Re: [Elecraft] Re: K2 logging program

2005-09-07 Thread Donald Nesbitt
You might want to take a look at XMLog (www.xmlog.com).  It's free, simple,
feature friendly with "clickable" band maps for instant qsy, call sign
lookup, voice announcements, etc. and is well maintained by Mike.  As usual,
YMMV 73 -- Don N4HH  K2/100 #2028, KAT100, K1 #1456, etc, etc.

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 6:42 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K2 logging program


> I'm looking for a 'no frills' general purpose logging program - just for
> casual operation (already using either CT or TRLog for contesting).
> Guidance would be much appreciated.
> 73, Ken ZL1AIH
> PS   Two K2s and Win98 in the shack
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Re: [Elecraft] rig control

2005-08-30 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hi Randy - no solution here but just a couple of thoughts of things to
check/try - I'm using both HRD and N1MM quite nicely with my K2.

Did the KIO2 ever work?

Is the "special" KIO2 cable properly constructed?

Check that the port is actually on in the K2 menu

Check that the KIO2 is actually working by using the terminal program as
described in the manual - possible that the little bitty choke in the KIO2
is blown??

Check the settings of your COM port using the windows (I'm assuming you are
using windows here) device manager to see that you actually are using an
active and available COM port (for instance, on one computer I use a USB to
serial converter and windows places that resulting port at COM4)

I've found that setting N1MM to 1 stop bit works as well or better than the
2 stop bits that seem to be the default.

Unless there is something very exotic about your setup, there is a solution
to this vexing problem!

73 es gud dxing -- Don N4HH, K2/100 #2028, KAT100, K1 # 1456, etc, etc!




- Original Message - 
From: "Randy Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2005 4:28 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] rig control


I have been able to connect my IC-756PROII to the Ham Radio Deluxe rig
control software but when I hook up the K2 cable it will not connect.

I use the N3FJP logging and contest programs and none of them are able to
poll the rig either. Nor could I connect with N1MM.

Ideas?

Randy W6SJ  K24878

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[Elecraft] N4HH FD

2005-06-28 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Participated a couple of hours in a 9A operation at N4N (amazingly
organized) and then had a little "personal" FD of my own with a recently
acquired K1 thanks to John (WL7M) - was KL0WN - yes, he worked as a clown
with RB & BB Circus -  and is a very accomplished builder!  Excellent job
John - tnx for making it available!

N4HH 1B on 20 meter cw only.  K1 running 5 watts off a gel cel to a 20 meter
dipole at a staggering and sagging 15 feet.84 Q's in abt 4 hrs including
F5IN and a couple of 4X4's prior to the contest!

I used the FD Logger 2005 by KC8OPV (http://www.qsl.net/kc8opv).  James'
program is very simple and excellent. You might want to take a look at it
for next year.  73 es gud dxing -- Don N4HH K2/100/KAT100 #2028, K1 #1456,
etc, etc



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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day Dupe and and logger pgm

2005-06-26 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Thanks for the tip Tom - what a sweet little program! Works perfectly and
the visual and audible warnings on duplicate contacts are great!  Very nice
map and history.  Definitely a winner!  73 es have fun  -- Don N4HH

- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Bosscher" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 8:28 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Field Day Dupe and and logger pgm


> This may be a last hour notice, but there is a free and very easy to
> use logging dupe program designed just for field day. Yep, I said free.
> It will be in use for field day for the third or fourth year for the
> Holland Amateur Radio Club, K8DAA. And yes, there will be one or two
> K2's there.
>
> The program can be found at :
>
> http://www.qsl.net/kc8opv/squirl-fd/
>
> One minor point, when you open and install it, look at the .ini file
> and modify the line for the logs for your computer. It will default to
> the designers slot. Change it to what you want.
>
> Very simple, just for field day, and free.
>
> A free field day logging and dupe program and a pair of K2's is what
> life is all about.
>
> Tom Bosscher  K8TB
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Touch up Paint Recommendations

2005-06-16 Thread Donald Nesbitt
K1 and K2 touch-up paint is available directly from Elecraft.  Check the
"Spare Parts, Firmware and Mod Kits" page.  73 -- Don N4HH
- Original Message - 
From: "Robert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2005 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Touch up Paint Recommendations


> Hi Chuck;
>
> Get pewter color.  That is the closest I've found and I have painted a
> cabinet with it and it looks very close.
> To get a look at the cabinet I painted, have a look in the Elecraft
pictures
> archive or try the link at the end of this email and you'll see the power
> supply/speaker cabinet I painted for my K1.
>
> http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/NewPics2/VE3RPF_K1and%20PS.jpg
>
> Robert VE3RPF
>
>   Can any one recommend a type and color of spray paint the matches the
> color and shade of Elecraft Gray?
> >
> > 73 KI4DGH
> > Chuck G.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2/KPA100 Serial Comm Problems

2005-06-13 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hi Tom - just a quick note to let you know that I use an old IBM 380ED (not
sure what the difference is between it and the 380D) with the K2 and
thankfully have not experienced the "flaky" communication problem that you
are having.  I also use it with the Yaesu Mark V and again no problems.

Just FYI - I'm using  XMLog as well as N1MM Logger and both communicate well
in both directions using the 380ED as well as with a 2.4 gig P4 laptop that
gets moved around.

A shot in the dark, but on occasion, I have noted problems reported by
others on other reflectors related to some specific piece of software and
the "polling" speed and the timing issues involved when used with various
radios.  Also note are problems with the settings of serial port in terms of
speed, parity, etc. Maybe this is an issue with the software and not your
faithful 380!  73 -- Don N4HH

- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Hammond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 9:10 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] KIO2/KPA100 Serial Comm Problems


