Re: [Elecraft] New (second-hand) K2 owner, what now?

[Don Wilhelm]

Daniel,

All upgrades are included in all K2s after serial number 4300.  The 
firmware should work fine.  If you want to check the firmware level, 
hold any button while powering on and the MCU and KIOC levels will be 
briefly displayed - the latest is 2.04r/1.09.


Since the KSB2 is installed, you need to know how the microphone 
configuration header is wired.  If the prior owner sent a microphone 
with the K2, then just use that one - or if he told you which microphone 
was used with it, get a similar microphone and use it.


If you have no microphone information, you will have to disassemble the 
K2 to get to the back of the Front Panel to see how it is wired. 
Guidance for how to disassemble the K2 is given at 
https://www.qsl.net/wy3a/Replace_K2_Headphone_Jack.htm.  You do not need 
to replace the headphone jack, but the disassembly of the K2 is the same 
as in that article.
The microphone configuration header wiring for various microphones is 
shown in the KSB2 manual - download it from Elecraft if you do not have 
a paper copy.


As for other things, you may want to touch up the IF filter alignment, 
but if it works, I would leave that for later after you become familiar 
with the K2.  You will need to use the internal counter probe to do the 
IF filter alignment.  Elecraft does have a kit of parts for the probe if 
you did not receive one with the K2 (it may be inside the K2).


Yes, the KDSP2 has been discontinued.

You will need to construct the special cable shown in the KIO2 manual to 
have PC to K2 communications.  Do NOT plug a standard serial port into 
the K2 AUX IO connector - it contains internal K2 signal lines as well 
as 3 RS-232 signals.  Using a standard serial cable can cause damage to 
the K2 and possibly the serial port.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/17/2019 6:25 PM, Daniel Solano Gómez wrote:

Hello, all,

My name is Daniel, AG5UT, and I recently purchased a second-hand K2 (#5240) as 
my first HF rig.  I believe it’s in good working condition—I haved been able to 
successfully confirm it transmits, but have yet to have a QSO.  It has the 
following options installed:

* KSB2 (1.08b)
* KAT2 (1.07)
* KIO2 (1.09)
* K160M

I have purchased the KBT2, since I like the idea of taking this car camping and 
being able to operate without having to be plugged in.

So, I have a few questions:

1. It seems like since it’s a later serial number, so I shouldn’t need to worry 
about doing any upgrades of the main system.  Is this right?

2. I think I also have the latest firmware versions, is this correct?


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[Elecraft] No Output from K3 on Digital Modes - SOLVED

[k2te]

I opened N1MM+ to check operation with RTTY in the hope that if it
worked, its settings may be a clue to what was wrong for the other
soundcard-controlled digital modes.  I initially noticed the RTTY window
would populate what I sent but still no power out.  On a hunch I pushed
the XMIT (PTT) button to force the K3 into transmit and sent a message. 
This time I got power out and heard the RTTY signal in the headphones.  I
then held the VOX side of the BAND button to activate the VOX, selected a
message, and it worked.

I opened WSJT-X, picked a frequency, made sure the VOX is on, and it now
works.  One of the pitfalls of small transceivers with many
multi-function buttons that require specific timing to activate the
different functions is its easy to screw things up.  Apparently I was
manually changing bands while operating WSJF-X and held the button too
long, thus shutting off VOX.  With no warning banner (Do you want to shut
off VOX?) or a momentary flashing of the VOX text on the K3 display to
notify me, I never noticed it was off.

Tnx to those who pitched it with suggestions.  

Lesson learned for digital modes - make sure VOX is on! 

73 de Ed


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Re: [Elecraft] New (second-hand) K2 owner, what now?

[EricJ]

Hi Daniel,

I'll let others handle the bulk of your questions.  I have two K2's (s/n 
567 and 6911). One QRP, the other with a KPA100. One with the KAF2 and 
the other with the KDSP2. I highly recommend the KAF2. For me, it has 
been very effective. With the KDSP2, I have to be retrained on how to 
use it if I take a lunch break. It works well when I get it set up (that 
was a major undertaking itself), then if I didn't use it, I'd always 
have to look everything up. The KAF2 just works.


The KPA100 is a good choice and works seamlessly with the K2 
(obviously), but if I were considering a KX3 later, I might get the 
KXPA-100 instead. The KPA100 is only good with the K2. You can put it in 
a separate case with the KAT100 tuner like KA4FRH and I did, but it 
still requires the K2 to function.


I'd take KA4FRH's advice on calibration. If it seems to work OK, just 
start using it. Unless something is obviously amiss, don't worry about 
calibration. Once you've used it for awhile, do the calibration with a 
little experience behind you. You'll be better equipped to understand 
what you're doing with the calibration, and know what you want.


Good luck with it. The K2 is still a fine rig for HF work. One of mine 
is ancient, but up to date with mods, so it works as well as the much 
newer one.


Eric KE6US

On 6/17/2019 3:25 PM, Daniel Solano Gómez wrote:

Hello, all,

My name is Daniel, AG5UT, and I recently purchased a second-hand K2 (#5240) as 
my first HF rig.  I believe it’s in good working condition—I haved been able to 
successfully confirm it transmits, but have yet to have a QSO.  It has the 
following options installed:

* KSB2 (1.08b)
* KAT2 (1.07)
* KIO2 (1.09)
* K160M

I have purchased the KBT2, since I like the idea of taking this car camping and 
being able to operate without having to be plugged in.

So, I have a few questions:

1. It seems like since it’s a later serial number, so I shouldn’t need to worry 
about doing any upgrades of the main system.  Is this right?

2. I think I also have the latest firmware versions, is this correct?

3. Is there any type of calibration I should do to make sure everything is 
fine?  I don’t really have much in the way of test equipment, such as frequency 
counters, signal generators, or oscilliscopes.  Should I be worrying about this?

4. Should I consider some of the options I don’t have, i.e. the KNB2 or KAF2?

5. I see references to a KDSP2, but that no longer seems to be available, is 
that right?

6. Any thoughts if getting the KPA100 would be worth it for base station use?  
Can it be used externally?  Is it fine to use it with the internal battery 
installed?  Would it be better to just buy a KXPA-100 in case I ever decide to 
upgrade to a KX3?

7. I didn’t get the cable for KIO2.  I mistakenly purchased the W1SERKT 
thinking it was what I needed.  Would the KUSB the right thing to get?

