the 1980 vintage Omni C. Unless mode specific up-conversion crystal filters can be made and as narrow as 200 hz (this is possible with down-conversion) then "roofing filter" and up conversion doesn't make sense historically or in reality. Actually, Icom says that did it with 1.2khz filter at 64 mhz in the Icom 7851, though I'm not convinced the filter is that narrow, and 1.2khz is far from the 200hz filter that my K3 has in it (however, the placement of this filter is why the 7851 is among the best radios in Sherwood's chart, on cw). It is possible to make very narrow and precise crystal filters as narrow as the 200 hz inexpensively, and this is the point of having multiple roofing filters at the first I-F. So, this is the origin of the term roofing filter---in comparison to the barn-door up conversion first I-F. 73, Will, wj9b CWops #1085 CWA Advisor levels II and III http://cwops.org/ On Wed, 6/13/18, Wes Stewart wrote: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Wednesday, June 13, 2018, 3:08 PM Certainly not to disparage the K3(S) architecture (I have two of them) there is nothing inherently wrong with an up-conversion receiver, if modern hardware is used. See: https://martein.home.xs4all.nl/pa3ake/hmode/g3sbi_intro.html and my friend Cornell's, Star-10 transceiver. https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/eb33/5c12858779a653d9b9b93ca20120aebb7616.pdf Wes N7WS On 6/13/2018 11:38 AM, WILLIE BABER wrote: > Robert is talking about the crystal filters, also known as roofing filters now-days, that are typically placed after t
Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Linearity
The gain compression I measured, between 1000 and 1500 W on 40 meters, was 1.4 dB. I used the K3 and KPA1500 power meters. Factory calibration of the KPA1500. Scott K9MA -- Scott Ellington --- via iPad > On Jun 14, 2018, at 2:51 PM, Paul Baldock wrote: > > What you report of compression near the maximum power is certainly true of > the amplifiers like the SPE-1.5K that use a single device, but I would have > thought this would not be true of the KPA1500 that uses 2 devices. This is > the reason I returned my SPE and ordered the KPA. Hopefully the compression > is less than 1dB. > > Has anybody else measured it? > > - Paul - KW7Y > > > > At 02:21 PM 6/9/2018, you wrote: >> I recently ran a two-tone test and measured CW power gain. (SN1078) It >> doesn't look good. The two-tone waveform shows distinct "flat-topping", >> and the power gain drops 25 percent from 1000 to 1500 Watts. My old 3-500Z >> amplifier is much better. Has anyone measured IMD or linearity, or seen >> any test results? While I'm primarily a CW operator, I'd be very reluctant >> to use the amplifier on SSB. 73, Scott K9MA -- Scott K9MA >> k...@sdellington.us >> __ Elecraft >> mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: >> http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This >> list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: >> http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to p...@paulbaldock.com > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to k...@sdellington.us __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] power requirements for a K3S, KPA500, KAT500, P3?