> Hi Folks:
>
> For quite a while I've blamed my KIO2 _and_ my KPA100 (s/n 0008) for some
> serial communications problems I've been experiencing... I can SEND data
to
> the PC with no problem, BUT I cannot RECEIVE data FROM the PC...
>
> Today, while getting a local's K2/100 (s/n 4224) ready for Field Dat (and
> PC logging) I think I've determined that the problem may not be my K2, but
> the PC!
>
> The PC I've been using as an IBM ThinkPad 380D Laptop which USED TO
> communicate very reliably with the K2... however, since about a year ago,
> communications have been 'flakey' at best... sometimes on, sometimes
off...
> with no rhyme or reason (that I've been able to determine) to the
failures.
>
> I've now tried this laptop with two K2/100's and two different serial
> cables of my manufacture and verified to be properly wired (in case
someone
> wants to ask). Serial comms work fine if the K2 is sending data, but fails
> if the PC is sending it back to the K2.
>
> I'm beginning to thing that maybe (and I've not yet scoped it to confirm)
> that the signalling voltage on the RXD (K2 side) line may be marginal and
> that the serial adapters in the KPA100s just can't quite decode the
voltage
> changes. Guess I'll hang a scope on it later today and see what's going on
> there.
>
> Last time I did this, I HAD data going into the MAX1406 (pin 6, R3IN/RXD),
> but nothing coming out on R3OUT/K2 RX, which tends to imply that the
> MAX1406 wasn't (or couldn't) decode the incoming data for one reason or
the
> other. I swapped out the MAX1406 and there was no change, BUT then,
> sometime a bit later, all of a sudden serial comms picked back up and all
> was well... and no, I'd not changed anything. At that point I blamed
myself
> for a poorly soldered connection somewhere in the serial comms section,
BUT
> since the problem also shows on a completely different K2, I now absolve
> myself of that onus.
>
> Has anyone else experienced a serial comms problem with their Laptop PC? I
> know some Laptops tend to use RS232 voltages quite a bit less than those
> used on desktop PCs, voltages which might cause problems under certain
> circumstances.
>
> Suggestions are ALWAYS most welcome.
>
> 73,
>
> Tom Hammond   N0SS
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Wanted for Immediate Purchase

2005-06-06 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Thanks to all who responded.  A local club member has offered the loan of
his K2 to be used (with my "extra" modules) for our Field Day so I'm off the
"Purchase" list.  73 see you on Field Day.  -- Don N4HH

- Original Message ----- 
From: "Donald Nesbitt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft" 
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 1:51 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Wanted for Immediate Purchase


> Looking for a fairly bare bones K2 (could include 160 meter option and
> blanker but nothing more - I've got all the rest) with serial number above
> 4060 (Revision F dated January 29, 2004 using the new Revision B PCB).
 



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[Elecraft] K2 Wanted for Immediate Purchase

2005-06-04 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Looking for a fairly bare bones K2 (could include 160 meter option and
blanker but nothing more - I've got all the rest) with serial number above
4060 (Revision F dated January 29, 2004 using the new Revision B PCB).
First choice is for one that is immaculate, nicely built with good
soldering, fully functioning and includes all documentation.  Failing that
at a decent price, I will consider a partially built kit that has all it's
parts, documents, etc.  Please respond off list with all particulars (hey,
that includes price and your telephone number).  I need this transaction
completed a week before Field Day.  Tnx es 73 -- Don N4HH K2/100 #2028,
KAT100, etc. etc.  Telephone 404-218-3595 Cellular (best way to get me
quickly).



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - NOISY POLLING

2005-02-17 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hello Chris - I am using my K2/100 with N1MM and do not notice the noise
that you are referring to.  I use the K2/100 with two laptops - one an old
P1 266mhz with only 80 meg ram (yes, it works fine with N1MM as long as you
don't have anything else running!). This old computer has a "real" RS-232
port.  The reason I mention that is that my other laptop is a 2.6 gig with
512 meg ram, etc but NO serial port.  I have to use a USB to serial
converter cable with it.  When I use that computer, I can hear the converter
creating a slow pulsing broad rf spectrum that is receivable on all the rest
of the rigs in the shack.  This is true whether the K2/100 is connected to
that computer or not.  Now the interesting part is that when the K2/100 is
connected to the converter, I cannot hear the noise in the K2 - only in the
other rigs.  BTW - the usb to serial converter works very nicely with N1MM.
You might want to check to see if you have any ground loop between the K2
and the computer.  I think the cable should be grounded at only one end to
kill the ground loop.  73 es gud dx --don n4hh K2/100 #2028 KAT100, etc.
etc.
- Original Message - 
From: "Chris Page" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 8:36 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 - NOISY POLLING


> Does anyone else have a problem with noisy polling with their K2 when
> used with a computer logging program, and is there a cure for it?
>
> I have two K2/100s which both have the 160m, NB and DSP options and
> one has the SSB option.  I am using N1MM Logger with an old desk-top
> (about 300MHz) computer under Windows 98 and when I listen to the SSB
> K2 on any band with the AF gain at minimum, I can hear a soft pulse
> every second or so.  This does not increase as the AF Gain is
> advanced and normally the sound of signals, etc masks it, but it is
> slightly annoying when tuning on a very quiet band.
>
> I can just about hear it on my other K2 if I really listen hard for
> it but I don't think I would have noticed it on this K2 had I not
> first heard it on the SSB K2.  The problem must therefore be
> something to do with the SSB K2.
>
> Gary Surrency suggested moving the ribbon cable between the K2 and
> K2/100 further away from the KSB2 unit and also try switching off the
> RTC (in the secondary menu).  I have tried both and neither make any
difference and Gary suggested I now ask on here.
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> 73 de Chris, W4/G4BUE
>
>
> arse just installed the repaired K2 and my own K2 in a SO2R set-up
> > with N1MM Logger for contesting and have noticed that the polling
> (at
> > least I think that's what it is) is very noisy on the repaired K2
> > compared with my own K2.
> >
> > I hear a continual soft pulse about every second which does not
> > increase as the AF gain is increased.  When I disconnect the radio
> > from N1MM Logger, it goes away.
> >
> > Is there anything I can do to reduce the volume of the polling,
> > please?
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 NB design contest ?

2005-02-13 Thread Donald Nesbitt
This is a GREAT idea!  There are so many extremely technically gifted guys
and gals out there with a keen interest in Elecraft and the K2 that I'll bet
it would be a huge success!  Alas, I'm not one of the technically gifted so
I can't do a thing with the design but would be very willing to be a beta
tester!  Thanks for suggesting it!  73 es gud dx  --don n4hh K2/100 #2028,
KAT100, etc, etc!

- Original Message - 
From: "Marinos Markomanolakis, M.D." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2005 1:41 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 NB design contest ?


.
>
> This is the greatest thing about this radio: Improved versions are
adopted,
> but the earlier models remain upgradable and you do not have to worry
about
> buying another K2 down the road in order to get the newer version (eg 756
> "family").