8. Are there any questions I haven’t asked, but should?

Thank you for your patience, and I appreciate your help with my newbie 
questions.  I am super-excited to finally get on the air with HF.

73,

Daniel, AG5UT


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Re: [Elecraft] New (second-hand) K2 owner, what now?

[Francis Belliveau]

Daniel,

1,3. As I first rig I might be inclined to check through all the calibrations, 
but there is no reason to not assume that all is okay for now and see how the 
rig performs; although filter tuning can be a little personal.  So maybe get a 
copy of spectrogram, hook the rig to your computer and see what the filters 
look like.  Again others can help you with this better than I can.

2. Others are likely to give you advice on firmware, but what you have is 
likely close enough.  I expect that some of mine are older than yours.

4, 5.  Both of the KNB2 and KAF2 are useful, but the KNB2 only functions for 
certain types of noise so it might be lower priority.  I could be wrong, but I 
believe that the chip in the KDSP2 is no longer available so there are no more 
kits available from Elecraft.

6.  I would never think of having the KBT2 and KPA100 installed at the same 
time.  I am not sure if they even can be.  My personal choice was to not get a 
KBT2 and always use an external power source.  I have specialized battery 
setups for what you are thinking of.  Although that means carrying two 
packages, it greatly simplifies things when the battery dies in the field and 
you want to continue operating.
  I actually put a KPA100 and KAT100 into an EC2 enclosure that looks nice next 
to my K2 with KAT2 installed.  The EC2 is also no longer sold, but others on 
the list have talked about alternatives.  I suspect that Elecraft may still 
have some front panels for this setup available.

7.  A cable is easy enough to make for yourself, just look up the diagram in 
the manual so that you get the t]=pinout correct.  There is always a lot of 
discussion regarding USB interfacing.  Near as I can tell, it can be 
problematic so take heed of what others tell you on the list about what to get 
for a converter.

Good Luck and 73,
KA4FRH, owner of K2 S/N 314


> On Jun 17, 2019, at 18:25, Daniel Solano Gómez  wrote:
> 
> Hello, all,
> 
> My name is Daniel, AG5UT, and I recently purchased a second-hand K2 (#5240) 
> as my first HF rig.  I believe it’s in good working condition—I haved been 
> able to successfully confirm it transmits, but have yet to have a QSO.  It 
> has the following options installed:
> 
> * KSB2 (1.08b)
> * KAT2 (1.07)
> * KIO2 (1.09)
> * K160M
> 
> I have purchased the KBT2, since I like the idea of taking this car camping 
> and being able to operate without having to be plugged in.
> 
> So, I have a few questions:
> 
> 1. It seems like since it’s a later serial number, so I shouldn’t need to 
> worry about doing any upgrades of the main system.  Is this right?
> 
> 2. I think I also have the latest firmware versions, is this correct?
> 
> 3. Is there any type of calibration I should do to make sure everything is 
> fine?  I don’t really have much in the way of test equipment, such as 
> frequency counters, signal generators, or oscilliscopes.  Should I be 
> worrying about this?
> 
> 4. Should I consider some of the options I don’t have, i.e. the KNB2 or KAF2?
> 
> 5. I see references to a KDSP2, but that no longer seems to be available, is 
> that right?
> 
> 6. Any thoughts if getting the KPA100 would be worth it for base station use? 
>  Can it be used externally?  Is it fine to use it with the internal battery 
> installed?  Would it be better to just buy a KXPA-100 in case I ever decide 
> to upgrade to a KX3?
> 
> 7. I didn’t get the cable for KIO2.  I mistakenly purchased the W1SERKT 
> thinking it was what I needed.  Would the KUSB the right thing to get?
> 
> 8. Are there any questions I haven’t asked, but should?
> 
> Thank you for your patience, and I appreciate your help with my newbie 
> questions.  I am super-excited to finally get on the air with HF.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Daniel, AG5UT
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] New (second-hand) K2 owner, what now?

[Daniel Solano Gómez]

Hello, all,

My name is Daniel, AG5UT, and I recently purchased a second-hand K2 (#5240) as 
my first HF rig.  I believe it’s in good working condition—I haved been able to 
successfully confirm it transmits, but have yet to have a QSO.  It has the 
following options installed:

* KSB2 (1.08b)
* KAT2 (1.07)
* KIO2 (1.09)
* K160M

I have purchased the KBT2, since I like the idea of taking this car camping and 
being able to operate without having to be plugged in.

So, I have a few questions:

1. It seems like since it’s a later serial number, so I shouldn’t need to worry 
about doing any upgrades of the main system.  Is this right?

2. I think I also have the latest firmware versions, is this correct?

3. Is there any type of calibration I should do to make sure everything is 
fine?  I don’t really have much in the way of test equipment, such as frequency 
counters, signal generators, or oscilliscopes.  Should I be worrying about this?

4. Should I consider some of the options I don’t have, i.e. the KNB2 or KAF2?

5. I see references to a KDSP2, but that no longer seems to be available, is 
that right?

6. Any thoughts if getting the KPA100 would be worth it for base station use?  
Can it be used externally?  Is it fine to use it with the internal battery 
installed?  Would it be better to just buy a KXPA-100 in case I ever decide to 
upgrade to a KX3?

7. I didn’t get the cable for KIO2.  I mistakenly purchased the W1SERKT 
thinking it was what I needed.  Would the KUSB the right thing to get?

8. Are there any questions I haven’t asked, but should?

Thank you for your patience, and I appreciate your help with my newbie 
questions.  I am super-excited to finally get on the air with HF.

73,

Daniel, AG5UT


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Re: [Elecraft] No Power Out on Digital Modes

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

As I stated, I can hear audio through headphones from the computer's
speaker port when I key the rig in WSJT-X.

Assuming you have more than one sound card with one driving the
computer speaker and the other connected to the K3/K3S "Line In"
if you hear sound from the computer speaker WSJT-X is configured to
use the wrong sound card for transmit.


73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2019-06-17 4:40 PM, k...@juno.com wrote:

I have a K3.  I do have audio when using SSB.  As I stated, I can hear
audio through headphones from the computer's speaker port when I key the
rig in WSJT-X.

Ed


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[Elecraft] WTB KX3

[n1ix]

If you have a KX3 that you would like to sell please let me know the details
(options, condition, S/N)

I can pay by paypal. 

