Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[Jim Brown]

On 12/12/2018 4:44 PM, Jack Brindle via Elecraft wrote:

Noting that the current is double for 110V, the heat losses in the power line 
will actually be quadrupled.

If you have #12 wire in your walls (the current NEC code), and use the supplied 
power cord, things should be just fine.


That can depend on how long the run is from the power panel to the 
outlet. For CQP and 7QP expeditions, we run KPA500s on 120V, and have 
had issues with under-voltage faults caused by too much IR drop combined 
with regulation issues with the generator.


At home, I run my KPA500 on 240V, because I had 240 brought to the shack 
before I moved in. Since the power supply is unregulated, an advantage 
of running on 240V is slightly less voltage drop when the radio is keyed.


BTW, IR drop and the associated power lost in wiring feeding electronic 
loads is significantly greater than predicted by Ohm's law for a sine 
wave because the current drawn by power supplies is not a sine wave -- 
current is drawn at the peaks of each half of the AC cycle to recharge 
the input filter capacitor.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[Wes Stewart]

Thanks John,

I doubt it in this lifetime.  I need SV/A and FR/G. I suppose I could rent a 
station in New England and work the monk but that wouldn't be on my 120 VAC 
circuit or from Tucson :-)


Wes  N7WS




On 12/12/2018 7:22 PM, Macy monkeys wrote:

There you have it; DX is obviously better on 120V!  :)

Good luck on those last two, Wes!

John K7FD


On Dec 12, 2018, at 6:17 PM, Wes Stewart  wrote:

I run my complete station on a 120V 20A circuit.

Wes  N7WS

9-band DXCC, need two for top of the Honor Roll.




On 12/12/2018 5:13 PM, Tom Berry wrote:
Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?

Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 V outlet 
for it?


Thanks

Tom AA4VV

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[Macy monkeys]

There you have it; DX is obviously better on 120V!  :)  

Good luck on those last two, Wes!

John K7FD

> On Dec 12, 2018, at 6:17 PM, Wes Stewart  wrote:
> 
> I run my complete station on a 120V 20A circuit.
> 
> Wes  N7WS
> 
> 9-band DXCC, need two for top of the Honor Roll.
> 
> 
> 
>> On 12/12/2018 5:13 PM, Tom Berry wrote:
>> Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?
>> 
>> Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 V 
>> outlet for it?
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Tom AA4VV
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[Wes Stewart]

Why not?

On 12/12/2018 6:05 PM, Nr4c wrote:

Lower current.

But why on this thread?

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[Wes Stewart]

I run my complete station on a 120V 20A circuit.

Wes  N7WS

9-band DXCC, need two for top of the Honor Roll.



On 12/12/2018 5:13 PM, Tom Berry wrote:

Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?

Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 V outlet 
for it?



Thanks

Tom AA4VV 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Suddenly Putting Out Only 25 watts at 100 watts indicated

[Peter Dougherty (W2IRT)]

This happened to me at the start of CQWW-SSB in October. My K3s is finally 
enroute back home after a 6 week stay in the Elecraft Repair Department with a 
blown FET in the HPA, cause unknown. And I know I've been told I'm not the only 
one to suffer this failure, and it sounds like this is now a known issue. 

Does anybody have an idea as to what could be causing these FETs to fail, or 
steps to consider to lessen the chances of it happening? I can't speak for 
anybody else, but I baby the heck out of my gear and was shocked to discover it 
failed, when feeding directly into a KPA-1500.


Regards,
Peter Dougherty, W2IRT

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wes Stewart
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 4:55 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Suddenly Putting Out Only 25 watts at 100 watts 
indicated

If you have another receiver, run a two-test and listen to the K3 output in a 
narrow BW.  Ideally, the two tones will be considerably stronger than the first 
pair of sidebands.

I suspect they won't be, you'll have a lot more than two and you have a blown 
FET in the HPA.

Wes  N7WS


On 12/12/2018 12:47 PM, N4ZR wrote:
> Transmitted on my K3 for the first time since the 10-meter contest, and it is 
> only showing 25 watts out on the built-in meter into a dummy load. Power 
> output setting of the K3 is 100W, and same results seen on all bands. What 
> could possibly be going on here?  Back to Watsonville?
>
> The cruel karma of it all is that *yesterday* I ordered a KPA-1500.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Decode and Preamp?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I'd say initially that you aren't configuring the radio for the best 
decode.   Here's something I wrote some months earlier.   It might prove 
worthwhile in your case.  Of course not knowing what bands and your 
noise conditions is something you'll have to judge for yourself.  You 
may need to change the TEXT DEC value to a lower or higher value.