> What if Elecraft declared a K2NB "design contest", where every one with
the
> necessary technical background would be welcome to experiment and then
> submit his final design to Elecraft for evaluation. The best design could
be
> selected and the inventor rewarded with a specific winning price.
> This way everyone can be benefited and we can expect to see an improvement
> within a reasonable time frame.



> Marinos, ki4gin



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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Question

2005-02-02 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Off List Reply Follows - copied to the reflector

Hi Jeff.  I don't have the schematics in front of me but some of the crystal
filter capacitors were changed in the later revisions to widen the response
from about 2.1 KC (actually measured about 1.9 at 6 dB down points on mine)
to about 2.4 KC.  These caps are a part of the xtal lattice filter and are
identified on the schematic as  CA, CB, etc.

The old "standard" was the approximate 2.1 kc width and the new "standard"
is the 2.4 kc width (maybe it was 2.3 - something like that).

As I recall, a couple of other changes were made - a couple of resistors and
an electrolytic capacitor - and additionally, enhanced xtals were available
and still are as "matched" sets.

Just my 2 cents but I'd change the xtal lattice caps to the "new" values now
during initial construction.  Removing those caps is a real pain later -
this from experience as I've done it a total of 3 times to get various
widths.  All in all, the 2.4 width is very nice!  As for the matched xtal
set, I did change out mine and noticed no difference at all.  Others have
reported that it did make a big difference.  Hope that helps - 73 es have
fun --Don N4HH K2/100/KAT100 #2028, etc, etc

>
> My question is regarding the current Rev. F. as compared to my Rev. D.  I
> noticed that some component values are different, but the board layout
looks
> the same.  I assume that the values have been optimized.
>
> Is this an accurate assessment?  Can I simply change the values to the Rev
F
> values?  Should I just stick with the Rev D values that originally came in
> my kit?

>   Jeff - VA3JFF
>   K2 #3375
>   KX1 #631
>   Canadian QRP Award:  http://www3.sympatico.ca/wjhetherington/cqa.htm



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Re: [Elecraft] Which Mods Are Applicable??

2005-01-27 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hello Jim - not to worry - you don't have to make ANY mods to ". . .  make a
new radio work."  My K2 is serial number 2028 (a few years old) and I DIDN'T
HAVE to make any mods to it.  It worked just great as it was!  That is not
to say that I have not made any - in fact. I've made a bunch but only
because I wanted it to be "current" with the latest ones.   If you get one
now, almost all the "mods" that you have read about are already a part of
the "new" radio!

Keep in mind that most of the "regulars" on the reflector have a propensity
for tinkering with the rig in an effort to make it even better.  (Elecraft
even encourages you to do that - amazing!) The terrific part of the Elecraft
Community is that when someone comes up with something that truly improves
the radio, Wayne and Eric are very interested in incorporating it into the
new ones and providing for modifications of the older ones.

Aside from the fact that the K2 is simply a superb radio, the sense of
"community" and "responsiveness" of the "company" are the best benefits that
I can think of and almost without equal in the industry.  As an example,
consider the Yaesu 1000 series (yes, I have the Mark V - and a couple of
other "high end" rigs as well - in addition to my K2) - there has been a
problem with the noise blanker generating nasty artifacts in the passband in
the presence of strong signals for a long time (at least 10 years) - and -
the "cure" has been equally well known for almost as long!  It's a simple
220 ohm resistor that is moved from one point and connected at another -
and - to this day Yaesu has still not made this simple production change to
the brand new Mark V's in the supply chain!  Maybe it will appear in their
new FTDX-9000 series - maybe!  I have an idea the had this been the case
with the K2, it would have quickly appeared in the latest kits, the
"community" would have been alerted, and a "mod" would have been made
available!

No, I'm not an employee of the company nor do I have any monetary interest
in it - I'm just an experienced ham (48 years on the air) and DXer (345
confirmed!) who really loves what Elecraft has done both technically and
more importantly in truly "putting the fun back in ham radio."

Come on it Jim - the water's fine :-)  73 es gud dx -- Don N4HH
K2/100/KAT100, etc. etc!

- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Harris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft" 
Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2005 4:29 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Which Mods Are Applicable??



> In trying to cover all be bases before order a K2 with
> many of the bells and whistles I've found reference to
> "modifications."  In reviewing the elecraft website
> I've found a listing of something like 50
> modifications.

 

>It appears I could spend a hundred
> dollars or more on modifications to make a new radio
> work.  That could wreck my radio budget.
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> Jim, AB0UK



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[Elecraft] A/B VFO Independent Mode Settings

2005-01-22 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Agreed Mike - I'd like to see this included in the next software release
too.  73 es gud dx --Don N4HH K2/100/KPA100 #2028, etc, etc!


> Personally I'd be more interested in the A/B VFO switching remembering
> independent mode settings.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike VP8NO




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 turning power behavior

2005-01-21 Thread Donald Nesbitt
OK - now that I have started from 0.01 and gone UP to 100w with PTT held
closed on usb, mine does the same thing that you describe (stops xmit as
soon as the KPA100 kicks in - still in xmit mode but no power out) AND
starting from 100w and going down to 0.01 it does not do this (ie continues
to xmit throughout the range).  Now I'm not sure just why I'd ever want to
do "up" scenario but since it does not continue to xmit when doing this it
would tend to save a little abuse of the relay contacts.  A nice "feature!"
73  --don n4hh

- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Arntzen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ; "S55M" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 2:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 turning power behavior