73

Dave N1IX

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] No Power Out on Digital Modes

[Don Wilhelm]

Ed,

Is this a K3 that has been upgraded with the KIO3B option?  Or is it a K3S?
If so did you plug anything into the LINE IN jack on the back - either 
intentionally or by mistake?  That will open the path for the internal 
soundcard output.


Switch to SSB and try transmitting voice - if that works, the K3 is 
capable of transmitting in DATA A mode, and you have a problem with the 
audio.  While that does not fix it, it will tell you where to look.


If this is a K3 with a soundcard not internal to the K3, plug your 
headphones (or an amplified computer speaker) into the soundcard speaker 
jack to see if you can hear audio when the software application transmits.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/17/2019 2:39 PM, k...@juno.com wrote:

I've been using my K3 almost exclusively on WSJT-X FT8 since the mode
came into being.  Things worked fine until a couple days ago when I no
longer see any power out or ALC indication regardless of band setting.
All connections remain as before, untouched.  I switched to MMTTY and
AFSK-A to try RTTY and again no power transmitted.  I have no trouble
receiving for either application.  I've checked the speaker port of my
computer with a pair of headphones and I can hear audio when I key WSJT-X
so apparently the rig is getting audio in.

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[Elecraft] No Power Out on Digital Modes

[k2te]

I've been using my K3 almost exclusively on WSJT-X FT8 since the mode
came into being.  Things worked fine until a couple days ago when I no
longer see any power out or ALC indication regardless of band setting. 
All connections remain as before, untouched.  I switched to MMTTY and
AFSK-A to try RTTY and again no power transmitted.  I have no trouble
receiving for either application.  I've checked the speaker port of my
computer with a pair of headphones and I can hear audio when I key WSJT-X
so apparently the rig is getting audio in.

Is there a diagnostic I can run to see if there is a problem with the
LINE IN processing?

73 de Ed


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Re: [Elecraft] Next Question: DATA A with K3s and Fldigi

[Kevin, N4TT]

Hi Conrad:

I'm looking forward to your tests. I have things set up per Don's and Bob's
suggestions at the moment.

Windows level: -14.7db
fldigi level: -15.7 db
K3s level: 31

Again, I have not way to test quantitatively but the couple of comments
seems to indicate things are fine. I have this old KK7UQ IMD Meter which I
used to trust but it seems it's not working well or I need a new battery in
it. It's reading around -19 db IMD while my old rigs were at -30 easy. I'm
not trusting the meter at the moment.

Kev

On Mon, Jun 17, 2019 at 11:50 AM Conrad PA5Y  wrote:

> Don, it depends on the hardware. I would be very surprised if the Audio
> codec used in the K3S can reach full scale with the windows mixer at max. I
> expect that it is limited to -1dB FS. Also I believe that there are further
> limits imposed i WSJT-X. Therefore there should be no reason for clipping
> to occur in the CODEC.  I expect that there is sufficient range in the mic
> gain (or whatever it is called) on the K3S. This gives the input signal the
> maximum SNR which is the socially responsible thing to do.
>
> Until I have checked the behaviour of the windows mixer with the CODEC I
> will not be using it. As I have said previously I don't trust the windows
> mixer not to degrade the audio due  This may well have been resolved but
> historically was of concern.
>
> I think that I will decide what to do when I have made some proper
> measurements. It's not that I don't believe you, I just like to check
> things for myself.
>
> 73
>
> Conrad PA5Y
>
>
> 
> From: Don Wilhelm 
> Sent: 17 June 2019 17:31
> To: Conrad PA5Y; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Next Question: DATA A with K3s and Fldigi
>
> Conrad,
>
> Do check and adjust the Windows soundcard controls to mid-range. When
> set to extremes, it can cause clipping and distortion.
>
> With the K3S, the internal soundcard will identify as USB AUDIO CODEC.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/17/2019 11:21 AM, Conrad PA5Y wrote:
> > Don of course it is not a power control, that is obvious to me.
> >
> > I am very fortunate to have a lot of RF and Audio test equipment
> > available both at home and at work so I will measure what works best
> > and try to understand why. I will be happy to share my findings. I
> > will of course read your article. I am loathe to use the Windows audio
> > mixer, I would rather use an external passive attenuator. Maybe the
> > Windows mixer has improved, I need to check that with an audio
> > analyser. It used to be awful so I built an external passive
> > attenuator some years ago.
> >
> > I will be interested to see what happens to the K3S TX composite noise
> > when the power control is used. There is a certain very popular radio
> > where the AM noise comes up by 20 dB when the power is reduced from
> > 100W to 30W. I would be really pleased if the K3S power control works
> > properly!
> >
> > I bought the K3S purely for its TX PN performance.
> >
> > 73
> >
> > Conrad PA5Y
> > 
> > *From:* Don Wilhelm 
> > *Sent:* 17 June 2019 16:03:02
> > *To:* Conrad PA5Y; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] Next Question: DATA A with K3s and Fldigi
> > Conrad and all,
> >
> > The POWER control in WSJT-X is a misnomer.  It is actually an audio
> > level control.  Do NOT use it to control the power with an Elecraft
> > transceiver - set the audio correctly and use the power knob to control
> > the power.
> >
> > While other amateur transceivers can be made to control the power by
> > varying the audio level, that can be disastrous for Elecraft transceiver
> > Power Control.  Read the relevant article on my website www.w3fpr.com<
> http://www.w3fpr.com>
> > 
> > for a full explanation.
> >
> > Set the WSJT-X POWER control for 30% to 50% and do the same for the
> > soundcard control in Windows Mixer, then set the LINE IN gain in the
> > K3/S to somewhere near mid-range.  By manipulation of those 3 audio
> > level controls, you should be able to achieve the 'magic' indication of
> > 4 bars solid on the ALC meter with the 5th bar flashing - that is the
> > "NO ALC" point for the K3/S, KX3, and KX2 transeivers. The lower 4 bars
> > of the "ALC" meter are there as an aid for setting the audio levels.
> > Set the desired power output with the POWER knob - do NOT vary the audio
> > level.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> > On 6/17/2019 9:38 AM, Conrad PA5Y wrote:
> > >
> > > Historically there were all kinds of low level artefacts produced by
> > Windows audio algorithms, including the volume control. This was
> > caused by insufficient precision leading to truncation artefacts. I
> > have not tested it for a while and so it may no longer be the case.
> > The result when I did test it was spectral smearing and some AM on
> > what should be a constant envelope signal.  I trust the power control
> > in WSJT-X far more than 

Re: [Elecraft] Next Question: DATA A with K3s and Fldigi

[Conrad PA5Y]

Don, it depends on the hardware. I would be very surprised if the Audio codec 
used in the K3S can reach full scale with the windows mixer at max. I expect 
that it is limited to -1dB FS. Also I believe that there are further limits 
imposed i WSJT-X. Therefore there should be no reason for clipping to occur in 
the CODEC.  I expect that there is sufficient range in the mic gain (or 
whatever it is called) on the K3S. This gives the input signal the maximum SNR 
which is the socially responsible thing to do.

