Re: [Elecraft] Colour Codes

2005-04-10 Thread Doug Forman
Better be right, or your great big venture goes west!

(remembered from the 60's when I was learning this stuff)

73 de N7BNT - Doug

On Apr 9, 2005 9:41 PM, Stephen Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Bad boys race our young girls, but violet grey wins.
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[Elecraft] Cheap 12VDC Portable Power

2005-04-10 Thread Doug Forman
Greetings all,

I just received a mailing from Surplus Computers which is advertising
a 12V Auto JumpStart and Air Compressor for $19.99.

On closer look, this appears to be exactly the same unit I have
(purchased at Costco a year ago for around $60) for portable ops.  It
contains a 17.5Ah SLA battery, a light, an AC trickle charger, a
cigarette-lighter style DC adaptor, a DC-DC charging cord (for
plugging into your car), an air compressor with hose and jumper
cables!

I hacked mine with leads directly to the battery inside and
terminating to PowerPole connectors (yes, I have drunk the PowerPole
Kool-Aid and it was good!) and take a West Mountain 5-way DC power
strip with me to park picnic tables.

This is a killer deal for 20 bucks (plus shipping on 23 lbs).  Heck, I
think for the price you could remove the SLA battery and throw the
rest away if you wanted to.

Hint:  the AC trickle charger is pretty much useless...  a few hundred
mA takes days to recharge a 17.5Ah battery...  I use an A&A
Engineering 1A charger to charge it up when I get home...  usually
overnight does it.

Here's the link:  

http://www.surpluscomputers.com/store/main.aspx?p=ItemDetail&item=TOL10130

I have no idea how long their "sale" price is good for.

73 de N7BNT - Doug

Disclaimer:  I have absolutely nothing to do with this company except
as an occasional customer!
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Re: [Elecraft] Resistor Color Code Guide

2005-04-09 Thread Doug Forman

Black Brown Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Violet Grey White

Better Be Right Or Your Great Big Venture Goes West

-de  N7BNT  Doug

Thom R Lacosta wrote:


On Sat, 9 Apr 2005, Sandy wrote:


Color code is easy!  Remember the rhyme we learned in radio school:

Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly!



May not be Politically Correct! craft.com


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[Elecraft] OT: wanted - iambic paddles for new ham

2005-04-02 Thread Doug Forman

Greetings everyone,

My 13-year-old son got his ticket last week (KE7DMK) and is quickly 
learning - and liking - CW.  I built him a little memory keyer to 
practice with, but he is in need of paddles to use with it.


If you have an old and/or spare pair of paddles that you would part 
with free or cheap (he is on the 50/50 plan with me, I pay half, but 
his half could be an obstacle at the moment), please contact me 
off-list.


Thanks &  73,

Doug  N7BNT

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Re: [Elecraft] Is it possible to monitor digital transmissions.

2004-12-19 Thread Doug Forman

Hi Jerry,

I can't imagine running PSK without PSKmeter 
(http://www.ssiserver.com/info/pskmeter/).  After reading about it in 
QST last February, I ordered and built the kit.


PSKmeter is a essential one-trick-pony for PSK ops.  Very neat.  I have 
built and use 2 of them.


There is also another product out there "IMD Meter" out there, but I 
have never seen or used one.


Seasons greetings to all,

Doug  N7BNT

--

On Dec 17, 2004, at 5:55 AM, n2uz wrote:

I am new to my K2 , #4472, and would like to know if it is possible to 
monitor my digital transmissions.  On CW I can hear what I am sending, 
but not on PSK, rtty and Hell modes.  Is that normal. Thanks in 
advance to all who respond.


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Re: [Elecraft] Blown ammeter question used with KX1/gelcell/solar panel

2004-11-28 Thread Doug Forman
Thanks to Don and Ron for their detailed help, I think I'm on the right 
path to fixing this now.


-doug

On Nov 28, 2004, at 12:22 PM, Doug Forman wrote:

I use inexpensive (now discontinued) Radio Shack bench volt and 
ammeters when I am combining rechargeable batteries and a small solar 
panel for QRP portable use.


(btw, Volkswagon places small 12v solar panels in the windshield of 
some of their cars when shipped from overseas to keep the batteries 
trickle charged...  these are ruggedly built, are labeled for 
3.2w/18.8v/170ma, and have a cigarette-lighter plug attached...  
bought mine for around $9 on eBay).