> My K2 #3829 with KPA100 act the same way.
> Don't think it's a building error.
> Maybe something in the software.
>
> Tom LA1PHA
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "S55M" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 12:45 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 turning power behavior
>
>
> > OK.I will write it down agn step by step...
> >
> >
> > 1.Turn Power button to 0,1W (full left)
> >
> > 2.Press PTT
> >
> > 3.When on TX without releasing PTT turn power up over 10W limit to turn
on
> > 100W PA.
> >
> > When i do this my K2 stops transmiting above the 10W point (when KPA100
> > clicks up).
> > The only thing to do then is to release PTT and press it again and
"voila"
> > on the AIR again.
> >
> > If i go in reverse direction (turning power from 100Wtts to less then
10W)
> > everything works fine!
> >
> > K2 Nr-3204 SW- 1.09 and 2.04
> >
> > It's not a problem but must be a hint.
> >
> >
> > S55M-Adi
> >
> >
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: "Donald Nesbitt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: "Michael Harris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "S55M"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
> > 
> > Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 12:00 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 turning power behavior
> >
> >
> >> Not on mine either.  73  --don n4hh K2/100/KAT100 #2028
> >> - Original Message - 
> >> From: "Michael Harris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> To: "S55M" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
> >> Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2005 5:22 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 turning power behavior
> >>
> >>
> >> > G'day,
> >> >
> >> > 
> >> > So...if i press the PTT (dot line on keyer when on USB) without
talking
> >> > (or maybe also with ssb modulation because i did not test it) and
turn
> > the
> >> > power button on 100W and then reduce the power back to minimum my K2
> > stops
> >> > transmitting.I must then release the PTT and press it again to go
into
> > TX
> >> > mode.
> >> > Is this happening with all K2's?
> >> > 
> >> >
> >> > Not on #1400 (external KPA100/KAT100 combo) unless I've read the
above
> >> > incorrectly.
> >> >
> >> > Regards,
> >> >
> >> > Mike VP8NO
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -- 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 turning power behavior

2005-01-20 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Not on mine either.  73  --don n4hh K2/100/KAT100 #2028
- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Harris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "S55M" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2005 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 turning power behavior


> G'day,
>
> 
> So...if i press the PTT (dot line on keyer when on USB) without talking
> (or maybe also with ssb modulation because i did not test it) and turn the
> power button on 100W and then reduce the power back to minimum my K2 stops
> transmitting.I must then release the PTT and press it again to go into TX
> mode.
> Is this happening with all K2's?
> 
>
> Not on #1400 (external KPA100/KAT100 combo) unless I've read the above
> incorrectly.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike VP8NO



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Re: [Elecraft] Questions from a Possible Builder/Owner

2005-01-03 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hi Jim,

> 1.  How does the K2/100 key an RF amplifier (AL-811)?
> I have a Heil footswitch with a second cable for
> amplifier keying.  But, would prefer to use keying
> from the rig itself.

The KPA100 has a built-in solid state keying circuit for positively keyed
amplifiers (like your AL-811).  There is an RCA jack on the back of the
KPA100 and you simply connect an RCA male cable from it to the Relay jack on
the AL-811.  There is no need for a second cable.

> 2.  How is ALC sent from my RF amplifier back to the
> K2/100?  I've reviewed the K2/100 manuals and cannot
> find how it is done.  Maybe it really isn't needed.

The K2/100 does not have any provision for ALC input from an external
source.  ALC from the AL-811 amplifier back to the K2 is not necessary.
Since ALC from an external amplifier is generated "after the fact" it does
little to control the generation of distortion products that result from the
amplifier being overdrive.  In most amateur amplifiers, in order for an ALC
voltage to be generated , the amp must be overdriven in the first place!
Obviously this is not good!  Of couse, the power control on the K2/100 can
always be set to a level such that various amplifiers are not overdriven.

> 3.  How do I adapt my Heil Headset Pro and Goldline
> microphones.  They currently are used with an
> IC-746pro by using a Heil adapter cable.  They now go
> thru a homebrew switchbox with the adapter cable
> between the rig and switchbox.

The microphone input circuit in the K2 has provisions on a jumper block to
route functions to various pins according to which microphone you wish to
use.  These options are explained and individual choices are made during
construction of the K2.  I am not familier with the requirements of the Heil
Headset Pro and the Goldline microphones but at the worst, you might have to
construct a simple one transistor pre-amplifier to use them with the K2.
I'm sure you will get responses from others who have use these microphones
with their K2's.

Have fun - it's quite the impressive rig!! 73 es gud dxing --don n4hh
K2/100/KAT100 #2028



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Re: [Elecraft] Question about KNB2 Noise Blanker

2005-01-02 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hi Thom.  Not to prolong the agony (I think that Wayne has already put this
on the "list" - hope it moves up to a high priority), but I have the same
problem as you do and for general "power-line" noise, my KNB2 is useless -
however, there is a certain "pop, popping, frying" noise that is S9+30 on 80
meters that it eliminates completely!!  Too bad I don't operate 80!

I'd be glad to beta test something if anyone's got some mods (yes, I already
tried changing the "NB2" capacitor a number of times all to no avail).  Now
before anyone gets too terribly defensive, I've already rated my K2 as way
above my Pro II and the Mark V - but simply put, the noise blanker could use
some technical attention.  73 es Happy New Year --Don N4HH
K2/100/#2028/KPA100, etc. etc.

- Original Message - 
From: "Thom R. Lacosta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Marinos Markomanolakis, M.D." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2005 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question about KNB2 Noise Blanker


> On Sun, 2 Jan 2005, Marinos Markomanolakis, M.D. wrote:

> Couldn't agree more...I live in a very old part of the city
here...surrounded by
> industrial users of power, a leaking power grid and a utility that doesn't
care.




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Re: [Fwd: Re: [Elecraft] Big K2 (or K2B - B for Big)]

2004-12-27 Thread Donald Nesbitt
OK - I can't stand it any more !  Here's my 2 cents.  I want a  K3!  I want
it to be the same size as my Collins KWM-2 - in fact, I'd like it to look
and "feel" like my M2 or S-Line gear with a great cabinet, really nice
paint,  excellent rotary knob placement and size with just a couple of
additions to the front panel simplicity of the KWM-2 - let's see, to the M2,
add DSP for notch, etc; IF level noise blanking, band stacking registers
like the Pro II - and - 200 watts output like the 1000MP Mark V - and, oh
yes, a built in power supply.  Hummm - I wonder if I can find a demolished
KWM-2, tear the guts out of it, drop my K2/100/KAT100  in along with a power
supply, hook up the knobs and . . . .  73 es gud dx  --don n4hh
K2/100/KAT100, etc, etc



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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 - FL2100

2004-12-03 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hello Stewart - I did this quite a long time ago and as I recall the FL-2100
presented a negative voltage on the keying line (hu - almost 100% sure
about this but you can easily check with a VOM or DMM) and so I couldn't use
the solid state switch built into the KPA100 as it will only switch positive
voltages and had to use an external reed relay to trip the relay keying
circuit to ground.