It's a simple visit to ohms law. OR Just grab a "kill a watt" tester and look at your current draw. With a quick "in the head math" the 15 amp breaker will be fine. Remember the 30amp supply is at 13.8v not 117v ac the panel breaker is at. Again Ohms law. BTW : glad you asked the question rather than change breaker size. 73 Dean On Wed, Jun 13, 2018, 23:03 Michael Gillen via Elecraft < elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote: > Kind of a dumb question however here goes: > > I got my K3S a short while ago and now I want to add the KPA500 and KAT500 > to it however it just now occurred to me that I should check how much juice > I need to power that thing! > > I’m currently using an Alinco DM-330MV which I believe puts out 30A > continuous however its probably plugged into one the house 15A lines. > > So my questions are: > > 1) Will 15A house line supply enough juice for the K3S, KPA500, KAT500, > and in the future a P3 Panadaper? > > 2) If not can I get away with replacing the breaker with a 20A breaker? > 30A? > > 3) Will the Alinco be big enough or should I upgrade that as well? > > > Thanks guys, > Michael > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to dean.k...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station
Bob and all, Yes, those "backstab" receptacles that electricians love to use because they are quick and easy do not have adequate contact stength and can overheat and cause voltage drops and a fire hazard. If I were to discover them in any house I occupied, I would pull the wires out of the 'backstab' and put the wires under the screws. There is nothing wrong with the receptacles, except for that marginal wire contact in the 'backstab' contacts - change those to "under the screw" connections and all will be well. There are good 'strip and insert' receptacles use a clamping mechanism tightened with a screw, and those do not have the problem. My house is wired with #12 wire for ALL the receptacles, (lighting is #14) but I do use the 15 amp receptacles with no problem (except in the kitchen where they are 20 amp) - the 15 amp receptacles will not accept #12 wire in the 'backstab' holes, so the only choice was to use the screw terminals. I have 20 amp breakers on the receptacle circuits, but 15 amp on the lighting. Yes, I did it myself and the inspector had no problem with my wiring. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/14/2018 9:07 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote: And in replacing receptacles, I found the original 1980 wiring in our house was done by the "strip and push-in" connections. Many I found were loose, some showed signs of heating. I took on the project to replace all of the receptacles and switches in the house. In doing so, I did NOT use the push-in method, but turned a hook on the end of every wire and put it around the screw in the correct direction. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] MY KPA-1500 IS ON THE WAY
My KPA-1500 order is processed and shipped, with a UPS tracking number. It was ordered on February 26, 2018. It is supposed to arrive in 5 days. I will let you know next when it arrives. 73's Ron Durie WB4OOA Elecraft K-Line __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Linearity
What you report of compression near the maximum power is certainly true of the amplifiers like the SPE-1.5K that use a single device, but I would have thought this would not be true of the KPA1500 that uses 2 devices. This is the reason I returned my SPE and ordered the KPA. Hopefully the compression is less than 1dB. Has anybody else measured it? - Paul - KW7Y At 02:21 PM 6/9/2018, you wrote: I recently ran a two-tone test and measured CW power gain. (SN1078) It doesn't look good. The two-tone waveform shows distinct "flat-topping", and the power gain drops 25 percent from 1000 to 1500 Watts. My old 3-500Z amplifier is much better. Has anyone measured IMD or linearity, or seen any test results? While I'm primarily a CW operator, I'd be very reluctant to use the amplifier on SSB. 73, Scott K9MA -- Scott K9MA k...@sdellington.us __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to p...@paulbaldock.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX2 lowers frequency with PTT
Dear Friends, I had just the same issue with my KX3 and was fixed switching MIC BTN menu to PTT. Thanks for this great information! All the best to all, 73’s Fernando, PY1BL Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 14, 2018, at 3:17 AM, VK7JB wrote: > > Well, I just checked and switching MIC BTN to PTT has resolved the issue. > Thanks! > > Looking more carefully, the frequency down-jumping glitch occurs on my KX3 > about every 10-20 actuations of the PTT switch - the timing seems random, > but is often enough to be irritating. And it stops with the change in the > MIC BTN menu item to PTT. > > 73, > John > VK7JB > > > > -- > Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to fsinde...@yahoo.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station
Well said, Rick! 73! Ken - K0PP On Thu, Jun 14, 2018, 12:09 Rick WA6NHC wrote: > As a retired career firefighter (line Captain), I say: > > A POX on the push in connections. One should NEVER use them, they are > bound to fail sooner due to the mechanics involved (each un/plug flexes > the internals and the binding spring and eventually fails) and they WILL > cause issues (such as arcing, overheating, causing a fire). It was > worse in decades past, when aluminum wire was allowed in code, now > thankfully that is not (the bimetal reactions were an > and aluminum melts MUCH lower than copper, it was sheer stupid). > > Use the screw downs, ALWAYS, always, ALWAYS. Plus, even if it costs > more, get something made in this country with a known quality brand. > Consider the extra couple bucks as cheap insurance. Quality matters. > Do not count on the UL Listing, it means exactly zero. > > If you're having an electrician do the install, demand in writing, that > only the screw downs will be used AND quality plugs, not the contractor > special of the day. > > Rick NHC > > > On 6/14/2018 10:48 AM, Jim Brown wrote: > > > > Some of these receptacles, including those that you're describing as > > strip and push-in, are cheap JUNK. By all means, buy the better grade > > stuff with a screw that tightens a plate to the conductors. > > > > 73, Jim K9YC > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to elecraftcov...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] power requirements for a K3S, KPA500, KAT500, P3?
