Re: [Elecraft] Location of VFO B on the K4
You might try my approach - I have a shelf supported by 2x4's on which my K3 sits. The radio, with its bail extended, points directly at my eyes, the perfect viewing angle. I put a large monitor on the shelf between two K3's and a laptop on the desk in front of the monitor, giving me lots of screen real estate. The K4 will work similarly. The space under the shelf protects paddles, switch boxes, USB hubs, and other small accessories. The shelf can be 1' wide book shelving or custom-cut press-board or plywood to place the rig(s) at an angle, pointing "in" toward the op. Easy-peasy, inexpensive, customizable and, IMHO, ideal. 73, /Rick N6XI -- Rick Tavan Truckee, CA On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 3:56 PM Jim - N4ST wrote: > In the olden days of radio, I think even the main VFO on those big rigs was > further off the desk than VFO B is on the K4. > I know they were when I put the rig on an inclined platform so that the > front panel was facing me better. > ___ > 73, > Jim - N4ST > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions?
Original message From: Bob McGraw K4TAX Date: 5/26/19 9:30 PM (GMT-06:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions? Heck, I know of folks that will go to one of the "big box hardware stores" buy a pressure washer or paint sprayer, do the job they need, take it back as being defective and get their money back. Do check the return policy however. On the other hand, it sure beats buying or renting a piece of seldom used equipment. Of course we as customers pay for this activity under the heading of "shrinkage".73Bob, K4TAX__That's pretty dishonest Bob. It's one thing to purchase a product and find out it's not suitable (RFI).To buy something, use it, and then return it hurts us all. The big box stores force manufacturers to take these back and since they're used, they can't be sold as new and are written off. We all pay for that.I would get some new friends.73,Gary K9GS__Elecraft mailing listHome: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htmPost: mailto:elecr...@mailman.qth.netThis list hosted by: http://www.qsl.netPlease help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S VFO B Knob
I don't know about wrapping the on-panel VFO B knob but since I got a K*Pod I rarely touch it. I was skeptical about the K*Pod when it first came out, but now that I finally have one, it seems indispensable. It sits right next to the keyboard and I use it constantly. For contest running, it's usually set to RIT. For search and pounce, it's usually on VFO A. For SO2V it's usually on VFO B. For ragchewing it's on VFO A until I get an off-freq caller when I switch it to RIT. Smooth! 73, /Rick N6XI -- Rick Tavan Truckee, CA On Fri, May 24, 2019 at 5:51 PM Rich wrote: > I have done some searching to no avail. Is there a rubber cover for > the VFO B knob on K3/s radios? > > Rich > > K3RWN > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Noisy Monitor-Solved
John, That implies that all the noise is coming from the PS! I has always assumed that most of the noise was from the monitor itself! 73s and thanks, Dave (NK7Z) https://www.nk7z.net ARRL Technical Specialist ARRL Volunteer Examiner ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resource On 5/26/19 8:34 PM, John K9UWA wrote: I intentionally purchased a pair of 28" LG Monitors for the ham shack that had 19 volt wall warts. I knew I would have no problem replacing them with a linear power supply. A nice big heavy Lamda 10 amp 0 to 20 volt supply solved the problems. John k9uwa The 28" monitor cost $169.00 about two years ago, and uses a 19V wall wart supply. I bought it for some 3d CAD design work. I think it produces about 2-3 S-units of noise. Maybe when I get some time, I'll try to fix it, but for now, it will be fine for non-radio uses. So, I guess you get what you pay for! 73, Jim KO5V John Goller, K9UWA & Jean Goller, N9PXF Antique Radio Restorations k9...@arrl.net Visit our Web Site at: http://www.JohnJeanAntiqueRadio.com 4836 Ranch Road Leo, IN 46765 USA 1-260-637-6426 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions?
That is how I buy potentially noisy items as well... 73s and thanks, Dave (NK7Z) https://www.nk7z.net ARRL Technical Specialist ARRL Volunteer Examiner ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resource On 5/26/19 7:30 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote: I know it is really aggravating but many places offer a reasonable return policy. If they don't, I won't buy. So..l'd buy one, take it home, use it for a few days, if it is noisy or doesn't do what you wish..take it back for a refund. Do watch for "in store credit" on some merchandise. Heck, I know of folks that will go to one of the "big box hardware stores" buy a pressure washer or paint sprayer, do the job they need, take it back as being defective and get their money back. Do check the return policy however. On the other hand, it sure beats buying or renting a piece of seldom used equipment. Of course we as customers pay for this activity under the heading of "shrinkage". 73 Bob, K4TAX On 5/26/2019 7:53 PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote: I wish there was a list somewhere of monitors that are currently in production and easily purchasable that are known to be quiet on the RF front. I've used the remediation suggestions offered in this thread, and have found them to help but not cure the symptoms I see. Buying and trying monitors seems like it could be a very involved process. Frank k6fod On 5/26/19 1:39 PM, Jim KO5V wrote: Maybe now I can make some headway - or buy a new monitor... __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Noisy Monitor-Solved
I intentionally purchased a pair of 28" LG Monitors for the ham shack that had 19 volt wall warts. I knew I would have no problem replacing them with a linear power supply. A nice big heavy Lamda 10 amp 0 to 20 volt supply solved the problems. John k9uwa > The 28" monitor cost $169.00 about two years ago, and uses a 19V wall wart > supply. I bought it for some 3d CAD design work. I think it produces about 2-3 > S-units of noise. Maybe when I get some time, I'll try to fix it, but for now, > it will be fine for non-radio uses. > > So, I guess you get what you pay for! > > 73, Jim KO5V John Goller, K9UWA & Jean Goller, N9PXF Antique Radio Restorations k9...@arrl.net Visit our Web Site at: http://www.JohnJeanAntiqueRadio.com 4836 Ranch Road Leo, IN 46765 USA 1-260-637-6426 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions?
