Re: [Elecraft] KX2 battery options.

[Detrick Merz]

I've done both, for my KX3, using cells salvaged from old laptop batteries.

4 cells: at full charge, pack voltage is too high for the KX3. On the flip
side, nominal pack voltage will remain high enough for the radio to operate
at higher power until the pack is nearly dead. I've dealt with this two
ways:

1) only charge the pack up to ~15.5v. This keeps the peak voltage within
the acceptable range, but sacrifices some capacity. It may also increase
the longevity of your cells (i.e. allow more charge cycles). It may also
prevent any cell balancing from ever happening.

2) Charge the pack fully and use a buck  converter until pack voltage falls
off a bit. This will allow you to maximize the pack capacity but keep the
input voltage where the radio wants it. The downside is the possibility of
birdies (buck converters are switchers) and having to carry yet-another
thing. Some power is "wasted" by the buck converter, but it can be removed
from the equation pretty quickly (it doesn't take terribly long for the
pack voltage to drop to where the radio is happy).

3 cells: peak pack voltage is perfectly acceptable for the radio, but may
not allow operating at full power. Nominal pack voltage (11.1v) also won't
allow full power out. When the pack is near dead, output power may need to
be significantly reduced. I've dealt with the 3 cell pack by using a boost
converter. This allows for higher output power but sacrifices efficiency
(some power "wasted" by the boost converter), and may result in birdies
from the converter.

Since I already have both 3- and 4-cell packs, I use both of them. I ended
up picking up a boost-buck converter. It's pretty small (deck of cards),
and hasn't created any RFI that I've noticed yet -- even operating out in
the field where the noise floor is very low. It lets me use either pack on
the input side, and set the output voltage where I like. I can run the KX3
at 15W until the packs go dead. I've also used it with my Bioenno LiFePO4
pack if I needed a little more power to complete a contract.

-detrick
K4IZ


On Mon, Nov 19, 2018, 08:07 Mike Short  I have a bunch of 18650 batteries. Should I build a 3 or 4 cell case for
> it?
>
> Mike
> AI4NS
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Re: [Elecraft] VFO NR

[Detrick Merz]

Maybe you're pushing the wrong button. When I tried this myself, I first
tried to use the 'freq ent' button (because, after all, the radio tells you
'to unlock, hold freq for 3 sec' and that's the only 'freq' button I see).
But here's the trick: hold the RATE(KHZ) button. It should unlock. Don't
ask how I figured this out.

I forget what all (and expect someone else on the list will fill in), but
there were some updates made after those earlier serial numbers. I think
some of those updates can be applied to the older models, but not sure if
all can. I *am* curious to hear whether the VFO NR helps you or not, and
also curious to hear if your radio can be brought up to the current spec.

gl es 73,

-detrick
K4IZ

On Fri, Jul 6, 2018 at 6:07 PM, Sean Hayden  wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I have a new to me KX3 that produces VFO dial noise on a few bands.  I see
> there is a VFO NR option enabled in tech mode, but the setting is locked
> and pressing the freq ent button for 3 seconds doesn't do anything (other
> than beep twice).  The serial number of the unit is 968.  I have updated
> the firmware to the latest version.
>
> Thanks,
> Sean
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Re: [Elecraft] 2018 Field Day

[Detrick Merz]

W4OWL will be at Chantilly Farm Campground for the second year (and our 3rd
FD) running KX3s (and PX3s) on HF in the 2AB class. Last year we really
appreciated the KX3's ability to natively do PSK-31 as it let us operate
without having to figure out how to power "real" computers. We take the
class a step further than is strictly necessary by the rules: we avoid
generators entirely (no AC power outlets available at the campground).
*Everything* is on battery, which makes keeping laptops running a real
challenge. We use android tablets for logging, and low-power Raspberry Pi
Zero W as the central logging point.

Last year we added in satellite contacts, something none of us had ever
done before. It took until the last few minutes of the day on Sunday to
make a satellite contact, but there was so much excitement after making it
that the antenna and HT got passed around so everyone could give it a try
on the next few birds that passed.

This year I'm set on adding 6m and 2m. I'll definitely be pressing another
KX3 into service on both bands, but plan to have two other power hogs on
standby in case it feels like those extra 2 watts of RF on 2m might make a
difference.