On 6/14/2018 10:18 AM, ANDY DURBIN wrote: When I added my KPA500 to my TS-590S station I found the drop in mains voltage unacceptable. I'd bet that was because of the IR drop in the long #14 wires feeding the outlet (and maybe other stuff running off that circuit). Yes, 240VAC is better, simply because it requires half the current, and thus half the IR drop. With this power distribution arrangement I run my KPA500 at 500 W output and PA voltage does not usually drop below 60 V. Remember that there's a three-position jumper that selects a transformer tap inside the amp to adjust for line voltage. Access it by removing the top cover, and RTFM to learn how to set it. Unplug from power, of course. The KPA will go into protect mode if the HV is too high when NOT transmitting (greater than about 82V) and too low when transmitting (less than about 55V), so the key is to watch that voltage after changing the jumper. We run two K3/KPA500 for 7QP and CQP county expeditions from two Yamaha 2000i generators, which are providing 120V. We're running about 40 ft of #10-3 from the generator to the outlet where the amps are plugged in, and typically get 500W from the amp. Team leader W6GJB bought a "strapping kit" to run the generators in parallel, and changed the breaker on the one feeding the station to 30A. We do this for the generators -- they're happier in parallel with keyed CW. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KPA1500 Latest Shipping Status
We've just updated the Elecraft Shipping Status page for the KPA1500: We have been ramping up production and are now preparing to ship orders received through Feb 27th. New Orders should ship 6.5 weeks after day of order, based on our current backlog. Also, check the Elecraft shipping status page frequently as we will be updating this info often as we drive lead-times lower. See: http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_shipping_status.htm 73! Eric /elecraft.com/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station
As a retired career firefighter (line Captain), I say: A POX on the push in connections. One should NEVER use them, they are bound to fail sooner due to the mechanics involved (each un/plug flexes the internals and the binding spring and eventually fails) and they WILL cause issues (such as arcing, overheating, causing a fire). It was worse in decades past, when aluminum wire was allowed in code, now thankfully that is not (the bimetal reactions were an and aluminum melts MUCH lower than copper, it was sheer stupid). Use the screw downs, ALWAYS, always, ALWAYS. Plus, even if it costs more, get something made in this country with a known quality brand. Consider the extra couple bucks as cheap insurance. Quality matters. Do not count on the UL Listing, it means exactly zero. If you're having an electrician do the install, demand in writing, that only the screw downs will be used AND quality plugs, not the contractor special of the day. Rick NHC On 6/14/2018 10:48 AM, Jim Brown wrote: Some of these receptacles, including those that you're describing as strip and push-in, are cheap JUNK. By all means, buy the better grade stuff with a screw that tightens a plate to the conductors. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] power requirements for a K3S, KPA500, KAT500, P3?
John, I didn’t think you were suggesting changing breakers. The original post asked if he could change out breakers to a 20A or 30A breaker. Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 14, 2018, at 1:39 PM, Jim Brown wrote: > >> On 6/14/2018 4:14 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote: >> It should be fine to run the KPA500 at reduced power using your existing >> 15 amp outlet, unless you have a lot of other stuff plugged in. > > No power reduction is required -- let's do the simple math. The KPA draws > about 10A at 120v keydown. That 12v (probably 13.8V) supply shouldn't draw > much more than about 2A when the K3 is driving the KPA500, because the KPA > needs less than 30W to get to full power. The 13.8V supply should draw no > more than about 2A with the K3 barefoot at full power keydown. > > 73, Jim K9YC > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to hsherr...@reagan.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station
On 6/14/2018 8:47 AM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote: Many of the newer receptacles have a similar hole, but the screw is actually connected to an internal clamp. These are very nearly as easy to use as the old push-in receptacles, but far more secure since you're actually tightening the screw on the side to secure the clamp. Some of these receptacles, including those that you're describing as strip and push-in, are cheap JUNK. By all means, buy the better grade stuff with a screw that tightens a plate to the conductors. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] power requirements for a K3S, KPA500, KAT500, P3?