I know it is really aggravating but many places offer a reasonable return policy. If they don't, I won't buy. So..l'd buy one, take it home, use it for a few days, if it is noisy or doesn't do what you wish..take it back for a refund. Do watch for "in store credit" on some merchandise. Heck, I know of folks that will go to one of the "big box hardware stores" buy a pressure washer or paint sprayer, do the job they need, take it back as being defective and get their money back. Do check the return policy however. On the other hand, it sure beats buying or renting a piece of seldom used equipment. Of course we as customers pay for this activity under the heading of "shrinkage". 73 Bob, K4TAX On 5/26/2019 7:53 PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote: I wish there was a list somewhere of monitors that are currently in production and easily purchasable that are known to be quiet on the RF front. I've used the remediation suggestions offered in this thread, and have found them to help but not cure the symptoms I see. Buying and trying monitors seems like it could be a very involved process. Frank k6fod On 5/26/19 1:39 PM, Jim KO5V wrote: Maybe now I can make some headway - or buy a new monitor... __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Noisy Monitor-Solved
Vendors change suppliers all the time, this insures that a once quiet piece of equipment, stands a good chance of becoming a noisy piece of equipment in the future, or vice versa. Hence why lists don't always work. 73s and thanks, Dave (NK7Z) https://www.nk7z.net ARRL Technical Specialist ARRL Volunteer Examiner ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resource On 5/26/19 6:03 PM, Jim KO5V wrote: Just FYI, the old (quiet) 22" Samsung monitor does not use a wall-wart. The cord goes directly into the body of the monitor. When I bought it in 2008, I think it cost about $350.00. The 28" monitor cost $169.00 about two years ago, and uses a 19V wall wart supply. I bought it for some 3d CAD design work. I think it produces about 2-3 S-units of noise. Maybe when I get some time, I'll try to fix it, but for now, it will be fine for non-radio uses. So, I guess you get what you pay for! 73, Jim KO5V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Noisy Monitor-Solved.
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Re: [Elecraft] Noisy Monitor-Solved
Just FYI, the old (quiet) 22" Samsung monitor does not use a wall-wart. The cord goes directly into the body of the monitor. When I bought it in 2008, I think it cost about $350.00. The 28" monitor cost $169.00 about two years ago, and uses a 19V wall wart supply. I bought it for some 3d CAD design work. I think it produces about 2-3 S-units of noise. Maybe when I get some time, I'll try to fix it, but for now, it will be fine for non-radio uses. So, I guess you get what you pay for! 73, Jim KO5V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Noisy Monitor-Solved.
Jim, Please ID the offending unit for future reference. 73 de Ben W4SC Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions?
I wish there was a list somewhere of monitors that are currently in production and easily purchasable that are known to be quiet on the RF front. I've used the remediation suggestions offered in this thread, and have found them to help but not cure the symptoms I see. Buying and trying monitors seems like it could be a very involved process. Frank k6fod On 5/26/19 1:39 PM, Jim KO5V wrote: Maybe now I can make some headway - or buy a new monitor... __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Noisy Monitor-Solved.
A little late commenting, however: If the power supply is external - replace it. I had a 10" monitor that ran from a 12 VDC wallwart - it was very noisy. Shut the monitor off and it was quiet. So, I brought power to it from my main 12 VDC line and the noise was gone. &^*%$ cheap wallwarts!! Good luck!!! Bill W2BLC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Noisy Monitor-Solved.
Well, I tried to post my solution three times, and I guess it didn't work, so I'm trying a new subject. I remembered that I had a 10-11 year-old, 22" Samsung monitor in the closet. It still has a good picture, and it is VERY quiet. so, that's my solution (for now, anyway). Thanks for all of the suggestions. 73, Jim KO5V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Trees eating wire
Forgot to add. Slit tennis ball on a seam and insert weight. I use 22 pennies. Close slit with hot melt glue. Jim ab3cv On May 26, 2019, at 6:37 PM, Bill Johnson wrote: Jim, I have done that. I am going to use my bow one more time and if that has any glitches will try the Sherrill launcher. Not cheap but is commercial and well liked. 73, Bill K9YEQ https://wrj-tech.com/ -Original Message- From: Jim Miller Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 4:05 PM To: Bill Johnson Cc: Tom Boucher ; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Trees eating wire Always let the weight drop and remove it at ground level before retrieving the line. Highly recommend slick line,tennis ball, and pneumatic launcher with 60 lb spiderwire on an open faced spinning real. Jim ab3cv On May 26, 2019, at 4:36 PM, Bill Johnson wrote: I have had my best success with using a bow and arrow. I drill into the nock and have either a fishing pole and line attached or mount the real on the bow. Open real works best as it creates the least amount of drag, resistance to the arrow. Do check the flight path carefully before letting the arrow loose. I have used a pneumatic plumbing constructed cannon, wrist rocket and other methods. Those stinking weights and round objects, when they get swinging, wrap around the smallest objects in the trees and are a pain. The trees at my place are thick, a forest. However, the arrow goes up and comes straight down. The issue with any of these methods is the projection path including wind drift. Once I lob an arrow and it lands, I disconnect the fishing line from the arrow and then attach another fishing line with a fishing pole, then retrieve the line from the initial fishing reel. It may seem a bit more work, but less danger, and nothing gets lost. Then one can pull from the launching site whatever wire was to be strung. 73, Bill K9YEQ https://wrj-tech.com/ -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On Behalf Of Tom Boucher Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 1:35 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Trees eating wire Wayne's problem with a tree eating his wire reminds me of an incident some years ago when I was attempting to get an antenna halyard over a tall oak tree. I used some braided nylon cord with a probable breaking strain of several hundred pounds, which was attached to a drilled golf ball. My catapult put the ball and cord over a branch somewhat lower than intended so I attempted to pull it back. Of course the inevitable happened and the ball wound itself around the branch. No matter how hard I pulled the cord it wouldn't come. So I wound the cord around a piece of wood and with my heels dug into the ground, gave it my full body weight plus some. Finally it released itself and the golf ball shot towards me hitting me in the right foot and breaking several bones. I had literally shot myself in the foot! I'm just thankful it wasn't 2 or 3 feet up otherwise my voice would now be an octave or so higher. Heard the guys sniggering behind the curtain in the hospital A&E department after I told them I had shot myself with a golf ball. XYL not at all impressed at having to drive me to the salt mine for 6 weeks. Lead weights used by anglers could be even more lethal. Needless to say I don't use that method any more and now use a compressed air device with weighted tennis balls which works a treat! 73, Tom G3OLB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Trees eating wire
Jim, I have done that. I am going to use my bow one more time and if that has any glitches will try the Sherrill launcher. Not cheap but is commercial and well liked. 73, Bill K9YEQ https://wrj-tech.com/ -Original Message- From: Jim Miller Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 4:05 PM To: Bill Johnson Cc: Tom Boucher ; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Trees eating wire Always let the weight drop and remove it at ground level before retrieving the line. Highly recommend slick line,tennis ball, and pneumatic launcher with 60 lb spiderwire on an open faced spinning real. Jim ab3cv On May 26, 2019, at 4:36 PM, Bill Johnson wrote: I have had my best success with using a bow and arrow. I drill into the nock and have either a fishing pole and line attached or mount the real on the bow. Open real works best as it creates the least amount of drag, resistance to the arrow. Do check the flight path carefully before letting the arrow loose. I have used a pneumatic plumbing constructed cannon, wrist rocket and other methods. Those stinking weights and round objects, when they get swinging, wrap around the smallest objects in the trees and are a pain. The trees at my place are thick, a forest. However, the arrow goes up and comes straight down. The issue with any of these methods is the projection path including wind drift. Once I lob an arrow and it lands, I disconnect the fishing line from the arrow and then attach another fishing line with a fishing pole, then retrieve the line from the initial fishing reel. It may seem a bit more work, but less danger, and nothing gets lost. Then one can pull from the launching site whatever wire was to be strung. 