-detrick
K4IZ

On Sat, Jun 9, 2018 at 12:49 PM, aj4tf  wrote:

> What are your Elecraft plans for Field Day?   I'll be on the air at W4UA
> (High Point, NC) with K3S # 10669 and K2 # 7006.  The other two stations
> will be some other "Y" gear...
>
> 73 de AJ4TF
>
>
>
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] Mac Clock Question

[Detrick Merz]

Unfortunately, with some recently releases of OSX, Apple decided to tweak
the NTP daemon to "save battery power." This results in the clock drifting
significantly from our perspective, but "not enough for the average user to
care about." It can definitely be enough for JT modes to care about. I
tracked my clock accuracy at one point on OSX 10.9 (I think), and as I
recall I saw it drift up to 20 seconds at some points in time.

I'm unsure if it's been improved in the most recent macOS releases, but the
idea of forcing a restart of NTP either daily, or whenever you fire up
WSJT-X, hasn't necessarily been as much of a faux pas as one might think.

-detrick
K4IZ

On Tue, Feb 20, 2018 at 12:49 PM, Dale Chayes 
wrote:

>
> > On Feb 20, 2018, at 12:06 , Walter Underwood 
> wrote:
> >
> > Should not need to unlock and relock daily. In fact, that could hurt
> time synchronization.
>
> Indeed, restarting runs the risk of loosing  (over-writing) the
> calibration (local clock drift rate) that NTP uses to keep the local clock
> accurate.
>
> From my experience, I would put the idea of “restart every day” in the
> same category as old guidance about primitive operating systems that some
> folks used to recommend re-booting every day in order to prevent crashes.
>
> > Mac OS runs NTP, which continually adjusts the time.
>
>  I _think_ every modern OS uses an NTP implementation or at least has one
> available.
>
> Some light:
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Network_Time_Protocol <
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Network_Time_Protocol>
> and not so light:
> http://www.ntp.org/ 
> https://www.eecis.udel.edu/~mills/papers.html <
> https://www.eecis.udel.edu/~mills/papers.html>
> reading for those who don’t know about NTP.
>
>
> I’d be interested to hear about ones that:
> a) don’t have an NTP implementation available and/or
> b) have one that does not work reliably
>
> One issue I’d keep an eye on is whether your OS (and it’s NTP daemon) will
> tell you if it’s having trouble syncing.
>
> With a good NTP implementation, you could go months (or years) with no
> significant time of day error and then loose your time sync and slowly
> drift off to the point that it matters for your application.
>
> You can also run into this problem if you are off the ‘net and the NTP
> daemon can’t get to the NTP source often enough.
>
> -Dale
>
> >
> > wunder
> > K6WRU
> > Walter Underwood
> > CM87wj
> > http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
> >
> >> On Feb 20, 2018, at 8:55 AM, John Stengrevics 
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Richard,
> >>
> >> I run a Mac here.  Go to System Preferences, Unlock, enter “
> us.pool.ntp.org ”, Lock and you will be good to
> go.
> >>
> >> You should Unlock, delete, and renter the above daily to make sure you
> are synched - takes 30 seconds.
> >>
> >> John
> >> WA1EAZ
> >>
> >>> On Feb 20, 2018, at 11:49 AM, Richard  wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Before I get into the list of problems I’m having using WSJT-X FT8 on
> my K3S, I’d like to know:
> >>>
> >>> 1. Is the automatic clock setting in my Mac mini (running Sierra,
> 10.12) good enough for modes like JT65 and FT8?
> >>>
> >>> 2. If not, what’s a good reliable time sync app I can download and use?
> >>>
> >>> Cheers!
> >>>
> >>> Richard Kunc — W4KBX
> >>>
> >>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] FT8 on PX3? Logging FT8 contacts on a Mac?

[Detrick Merz]

Anyone found a way to log FT8 contacts on the Mac version of WSJT-X?


What on the mac are you trying to log to? The native WSJT-X log file, or an
external logging program?

