Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks - dB meter

[Gary Smith]

You can get a very nice dB meter in your 
smart phone with several free apps. The 
only caveat is it will only effectively 
register 80 dB even though the scale 
appears to read higher. This intensity 
level is due to audio limiting circuitry 
in the phone itself. I do have a hand held 
dB meter that is accurate to 120 dB but I 
rarely am around that noise level.

73,

Gary
KA1J



> If one wishes to cite how loud a sound exists, then use a sound level
> meter and measure the noise at a specific and stated distance and
> several different axis and report the level in dB. A weighted or C
> weighted.   Also measure and state the level of the room ambient.
>    Use a spectrum analyzer to quantify the nature or content of the
> sound, frequency and waveform.   Those numbers will then equate to
> something that is meaningful.   If others do the same, then there is
> contained evidence of units which may contribute to the artifact of
> concern.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[ANDY DURBIN]

"I doubt that a phone recording has the proper range to qualify as a test 
device."


I think some people have misunderstood the reason for making the recording. The 
purpose was to establish a baseline. If any mechanical changes I make change 
the acoustic signature of the clicks then I have increased my knowledge of what 
causes them. It does not matter a bit if what the phone records represents what 
I hear.


I do not claim that the phone recording is an absolute measurement of anything.

73,

Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 clicks

[Paul Antos]

I doubt that a phone recording has the proper range to qualify as a test device.

I'll wait for the resident audio guru K9YC to set things a-right on a 
scientific test.

The only time I get clicks on my very early kit built is in a RTTY contest, 
where I already have the fan at level two ... they are few and far between, 
doesn't bother me, and beats the heck out of other screaming banshee amps I 
have put up with.

NS2N
(Ex WB2ABD)
No sign off message

Get Outlook for Android

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2, KX3 supply voltage

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Why not use a 7812 three terminal regulator?   It will accept up to 30 V 
on the input, deliver 12 V on the output at 1.5 amps. These cost about 
$1.50 or less.    If one needs more current then add a 2N3055H as a pass 
transistor for up to 5 amps of current.


Another choice is a regular AC 120V power supply, remove the transformer 
and bridge rectifier, feed the 24 volts to the unregulated input, where 
the bridge rectifier was connected and you have 12V DC regulated.   
These should be available for $10 to $20 new.  just don't buy a 
switching supply.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 7/18/2018 9:50 PM, Dennis Haarsager wrote:

I just bought a 24V 3.5A battery to power my CPAP machine when AC isn’t 
available. Would be nice if I could use it to power my KX2 or KX3. 24v-12V down 
converters are cheap, but the only 24V-13.8V one I’ve found so far is an order 
of magnitude more. Does anyone think the extra cost is worth it in terms of 
extra tx performance?

73,
Dennis, N7DH/1, MM/N7DH

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2, KX3 supply voltage

[Nr4c]

My club used a $20 buck converter from Amazon for FD. Used two AGC batteries in 
series and dropped to 14.1V.  Unit is 20Amp and handles input voltage up to 40 
and output from 5-35Volts.  

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jul 18, 2018, at 10:50 PM, Dennis Haarsager  wrote:
> 
> I just bought a 24V 3.5A battery to power my CPAP machine when AC isn’t 
> available. Would be nice if I could use it to power my KX2 or KX3. 24v-12V 
> down converters are cheap, but the only 24V-13.8V one I’ve found so far is an 
> order of magnitude more. Does anyone think the extra cost is worth it in 
> terms of extra tx performance?
> 
> 73,
> Dennis, N7DH/1, MM/N7DH
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Jim Sheldon]

I've had my KPA500 for a few years now.  I built it from a kit.  The only time 
I ever hear what you describe is when I've been long winded on RTTY.  

I run it @ 450 Watts out no matter the mode and I never even get a fan speed 
increase unless I'm in a RTTY rag chew and normally never hear any thermal 
clicks.  

I don't worry about it or let it bother me.

Jim, W0EB

> On Jul 18, 2018, at 9:38 PM, Randy Farmer  wrote:
> 
> I have never heard anything like that on my early kit-assembled KPA500. 
> But... I've only used it extensively on CW. It would be interesting to know 
> if the clicks are being experienced only under high duty cycle usage such as 
> digital modes or if they have also been heard in CW/SSB duty.
> 
> 73...
> Randy, W8FN
> 
>> On 7/18/2018 6:25 PM, ANDY DURBIN wrote:
>> I placed my Android phone on top of my KPA500 and made a recording while 
>> making a few cycles of FT8 TX/RX.  The audio files can be found here:
>> 
>> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/amfy3dz8pgl083n/AAAKi2GYripXyIDjiLpJ2hDwa?dl=0
> 
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[Elecraft] KX2, KX3 supply voltage

[Dennis Haarsager]

I just bought a 24V 3.5A battery to power my CPAP machine when AC isn’t 
available. Would be nice if I could use it to power my KX2 or KX3. 24v-12V down 
converters are cheap, but the only 24V-13.8V one I’ve found so far is an order 
of magnitude more. Does anyone think the extra cost is worth it in terms of 
extra tx performance?

73,
Dennis, N7DH/1, MM/N7DH

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Martin Sole]

I think a more realistic measurement than the original, phone on the amp 
cabinet would be to place the phone on something like a tripod roughly 
where the operators head might be. That is likely to be a more balanced 
level.


That said I'm not sure that having the specific absolute level in one 
particular environment is necessarily all that useful, in this case. 
Having a number, defined in specific terms doesn't help me to feel one 
way or the other if that would impact on my operating. But if I can hear 
what Andy hears and it sounds anything like what he recorded then I 
would be looking at ways to mitigate it. Recording and amplifying the 
offending sound as much as necessary in order to identify the root would 
seem a good start.


What Andy showed is that there is a ticking sound and that sound is 
being produced by an action on one or more materials. If they can be 
identified it is possible that sound can be reduced. Whetherit is a loud 
or quiet sound is of less significance, we all hear differently.