73, Bill K9YEQ https://wrj-tech.com/ -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On Behalf Of Tom Boucher Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 1:35 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Trees eating wire Wayne's problem with a tree eating his wire reminds me of an incident some years ago when I was attempting to get an antenna halyard over a tall oak tree. I used some braided nylon cord with a probable breaking strain of several hundred pounds, which was attached to a drilled golf ball. My catapult put the ball and cord over a branch somewhat lower than intended so I attempted to pull it back. Of course the inevitable happened and the ball wound itself around the branch. No matter how hard I pulled the cord it wouldn't come. So I wound the cord around a piece of wood and with my heels dug into the ground, gave it my full body weight plus some. Finally it released itself and the golf ball shot towards me hitting me in the right foot and breaking several bones. I had literally shot myself in the foot! I'm just thankful it wasn't 2 or 3 feet up otherwise my voice would now be an octave or so higher. Heard the guys sniggering behind the curtain in the hospital A&E department after I told them I had shot myself with a golf ball. XYL not at all impressed at having to drive me to the salt mine for 6 weeks. Lead weights used by anglers could be even more lethal. Needless to say I don't use that method any more and now use a compressed air device with weighted tennis balls which works a treat! 73, Tom G3OLB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 and Accessibility
Jim, I feel like a newbie. Only 56 years for me. But I agree. When I haul the K3 to KP2M the only knobs I use when I am on frequency are the AF gain and RIT for those who are off frequency. N2TK, Tony -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On Behalf Of Jim Brown Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 2:29 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 and Accessibility On 5/24/2019 5:00 PM, hwhi...@maine.rr.com wrote: > I suggest you double the size of the radio and change your design criteria. This is exactly the opposite of how I feel about radios -- I'll be 78 in the fall, but I'm still an active guy dragging my gear to portable setups, and my shack is a SO2R contesting setup (single op, two radios). For both reasons, I am VERY happy with the light weight and small footprint of the K3 (as well as it's predecessor, the K2, and relatives, the KX3 and KX2). I don't want big knobs or even a lot of knobs -- when I'm operating, the only knobs I'm using are the gain controls and whatever changes frequency, including RIT or XIT. But what do I know -- I've only been doing it for 63 years. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions?
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[Elecraft] Fw: Re: VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions?
__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions?
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Re: [Elecraft] VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions?
Other than coming up with a fix is just buy a "good" monitor and retire the old one. I have been using two 21-inch Dell monitors bought circa 2008-2010 with no noise problems. Computers are maybe two foot from the radio. Since going to shielded cat-5 computer wiring have few birdies on the K3 or KX3 from the computer(s): Dell i5 Inspiron. Have no ferrites on computer wiring (ac or USB). DC power leads on the monitors have common mode ferrites standard from the factory. I run 25-foot of non-shielded Cat-5 into another room which has router and DSL modem. 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com Dubus-NA Business mail: dubus...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Trees eating wire
Always let the weight drop and remove it at ground level before retrieving the line. Highly recommend slick line,tennis ball, and pneumatic launcher with 60 lb spiderwire on an open faced spinning real. Jim ab3cv On May 26, 2019, at 4:36 PM, Bill Johnson wrote: I have had my best success with using a bow and arrow. I drill into the nock and have either a fishing pole and line attached or mount the real on the bow. Open real works best as it creates the least amount of drag, resistance to the arrow. Do check the flight path carefully before letting the arrow loose. I have used a pneumatic plumbing constructed cannon, wrist rocket and other methods. Those stinking weights and round objects, when they get swinging, wrap around the smallest objects in the trees and are a pain. The trees at my place are thick, a forest. However, the arrow goes up and comes straight down. The issue with any of these methods is the projection path including wind drift. Once I lob an arrow and it lands, I disconnect the fishing line from the arrow and then attach another fishing line with a fishing pole, then retrieve the line from the initial fishing reel. It may seem a bit more work, but less danger, and nothing gets lost. Then one can pull from the launching site whatever wire was to be strung. 73, Bill K9YEQ https://wrj-tech.com/ -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On Behalf Of Tom Boucher Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 1:35 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Trees eating wire Wayne's problem with a tree eating his wire reminds me of an incident some years ago when I was attempting to get an antenna halyard over a tall oak tree. I used some braided nylon cord with a probable breaking strain of several hundred pounds, which was attached to a drilled golf ball. My catapult put the ball and cord over a branch somewhat lower than intended so I attempted to pull it back. Of course the inevitable happened and the ball wound itself around the branch. No matter how hard I pulled the cord it wouldn't come. So I wound the cord around a piece of wood and with my heels dug into the ground, gave it my full body weight plus some. Finally it released itself and the golf ball shot towards me hitting me in the right foot and breaking several bones. I had literally shot myself in the foot! I'm just thankful it wasn't 2 or 3 feet up otherwise my voice would now be an octave or so higher. Heard the guys sniggering behind the curtain in the hospital A&E department after I told them I had shot myself with a golf ball. XYL not at all impressed at having to drive me to the salt mine for 6 weeks. Lead weights used by anglers could be even more lethal. Needless to say I don't use that method any more and now use a compressed air device with weighted tennis balls which works a treat! 73, Tom G3OLB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Fw: Re: VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions?
Thanks to everyone who responded to my post, and to Jim k9YC for sharing the two .pdf links. Maybe now I can make some headway - or buy a new monitor... 73, Jim KO5V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Trees eating wire
I have had my best success with using a bow and arrow. I drill into the nock and have either a fishing pole and line attached or mount the real on the bow. Open real works best as it creates the least amount of drag, resistance to the arrow. Do check the flight path carefully before letting the arrow loose. I have used a pneumatic plumbing constructed cannon, wrist rocket and other methods. Those stinking weights and round objects, when they get swinging, wrap around the smallest objects in the trees and are a pain. The trees at my place are thick, a forest. However, the arrow goes up and comes straight down. The issue with any of these methods is the projection path including wind drift. Once I lob an arrow and it lands, I disconnect the fishing line from the arrow and then attach another fishing line with a fishing pole, then retrieve the line from the initial fishing reel. It may seem a bit more work, but less danger, and nothing gets lost. Then one can pull from the launching site whatever wire was to be strung. 73, Bill K9YEQ https://wrj-tech.com/ -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On Behalf Of Tom Boucher Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 1:35 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Trees eating wire Wayne's problem with a tree eating his wire reminds me of an incident some years ago when I was attempting to get an antenna halyard over a tall oak tree. I used some braided nylon cord with a probable breaking strain of several hundred pounds, which was attached to a drilled golf ball. My catapult put the ball and cord over a branch somewhat lower than intended so I attempted to pull it back. Of course the inevitable happened and the ball wound itself around the branch. No matter how hard I pulled the cord it wouldn't come. So I wound the cord around a piece of wood and with my heels dug into the ground, gave it my full body weight plus some. Finally it released itself and the golf ball shot towards me hitting me in the right foot and breaking several bones. I had literally shot myself in the foot! I'm just thankful it wasn't 2 or 3 feet up otherwise my voice would now be an octave or so higher. Heard the guys sniggering behind the curtain in the hospital A&E department after I told them I had shot myself with a golf ball. XYL not at all impressed at having to drive me to the salt mine for 6 weeks. Lead weights used by anglers could be even more lethal. Needless to say I don't use that method any more and now use a compressed air device with weighted tennis balls which works a treat! 73, Tom G3OLB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions?
