[Elecraft] For Sale: W2 and TX Mon for P3

[gjpurden]

W2 with two 1.8 to 54 MHz directional couplers- $250

TX Monitor for P3- $125

 

email:   pur...@verizon.net

Joe Purden

W6AYC

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA 1500 Remote input 13 broken

[Bob Wilson, N6TV]

On Sun, May 9, 2021 at 3:15 PM Art Nienhouse  wrote:

> */I have been using my Icom 7610 for about two years driving my KPA1500
> amp via the Remote jack 13 on the rear.


What is "Jack 13?"  Do you mean the REMOTE (CI-V) jack on the IC-7610 (a
3.5mm phono connector), or the REM jack on the KPA1500 (RCA), which is only
used for remote power ON, and you probably should not have anything
connected to it.


> setting up the menu in the 7610
> and the 1500 all worked just like it is supposed to .
> The cable to the ATU remote on the Icom works for the ATU [TUNE]
> function its a great combination.
>
> Tap the Icom band button the amp changes bands the ATU finds a match
> from memory without any RF transmission its worked 2 years. now it
> does not it just stopped working.  I can not remember any event that
> caused it to stop seeing the CI-V data input.
>

The most common cause is to plug the Icom CI-V cable into the KPA1500 TUNE
jack (the bottom one) instead of into the XCVR SERIAL jack (the top one).

>
> I have confirmed that the Icom CI-V is working correctly so the problem
> is with the KPA 1500 remote jack not working.
>

The KPA1500 REM jack is only used to power on the amp. remotely.  It is
*not* a CI-V connection to the REMOTE jack on the IC-7610.


> What should I look for?
>

Incorrect cabling or KPA1500 RADIO menu and BAUD rate not set to match CI-V
Baud Rate in radio.

If you recently updated the IC-7610 firmware, but did not save and restore
your menu settings then everything has been reset back to Icom factory
defaults in the IC-7610.

In the IC-7610 *SET > Connectors -> CI-V* menu:

Set *CI-V USB Port* to *Unlink from [REMOTE]*
Set *CI-V Baud Rate* to *19200*  (do not use *AUTO*.  Do not confuse this
setting with *CI-V USB Baud Rate* which is a completely independent for the
USB cable)
Set *CI-V Output (for ANT)* to *ON*


In KPA1500 Menu:

Set *RADIO TYPE* to *ICOM*
Set *RADIO POLL* to *OFF*
Set *SERIAL SPEED XCVR* to *19200*


73,
Bob, N6TV
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Re: [Elecraft] Share a port for KPA500

[Bob Wilson, N6TV]

I designed the S-BOX for just this type of serial port sharing.  It passes
all serial lines straight through from PC (normally) to Radio RS232, and
taps the RXD line (Pin 2) for the KPA500, KAT500, SteppIR, etc.   This
works with POLL OFF as long as a logging program is polling the radio
properly.  It also works in series with the K3S + CBL3PY + P3.

The S-BOX can just as easily be inserted as a null modem cable + tap
between TS-890S and TS-590S (and as a Y-cable to the KPA500, with TS-890S
Pin 2 connected to KPA500 XCVR SERIAL Pin 2).

So, it should work to connect the serial connector of the TS-890S to the
TS-590S with a tap, but as you say, if Kenwood only supports that
master/slave connection at 115200 baud, as stated in the Kenwood manuals,
then neither the KPA500 or KAT500 will be able to track, since they both
max out at 38400.  FYI, the KPA1500 XCVR SERIAL connector supports all
common baud rates from 4800 to 230,400 baud, but the KPA500 does not.

73,
Bob, N6TV
https://bit.ly/S-BOX


On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 12:24 PM Andy Durbin  wrote:

> "I have a TS-890S that has a KPA500 connected to the  radio's serial
> port.   The amp follows the radio, no problem.  Very slick.
>
> I also have a TS-590SG that I can use as a second receiver  for the
> TS-890.   For this to work right, the sub RX needs to connect to the 890
> via the serial port with a null modem cable and set to a 115,200 baud rate.
>
> Is there a simple way to get the band data to the amp while the 2 radios
> are connected to  each other as described above?"
>
> Does the TS-590SG/TS-890S absolutely have to be 115,200?   The KPA500
> maximum data rate is 38,400.
>
> If the TS-590SG/TS-890S link will work at 38,400 then it may be possible
> to pick off IF, FA and FB with a Y cable.  I don't know what subset of CAT
> commands is used when a TS-590SG is used as a second receiver so it may not
> be possible even if the interface does work at 38,400.
>
> Of course other options are available if an intermediate PC or smart
> controller can be used.
>
> 73,
> Andy, k3wyc
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[Elecraft] To new K4 owners

[Wayne Burdick]

Since the pace of K4 shipping has gone up, I wanted to again remind new owners 
to feel free to contact Eric and myself outside normal business hours. We check 
for email about all of our products frequently, of course. But new products 
generate a lot of additional questions. If you uncover a mystery that can't 
wait, we'll respond as quickly as possible.

Some operational issues or omissions you discover may find their way into the 
next update of the K4 user manuals. We appreciate your feedback!

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: KTCXO-3 Compatible Elecraft K3 TCXO 1 PPM High Stability Ref. Osc. Compatible

[Hank via Elecraft]

They are no longer available from Elecraft based on an email I received several 
weeks ago when calling to ask for a replacement. I sent my K3s in for an 
upgrade and to be generally looked over last year. I had already installed the 
KTCXO-3 crystal new from Elecraft earlier but was still having frequency drift 
issues. The factory replaced that one with a new one and upon return it began 
to drift. Without an external reference connected - I have to change the ref 
frequency almost every time I use the radio. 

2 meters is so bad on SSB that it is unusable. 

I have switched back to the original crystal that came with the rig new in 
2018. It is much better and I can use my rig for outings like field day or 
training exercises without a reference signal. 

For the money spent on a new rig in 2018 (which was the single most expensive 
ham radio purchase I have ever made and the first and only new Desktop HF 
transceiver I have ever owned) I am not happy that I can’t even get simple 
parts for repair less than 3 years later.  If I knew a new model was 
approaching I would have waited. 

The factory has given me 2 options: use the original crystal which I am doing 
and the performance is ok, or take my KTCXO-3 and tweak it with a screwdriver 
to get it back closer to the reference frequency. 

I have done the first because I can’t do the later. 2 meter SSB is still a 
little off with the old crystal. 

I feet certain that my KTCXO-3 is bad and no amount of tweaking will allow it 
to be stable so sending back to the factory again probably will do no good. 

Some days I wish I had still had my IC-7610/7700 combo :-(

Hank
K4HYJ. 