As to RF gain, I find many hams do not understand the way to get 
enhanced performance from their radios.   And this applies to most all 
legacy radios today.   More RF Gain does not assure one they can or will 
hear weaker signals.   The story is Signal to Noise ratio, namely in the 
area of the receiver noise floor.    Since we can't change the RX noise 
floor, as it is established by design, then we need to change the signal 
coming into the radio. Typically one wants the no signal band noise to 
be some 10 dB above the noise floor of the receiver.  And to do this we 
use a combination of attenuation and RF gain reduction.


To run the math, if the RX noise floor is -135 dBm, typical of most 
modern radios, then the "sweet spot" for no signal band noise is -125 
dBm or about S-1.  The -125 dBm value is 10 dB above the receiver noise 
floor.    If the no signal band noise is -97 dBm {S-5} then we need a 
combination of 28 dB attenuation and RF gain reduction.  I typically use 
15 dB attenuation and then back the RF gain down a good bit on 75M.  
While on 10M and 6M I will switch the attenuation off and engage the 
preamp.    Running high gain and no attenuation just to see the S meter 
move upscale is just sucking up receiver headroom and certainly doesn't 
do anything constructive toward improving signal to noise ratio.


Cranking up the RF gain and adding the preamp in many cases is the wrong 
way to go.  I hear all the time about stations running the receiver 
preamp on 80/75 meters.   WOW, they must have a really really low no 
signal band noise.  Something like -135 dBm. In your dreams.




Hope this helps.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 12/12/2018 7:21 PM, Gwen Patton wrote:

Please forgive me if this is a FAQ. If it is, just point me to where I can
find the old answer and I won't bring it up again.

I can usually get the CW decode to work if I can clearly hear the signal.
The CWT bar flashes and the text scrolls, and it gets a lot of characters
right. BUT...

...that's only if I have the preamp OFF.

I've tried using the preamp but decreasing the RF gain. I've tried using
the preamp and the attenuator. I even tried setting a couple of bands to
only 10db preamplification. But if the preamp is on AT ALL, the decode
either never gets a "lock" and the CWT bar is flickering randomly (no
matter what the threshold setting is) with no decode, or the CWT bar is
solid, no flashing, and there's no decode.

If have the preamp OFF, the same signal will usually decode at least
somewhat, and sometimes excellently. Most of the time, W1AW can decode
fairly easily...though FLDIGI and CWGET seem to decode more reliably.
They'll decode 80-90%, while mush is appearing on the PX3 display lines.
But at least I get something with the preamp off.

But there's just some times when the signal is weaker and I can't get the
threshold to crack without the preamp. But then I get no decode at all.

Am I doing something WRONG? Is there some step that I'm not understanding?
Heck, I've seen past entries in the list where some have said they can't
get decode unless the preamp is ON!

Or is there some known issue with preamp + decode that I haven't seen? Mind
you, my antenna, while not fantastic, is adequate for me to get to Europe
on FT8 at 35 watts. I even got from Philly to Fargo on 50w FT8 on 30
meters, using an indoor magnetic loop I built. So it's not my antennas. I
have signal, but paradoxically, when the signal is strengthened by the
preamp, I get lower decode performance. I'd expect that in high-noise
conditions -- amplifying the noise as well as the signal and hashing them
both -- but when the noise floor is low and the signal is just made more
solid with the preamp, I should be able to decode it with the same
technique as when I use it on a stronger signal without the preamp.
Shouldn't I? Or am I simply not grasping some fundamental issue? I've read
the manual, I've read mailing list archive messages, I've experimented with
my own second rig on a dummy load sending a canned CW message (K2 s/n 1641).

This will, I hope, be a moot point in a few months. I'm trying to learn to
copy the CW barebrained instead of using the decoder. (I got rusty from
when I first learned it back in 1999.) But I want to at least be able to
check my copy using the decode function if I can until then. Between them,
maybe I can hold a coherent QSO!

Thanks,
Gwen, NG3P




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Post: 

[Elecraft] CW Decode and Preamp?