WSJT-X prompts me to log to the WSJT-X log files after every QSO for FT8,
just like it does for JT65 & JT9. I haven't messed with trying to also
automatically get those log entries into a "real" logging program, but JT
Bridge should be able to do such a thing.

-detrick
K4IZ
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[Elecraft] OT: Bioennopower LiFePO4 teardown?

[Detrick Merz]

Has anyone disassembled a Bioennopower LiFePO4 pack yet? I recently asked
them if it was possible to charge via the power pole connector instead of
the normal charge port, and they said, "Yes, that's fine."

This left me curious: why the second port for charging? How are the cables
connected inside?

-detrick
KI4STU
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[Elecraft] KX3 alc/cmp and swr/rf display

[Detrick Merz]

Got two KX3 radios sitting here. Both in USB mode. On one, pressing the
keyer/mic button switches the display between swr/rf and cmp/alc. On the
other radio pressing keyer/mic it switches between showing mic gain and wpm
in vfo b, but always shows cmp/alc.

What are we missing?

73,

-detrick
KI4STU
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 - 2 band, is possible to add another 2 band PCB ?

[Detrick Merz]

All 4 bands cannot be installed at the same time. If you buy the second 2
band module for 20/40 you will have to remove the 80/15 module to install
the 20/40. You will also need to reprogram B1 to 14 and B2 to 7. Every time
you remove one band module and install another you should go through the
menu to change B1 and B2 to match the installed module.

73,

-detrick
KI4STU

On Wed, May 24, 2017 at 10:08 AM, roney  wrote:

> Hello, now that my Rig is ready, I want to ask something that wasn't clear
> when I bought it.
>
> In Elecraft website, there is a "*KFL1-2
>  Additional 2 Band
> Module*";
> I did not buy it, because I still don't know if it works.
>
> I already have B1 as 3.500 mhz
> I already have B2 as 21.000 mhz
>
> If I buy and add the second 2 band module, can I have all together 4 bands
> in my Rig ?
> (Like adding B3 as 14.000 mhz, and B4 as 7.000 mhz)
>
> Thanks
> Roney PY1ZB
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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking feedback on Windcamp KX3 heatsink

[Detrick Merz]

This was the hint I needed. The kit did come with a little plastic tool. I
had presumed that tool was spreading out the heatsink compound they also
provided (which the tool does work quite well for). A little bit of hair
dryer plus the tool they included and the KX3HSMDKT came off rather
painlessly. Sometimes I ponder writing up a small bit of documentation and
providing it back to these companies so they can provide it to the next
guy. Still quite pleased with the add-on.

Thanks!

-detrick
KI4STU

On Mon, May 8, 2017 at 10:04 AM, GRANT YOUNGMAN 
wrote:

> I put a ProAudioEngineering heatsink on my KX3.  Can’t comment on the
> Windcamp stuff.
>
> The Elecraft enhanced heatsink comes off relatively easily if you use some
> heat.  PAE recommends a hair dryer.  I used my heat gun from a large enough
> distance not to overheat the powder coat finish on the KX3.  Just warm it
> up slowly and the adhesive will soften.  It will still require some manual
> labor — I used one of my plastic iPhone pry tools to work it off and
> prevent case damage.
>
> > Before I go trying to remove the KX3HSMDKT, can I get some opinions on
> the
> > Windcamp heatsink? Am I an idiot for thinking about swapping out for the
> > Windcamp? Is there some trick to easily removing the KX3HSMDKT?
> >
>
> Grant NQ5T
> K3 #2091, KX3 #8342
>
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] Seeking feedback on Windcamp KX3 heatsink

[Detrick Merz]

Have a Windcamp kit: side panels, clear covers, canvas bag, and heatsink.
I'm very pleased with the side panels, covers, and bag. I'm waffling on
installing the heatsink. It looks very nice, I was very excited to be
getting it and I'd like to install it, but the KX3HSMDKT Enhanced Heat Sink
is really stuck on good. If the KX3HSMDKT wasn't adhered so well I wouldn't
hesitate about making the change.

Before I go trying to remove the KX3HSMDKT, can I get some opinions on the
Windcamp heatsink? Am I an idiot for thinking about swapping out for the
Windcamp? Is there some trick to easily removing the KX3HSMDKT?