In a "senior moment" (cough) I recently mistakingly hooked 12v from a 
small 0.8ah gelcell battery (that I connect to my KX1) directly across 
the + and - terminals of my 0-1000mA meter.  After the smoke cleared, 
and I disassembled the case, I noticed that I had melted a wire 
connecting the meter to a binding post.


The ammeter is a simple meter with three binding posts...  0-500, 
0-1000 and common.  It sold for around $13 at Radio Shack (part number 
22-401) but was discontinued over a year ago (I've tried to just buy 
another one with no luck).  Inside the small plastic case is the meter 
and wires, no other parts.


Internally, the meter has no part markings other than the word 
"CHINA".  The black (hookup) wire from the meter terminal was soldered 
to a bare wire covered with loose fabric insulation, which was then 
soldered to the common (black) binding post (this was the wire that 
melted), and the red (hookup) wire connects to a bare wire which 
connects the (red) 0-500 and (red) 0-1000 binding posts and is covered 
with loose fabric insulation close to the 0-500 binding post (the red 
side is still there and did not melt).


Any thoughts, suggestions and wisdom from the "wizards of the list" 
would be most appreciated - as this question may be a little 
off-topic, perhaps replies should be sent to me off-list (or not?) 
your choice...


72,

Doug  N7BNT

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[Elecraft] Blown ammeter question used with KX1/gelcell/solar panel

2004-11-28 Thread Doug Forman
I use inexpensive (now discontinued) Radio Shack bench volt and 
ammeters when I am combining rechargeable batteries and a small solar 
panel for QRP portable use.


(btw, Volkswagon places small 12v solar panels in the windshield of 
some of their cars when shipped from overseas to keep the batteries 
trickle charged...  these are ruggedly built, are labeled for 
3.2w/18.8v/170ma, and have a cigarette-lighter plug attached...  bought 
mine for around $9 on eBay).


In a "senior moment" (cough) I recently mistakingly hooked 12v from a 
small 0.8ah gelcell battery (that I connect to my KX1) directly across 
the + and - terminals of my 0-1000mA meter.  After the smoke cleared, 
and I disassembled the case, I noticed that I had melted a wire 
connecting the meter to a binding post.


The ammeter is a simple meter with three binding posts...  0-500, 
0-1000 and common.  It sold for around $13 at Radio Shack (part number 
22-401) but was discontinued over a year ago (I've tried to just buy 
another one with no luck).  Inside the small plastic case is the meter 
and wires, no other parts.


Internally, the meter has no part markings other than the word "CHINA". 
 The black (hookup) wire from the meter terminal was soldered to a bare 
wire covered with loose fabric insulation, which was then soldered to 
the common (black) binding post (this was the wire that melted), and 
the red (hookup) wire connects to a bare wire which connects the (red) 
0-500 and (red) 0-1000 binding posts and is covered with loose fabric 
insulation close to the 0-500 binding post (the red side is still there 
and did not melt).


Any thoughts, suggestions and wisdom from the "wizards of the list" 
would be most appreciated - as this question may be a little off-topic, 
perhaps replies should be sent to me off-list (or not?) your choice...


72,

Doug  N7BNT

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[Elecraft] KX1 Carrying Cases back in stock!

2004-11-19 Thread Doug Forman
After being sold out for over a month, I now have a new shipment of 
very nice Carrying Cases for the KX1 in stock for immediate shipment.


Look for them on eBay or order direct on my website:  
http://www.n7bnt.com/kx1case.html


72,

Doug Forman N7BNT

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Re: [Elecraft] Comparing HexKey CW Paddle

2004-11-03 Thread Doug Forman
No opportunity to compare the HexKey to anything yet.  When I placed my 
order on the Elecraft website last week, I got an email confirmation 
the next day saying "the KHXKEY is on backorder for approximately 5 
weeks"...


-de  N7BNT Doug

===

On Nov 1, 2004, at 6:00 PM, Jeff Burns wrote:

Has anyone been able to compare the new HexKey to keys made by Begali 
or

Schurr?  I have a Schurr Portable Wabbler and have had my eyes on the
Graciella Vertical Key. Just wondering how thy compare.



Jeff Burns

AD9T



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Re: [Elecraft] Two battery questions - K2 portable operations

2004-10-18 Thread Doug Forman
Thanks to everyone who responded publicly and privately regarding my K2 
portable battery questions.  Very helpful information was shared and I 
certainly learned more about using SLA batteries generally, and in 
combination with each other too.