On 6/14/2018 4:14 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote: It should be fine to run the KPA500 at reduced power using your existing 15 amp outlet, unless you have a lot of other stuff plugged in. No power reduction is required -- let's do the simple math. The KPA draws about 10A at 120v keydown. That 12v (probably 13.8V) supply shouldn't draw much more than about 2A when the K3 is driving the KPA500, because the KPA needs less than 30W to get to full power. The 13.8V supply should draw no more than about 2A with the K3 barefoot at full power keydown. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] power requirements for a K3S, KPA500, KAT500, P3?
"Will 15A house line supply enough juice for the K3S, KPA500, KAT500, and in the future a P3 Panadaper?" When I added my KPA500 to my TS-590S station I found the drop in mains voltage unacceptable. I made some changes in power distribution and now have a web power switch connected directly to the 120 V outlet. That web power switch feeds the KPA500 directly and feeds the other station equipment via breakout strips. One port of the web switch has a permanently installed "kill-a-watt" monitor. The outlet I'm plugged into is just the other side of the house wall from the breaker panel. With this power distribution arrangement I run my KPA500 at 500 W output and PA voltage does not usually drop below 60 V. In a spot check on 20 m (the band at which my KPA500 efficiency seems to be worst) I saw 119.0 V with KPA500 standby and 113.4 V with key down 500 W RF output. The situation is a bit worse when the heat pump is running but doesn't seem to cause any operational problems. If I ever build a real station I'll include 240 V outlets. 73, Andy k3wyc __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station
It depends on the inspector. You're correct about code and safety. Bigger wire has less loss and will stay cooler. Inspectors may look at a job, see a 15 amp breaker and yellow NM, and insist on the "correct size" breakers, and the "correct" 15/20A outlets. Sadly, code is often what the local inspector thinks it is. 73 -- Lynn On 6/14/2018 8:53 AM, Phil Kane wrote: You can always/undersize/ the breaker - the code specifies*maximum* current for the wire size. (In the past several months I've been doing more electrical EE work than electronic EE work projects:) ) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station
On 6/14/2018 6:07 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote: > For the ham station, I ran a dedicated 240 volt circuit with #10 wire > but used a 20A breaker in the panel. Likewise a dedicated 120 volt > circuit, #10 wire and a 20A breaker. You can always /undersize/ the breaker - the code specifies *maximum* current for the wire size. (In the past several months I've been doing more electrical EE work than electronic EE work projects :) ) 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane (P.E.) Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] power requirements for a K3S, KPA500, KAT500, P3?