Until I have checked the behaviour of the windows mixer with the CODEC I will 
not be using it. As I have said previously I don't trust the windows mixer not 
to degrade the audio due  This may well have been resolved but historically was 
of concern.

I think that I will decide what to do when I have made some proper 
measurements. It's not that I don't believe you, I just like to check things 
for myself.

73

Conrad PA5Y



From: Don Wilhelm 
Sent: 17 June 2019 17:31
To: Conrad PA5Y; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Next Question: DATA A with K3s and Fldigi

Conrad,

Do check and adjust the Windows soundcard controls to mid-range. When
set to extremes, it can cause clipping and distortion.

With the K3S, the internal soundcard will identify as USB AUDIO CODEC.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/17/2019 11:21 AM, Conrad PA5Y wrote:
> Don of course it is not a power control, that is obvious to me.
>
> I am very fortunate to have a lot of RF and Audio test equipment
> available both at home and at work so I will measure what works best
> and try to understand why. I will be happy to share my findings. I
> will of course read your article. I am loathe to use the Windows audio
> mixer, I would rather use an external passive attenuator. Maybe the
> Windows mixer has improved, I need to check that with an audio
> analyser. It used to be awful so I built an external passive
> attenuator some years ago.
>
> I will be interested to see what happens to the K3S TX composite noise
> when the power control is used. There is a certain very popular radio
> where the AM noise comes up by 20 dB when the power is reduced from
> 100W to 30W. I would be really pleased if the K3S power control works
> properly!
>
> I bought the K3S purely for its TX PN performance.
>
> 73
>
> Conrad PA5Y
> 
> *From:* Don Wilhelm 
> *Sent:* 17 June 2019 16:03:02
> *To:* Conrad PA5Y; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] Next Question: DATA A with K3s and Fldigi
> Conrad and all,
>
> The POWER control in WSJT-X is a misnomer.  It is actually an audio
> level control.  Do NOT use it to control the power with an Elecraft
> transceiver - set the audio correctly and use the power knob to control
> the power.
>
> While other amateur transceivers can be made to control the power by
> varying the audio level, that can be disastrous for Elecraft transceiver
> Power Control.  Read the relevant article on my website 
> www.w3fpr.com
> 
> for a full explanation.
>
> Set the WSJT-X POWER control for 30% to 50% and do the same for the
> soundcard control in Windows Mixer, then set the LINE IN gain in the
> K3/S to somewhere near mid-range.  By manipulation of those 3 audio
> level controls, you should be able to achieve the 'magic' indication of
> 4 bars solid on the ALC meter with the 5th bar flashing - that is the
> "NO ALC" point for the K3/S, KX3, and KX2 transeivers. The lower 4 bars
> of the "ALC" meter are there as an aid for setting the audio levels.
> Set the desired power output with the POWER knob - do NOT vary the audio
> level.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/17/2019 9:38 AM, Conrad PA5Y wrote:
> >
> > Historically there were all kinds of low level artefacts produced by
> Windows audio algorithms, including the volume control. This was
> caused by insufficient precision leading to truncation artefacts. I
> have not tested it for a while and so it may no longer be the case.
> The result when I did test it was spectral smearing and some AM on
> what should be a constant envelope signal.  I trust the power control
> in WSJT-X far more than that from the Windows mixer. These effects
> only really matter during weak signal conditions when your TX signal
> is on or near the noise floor. at the receiving station However they
> do make your signal wider.
> >
> > Also be careful how you vary power, reducing audio carelessly will
> invariably decrease the signal to noise on your TX signal which will
> also affect a stations ability to receive you.
> >
> > My K3S arrives this week and I will make some tests to see exactly
> what happens with TX composite noise when power is reduced with the
> power control and by reducing audio drive from the PC. Unless someone
> else has measured this already?
> >

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Re: [Elecraft] Next Question: DATA A with K3s and Fldigi

[Don Wilhelm]

Conrad,

Do check and adjust the Windows soundcard controls to mid-range. When 
set to extremes, it can cause clipping and distortion.


With the K3S, the internal soundcard will identify as USB AUDIO CODEC.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/17/2019 11:21 AM, Conrad PA5Y wrote:

Don of course it is not a power control, that is obvious to me.

I am very fortunate to have a lot of RF and Audio test equipment 
available both at home and at work so I will measure what works best 
and try to understand why. I will be happy to share my findings. I 
will of course read your article. I am loathe to use the Windows audio 
mixer, I would rather use an external passive attenuator. Maybe the 
Windows mixer has improved, I need to check that with an audio 
analyser. It used to be awful so I built an external passive 
attenuator some years ago.


I will be interested to see what happens to the K3S TX composite noise 
when the power control is used. There is a certain very popular radio 
where the AM noise comes up by 20 dB when the power is reduced from 
100W to 30W. I would be really pleased if the K3S power control works 
properly!


I bought the K3S purely for its TX PN performance.

73

Conrad PA5Y

*From:* Don Wilhelm 
*Sent:* 17 June 2019 16:03:02
*To:* Conrad PA5Y; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
*Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] Next Question: DATA A with K3s and Fldigi
Conrad and all,

The POWER control in WSJT-X is a misnomer.  It is actually an audio
level control.  Do NOT use it to control the power with an Elecraft
transceiver - set the audio correctly and use the power knob to control
the power.

While other amateur transceivers can be made to control the power by
varying the audio level, that can be disastrous for Elecraft transceiver
Power Control.  Read the relevant article on my website www.w3fpr.com 


for a full explanation.