Here are some of the suggestions gleaned from multiple emails:

1.  In a perfect world, it's not advisable to connect two identical SLA 
batteries in parallel  (since if one battery is lower than the other, 
the high one will discharge into the lower one in an attempt to charge 
it and equalize voltages.)  Instead, use a switch, or a battery isolator.


2.  Don't let the battery voltage drop below approx 10.5v on a 12v 
battery to prevent damage to the battery.


3.  Keep batteries charged using a trickle charger when not in use (I 
use an A&A Engineering "Smart Battery Charger")


4.  Consder the relative weight of the battery for portable ops.

5.  Don't attempt to charge a SLA battery directly from a solar panel 
without a charge controller.  (found a 10/2001 QST article featuring the 
SunLogic Micro M+ Charge Controller that looks appealing!)


6.  Some ARES folk like 17Ah SLA's for portable ops, commenting that 
they "are a great size for portable backpack operation". 
(www.eham.net/articles/2228)


Thanks to everyone for responding!

73,

Doug - N7BNT






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[Elecraft] Two battery questions - K2 portable operations

2004-10-15 Thread Doug Forman
I'm assembling a portable kit in which I can fit two small sealed 
lead-acid batteries.


For my specific size requirements, I have the option of putting (2) 12v 
(3.0Ah) batteries in parallel, or (2) 6v (3.0Ah) batteries in series to 
obtain the 12vdc I need.  (the specific batteries I am considering are 
the PowerSonic PS-1230 - Mouser # 547-PS-1230 or the PowerSonic PS-630 - 
Mouser # 547-PS-630)


It seems to me that with [ 2 x 6v (3.0Ah) = 12v (3.0Ah) ] while [ 2 x 
12v (3.0Ah) = 12v (6.0Ah) ].  Maybe the simplicity of this makes me 
question this assumption, or maybe it's been too long since I did these 
kinds of calcs  ;-)


Could someone please confirm or deny my thoughts here?

Also, I'm trying to calculate (roughly) the useful battery capacity 
based on considering the minimum current draw from a rig, and the 
maximum current draw from the same rig.  For example, given the battery 
configurations above, and considering the K2 approximate minimum current 
draw of 150mA and approximate maximum current draw of 2A (at 10w), what 
is the potential operating time ranges available from the batteries?


Thanks in advance & 73,

Doug  N7BNT

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[Elecraft] I0CG K1 SSB mod

2004-10-04 Thread Doug Forman
I'm curious how many readers on this list have done the I0CG SSB mod to 
their K1's and what the consensus is about it?  I'm especially 
interested in anyone using it for digital modes (i.e. PSK31)  The 
information I can find about the mod seems to end in the Summer 2003.


Thanks,

Doug  N7BNT


On Oct 3, 2004, at 10:52 AM, Sandy W5TVW wrote:

Not REALLY being interested in SSB, I was fascinated by the I0CG 
conversion
for the K1, but only for PSK.  As far as a "new" rig from Elecraft, 
I'd be more

interested in one similar to the K1, but with CW and PSK capabilities.
"Filter" wise, possibly a frequency agile receiver filter bandpass
bandwidth (1.5 khz-.05 khz) and bandpass center frequency variable
over whatever the audio range would be (500-2500 Hz?)
{pipe dreams?}

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message -
From: "Julian, G4ILO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft List" 
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2004 4:16 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: KX1 PSK31? [how about FSK?]


| This could be accomplished with a K1 using I0CG's SSB modifications
| (http://it.geocities.com/giulianoi0cg/i0cg_home_page.html). It's a 
pity
| Elecraft didn't take this idea and create an "official" K1 SSB for 
those

| of us not brave enough to do it the hard way like I0CG.
|
| I suppose a multi-mode QRP rig in a KX1-sized package would be even
| cooler, but I guess it would need a lot of SMD circuitry to make it
| feasible.
| --
| Julian, G4ILO (RSGB, ARRL)
| G4ILO's Shack: http://www.tech-pro.net/g4ilo
|
| Doug Forman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
|
| I would also express my huge interest in a mini-qrp rig (KX1/K1/etc)
| that is multi-band with a built-in antenna tuner for digital modes
| (PSK-31/MFSK/etc).
|
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|
|

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: KX1 PSK31? [how about FSK?]