[Gwen Patton]

Please forgive me if this is a FAQ. If it is, just point me to where I can
find the old answer and I won't bring it up again.

I can usually get the CW decode to work if I can clearly hear the signal.
The CWT bar flashes and the text scrolls, and it gets a lot of characters
right. BUT...

...that's only if I have the preamp OFF.

I've tried using the preamp but decreasing the RF gain. I've tried using
the preamp and the attenuator. I even tried setting a couple of bands to
only 10db preamplification. But if the preamp is on AT ALL, the decode
either never gets a "lock" and the CWT bar is flickering randomly (no
matter what the threshold setting is) with no decode, or the CWT bar is
solid, no flashing, and there's no decode.

If have the preamp OFF, the same signal will usually decode at least
somewhat, and sometimes excellently. Most of the time, W1AW can decode
fairly easily...though FLDIGI and CWGET seem to decode more reliably.
They'll decode 80-90%, while mush is appearing on the PX3 display lines.
But at least I get something with the preamp off.

But there's just some times when the signal is weaker and I can't get the
threshold to crack without the preamp. But then I get no decode at all.

Am I doing something WRONG? Is there some step that I'm not understanding?
Heck, I've seen past entries in the list where some have said they can't
get decode unless the preamp is ON!

Or is there some known issue with preamp + decode that I haven't seen? Mind
you, my antenna, while not fantastic, is adequate for me to get to Europe
on FT8 at 35 watts. I even got from Philly to Fargo on 50w FT8 on 30
meters, using an indoor magnetic loop I built. So it's not my antennas. I
have signal, but paradoxically, when the signal is strengthened by the
preamp, I get lower decode performance. I'd expect that in high-noise
conditions -- amplifying the noise as well as the signal and hashing them
both -- but when the noise floor is low and the signal is just made more
solid with the preamp, I should be able to decode it with the same
technique as when I use it on a stronger signal without the preamp.
Shouldn't I? Or am I simply not grasping some fundamental issue? I've read
the manual, I've read mailing list archive messages, I've experimented with
my own second rig on a dummy load sending a canned CW message (K2 s/n 1641).

This will, I hope, be a moot point in a few months. I'm trying to learn to
copy the CW barebrained instead of using the decoder. (I got rusty from
when I first learned it back in 1999.) But I want to at least be able to
check my copy using the decode function if I can until then. Between them,
maybe I can hold a coherent QSO!

Thanks,
Gwen, NG3P

-- 

-+-+-+-+-
Jenny Everywhere's Infinite: Quark Time
http://quarktime.net
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[James Bennett via Elecraft]

Jack - great answer, many thanks for clearing it up for me. Our home was built 
in ‘91 so I would guess that it is fairly up to current code, wire-wise. Guess 
I’ll save my $600 for something else. Maybe a trip to the casinos in Tahoe! Or 
paying some bills. Hm... :-)

Jim Bennett / W6JHB
Folsom, CA

> On Dec 12, 2018, at 4:44 PM, Jack Brindle  wrote:
> 
> James;
> 
> There would be no difference in the heat generated inside the KPA500 since 
> the KPA’s transformer is delivering the same voltage and current in either 
> case. The entire difference would be voltage drop on the power line and KPA’s 
> power cord due to the higher current at 110V. The losses are I*I*R, where I 
> is the current and R the power line resistance. Noting that the current is 
> double for 110V, the heat losses in the power line will actually be 
> quadrupled.
> 
> If you have #12 wire in your walls (the current NEC code), and use the 
> supplied power cord, things should be just fine.
> 
> 73!
> Jack, W6FB
> 
>> On Dec 12, 2018, at 4:27 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I’ve wondered the same thing here. While I don’t have the flashing lights 
>> that Dennis  NJ6G does, I DO have a ton of other things plugged in to 
>> outlets in this room.
>> 
>> Am I off in left field on this: if the amp were to run on a 220 circuit it 
>> would obviously draw half the current, and thus (to my uneducated brain) 
>> less current “might” mean less heat generated and a lower temperature inside 
>> the unit. Does that make sense? 
>> 
>> I had an estimate from a licensed electrician who said it would run me about 
>> $600 to put a 220 outlet in the shack, due to it’s distance (and obstacles 
>> in the way) from the electrical entry panel.
>> 
>> Kinda pricy, but eliminating some heat in the shack and keeping the KPA500 
>> fans running slower would be nice….
>> 
>> Jim / W6JHB
>> 
>>> On Dec 12, 2018, at 4:13 PM, Tom Berry  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?
>>> 
>>> Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 V 
>>> outlet for it?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks
>>> 
>>> Tom AA4VV
>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[Nr4c]

Lower current. 