Actually using the amp with the K2/100 was straightforward and worked quite
well - as long as you keep the K2/100 away from the magnetic field of the
power xfmer of the amp.  The power xfrmer is located on the left rear of the
FL-2100 so put the K2/100 to the right of the amplifier with a little
separation between them.  In my case, I had a small laptop computer in the
center with the amp to the left and the K2/100 to the right and that worked
just fine.  I particularly liked the fact that the FL-2100 had the SWR
bridge built in and in the forward position, that made it very easy to tune
up.  Had the amp for many years and the 572B's were still going strong (700
to 800 watts output) when I passed it along to someone else.  Frankly, I
wish I still had it - nice small size, very docile, quiet and reliable.
Have fun.  73  --don n4hh K2/100 #2028

- Original Message - 
From: "Stewart Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 5:33 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2/100 - FL2100


Has anyone on the reflector experience/hints of connecting and using a
FL2100
linear with a K2/100 ?

Many T.I.A

Stewart G3RXQ

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 amp keying?

2004-12-01 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hi Tom.  If you already have the KPA100, look on the rear panel and you will
see an RCA jack marked "PA KEY OUT" between the ground connection and the
power connector - this will allow you to key your external amplifier
directly - but only if your amplifier has a positive voltage for its keying
line.  If  your amplifier uses a negative voltage keying circuit (like the
Collins 30L-1 and some others) you will need to construct an external
circuit to key the amp.  73 --don n4hh K2/100 #2028

- Original Message - 
From: "TMorton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft" 
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 8:11 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2/100 amp keying?


> I would like to be able to key an external amp with my K2/100.  I see on
the
> web site a circuit and a reference to the AMPMODKIT  to purchase the
parts.
> There I see a note that the parts are included in the KPA100 kit. However,
I
> don't remember building this and don't see a connection point on the back
of
> the /100 cabinet. Did I miss something?
>
> 73
>
> Tom
>
> K6CT
>
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[Elecraft] K2 and the TX9 from the Southeast

2004-10-22 Thread Donald Nesbitt
With my poor antennas and equally poor propagation (with only a couple of
exceptions, they were ESP) working the TX9 from here in the Southeast was
NOT easy for me!  Like some others, I also spent pretty much the entire
period of their operation chasing them on about 5 hours of sleep per night.
The result:  3 contacts - 2 cw (17 meters - one QRO, one QRP) and 1 ssb (10
meters).  TX9 is DXCC # 344 for me so in my little world it had to be "bell
to bell."

I have 4 stations set up (lots of equipment - lots of covenant restrictions
and therefore rotton antennas!) each with linear amps.  K2; Icom 756 Pro II;
Yaesu 1000MP Mark V; and Collins S-line.  All three qso's were made using
the K2!

With their signals ESP most of the time, the only rig that gave me any sort
of readable copy was the K2 - yes, I could tell they were in there on the
others but I could actually copy them on the K2 !  In order they were:  K2,
75S-3, and the Pro II and MK V were about the same.  I know that the 40 year
old Collins 75S-3 being second may seem out of place to many but with the
200 hz Collins xtal filter (augmented with the Timewave DSP 5-9+) it is
quite amazing even in today's world (see Sherwood's various musings on
rcvrs).

The Pro II had one advantage over the K2 and the others - the notch filter
on it simply is the best!  On ssb the notch filter eliminated the cw on top
of them on 40 in the "manual" position - the others could not touch it!

I've never been impressed with the dsp notch in my K2 even with lots of
fiddling with the parameters.  I have to rate it as only "fair" - 'course, I
believe that the Pro II does the dsp notch at the IF and that makes an
amazing difference!

There are lots of things about each of the other rigs that I really like -
but - if I had to keep just one it would have to be the K2.  What an amazing
little box!  73 es gud dx --don n4hh K2/100 #2028, etc, etc.


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Re: [Elecraft] Need a kaput D-104 mic

2004-10-21 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hi John - I don't have an extra but I am doing exactly what you describe -
have both cartridges in the same D-104 head with a mini toggle switch
mounted in the rounded side of the head down near the plug assembly.  A
simple flick of my finger to switch from one to the other.

I'm using that head on an amplified base to overcome the very low output of
both the HC-4 and HC-5.  But - the proverbial "but" - frankly I think that
the original D-104 xtal cartridge is much better than either - to me, it
just has more punch and better "articulation" and most of my contacts agree!
YMMV Have at it!  73  --don n4hh K2/100 #2028, etc, etc.

- Original Message - 
From: "John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft Mail List" 
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 12:46 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Need a kaput D-104 mic


> I have had a D-104 in use for many years and I got to thinking that 104
mic
> has lots of room for both HC-4 and HC-5 elements along with a spdt switch.
> I might even build the preamp that was just mentioned in another thread. I
> don't want to alter my good working mic so I am looking for one that
doesn't
> work.  Does anyone have one that they would like to part with?  I don't
> really need the base, just the mic.
>
> John   K7SVV
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 auto-detect feature

2004-10-21 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hi Vic - I use the auto-detect keying with my paddle and computer both
hooked up at the same time.  My computer "interface" is a simple one
transistor switch.  It works perfectly and as far as I can tell  I don't get
any "spurious long dashes" up to about 33 wpm which is my limit.  Note that
I filed the "as far as I can tell" disclaimer - have not looked at it on a
scope nor have I had any reports - but then - I use it mostly in contesting
and in the heat of battle it's not likely that anyone is going to take the
time to comment!

It is so simple, give it a try and see what you get.  Have fun.  73 es gud
dx  --don n4hh  K2/100 #2028, etc, etc.

- Original Message - 
From: "Vic Rosenthal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 auto-detect feature


> I'm thinking about using the K2 auto-detect keying >feature to allow me to
use   I'm wondering whether I'm >likely to have a problem with spurious long
> dashes when using my paddle.
> -- 
> 73,
> Vic, K2VCO
> Fresno CA
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco



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Re: [Elecraft] rig polling "noise"

2004-10-04 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hi Ken.  Yes - I've had similar noise but not nearly that bad using both
Writelog and N1MM Logger (which by the way I prefer).  First, try to isolate
where it is getting into the rig.  See if it is being radiated or is coming
in on the "special" rs-232 cable to the interface.  Unplug the antenna and
see if it goes away - then try unplugging the cable to see if that does it.
If it is coming in on the cable, try wrapping the "special rs-232" cable
through a large Amidon toroid 6 to 8 times.  That did a great job for me.

'Course, it could be something else all together!  For instance, if you
happen to have the DSP turned on and are looking at the menu for it, you
could be hearing that "bup" - that goes away when you are off that
display (at least for me).  73 es gud contesting!  --don n4hh K2/100/KAT100
#2028, etc, etc.