73,

-detrick
KI4STU
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[Elecraft] OT - operating QRP at same park

[Detrick Merz]

I was there with K4VD for this. Same thing happened last year at Field Day
too, although the antenna arrangement was different for FD.

Actually, it was a K1 that was hearing the KX3. We stopped using the 817
when we switched to CW at my station. It wasn't a pure tone I was hearing,
more of a "whoosh," and pretty faint. Not enough to interrupt anything I
was trying to copy. Sometimes I could copy the whooshes, sometimes they
were just noise.

Also, as I recollect, I could only hear the KX3 through the K1 when you
were using the KXPD3. When using your external paddles I couldn't hear
anything.

-detrick
KI4STU

-- Forwarded message --

From: Kevin - K4VD 
To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2017 14:58:23 -0400
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT - operating QRP at same park
I understand we are speaking about the KX2 here but I'm curious... would
roofing filters have helped in this situation?

In a recent WWFF outing we had a KX3 and an FT-817 set up. We separated the
antennas best we could but really didn't pay a lot of attention to it. I
believe the KX3 was on 40 and the 817 on 20 meters. The KX3 never heard the
817 but the 817 (no roofing filters I think) washed out when the KX3 was
keyed.

The radios were about 30 feet apart and the antennas maybe 40-50 feet apart.

If the KX3's success was due to the roofing filters installed, could some
sort of external filter added to the KX2 contribute to a solution? Is the
KX3 meant to play well with others while the KX2 is intended more for a
solo trip? I understand W4RT has optional roofing filters for the FT-817. I
wonder if he or someone might come out with a good option for the KX2.

Then again... am I way off base here?

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Detrick Merz]

I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power
cords), but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors
to stay stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid
for some people, and so unreliable for others.

For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've soldered a
few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue, or anything other
than the natural friction to hold the black/red housings in a pair, or
anything other than friction to keep them plugged in. I plug them in
end-to-end as well as into a homebrew PP distribution block. Sometimes
they're near impossible to get out of the distribution block!

-detrick
KI4STU

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 9:20 AM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:

> Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?
>
> Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power cable
> and have never been an issue.
>
> 73
>
> Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] NPOTA NP51 Activation (KX3 and K1)

[Detrick Merz]

Results are in!

Test #1: dummy load connected directly to the antenna analyzer
Result: 1:1 SWR

Test #2: dummy to PL259 barrel to coax to antenna analyzer
Result: 1:1 SWR

The coax ain't bad.

The "odd ball thingy" is an 84' "random wire" with a 17' counterpoise. The
use of coax was an attempt to separate our antennas a bit more than we had
done during FD, since we had experienced a bit of interference from each
other. No interference for the NPOTA activation so maybe the separation
helped something.

I think I (still) like that K1 almost as much as Kev likes his KX3.

-detrick
KI4STU

On Wed, Jul 20, 2016 at 11:52 AM, Kevin - K4VD  wrote:

> Detrick (KI4STU) with his K1 and I with the KX3 took off work on Monday and
> headed up to Dickey Ridge on Skyline Drive in the Shenandoah National Park
> (NP51). We were both on battery power. CW was the mode of choice. The
> antennas were end-fed - Detrick's some odd-ball thingy and mine an LNR
> EF-40/20 (no counterpoise). Basically the same setup we used on FD but
> trimmed down significantly for mobility and quick setup.
>
> We were able to activate NP51 with 12 CW QSOs in about 2 hours.
>
> There were some tricky parts.
>
> The end-fed thingy Detrick had would not tune until we swapped out the
> coax. The guess is either the original coax is bad or the length of the
> coax was contributing to the high SWR. Waiting to find out the results.
> Detrick normally runs the antenna directly to binding posts.
>
> Checking the weather in the morning it all looked clear. Then came the
> dangerous wind and hail alerts and it was all we could do to get everything
> back to the cars before the downpour. Weather changes quick!
>
> I uploaded the QSLs to LoTW and hope I did it right, creating a new
> location for the park. eQSL is all kinds of messed up but I'm losing my
> patience with that service anyway. I'm not sure if I should expect
> something back from the ARRL concerning the activation or just assume all
> went well.
>
> GNATS, GNATS and damn GNATS!
>
> Then we went to Spelunkers for some Cavern Burgers and all was good in the
> world again.
>
> I'm absolutely enjoying the KX3. My go-bag is a little Nikon camera bag
> containing the KX3 with side panels and cover, Begali Adventure paddles,
> mic (unused), EF-40/20 antenna, Sony in-ear phones, spool of mason line,
> short coax, mini-log and notepad, pen, pencil, 15Ah LiFePO4 (not used for
> this trip). There's also copy of my license in a pouch. It is freedom in a
> bag.
>
> Next trip... bug spray.
>
> To top off the good news, our new little crew - Barred Owl Radio Club
> (BORC) was just issued W4OWL. We named our group for the fledgling begging
> call that kept us away all night on FD (yep, we slept). You can find that
> wonderful sound of nature right here:
> https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Barred_Owl/sounds. Scroll on down to
> the bottom for pure listening e​​njoyment. If you don't get the impression
> of a spike being driven into your ears you don't have the volume high
> enough.
>
> 73,
> Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Bose noise canceling headphones