Set the WSJT-X POWER control for 30% to 50% and do the same for the
soundcard control in Windows Mixer, then set the LINE IN gain in the
K3/S to somewhere near mid-range.  By manipulation of those 3 audio
level controls, you should be able to achieve the 'magic' indication of
4 bars solid on the ALC meter with the 5th bar flashing - that is the
"NO ALC" point for the K3/S, KX3, and KX2 transeivers. The lower 4 bars
of the "ALC" meter are there as an aid for setting the audio levels.
Set the desired power output with the POWER knob - do NOT vary the audio
level.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/17/2019 9:38 AM, Conrad PA5Y wrote:
>
> Historically there were all kinds of low level artefacts produced by 
Windows audio algorithms, including the volume control. This was 
caused by insufficient precision leading to truncation artefacts. I 
have not tested it for a while and so it may no longer be the case. 
The result when I did test it was spectral smearing and some AM on 
what should be a constant envelope signal.  I trust the power control 
in WSJT-X far more than that from the Windows mixer. These effects 
only really matter during weak signal conditions when your TX signal 
is on or near the noise floor. at the receiving station However they 
do make your signal wider.

>
> Also be careful how you vary power, reducing audio carelessly will 
invariably decrease the signal to noise on your TX signal which will 
also affect a stations ability to receive you.

>
> My K3S arrives this week and I will make some tests to see exactly 
what happens with TX composite noise when power is reduced with the 
power control and by reducing audio drive from the PC. Unless someone 
else has measured this already?

>


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Re: [Elecraft] Next Question: DATA A with K3s and Fldigi

[Conrad PA5Y]

Don of course it is not a power control, that is obvious to me.

I am very fortunate to have a lot of RF and Audio test equipment available both 
at home and at work so I will measure what works best and try to understand 
why. I will be happy to share my findings. I will of course read your article. 
I am loathe to use the Windows audio mixer, I would rather use an external 
passive attenuator. Maybe the Windows mixer has improved, I need to check that 
with an audio analyser. It used to be awful so I built an external passive 
attenuator some years ago.

I will be interested to see what happens to the K3S TX composite noise when the 
power control is used. There is a certain very popular radio where the AM noise 
comes up by 20 dB when the power is reduced from 100W to 30W. I would be really 
pleased if the K3S power control works properly!

I bought the K3S purely for its TX PN performance.

73

Conrad PA5Y

From: Don Wilhelm 
Sent: 17 June 2019 16:03:02
To: Conrad PA5Y; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Next Question: DATA A with K3s and Fldigi

Conrad and all,

The POWER control in WSJT-X is a misnomer.  It is actually an audio
level control.  Do NOT use it to control the power with an Elecraft
transceiver - set the audio correctly and use the power knob to control
the power.

While other amateur transceivers can be made to control the power by
varying the audio level, that can be disastrous for Elecraft transceiver
Power Control.  Read the relevant article on my website 
www.w3fpr.com
for a full explanation.

Set the WSJT-X POWER control for 30% to 50% and do the same for the
soundcard control in Windows Mixer, then set the LINE IN gain in the
K3/S to somewhere near mid-range.  By manipulation of those 3 audio
level controls, you should be able to achieve the 'magic' indication of
4 bars solid on the ALC meter with the 5th bar flashing - that is the
"NO ALC" point for the K3/S, KX3, and KX2 transeivers.  The lower 4 bars
of the "ALC" meter are there as an aid for setting the audio levels.
Set the desired power output with the POWER knob - do NOT vary the audio
level.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/17/2019 9:38 AM, Conrad PA5Y wrote:
>
> Historically there were all kinds of low level artefacts produced by Windows 
> audio algorithms, including the volume control. This was caused by 
> insufficient precision leading to truncation artefacts. I have not tested it 
> for a while and so it may no longer be the case. The result when I did test 
> it was spectral smearing and some AM on what should be a constant envelope 
> signal.  I trust the power control in WSJT-X far more than that from the 
> Windows mixer. These effects only really matter during weak signal conditions 
> when your TX signal is on or near the noise floor. at the receiving station 
> However they do make your signal wider.
>
> Also be careful how you vary power, reducing audio carelessly will invariably 
> decrease the signal to noise on your TX signal which will also affect a 
> stations ability to receive you.
>
> My K3S arrives this week and I will make some tests to see exactly what 
> happens with TX composite noise when power is reduced with the power control 
> and by reducing audio drive from the PC. Unless someone else has measured 
> this already?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Low sensitivity with variable-bandwidth filter

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

Congratulations, it sounds like you have achieved success.

Once set the K2 alignment usually remains stable for a long time. If it 
ain't broke, don't fix it!


Don W3FPR

On 6/17/2019 10:36 AM, Bill Coleman wrote:

Well, I think I finally got it sorted.

I replaced D1 and D2 on my KAT100. One of the diodes was good, the other was 
likely bad since I couldn’t get the SWR bridge to null, but I destroyed it 
while extracting it from the board.

New diodes are in machined socket pins, which will make them easy to replace 
(or test) later, if need be. SWR bridge calibration went swimmingly.

As for the filter problem, I did a CAL FIL and checked OP1 on LSB and USB, All 
four filters on CW and RTTY.

Other than a few minor tweaks, the only thing I ran into was FL1 on CW (which 
is a 1.0 filter) was about 200 Hz low. FL3 (0.16) was about 30 Hz high.

After the CAL FIL, the radio sounds normal again. I don’t believe I’ll do a 
full alignment.

Thanks for your assistance.


On Jun 12, 2019, at 10:09 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Bill,

Yes, do the CAL FIL calibration first.  If that does not cure anything, then 
proceed with the rest of the alignment, but I doubt if that will help much - 
the K2 alignment is usually quite stable over time.
The bandpass filter and other alignments are not going to change the 
relationship between the SSB filter and the CW filter - only CAL FIL will do 
that.

If you still have a problem after the full CAL FIL, you will usually find a 
problem in the CW filter bank - like a bad crystal (but that does not happen 
often).  Reflowing the soldering on the IF crystals on the RF Board may help.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/12/2019 8:23 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

Yeah, this is looking more like a calibration problem.

I’m listening to W1AW code practice on 14.0475. As I cycle through the filters 
the S-units are roughly the same through OP1, 0.4 and 0.16. But on the 1.0 
bandwidth, it is often 1-2 S-units lower. If I tune about 200 Hz lower, I get 
the same number of bars.