> On May 10, 2021, at 10:12 PM, Mark Goldberg  wrote:
> 
> 
> Most Hams do not have the test equipment to measure phase noise. The big 
> issue is 49.380 MHz is an unusual frequency and probably a custom order 
> frequency standard. The knockoff makers generally don't spend for a custom 
> part. They take a standard TCXO and generate that frequency using a crappy 
> PLL based synthesizer with high phase noise and lots of spurs. I have not 
> tested this particular type (Elecraft replacement) though. Others I tested 
> were awful. The result would be more interference between radios that are 
> physically close to each other and on the same band. such as contest and 
> Dxpedition stations. The low phase noise is a big reason that Elecrafts are 
> prized for such applications. Both RX and TX are affected.
> 
> I make replacement TCXOs for Kenwood TS-590s. They also use an unusual 
> frequency but I was able to get a TCXO chip supplier to provide me a custom 
> frequency chip that I had to buy in some quantity. That allowed me to produce 
> a quality product, although things are upside down now with the component 
> shortages in the industry. If huge companies like auto makers and a company 
> with a decent volume like Elecraft have part procurement problems, you can 
> imagine how bad it is for a really small fry like myself.
> 
> Has Elecraft stated why they are no longer available? I have not checked with 
> my supplier recently, but I expect there would be no interest in low volume 
> runs when demand can't be met for their high volume parts.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Mark
> W7MLG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 5:58 PM Hank via Elecraft  
>> wrote:
>> I was thinking the same thing.  Several posters here said that the phase 
>> noise created was worse than the Elecraft part.  I do not understand enough 
>> about the process to understand how that works.  I keep hoping someone will 
>> buy one and try it out - and test the phase noise!
>> 
>> Hank
>> K4HYJ
>> 
>> 
>> - Original Message -
>> From: RVZ via Elecraft (elecraft@mailman.qth.net)
>> Date: 05/10/21 19:27
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] K3: KTCXO-3 Compatible Elecraft K3 TCXO 1 PPM High 
>> Stability Ref. Osc. Compatible
>> 
>> I'm interested in adding a KTCXO-3 to my K3S.  Since Elecraft no longer 
>> sells them I'm wondering if anyone has purchased one of the Chinese versions 
>> being sold on eBay and if so how it worked?  
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/182814802678
>> 
>> Tnx & 73, Dick- K9OM 
>> __
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>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to h...@optilink.us
>> 
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[Elecraft] Solution found for the Remote jack 13 not working

[Art Nienhouse]

*/The event that disabled  jack 13 from taking CI-V data from my 7610 to 
the KPA1500, Remote to Remote cable working was
I had changed the Menu XCVR Serial Host setting to Enabled it needs to 
be Disabled. I usually take notes of all changes but did not this time 
only remembering that the 7610 was not changing band and freq data via 
the CI-V cable. I can change bands to just listen and the ATU follows 
with out *TX* out put..all good as I see it.


I also have the [TUNE] jack on the Icom set to input the 12 input of the 
amp two cables two menu settings rig and amp tap [TUNE] on the amp no 
matter what mode the radio responds with a carrier the ATU tunes a new 
match click done .only thing could be better is a new K4 in place of 
the 7610 which will go into the Lazy Boy station .


XCVR Serial Host
Disabled

Trying to set up the Lazy Boy Ic7300 for Remote operation, my shack 7610 
now changes the amp band and freq automatically by tapping the band 
button on the radio .


The Remote running of the KPA1500 from the living room with the 7300 is 
working as it should it was frustrating getting this to work via my home 
Network the* key find *was I needed to have a 60 ft long PTT 
line RCA  to RCA for the amp to work or even to show the pass through RF 
and SWR with out the long PTT connection the display on the amp was not 
operational even thought RF was being passed through .


 I don't know why this is but it was a road block as well as using a 
cheep LAN cable that was intermittent at the input 14 on the amp no 
orange and green blinking lights at times, the remote switch for the 
modem LAN was also dark at times intermittent ...frustrating ... bad 
cheep LAN cable its all working now the key was keep the Menu choice 
Disabled thanks to Dick for taking the time to answer my e-mail.

Greatly Appreciated Dick.

Regards
Art
ka9zap
/*
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: KTCXO-3 Compatible Elecraft K3 TCXO 1 PPM High Stability Ref. Osc. Compatible

[Mark Goldberg]

Most Hams do not have the test equipment to measure phase noise. The big
issue is 49.380 MHz is an unusual frequency and probably a custom order
frequency standard. The knockoff makers generally don't spend for a custom
part. They take a standard TCXO and generate that frequency using a crappy
PLL based synthesizer with high phase noise and lots of spurs. I have not
tested this particular type (Elecraft replacement) though. Others I tested
were awful. The result would be more interference between radios that are
physically close to each other and on the same band. such as contest and
Dxpedition stations. The low phase noise is a big reason that Elecrafts are
prized for such applications. Both RX and TX are affected.

I make replacement TCXOs for Kenwood TS-590s. They also use an unusual
frequency but I was able to get a TCXO chip supplier to provide me a custom
frequency chip that I had to buy in some quantity. That allowed me to
produce a quality product, although things are upside down now with the
component shortages in the industry. If huge companies like auto makers and
a company with a decent volume like Elecraft have part procurement
problems, you can imagine how bad it is for a really small fry like myself.

Has Elecraft stated why they are no longer available? I have not checked
with my supplier recently, but I expect there would be no interest in low
volume runs when demand can't be met for their high volume parts.

73,

Mark
W7MLG





On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 5:58 PM Hank via Elecraft 
wrote:

> I was thinking the same thing.  Several posters here said that the phase
> noise created was worse than the Elecraft part.  I do not understand enough
> about the process to understand how that works.  I keep hoping someone will
> buy one and try it out - and test the phase noise!
>
> Hank
> K4HYJ
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: RVZ via Elecraft (elecraft@mailman.qth.net)
> Date: 05/10/21 19:27
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3: KTCXO-3 Compatible Elecraft K3 TCXO 1 PPM High
> Stability Ref. Osc. Compatible
>
> I'm interested in adding a KTCXO-3 to my K3S.  Since Elecraft no longer
> sells them I'm wondering if anyone has purchased one of the Chinese
> versions being sold on eBay and if so how it worked?
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/182814802678
>
> Tnx & 73, Dick- K9OM
> __
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[Elecraft] For Sale: KX-3

[David Inger]

I've decided it's time to get serious about saving money for a K4 purchase in 
the not-to-distant future.  My KX-3 (S/N 62**) gets very little use, so it's 
time to let it get.  The radio has only been used a few times outside for 
backyard or picnic table "dxpeditions."

This is a fully loaded radio with all options (except for the 2-meter module),  
It includes:

* KXFL3 - dual bandpass roofing filter
* KXAT3 - automatic tuner
* KXBC - charger (with realtime clock) for internal NIMH batteries
* MH3 - hand mic
* KX3-PCKT - accessory cable package
* KXSER - radio-to-computer USB cable
* Pro Audio Engineering KX31 heatsink
* Nifty Mini-Manual for the KX3
* Fred Katy's book - "The Elecraft KX-Line."
* The Elecraft KX3 Owners Manual

I think 60% of the original price is fair for this pristine radio.  $1200 plus 
Priority Mail shipping ($21.90) to any US ZIP Code.

I will be happy to send pictures to anyone seriously interested in the 
purchase, if you can put up with my primitive photography skills.