2004-10-03 Thread Doug Forman
I would also express my huge interest in a mini-qrp rig (KX1/K1/etc) 
that is multi-band with a built-in antenna tuner for digital modes 
(PSK-31/MFSK/etc).


My KX1 is a superb radio.  I absolutely love it and rate it a strong 9 
out of 10.  To make 10, and be used much more for me personally, it 
would need (1) the ability to do digital modes, (2) more frequency 
memories, and (3) computer interface for programming and rig control 
(which sort of goes along with digital modes, and sort of doesn't!)


Okay, so my wish list might not completely be consistent with a "trail 
radio" and the design goals of the KX1.  No problem, I'm flexible.  Add 
my requested features to the K1 instead and I will reply with my 
MasterCard number instantly!  Or maybe a wonderful new Elecraft product 
focused on QRP digital modes?


72/73's

Doug  N7BNT
KX1 # 731

wayne burdick wrote:


Hi Eric,

Great idea, but the KX1's final amplifier operates class C. To make 
the KX1 transmit on SSB would require class AB PA bias and the 
addition of a balanced modulator. This is not readily accomplished 
with either internal mods or an external adapter.


However, it may be possible to operate the KX1 in any low-data-rate, 
dual-tone FSK mode. This is compatible with a class-C final amp, and 
should require only a firmware change. The KX1's key jack would serve 
as the data input/output port for connection to a computer. 
Unfortunately FSK (e.g. traditional RTTY) is not quite as popular as 
PSK31 for QRP use, even though good reliability is possible with some 
variants.


Would this be of interest?

73,
Wayne



On Oct 2, 2004, at 12:32 PM, Eric Ward wrote:

When I was tuning around today on my KX1, I heard the usual strong 
warble around 14.070 and I got the brilliant idea to: plug a patch 
cord from the KX1 headphone output to my soundcard input, launch 
PSK31 Deluxe, crack open the AF gain, and boom, 5 QSOs popped up 
right away.
 
I know the thinking on omitting an SSB option from the KX1 is because 
voice doesn't typically work reliably below about 10W, and an SSB 
board wouldn't fit in the KX1 case.  But like CW, PSK31 can work like 
a champ even at 100s of mW.
 
So how about an Elecraft-designed-and-produced *outboard* SSB adapter 
for the KX1, designed specifically for PSK31?  On biz trips, I 
usually have my KX1 and laptop--it would be great to take along one 
more little black box and be able to work PSK31, while making use of 
the KX1's KXAT1 capability to match a hotel room random wire on 
multiple bands.  (The Small Wonder Labs PSK series looks exceedingly 
cool, but is rock-bound to a single band and requires an 
external tuner for non-resonant antennas.)
 
Good idea?  Dumb idea?
 
73,

Eric
 N0HHS KX1 #670



---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] Favorite pre-assembled BNC/Coax cable vendor?

2004-09-23 Thread Doug Forman

Greetings everyone,

Anyone have recommendations for a great place to buy pre-assembled 
BNC-to-BNC and/or BNC-to-PL259 cable assemblies in various lengths?


Thanks & 73's

Doug  N7BNT

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Re: [Elecraft] Mouser Part # Needed

2004-08-09 Thread Doug Forman

I agree!

I have occasionally used Mouser for small quantities of parts for 
little projects, and they have always been accurate and quick!  I 
always specify First Class Mail when I can for quick delivery.


72/73's

Doug  N7BNT

On Aug 8, 2004, at 10:33 PM, Tom Hammond wrote:


Hi Bryan:

At 09:04 PM 8/8/04, Brian Wruble wrote:
I wonder if one day the folks at Elecraft might publish a list of 
Mouser
(or other supplier) catalog parts numbers for all the parts in the 
Elecraft lineup of kits.  This would probably reduce the burden they 
face supplying replacement parts to the Elecraft buffs.  Mouser 
provides extremely rapid service, even overnight if you're willing to 
pay for it.  Just a thought...


My only(!) problem with Mouser is that they now ship EVERYTHING in a 
box which costs no less than $6.50 to ship (UPS).


They used to ship small parts on padded envelopes for a couple bucks, 
but now nothing goes out unless it's boxed.


I do, however, like the fact that no matter how small your order, 
there's never a handling fee and only ACTUAL shipping is charged. 
There IS a $1 'handling' charge if you ask them to ship via USPS 
because someone must hand-carry the box (again) to the P.O.