Jim KO5V I have a similar problematic LCD monitor. Mine is 27” by Nixeus - the least expensive 27 inch monitor I could find. Two kinds of problems include broadband noise of about 2 to 3 dB across 20 meters and a specific frequency noise of about 3 kHz wide at about 14.250 MHz. Like yours, the noise goes away when it goes to sleep. Like you, ferrite additions have not worked. I have 2 1/2 inch ferrite cores through which I wrapped the power and signal cables. My solution? Turn off the monitor. It is a second monitor, paired to my iMac 27 inches which has no such noise.A future, more expensive solution will be to get a new, better-hopefully monitor. Not the answer you want to hear, but I feel your pain. 73 Hoop K9QJS On May 26, 2019, at 12:15 PM, Jim KO5V wrote: Good afternoon, I have a ~24" LCD monitor that I want to use for logging, to display my panadapter, etc. Unfortunately, it is very noisy on HF. When It goes to sleep, the noise goes away. This is even more irritating because I now have the K2/computer/logging, etc, all working together. I've searched a bit on-line, but so far, I have not found any real solutions (but a lot of "me too" answers, and one suggestion to ditch the radio and make use of the internet...). There are what look to be ferrite beads on each end of the signal cable from the computer to the monitor, and on the monitor end of the power supply's low-voltage line (I assume it's a switching supply). There are no beads on the supply's power cord. All the radio equipment and the computer are using the same AC circuit. The rig and amp are grounded to the station ground, but the computer and monitor are only grounded through the AC supply. I have four clip-on ferrite beads that I've tried on each end of the monitor's two lines, and they make no difference. Does anyone have any suggestions? Maybe I've missed something dumb. I don't mind getting some big cores if necessary, but I would like to hear of someone's success before spending a lot of money trying to "shotgun" the solution, and I really don't want to get a new monitor - but if anyone has a suggestion of a noise-free one, please let me know. Thanks in advance. 73, Jim KO5V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions?
On 5/26/2019 12:15 PM, Jim KO5V wrote: I have a ~24" LCD monitor that I want to use for logging, to display my panadapter, etc. Unfortunately, it is very noisy on HF. This is a very common problem. There are (at least) two heads to the snake. The most common, and easiest to fix, is the power supply if it is a wall wart. Wind multiple turns of the power cable through a #31 Fair-Rite core. The other head of the snake is noise from within the monitor itself, which radiates directly from it's own wiring and from the video cable. No fix for what radiates from it's own wiring, but multiple turns of the video cable around a #31 Fair-Rite core will kill that part of the noise. Another very good solution to the power supply component of the problem is to replace the noisy power supply with a quiet one -- namely, a vintage linear supply with a transformer, rectifier, and filter. There's a lot more detailed advice on this on my website. http://k9yc.com/KillingReceiveNoise.pdf http://k9yc.com/KillingRXNoiseVisalia.pdf 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Trees eating wire
I thought the round-headed Charlie Brown had thoroughly researched the "Trees Eating Things" problem ... 73, Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW Sparks NV DM09dn Washoe County On 5/26/2019 12:04 PM, Walter Underwood wrote: I was on a 50 mile Scout trek and two Scouts got a bear-bagging rope with a rock tied to it stuck in a tree. They pulled as hard as they could and it shot back and hit one of them in the neck. Luckily, it only hit soft tissue, but he was in shock and couldn’t turn his head for a couple of days. There is a kind of rope which is specifically designed to not get stuck in trees, “arborist throw line”. These days, I exclusively use that for bear bagging and for field antennas. Arborists also have throw weights for trees, though I don’t take those on hikes. http://www.wesspur.com/throw-line/zing-it-throw-line.html wunder K6WRU Walter Underwood CM87wj http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 and Accessibility
If the K3 is too lightweight, one could always go retro. My SX28 weighed in right at 100 lbs and it was only a receiver. The DX-100 was yet another 100. On the serious side, I'm approaching 79 next month and I can still manage the K3 buttons although I wouldn't want them any smaller or closer than they are. The KPod helps a lot, and reading the K3's legends is becoming an issue for me. On the other hand, an FT1000MP won't fit on my desk but a K3 does. 73, Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW Sparks NV DM09dn Washoe County On 5/26/2019 11:55 AM, Rick Tavan wrote: Wow. Your preference seems to be in a minority, Harry, although I have to admit that my opinion is subjective and based mainly on what I've read on this reflector which may well be biased by folks like me who *like* the K3. I think Elecraft retained in the K4 many of the design points that made the K3 very successful and enduring, including its light weight and small size which are two major complaints on your list. So it may be a chocolate vs. vanilla situation - some people (like me) value those characteristics while other people (like you) dislike them. Of course, you're right that many prospective buyers are aging and some may come to dislike smaller knobs, I for one still find the knobs and buttons plenty big enough and I'm now 70 years old. I once measured the K3 button size and spacing against my prior favorite rig, the FT-1000MP, and found them practically the same. I never had trouble operating the K3 and its menu structure was logical, rarely needed, and self-documenting. The new K4 screen is plenty large enough for me and comparable to many current, competitive radios'. It can also be blown up to as large as you like through the addition of an in expensive, external, HDMI monitor or a tablet. I've seen it and it was gorgeous. So you're certainly correct that some people like big, heavy radios with "substantial" knobs and they may not buy the K4. Others like radios they can lift without back strain, carry to vacation homes and field sites, operate remotely with minimal external hardware, and expect to survive through upgrades for a decade. Many of them, like me, have been K3 fans for 12 years or so and will be delighted to buy the K4. The market will decide. I think the K4 will be highly successful and I'm rooting for it. We'll see. 73, /Rick N6XI -- Rick Tavan Truckee, CA On Fri, May 24, 2019 at 5:00 PM wrote: Wayne and interested others, Way back when, I bought a loaded K3. I believe the S/N was around 4K? It was back in the day when almost every DXpedition was using K3's so it was obviously the radio to own. (Around 2009?) It was at the top of the Sherwood ratings. Owner's bragged, incessantly, about its Sherwood rating. After a period of time I grew to really dislike that radio. The audio was just plain awful and the man/machine interface was the worst I have ever seen. I detest bar graphs. I suppose if you play at ham radio 8 hours a day, seven days a week, the interface is "normal", even usable. For those of us who might get on the air for an hour or two a week, the controls were a mystery. Tap this button to do this, hold the same button for three seconds to do that, the list goes on. NOTHING was intuitive. It did not help that it was an incredibly ugly, too light and unsubstantial, radio. It's looks may have been barely acceptable when first introduced but it aged badly, rapidly. Over a ten year period it's price has become a real problem. There were many, many questions on this reflector regarding the controls, the same questions about the same controls, over and over and over again. That should have been