73 de K6SBA

David in Santa Barbara, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 s/n 2274 update to new synthesizer board

[Bill Frantz]

When I upgraded my synths, the big problem was getting the TMP 
connectors correctly replugged. The manual said where to run 
them, but getting them reliably plugged in was my problem. You 
need to get the center conductor to slip smoothly into the 
socket. Then the rest of the connector will go in easily.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 5/10/21 at 10:54 AM, elecraft@mailman.qth.net (JOHN LAWRENCE 
via Elecraft) wrote:



Hi 
any hands on experiences detail that might be useful if I do 
it myself when the kit arrives.  Thanks

John, W1QS


---
Bill Frantz|"We used to quip that "password" is the most common
408-348-7900   | password. Now it's 'password1.' Who said 
users haven't

www.pwpconsult.com | learned anything about security?" -- Bruce Schneier

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: KTCXO-3 Compatible Elecraft K3 TCXO 1 PPM High Stability Ref. Osc. Compatible

[Hank via Elecraft]

I was thinking the same thing.  Several posters here said that the phase noise 
created was worse than the Elecraft part.  I do not understand enough about the 
process to understand how that works.  I keep hoping someone will buy one and 
try it out - and test the phase noise!

Hank
K4HYJ


- Original Message -
From: RVZ via Elecraft (elecraft@mailman.qth.net)
Date: 05/10/21 19:27
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: KTCXO-3 Compatible Elecraft K3 TCXO 1 PPM High 
Stability Ref. Osc. Compatible

I'm interested in adding a KTCXO-3 to my K3S.  Since Elecraft no longer sells 
them I'm wondering if anyone has purchased one of the Chinese versions being 
sold on eBay and if so how it worked?  https://www.ebay.com/itm/182814802678

Tnx & 73, Dick- K9OM 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500-KAT500 tuning settings

[Wes]

Why is it obvious?  Actually, I don't. I have a tri-band Yagi that I also tune 
for 12 and 17.  So each band has a different tuning solution, which has nothing 
to do with a different antenna spigot.  And note I said, "for instance", i.e. 
for example.


K3WYC has pointed out the pitfall of relying on r-f switching.

Wes  N7WS

On 5/10/2021 8:26 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
So you obviously have a different antenna on 10m than you do on 20m. Do you 
have different antennas on every band?  You can only connect a maximum of 
three antennas to a KAT500.


I use a Top Ten band decoder to automatically switch an external coax relay 
box, no TX is necessary.


John KK9A


Wes wes_n7ws wrote:


But back to the issue at hand.  If I'm tuned up and working on 20-meters but
want to quickly listen to 10-meters for instance, why should I have to transmit
on 10 just to switch antennas?

Wes  N7WS 


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[Elecraft] K3: KTCXO-3 Compatible Elecraft K3 TCXO 1 PPM High Stability Ref. Osc. Compatible

[RVZ via Elecraft]

I'm interested in adding a KTCXO-3 to my K3S.  Since Elecraft no longer sells 
them I'm wondering if anyone has purchased one of the Chinese versions being 
sold on eBay and if so how it worked?  https://www.ebay.com/itm/182814802678

Tnx & 73, Dick- K9OM 
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[Elecraft] UHF - W2 Sensor

[Ken Roberson via Elecraft]

Anyone have a W2 - DCV/U 200a_144-450 MHz UHF sensor for sale contact me.
My email is good on QRZ -- TU 73 Ken K5DNL

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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone Jack Cover

[Gwen Patton]

I think the assumption is that if it's a portable radio (such as the KX3)
or a radio that's made sort of portable by putting it in a crash case and
taking it on a DXPedition (such as the various flavors of K3), that maybe
somewhere along the way an albatross might leave a deposit on the threads
or something.

I've got a 3d printer. I used it a bunch a year ago. Now, the only thing
that keeps it from becoming a coat rack is that it's nowhere near where the
coats are. Not because I don't see good uses for it -- heaven forfend! --
but I simply don't have the energy to putter around with it! I've got all
the cool software, I've played around with the various slicers and splicers
and modelers (oh, my!) and I find that I simply don't have the spoons to
deal with the thing very often, much as I would like to. I'm not as good at
modeling as I thought I was -- back in the old ray-tracing days I did okay
-- but the current crop of tools (Great Ghu on a pogo stick, don't get me
started on how much of a pain in the tuchis Blender is!) can be a kilometer
the other side of too damn much. And just as soon as I start getting the
hang of a tool, the company that makes it changes their (dingbatted,
expurgated, censored) licensing for the program and suddenly I can't afford
to use it. (I'm looking at YOU, Fusion 360!) So now I'm back to Tinkercad
and trying to make sense out of AC3D to see if it'll serve (I think it
will, last time I had the energy to look at it). I've got lots of ideas for
stuff to make, and could even see myself making a 3d printer project for
the key socket adapter box I made someday.

It's a nice little box that consolidates the key sockets in one place, and
the same kind of connectors, instead of one kind on the left side of my KX3
and another, totally-incompatible with anything but the Elecraft paddle on
the bottom. I have 4 TRS sockets, two of which are set up for Paddle and
run to a jumper cable into the left side key socket, and two of which
connect to the bottom 2x2 header and are set for Hand Key. I used the
paddle screws for the bottom connector to hold the box to the bottom of the
radio, where it fits very neatly. If I want to plug in a straight key, I
use one of the two right-hand sockets. If I want to connect a paddle, it
goes into one of the sockets on the right. I get an extra socket for each
type as well. Right now, I have my Torsion Bar Cootie Paddle plugged into
it on the "Paddle" side, but if I want it to be a Cootie, I just move it to
the jacks on the right -- they're pre-jumpered to serve for a Cootie,
straight key, or bug. Very convenient!  But I digress...

The whole "cover up the ports so they don't get filled with schmutz"
concept is a good one IF you take the radio where there be schmutz. My KX3
is on a RAM mount clamped to the wire "bread" rack next to my recliner, the
PX3 right above it. I used SideFX mounts, so I can unclip the radio and/or
Panadapter at any time...if I want to hurt myself, as that (more dingbats,
expurgations, and censoriousness) polycarbonate stuff is STIFF, and my
fingers aren't what they used to be. So the KX3 stays in the house and the
cheaper and less-dear IQ32 or other kit built rigs go with me to the park.
Or DID go with me to the park...we'll see if I'm able to do that any more
once it warms up a bit more and stops raining every 43.5 minutes out of
nowhere. The lockdowns really messed up my ability to get any meaningful
exercise, and I find it hard to do a whole heck of a lot of walking these
days.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
73,
Gwen, NG3P


On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 1:53 PM Jim Brown  wrote:

> I don't understand the need to have a cover for an unused jack that's
> not outside, exposed to the elements.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] RF Cable From KX3 to KXPA 100

[Reed Fite]

I use Belden RG-174 from KX3 to amp. No problems on loss because it is only 2 
feet long.  I use an RCA male connector on each end of RG-174 & that plugs into 
the RCA female to BNC adapter on the KX3 side & RCA female to PL-259 adapter on 
KXPA100. Just leave adapters on amp & KX3 which makes a very easy hookup.  



For portable use, I also use Belden RG-174, 25 feet, for the feeder to the 
antenna. Makes it easy to pack & a very quick disconnect if a large dog or 
child runs into the coax pulling the RCA connector from the rig instead of 
pulling the rig off the table.



73,

Reed W4JZ 


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[Elecraft] Microphone Jack Cover

[PATRICK HICKS]

I made several covers from discarded PL239 shells left from replacing old 
connectors. Simply cut the shell down above the knurled area and glue or solder 
a plate in the hole. This was before 3D printing was widely available.