NO! The wire will get very hot, and you may burn down your house as a result. On 6/13/2018 8:02 PM, Michael Gillen via Elecraft wrote: 2) If not can I get away with replacing the breaker with a 20A breaker? 30A? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station
Many of the newer receptacles have a similar hole, but the screw is actually connected to an internal clamp. These are very nearly as easy to use as the old push-in receptacles, but far more secure since you're actually tightening the screw on the side to secure the clamp. 73 -- Lynn On 6/14/2018 6:07 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote: And in replacing receptacles, I found the original 1980 wiring in our house was done by the "strip and push-in" connections. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience
Hello Wes, I took a look. Both designs are using the idea of "roofing filter" to refer to up-conversion radios similar to the use of up-conversion 3khz filters as roofing filters in Icom radios. "Roofing filter" (a mode specific filter after the first mixer including narrow cw filters) only makes sense in the context of the history of superhet design and in particular the use of one broad 15 khz first I-F (so that all modes may pass through it) typical of all Japanese radios until recently. Calling a 45 mhz filter at the first I-F a "roofing filter" as noted in the info you sent entirely misses the point of what roofing filter means. Or, to put it another way, all Ten-Tec radios had roofing filters in them (and were ssb and cw only) well before the term roofing filter was coined! Which is why an Omni C will out perform any wide (15 khz) first I-F Japanese radio, even those built well after the 1980 vintage Omni C. Unless mode specific up-conversion crystal filters can be made and as narrow as 200 hz (this is possible with down-conversion) then "roofing filter" and up conversion doesn't make sense historically or in reality. Actually, Icom says that did it with 1.2khz filter at 64 mhz in the Icom 7851, though I'm not convinced the filter is that narrow, and 1.2khz is far from the 200hz filter that my K3 has in it (however, the placement of this filter is why the 7851 is among the best radios in Sherwood's chart, on cw). It is possible to make very narrow and precise crystal filters as narrow as the 200 hz inexpensively, and this is the point of having multiple roofing filters at the first I-F. So, this is the origin of the term roofing filter---in comparison to the barn-door up conversion first I-F. 73, Will, wj9b CWops #1085 CWA Advisor levels II and III http://cwops.org/ On Wed, 6/13/18, Wes Stewart wrote: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Field Day rig experience To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Wednesday, June 13, 2018, 3:08 PM Certainly not to disparage the K3(S) architecture (I have two of them) there is nothing inherently wrong with an up-conversion receiver, if modern hardware is used. See: https://martein.home.xs4all.nl/pa3ake/hmode/g3sbi_intro.html and my friend Cornell's, Star-10 transceiver. https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/eb33/5c12858779a653d9b9b93ca20120aebb7616.pdf Wes N7WS On 6/13/2018 11:38 AM, WILLIE BABER wrote: > Robert is talking about the crystal filters, also known as roofing filters now-days, that are typically placed after the first mixer (I mistakenly typed "ahead" but I meant "after" as Robert notes), though there is a post amp and NB before these filters in K2 and K3. > > The idea is that a crystal filter right after the first mixer gives high dynamic range because high selectivity comes before the receiver has developed stages of gain that otherwise could cause blocking or IMD, especially when selectivity is postponed to the second mixer while ignoring gain distribution in prior stages of the receiver. This basic idea was popularized in Solid State Design for the Radio Amateur, and it was applied to Ten-Tec radios for decades (at a 9 mhz I-F). > > Roofing filter gets defined in relationship to Japanese radios that had up conversion 15 khz filters at the first I-F, and generally lower dynamic range as a result, (but you got all modes, general coverage, and optional crystal filters at the second I-F). > > Good for everyone radios but with lower dynamic range and phase noise from the early synthesizers. This is why Ten-Tec radios were so popular among contesters, especially Omni V and VI (modified with a narrow cw filter at the first I-F). > > 73, Will, wj9b > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to wlba...@bellsouth.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station