I’ll update you when I have a chance to do the calibration.



Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
 -- Wilbur Wright, 1901




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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Low sensitivity with variable-bandwidth filter

[Bill Coleman]

Well, I think I finally got it sorted.

I replaced D1 and D2 on my KAT100. One of the diodes was good, the other was 
likely bad since I couldn’t get the SWR bridge to null, but I destroyed it 
while extracting it from the board.

New diodes are in machined socket pins, which will make them easy to replace 
(or test) later, if need be. SWR bridge calibration went swimmingly.

As for the filter problem, I did a CAL FIL and checked OP1 on LSB and USB, All 
four filters on CW and RTTY.

Other than a few minor tweaks, the only thing I ran into was FL1 on CW (which 
is a 1.0 filter) was about 200 Hz low. FL3 (0.16) was about 30 Hz high.

After the CAL FIL, the radio sounds normal again. I don’t believe I’ll do a 
full alignment.

Thanks for your assistance.

> On Jun 12, 2019, at 10:09 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> Yes, do the CAL FIL calibration first.  If that does not cure anything, then 
> proceed with the rest of the alignment, but I doubt if that will help much - 
> the K2 alignment is usually quite stable over time.
> The bandpass filter and other alignments are not going to change the 
> relationship between the SSB filter and the CW filter - only CAL FIL will do 
> that.
> 
> If you still have a problem after the full CAL FIL, you will usually find a 
> problem in the CW filter bank - like a bad crystal (but that does not happen 
> often).  Reflowing the soldering on the IF crystals on the RF Board may help.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 6/12/2019 8:23 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
>> Yeah, this is looking more like a calibration problem.
>> 
>> I’m listening to W1AW code practice on 14.0475. As I cycle through the 
>> filters the S-units are roughly the same through OP1, 0.4 and 0.16. But on 
>> the 1.0 bandwidth, it is often 1-2 S-units lower. If I tune about 200 Hz 
>> lower, I get the same number of bars.
>> 
>> I’ll update you when I have a chance to do the calibration.
>> 
>> 
> 

Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] Next Question: DATA A with K3s and Fldigi

[Don Wilhelm]

Conrad and all,

The POWER control in WSJT-X is a misnomer.  It is actually an audio 
level control.  Do NOT use it to control the power with an Elecraft 
transceiver - set the audio correctly and use the power knob to control 
the power.


While other amateur transceivers can be made to control the power by 
varying the audio level, that can be disastrous for Elecraft transceiver 
Power Control.  Read the relevant article on my website www.w3fpr.com 
for a full explanation.


Set the WSJT-X POWER control for 30% to 50% and do the same for the 
soundcard control in Windows Mixer, then set the LINE IN gain in the 
K3/S to somewhere near mid-range.  By manipulation of those 3 audio 
level controls, you should be able to achieve the 'magic' indication of 
4 bars solid on the ALC meter with the 5th bar flashing - that is the 
"NO ALC" point for the K3/S, KX3, and KX2 transeivers.  The lower 4 bars 
of the "ALC" meter are there as an aid for setting the audio levels.
Set the desired power output with the POWER knob - do NOT vary the audio 
level.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/17/2019 9:38 AM, Conrad PA5Y wrote:


Historically there were all kinds of low level artefacts produced by Windows 
audio algorithms, including the volume control. This was caused by insufficient 
precision leading to truncation artefacts. I have not tested it for a while and 
so it may no longer be the case. The result when I did test it was spectral 
smearing and some AM on what should be a constant envelope signal.  I trust the 
power control in WSJT-X far more than that from the Windows mixer. These 
effects only really matter during weak signal conditions when your TX signal is 
on or near the noise floor. at the receiving station However they do make your 
signal wider.

Also be careful how you vary power, reducing audio carelessly will invariably 
decrease the signal to noise on your TX signal which will also affect a 
stations ability to receive you.

My K3S arrives this week and I will make some tests to see exactly what happens 
with TX composite noise when power is reduced with the power control and by 
reducing audio drive from the PC. Unless someone else has measured this already?


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Re: [Elecraft] Next Question: DATA A with K3s and Fldigi

[Conrad PA5Y]

Historically there were all kinds of low level artefacts produced by Windows 
audio algorithms, including the volume control. This was caused by insufficient 
precision leading to truncation artefacts. I have not tested it for a while and 
so it may no longer be the case. The result when I did test it was spectral 
smearing and some AM on what should be a constant envelope signal.  I trust the 
power control in WSJT-X far more than that from the Windows mixer. These 
effects only really matter during weak signal conditions when your TX signal is 
on or near the noise floor. at the receiving station However they do make your 
signal wider.

Also be careful how you vary power, reducing audio carelessly will invariably 
decrease the signal to noise on your TX signal which will also affect a 
stations ability to receive you.

My K3S arrives this week and I will make some tests to see exactly what happens 
with TX composite noise when power is reduced with the power control and by 
reducing audio drive from the PC. Unless someone else has measured this already?

73

Conrad PA5Y


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Bob McGraw K4TAX 
Sent: 17 June 2019 15:13
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Next Question: DATA A with K3s and Fldigi

Kev:

First the ALC indication should be, no must be, 4 bars solid and the
5th bar flickering.To monitor your signal, use the MON function of
the K3S.  It should sound VERY clean.  If there is buzz, growl, humm or
anything besides pure tone, there are issues to be resolved.  Check all
PL-259 connectors in the signal path to assure they are very tight.  I
use a pair of 4" Channel lock pliers to snug mine.

As to levels -18 dB is 30% for the SPKR level from the computer. That is
what I use.  Then the level adjustment {lower right corner} in FLDIGI is
running -10 dB and the Line Gain on my K3S is running at 30. Then
set the PWR value on the radio to the value of your choice, I normally
run 50 watts without the KPA500. With the KPA500 I run 300 to 350
watts.   All of these numbers work for WSJT-X /  FT-8 as well.

As to things "looking good", I rely largely on the software and IMD
reports.I also have a 2nd receiver and computer where I can monitor
my own signal if need be.