73,
PJH, N7PH
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100

[Don Wilhelm]

Larry,

The KPA100UPKT totally revamps the T-R switch section on the KPA100, so 
the answer is yes.
There is a chance that there may be a nasty spur when on 40 meters - at 
about 8 MHz if you do not have the upgrade.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 5/10/2021 4:04 PM, Larry Dodson via Elecraft wrote:

I built my KPA100 14 years ago in a separate enclosure and it still works
fine. I wonder if the upgrade kit would provide improved performance. Any
feed back will be appreciated.
Larry - GOIKE



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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Fault

[Mike K8CN]

The lack of output power on both 10 and 12 meters suggests a problem in
either the lowpass filter (post-PA) or bandpass filter (pre-low power PA),
which in both instances is common to those two bands.  I would check relay
activations on the input and output sides of both the BPF and LPF 10/12
meter filter sections to be sure that those filters are being selected.

You should try to listen on 10 and 12 meters if you have an external signal
source (signal generator or another transmitter into a dummy load with a
length of wire for a RX antenna near the dummy load) for those bands - are
you able to hear a test signal?

And the most obvious suggestion, which I would check first: do you have the
proper antenna port selected on the front panel? (ANT 1 or ANT 2)  The
antenna port selection is band-specific.  Presumably, the proper antenna
port was selected for the dummy load test you ran?

73,
Mike, K8CN





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[Elecraft] K2/100

[Larry Dodson via Elecraft]

I built my KPA100 14 years ago in a separate enclosure and it still works
fine. I wonder if the upgrade kit would provide improved performance. Any
feed back will be appreciated.
Larry - GOIKE
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[Elecraft] KPA500-KAT500 tuning settings

[Bob McGraw]

If one uses the correct cable between the K3 and the KAT500 and the 
KPA500 one does not have to transmit a dit to switch bands. Plus why 
would one want to transmit un-necessarily when just changing bands?   
Makes no sense to me.


73

Bob, K4TAX


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 10:26:48 -0500
From:j...@kk9a.com
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500-KAT500 tuning settings
Message-ID:
<20210510102648.horde.fifed99krxeyvdjgdpfd...@www11.qth.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed; DelSp=Yes

So you obviously have a different antenna on 10m than you do on 20m.
Do you have different antennas on every band?  You can only connect a
maximum of three antennas to a KAT500.

I use a Top Ten band decoder to automatically switch an external coax
relay box, no TX is necessary.

John KK9A


Wes wes_n7ws wrote:


But back to the issue at hand.  If I'm tuned up and working on 20-meters but
want to quickly listen to 10-meters for instance, why should I have to
transmit
on 10 just to switch antennas?

Wes  N7WS


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500-KAT500 tuning settings

[Andy Durbin]

"Kenwood rigs have master/slave menu options designed to enable one Kenwood
rig to follow the frequency of another.  The KAT500 manual recommends
enabling these options, but I cannot confirm if they affect the frequency
reported by the FA; command.  If you have a null modem cable, can you
please connect it to the TS-590 COM port when these options are enabled,
and report what gets output when SPLIT is ON?"

Bob,

My TS-590S COM port is connected to my controller which has the ability to 
output a comprehensive set of frequency data to the diagnostic log.  E.g.

125:50:02.165  Log all frequency data
IF0001810  0040402001;FA0001810;FB00018100500;
VFO A = 1810
VFO B = 18100500
RIT/XIT =  0040
IF_P4 = 0 (1=RIT active)
IF_P5 = 0 (1=XIT active)
IF_P8 = 0 (1=transmitting)
IF_P10 = 0 (0 = VFO A, 1 = VFO B, 2 = MEM)
IF_P12 = 1 ( 0 = Simplex, 1 = Split)
RX freq = 1810
TX freq = 18100500
Expected KAT f; = F 18100;

If that data would be useful to you I can run a TS-590S test for the 4 possible 
combinations of Menu 58 and 59.  I'd prefer not to change my station 
configuration.  The example shown above is for 58 off and 59 on.  This is the 
configuration I normally use.

73,
Andy, k3wyc





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[Elecraft] Share a port for KPA500

[Andy Durbin]

"I have a TS-890S that has a KPA500 connected to the  radio's serial 
port.   The amp follows the radio, no problem.  Very slick.

I also have a TS-590SG that I can use as a second receiver  for the 
TS-890.   For this to work right, the sub RX needs to connect to the 890 
via the serial port with a null modem cable and set to a 115,200 baud rate.

Is there a simple way to get the band data to the amp while the 2 radios 
are connected to  each other as described above?"

Does the TS-590SG/TS-890S absolutely have to be 115,200?   The KPA500 maximum 
data rate is 38,400.

If the TS-590SG/TS-890S link will work at 38,400 then it may be possible to 
pick off IF, FA and FB with a Y cable.  I don't know what subset of CAT 
commands is used when a TS-590SG is used as a second receiver so it may not be 
possible even if the interface does work at 38,400. 

Of course other options are available if an intermediate PC or smart controller 
can be used. 

73,
Andy, k3wyc
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[Elecraft] K3S Fault

[James Holohan]

Just in the last few days my K3S (Serial No. 11048) has developed a fault 
whereby there is little or no power out on the 12m and 10m bands even into a 
dummy load. All other bands are fine. Any help would be appreciated.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #7997 is alive

[David Haines]

I wish you all would stop talking about how much fun it is to build a 
K2!  It makes we want to order one or two!  But I'm trying to save up my 
pennies for when the K4 comes out in kit form.  And I'm still not tired 
of my trusty KX3, yet!


david
KC1DNY
in the forests of Maine

On 5/7/2021 8:46 PM, Doug Person wrote:
I've built 5 K2s. The last one is a keeper. I built several for other 
people. I still get a kick out of turning it on and making contacts 
with a "kit" radio. Mine is a 100 watts, ssb adapter and the outboard 
tuner. Wired for a Kenwood hand mike. I often think that if it was the 
only rig I owned I would be completely satisfied. Receiver sounds 
great and I get great audio reports. If anyone has ever considered 
building one - go for it. The satisfaction of turning it on and making 
contacts with something you put some serious time in to build is an 
experience I highly recommend. I don't know if I've ever operated a 
better cw transceiver. And even in a crowded band on 20, it can hold 
its own. I love it.

73, Doug -- K0DXV

On 5/7/2021 5:50 PM, Carl Clawson wrote:
I'm 20 years late to the game but I finally built a K2. What a 
satisfying
project to build, and a delightful rig to operate. It doesn't have 
all the

performance and features of my fully-updated K3, but it's a great little
radio nonetheless.

I finished the final alignment and test Tuesday and have used it a 
couple

evenings now.

Now to build the SSB adapter and the 100 W amp.

73, Carl WS7L
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500-KAT500 tuning settings

[Bob Wilson, N6TV]

Andy,

Kenwood rigs have master/slave menu options designed to enable one Kenwood
rig to follow the frequency of another.  The KAT500 manual recommends
enabling these options, but I cannot confirm if they affect the frequency
reported by the FA; command.  If you have a null modem cable, can you
please connect it to the TS-590 COM port when these options are enabled,
and report what gets output when SPLIT is ON?