Hey guys thank you for the responses however I did not intend for this to get derailed into a discussion about home wiring. Michael KK6RWK > On Jun 14, 2018, at 6:12 AM, hawley, charles j jr > wrote: > > I always get the 20A outlets and switches (if needed for a motor driving > circuit) for everything. I have been using the strip, push in, and tighten > the screw to clamp down on the wire type. They seem very good as to contact. > > Chuck KE9UW > > > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on > behalf of Bob McGraw K4TAX [rmcg...@blomand.net] > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 8:07 AM > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station > > And in replacing receptacles, I found the original 1980 wiring in our > house was done by the "strip and push-in" connections. Many I found > were loose, some showed signs of heating. I took on the project to > replace all of the receptacles and switches in the house. In doing so, > I did NOT use the push-in method, but turned a hook on the end of every > wire and put it around the screw in the correct direction. While it > may or may not make a difference, I sleep better at night and no longer > notice near as much lamp flicker from time to time. And, I didn't buy > the "cheapies" for replacements. By the time the project was finished, > I had a 5 gallon bucket nearly full of switches and receptacles for the > trash. > > For the ham station, I ran a dedicated 240 volt circuit with #10 wire > but used a 20A breaker in the panel. Likewise a dedicated 120 volt > circuit, #10 wire and a 20A breaker. > > 73 > > Bob, K4TAX > > > On 6/14/2018 7:27 AM, Charlie T wrote: >> Holy Frijoles!! >> >> I did NOT know that. >> >> >> >> I DID know you can use 20A/120V * outlets on 15 Amp circuits, but I hadn't >> heard about the breaker spec down-grade as well. >> >> >> >> I recently changed out all my kitchen outlets to the 20A * type mainly just >> to get a heavier duty outlet. The code called for two separate 20A/12ga >> circuits in any kitchen which is what I used when I wired the house in 1974. >> The socket we use for a typical coffee maker recently felt too warm after >> brewing a pot, so after 40+ years, I felt it was time for a new socket >> anyway, so why not go with the heavier ones. Of course, I may be fooling >> myself as the size of the actual brass used in them MAY be the same as the >> regular 15A outlets. >> >> >> >> 73, Charlie k3ICH >> >> >> >> *In 20A/120V outlets, the neutral side (white wire terminal) can accept >> either the normal 15A parallel blade plug, or the 20A version where the >> neutral blade is perpendicular to the hot (black) blade. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Subject: Error in your comments Charlie >> >> >> >> Charlie you should check the latest and greatest NEC code book. 20A on #14 >> is OK on certain types of #14 >> >> >> >> Yes I don't agree with it but that is the new book. >> >> >> >> John k9uwa >> >> >> >> >> >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> Message delivered to rmcg...@blomand.net >> > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to c-haw...@illinois.edu > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to mjgil...@yahoo.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] power requirements for a K3S, KPA500, KAT500, P3?
I did not suggest changing the breaker. I wrote either use what he has at reduced output or install at least one new dedicated circuit. John KK9A Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone. On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 8:26 AM, Harlan Sherriff wrote: > Michael, > Do NOT replace the breaker with a larger current breaker UNLESS the wiring > is rated for the extra current. > 15A = 14 gage wire > 20A = 12 gage wire > 30A = 10 gage wire > > Harlan > K4HES > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Jun 14, 2018, at 7:14 AM, "j...@kk9a.com" wrote: > > > > It should be fine to run the KPA500 at reduced power using your existing > > 15 amp outlet, unless you have a lot of other stuff plugged in. You can > > always add a 240v outlet later. I ran a separate 20 amp 120v outlet > along > > with a new 240v outlet into the shack. Your 30 amp power supply is > > adequate for the K3S and P3. > > > > GL > > John KK9A > > > > > > Michael Gillen KK6RWK wrote: > > > > Kind of a dumb question however here goes: > > > > I got my K3S a short while ago and now I want to add the KPA500 and > KAT500 > > to it however it just now occurred to me that I should check how much > > juice I need to power that thing! > > > > I’m currently using an Alinco DM-330MV which I believe puts out 30A > > continuous however its probably plugged into one the house 15A lines. > > > > So my questions are: > > > > 1) Will 15A house line supply enough juice for the K3S, KPA500, KAT500, > > and in the future a P3 Panadaper? > > > > 2) If not can I get away with replacing the breaker with a 20A breaker? > 30A? > > > > 3) Will the Alinco be big enough or should I upgrade that as well? > > > > > > Thanks guys, > > Michael > > > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > Message delivered to hsherr...@reagan.com > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station
I always get the 20A outlets and switches (if needed for a motor driving circuit) for everything. I have been using the strip, push in, and tighten the screw to clamp down on the wire type. They seem very good as to contact. Chuck KE9UW From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on behalf of Bob McGraw K4TAX [rmcg...@blomand.net] Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 8:07 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station And in replacing receptacles, I found the original 1980 wiring in our house was done by the "strip and push-in" connections. Many I found were loose, some showed signs of heating. I took on the project to replace all of the receptacles and switches in the house. In doing so, I did NOT use the push-in method, but turned a hook on the end of every wire and put it around the screw in the correct direction. While it may or may not make a difference, I sleep better at night and no longer notice near as much lamp flicker from time to time. And, I didn't buy the "cheapies" for replacements. By the time the project was finished, I had a 5 gallon bucket nearly full of switches and receptacles for the trash. For the ham station, I ran a dedicated 240 volt circuit with #10 wire but used a 20A breaker in the panel. Likewise a dedicated 120 volt circuit, #10 wire and a 20A breaker. 