[Elecraft] XV 432 questions...

2007-05-03 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi guys,

although the XVTR seems to operate quite ok there are some issues:

Local Oscillator Level:

Max is 3.3 volts with L3 near initial adjustment but L4 and L5 are about two 
turns each out of the body. Osc. restarts ok.

is this ok?

 



Keying for filter adjustment:

When keying the rig power slowly decreases. just a few percent.

 

 

Overload protection behaves strangely:

Rig is configured for use with K2

Jumper 8 removal results in power off from XVTR

Keying the K2 triggers nothing. The LEDs don't begin to flash.



any hint appreciated!



Gerhard 

DH3FAW


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[Elecraft] XV432, Q1...

2006-04-22 Thread Gerhard Schwanz

Hi List,

I soldered faster than I read. So Q1 is now installed in a common fashion 
without teflon spacer. Leads are clipped. What am I going to do now?


If the teflon is just for spacing I would remove the Q, prolong the leads 
and install it without the teflon but spaced (I think the teflon won't fit 
then). Will this work or does the teflon some other magic?


If the teflon does some other magic I think I have to order a new Q1...

Have a nice weekend

Gerhard 




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[Elecraft] Re: K2 receiver problem - AGC alignment, CAL S LO/HI

2005-11-11 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
OK,

I did it for several modes and there are differences which I will leave for
now. Aimed for 3.65 volts at U2 now. Result seems satisfactory to the ear.

Today in the evening we will use a signal generator and a variable
attenuator to test sensitivities of my K2 and this other one.

If results should not be ok I'll let you now.

Thanks so far for all the help!

Gerhard

- Original Message -
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Gerhard Schwanz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 12:37 PM
Subject: RE: K2 receiver problem - AGC alignment, CAL S LO/HI


> Gerhardt,
>
> If you still have a difference between AGC on and off at 3.65 volts or
> lower, I would hesitate to go further, but you certainly can try it and
see
> what happens - no real harm will come from a lower threshold voltage.
>
> After setting the threshold, then adjust CAL S LO first and then CAL S HI
> (the order is important, they interact).  It is not unusual to have to do
> these several times in succession to get it correct.  The low S meter
> response may vary with the filter width and mode, so check all modes with
> the widest filter for each mode.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> > -Original Message-
> >
> > Hi list,
> > hi all those who answered my first question.
> >
> > I had 4V at Pin5 U2. So I replaced R1 with a pot of 50k and set
> > it to 3.65,
> > 3.72 and 3.8V. It got better for sure. The difference between AGC
> > on and off
> > is in all cases noticable, but slightly. But I think it's significant,
> > because...
> >
> > When I CAL S LO and exit it then immediately 1-2 bars of the s-meter
start
> > lighting. So I guess AGC sets in. And this should not be the
> > case, I guess?
> > Any idea?
> >
> > Have a nice day,
> >
> > Gerhard
> >
> >
>






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[Elecraft] K2 receiver problem - AGC alignment, CAL S LO/HI

2005-11-11 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi list,
hi all those who answered my first question.

I had 4V at Pin5 U2. So I replaced R1 with a pot of 50k and set it to 3.65,
3.72 and 3.8V. It got better for sure. The difference between AGC on and off
is in all cases noticable, but slightly. But I think it's significant,
because...

When I CAL S LO and exit it then immediately 1-2 bars of the s-meter start
lighting. So I guess AGC sets in. And this should not be the case, I guess?
Any idea?

Have a nice day,

Gerhard


- Original Message -
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "GS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 3:35 PM
Subject: RE: RE: [Elecraft] K2 receiver problem


> Gerhard,
>
> If you have a K2 with serial number greater than 3000, the AGC adjustment
> pot is on the Control Board near the right end - the designation is R1.
>
> For K2 with SN under 3000, there is no pot, and R1 is a fixed resistor.
> Same procedure applies - change the value of R1 to set the AGC threshold.
> It is easy to substitute a temporary pot (50K will do fine) to make the
> adjustment - once the right value is found, solder in the closest value
> fixed resistor.
>
> In my experience, the fixed resistor that one would end up with will vary
> between 33K at the low end and 47k at the high end.
>
> BTW, if this receiver has worked properly before and suddenly developed
this
> problem, look more closely for a failed component - it will likely be in
the
> AGC area - see the control board schematic in the lower left corner.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From: GS [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 9:48 AM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Ant: RE: [Elecraft] K2 receiver problem
> >
> >
> > Hi Don,
> >
> > I can't find how to set the AGC threshold for optimum
> > receiver sensitivity, neither in the manual nor is
> > there any hint in the circuit. At least not for me ;-)
> >
> > Only threshold mentioned in the manual is for the
> > NB...
> >
> > WHAT do I have to adjust to achieve max. voltage at U2
> > pin 5, ctrl board?
> >
> > Thanks!!!
> >
> > Gerhard
> >
> >
> > --- Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> schrieb:
> >
> > > Gerhardt,
> > >
> > > It sounds like the AGC Threshold is not set
> > > properly.
> > >
> > > I would proceed by first checking the alignment of
> > > the bandpass filters in
> > > Transmit mode (at 2 watts) and then set the AGC
> > > Threshold for optimum
> > > receiver sensitivity - with no antenna connected and
> > > AF and RF Gains set to
> > > max, adjust for the highest voltage at Control Board
> > > U2 pin 5 which yields
> > > no change in the audio noise when switching the AGC
> > > between OFF and ON.
> > > That will usually result in a voltage in the range
> > > of 3.65 to 3.8 volts at
> > > U2 pin 5.  Set the S-meter end points (CAL S Hi and
> > > CAL S-Lo) after setting
> > > the threshold.
> > >
> > > If that does not cure the problem, then look for a
> > > problem in the IF receive
> > > chain - that will be where the signal tracing is
> > > required, follow the
> > > p[rocedure for receiver signal tracing in the
> > > Troubleshooting appendix of
> > > the K2 manual.
> > >
> > >
> > > 73,
> > > Don W3FPR
> > >
> > > > -Original Message-
> > > >
> > > > got a K2 from another OM on my workbench. It's got
> > > a
> > > > receiver problem and I just want to make sure I do
> > > the
> > > > checks in the correct order and I'm looking for
> > > hints,
> > > > if available!
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance!
> > > >
> > > > So here's the problem and what I want to do. It
> > > seems
> > > > the receiver runs with "handbrake on". So the
> > > s-meter
> > > > shows 3 bars without an antenna but the rf gain is
> > > > fully clockwise. I can reduce signals to zero
> > > (using
> > > > RF gain) with this K2 which I can't using my own
> > > K2.
> > > > So mine has a higher sensitivity.
> > > >
> > > > Any idea what's wrong?
> > > >
> > > > What I want to do:
> > > > - s-meter alignment
> > > > - I.F. amplifier alignment
> > > > - (maybe band pass alignment)
> > > > - signal tracing receiver and synthesizer
> > > >
> > > > Kind regards
> > > >
> > > > Gerhard
> > > > DH3FAW
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
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> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.12.8/163 - Release Date:
11/8/2005
> >
> >
>