Martin, HS0ZED




On 19/07/2018 09:31, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
All of these "relative" recordings have little to no value in terms of 
"how loud" the noise may be.   Yes, it is there. Amplify it enough and 
it will blow the side of the house out.  The phone on top of the amp 
is certainly not where ones ear may reside.


If one wishes to cite how loud a sound exists, then use a sound level 
meter and measure the noise at a specific and stated distance and 
several different axis and report the level in dB. A weighted or C 
weighted.   Also measure and state the level of the room ambient.    
Use a spectrum analyzer to quantify the nature or content of the 
sound, frequency and waveform.   Those numbers will then equate to 
something that is meaningful.   If others do the same, then there is 
contained evidence of units which may contribute to the artifact of 
concern.


73

Bob, K4TAX



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Randy Farmer]

I have never heard anything like that on my early kit-assembled KPA500. 
But... I've only used it extensively on CW. It would be interesting to 
know if the clicks are being experienced only under high duty cycle 
usage such as digital modes or if they have also been heard in CW/SSB duty.


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 7/18/2018 6:25 PM, ANDY DURBIN wrote:

I placed my Android phone on top of my KPA500 and made a recording while making 
a few cycles of FT8 TX/RX.  The audio files can be found here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/amfy3dz8pgl083n/AAAKi2GYripXyIDjiLpJ2hDwa?dl=0


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

All of these "relative" recordings have little to no value in terms of 
"how loud" the noise may be.   Yes, it is there. Amplify it enough and 
it will blow the side of the house out.  The phone on top of the amp is 
certainly not where ones ear may reside.


If one wishes to cite how loud a sound exists, then use a sound level 
meter and measure the noise at a specific and stated distance and 
several different axis and report the level in dB. A weighted or C 
weighted.   Also measure and state the level of the room ambient.    Use 
a spectrum analyzer to quantify the nature or content of the sound, 
frequency and waveform.   Those numbers will then equate to something 
that is meaningful.   If others do the same, then there is contained 
evidence of units which may contribute to the artifact of concern.


73

Bob, K4TAX



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Martin Sole]

I think it sounds "orrible!". I'm quite used to the low rumble of the 
blower in my Alpha 77D but that ticking would be like Chinese water 
torture to me. Listening to an individual tick it does seem to have a 
ring to it. Okay the recording was perhaps not the most acoustically 
perfect but it certainly does sound as if the ring is from the source 
and not any sort of artifact. If it is from the source then I think you 
can probably find a way to damp it. First trick will be to identify the 
specific source.


I had read other comments about a ticking, always imagined it to be 
minimal and essentially unobtrusive but if what you have recorded is 
anything like how it sounds sat in front of it then definitely it does 
sound pretty bad to me and not just in amplitude but also in its timbre, 
pitch, and repetition rate.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 19/07/2018 06:25, ANDY DURBIN wrote:

I placed my Android phone on top of my KPA500 and made a recording while making 
a few cycles of FT8 TX/RX.  The audio files can be found here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/amfy3dz8pgl083n/AAAKi2GYripXyIDjiLpJ2hDwa?dl=0


One file is the raw recording.  The second has been processed in Audacity to 
amplify to 0 dB peak.  The file starts before the first TX. Next the hum of the 
transformer can be heard with FT8 modulation in the background from TX moni.   
As the recording progresses the changes in fan speed can be heard.   The click 
are always well above the fan noise.

I used this recording to perform some spectral analysis of the clicks.  I took 
one sample at the click and another sample of the noise just before the click.  
I then subtracted the noise from the click and I think I have a reasonable 
click signature to use as a baseline for evaluating any mechanical changes I 
make in an attempt to reduce the clicks.

Crank it up and enjoy, especially if you think it's normal.

73,
Andy k3wyc
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[Elecraft] Vanity Calls Signs

[ANDY DURBIN]

"Gotta unsubscribe. Can’t take 20 emails a day about nothing. "


You could, perhaps, try a different way of participating. I receive zero emails 
from this "list". I simply visit the archive and read the discussions I'm 
interested in.


Try this - http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2018-July/258531.html


Revise the URL for each new month.


73,

Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[hawley, charles j jr]

I definitely never heard that 

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 18, 2018, at 6:26 PM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:
> 
> 
> I placed my Android phone on top of my KPA500 and made a recording while 
> making a few cycles of FT8 TX/RX.  The audio files can be found here:
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/amfy3dz8pgl083n/AAAKi2GYripXyIDjiLpJ2hDwa?dl=0
> 
> 
> One file is the raw recording.  The second has been processed in Audacity to 
> amplify to 0 dB peak.  The file starts before the first TX. Next the hum of 
> the transformer can be heard with FT8 modulation in the background from TX 
> moni.   As the recording progresses the changes in fan speed can be heard.   
> The click are always well above the fan noise.
> 
> I used this recording to perform some spectral analysis of the clicks.  I 
> took one sample at the click and another sample of the noise just before the 
> click.  I then subtracted the noise from the click and I think I have a 
> reasonable click signature to use as a baseline for evaluating any mechanical 
> changes I make in an attempt to reduce the clicks.
> 
> Crank it up and enjoy, especially if you think it's normal.
> 
> 73,
> Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] Vanity Calls Signs

[Len Matulewicz]

I am new to this blog/ email list/ etc with the hope of learning about a recent 
k2 100 purchase. 

Gotta unsubscribe. Can’t take 20 emails a day about nothing. 

KC9ZZU

Sent via iPhone

> On Jul 18, 2018, at 7:18 PM, Dave  wrote:
> 
> Can this meaningless thread be killed, please? It has nothing to do with 
> Elecraft. C’mon guys, go get on the air or something………
> 
> Dave N8AG
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Vanity Calls Signs

[Dave]

Can this meaningless thread be killed, please? It has nothing to do with 
Elecraft. C’mon guys, go get on the air or something………

Dave N8AG

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Yep, mine sounds about the same.   And I too run the fan on #2 when 
working FT-8.  Otherwise, I set it to normal and it cycles on and off as 
needed.  The clicks and pops are considered "normal" as per the KPA-500 
manual and also a friend that was instrumental in me making my 
purchase.    Fact of the matter, the static crashes are louder than the 
amp clicks.