a very large hint that the controls should be massively improved in any new radio. I sold my K3 and moved on to the big Japanese three, ANAN, and Flex, over the years. All had many, fairly easy to understand, controls. All were far, far more usable than the K3. Both the ANAN and Flex service departments are as good as Elecraft's. Eventually I left the Elecraft reflector, and that is a whole other story. Last week the K4 was announced so I rejoined the reflector. It sounded like a really great radio. Sadly, I have concluded it will be a dud, mostly because it is designed with the same philosophy as the K3 was, a small, compact, easily transportable radio, "a hallmark of Elecraft transceivers", to quote you, Wayne. From all that I have read, the controls will be even more complex. Ham radio operators are an aging group. Some suffer from the "fat finger" syndrome, others have vision problems, to name just two. The last thing they need or want is a tiny radio with minimal controls, each of which serves two or three or four or five purposes. They favor a radio that has many single or dual purpose knobs. They want bigger screens, the K4 screens are too small. I suggest you double the size of the radio and change your design criteria. Enlarging the physical size would not be a huge cost driver. Remember who your cust
Re: [Elecraft] Trees eating wire
I bought a 12 ounce throw weight for arborists from SherrillTree.com but I didn't get any slick line (what the pros call it.) Beware if you use SherrillTree; once they have your address, you'll never be shut of them. On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 3:04 PM Walter Underwood wrote: > I was on a 50 mile Scout trek and two Scouts got a bear-bagging rope with > a rock tied to it stuck in a tree. They pulled as hard as they could and it > shot back and hit one of them in the neck. Luckily, it only hit soft > tissue, but he was in shock and couldn’t turn his head for a couple of days. > > There is a kind of rope which is specifically designed to not get stuck in > trees, “arborist throw line”. These days, I exclusively use that for bear > bagging and for field antennas. Arborists also have throw weights for > trees, though I don’t take those on hikes. > > http://www.wesspur.com/throw-line/zing-it-throw-line.html > > wunder > K6WRU > Walter Underwood > CM87wj > http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog) > > > On May 26, 2019, at 11:35 AM, Tom Boucher wrote: > > > > Wayne's problem with a tree eating his wire reminds me of an incident > some > > years ago when I was attempting to get an antenna halyard over a tall oak > > tree. I used some braided nylon cord with a probable breaking strain of > > several hundred pounds, which was attached to a drilled golf ball. > > > > My catapult put the ball and cord over a branch somewhat lower than > > intended so I attempted to pull it back. Of course the inevitable > happened > > and the ball wound itself around the branch. No matter how hard I pulled > > the cord it wouldn't come. So I wound the cord around a piece of wood and > > with my heels dug into the ground, gave it my full body weight plus some. > > > > Finally it released itself and the golf ball shot towards me hitting me > in > > the right foot and breaking several bones. I had literally shot myself in > > the foot! I'm just thankful it wasn't 2 or 3 feet up otherwise my voice > > would now be an octave or so higher. > > > > Heard the guys sniggering behind the curtain in the hospital A&E > department > > after I told them I had shot myself with a golf ball. XYL not at all > > impressed at having to drive me to the salt mine for 6 weeks. > > > > Lead weights used by anglers could be even more lethal. > > > > Needless to say I don't use that method any more and now use a compressed > > air device with weighted tennis balls which works a treat! > > > > 73, > > Tom G3OLB > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- 72, Rich Hurd / WC3T / DMR: 3142737 Northampton County RACES, EPA-ARRL Public Information Officer for Scouting Latitude: 40.761621 Longitude: -75.288988 (40°45.68' N 75°17.33' W) Grid: *FN20is* __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions?
My experience with some cheaper LCD monitors is that the backlight brightness is controlled by a badly designed PWM circuit. With my parents' Samsung, the noise is even audible if you're sitting next to it. The only solution I've found, if indeed this is what's giving you trouble, is to turn the backlight brightness up to 100%. Even at 99% the PWM kicks in and makes a hell of a racket. Nick On Sun, 26 May 2019 at 12:16, Jim KO5V wrote: > Good afternoon, > > I have a ~24" LCD monitor that I want to use for logging, to display my > panadapter, etc. Unfortunately, it is very noisy on HF. When It goes to > sleep, the noise goes away. This is even more irritating because I now have > the K2/computer/logging, etc, all working together. I've searched a bit > on-line, but so far, I have not found any real solutions (but a lot of "me > too" answers, and one suggestion to ditch the radio and make use of the > internet...). > > There are what look to be ferrite beads on each end of the signal cable > from the computer to the monitor, and on the monitor end of the power > supply's low-voltage line (I assume it's a switching supply). There are no > beads on the supply's power cord. > > All the radio equipment and the computer are using the same AC circuit. > The rig and amp are grounded to the station ground, but the computer and > monitor are only grounded through the AC supply. > > I have four clip-on ferrite beads that I've tried on each end of the > monitor's two lines, and they make no difference. > > Does anyone have any suggestions? Maybe I've missed something dumb. I > don't mind getting some big cores if necessary, but I would like to hear of > someone's success before spending a lot of money trying to "shotgun" the > solution, and I really don't want to get a new monitor - but if anyone has > a suggestion of a noise-free one, please let me know. > > Thanks in advance. 73, > > Jim KO5V > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- *N6OL* Saying something doesn't make it true. Belief in something doesn't make it real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not worth supporting. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2/100 RF power indication not working - Blown D16 & D17?
Bill, Yes, as long as the KPA100 is physically connected to the base K2, its wattmeter will be used for power control. The base K2 provides power to the critical circuits and MCU in the KPA100 even though the PA is turned off in the menu or not powered via the APP connector. You MUST connect the antenna/dummy load to the KPA100 SO-239 ANT jack - you cannot use the base K2 BNC ANT jack unless you physically remove and disconnect the KPA100. If you try, the base K2 will think there is no power being produced and will increase drive to maximum - as high as 19 watts uncontrolled power output will result no matter where you set the power control. 73, Don W3FPR On 5/26/2019 2:56 PM, Bill Coleman wrote: So, if you turn the KPA100 off via the menu, the KPA100 SWR bridge is still used in any case? I’ll plan to add 50-100 kOhm resistors across the output, as you suggested. I’m also going to re-do the calibration of both SWR meters, just make sure no damage was done to the KAT100. On May 25, 2019, at 1:52 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: I only partially answered the question about when each wattmeter is used. If the KAT100 is connected to a QRP K2 (KPA100 physically removed) through a KIO2, then the KAT100 wattmeter will be used for power control and SWR display in the K2 display. As long as the KPA100 is physically connected, its wattmeter is used for power control and also display of SWR on the K2. 73, Don W3FPR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions?