73 Bob, K4TAX On 6/14/2018 7:27 AM, Charlie T wrote: > Holy Frijoles!! > > I did NOT know that. > > > > I DID know you can use 20A/120V * outlets on 15 Amp circuits, but I hadn't > heard about the breaker spec down-grade as well. > > > > I recently changed out all my kitchen outlets to the 20A * type mainly just > to get a heavier duty outlet. The code called for two separate 20A/12ga > circuits in any kitchen which is what I used when I wired the house in 1974. > The socket we use for a typical coffee maker recently felt too warm after > brewing a pot, so after 40+ years, I felt it was time for a new socket > anyway, so why not go with the heavier ones. Of course, I may be fooling > myself as the size of the actual brass used in them MAY be the same as the > regular 15A outlets. > > > > 73, Charlie k3ICH > > > > *In 20A/120V outlets, the neutral side (white wire terminal) can accept > either the normal 15A parallel blade plug, or the 20A version where the > neutral blade is perpendicular to the hot (black) blade. > > > > > > > Subject: Error in your comments Charlie > > > > Charlie you should check the latest and greatest NEC code book. 20A on #14 > is OK on certain types of #14 > > > > Yes I don't agree with it but that is the new book. > > > > John k9uwa > > > > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to rmcg...@blomand.net > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to c-haw...@illinois.edu __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] AC Power for the Station
And in replacing receptacles, I found the original 1980 wiring in our house was done by the "strip and push-in" connections. Many I found were loose, some showed signs of heating. I took on the project to replace all of the receptacles and switches in the house. In doing so, I did NOT use the push-in method, but turned a hook on the end of every wire and put it around the screw in the correct direction. While it may or may not make a difference, I sleep better at night and no longer notice near as much lamp flicker from time to time. And, I didn't buy the "cheapies" for replacements. By the time the project was finished, I had a 5 gallon bucket nearly full of switches and receptacles for the trash. For the ham station, I ran a dedicated 240 volt circuit with #10 wire but used a 20A breaker in the panel. Likewise a dedicated 120 volt circuit, #10 wire and a 20A breaker. 73 Bob, K4TAX On 6/14/2018 7:27 AM, Charlie T wrote: Holy Frijoles!! I did NOT know that. I DID know you can use 20A/120V * outlets on 15 Amp circuits, but I hadn't heard about the breaker spec down-grade as well. I recently changed out all my kitchen outlets to the 20A * type mainly just to get a heavier duty outlet. The code called for two separate 20A/12ga circuits in any kitchen which is what I used when I wired the house in 1974. The socket we use for a typical coffee maker recently felt too warm after brewing a pot, so after 40+ years, I felt it was time for a new socket anyway, so why not go with the heavier ones. Of course, I may be fooling myself as the size of the actual brass used in them MAY be the same as the regular 15A outlets. 73, Charlie k3ICH *In 20A/120V outlets, the neutral side (white wire terminal) can accept either the normal 15A parallel blade plug, or the 20A version where the neutral blade is perpendicular to the hot (black) blade. Subject: Error in your comments Charlie Charlie you should check the latest and greatest NEC code book. 20A on #14 is OK on certain types of #14 Yes I don't agree with it but that is the new book. John k9uwa __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to rmcg...@blomand.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Error in your comments Charlie
Holy Frijoles!! I did NOT know that. I DID know you can use 20A/120V * outlets on 15 Amp circuits, but I hadn't heard about the breaker spec down-grade as well. I recently changed out all my kitchen outlets to the 20A * type mainly just to get a heavier duty outlet. The code called for two separate 20A/12ga circuits in any kitchen which is what I used when I wired the house in 1974. The socket we use for a typical coffee maker recently felt too warm after brewing a pot, so after 40+ years, I felt it was time for a new socket anyway, so why not go with the heavier ones. Of course, I may be fooling myself as the size of the actual brass used in them MAY be the same as the regular 15A outlets. 73, Charlie k3ICH *In 20A/120V outlets, the neutral side (white wire terminal) can accept either the normal 15A parallel blade plug, or the 20A version where the neutral blade is perpendicular to the hot (black) blade. Subject: Error in your comments Charlie Charlie you should check the latest and greatest NEC code book. 20A on #14 is OK on certain types of #14 Yes I don't agree with it but that is the new book. John k9uwa > > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] power requirements for a K3S, KPA500, KAT500, P3?