[Detrick Merz]

>  Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 12:49:30 -0700
>  From: "dw" 
>  Subject: [Elecraft] Bose noise canceling headphones
>  To: "Elecraft_List" 
>
>  Ah!
>  I've always wondered how well Bose noise cancelling phones worked.
>  Do they really cancel noise external to the head-set?
>  I understand the concept...mic the external noise and mix it back into
>  the earphones 180 out of phase.
>  Just never got a chance to see how effective.
>
>  There are times when I have trouble with noises in the house, and I
>  would love it if the head-phones could totally cancel all that out.
>  But not sure how far advertised is from reality  :)
>
>  >I have a pair of Delta Airlines earbuds that
>  >basically don't work at all, but my Bose Quietcomfort noise cancelling
>  >phones SCREAM when connected to the rig. It's a pretty low signal coming out
>  >of the jack, but with the right phones, it sounds wonderful.
>  --
>   bw...@fastmail.net

I have a pair of Skullcandy Proletariat NC headphones.  I'm quite
happy with them, and they're priced a fair amount under the Bose.
Amazon reviewers generally rated them inline with the Bose QC's.
Rather than retyping it all, you can see my review:



-detrick
KI4STU
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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 52, Issue 6

[Detrick Merz]

> Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 17:52:30 +0100
> From: Dave G4AON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K1: Advice on Options
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> Dave
>
> 1. I find my K1 a bit coarse on tuning even when set to the 75 KHz
> tuning range.

I have mine doing ~160KHz, and I like it just fine.  I keep thinking
about trying to stretch it up towards 200.  Muscles might take a bit
of learning to get used to fine tuning, but it's not difficult for me
at least.  Here's a thought, put a 3 pin SIP header (with center pin
removed) in where the C2 goes, jack capacitors into the SIP header,
and try both.  Maybe pull a few other caps of other values out of the
junk box and try them to see if you like their spread best.  Maybe
you'll like 90KHZ, or 100, or 60, or 200!!  Who knows till you try.
It's your rig, you get to decide.

>
> 3. C: I personally don't think the battery holder option is worthwhile,
> using 8 NiMh cells (internal battery holder limit) would restrict the
> power output to about 3 Watts, although 1.5 Volt cells would be OK as
> they give 12 Volts. I've heard of issues with freshly charged warm/hot
> batteries causing the K1 to drift when first fitted, it may or may not
> be an issue. I use an external pack of 10 x NiMh cells in a small
> plastic project box, this is another box to carry but does allow for
> full output from the K1.

I would agree, but I have an alternative.  I should preface this by
saying I do not have my internal speaker installed as I always use
headphones.  This affords me some extra space inside the case.  When I
was going on a business trip a few years ago, I decided at the last
minute I wanted to take the K1 with.  I went by a Radio Shack
(amazingly enough) and picked up some AA battery holders... 1 8 cell
and one 2 cell.  The 8 cell didn't have wire leads coming off of it,
instead it had a 9V style connection.  Seeing that, I decided I'd pick
up a pack of 9V connectors while I was there.  This made it pretty
easy to patch the AA holders together, and I could decide if I wanted
to use 8 cells or 10.  As a bonus, since I didn't have the speaker
installed, I could fit the 8 cell holder and the 2 cell holder inside
the K1 while packed in my luggage.  Pack a small screwdriver, pop the
lid when you arrive, snap batteries together, and go!