- Original Message - 
From: "Ken K7ZUM" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2004 8:30 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] rig polling "noise"


Hi All,

 here it is, contest season, and would like to use the K2 in the C.W.
tests,
hooked up the computer and logging programs to the K2, work just fine, cept
I pick up the computer polling the radio, is abt S-9 on ten, S-6 on 15, and
gets
less as I go down the bands, anybody else have such a problem ??
this is using Writelog, Trlog, and to a lesser extent, K2 remote

have used the same computer on my Omni 6 plus, an old TS-570, and a few
other
rigs, have never heard this before, any suggestions ??
other than turning the polling feature off


73 de K7ZUM
Ken in Gres"HAM"  Ore

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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM

2004-08-29 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hi Bob - I see by your posts on the N1MM Logger group that the LPT port
address on your laptop was indeed not correctly set just as I had
conjectured and, that once set, it solved your basic LPT keying problem!
 Ha - my neck is still in tact!  Thank you very much :-)

As to the connection of the keying diodes and the correct setting of the K2
software, I note that Rich KE0X has already answered that one quite nicely -
no need for germanium diodes - the 1N4148 silicon diodes should work well -
that is what I'm using.  Following his directions, your system should be
working well at this point.

Glad you are now up and running.  Have fun es 73  --Don N4HH  K2/100 #2028
KAT100, KX1 #243, etc, etc,

- Original Message - 
From: "Donald Nesbitt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Bob Tellefsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elecraft"

Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N1MM

Donald Nesbitt wrote:



>The only thing I can come up with would be to make >sure the "Other" block
is
> checked in the Logger set-up  - just opposite the LPT >port that you have
> selected - AND - that the proper CW/Ptt Port Address >is entered in the
> window.  I recall reading that for some systems the >Logger default value
for
> the port address is not correct.  You should be able to >look at your
> hardware set-up on the computer to see what the >address is for the LPT
port
> that you are trying to use and then enter that value in the >window.



Donald Nesbitt also wrote:

> I'm probably way out on the limb here (gulp) but I'm >guessing that it
will
> turn out to be either the "Other" check or that the >selected LPT port
> address is not correct.


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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM

2004-08-29 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hello Bob. I'm also using a wireless connection with a card in my old IBM
380ED and like yours, it works quite well.  You didn't say what version of
Logger  you were using but I'm guessing that as far as parallel port keying
goes that it does not (or at least should not) make any difference.  You
must be using XP or 2000 since you said that you installed the "port"
program.

The only thing I can come up with would be to make sure the "Other" block is
checked in the Logger set-up  - just opposite the LPT port that you have
selected - AND - that the proper CW/Ptt Port Address is entered in the
window.  I recall reading that for some systems the Logger default value for
the port address is not correct.  You should be able to look at your
hardware set-up on the computer to see what the address is for the LPT port
that you are trying to use and then enter that value in the window.

 Next, I would remove the laptop from the port replicator and then use a
vom/dmm to check for keying action right at the parallel port on the
computer (usually pin 17) to verify (or not verify) changes in the state of
the port output.  This would eliminate any problems that might be inherent
in the port replicator or the keying interface you are using.

I'm probably way out on the limb here (gulp) but I'm guessing that it will
turn out to be either the "Other" check or that the selected LPT port
address is not correct.

Try a post on the N1MM group reflector.  I'll bet the group will come up
with a number of other ideas.

Sure hope you get this solved.  It can become intensely frustrating quickly!
With the K2 really gaining popularity for contesting finding solutions to
these problems is of interest to lots of us.  73  --don n4hh

- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Tellefsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Donald Nesbitt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2004 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N1MM


> Hi Don
> Thanks for the note.
>
> I'm using an IBM 770 thinkpad laptop (233 MHz P?),
> running Windows 2000 Professional.
> I have a docking station for it so have both the serial and
> LPT ports easily accessible.  I prefer to let the docking
> station take the wear and tear on connectors, and protect
> the laptop.
>
> My internet connection is via a wireless link to my
> Comcast cable modem.  My shack is out in the garage and this was the
> easiest way to get the connection.
>
> This laptop has worked very well with TR Log, using the
> LPT port for keying.  I have an adapter by W1WEF that provides
> the keying closure output to the rig, and I was assured by him that
> it work ok with N1MM Logger as well.  So far I'm not getting
> any closure out of it however.  I believe it is a simple transistor
> switch, much like the drawing in the Logger manual, packaged
> in a connector that mates with LPT.
>
> I have installed the dlportio.zip, but haven't seen any results from
> it.  I've gone over the available settings, but there must be something
> that I've missed so far.  I did finally find an obscure note that Win2K
> does not have "Monitor cw in computer speaker" ability.  I hope that
> can be fixed along the way.
>
> Anyway, right now I'm stumped.  I have good serial communication
> with the K2, with telnet spots showing up on the bandmap, and the
> rig following clicks on the band map or in telnet.  The bandmap
> arrow follows the tuning of the K2, as well as band changes, so I'm
> satisfied serial comunication is ok.
>
> 73, Bob N6WG


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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM

2004-08-28 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hi Bob & all  - I've been using N1MM Logger with my K2 for a long time with
good results.

Particulars are: a P1 233 mhz 80 meg ram Win 98 SE old IBM laptop with a
"real" RS232 port and using N1MM Logger V 3.221.  I have not used the LPT
port for keying but run control and keying from the single serial port.  I
have not tried Logger Version 4.0. xxx on this machine.  More on that later.
When running the program I generally keep all other resources on the CPU to
a minimum and have never had a problem with speed, etc.

For keying, I use a simple one transistor interface built into an RS232 plug
with two (2) diodes on the keyline in order to use the "External Keying
Auto-Detect" feature of the K2 as shown in Figure 8-1 on page 92 of my K2
(serial #2028) manual.  This works like a champ!  You might want to try the
two diode trick when using the parallel port.

At the computer, I have a regular RS232 splitter (getting harder and harder
to fine these days!) and put my "keyer" on one of the splits and my K2
"special" control cable on the other.

If you look at the latest version of the Help manual, you will find some
information there that I wrote for using filter selection codes with the K2.