But why on this thread?

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Dec 12, 2018, at 7:13 PM, Tom Berry  wrote:
> 
> Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?
> 
> Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 V 
> outlet for it?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Tom AA4VV
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Depends.   If you have a stiff 120 V service from the breaker panel, a 
service that doesn't loop through other outlets, specially the ones that 
use the push in the wire type connections, then the KPA500 will run OK 
on 120 volts.   If you have other stuff on that circuit,  or have the 
maximum legal number of duplex outlets of 5 on that circuit, then you 
may be approaching the limit of a 20 Amp circuit.


The IR drop between 120 volts and 240 volts is noticeable, more so as 
the distance from the breaker panel to the load increases. The IR drop 
in the wire from the breaker panel to the outlet will be reduced by 
1/4th when operated on 240 as compared to 120. There is drop in the 
outlet, the power cord and such, all will likewise be reduced when a 240 
volt service is used.   And then if you ever go to the KPA-1500, there 
is no choice except 240 volts.


I ran a dedicated 240 volt service, 20A from the breaker panel with 
#10-4 wire and feed it from 2 single breakers.  The larger than required 
wire size makes for less IR drop.  I also have  2 duplex 20A 120V 
outlets which are fed from each leg of the 240 V service thus the reason 
for using #10-4.  That provides L1, L2, Neutral, and Ground as required 
for the 120V duplex outlets.  This way I have a good solid power feed to 
the station.


Labor is the most expensive part, copper wire is the next.

73

Bob, K4TAX



On 12/12/2018 6:13 PM, Tom Berry wrote:

Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?

Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 
V outlet for it?



Thanks

Tom AA4VV

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[Eric Norris]

No, I have run mine both ways.  Works FB on 120v

73 Eric WD6DBM

On Wed, Dec 12, 2018, 4:13 PM Tom Berry  Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?
>
> Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 V
> outlet for it?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Tom AA4VV
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

If you have a dedicated 120 volt receptacle in the shack, that would be 
OK to use, but if it is shared with other receptacles in the house, you 
will find blinking lights with CW or SSB speech.


If you have to run new wiring to the shack, run 240 volts and if you run 
a 4 wire system, it can be split out to 2 120 volt receptacles that you 
can use exclusively in the hamshack.  Your electrician will know how to 
split it out.  Ask him to use #12 wire, or better yet #10 for a lower 
voltage drop from the breaker box.  Many receptacles are wired with #14 
wire (except for kitchen circuits which must be #12 wire according to 
code).  If you have an older house, definitely get dedicated wiring to 
the shack - who knows what older wiring may entail, it was wired only to 
the codes at the time of construction.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/12/2018 7:13 PM, Tom Berry wrote:

Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?

Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 V 
outlet for it?

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[Jack Brindle via Elecraft]

James;

There would be no difference in the heat generated inside the KPA500 since the 
KPA’s transformer is delivering the same voltage and current in either case. 
The entire difference would be voltage drop on the power line and KPA’s power 
cord due to the higher current at 110V. The losses are I*I*R, where I is the 
current and R the power line resistance. Noting that the current is double for 
110V, the heat losses in the power line will actually be quadrupled.

If you have #12 wire in your walls (the current NEC code), and use the supplied 
power cord, things should be just fine.

73!
Jack, W6FB

> On Dec 12, 2018, at 4:27 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> I’ve wondered the same thing here. While I don’t have the flashing lights 
> that Dennis  NJ6G does, I DO have a ton of other things plugged in to outlets 
> in this room.
> 
> Am I off in left field on this: if the amp were to run on a 220 circuit it 
> would obviously draw half the current, and thus (to my uneducated brain) less 
> current “might” mean less heat generated and a lower temperature inside the 
> unit. Does that make sense? 
> 
> I had an estimate from a licensed electrician who said it would run me about 
> $600 to put a 220 outlet in the shack, due to it’s distance (and obstacles in 
> the way) from the electrical entry panel.
> 
> Kinda pricy, but eliminating some heat in the shack and keeping the KPA500 
> fans running slower would be nice….
> 
> Jim / W6JHB
> 
>> On Dec 12, 2018, at 4:13 PM, Tom Berry  wrote:
>> 
>> Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?
>> 
>> Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 V 
>> outlet for it?
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Tom AA4VV
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[Jack Brindle via Elecraft]