-detrick
KI4STU

> 73 Dave, G4AON
> K1, K2 and K3/100 (no KX1...)
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 as my first HF rig??

[Detrick Merz]

> Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 14:33:25 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Jeremy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 as my first HF rig??
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> Hi all-

Hi!


> Is building a K1 and not being able to use SSB a disadvantage for a new ham - 
> thoughts?  Is only having 5 watts going to be overly frustrating (for being 
> able to make contacts)?  I do know that a good antenna is pretty important - 
> I was going to do an end-fed or center-fed dipole.

I got a K1 as my first ever rig about a year and a half ago.  Maybe
it's because I'm ignorant about what I'm "missing," but I feel
completely fulfilled by it.  Being new to CW *and* HAM radio, I found
QRP somewhat comforting too.  Feeling that my signal "couldn't make it
very far," I had a little tiny bit less apprehension about making
those first contacts.  If I messed up, at least *everyone* couldn't
hear me.  Turns out at the end of the day, the thing puts out enough
signal that rag chews with ops 1000 miles away are common.  It's quite
satisfying to get those 599 or 589 reports back, then then "OMG you've
got a K1, that thing sounds FANTASTIC I can't believe how strong you
sound for only 5W!"  Suddenly you know that the RST was in earnest.
I'm not a contester, only the occasional chatter, but it satisfies my
desires very well.

CW signal is a lot easier to pick out of the mud than SSB (so I hear),
and CW ops tend to be willing to dig their ears deeper into the mud
(so I hear), so I can't imagine 5W CW to be nearly as much of a
"disadvantage" as 5W SSB.  CW ops tend to be very friendly (or perhaps
you can't tell quite as well as you miss some of the inflection that
voice gets you), and plenty willing to slow down/repeat while you're
learning code.

Oh, and you can pack it in your suitcase with a spool of wire and some
AA's when you go on vacation too.

Oh, and you can run it off an old "bad" motorcycle or car battery for
AGES between charges (or charge it with a solar panel, or hand crank
generator, or bicycle generator, or...).

Oh, and it's relatively cheap, given the cost of so many rigs these days.

If you get it, consider a CW club/group to join.  Some are even free.
They've all got CW elmer programs, and you should be able to get
someone on a schedule with you to practice your code, if you'd like.

-detrick
KI4STU


>
> thanks,
> Jeremy
> KC2TIX
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Re: [Elecraft] K1

[Detrick Merz]

> Message: 17
> Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 14:19:34 -0500
> From: "Cory Golob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] K1
> To: 
>
> I acquired a K1 last week. The rig drifts terribly. I had it set to 7050.5 
> and answered a CQ, by the time I sent DE N1URA K the rig was already on 
> 7050.3 . I left the rig sitting for a while and when I came back to it, the 
> display read E42. Any ideas on how to correct this??
>
> Thank you
> -Cory

If you got the rig without a manual, they can be downloaded from
Elecraft's website.  It's an invaluable tool to have.  Lots of
troubleshooting guide included, to help you decide what errors like
E42 mean.  Nice schematics too.
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[Elecraft] Project Knobs

[Detrick Merz]

Andy,

I had luck making a plastic knob from scratch a while back.  I needed
a knob for a little Dremel jig I built for creating Manhattan style
PCB pads.  I think my knob was about 2" in diamater.

Basic supplies:
- Polyester plastic casting resin
- Hardener (for resin)
- Mold

The casting resin and hardener can be had at local crafts stores
around here.  I presume it wouldn't be hard to find across the pond
either.  For molds, I have had good luck with Polyethylene (HDPE /
LDPE) and Polypropylene (PP), without using a mold release agent.
That being said, I also cut the mold off, so they end up being one
time use for me.  Mold release (available according to the resin
manufacturer), or a better shaped mold (nice draft angles) might let
you reuse molds.