They ARE fast and generally accurate in their parts picking.

73,

Tom HammondN0SS


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Re: QRP Power Pack for K1 (was Re: [Elecraft] K2 #4334 alive and well!)

2004-08-03 Thread Doug Forman
Thanks Guido...  yes, I would like to see the schematic if you would 
like to post it.  Very nice work!  From your photos, it looks like you 
have a fun group of Elecraft owners there!


73's

Doug

On Aug 3, 2004, at 12:56 PM, Guido Tedeschi wrote:


Hi Doug,
the "QRP Power Pack" is the perfect little companion for my K1.
It contains a 12V/1.3Ah gel battery and a voltage/current limited 
charger

with a DC-DC converter to charge the battery with only a 12V source.
When 12V is supplied to the input jack, the battery is charged and the
output is directly connected to the input with a small relay, when no 
power
is applied to the input jack, the relay switch the output to the 
battery.
If it can be interesting, I will publish the schematic diagram on the 
web...

Ciao and 73
Guido, ik2bcp


- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Forman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Guido Tedeschi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "Elecraft Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 3:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 #4334 alive and well!




On Aug 1, 2004, at 1:33 PM, Guido Tedeschi wrote:


If you want to see some photos (iz2ftr's rigs are still to be added):
http://www.hamlan.org/elecraftbs/photos.htm


Hi Guido,

Would you like to describe your "QRP Power Pack" featured in the 
photos?


Thanks & 73,

Doug  N7BNT



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #4334 alive and well!

2004-08-01 Thread Doug Forman


On Aug 1, 2004, at 1:33 PM, Guido Tedeschi wrote:


If you want to see some photos (iz2ftr's rigs are still to be added):
http://www.hamlan.org/elecraftbs/photos.htm


Hi Guido,

Would you like to describe your "QRP Power Pack" featured in the photos?

Thanks & 73,

Doug  N7BNT

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[Elecraft] KX1 Accessories Website

2004-07-25 Thread Doug Forman
I'd like to invite you all to visit my new website featuring (a couple, 
so far) items for the KX1.  I hope to be adding other selected QRP 
and/or Elecraft related accessory items as time goes on.


http://www.n7bnt.com

72/73's

Doug  N7BNT
KX1 #731

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna?

2004-07-07 Thread Doug Forman
Okay, this is a follow-up to my KX1 antenna question posted last night.  
I came home tonight and did a bunch more measurements.




First, grouped by antenna:

Cushcraft MA5V "Mini Vertical"
40m:  7055 - (tuner in - 2.1 Watts out, SWR 1.1 ) - (tuner out - 1.4 
Watts out, SWR 5.7) - MFJ-259B: SWR 7.6
30m:  10107 - (tuner in - 4.3 Watts out, SWR 5.6) - (tuner out - 6.3 
Watts out, SWR 9.9) - MFJ-259B: SWR 6.5
20m:  14065 - (tuner in - 2.1 Watts out, SWR 1.0 ) - (tuner out - 2.5 
Watts out, SWR 1.0) - MFJ-259B: SWR 1.1


Slinky Dipole "CliffDweller II"
40m:  7055 - (tuner in - 2.1 Watts out, SWR 1.0) - (tuner out - 2.0 
Watts out, SWR 1.3) - MFJ-259B: SWR 1.6
30m:  10107 - (tuner in - 1.8 Watts out, SWR 5.2) - (tuner out - 1.8 
Watts out, SWR 7.0) - MFJ-259B: SWR 8.4
20m:  14065 - (tuner in - 3.0 Watts out, SWR 1.2) - (tuner out - 1.4 
Watts out, SWR 8.0) - MFJ-259B: SWR 8.8


Dummy Load (Oil-filled "Can-tenna")
40m:  7055 - (tuner in - 2.9 Watts out, SWR 1.0) - (tuner out - 2.2 
Watts out, SWR 1.0)
30m:  10107 - (tuner in - 2.3 Watts out, SWR 1.0) - (tuner out - 2.5 
Watts out, SWR 1.0)
20m:  14065 - (tuner in - 2.3 Watts out, SWR 1.0) - (tuner out - 2.0 
Watts out, SWR 1.0)




Second, grouped by band:

40 meters (7055)
MA5V Vertical - (tuner in - 2.1 Watts out, SWR 1.1 ) - (tuner out - 1.4 
Watts out, SWR 5.7) - MFJ-259B: SWR 7.6
Slinky Dipole - (tuner in - 2.1 Watts out, SWR 1.0) - (tuner out - 2.0 
Watts out, SWR 1.3) - MFJ-259B: SWR 1.6
Dummy Load - (tuner in - 2.9 Watts out, SWR 1.0) - (tuner out - 2.2 
Watts out, SWR 1.0)


30 meters (10107)
MA5V Vertical - (tuner in - 4.3 Watts out, SWR 5.6) - (tuner out - 6.3 
Watts out, SWR 9.9) - MFJ-259B: SWR 6.5
Slinky Dipole - (tuner in - 1.8 Watts out, SWR 5.2) - (tuner out - 1.8 
Watts out, SWR 7.0) - MFJ-259B: SWR 8.4
Dummy Load - (tuner in - 2.3 Watts out, SWR 1.0) - (tuner out - 2.5 
Watts out, SWR 1.0)


20 meters (14065)
MA5V Vertical - (tuner in - 2.1 Watts out, SWR 1.0 ) - (tuner out - 2.5 
Watts out, SWR 1.0) - MFJ-259B: SWR 1.1
Slinky Dipole - (tuner in - 3.0 Watts out, SWR 1.2) - (tuner out - 1.4 
Watts out, SWR 8.0) - MFJ-259B: SWR 8.8
Dummy Load - (tuner in - 2.3 Watts out, SWR 1.0) - (tuner out - 2.0 
Watts out, SWR 1.0)




Notes:

1.  KX1 #731 with 30m and Antenna Tuner installed, running from 
batteries only, Lithium, 8.9v indicated.  All power out and SWR 
indications from the KX1 except as noted from the MFJ-259B.


2.  SWR Analyzer is MFJ-259B

3.  MA5V Vertical is tuned for digital modes, so SWR measurements of 1.0 
and 1.1 are expected.


Observations:

1.  KX1's antenna tuner does a fantastic job matching either antenna on 
40 meters.


2.  KX1's antenna tuner does a dismal job matching either antenna on 30 
meters.


3.  KX1's antenna tuner does a fantastic job matching the slinky dipole 
on 20 meters.

   (vertical is already resonant on 20m)

I guess it's just interesting to me that the internal tuner does such a 
GREAT job matching the 135' slinky dipole on both 20 and 40 meters, but 
falls apart on 30meters.  It's also interesting to me that the internal 
tuner NICELY matches the MA5V on 40 meters (it's only a 10-20m vertical 
with a SWR of 7.6 on the antenna analyzer at 7055khz).


I appreciate the suggestions I have received so far and will check them 
out - first by adjusting the coax length by adding some to see if the 30 
meter situation improves (without negatively affecting 20/40 meters).  
Any other observations or suggestions are welcome!


72's,

Doug  N7BNT




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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna?

2004-07-06 Thread Doug Forman

Hi All,

I'm new to this list and Elecraft too - I've recently completed 
building a "loaded" KX1 #731.


After building and aligning the KX1 with zero problems, I connected it 
to both my 130+ ft "slinky dipole" strung-up in the attic of our 
single-level home (with RG8X) and also my Cushcraft MA5V vertical 
(10-12-15-17-20) up around 33 feet at the base (also with RG8X).  I was 
pleasantly surprised to hear the receiver come alive with signals on 
all three bands.  The built-in antenna tuner reports:


Slinky Dipole "CliffDweller II"
40m:  7055  - 2.1 Watts out, SWR 1.0
30m:  10107 - 1.8 Watts out, SWR 5.2 (relay chatter)
20m:  14065 - 3.0 Watts out, SWR 1.2

Cushcraft MA5V "Mini Vertical"
40m:  7055  - 2.1 Watts out, SWR 1.1
30m:  10107 - 4.3 Watts out, SWR 5.6 (relay chatter) (power out reading 
suspect)

20m:  14065 - 2.1 Watts out, SWR 1.0

Dummy Load (Oil-filled "Can-tenna")
40m:  7055  - 2.9 Watts out, SWR 1.0
30m:  10107 - 2.3 Watts out, SWR 1.0
20m:  14065 - 2.3 Watts out, SWR 1.0

(all using Lithium Batteries)

Any thoughts regarding why the tuner has such a problem on 30m?

Wow, what a great little rig!  This is going to be fun.  Elecraft is 
certainly a class act.


72 & 73

Doug N7BNT

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