Good afternoon, I have a ~24" LCD monitor that I want to use for logging, to display my panadapter, etc. Unfortunately, it is very noisy on HF. When It goes to sleep, the noise goes away. This is even more irritating because I now have the K2/computer/logging, etc, all working together. I've searched a bit on-line, but so far, I have not found any real solutions (but a lot of "me too" answers, and one suggestion to ditch the radio and make use of the internet...). There are what look to be ferrite beads on each end of the signal cable from the computer to the monitor, and on the monitor end of the power supply's low-voltage line (I assume it's a switching supply). There are no beads on the supply's power cord. All the radio equipment and the computer are using the same AC circuit. The rig and amp are grounded to the station ground, but the computer and monitor are only grounded through the AC supply. I have four clip-on ferrite beads that I've tried on each end of the monitor's two lines, and they make no difference. Does anyone have any suggestions? Maybe I've missed something dumb. I don't mind getting some big cores if necessary, but I would like to hear of someone's success before spending a lot of money trying to "shotgun" the solution, and I really don't want to get a new monitor - but if anyone has a suggestion of a noise-free one, please let me know. Thanks in advance. 73, Jim KO5V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 and Accessibility
On 5/26/2019 11:55 AM, Rick Tavan wrote: I never had trouble operating the K3 and its menu structure was logical, rarely needed, and self-documenting. The new K4 screen is plenty large enough for me and comparable to many current, competitive radios'. It can also be blown up to as large as you like through the addition of an in expensive, external, HDMI monitor or a tablet. I've seen it and it was gorgeous. In addition to being a very smart engineer, Rick is a great operator who has competed in several WRTCs. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Trees eating wire
I was on a 50 mile Scout trek and two Scouts got a bear-bagging rope with a rock tied to it stuck in a tree. They pulled as hard as they could and it shot back and hit one of them in the neck. Luckily, it only hit soft tissue, but he was in shock and couldn’t turn his head for a couple of days. There is a kind of rope which is specifically designed to not get stuck in trees, “arborist throw line”. These days, I exclusively use that for bear bagging and for field antennas. Arborists also have throw weights for trees, though I don’t take those on hikes. http://www.wesspur.com/throw-line/zing-it-throw-line.html wunder K6WRU Walter Underwood CM87wj http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog) > On May 26, 2019, at 11:35 AM, Tom Boucher wrote: > > Wayne's problem with a tree eating his wire reminds me of an incident some > years ago when I was attempting to get an antenna halyard over a tall oak > tree. I used some braided nylon cord with a probable breaking strain of > several hundred pounds, which was attached to a drilled golf ball. > > My catapult put the ball and cord over a branch somewhat lower than > intended so I attempted to pull it back. Of course the inevitable happened > and the ball wound itself around the branch. No matter how hard I pulled > the cord it wouldn't come. So I wound the cord around a piece of wood and > with my heels dug into the ground, gave it my full body weight plus some. > > Finally it released itself and the golf ball shot towards me hitting me in > the right foot and breaking several bones. I had literally shot myself in > the foot! I'm just thankful it wasn't 2 or 3 feet up otherwise my voice > would now be an octave or so higher. > > Heard the guys sniggering behind the curtain in the hospital A&E department > after I told them I had shot myself with a golf ball. XYL not at all > impressed at having to drive me to the salt mine for 6 weeks. > > Lead weights used by anglers could be even more lethal. > > Needless to say I don't use that method any more and now use a compressed > air device with weighted tennis balls which works a treat! > > 73, > Tom G3OLB > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 and Accessibility
Wow. Your preference seems to be in a minority, Harry, although I have to admit that my opinion is subjective and based mainly on what I've read on this reflector which may well be biased by folks like me who *like* the K3. I think Elecraft retained in the K4 many of the design points that made the K3 very successful and enduring, including its light weight and small size which are two major complaints on your list. So it may be a chocolate vs. vanilla situation - some people (like me) value those characteristics while other people (like you) dislike them. Of course, you're right that many prospective buyers are aging and some may come to dislike smaller knobs, I for one still find the knobs and buttons plenty big enough and I'm now 70 years old. I once measured the K3 button size and spacing against my prior favorite rig, the FT-1000MP, and found them practically the same. I never had trouble operating the K3 and its menu structure was logical, rarely needed, and self-documenting. The new K4 screen is plenty large enough for me and comparable to many current, competitive radios'. It can also be blown up to as large as you like through the addition of an in expensive, external, HDMI monitor or a tablet. I've seen it and it was gorgeous. So you're certainly correct that some people like big, heavy radios with "substantial" knobs and they may not buy the K4. Others like radios they can lift without back strain, carry to vacation homes and field sites, operate remotely with minimal external hardware, and expect to survive through upgrades for a decade. Many of them, like me, have been K3 fans for 12 years or so and will be delighted to buy the K4. The market will decide. I think the K4 will be highly successful and I'm rooting for it. We'll see. 73, /Rick N6XI On Fri, May 24, 2019 at 5:00 PM wrote: > Wayne and interested others, > > Way back when, I bought a loaded K3. I believe the S/N was around 4K? It > was back in the day when almost every DXpedition was using K3's so it was > obviously the radio to own. (Around 2009?) It was at the top of the > Sherwood ratings. Owner's bragged, incessantly, about its Sherwood rating. > > After a period of time I grew to really dislike that radio. The audio was > just plain awful and the man/machine interface was the worst I have ever > seen. I detest bar graphs. I suppose if you play at ham radio 8 hours a > day, seven days a week, the interface is "normal", even usable. For those > of us who might get on the air for an hour or two a week, the controls were > a mystery. Tap this button to do this, hold the same button for three > seconds to do that, the list goes on. NOTHING was intuitive. It did not > help that it was an incredibly ugly, too light and unsubstantial, radio. > It's looks may have been barely acceptable when first introduced but it > aged badly, rapidly. Over a ten year period it's price has become a real > problem. > > There were