For my knob, I used an empty plastic single serving fruit cup.  I
wanted a threaded rod coming out of the back of it, so after pouring
the resin in the mold, I gently set a bolt into the puddle of liquid
plastic.  24 hours later, and the bolt is a permanent part of the
knob.  It's not exactly perpendicular to the knob face, but only a few
degrees off, and unimportant for what I needed.  A little work and you
could find a way to embed one and make it square.

Once my knob was done, I faced the back a little bit by chucking the
bolt end into my little drill press.  A little work holding a file
against the back edge, and I shaped it to my liking (flattened it out
a bit, and smoothed over the "corner").

Link to the casting resin manufacturer's site (surely there are
others, but this is the brand I used):
 scroll down a little bit

Picture of the style of fruit cups I used for a mold:


If you go this route, and have more questions, feel free to send me
some mail directly.  I skim this list in digest, so I might miss a
reply sent there.

-detrick
KI4STU

On 7/31/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 04:42:32 +0100
> From: "Andy - GM0NWI" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] Project Knobs
> To: "'Elecraft Discussion List'" ,"'Flying
> Pigs'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Hello to everyone in the group from "Bonnie Scotland"..
>
> I am currently tryin' to source some 2 inch - 2 1/4 inch diameter knobs for
> a project that will be gettin' undertaken in
> The near future..
>
> I am in need of 3 sets of 3 (9 knobs in total) "I think".. although this may
> not be case as I progress
> But better I think to "plan ahead"..
>
> Can anyone on the list give any details of a supplier, ..or possibly some
> ideas from a what type of older
> Radio's in the past might have had this sort of diameter of knobs
> included..?
>
> Think "VFO -Tuning Dial" sort of diameter.. and you'de near a ball-part
> figure/size..
>
> Has anyone in the past home-brewed this size and diameter of knob for a past
> project..?  If so, care to share how you
> Did it..?
>
> I've looked around the internet are lots of places, and there just does'nt
> seem to be anyone out there who stocks
> This sort of thing, both here in the UK and the US and further afield..
>
> Really would appreciate help or ideas on this one folks..
>
> TIA..
>
> 72's 73's[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Andy
> GM0NWI
>
> Elecraft K2 "Fully Loaded" QRP S/n 01432
> Elecraft K2 "Fully Loaded" QRO S/n 05469
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[Elecraft] RIT and XIT

[Detrick Merz]

So, with XIT on, as I twiddle the RIT/XIT knob, the displayed
frequency does not get updated?  So after altering using XIT, I have
to switch back momentarily to the RIT display to see my xmit
frequency?  Can someone confirm I'm reading this right... here, all
along, I thought I had broken something since the display didn't
update when I twiddled XIT!
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[Elecraft] Re: K1-2 No TX on one band

[Detrick Merz]

Well, I think I have this one sorted out.  Here's how it boiled down
for me, in case anyone else gets anything similar:

1) Reflowed *every* solder joint on the filter board.  Added a bit of
solder to the ones that looked like they could handle a little more

2) Reinstalled the filterboard and experienced *no* change (still
9.9:1swr, no appreciable power out).

3) Tuned around to find some kind of signal.

4) Repeaked the filters (they did take a bit of adjusting, and signals
got stronger)

5) Asked the KAT1 to tune.. it found 1.6:1 this time.  Tested
transmitting, and while no one responded, the rig was showing 4 watts
out.

So, I guess the filters were far enough out of whack to be blocking
the signals I wanted.  Adjusting them again seemed to do the trick!
Thanks to everyone who replied with suggestions (and, the "shadow" one
person saw turned out to just be a bit of solder resin).  Now, if I
can just find something decent on 15M :)

-detrick
KI4STU

On 5/28/07, Detrick Merz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Folks,

I built my K1 around the end of last year (my favourite xmas
present!).  Originally I had a 2 band module with 80/15 on it.  A few
months later, I bought a second 2 bander, with 40/30.  The 40/30 works
fine on both bands, but I can't get 15 to play nice on the 80/15
module!


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[Elecraft] K1-2 No TX on one band

[Detrick Merz]

Folks,

I built my K1 around the end of last year (my favourite xmas
present!).  Originally I had a 2 band module with 80/15 on it.  A few
months later, I bought a second 2 bander, with 40/30.  The 40/30 works
fine on both bands, but I can't get 15 to play nice on the 80/15
module!