Yes. The current draw when running at 220V will be half that needed for 110V, 
which means the heat losses in the power cord and wall wiring will be cut by 
about one-fourth. This also means the voltage drop on the power cord and wall 
wiring will be much less at 220V.
So, there is a pretty good advantage to running the amplifier at 220V. Having 
said that, I wasn’t willing to go through the trouble to add 220V outlets to my 
workshop, so my KPA500s run on 110V. You will hear many folks saying they run 
the KPA500 just fine at that voltage.
Generally if the lights blink when you key the radio it is a good indicator 
that the wall wiring is too small. In that case you may want to have the 
electrician install the higher-voltage line. From experience I know that 
changing out wall wiring is a major effort involving wall patching.

Basically, if you want to go through the trouble, go for it. Otherwise enjoy 
your KPA500 at 110V.

73 and enjoy the KPA500!
Jack, W6FB



> On Dec 12, 2018, at 4:13 PM, Tom Berry  wrote:
> 
> Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?
> 
> Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 V 
> outlet for it?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Tom AA4VV
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[Fred Jensen]

Depends on your 120 V supply.  I had good wiring, through a sub-panel 
[an accident of previous construction] and it ran fine for me, no light 
dimming.  I also had 240 V available, but not located conveniently to 
the KPA500.  KPA1500 is probably something else again.


Now, here in Sparks, my antenna is on the fence.  I sold the KPA/KAT500, 
but on 160/80, I flash the touch lamps in the bedroom at 100 W.  Navy 
radiomen to the south of us could intercept my CW.


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 12/12/2018 4:13 PM, Tom Berry wrote:

Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?

Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 
V outlet for it?



Thanks

Tom AA4VV


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[James Bennett via Elecraft]

I’ve wondered the same thing here. While I don’t have the flashing lights that 
Dennis  NJ6G does, I DO have a ton of other things plugged in to outlets in 
this room.

Am I off in left field on this: if the amp were to run on a 220 circuit it 
would obviously draw half the current, and thus (to my uneducated brain) less 
current “might” mean less heat generated and a lower temperature inside the 
unit. Does that make sense? 

I had an estimate from a licensed electrician who said it would run me about 
$600 to put a 220 outlet in the shack, due to it’s distance (and obstacles in 
the way) from the electrical entry panel.

Kinda pricy, but eliminating some heat in the shack and keeping the KPA500 fans 
running slower would be nice….

Jim / W6JHB

> On Dec 12, 2018, at 4:13 PM, Tom Berry  wrote:
> 
> Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?
> 
> Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 V 
> outlet for it?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Tom AA4VV
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[K9ZTV]

Tom ...

I vote yes and did so myself.  The amp just loafs along and probably prefers 
that voltage.  However, properly configured at the transformer, it runs fine on 
120v which is what I power it when portable for Boy Scout events.  At some 
point you may want a 1500w amp which will definitely need 240v.  Might as well 
do it at today’s electrician rates than tomorrow’s.

73,

Kent  K9ZTV

> On Dec 12, 2018, at 6:13 PM, Tom Berry  wrote:
> 
> Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?
> 
> Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 V 
> outlet for it?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Tom AA4VV
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[Dennis Moore]

Mine's plugged into 110. Someone could probably copy cw from the 
flickering lights in my shack.


73, Dennis NJ6G

On 12/12/2018 16:13, Tom Berry wrote:

Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?

Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 
V outlet for it?



Thanks

Tom AA4VV

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[Elecraft] KPA500 AC power

[Tom Berry]

Is there any advantage to use 220 V over 110 V on the KPA500?

Is it worth having an electrician come to the house and install a 220 V 
outlet for it?



Thanks

Tom AA4VV

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Suddenly Putting Out Only 25 watts at 100 watts indicated

[Wes Stewart]

If you have another receiver, run a two-test and listen to the K3 output in a 
narrow BW.  Ideally, the two tones will be considerably stronger than the first 
pair of sidebands.