many, many questions on this reflector regarding the controls, > the same questions about the same controls, over and over and over again. > That should have been a very large hint that the controls should be > massively improved in any new radio. > > I sold my K3 and moved on to the big Japanese three, ANAN, and Flex, over > the years. All had many, fairly easy to understand, controls. All were far, > far more usable than the K3. Both the ANAN and Flex service departments are > as good as Elecraft's. > > Eventually I left the Elecraft reflector, and that is a whole other > story. > > Last week the K4 was announced so I rejoined the reflector. It sounded > like a really great radio. Sadly, I have concluded it will be a dud, mostly > because it is designed with the same philosophy as the K3 was, a small, > compact, easily transportable radio, "a hallmark of Elecraft transceivers", > to quote you, Wayne. From all that I have read, the controls will be even > more complex. > > Ham radio operators are an aging group. Some suffer from the "fat finger" > syndrome, others have vision problems, to name just two. The last thing > they need or want is a tiny radio with minimal controls, each of which > serves two or three or four or five purposes. They favor a radio that has > many single or dual purpose knobs. They want bigger screens, the K4 screens > are too small. > > I suggest you double the size of the radio and change your design > criteria. Enlarging the physical size would not be a huge cost driver. > Remember who your customers are. > > And when the Flex 6700 kicked the K3 out of first place in the Sherwood > ratings in 2014, the Koolaid drinkers on this reflector were heard to say, > "People put too much faith in numbers". Hypocrisy is thy name. I haven't > stopped laughing. > > This email pertains to only the second and third paragraphs of Wayne's > reply below. > > I wish Elecraft well with the K4 but I really think your minimalist/too > complex way of designing needs to change. You've probably already guessed > tha
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 and Accessibility
Wow. Your preference seems to be in a minority, Harry, although I have to admit that my opinion is subjective and based mainly on what I've read on this reflector which may well be biased by folks like me who *like* the K3. I think Elecraft retained in the K4 many of the design points that made the K3 very successful and enduring, including its light weight and small size which are two major complaints on your list. So it may be a chocolate vs. vanilla situation - some people (like me) value those characteristics while other people (like you) dislike them. Of course, you're right that many prospective buyers are aging and some may come to dislike smaller knobs, I for one still find the knobs and buttons plenty big enough and I'm now 70 years old. I once measured the K3 button size and spacing against my prior favorite rig, the FT-1000MP, and found them practically the same. I never had trouble operating the K3 and its menu structure was logical, rarely needed, and self-documenting. The new K4 screen is plenty large enough for me and comparable to many current, competitive radios'. It can also be blown up to as large as you like through the addition of an in expensive, external, HDMI monitor or a tablet. I've seen it and it was gorgeous. So you're certainly correct that some people like big, heavy radios with "substantial" knobs and they may not buy the K4. Others like radios they can lift without back strain, carry to vacation homes and field sites, operate remotely with minimal external hardware, and expect to survive through upgrades for a decade. Many of them, like me, have been K3 fans for 12 years or so and will be delighted to buy the K4. The market will decide. I think the K4 will be highly successful and I'm rooting for it. We'll see. 73, /Rick N6XI -- Rick Tavan Truckee, CA On Fri, May 24, 2019 at 5:00 PM wrote: > Wayne and interested others, > > Way back when, I bought a loaded K3. I believe the S/N was around 4K? It > was back in the day when almost every DXpedition was using K3's so it was > obviously the radio to own. (Around 2009?) It was at the top of the > Sherwood ratings. Owner's bragged, incessantly, about its Sherwood rating. > > After a period of time I grew to really dislike that radio. The audio was > just plain awful and the man/machine interface was the worst I have ever > seen. I detest bar graphs. I suppose if you play at ham radio 8 hours a > day, seven days a week, the interface is "normal", even usable. For those > of us who might get on the air for an hour or two a week, the controls were > a mystery. Tap this button to do this, hold the same button for three > seconds to do that, the list goes on. NOTHING was intuitive. It did not > help that it was an incredibly ugly, too light and unsubstantial, radio. > It's looks may have been barely acceptable when first introduced but it > aged badly, rapidly. Over a ten year period it's price has become a real > problem. > > There were many, many questions on this reflector regarding the controls, > the same questions about the same controls, over and over and over again. > That should have been a very large hint that the controls should be > massively improved in any new radio. > > I sold my K3 and moved on to the big Japanese three, ANAN, and Flex, over > the years. All had many, fairly easy to understand, controls. All were far, > far more usable than the K3. Both the ANAN and Flex service departments are > as good as Elecraft's. > > Eventually I left the Elecraft reflector, and that is a whole other > story. > > Last week the K4 was announced so I rejoined the reflector. It sounded > like a really great radio. Sadly, I have concluded it will be a dud, mostly > because it is designed with the same philosophy as the K3 was, a small, > compact, easily transportable radio, "a hallmark of Elecraft transceivers", > to quote you, Wayne. From all that I have read, the controls will be even > more complex. > > Ham radio operators are an aging group. Some suffer from the "fat finger" > syndrome, others have vision problems, to name just two. The last thing > they need or want is a tiny radio with minimal controls, each of which > serves two or three or four or five purposes. They favor a radio that has > many single or dual purpose knobs. They want bigger screens, the K4 screens > are too small. > > I suggest you double the size of the radio and change your design > criteria. Enlarging the physical size would not be a huge cost driver. > Remember who your customers are. > > And when the Flex 6700 kicked the K3 out of first place in the Sherwood > ratings in 2014, the Koolaid drinkers on this reflector were heard to say, > "People put too much faith in numbers". Hypocrisy is thy name. I haven't > stopped laughing. > > This email pertains to only the second and third paragraphs of Wayne's > reply below. > > I wish Elecraft well with the K4 but I really think your minimalist/too > complex way of designing needs to change. You've pr
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2/100 RF power indication not working - Blown D16 & D17?