RE: Logger Version 4.0.xxx - I am running version 4.0.113 on another machine
with another rig and have not tried it with the K2.  The "other" machine is
a P4 2.4 g 512 meg ram Win XP Home laptop without any physical RS232 ports -
only USB.  I'm using this one with an Icom 756 Pro II.  The results here are
mixed.  Rig control for the 756 Pro II seems pretty flaky on my system with
some of the operations either not working at all or working intermittently
and frequently causing me to either shut down the rig and restart or do the
same with the program or both!  Tom is apparently working on actually making
keying via a serial port converter (USB to RS232) a possibility with version
4.  Keying via the parallel port apparently works with version 4.0.xxx
(although I never used it in V3 apparently it works very well) but if you
are using an XP machine (with either V3 or V4) you will need to download and
install a parallel port program that will support the LPT selection.  As I
recall, either dlportio.zip or port95nt.exe will do the job and information
is available on the web site.  I'm still hoping that eventually they will
get the keying going through the same USB to RS232 converter.  At some point
I may give LPT keying a try.  There has been lots of information on using it
on the group reflector.  Looks simple enough.

It is a very impressive program! Tom and the guys (and gals?) that work with
him on coding the various modules are very talented.  I'm still amazed that
the program is free!  73 es gud dx  --don n4hh K2/100 #2028 KAT100, etc, etc


- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Tellefsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "J F" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2004 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N1MM


> Hi Julius
> I'm in the process of setting up N1MM and my K2.  So far I have
> serial communications working just fine, but I can't get keying out of
> the LPT1 port yet.
>
> What settings have you found that affect this?
>
> Thanks and 73
> Bob N6WG
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Re: [Elecraft] T33C QSL's

2004-08-23 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Nothing here yet either.  Sent on April 15th.  Sure hope they arrive in the
next two weeks so I can have it checked and submitted at out next club
meeting.  It's hard for me to believe that Banaba eluded me all this time.
It will make my DXCC total 344 ! No wonder I'm anxious!  73 es gud dx  --don
n4hh K2/100 #2028

- Original Message - 
From: "Cherie and Lynn Hammond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 11:26 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] T33C QSL's


> Has anyone not received QSL's from T33C (Banaba Is)?


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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 into an Ameritron ALS-600 amp.

2004-08-04 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hello Forrest.  The K2/100 to the ALS-600 is a great combination.  I ran the
ALS-600 with K2/100 for quite a while and then gave up the ALS-600 to my
brother who had been eyeballing it from the time I got it!  It does a great
job for him as well.

I don't have an answer for you re: ALC from the ALS-600 to the K2.  I don't
know an acceptable way to put "external" ALC into the K2 - so I'm no help in
that area.  I always just ran mine by either cranking down the power control
on the K2 or leaving it up and running commensurately higher power out of
the ALS-600.  I might say that the ALS-600 performed very well (ran cool and
didn't "fault") with the higher drive.

However, there is one thing that you might want to look into depending on
the reason you want to limit the drive to 40 watts.  If  your interest in
limiting the drive is because you want to use - or are already using digital
modes with the combination, then what follows will not be of interest.  But,
if your interest in only using 40 watts of drive is related to only having a
limited amount of output from the ALS-600 - AND - you think that you won't
want to exceed that output any time soon, you could continue to leave the K2
power control "up" and reduce the output from the ALS-600 by using a larger
"swamping" resistor in the ALS-600.

Apparently Ameritron has changed the "default" value of the "swamping"
resistor used in the ALS-600 over the years (compare early part lists with
later part lists) - perhaps to compensate for the gain of individual units
or other circuit changes.  I believe the values have been 100, 45, 35 and 25
ohms - or at least values in those ranges.  The resistor is a high wattage
non-inductive type that mounts in a couple of large "fuse clips" and is
located on top of the amplifier board - easily accessible with the top of
the RF unit removed.

Ameritron sells the resistors (as I recall) for about $25 plus shipping and
a call to their factory number will put you in touch with someone (probably
"Willie") who can advise you.  I know all this because mine had the 45 ohm
resistor in it and it was attenuating the drive too much (evidenced by lower
than expected output from the ALS-600).   I replaced it with the 35 ohm
resistor which resulted in much better output.  There is no reason you
couldn't go to a higher value to limit the output if that met your needs.

Usual disclaimers, YMMV, etc, etc.  73 es gud dx  --don n4hh  K2/100 #2028,
KAT100, KX1 #243, etc, etc!

- Original Message - 
From: "Forrest Myers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [Elecraft] K2/100 into an Ameritron ALS-600 amp.




>The K2 does  not have an external connection for ALC . . .
>I don't want to put over about 40 watts into the external . . .

>  Does anyone have any ideas on how to hook an external ALC control to the
> K2/100?
>  Any ideas?
>
>  73,
> Forrest Myers
> AG4ND


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Re: [Elecraft] D104 use with k2/100

2004-08-04 Thread Donald Nesbitt
I use an xtal element D-104 with the built in pre-amp in the bottom of the
stand all the time with my K2 and get great audio reports.  Just be sure to
keep the gain on the mic amp low or you will overdrive the input to the K2.
If you don't have the stand with the amplifier in it you could easily build
a one transistor amp that would do the job - see the Elecraft web site.  If
you are going to go straight in to the K2 without the aid of an external
pre-amp, I'd recommend a "fix" from the "old days" of placing a 200 K or
larger (up to 2 meg) resistor in series with the hot lead of the mic.  The
D-104 was designed to look into the grid of a vacuum tube (remember those?)
and that is generally very high impedance.  The resistor in series with the
hot lead will allow the audio response to develop some low frequencies that
are greatly attenuated when you run the high impedance mic into a very low
impedance input.  If you go the resistor route, the audio drive to the K2
input will likely be marginal.  Some have used a small step-up transformer
instead with some success.  All in all, properly terminated, the D-104 is
still very hard to beat for great audio quality and punch!  YMMV Have fun,
73 es gud dx  --don n4hh K2/100 #2028 KAT100, KX1 #243, etc, etc.