Michael, Do NOT replace the breaker with a larger current breaker UNLESS the wiring is rated for the extra current. 15A = 14 gage wire 20A = 12 gage wire 30A = 10 gage wire Harlan K4HES Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 14, 2018, at 7:14 AM, "j...@kk9a.com" wrote: > > It should be fine to run the KPA500 at reduced power using your existing > 15 amp outlet, unless you have a lot of other stuff plugged in. You can > always add a 240v outlet later. I ran a separate 20 amp 120v outlet along > with a new 240v outlet into the shack. Your 30 amp power supply is > adequate for the K3S and P3. > > GL > John KK9A > > > Michael Gillen KK6RWK wrote: > > Kind of a dumb question however here goes: > > I got my K3S a short while ago and now I want to add the KPA500 and KAT500 > to it however it just now occurred to me that I should check how much > juice I need to power that thing! > > I’m currently using an Alinco DM-330MV which I believe puts out 30A > continuous however its probably plugged into one the house 15A lines. > > So my questions are: > > 1) Will 15A house line supply enough juice for the K3S, KPA500, KAT500, > and in the future a P3 Panadaper? > > 2) If not can I get away with replacing the breaker with a 20A breaker? 30A? > > 3) Will the Alinco be big enough or should I upgrade that as well? > > > Thanks guys, > Michael > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to hsherr...@reagan.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX2 lowers frequency with PTT
John, It has been my perception that the changing resistance of the 1/8” TRRS Mic plug, as it rotates slightly when holding the Mic, is the source of the frequency instability. Turning off the Up/Dwn function, as you have discovered, is the cure. Very 73 - Mike - K9JRI > On Jun 14, 2018, at 2:17 AM, VK7JB wrote: > > Well, I just checked and switching MIC BTN to PTT has resolved the issue. > Thanks! > > Looking more carefully, the frequency down-jumping glitch occurs on my KX3 > about every 10-20 actuations of the PTT switch - the timing seems random, > but is often enough to be irritating. And it stops with the change in the > MIC BTN menu item to PTT. > > 73, > John > VK7JB > > > > -- > Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to k9...@mac.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] power requirements for a K3S, KPA500, KAT500, P3?
It should be fine to run the KPA500 at reduced power using your existing 15 amp outlet, unless you have a lot of other stuff plugged in. You can always add a 240v outlet later. I ran a separate 20 amp 120v outlet along with a new 240v outlet into the shack. Your 30 amp power supply is adequate for the K3S and P3. GL John KK9A Michael Gillen KK6RWK wrote: Kind of a dumb question however here goes: I got my K3S a short while ago and now I want to add the KPA500 and KAT500 to it however it just now occurred to me that I should check how much juice I need to power that thing! I’m currently using an Alinco DM-330MV which I believe puts out 30A continuous however its probably plugged into one the house 15A lines. So my questions are: 1) Will 15A house line supply enough juice for the K3S, KPA500, KAT500, and in the future a P3 Panadaper? 2) If not can I get away with replacing the breaker with a 20A breaker? 30A? 3) Will the Alinco be big enough or should I upgrade that as well? Thanks guys, Michael __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