I have acoustic material on the wall behind the amp.  That absorbs a lot 
of sound that would normally be reflected into the room, both from the 
fan and from the clicks.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 7/18/2018 6:45 PM, Michael Blake via Elecraft wrote:

Andy, mine sounds very much like your recording.  When on FT8 and using the 
KPA500 I usually set its fan to 2 and it seldom ramps up past that speed.

Your recording sounds very normal to me.  Maybe not a good thing but normal :)

73 - Mike - K9JRI








On Jul 18, 2018, at 7:25 PM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:


I placed my Android phone on top of my KPA500 and made a recording while making 
a few cycles of FT8 TX/RX.  The audio files can be found here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/amfy3dz8pgl083n/AAAKi2GYripXyIDjiLpJ2hDwa?dl=0


One file is the raw recording.  The second has been processed in Audacity to 
amplify to 0 dB peak.  The file starts before the first TX. Next the hum of the 
transformer can be heard with FT8 modulation in the background from TX moni.   
As the recording progresses the changes in fan speed can be heard.   The click 
are always well above the fan noise.

I used this recording to perform some spectral analysis of the clicks.  I took 
one sample at the click and another sample of the noise just before the click.  
I then subtracted the noise from the click and I think I have a reasonable 
click signature to use as a baseline for evaluating any mechanical changes I 
make in an attempt to reduce the clicks.

Crank it up and enjoy, especially if you think it's normal.

73,
Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Michael Blake via Elecraft]

Andy, mine sounds very much like your recording.  When on FT8 and using the 
KPA500 I usually set its fan to 2 and it seldom ramps up past that speed.  

Your recording sounds very normal to me.  Maybe not a good thing but normal :)

73 - Mike - K9JRI







> On Jul 18, 2018, at 7:25 PM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:
> 
> 
> I placed my Android phone on top of my KPA500 and made a recording while 
> making a few cycles of FT8 TX/RX.  The audio files can be found here:
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/amfy3dz8pgl083n/AAAKi2GYripXyIDjiLpJ2hDwa?dl=0
> 
> 
> One file is the raw recording.  The second has been processed in Audacity to 
> amplify to 0 dB peak.  The file starts before the first TX. Next the hum of 
> the transformer can be heard with FT8 modulation in the background from TX 
> moni.   As the recording progresses the changes in fan speed can be heard.   
> The click are always well above the fan noise.
> 
> I used this recording to perform some spectral analysis of the clicks.  I 
> took one sample at the click and another sample of the noise just before the 
> click.  I then subtracted the noise from the click and I think I have a 
> reasonable click signature to use as a baseline for evaluating any mechanical 
> changes I make in an attempt to reduce the clicks.
> 
> Crank it up and enjoy, especially if you think it's normal.
> 
> 73,
> Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[ANDY DURBIN]

I placed my Android phone on top of my KPA500 and made a recording while making 
a few cycles of FT8 TX/RX.  The audio files can be found here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/amfy3dz8pgl083n/AAAKi2GYripXyIDjiLpJ2hDwa?dl=0


One file is the raw recording.  The second has been processed in Audacity to 
amplify to 0 dB peak.  The file starts before the first TX. Next the hum of the 
transformer can be heard with FT8 modulation in the background from TX moni.   
As the recording progresses the changes in fan speed can be heard.   The click 
are always well above the fan noise.

I used this recording to perform some spectral analysis of the clicks.  I took 
one sample at the click and another sample of the noise just before the click.  
I then subtracted the noise from the click and I think I have a reasonable 
click signature to use as a baseline for evaluating any mechanical changes I 
make in an attempt to reduce the clicks.

Crank it up and enjoy, especially if you think it's normal.

73,
Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

One of the things that the standby generators have over inverters etc, is a 
rotating mass.  My water cooled 30 KW diesel Generac runs the whole farm and 
house on power outages and behaves like the others mentioned, it never misses a 
beat or hicups with the deep well pimp or 5KW electric dryer kicks in.  Mine 
has been in service for over 25 years, and keeps on ticking..  No soft 
starts, staging or such anywhere.  
Mel, K6KBE

  From: "wb4...@knology.net" 
 To: AB4IQ ; "'Joe Subich, W4TV'" ; 
'Elecraft'  
 Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 2:52 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...
   
Not "soft-start", but

We have a Generac 20kW air-cooled generator at our house, that works 
wonderfully!  IIRC, anything larger is water-cooled.  Our house has two, 
200amp breaker panels.  We have three A/C units, an induction cooktop, 
ovens, dryer, and other goodies.  When I started looking for a whole-house 
generator, almost every electrical contractor/company told me that I needed 
a 37kW, water-cooled generator, which has a small car engine for a motor. 
Generac even told them to tell me that's what needed for the loading and 
wiring in my house.

I had done some research, and found that Generac sold a system that works 
with their ATS, called Nexus (or Nexys, or similar spelling).  It includes 
"smart switches" that go in series with each heavy load device, such that 
the ATS can control those switches to turn on/of various loads, depending on 
what's running at any given time.  There was only one electrical company 
here in Charleston, SC, that even knew about this system, they had just 
taken a course on it.  Needless to say, they got my business.

We've been through both summer and winter storm outages, up to about 24 
hours, and the whole system works great!  It does "stage" the air 
conditioners, depending on the load.  The cost is higher, but I did NOT want 
a water-cooled car engine running on the side of my house.