So, if you turn the KPA100 off via the menu, the KPA100 SWR bridge is still used in any case? I’ll plan to add 50-100 kOhm resistors across the output, as you suggested. I’m also going to re-do the calibration of both SWR meters, just make sure no damage was done to the KAT100. > On May 25, 2019, at 1:52 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > > I only partially answered the question about when each wattmeter is used. > If the KAT100 is connected to a QRP K2 (KPA100 physically removed) through a > KIO2, then the KAT100 wattmeter will be used for power control and SWR > display in the K2 display. > > As long as the KPA100 is physically connected, its wattmeter is used for > power control and also display of SWR on the K2. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > Bill, > > Both wattmeters (KPA100 and KAT100) are in-line at the same time. With the > KPA100 installed the KAT100 wattmeter is only used to calculate the SWR and > use that value to light the SWR bargraph. But otherwise they are electrically > equal. > > Why the KPA100 diodes get zapped while the KAT100 ones are often unscathed is > a question I do not have an answer for - it may have something to do with the > physical placement of the toroid and the diodes. The KAT100 has a greater > groundplane area around the toroid and diodes, and I believe that has > something to do with it. > > I would suggest that you do something like putting a non-inductive resistor > from the KPA100 SO-239 jack to ground to bleed off residual static. I have > used 3 watt 47k resistors successfully for that purpose. > While you are at it, put one across each ANT jack in the KAT100 as well - if > you have the KAT100-1, you can easily solder them on the bottom of the board > - with the KAT100-2, it is not difficult to solder the resistors directly > across the SO-239 jacks. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 5/25/2019 1:24 PM, Bill Coleman wrote: >> Don, I have one question. >> >> This is the second time my K2/100 has completely toasted D16 and D17. I also >> have a KAT100 connected at the same time, which has virtually identical SWR >> bridge. >> >> How is it that a static discharge can destroy D16 and D17, but the diodes D1 >> and D2 in the KAT100 are unaffected? >> >> With the K2/100 / KAT100 combo, at which time are each of the SWR bridges >> used? >> >> > > Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Trees eating wire
Wayne's problem with a tree eating his wire reminds me of an incident some years ago when I was attempting to get an antenna halyard over a tall oak tree. I used some braided nylon cord with a probable breaking strain of several hundred pounds, which was attached to a drilled golf ball. My catapult put the ball and cord over a branch somewhat lower than intended so I attempted to pull it back. Of course the inevitable happened and the ball wound itself around the branch. No matter how hard I pulled the cord it wouldn't come. So I wound the cord around a piece of wood and with my heels dug into the ground, gave it my full body weight plus some. Finally it released itself and the golf ball shot towards me hitting me in the right foot and breaking several bones. I had literally shot myself in the foot! I'm just thankful it wasn't 2 or 3 feet up otherwise my voice would now be an octave or so higher. Heard the guys sniggering behind the curtain in the hospital A&E department after I told them I had shot myself with a golf ball. XYL not at all impressed at having to drive me to the salt mine for 6 weeks. Lead weights used by anglers could be even more lethal. Needless to say I don't use that method any more and now use a compressed air device with weighted tennis balls which works a treat! 73, Tom G3OLB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 and Accessibility
On 5/24/2019 5:00 PM, hwhi...@maine.rr.com wrote: I suggest you double the size of the radio and change your design criteria. This is exactly the opposite of how I feel about radios -- I'll be 78 in the fall, but I'm still an active guy dragging my gear to portable setups, and my shack is a SO2R contesting setup (single op, two radios). For both reasons, I am VERY happy with the light weight and small footprint of the K3 (as well as it's predecessor, the K2, and relatives, the KX3 and KX2). I don't want big knobs or even a lot of knobs -- when I'm operating, the only knobs I'm using are the gain controls and whatever changes frequency, including RIT or XIT. But what do I know -- I've only been doing it for 63 years. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Help with K3S upgrades
(Sorry but could not resist) I have my K3 with TCXO03 and EXREF referenced to 10-MHz (OCXO +/- 5 E-12) and check it with my EIP538 Counter with ext ref to a +/- 5 E-11 Rubidium. Then transmit and check frequency - done! At 28-MHz I am usually within 2-Hz (and obviously that gets better at lower frequencies). http://www.kl7uw.com/Rubidium.htm http://www.kl7uw.com/K3EXREF.htm WWV signal not strong enough or reliable, here. Rubidium only beat by GPSDO as reference. Not your usual HF station equipment, but then I mostly do VHF - mw. 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com Dubus-NA Business mail: dubus...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Macro programming odditys
In addition to my prior question, I've noticed an oddity when using macros, and wonder if anyone has a resolution: When I recall frequency/mode data from a channel, sometimes (but not always) the cwt indicator will pop up. Also every now and then rit will turn on. Neither of these seem to be related to any particular band, mode or channel number. My installed firmware is 5.14 for the MCU, 1.19 for the FPF and 2.83 for the DSP1. My K3 serial is 89xx. Anyone see this or have any hints to a resolution? Kurt WA6YDQ Kurt Theis https://landfallnet.blogspot.com theis.k...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Settings for CW decoder in K3
A moderate bandwidth like 400 Hz will also help provide good decoding. 73, Don W3FPR On 5/26/2019 9:51 AM, Nr4c wrote: First, press SPOT to “ zero-beat” the signal. Then adjust the threshold so that the CWT bar is flashing with the signal. This should work. Sent from my iPhone ...nr4c. bill On May 25, 2019, at 11:03 PM, Ignacy wrote: I am trying to use the CW decoder in K3 to help copy fast exchanges. It is hit and miss. The CW decoder in KX3 is better and so is the external CW Decoder by WD6CNF (spkr to MIC). Ignacy, NO9E -- Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Help with K3S upgrades
Good advice!! I'll redo the procedure after the radio has been in use for an hour. I don't usually have the LCD illuminated because of the lighting at my desk - does the display contribute that much heat? -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On Behalf Of Mike Harris via Elecraft Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 6:10 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help with K3S upgrades Agreed. I've have the external ref module which actually measures the TCXO frequency and on my K3 the drift is pretty close to over after 60 minutes. I've tracked it all the way to four hours. It is useful to keep an eye on the front panel temp (DISP - FP). The TXCO is located in close order with the front panel and that influences the drift. Mine usually tops out at 37 to 39C. Regards, Mike VP8NO On 25/05/2019 17:24, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote: > Glad you found the information of assistance.I suggest a bit > longer warm up than 30 minutes, but for starters, 30 minutes is OK. > I usually go for 1 hr to 2 hrs in a temperature stable environment. > But...that's just me. > > 73 > > Bob, K4TAX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Settings for CW decoder in K3
First, press SPOT to “ zero-beat” the signal. Then adjust the threshold so that the CWT bar is flashing with the signal. This should work. Sent from my iPhone ...nr4c. bill > On May 25, 2019, at 11:03 PM, Ignacy wrote: > > I am trying to use the CW decoder in K3 to help copy fast exchanges. It is > hit and miss. The CW decoder in KX3 is better and so is the external CW > Decoder by WD6CNF (spkr to MIC). > Ignacy, NO9E > > > > -- > Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuner
Don Thanks On 2019/05/26 21:25, Don Wilhelm wrote: The KAT100 ATU needs the control signals from the base K2 to turn on and function. So the answer is that it will only function with the K2. Yoou might consider the KAT500. 73, Don W3FPR On 5/26/2019 5:39 AM, Yoshida Akira wrote: Hi all Does KAT100 ATU work with transceiver other than K2 ? Thanks in advance -- 73 de aki JA1NLX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuner
The KAT100 ATU needs the control signals from the base K2 to turn on and function. So the answer is that it will only function with the K2. Yoou might consider the KAT500. 73, Don W3FPR On 5/26/2019 5:39 AM, Yoshida Akira wrote: Hi all Does KAT100 ATU work with transceiver other than K2 ? Thanks in advance __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT100 Tuner
Hi all Does KAT100 ATU work with transceiver other than K2 ? Thanks in advance -- 73 de aki JA1NLX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