I suspect they won't be, you'll have a lot more than two and you have a blown 
FET in the HPA.


Wes  N7WS


On 12/12/2018 12:47 PM, N4ZR wrote:
Transmitted on my K3 for the first time since the 10-meter contest, and it is 
only showing 25 watts out on the built-in meter into a dummy load. Power 
output setting of the K3 is 100W, and same results seen on all bands. What 
could possibly be going on here?  Back to Watsonville?


The cruel karma of it all is that *yesterday* I ordered a KPA-1500.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Suddenly Putting Out Only 25 watts at 100 watts indicated

[Don Wilhelm]

Pete,

On one or both of the bands that failed, try running the TX Gain 
Calibration as described in the manual - that is done on a per band 
basis, and the manual method gives more time for the power to settle.


If it still fails, contact Elecraft support.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/12/2018 4:09 PM, N4ZR wrote:
Ran the TX Gain calibration from the K3 Utility and it failed on 160 and 
80, then aborted because power readings did not converge


73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
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On 12/12/2018 3:40 PM, K9ZTV wrote:

Pete ...

The K3 is capable of power output on a per-band basis. Any chance you 
have it set for 25 watts on ten meters?


73,

Kent K9ZTV


On Dec 12, 2018, at 1:47 PM, N4ZR  wrote:

Transmitted on my K3 for the first time since the 10-meter contest, 
and it is only showing 25 watts out on the built-in meter into a 
dummy load. Power output setting of the K3 is 100W, and same results 
seen on all bands. What could possibly be going on here? Back to 
Watsonville?


The cruel karma of it all is that *yesterday* I ordered a KPA-1500.

--
73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Suddenly Putting Out Only 25 watts at 100 watts indicated

[Rick WA6NHC]

Make sure the dummy load is connected; the cable is 'good'; that you are 
not routing the serial data via the P3 (as if you were updating 
firmware; there is sometimes a slight stumble in communications 
otherwise) and that your supply is giving appropriate voltages under load.


Try this a few times, it sometimes needs that to pass.  Once it passes, 
save that config, then make sure it passes again.  And again until 
you're satisfied.


Then check the power out at 100W.

Failing that, time to call support.


Rick nhc

On 12/12/2018 1:09 PM, N4ZR wrote:
Ran the TX Gain calibration from the K3 Utility and it failed on 160 
and 80, then aborted because power readings did not converge


73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

On 12/12/2018 3:40 PM, K9ZTV wrote:

Pete ...

The K3 is capable of power output on a per-band basis. Any chance you 
have it set for 25 watts on ten meters?


73,

Kent K9ZTV


On Dec 12, 2018, at 1:47 PM, N4ZR  wrote:

Transmitted on my K3 for the first time since the 10-meter contest, 
and it is only showing 25 watts out on the built-in meter into a 
dummy load. Power output setting of the K3 is 100W, and same results 
seen on all bands. What could possibly be going on here? Back to 
Watsonville?


The cruel karma of it all is that *yesterday* I ordered a KPA-1500.

--
73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Suddenly Putting Out Only 25 watts at 100 watts indicated

[N4ZR]

Ran the TX Gain calibration from the K3 Utility and it failed on 160 and 
80, then aborted because power readings did not converge


73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

On 12/12/2018 3:40 PM, K9ZTV wrote:

Pete ...

The K3 is capable of power output on a per-band basis. Any chance you 
have it set for 25 watts on ten meters?


73,

Kent K9ZTV


On Dec 12, 2018, at 1:47 PM, N4ZR  wrote:

Transmitted on my K3 for the first time since the 10-meter contest, 
and it is only showing 25 watts out on the built-in meter into a 
dummy load. Power output setting of the K3 is 100W, and same results 
seen on all bands. What could possibly be going on here? Back to 
Watsonville?


The cruel karma of it all is that *yesterday* I ordered a KPA-1500.

--
73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

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[Elecraft] FS K3/100 P3 W2

[Ron Durie]

I am listing these for my friend: K4DJJ Dirk.
He uses his KX3 and these are surplus to his needs.