I've also switched to Rennai water heaters to get rid of constantly heating 
water for occasional use.  We do have natural gas at the house, so the 
generator runs on that.  We were going to get a gas cooktop, but during the 
kitchen remodel, we found the induction cooktop is as fast or faster than 
gas, and keeps the cooktop very clean.  We can cook stuff with a layer of 
butcher paper between the cooktop and the pan.  Highly recommended.
73, Terry, N4TLF


-Original Message- 
From: AB4IQ
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 5:20 PM
To: 'Joe Subich, W4TV' ; 'Elecraft'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...

I have a Generac 20 KW here at the house and a 22KW Generac at the farm.  I
have Central Heat/Air in my garage and house and you never see a blink when
the compressors kick on.  There are times when both are running like at the
present time with all of the high temperatures.  Last week we had a three or
so hour outage and the 20 KW never missed a beat.  At the farm, which is all
electric we had a 5 hour outage and the 22KW never missed a beat.  They do
make devices that the water heater and air will not work at the same time or
at least partially from what I understand.  I also have a well at the farm
and we see no problems at all.

We had an Ice Storm here in W. Kentucky in 2009 and was out of power for six
or seven days.  We won't go through with that again.  HI..

Ed.. AB4IQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 1:30 PM
To: Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...


A year (two?) ago there was a discussion of whole house standby generators
on this list.  One of the things mentioned was "soft start" modules for A/C
and other heavy current motor devices.

Of course, the discussion was not pertinent to me at the time - we've been
using a 6 KW portable for 10 years or more.  But now the wife has decided it
is time to get auto-start and capability to handle the A/C.  She doesn't
want to spend another weak without A/C like we've faced following both
Matthew two years ago and Irma last year and doesn't want to risk that my
back/neck won't act up and prevent me from rolling out/starting the old
portable.

Does anyone have a pointer to the A/C soft start controllers?  I know our
A/C (168 LRA) will certainly bog down even the biggest (22 KW) whole house
unit (and going to a 30 or 50 KW just to start the A/C is not economically
effective at 3 to 5 X the cost ).

-- 

73,

    ... Joe, W4TV

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 latest firmware

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

The link will be back soon. We found a few bugs inthe remote sw and temporarily 
pulled it from the ftp site.


Stay tuned! We'll announce here when it is back up next week.

Eric
/elecraft.com/

On 7/17/2018 10:00 PM, Paul Baldock wrote:
Listed under new features for 01.64 7-12-2018  is 
Support for Elecraft Remote Software, ver 1.0.4.0.


This suggests that the remote software is now available. However the link 
appears not to work. Is the remote software in fact available somewhere?


- Paul  KW7Y __
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Re: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...

[wb4jfi]

Not "soft-start", but

We have a Generac 20kW air-cooled generator at our house, that works 
wonderfully!  IIRC, anything larger is water-cooled.  Our house has two, 
200amp breaker panels.  We have three A/C units, an induction cooktop, 
ovens, dryer, and other goodies.  When I started looking for a whole-house 
generator, almost every electrical contractor/company told me that I needed 
a 37kW, water-cooled generator, which has a small car engine for a motor. 
Generac even told them to tell me that's what needed for the loading and 
wiring in my house.


I had done some research, and found that Generac sold a system that works 
with their ATS, called Nexus (or Nexys, or similar spelling).  It includes 
"smart switches" that go in series with each heavy load device, such that 
the ATS can control those switches to turn on/of various loads, depending on 
what's running at any given time.  There was only one electrical company 
here in Charleston, SC, that even knew about this system, they had just 
taken a course on it.  Needless to say, they got my business.


We've been through both summer and winter storm outages, up to about 24 
hours, and the whole system works great!  It does "stage" the air 
conditioners, depending on the load.  The cost is higher, but I did NOT want 
a water-cooled car engine running on the side of my house.


I've also switched to Rennai water heaters to get rid of constantly heating 
water for occasional use.  We do have natural gas at the house, so the 
generator runs on that.  We were going to get a gas cooktop, but during the 
kitchen remodel, we found the induction cooktop is as fast or faster than 
gas, and keeps the cooktop very clean.  We can cook stuff with a layer of 
butcher paper between the cooktop and the pan.  Highly recommended.

73, Terry, N4TLF


-Original Message- 
From: AB4IQ

Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 5:20 PM
To: 'Joe Subich, W4TV' ; 'Elecraft'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...

I have a Generac 20 KW here at the house and a 22KW Generac at the farm.  I
have Central Heat/Air in my garage and house and you never see a blink when
the compressors kick on.  There are times when both are running like at the
present time with all of the high temperatures.  Last week we had a three or
so hour outage and the 20 KW never missed a beat.  At the farm, which is all
electric we had a 5 hour outage and the 22KW never missed a beat.  They do
make devices that the water heater and air will not work at the same time or
at least partially from what I understand.  I also have a well at the farm
and we see no problems at all.

We had an Ice Storm here in W. Kentucky in 2009 and was out of power for six
or seven days.  We won't go through with that again.  HI..

Ed.. AB4IQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 1:30 PM
To: Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...


A year (two?) ago there was a discussion of whole house standby generators
on this list.  One of the things mentioned was "soft start" modules for A/C
and other heavy current motor devices.

Of course, the discussion was not pertinent to me at the time - we've been
using a 6 KW portable for 10 years or more.  But now the wife has decided it
is time to get auto-start and capability to handle the A/C.  She doesn't
want to spend another weak without A/C like we've faced following both
Matthew two years ago and Irma last year and doesn't want to risk that my
back/neck won't act up and prevent me from rolling out/starting the old
portable.

Does anyone have a pointer to the A/C soft start controllers?  I know our
A/C (168 LRA) will certainly bog down even the biggest (22 KW) whole house
unit (and going to a 30 or 50 KW just to start the A/C is not economically
effective at 3 to 5 X the cost ).

--

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Call letter license plate trivia

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

This similar OT thread is also now closed.