- Original Message - 
From: "linda doyle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 7:33 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] D104 use with k2/100


has anyone been sucessful with using the D104 xtal element with the
k2/100,I'm wondering if the preamp will sucessfully make the transformation
from high impedence to low impedence that the k2/100 needs would appreciate
any input..Am Presently using the k2 proset but my audio reports are less
than flattering..John K1GUN
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: receiving noise without antenna on certain qrgs

2004-07-12 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hello Rolf.  Yes, I have noticed the same thing (it appeared that I was
picking up noise generated by my nearby computer and that the noise was not
being internally generated in the K2) when touching the nut on key socket on
the rear of the  K2.  This nut should be "ground" but I discovered that it
was not - and - that the "sleeve" on the internal connector (key jack)
rotates within the housing (could be broken or something?).  I scraped off
some of the paint under the external nut in order to make sure that at least
the nut was making a good ground connection to the chassis.  That seems to
have "cured" the noise pick up.

Now I am hoping that it also "cured" a problem that I have noticed when I am
in the field using the internal battery - that being  that after a while,
the keyer will just start operating by itself sending a nice string of dits!
Only happens when the keyer paddle is plugged in - and - yes - I have
checked the connections on the paddle for possible shorts as well as
substituting another paddle with the same results.  As long as the cable was
not plugged in to the jack, the "self generation" did not occur.  I have not
had a chance to check out if grounding the nut has had any effect on this
"feature" yet - hi  73 es gl --don n4hh K2/100 #2028 etc, etc!


- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2004 9:24 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2: receiving noise without antenna on certain qrgs


> Dr OMs,
> currently, I am experiencing noise on certain frequencies while
> receiveing while no antenna is connected. To receive this noise, one has
> to touch the key connector. This noise can be heard on e.g. 7010 khz. We
> have experienced this noise with several K2 in our local ham club. Could
> this be a bad ground connection of the key connector?
>
> vy 73 de Rolf, DL8BAG, K2 806
>
>
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[Elecraft] KX1 Freq & Filter Offset?

2004-06-27 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Using the narrowest filter setting to battle qrm in FD confirms that I have
the best copy on signals when they give me a recovered audio tone of about
470 hz - and - when I tune them in for that peak, I am (of course) off their
frequency since the KX1 seems to have a "fixed" offset of about 600 +/- hz.
At QRO it's no big deal but running about 1/2 watt output (weak batteries!)
I am having great fun but sure would like to be able to zero-beat them and
still receive them on my peak.  So - is there any way to "slide" the filter
response up and down in the KX1 as can be done with the K2?  I've confirmed
the narrow filter peak at about 470 hz using a broadband noise source and
Spectrogram and can't see any way to "move" the filter response to where I
need it to be.  The way I read the bfo and dds circuits it may end up to be
a capacitor substitution as opposed to a software fix.  Surely I'm missing
something simple.Any ideas?  73 es have fun --don n4hh

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Re: [Elecraft] Dumb(?) dummy load question

2004-06-22 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hi Eric - if the 10W 50 ohm resistor is NOT a "non-inductive" resistor (and
if you got it at RS it is a pretty sure bet that it is a wire-wound - and -
they are not "non-inductive - but - being wire-wound - are very
inductive!!), then you are having problems because it is NOT presenting a
pure (or reasonably pure) 50 ohm load to your KX1 even though the resistor
reads 50 ohms at DC (as read by your DMM).  At RF frequencies, it will
exhibit "reactance" in addition to the "resistance" and this will make it
look like something other than a resistive dummy load to the KX1.  It will
look more like a pretty poor antenna with very high SWR and the readings
that you get on the KX1 in the calibrate position will be incorrect - VERY
incorrect!!

Most likely this is what you are experiencing and there is nothing wrong
with the rig as evidenced by the fact that when you run it into an SWR close
to 1:1 it seems to read correctly!

Bottom line - see if you can get your $ back at RS and get an actual dummy
load that is close to purely resistive at RF.  Have fun es 73  --don n4hh
K2/100/KAT100/etc/etc/#2028 and KX1/etc #243

- Original Message - 
From: "Eric Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 9:32 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Dumb(?) dummy load question


In an attempt to save pennies, I got a 10W 50 ohm resistor ($1.79 for two)
at the Shack and soldered it to a male BNC--I figured this would make a
serviceable QRP dummy load.  The resistor checked out at 50.0 ohm on my DMM.

When I hooked this to my KX1 and went through the ATU alignment procedure
(nulling C9, etc), I only get an apparent out put of about 0.3W (according
to the display on the radio).  Ditto when I tune my G5RV--I get to 1:1.1,
but with only 0.3W.  (This antenna/feedline system is tunable by my LDG Z100
to 1:1; see below.)

I had previously gone through the ATU alignment using, instead of a dummy
load, the G5RV routed through the external match (the LDG Z100) tuned for
that frequency.  I figured that would  be pretty close to 50 ohm, since it
achieves an apparent 1:1 on that freq with my Icom 706 rig.

When I use the tuned G5RV as a "dummy load" and go through alignment, I get
what appear to me more reasonable values--i.e. when I subsequently tune the
same antenna with the KX1 ATU, I get 4.3W and SWR of 1:1.6.

So something funky is going on and I cannot figure it out.  Is there some
bloody obvious reason why the 10W resistor is not a good dummy load?  Is
something else wrong with my rig, which otherwise is nominal in all
respects?  (BTW, I have R4 maxed out clockwise.)  I do not have a wattmeter,
so I cannot independently check output with and without the ATU installed,
but the rig is transmitting on 40 and 20m.

Thanks for any ideas...
73,
Eric
N0HHS
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: KX1 relays switching

2004-06-15 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Humm - when I have the ATU in the "tun" position (yes, it's lowercase on
mine)  I hear the relay click each time I go from band to band including the
jump from 30 to 20 - BUT - when I have the ATU in the "CAL" position, it
does not "click" when going from 30 to 20 as described but does "click" on
the other jumps. All seems to work correctly in both "tun" and "CAL."  Is
there something wrong here?  --don n4hh

- Original Message - 
From: "wayne burdick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Wim van der Zwan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> On Jun 13, 2004, at 10:27 AM, Wim van der Zwan wrote:
>
> > Hello Elecraft users,
> >
> > I have a KX1 with the options 30 m and tuner. the question is?
> > Changing the bands from 40m to 30m, I can hear the relays switching.
> > By changing the band from 30m to 20m, I can not hear the relays
> > switching but 20m is Ok. and everything works fine. By changing from
> > 20m to 40m, I can hear the relays switching. The questions is ? is
> > that normale that by changing the bands from 30m to 20m no relays
> > switching
>
> This is correct, Wim.  30 meters uses the 20 meter relay settings. The
> 30-meter band-pass filters are switched in using PIN diodes.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR

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