All in Excellent condition; nonsmoking; one owner.
K3/100  $1795S/N: 3514One 2.8khz 8pole filter.No other
options.  
P3 -- $495  No options. 
W2 - $195

If interested, contact K4DJJ Dirk off line at: 828-729-0148 or n6svc at
charter.net

Ron Durie
WB4OOA
Elecraft K-Line
704-843-3681




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Suddenly Putting Out Only 25 watts at 100 watts indicated

[N4ZR]

Sorry, this was on CW. It occurs on all bands.  Is there a test (perhaps 
using TXCAL) that I could do to narrow down the cause?


73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
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On 12/12/2018 3:40 PM, K9ZTV wrote:

Pete ...

The K3 is capable of power output on a per-band basis.  Any chance you have it 
set for 25 watts on ten meters?

73,

Kent  K9ZTV


On Dec 12, 2018, at 1:47 PM, N4ZR  wrote:

Transmitted on my K3 for the first time since the 10-meter contest, and it is 
only showing 25 watts out on the built-in meter into a dummy load. Power output 
setting of the K3 is 100W, and same results seen on all bands. What could 
possibly be going on here?  Back to Watsonville?

The cruel karma of it all is that *yesterday* I ordered a KPA-1500.

--

73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Suddenly Putting Out Only 25 watts at 100 watts indicated

[hawley, charles j jr]

Not enough info, how are you transmitting?

Chuck 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Dec 12, 2018, at 1:47 PM, N4ZR  wrote:
> 
> Transmitted on my K3 for the first time since the 10-meter contest, and it is 
> only showing 25 watts out on the built-in meter into a dummy load. Power 
> output setting of the K3 is 100W, and same results seen on all bands. What 
> could possibly be going on here?  Back to Watsonville?
> 
> The cruel karma of it all is that *yesterday* I ordered a KPA-1500.
> 
> -- 
> 
> 73, Pete N4ZR
> Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
> at , now
> spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
> For spots, please use your favorite
> "retail" DX cluster.
> 
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[Elecraft] K3 Suddenly Putting Out Only 25 watts at 100 watts indicated

[N4ZR]

Transmitted on my K3 for the first time since the 10-meter contest, and 
it is only showing 25 watts out on the built-in meter into a dummy load. 
Power output setting of the K3 is 100W, and same results seen on all 
bands. What could possibly be going on here?  Back to Watsonville?


The cruel karma of it all is that *yesterday* I ordered a KPA-1500.

--

73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

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Re: [Elecraft] newbie kx3 question

[Don Wilhelm]

Rick,

If the ATU has already been tuned to that frequency and antenna, you may 
not hear any clicks.  The ATU remembers the proper L and C values and 
changes to them as you change frequency.
Then when you push the ATU TUNE button, the KX3 see an already low SWR 
and simply exits.


Change the antenna, and you will hear clicking.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/12/2018 6:19 AM, Richard watson wrote:

Good morning listers,
just got my kx3 yesterday and had a quick question,
I had the internal tuner factory installed. Whenever I push the
antenna tune button (connected to a random wire, the relays don't seem
to engage. I am visually impaired and am still learning the hampod as
well. Should I hear something whenever I push the button and if so
what?
thanks and 73 rick

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Re: [Elecraft] FS: Pair of Insignia 4 in. 3-Way Speakers

[Phil Zminda]

The speakers have been sold.

Thanks,

Phil N3ZP
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Re: [Elecraft] newbie kx3 question

[Brian Waterworth]

Is the ATU enabled in the settings menu?   Page 14 of the KX3 User's guide,
right hand column, about half way down the page: The ATU MD menu entry must
be set to AUTO mode.

Yes, you will hear lots of clicking and whirring as the internal relays
select the right LC values.

regards,
Brian
VE3IBW

On Wed, Dec 12, 2018 at 6:22 AM Richard watson <
richard.watson15...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Good morning listers,
> just got my kx3 yesterday and had a quick question,
> I had the internal tuner factory installed. Whenever I push the
> antenna tune button (connected to a random wire, the relays don't seem
> to engage. I am visually impaired and am still learning the hampod as
> well. Should I hear something whenever I push the button and if so
> what?
> thanks and 73 rick
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> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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[Elecraft] newbie kx3 question

[Richard watson]

Good morning listers,
just got my kx3 yesterday and had a quick question,
I had the internal tuner factory installed. Whenever I push the
antenna tune button (connected to a random wire, the relays don't seem
to engage. I am visually impaired and am still learning the hampod as
well. Should I hear something whenever I push the button and if so
what?
thanks and 73 rick
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