73
Eric
Moderator,
/elecraft.com/

On 7/18/2018 7:02 AM, Jim via Elecraft wrote:





In Florida one gets a lot of false positives of call letter plates, especially 
for French calls.

Florida  issues vanity plates for colleges with certain letters: F # * * *  is 
used for one of the big Florida universities, and N # * *  for New College in 
Sarasota.  Probably a few more series as well.


73   -   Jim   K8MR(/4 in the winter)

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Re: [Elecraft] Vanity Calls

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Thread closed.

Folks, way OT topics like this should be self limited to a typical 2-5 posts at 
most. This is well outside of our normal Elecraft related topics.


73,
Eric
/Moderator, really!
elecraft.com/

On 7/18/2018 12:37 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
Indeed, went through exactly the same process in CA a number of years ago.  
Ham tags in CA are not vanity tags, they've been around pretty much as long as 
I've been a ham, back when all tags came in one flavor ... black with yellow 
letters. When vanity tags came along, they got their own field in the file for 
the type code, and you couldn't be a ham and a vanity at the same time.  At 
that time, DMV's system was coded in COBOL and ran on a TRS80, I think.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 7/18/2018 11:51 AM, Phil Kane wrote:

About 25 years ago I tried to assist a California ham in his effort to
get his call sign on a "special series" plate (as contrasted to a "plain
vanilla" plate) after DMV rejected it.  I happened to have a personal
link to the state senator who was the chair of the committee overseeing
the DMV.   His staff assistant looked into it and related that the DMV
computer was so old that it could not be reprogrammed in the field to
permit this, and that the funding for the new computer was circulating
somewhere in Legislative Limbo.  I love(d) California but there are
limits... :)

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
ARRL Volunteer Counsel



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Re: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Similar, although the microair seems to be targeted at RV A/C units.
The one I saw mentioned had specific instructions for most of the
main domestic A/C brands.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2018-07-18 2:32 PM, Grant Youngman wrote:

Something like this, maybe?

https://www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters 




On Jul 18, 2018, at 2:29 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:


A year (two?) ago there was a discussion of whole house standby
generators on this list.  One of the things mentioned was "soft
start" modules for A/C and other heavy current motor devices.

Of course, the discussion was not pertinent to me at the time -
we've been using a 6 KW portable for 10 years or more.  But now
the wife has decided it is time to get auto-start and capability
to handle the A/C.  She doesn't want to spend another weak without
A/C like we've faced following both Matthew two years ago and Irma
last year and doesn't want to risk that my back/neck won't act up
and prevent me from rolling out/starting the old portable.

Does anyone have a pointer to the A/C soft start controllers?  I know
our A/C (168 LRA) will certainly bog down even the biggest (22 KW)
whole house unit (and going to a 30 or 50 KW just to start the A/C
is not economically effective at 3 to 5 X the cost ).

--

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV

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Re: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...

[AB4IQ]

I have a Generac 20 KW here at the house and a 22KW Generac at the farm.  I
have Central Heat/Air in my garage and house and you never see a blink when
the compressors kick on.  There are times when both are running like at the
present time with all of the high temperatures.  Last week we had a three or
so hour outage and the 20 KW never missed a beat.  At the farm, which is all
electric we had a 5 hour outage and the 22KW never missed a beat.  They do
make devices that the water heater and air will not work at the same time or
at least partially from what I understand.  I also have a well at the farm
and we see no problems at all.

We had an Ice Storm here in W. Kentucky in 2009 and was out of power for six
or seven days.  We won't go through with that again.  HI..

Ed.. AB4IQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 1:30 PM
To: Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...


A year (two?) ago there was a discussion of whole house standby generators
on this list.  One of the things mentioned was "soft start" modules for A/C
and other heavy current motor devices.

Of course, the discussion was not pertinent to me at the time - we've been
using a 6 KW portable for 10 years or more.  But now the wife has decided it
is time to get auto-start and capability to handle the A/C.  She doesn't
want to spend another weak without A/C like we've faced following both
Matthew two years ago and Irma last year and doesn't want to risk that my
back/neck won't act up and prevent me from rolling out/starting the old
portable.

Does anyone have a pointer to the A/C soft start controllers?  I know our
A/C (168 LRA) will certainly bog down even the biggest (22 KW) whole house
unit (and going to a 30 or 50 KW just to start the A/C is not economically
effective at 3 to 5 X the cost ).

-- 

73,

... Joe, W4TV

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - FT8 - low power issues when TX audio below 900hz

[Keith Onishi]

If your WSJT-X is enabled to CAT control your K3, WSJT-X change VFO frequency 
on transmit so that FT8 AF frequency into K3 is center of TX filter.

However, before WSJT-X has this feature, I did not have any issue on 
transmitting < 900Hz AF.
Are you using DATA-A mode on K3 for digi-mode? If you use SSB mode on K3 for 
digi-mode and TX EQ has been set to reduce <900Hz audio level, this could be 
the cause.

73 de JH3SIF, Keith

> 2018/07/19 4:11、LA8AW のメール:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> On all HF bands I have very low power output when I TX with a audio
> frequency below  900hz. Between 900 - 2300hz all is normal.  On 50Mhz,
> power the output start dropping when I come below 500Hz. (FL1 2.7 selected
> on all bands)
> 
> Using Microham MicroKeyer II; Audio switching is set to Digital settings,
> using line in (rear). Tested with 2 different MicroKeyer II same result.
> 
> FT8 is soundcard configured Input: Line (microham CODEC), Output: Headset
> Earphone (microHAM CODEC).
> 
> This was causing problems for me when I tried to work stations running DX
> Mode (KH1).
> 
> K3 with the "new" synth card, all mods done.
> Filters installed: 2.7, 1.8, 1.0, 0.4, 0.25
> DATA enabled for all filters
> 
> Any hints on where to look next?
> 
> 
> 73 de LA8AW - Odd-Egil
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[Elecraft] Vanity Calls

[Bob DeHaney]

I just had to put the German part in.  I originally had DJ0MBC, then we looked 
in the Netzagentur (German FCC) data base and found that DJ0BD and DJ0RD were 
free.  I thought DJ0BD would be confusing in Morse so I paid my €70.00 and got 
DJ0RD.  Unfortunately, the plate is tied to the car and car owner so if the car 
is sold or scrapped the number is retired.  German license plates are issued 
only with your local town or county abbreviation, a letter and a number.  