TS-590S:

Set *Menu 58* TRANSFER SPLIT FREQUENCY DATA TO ANOTHER TRANSCEIVER to *ON*
Set *Menu 59* COPY SPLIT FREQUENCY DATA TO VFO to *ON*


TS-590SG:

Set *Menu 64* TRANSFER SPLIT FREQUENCY DATA TO ANOTHER TRANSCEIVER to *ON*
Set *Menu 65* COPY SPLIT FREQUENCY DATA TO VFO to *ON*


TS-890S:


Set *Menu 7-04* Quick Data Transfer to *A (TX/RX)*

Set *Menu 7-05 *Overwrite Location (Quick Data Transfer) to *VFO*


TS-990S:

Set *Menu 7-02* Quick Data Transfer to *ON*

Set *Menu 7-03 *Overwrite Location (Quick Data Transfer) to *VFO*


73,
Bob, N6TV


On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 9:48 AM Andy Durbin  wrote:

> "You can only connect a  maximum of three antennas to a KAT500."
>
> Any time you use a KAT500 with multiple antennas connected, and you also
> use a KPA500, you run the risk that the band change RF blip will fault the
> tuner, or the amplifier, or both.   This happens because the RF pulse gets
> to the amplifier before the antenna is changed.  This problem is not seen
> if the antenna is switched by an automatic antenna switch separate from the
> KAT500.
>
> The problem can be easily avoided by having KAT500 and KPA500 follow the
> TX VFO when the transceiver is in receive mode.
>
> Kenwood (at least the TS-590) does not restrict which VFO is used for TX
> or RX.  In simplex operation either VFO can be in use.  For split operation
> either VFO can be the RX VFO and the other is the TX VFO.  Kenwood also
> allows memory channels to define TX and RX frequency.  Memory channel
> frequencies do not influence FA or FB.  They only change IF.  Following
> Kenwood VFO A is, as I said before, a weak solution.   Elecraft has known
> for years how to use Kenwood IF, FA, and FB to extract the TX frequency
> regardless of which VFO is in use.  It's done in KPA500 and KPA1500.
>
> I still hold onto some fading hope that, when K4 demands less development
> attention, Elecraft will release a firmware update for the KAT500.
>
> 73,
> Andy, k3wyc
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 (S) Weird Main RX issue DK5YA

[Keith Trinity WE6R]

OK, that info helps.
Does the Sub receiver also suffer when sharing the main?
There is a 3db splitter when you share the main antenna, so you should 
see that drop in both receives.
When the sub is on AUX antenna, it is using the coax straight out the 
back of the sub receiver to either the Aux BNC or to the ATU where it 
would use the OTHER antenna (from the main).


So, when the Sub is using MAIN, is it also down?

The 3db splitter is on the little Sub-In board at the back of the sub 
receiver, there could be a bad connection there, the relay or solder on 
the little wires to the transformer, or cracked solder joint on 
something like the little black choke-coil.


If both suffer when using the main, it could also be D25, just shotgun 
replace it.
Look for damaged parts on that little daughter board next to D25, BSF 
(Band Stop Filter).
It could also be something on the KXV3 transverter interface, you can 
pull and put two jumpers per the silkscreen. If it has the old single 
3-legged D5, shotgun replace that.

Keith WE6R Elecraft K3/K4 Tech


On 5/10/2021 9:32 AM, Udo DK5YA wrote:

Hello Keith,

thanks for your kind answer. I don't think that KPAIO3 is the suspect 
since it also happens at the TVTR RX input. I.e. when I feed exactly 
the same amount of HF to the TVTR input and AUX from the signal 
generator and hit diversity 6-8 DB are missing intermittent at the 
main RX.


73 Udo DK5YA

10.05.2021 17:53:49 Keith Trinity WE6R :

Hi Udo;
In addition to what N6TV suggested, also click above and below
12Watts.
You will hear the relay on the KPAIO3 riser board click.
Do that when the main RX is down, or click it a bunch to see if
you can force the problem.
If so, replace that relay.
Keith WE6R Elecraft K3/K4 Tech

Does rotating the MAIN RF GAIN knob back and forth make any difference?  Or
tapping the ANT or RX ANT buttons a lot to exercise the antenna relays?

I assume both receivers are listening to ANT1, and nothing is connected to
AUX RF or RX ANT.

What happens if you move the coax to ANT2?

73,
Bob, N6TV


On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 1:55 AM Udo Langenohl - DK5YA http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft>> wrote:

>/Gentleman, />//>/I have a problem with the main receiver on one of my K3s. 
The main />/receiver is between 6 and 8dB worse than the second receiver. The
stupid />/thing about it: it is not always like that, but the poor sensitivity 
/>/comes sometimes creeping or sometimes suddenly. It seems to have />/something 
to do with the transmit / receive switching. I checked
this />/very carefully with an HP8664A signal generator and a spectrum
analyzer. />/Sometimes both receivers are exactly the same, then the main
receiver />/slowly gets worse and worse (within a minute the amplification
drops by />/6-8dB) sometimes it happens immediately after switching from RX
to TX />/and back. Then it happens that after switching from RX to TX and
back />/again, both receivers are the same again. It can also happen that
the />/main receiver is initially 8dB worse than the second receiver, but 
/>/without RX / TX switching the missing 6-8dB are suddenly there
again - />/in the middle of receiving mode, without switching. So it's
intermittent />/and it drives me crazy not to find out what's going on. Is 
that
another />/bad pin diode somewhere in the main receiver and if so: which
one? Maybe />/someone has an idea? Help is very much appreciated. />//>/This is a K3 
#56xx with all features and all upgrades so its more or />/less a K3S rather than an K3. 
/>//>/73 Udo, DK5YA/



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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone Jack Cover

[Jim Brown]

I don't understand the need to have a cover for an unused jack that's 
not outside, exposed to the elements.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 up-date

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Great.  Thanks for the tip.  Downloaded and added to my ham to-do list, which 
is rapidly getting lengthier. HI HI.
Lou W7HV

On Monday, May 10, 2021, 8:35:36 AM MDT, Don Wilhelm  
wrote:  
 
 Lou,

Download the K2 A to B instructions and inspect your K2 to see which 
mods have been installed.
Physical inspection is the only way I know to do it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/10/2021 8:21 AM, Louandzip via Elecraft wrote:
>  One thing that's holding me up is doing the research to figure out which 
>mods I've done and which I should do.  Mine is 1818 and I fervently kept up 
>with all the mods, updates, and tweaks for 3 or 4 years after I built it.  You 
>mention replacing the IF xtals. I know I did that at some point because I have 
>a little paper envelope with the set I pulled out, and I remember doing the 
>improved grounding mod of soldering the grounding wires to the base of the 
>xtal cans. IIRC, at the time some were adding additional SMT bypass caps at 
>the xtals but IDK where that went.  There were many temp drift tweaks and mods 
>going on too and I have many pages in my notebook experimenting with those, 
>especially with the heat introduced by the KPA100.  I have lot's of cryptic 
>notes like: "Removed RF C180 to flatten 2nd IF filter.  Added 10pF NPO in 
>parallel with C72 to reduce VCO voltages.  Set L30 for 6V.  Removed 1 PLL xtal 
>X1 per Wayne." and it goes on.
>
> Perhaps the main obstacle is it's still working FB for me.  There's always 
> that sage piece of wisdom lurking in the back of my mind, "Don't fix it if it 
> ain't broke."  HI HI
> Lou W7HV
>
>

  
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[Elecraft] Share a port for KPA500

[Steve Forst via Elecraft]

I have a TS-890S that has a KPA500 connected to the  radio's serial 
port.   The amp follows the radio, no problem.  Very slick.