Seems you just need to tweak levels a bit to get things in a more normal
and balanced level condition.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/17/2019 12:50 AM, Kevin, N4TT wrote:
> My first PSK-31 contact seemed to go very well. I simply adjusted the MIC
> level (Line) until there was 5-7 ALC bars. The adjustment was quite smooth.
>
> Then I went off and did other things and I'm concerned I changed something.
> Now I have to turn the level way way down on the USB Audio CODEC (-16.4
> dB). Then I add another -3 dB using fldigi. Finally, I adjust the Mic to
> Line = 17. The Mic adjustment isn't smooth.
>
> The major change was the addition of the KAT500 and KPA500 (stby) and I'm
> wondering if either I messed up a setting or maybe created an opportunity
> for some RF feedback that's affecting the audio.
>
> At this point, I don't know how to confirm the signal is clean (especially
> PSK-31). I've only had one report of a possible problem and a number of
> reports of "things look good" so I'm calling that a wash.
>
> I found nothing in the instructions that told me to drop the level of the
> USB Audio CODEC and -16.4 dB seems like a big drop. The CODEC is set for 16
> bit, 48000 Hz.
>
> Am I worrying about nothing? Is your setup with fldigi and DATA A using the
> K3s's internal sound card similar?
>
> Thanks for your patience.
>
> 73,
> Kev N4TT
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Re: [Elecraft] Next Question: DATA A with K3s and Fldigi

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Kev:

First the ALC indication should be, no must be, 4 bars solid and the 
5th bar flickering.    To monitor your signal, use the MON function of 
the K3S.  It should sound VERY clean.  If there is buzz, growl, humm or 
anything besides pure tone, there are issues to be resolved.  Check all 
PL-259 connectors in the signal path to assure they are very tight.  I 
use a pair of 4" Channel lock pliers to snug mine.


As to levels -18 dB is 30% for the SPKR level from the computer. That is 
what I use.  Then the level adjustment {lower right corner} in FLDIGI is 
running -10 dB and the Line Gain on my K3S is running at 30. Then 
set the PWR value on the radio to the value of your choice, I normally 
run 50 watts without the KPA500. With the KPA500 I run 300 to 350 
watts.   All of these numbers work for WSJT-X /  FT-8 as well.


As to things "looking good", I rely largely on the software and IMD 
reports.    I also have a 2nd receiver and computer where I can monitor 
my own signal if need be.


Seems you just need to tweak levels a bit to get things in a more normal 
and balanced level condition.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/17/2019 12:50 AM, Kevin, N4TT wrote:

My first PSK-31 contact seemed to go very well. I simply adjusted the MIC
level (Line) until there was 5-7 ALC bars. The adjustment was quite smooth.

Then I went off and did other things and I'm concerned I changed something.
Now I have to turn the level way way down on the USB Audio CODEC (-16.4
dB). Then I add another -3 dB using fldigi. Finally, I adjust the Mic to
Line = 17. The Mic adjustment isn't smooth.

The major change was the addition of the KAT500 and KPA500 (stby) and I'm
wondering if either I messed up a setting or maybe created an opportunity
for some RF feedback that's affecting the audio.

At this point, I don't know how to confirm the signal is clean (especially
PSK-31). I've only had one report of a possible problem and a number of
reports of "things look good" so I'm calling that a wash.

I found nothing in the instructions that told me to drop the level of the
USB Audio CODEC and -16.4 dB seems like a big drop. The CODEC is set for 16
bit, 48000 Hz.

Am I worrying about nothing? Is your setup with fldigi and DATA A using the
K3s's internal sound card similar?

Thanks for your patience.

73,
Kev N4TT
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Re: [Elecraft] Terminal resistance

[Nate Bargmann]

* On 2019 16 Jun 22:04 -0500, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
> Yes, lugs can not be soldered alone.  They must be crimped first and THEN
> soldered.    At the same time, some installations of aeronautical equipment,
> along with NASA procedure, I do understand does indicate sweating solder
> into the lug and it thereby wicking up into the stranded wires makes for a
> "stiff" connection.   This connection is reported to break under vibration
> conditions.   I've personally never experienced such with ham equipment,
> although I've never carried any into space.  I suppose there is merit to
> this directive.    Perhaps you FAA and NASA types can expand this thought.

I've noted this before.  Before our shop started using crimp UHF
connectors--RF Industries brand of connectors and crimper--we had a high
failure rate of the kludge that is the PL-259 with the UG-174 adapter
and blobs of solder (some installed by us, most from elsewhere).  In
various track machines, trucks, and other railroad equipment I never
replaced a properly installed crimp connector.  I did replace a number
that came from the truck outfitters but those would arrive with a short
or without the center pin making contact with the coax center conductor,
but that is another story.

Yes, annealing of the wire when using solder is a no-go where flexing
may occur.

73, Nate, N0NB

-- 

"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."

Web: https://www.n0nb.us  GPG key: D55A8819  GitHub: N0NB
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Re: [Elecraft] Terminal resistance

[Nr4c]