I have M-D5973. M for München and D for DeHaney, the rest...

Vy 73 Robert (Bob) DeHaney DJ0RD/WU5T

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - FT8 - low power issues when TX audio below 900hz

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Is the WSJT-X application setting in the F2 menu under Radio set for 
MODE = Data/Pkt and that the Split Operation set to RIG? This keeps the 
transmit tones correct within the passband of the SSB filter.  Here in 
this application SPLIT is not the same principle as split when working 
DX.  SPLIT using the RIG setting will adjust the VFO frequency such that 
the transmitted tone is always between 1500 and 2000 Hz.


/"Split Operation/: Significant advantages result from using*Split*mode 
(separate VFOs for Rx and Tx) if your radio supports it. If it does 
not,/WSJT-X/can emulate such behavior. Either method will result in a 
cleaner transmitted signal, by keeping the Tx audio always in the range 
1500 to 2000 Hz so that audio harmonics cannot pass through the Tx 
sideband filter. Select*Rig*to use the radio’s Split mode, or*Fake It*to 
have/WSJT-X/adjust the VFO frequency as needed, when T/R switching 
occurs. Choose*None*if you do not wish to use split operation"



73
Bob, K4TAX




On 7/18/2018 2:11 PM, LA8AW wrote:

Hi,

On all HF bands I have very low power output when I TX with a audio
frequency below  900hz. Between 900 - 2300hz all is normal.  On 50Mhz,
power the output start dropping when I come below 500Hz. (FL1 2.7 selected
on all bands)

Using Microham MicroKeyer II; Audio switching is set to Digital settings,
using line in (rear). Tested with 2 different MicroKeyer II same result.

FT8 is soundcard configured Input: Line (microham CODEC), Output: Headset
Earphone (microHAM CODEC).

This was causing problems for me when I tried to work stations running DX
Mode (KH1).

K3 with the "new" synth card, all mods done.
Filters installed: 2.7, 1.8, 1.0, 0.4, 0.25
DATA enabled for all filters

Any hints on where to look next?


73 de LA8AW - Odd-Egil
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Re: [Elecraft] Vanity Calls

[Carl]

Well, here's Vermont.

There is a one time fee of $17.00. Ham license is required with the 
application. I have my call on both my truck and motorhome. That turns 
heads when they are parked next to one another. Closer look shows a 
little trk along one side, though.


--
Carl
AB1DD
Resistance is futile.
(don't know about reactance, though)

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Re: [Elecraft] Vanity Calls

[Fred Jensen]

Indeed, went through exactly the same process in CA a number of years 
ago.  Ham tags in CA are not vanity tags, they've been around pretty 
much as long as I've been a ham, back when all tags came in one flavor 
... black with yellow letters. When vanity tags came along, they got 
their own field in the file for the type code, and you couldn't be a ham 
and a vanity at the same time.  At that time, DMV's system was coded in 
COBOL and ran on a TRS80, I think.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 7/18/2018 11:51 AM, Phil Kane wrote:

About 25 years ago I tried to assist a California ham in his effort to
get his call sign on a "special series" plate (as contrasted to a "plain
vanilla" plate) after DMV rejected it.  I happened to have a personal
link to the state senator who was the chair of the committee overseeing
the DMV.   His staff assistant looked into it and related that the DMV
computer was so old that it could not be reprogrammed in the field to
permit this, and that the funding for the new computer was circulating
somewhere in Legislative Limbo.  I love(d) California but there are
limits... :)

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
ARRL Volunteer Counsel



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[Elecraft] K3 - FT8 - low power issues when TX audio below 900hz

[LA8AW]

Hi,

On all HF bands I have very low power output when I TX with a audio
frequency below  900hz. Between 900 - 2300hz all is normal.  On 50Mhz,
power the output start dropping when I come below 500Hz. (FL1 2.7 selected
on all bands)

Using Microham MicroKeyer II; Audio switching is set to Digital settings,
using line in (rear). Tested with 2 different MicroKeyer II same result.

FT8 is soundcard configured Input: Line (microham CODEC), Output: Headset
Earphone (microHAM CODEC).

This was causing problems for me when I tried to work stations running DX
Mode (KH1).

K3 with the "new" synth card, all mods done.
Filters installed: 2.7, 1.8, 1.0, 0.4, 0.25
DATA enabled for all filters

Any hints on where to look next?


73 de LA8AW - Odd-Egil
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S and power failure

[Phil Kane]

On 7/17/2018 6:46 PM, Bob Novas wrote:

> What would be nice would be a small battery
> that powered the smarts independently of the mains supply.  Bob - W3DK

What I have is a 12V DC battery bank (150 AH) feeding all my radio
equipment - transceivers, scanners, processors), a 1500 VA UPS for the
desktop computer and printer, and a 500 VA UPS for the phones and
digital distribution system.  The charger for the battery system (which
can handle full load if the batteries fail) and the laptop supply are
fed off the mains.  That system can and has powered the radio room for
several hours with less than 1 volt drop in the nominal 12-volt system.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Vanity Calls

[Phil Kane]

On 7/17/2018 5:51 PM, John Simmons wrote:

> Same here in Minnesota... BUT! Motorcycle vanity plates are available,
> but Motorcycle ham plates are not. Emails to congressmen on the DMV
> committee have been ignored. Maybe I should try the Governor?