I also have a TS-590SG that I can use as a second receiver  for the 
TS-890.   For this to work right, the sub RX needs to connect to the 890 
via the serial port with a null modem cable and set to a 115,200 baud rate.



Is there a simple way to get the band data to the amp while the 2 radios 
are connected to  each other as described above?


I guess I can use the amp's RF sensing, but  have always loved having 
the amp follow the radio.


73, Steve KW3A  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3s keying with bugs, ponderings

[John Oppenheimer]

Hi Roy,

A question best answered with a measurement. Appended to:
https://www.kn5l.net/debounce555/

is waveform for a Bug running just under 40WPM. One small weight at
fastest setting.

John KN5L

On 5/10/21 11:17 AM, Roy wrote:
> Relating to contact bounce, I wonder what the typical length of a bounce 
> is? We hear QRQ stations operating at 60+ wpm all the time. If Elecraft 
> designed to smooth out such short "dots" from semi-auto key bounce, then 
> perhaps a K4 would not allow 70+ wpm speeds to be sent either?
> 
> 73,  Roy   K6XK
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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone Jack Cover

[David Christ]

Sorry you felt it was unduly negative.  Written language is poor at 
transmitting nuance.  If I had such a printer I might consider making a cover.  
But I don’t and I too  live in a less populated area and the closest person I 
know who has a printer is in Arizona.  I am long retired and soon will need to 
be moving out of my house.  I have no professional reason to support the 
purchase of a 3D printer and before long I would be needing to get rid of it 
anyway.  So for me the obvious choice is to buy a cover.  And I prefer chrome 
anyway.

I think my question of why is legitimate and was answered satisfactorily by 
W0EB in a private email.  I will admit that my comment on 3D printers may have 
seemed a bit harsh.  However, I don’t see them as common as he does (it would 
be interesting to know what percentage of hams have one) and examining my own 
life, short of having a business that supports one, I find it hard to see the 
economic value for the average ham to have one.  My lack of Ideas does not mean 
there are not compelling uses.  In fact I would love to hear from other hams as 
to how they have found a 3D printer useful especially for problems for which no 
other solution is available.

Again sorry if you felt offended.

Peace

73

David K0LUM

> On May 10, 2021, at 11:44 AM, KJ7SOY  wrote:
> 
> I think that’s a bit of a negative viewpoint. Here’s another approach:
> 
> I have a 3-D printer. I don’t need to justify the fact that I have it.  I use 
> it daily, most often multiple times a day, both personally and 
> professionally. It’s always here and always available, I always have filament 
> for it, and it can produce a cap much faster than getting one shipped to me 
> since I live rurally and there’s nowhere local to buy one. Why shouldn’t I 
> simply print one since I already have the printer?
> 
> 73
> -Adrian
> KJ7SOY
> 
> 
>> On May 10, 2021, at 9:31 AM, David Christ  wrote:
>> 
>> Why go to the trouble?  Metal and plastic caps for SO-239 are available all 
>> over for a small price.
>> 
>> The only reason I can see to 3D print it is because one wants to justify 
>> having the printer
>> 
>> David K0LUM
>> 
>>> On May 10, 2021, at 10:20 AM, Jim Sheldon  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Just found a really nice looking SO-239 cover design for 3D printing on 
>>> Thingiverse.com.  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854560  It just so 
>>> happens to fit the threads on the 8 pin microphone jack used on the K3, and 
>>> many other radios.
>>> 
>>> For those like myself who operate 99 percent CW and don't even keep a 
>>> microphone connected to their K2, K3, K3S, K4, etc, this is a useful item 
>>> to protect both the outer threads of the jack and keep crud from entering 
>>> the pin area.
>>> 
>>> With the proliferation of 3D printers in many ham workshops these days, if 
>>> you don't have one, it should be relatively easy to find someone who has.
>>> 
>>> Jim Sheldon, W0EB
>>> 
>>> __
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>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone Jack Cover

[Julia Tuttle]

Yeah, it's semi-instant gratification.

It probably also saves money because you're not paying shipping or retail
markup.

It might also save some carbon emissions depending on how frequently your
delivery folks come by, if that's something that concerns you.

But please do not discount that "3D printers are cool" is a valid reason to
own and use one!

On Mon, May 10, 2021, 12:46 KJ7SOY  wrote:

> I think that’s a bit of a negative viewpoint. Here’s another approach:
>
> I have a 3-D printer. I don’t need to justify the fact that I have it.  I
> use it daily, most often multiple times a day, both personally and
> professionally. It’s always here and always available, I always have
> filament for it, and it can produce a cap much faster than getting one
> shipped to me since I live rurally and there’s nowhere local to buy one.
> Why shouldn’t I simply print one since I already have the printer?
>
> 73
> -Adrian
> KJ7SOY
>
>
> > On May 10, 2021, at 9:31 AM, David Christ  wrote:
> >
> > Why go to the trouble?  Metal and plastic caps for SO-239 are available
> all over for a small price.
> >
> > The only reason I can see to 3D print it is because one wants to justify
> having the printer
> >
> > David K0LUM
> >
> >> On May 10, 2021, at 10:20 AM, Jim Sheldon  wrote:
> >>
> >> Just found a really nice looking SO-239 cover design for 3D printing on
> Thingiverse.com.  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854560  It just so
> happens to fit the threads on the 8 pin microphone jack used on the K3, and
> many other radios.
> >>
> >> For those like myself who operate 99 percent CW and don't even keep a
> microphone connected to their K2, K3, K3S, K4, etc, this is a useful item
> to protect both the outer threads of the jack and keep crud from entering
> the pin area.
> >>
> >> With the proliferation of 3D printers in many ham workshops these days,
> if you don't have one, it should be relatively easy to find someone who has.
> >>
> >> Jim Sheldon, W0EB
> >>
> >> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone Jack Cover

[Dave Cole]

Why not use a metal cap from American Radio Supply?  See:

https://www.americanradiosupply.com/microphone-connector-cap-dust-cover-most-all-ham-radio-transceivers/

fits the mic connector on the front of the rig.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 5/10/21 9:29 AM, David Christ wrote:

Why go to the trouble?  Metal and plastic caps for SO-239 are available all 
over for a small price.

The only reason I can see to 3D print it is because one wants to justify having 
the printer

David K0LUM


On May 10, 2021, at 10:20 AM, Jim Sheldon  wrote:

Just found a really nice looking SO-239 cover design for 3D printing on 
Thingiverse.com.  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854560  It just so happens 
to fit the threads on the 8 pin microphone jack used on the K3, and many other 
radios.

For those like myself who operate 99 percent CW and don't even keep a 
microphone connected to their K2, K3, K3S, K4, etc, this is a useful item to 
protect both the outer threads of the jack and keep crud from entering the pin 
area.