Originally, I thought my troubles were due to a poorly matched
antenna.  The KAT1 just wouldn't get anything better than 9.9 on 15M.
I was okay with this, figuring it was just my bad luck in having a
poor length of wire up (80 matched beautifully, as did 30.. but both
40 and 15 were no good).  This weekend, I put up a G5RV, about 80-90'
up in some trees.  Of course, I had to try the new antenna, and see
how the thing worked... at least if I could match up on more bands
now.  80, 40 and 30 matched up just fine.  15 still shows  9.9 when
the KAT1 tries to work it's magic.  Now, I'm still new to all of this
HAM stuff, but, the G5RV is supposed to match up on 15, right?  I
mean, at least better than 9.9:1!

So, I've begun to suspect that there's something buggy in the 15M
section of this filter board.  I did peak the filters, although even
if they were *very* far off, I would still expect *something* better
than  9.9:1 (but maybe this is my ignorance).  I figure it being on
the filter board, and not on the RF board because:

1) 80M (band 1, board 1) works fine
2) 30M and 40M (band 1 & band 2, board 2) both work fine (this kind
rules out the RF board, I think, since the RF board is talking to both
bands on the second filter board just fine).

So, thinking there might be trouble in band-2 land on this 80/15
filter board, I've gone and done the investigating that I know how to
do.  I've turned up nothing, so I come to the rest of you for some
help.  Here's what I've done:

Pulled the filter board for examination.  Solder joints look okay
(take a peek yourself: ) to me
(no bridges, good contact everywhere).  Beyond the basic resistance
checks in the build manual, I switched to band 2, then powered down
the rig.  I then verified 0, or infinite resistance between the
following points:

K1, pin 8-9, infinite
K1, pin 8-7, 0.3ohm
K1, pin 3-2, infinite
K1, pin 3-4, 0.3ohm
(relay seems to be latched in the right direction)

K2, pin 8-9, infinite
K2, pin 8-7, 0.3ohm
K2, pin 3-2, infinite
K2, pin 3-4, 0.3ohm
(relay seems to be latched in the right direction)

K3, pin 8-9, infinite
K3, pin 8-7, 0.3ohm
K3, pin 2-3, infinite
K3, pin 2-4, 0.3ohm
(relay seems to be latched in the right direction)

L7, L8, L3, L4, pins 1-3, 0.4ohm

L9, L10, L11, L12, 0.3ohm
(toroids stripped well enough to make good contact, counted turns
also, and L11, L12 both have 12 turns)

Having failed to find anything exciting in the visual and DMM checks,
I fired up the oscilloscope.  Mind you, I don't claim to be any kind
of expert at using a scope.. I can poke the probe at places I think
there should be a signal, and make a nice wide band show up on the
screen.  I can fiddle with a knob (time division) and make that band
blur, or slow to a crawl as it scans across the screen (I usually let
it blur).  I can fiddle with another knob (amplitude division) to make
things taller or shorter on the display.  Anyway, that's about the
extent of my scope knowledge (other than hooking a probe up to "CAL"
and adjusting things back into alignment).  So, with my limited
scope-using abilities, here's what I find:

With the K1 powered up:

Band 1 selected, probe to filter-board P1, pin 4: nice wide signal (6
divisions worth) seen on the scope
Band 2 selected, probe to filter-board P1, pin 4: signal on the scope
is very narrow (1 division total)

Pulling the bottom cover off the K1 to probe a few more points, I find
that when band 1 is selected, I see nice wide signals at all the
exciting points (ANT, PA, DRV, MIX, PRE, OSC).  When I select band 2,
everything pretty much stays the same, except for ANT and PA... both
of them now barely show up on the scope... if band1 was 8 divisions
high on the scope (4 up, 4 down from center) at .5V/div, band 2 is
about 1 division (1/2div up and 1/2 down) at 2mV/div (or completely
unseen at .5V/div).  So, if I'm understanding correctly, that
basically is just confirming that almost no signal is heading out of
this thing on 15M.  But why?!

Any thoughts?

-detrick
KI4STU
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