About 25 years ago I tried to assist a California ham in his effort to
get his call sign on a "special series" plate (as contrasted to a "plain
vanilla" plate) after DMV rejected it.  I happened to have a personal
link to the state senator who was the chair of the committee overseeing
the DMV.   His staff assistant looked into it and related that the DMV
computer was so old that it could not be reprogrammed in the field to
permit this, and that the funding for the new computer was circulating
somewhere in Legislative Limbo.  I love(d) California but there are
limits... :)

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
ARRL Volunteer Counsel

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County)  Oregon
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[Elecraft] FYI: XG3 Battery Run Time in CW Simulator mode

[Clay Autery]

FYI in case anyone is interested.

An XG3, fitted with a brand new 9 vdc battery, set to play a CW macro on 
repeat, set to -73dBm, and with AUTO-OFF set to "0" (disable), will run 
continuously for approximately 4 hours, 38 minutes before the battery 
voltage drops too low to continue.


Looks like I will be creating a 5x 2.1mm x 5.5mm RA connectors to PS 
connector to power the CW simulator for hamfest. 


73,

--
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(318) 518-1389

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Re: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...

[Grant Youngman]

Something like this, maybe?

https://www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters 



> On Jul 18, 2018, at 2:29 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:
> 
> 
> A year (two?) ago there was a discussion of whole house standby
> generators on this list.  One of the things mentioned was "soft
> start" modules for A/C and other heavy current motor devices.
> 
> Of course, the discussion was not pertinent to me at the time -
> we've been using a 6 KW portable for 10 years or more.  But now
> the wife has decided it is time to get auto-start and capability
> to handle the A/C.  She doesn't want to spend another weak without
> A/C like we've faced following both Matthew two years ago and Irma
> last year and doesn't want to risk that my back/neck won't act up
> and prevent me from rolling out/starting the old portable.
> 
> Does anyone have a pointer to the A/C soft start controllers?  I know
> our A/C (168 LRA) will certainly bog down even the biggest (22 KW)
> whole house unit (and going to a 30 or 50 KW just to start the A/C
> is not economically effective at 3 to 5 X the cost ).
> 
> -- 
> 
> 73,
> 
>   ... Joe, W4TV
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] The KX1 Now and Forever. Look at the QCX.

[KENT TRIMBLE]

Who says they aren't?

Kent  K9ZTV



On 7/18/2018 10:29 AM, Doug Person wrote:

... so Big E is once again firmly in the lead.



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[Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

A year (two?) ago there was a discussion of whole house standby
generators on this list.  One of the things mentioned was "soft
start" modules for A/C and other heavy current motor devices.

Of course, the discussion was not pertinent to me at the time -
we've been using a 6 KW portable for 10 years or more.  But now
the wife has decided it is time to get auto-start and capability
to handle the A/C.  She doesn't want to spend another weak without
A/C like we've faced following both Matthew two years ago and Irma
last year and doesn't want to risk that my back/neck won't act up
and prevent me from rolling out/starting the old portable.

Does anyone have a pointer to the A/C soft start controllers?  I know
our A/C (168 LRA) will certainly bog down even the biggest (22 KW)
whole house unit (and going to a 30 or 50 KW just to start the A/C
is not economically effective at 3 to 5 X the cost ).

--

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV

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Re: [Elecraft] The KX1 Now and Forever. Look at the QCX.

[Doug Person]

Wow. This kit looks awesome. Maybe Elecraft is just leaving this niche 
for other startups. It is the perfect place to begin. Although, I have 
asked for a K0 in the past. I have a K1 and a KX1 and love them. I was 
truly sad to see them go. But, I understand how business must be based 
on good planning and Elecraft is heading upstream. The new amp certainly 
places a stake at the very top end. Now... if we can only get that K4 
going so Big E is once again firmly in the lead.


Doug -- KJ0F


On 7/15/2018 11:59 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:

I understand that Elecraft can't make the money work with a
rig with a very niche market.  So how about a KX0, or KX9000
in todays marketing bull.  Make it one band.  Make it 5 watts.
Make it buildable by real people, no smds.
...73 Eric WD6DBM

All of what you seek, and more, is already available at almost give-away prices 
in the mono-band transceiver Model QCX kits ($49) and optional custom 
enclosures ($37) from QRP Labs.  The QCX is a modern extremely sophisticated, 
innovative, and capaable design by Hans Summers, G0UPL.

QCX Description Page:
   http://qrp-labs.com/qcx.html

Presentation materials by Hans at Dayton FDIM;
   http://qrp-labs.com/images/news/dayton2018/seminar.pdf
   http://qrp-labs.com/images/news/dayton2018/fdim2018.pdf

QCX Assembly, Alignment, Operation, and Theory Manual:
   http://qrp-labs.com/images/qcx/assembly3_LT.pdf

This manual is outstanding in all areas.  Like the kit design, it is a real 
tour de force.  The kit requires no SMD soldering and is almost all easy TTH 
construction.  The QCX includes all necessary built-in test signal generation 
and associated displays for making alignments.

I don't believe there is any conflict mentioning the QCX mono-band unit on the 
Elecraft list because it is NOT a competitor to ANY product that has ever been 
in Elecraft's 20-year product line.  In one year, almost 6000 QCX kits have 
been sold.  I have recently received four of them and begun construction.

There's more than enough room in my QRP world to appreciate the excellence of 
my three 20-year-old Small Wonders DSW mono-band units, my 18-year-old K1, my 
recent KX2, and my (I hope) soon-to-be completed QCX units.  I love the 
technical innovation in every one of these.