With the proliferation of 3D printers in many ham workshops these days, if you 
don't have one, it should be relatively easy to find someone who has.

Jim Sheldon, W0EB

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500-KAT500 tuning settings

[Andy Durbin]

"You can only connect a  maximum of three antennas to a KAT500."

Any time you use a KAT500 with multiple antennas connected, and you also use a 
KPA500, you run the risk that the band change RF blip will fault the tuner, or 
the amplifier, or both.   This happens because the RF pulse gets to the 
amplifier before the antenna is changed.  This problem is not seen if the 
antenna is switched by an automatic antenna switch separate from the KAT500.

The problem can be easily avoided by having KAT500 and KPA500 follow the TX VFO 
when the transceiver is in receive mode.

Kenwood (at least the TS-590) does not restrict which VFO is used for TX or RX. 
 In simplex operation either VFO can be in use.  For split operation either VFO 
can be the RX VFO and the other is the TX VFO.  Kenwood also allows memory 
channels to define TX and RX frequency.  Memory channel frequencies do not 
influence FA or FB.  They only change IF.  Following Kenwood VFO A is, as I 
said before, a weak solution.   Elecraft has known for years how to use Kenwood 
IF, FA, and FB to extract the TX frequency regardless of which VFO is in use.  
It's done in KPA500 and KPA1500.

I still hold onto some fading hope that, when K4 demands less development 
attention, Elecraft will release a firmware update for the KAT500.

73,
Andy, k3wyc










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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone Jack Cover

[KJ7SOY]

I think that’s a bit of a negative viewpoint. Here’s another approach:

I have a 3-D printer. I don’t need to justify the fact that I have it.  I use 
it daily, most often multiple times a day, both personally and professionally. 
It’s always here and always available, I always have filament for it, and it 
can produce a cap much faster than getting one shipped to me since I live 
rurally and there’s nowhere local to buy one. Why shouldn’t I simply print one 
since I already have the printer?

73
-Adrian
KJ7SOY


> On May 10, 2021, at 9:31 AM, David Christ  wrote:
> 
> Why go to the trouble?  Metal and plastic caps for SO-239 are available all 
> over for a small price.
> 
> The only reason I can see to 3D print it is because one wants to justify 
> having the printer
> 
> David K0LUM
> 
>> On May 10, 2021, at 10:20 AM, Jim Sheldon  wrote:
>> 
>> Just found a really nice looking SO-239 cover design for 3D printing on 
>> Thingiverse.com.  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854560  It just so 
>> happens to fit the threads on the 8 pin microphone jack used on the K3, and 
>> many other radios.
>> 
>> For those like myself who operate 99 percent CW and don't even keep a 
>> microphone connected to their K2, K3, K3S, K4, etc, this is a useful item to 
>> protect both the outer threads of the jack and keep crud from entering the 
>> pin area.
>> 
>> With the proliferation of 3D printers in many ham workshops these days, if 
>> you don't have one, it should be relatively easy to find someone who has.
>> 
>> Jim Sheldon, W0EB
>> 
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone Jack Cover

[David Christ]

Why go to the trouble?  Metal and plastic caps for SO-239 are available all 
over for a small price.

The only reason I can see to 3D print it is because one wants to justify having 
the printer

David K0LUM

> On May 10, 2021, at 10:20 AM, Jim Sheldon  wrote:
> 
> Just found a really nice looking SO-239 cover design for 3D printing on 
> Thingiverse.com.  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854560  It just so 
> happens to fit the threads on the 8 pin microphone jack used on the K3, and 
> many other radios.
> 
> For those like myself who operate 99 percent CW and don't even keep a 
> microphone connected to their K2, K3, K3S, K4, etc, this is a useful item to 
> protect both the outer threads of the jack and keep crud from entering the 
> pin area.
> 
> With the proliferation of 3D printers in many ham workshops these days, if 
> you don't have one, it should be relatively easy to find someone who has.
> 
> Jim Sheldon, W0EB
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3s keying with bugs, ponderings

[Walter Underwood]

>From a quick search, contact bounce appears to last less than 10 ms, which is 
>similar to the rise time for a CW signal. Dit duration at 70 wpm should be 17 
>ms. Debounce should be similar to shaping the rise time. 70 wpm is certainly 
>close to the limit, even for the signal shaping.

https://www.eejournal.com/article/ultimate-guide-to-switch-debounce-part-4/ 

https://morsecode.world/international/timing.html 


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On May 10, 2021, at 9:17 AM, Roy  wrote:
> 
> Relating to contact bounce, I wonder what the typical length of a bounce is? 
> We hear QRQ stations operating at 60+ wpm all the time. If Elecraft designed 
> to smooth out such short "dots" from semi-auto key bounce, then perhaps a K4 
> would not allow 70+ wpm speeds to be sent either?
> 
> 73,  Roy   K6XK
> 
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[Elecraft] K3/K3s keying with bugs, ponderings

[Roy]

Relating to contact bounce, I wonder what the typical length of a bounce 
is? We hear QRQ stations operating at 60+ wpm all the time. If Elecraft 
designed to smooth out such short "dots" from semi-auto key bounce, then 
perhaps a K4 would not allow 70+ wpm speeds to be sent either?


73,  Roy   K6XK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 (S) Weird Main RX issue DK5YA

[Keith Trinity WE6R]

Hi Udo;
In addition to what N6TV suggested, also click above and below 12Watts.
You will hear the relay on the KPAIO3 riser board click.
Do that when the main RX is down, or click it a bunch to see if you can 
force the problem.

If so, replace that relay.
Keith WE6R Elecraft K3/K4 Tech

Does rotating the MAIN RF GAIN knob back and forth make any difference?  Or
tapping the ANT or RX ANT buttons a lot to exercise the antenna relays?

I assume both receivers are listening to ANT1, and nothing is connected to
AUX RF or RX ANT.

What happens if you move the coax to ANT2?

73,
Bob, N6TV


On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 1:55 AM Udo Langenohl - DK5YA http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft>> wrote:


/Gentleman, />//>/I have a problem with the main receiver on one of my K3s. The main />/receiver is between 6 and 
8dB worse than the second receiver. The stupid />/thing about it: it is not always like that, but the poor sensitivity 
/>/comes sometimes creeping or sometimes suddenly. It seems to have />/something to do with the transmit / receive 
switching. I checked this />/very carefully with an HP8664A signal generator and a spectrum analyzer. />/Sometimes 
both receivers are exactly the same, then the main receiver />/slowly gets worse and worse (within a minute the 
amplification drops by />/6-8dB) sometimes it happens immediately after switching from RX to TX />/and back. Then it 
happens that after switching from RX to TX and back />/again, both receivers are the same again. It can also happen that 
the />/main receiver is initially 8dB worse than the second receiver, but />/without RX / TX switching the missing 
6-8dB are suddenly there again - />/in the middle of receivin

g mode, without switching. So it's intermittent />/and it drives me crazy not to find out what's 
going on. Is that another />/bad pin diode somewhere in the main receiver and if so: which one? 
Maybe />/someone has an idea? Help is very much appreciated. />//>/This is a K3 #56xx with all 
features and all upgrades so its more or />/less a K3S rather than an K3. />//>/73 Udo, DK5YA/

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 s/n 2274 update to new synthesizer board

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

Yes, there are lockwashers behind the board - when removing the old 
synth, do not initially remove the screws completely - loosen them until 
they are almost out, then tilt the board toward the rear and push the 
lockwashers up against the old synth board.
Now you can fully remove the screws without dropping the lockwashers 
(they will stay on the screws if you are careful)


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/10/2021 10:54 AM, JOHN LAWRENCE via Elecraft wrote:

Hi
any hands on experiences detail that might be useful if I do it myself when the 
kit arrives.  Thanks
John, W1QS





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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500-KAT500 tuning settings

[john]

So you obviously have a different antenna on 10m than you do on 20m.  
Do you have different antennas on every band?  You can only connect a  
maximum of three antennas to a KAT500.