This leads me to think if soldering lowered the “noise floor” over just 
crimping that the crimp wasn’t done properly. A proper crimp doesn’t leave any 
space for solder to fill 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jun 17, 2019, at 4:32 AM, hawley, charles j jr  
> wrote:
> 
> Interesting about the additional soldering and resultant noise reduction. A 
> chart from the Indium Corp shows 63/37 solder to be about 11% of the 
> conductivity of copper. I guess that's better than air though.
> 
> https://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedias/soldering-basics#chart
> Microwaves101 | Soldering 
> Basics
> Click here to go to our main page on packaging. New for February 2019: here's 
> a link to an update on lead-free solders, from Aerospace Corporation, from 
> 2011.In case you were wondering, the issues with lead-free solders have never 
> really gone away. To put it in perspective, 88% of lead consumed in the 
> United States is used in storage batteries, which are not subject to RoHS.
> www.microwaves101.com
> 
> 
> 
> Chuck Hawley
> c-haw...@illinois.edu
> 
> Amateur Radio, KE9UW
> aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
> 
> 
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
> behalf of Bob McGraw K4TAX 
> Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2019 10:03 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Terminal resistance
> 
> The company for which I previously worked designed and built recording
> studio consoles.   In order to eek out every bit of noise, that is
> achieve the lowest noise floor, it was necessary to crimp and then
> solder the lugs on the power supply cables on both ends.  Crimping was
> only OK and was done until it was discovered that also soldering the
> lugs did lower noise floor a few dB. This leads me to conclude that
> crimping AND soldering is preferred, leading to a lower resistance
> connection.
> 
> For lightning grounding, joints and terminations, soldering alone is not
> permitted.  Crimping is required.
> 
> Yes, lugs can not be soldered alone.  They must be crimped first and
> THEN soldered.At the same time, some installations of aeronautical
> equipment, along with NASA procedure, I do understand does indicate
> sweating solder into the lug and it thereby wicking up into the stranded
> wires makes for a "stiff" connection.   This connection is reported to
> break under vibration conditions.   I've personally never experienced
> such with ham equipment, although I've never carried any into space.  I
> suppose there is merit to this directive.Perhaps you FAA and NASA
> types can expand this thought.
> 
> I am also aware with power distribution systems, a.k.a TVA,  it is quite
> common to use a crimp method to join wires.   These conductors  are
> several thousand circular mills in size and are of many layers of
> stranded conductors.  When properly and completely crimped by a
> hydraulic crimp machine, the joint is void of space. If fact, having cut
> one of these in half just to see for myself, it appeared as a solid rod
> with no voids observed.  Thus the strands were compressed to that
> degree.The center strand was steel as the messenger and the five
> outer layers of aluminum were alternating in direction of rotation,
> clockwise wound and counterclockwise wound.
> 
> In most cases, crimping connectors with a crimping tool which has the
> correct die for the connector is noted to be satisfactory.  On the other
> hand, I've seen many cables in various ham applications which were
> installed using what ever was handy to mash the sleeve.   That is NOT
> crimping.  Crimping does not distort the tubular diameter nor round
> shape of the sleeve as the correct size die prevents distortion of the
> sleeve.   A correct crimping tool puts a dimple in one side of the sleeve.
> 
> And now you know the rest of the story.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
>> On 6/16/2019 7:27 PM, Nate Bargmann wrote:
>> * On 2019 16 Jun 18:50 -0500, Kidder, George wrote:
>>> Interesting data, Don.  I wonder if there is any information about
>>> resistance variations between soldered and crimped terminals.  One might
>>> think that, with stranded wire, even a good crimp connection might not
>>> solidly involve all of the strands, and might additionally deteriorate
>>> with time since oxygen could get between the strands.  A good solder job
>>> should wet the wire through and (additionally) exclude oxygen.  This
>>> wouldn't be easy to measure, for sure, but these engineers are cleaver
>>> people!
>> For what it is worth, the company I worked for prohibited the use of
>> soldered connectors for terminating bonding or power wiring.  Especially
>> with regard to bonding, dissipating any lightning strike energy through
>> a soldered connector could cause it to enough to melt the solder.  In
>> doing some microwave site upgrades I did pull out a previous generation
>> of bonding wiring that was soldered and some 

Re: [Elecraft] Terminal resistance

[hawley, charles j jr]

Interesting about the additional soldering and resultant noise reduction. A 
chart from the Indium Corp shows 63/37 solder to be about 11% of the 
conductivity of copper. I guess that's better than air though.

https://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedias/soldering-basics#chart
Microwaves101 | Soldering 
Basics
Click here to go to our main page on packaging. New for February 2019: here's a 
link to an update on lead-free solders, from Aerospace Corporation, from 
2011.In case you were wondering, the issues with lead-free solders have never 
really gone away. To put it in perspective, 88% of lead consumed in the United 
States is used in storage batteries, which are not subject to RoHS.
www.microwaves101.com



Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Bob McGraw K4TAX 
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2019 10:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Terminal resistance

The company for which I previously worked designed and built recording
studio consoles.   In order to eek out every bit of noise, that is
achieve the lowest noise floor, it was necessary to crimp and then
solder the lugs on the power supply cables on both ends.  Crimping was
only OK and was done until it was discovered that also soldering the
lugs did lower noise floor a few dB. This leads me to conclude that
crimping AND soldering is preferred, leading to a lower resistance
connection.

For lightning grounding, joints and terminations, soldering alone is not
permitted.  Crimping is required.

Yes, lugs can not be soldered alone.  They must be crimped first and
THEN soldered.At the same time, some installations of aeronautical
equipment, along with NASA procedure, I do understand does indicate
sweating solder into the lug and it thereby wicking up into the stranded
wires makes for a "stiff" connection.   This connection is reported to
break under vibration conditions.   I've personally never experienced
such with ham equipment, although I've never carried any into space.  I
suppose there is merit to this directive.Perhaps you FAA and NASA
types can expand this thought.

I am also aware with power distribution systems, a.k.a TVA,  it is quite
common to use a crimp method to join wires.   These conductors  are
several thousand circular mills in size and are of many layers of
stranded conductors.  When properly and completely crimped by a
hydraulic crimp machine, the joint is void of space. If fact, having cut
one of these in half just to see for myself, it appeared as a solid rod
with no voids observed.  Thus the strands were compressed to that
degree.The center strand was steel as the messenger and the five
outer layers of aluminum were alternating in direction of rotation,
clockwise wound and counterclockwise wound.

In most cases, crimping connectors with a crimping tool which has the
correct die for the connector is noted to be satisfactory.  On the other
hand, I've seen many cables in various ham applications which were
installed using what ever was handy to mash the sleeve.   That is NOT
crimping.  Crimping does not distort the tubular diameter nor round
shape of the sleeve as the correct size die prevents distortion of the
sleeve.   A correct crimping tool puts a dimple in one side of the sleeve.

And now you know the rest of the story.

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 6/16/2019 7:27 PM, Nate Bargmann wrote:
> * On 2019 16 Jun 18:50 -0500, Kidder, George wrote:
>> Interesting data, Don.  I wonder if there is any information about
>> resistance variations between soldered and crimped terminals.  One might
>> think that, with stranded wire, even a good crimp connection might not
>> solidly involve all of the strands, and might additionally deteriorate
>> with time since oxygen could get between the strands.  A good solder job
>> should wet the wire through and (additionally) exclude oxygen.  This
>> wouldn't be easy to measure, for sure, but these engineers are cleaver
>> people!
> For what it is worth, the company I worked for prohibited the use of
> soldered connectors for terminating bonding or power wiring.  Especially
> with regard to bonding, dissipating any lightning strike energy through
> a soldered connector could cause it to enough to melt the solder.  In
> doing some microwave site upgrades I did pull out a previous generation
> of bonding wiring that was soldered and some connectors had signs of
> being heated since installation.
>
> In my shack I use crimp connectors and a quality crimping tool with no
> problems.
>
> 73, Nate, N0NB
>

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