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Call letter license plate trivia

[Jim via Elecraft]

> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Florida one gets a lot of false positives of call letter plates, 
> especially for French calls.
> 
> Florida  issues vanity plates for colleges with certain letters: F # * * *  
> is used for one of the big Florida universities, and N # * *  for New College 
> in Sarasota.  Probably a few more series as well.
> 
> 
> 73   -   Jim   K8MR(/4 in the winter)

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Re: [Elecraft] Vanity Calls

[Harlan Sherriff via Elecraft]

In SC, vanity plates vary in cost depending on what organization the tag 
represents. Antique =$10, some college plates =$70. But Amateur plates are $2 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 18, 2018, at 6:52 AM, John Harper  wrote:
> 
> Maybe we can get 40+ others to chime in from every state...and let's not
> forget the Canadian provinces. What an interesting and efficient thread.
> 
> Not.
> 
> John AE5X
> https://ae5x.blogspot.com
> 
> _
> 
> Same procedure in TN. Call plate obtained with amateur license at
> regular price.
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> * On Jul 17, 2018, at 7:47 PM, Phil Hystad via Elecraft > mailman.qth.net > wrote:
> *> >* Ditto for Washington State — copy of FCC license required to get
> call sign plate.  But, at least in WA state, the plate is not
> considered a vanity plate so you don’t need to pay the premium charge
> for a vanity plate.
> *> >* 73, phil, K7PEH
> *>* Kirkland
> *> >>* On Jul 17, 2018, at 4:14 PM, Phil Kane  > wrote:
> *>> >>* On 7/16/2018 11:15 AM, Charlie T wrote:
> *>> >>>* Yes, and I have TWO of them here in Virginia.
> *>>>* One says K3ICH and the other one is K31CH.
> *>>>* They don't know ham calls at the DMV (HI).
> *>> >>* In both CA and OR where I have had ham plates, it was necessary to
> *>>* submit a copy of my ham license showing the requested call sign as part
> *>>* of the application.
> *>> >>* 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane*
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Call letter license plate trivia

[Gil Drynan]

In Washington state, you can get call sign plates on powered vehicles
only. I wanted to get a plate for my travel trailer.



gil

W7GIL





> I recently learned that in Texas you can have your call sign plates on
> multiple vehicles.  I have KV5M on my Jeep, and as soon as I return from
> my current trip I plan to apply for my call on my motor home.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Call letter license plate trivia

[Ted Edwards W3TB]

I spent a few years in England two decades ago.  Their license plate series
in about 1993 was a single letter for the year of issue (which was K at the
time) followed by 1-3 numbers and 3 letters.  We were out in Cornwall, and
where we were staying was what appeared to be a callsign in the K6(3
letters) type.  Nothing ham radio -- just the assigned number.  Wish I had
a photo to send.

On Wed, Jul 18, 2018 at 7:02 AM, Macka Murrah via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> I recently learned that in Texas you can have your call sign plates on
> multiple vehicles.  I have KV5M on my Jeep, and as soon as I return from my
> current trip I plan to apply for my call on my motor home.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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>



-- 
73 de Ted Edwards, W3TB and GØPWW

and thinking about operating CW:
"Do today what others won't,
so you can do tomorrow what others can't."
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[Elecraft] Utility

[Richard Zalewski]

Wow...thanks to all at Elecraft.  Great utility and updater.  Worked
flawlessly.

Richard
*W7ZR* ex:5C5Z, CN2ZR, K2JSP, W6SBZ, W7KXR, K9ZIJ, W9KNF, W0KDF, W0MQU,
J68ZR, KC6ZR, PJ4/W7ZR, KH2,W7ZR, KH6/W7ZR, V31ZR, VK4AAZ, XE2DV


*Be joyful in hope, patient in affliction, faithful in prayer*
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Re: [Elecraft] Serial Number

[hawley, charles j jr]

I think they’ve already said once that serial numbers depend on how it was 
ordered as well as when.

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 17, 2018, at 11:16 PM, Ronald Genovesi  wrote:
> 
>  Hi Wayne
>I double checked (I have been known to make mistakes) I did indeed placed 
> my order on May 7th 2018  I did receive my KPA1500 on July 13 (could have 
> been July 11th but I was out of town) and the serial number is #328
> Unfortunately I can shed no light on how Elecraft assigns  Serial numbers 
> to their equipment.  
> 
> Ron Genovesi
> n3...@coastside.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jul 17, 2018, at 4:05 PM, Wayne Houser  wrote:
>> 
>> Must be a quirk in the serial number chain of
>> command.
>> Friend of mine took delivery on his KPA 1500 a month ago and his serial
>> number was 291.A guy on the reflector ordered his amp on May 7th and
>> his serial number was something like 330 or 331. I ordered mine on May 8th
>> and got serial number 282. Wonder how that happened???
>> 
>> Wayne
>> WV4TN
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Call letter license plate trivia

[Macka Murrah via Elecraft]

I recently learned that in Texas you can have your call sign plates on multiple 
vehicles.  I have KV5M on my Jeep, and as soon as I return from my current trip 
I plan to apply for my call on my motor home.

Sent from my iPhone
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[Elecraft] Vanity Calls

[John Harper]

Maybe we can get 40+ others to chime in from every state...and let's not
forget the Canadian provinces. What an interesting and efficient thread.

Not.

John AE5X
https://ae5x.blogspot.com

_

Same procedure in TN. Call plate obtained with amateur license at
regular price.

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

>* On Jul 17, 2018, at 7:47 PM, Phil Hystad via Elecraft mailman.qth.net > wrote:
*> >* Ditto for Washington State — copy of FCC license required to get
call sign plate.  But, at least in WA state, the plate is not
considered a vanity plate so you don’t need to pay the premium charge
for a vanity plate.
*> >* 73, phil, K7PEH
*>* Kirkland
*> >>* On Jul 17, 2018, at 4:14 PM, Phil Kane http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft>> wrote:
*>> >>* On 7/16/2018 11:15 AM, Charlie T wrote:
*>> >>>* Yes, and I have TWO of them here in Virginia.
*>>>* One says K3ICH and the other one is K31CH.
*>>>* They don't know ham calls at the DMV (HI).
*>> >>* In both CA and OR where I have had ham plates, it was necessary to
*>>* submit a copy of my ham license showing the requested call sign as part
*>>* of the application.
*>> >>* 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane*
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