I use a Top Ten band decoder to automatically switch an external coax  
relay box, no TX is necessary.


John KK9A


Wes wes_n7ws wrote:


But back to the issue at hand.  If I'm tuned up and working on 20-meters but
want to quickly listen to 10-meters for instance, why should I have to  
transmit

on 10 just to switch antennas?

Wes  N7WS

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[Elecraft] Microphone Jack Cover

[Jim Sheldon]

Just found a really nice looking SO-239 cover design for 3D printing on 
Thingiverse.com.  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854560  It just so happens 
to fit the threads on the 8 pin microphone jack used on the K3, and many other 
radios.

For those like myself who operate 99 percent CW and don't even keep a 
microphone connected to their K2, K3, K3S, K4, etc, this is a useful item to 
protect both the outer threads of the jack and keep crud from entering the pin 
area.

With the proliferation of 3D printers in many ham workshops these days, if you 
don't have one, it should be relatively easy to find someone who has.

Jim Sheldon, W0EB

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[Elecraft] K3 s/n 2274 update to new synthesizer board

[JOHN LAWRENCE via Elecraft]

Hi 
any hands on experiences detail that might be useful if I do it myself when the 
kit arrives.  Thanks
John, W1QS




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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 up-date

[Don Wilhelm]

Lou,

Download the K2 A to B instructions and inspect your K2 to see which 
mods have been installed.

Physical inspection is the only way I know to do it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/10/2021 8:21 AM, Louandzip via Elecraft wrote:

  One thing that's holding me up is doing the research to figure out which mods I've done 
and which I should do.  Mine is 1818 and I fervently kept up with all the mods, updates, 
and tweaks for 3 or 4 years after I built it.  You mention replacing the IF xtals. I know 
I did that at some point because I have a little paper envelope with the set I pulled 
out, and I remember doing the improved grounding mod of soldering the grounding wires to 
the base of the xtal cans. IIRC, at the time some were adding additional SMT bypass caps 
at the xtals but IDK where that went.  There were many temp drift tweaks and mods going 
on too and I have many pages in my notebook experimenting with those, especially with the 
heat introduced by the KPA100.  I have lot's of cryptic notes like: "Removed RF C180 
to flatten 2nd IF filter.  Added 10pF NPO in parallel with C72 to reduce VCO voltages.  
Set L30 for 6V.  Removed 1 PLL xtal X1 per Wayne." and it goes on.

Perhaps the main obstacle is it's still working FB for me.  There's always that sage 
piece of wisdom lurking in the back of my mind, "Don't fix it if it ain't 
broke."  HI HI
Lou W7HV




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[Elecraft] Fwd: Re[2]: Elecraft CW keying mistakes using bugs - semiautomatic keys

[glcazzola]

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 up-date

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 One thing that's holding me up is doing the research to figure out which mods 
I've done and which I should do.  Mine is 1818 and I fervently kept up with all 
the mods, updates, and tweaks for 3 or 4 years after I built it.  You mention 
replacing the IF xtals. I know I did that at some point because I have a little 
paper envelope with the set I pulled out, and I remember doing the improved 
grounding mod of soldering the grounding wires to the base of the xtal cans. 
IIRC, at the time some were adding additional SMT bypass caps at the xtals but 
IDK where that went.  There were many temp drift tweaks and mods going on too 
and I have many pages in my notebook experimenting with those, especially with 
the heat introduced by the KPA100.  I have lot's of cryptic notes like: 
"Removed RF C180 to flatten 2nd IF filter.  Added 10pF NPO in parallel with C72 
to reduce VCO voltages.  Set L30 for 6V.  Removed 1 PLL xtal X1 per Wayne." and 
it goes on. 

Perhaps the main obstacle is it's still working FB for me.  There's always that 
sage piece of wisdom lurking in the back of my mind, "Don't fix it if it ain't 
broke."  HI HI
Lou W7HV  

On Sunday, May 9, 2021, 6:40:05 PM MDT, Don Wilhelm  wrote: 
 
 
 Greert Jan de Groot,

If you have an earlier K2, I suggest that you do the other upgrades.
If your K2 is below SN 3000, then the K2ATOB mods are applicable - 
download the K2ATOB instructions for a list of all the mods are required.
If your SN is below 2560, I recommend replacing the IF crystals for a 
better IF filter response.
Those steps will bring it up to date except for the K2 Keying Waveshape 
mod which is currently not available from Elecraft as a kit.  I can give 
you instructions on how to install it on your K2 if necessary.  K2s 
above SN 4660 have that mod already installed.

73,
Don W3FPR



On 5/9/2021 5:36 PM, Geert Jan de Groot wrote:
> On 09/05/2021 20:54, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
>> Don, W3FPR used to do much of this work on K2 transceivers, but he has
>> retired from that role.  Dave, W8FGU has assumed Don's role. Alan, W3DVX
>> also provides such services.  Both have posted periodically to this 
>> forum.
>> There may be others who are experienced K2 upgraders, but these are the
>> folks that come to mind.
>
> I built my KPA100 15 years ago or so and only recently I investigated 
> updates. The KPA module has seen a number of design updates over the 
> years and it makes sense to investigate. I've updated mine (thanks 
> QRP-shop for getting the mod kits in Europe, through Corona times!) 
> and at the end of a long evening I have a bag of swapped-out parts and 
> a PA that worked quite a bit better, feels like a new unit.
>
> I have not used one of the upgraders (being in Europe, postage and 
> customs would probably have me mortgage the house, frankly) but I do 
> recommend updating. It is too bad you don't have the setup to do it 
> yourself because on K2, these mods really are simple and can be done 
> on the kitchen table.
>
> Geert Jan
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW keying mistakes using bugs - semiautomatic keys

[Victor Rosenthal]

I rarely use it any more, because I'm lazy. The keyer is easier. Also, 
my bug fist isn't what it used to be. But I do want it to sound clean 
when I do.


73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
CWops #5
Formerly K2VCO
https://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 10/05/2021 3:02, Jim Brown wrote:

On 5/9/2021 12:14 PM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote:
I use a reed relay with a capacitor across the coil with my bug. The 
K3 is not the only modern radio that keys poorly with a bug.


A cousin who had used it in the Navy gave me his bug when I was a new 
ham, and when you and I were working on the Traffic Hounds Morning 
Watch. I quit it cold turkey for an early electronic keyer sometime in 
the '60s. I don't debate your advice, Vic.


73, Jim K9YC (ex-W8FNI)

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW keying mistakes using bugs - semiautomatic keys

[Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP]

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