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[Elecraft] T1 and remote control - works just fine

2005-07-08 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi list!

Just these days I received my T1 kit and the next evening (abt. 4hrs) was
his. No problems while building though a little bit confused over the
picture showing the battery terminals for installation. First tests showed
it well functioning. The next day I tried several different antenna setups
with T1 and K1. Everything solved by the T1.

At the end I added a remote control switch plus cable for portable use. 10m
RG58 for RF and 10m RG174 for the remote function in parallel. Makes for a
nice setup!

Did QSOs on all 4 bands of my K1 with 10m vertical wire and 4 band-specific
radials.

Keep on building!


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
http://www.gs-personal.de






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[Elecraft] Zu verkaufen: KNB1

2005-06-09 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Elecraft KNB1 Bausatz zu verkaufen, da doppelt bestellt... Inventur ok.

39EUR inkl. Versand in Deutschland.

73

Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de






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[Elecraft] XV144 Overload test fails - Revisited

2005-06-08 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi again,

some news:

I am able to trigger the condition manually when hitting rb5 with gnd or
when hitting the base of q7 with 12v (via resistor of course).

But still:
Removing J8 results in relay clicking and the light going dark on my XV.
When I am reading the circiut diagram correctly then the test procedure is
not capable of triggering the condition because:
- J8 action results in power loss on k3 which switches the 12V line
- without power on 12V line the relay K8 can not pull the contact
- so J3 is not connected to the ODC

Where is my mistake? How can I test the circuit?

BTW: I set up the XV for single wire connection and a drive of max. 5W

Kind regards!


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


- Original Message -
From: "Gerhard Schwanz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 12:04 AM
Subject: XV144 Overload test fails


> Hi list!
>
> I thought I could do the last steps of my XV144. Heard my first 2m beacon
> today! And I have 20W output power.
>
> Everything is fine except: The overload test fails. It fails in a way that
> absolutely nothing is happening while performing the test.
>
> When removing the jumper J8 the XV144 sign goes dark. Then I set all
> transverter number switches to their off positions, removed the control
> cable and keyed the hf rig, a k2. No leds blinking.
>
> By the way: I use 5W max to drive the XV144. So the 1milliwatt rule does
not
> apply.
>
> Is there something obvious that I am missing?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Gerhard Schwanz
> DH3FAW
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.gs-personal.de
>






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[Elecraft] XV144 Overload test fails

2005-06-07 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi list!

I thought I could do the last steps of my XV144. Heard my first 2m beacon
today! And I have 20W output power.

Everything is fine except: The overload test fails. It fails in a way that
absolutely nothing is happening while performing the test.

When removing the jumper J8 the XV144 sign goes dark. Then I set all
transverter number switches to their off positions, removed the control
cable and keyed the hf rig, a k2. No leds blinking.

By the way: I use 5W max to drive the XV144. So the 1milliwatt rule does not
apply.

Is there something obvious that I am missing?

Thanks!


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de






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[Elecraft] K1 Problem with Power Out on 30/40m

2005-05-26 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi there,

I have a problem with my K1-4 on 30/40m. First I have to say that it was
working before and I don't know what happened.

Here is what I know:

- Power out on 15/20 is ok.
- Power out on 30/40 is 0.1W, probably less
- I am losing the signal between DRV (1.5Vpp) and PA (0.1Vpp). Measured with
Oscilloscope.
- To be precise the signal is present at the base of Q7, but is extremely
weak at the collector.

- I checked Relays K7 and K8 manually. They work.
- I checked T4. Ok.
- I have a dummy load attached. Measured 50Ohms.
- I checked L4-L6. 0Ohms.
- Of course I checked solder joints/bridges

What else can I do or check?

What could be the problem?

Thanks in advance!


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de






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[Elecraft] Antenna problem / phenomenon

2005-05-16 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi all,

I have a new set of mobile antennas, pro am series with magnet mount. Most
works just fine but I have one thing I don't understand. I have a K1 and a
K2 and while the K2 (without tuner enabled) shows an SWR of 2:1 on the 30m
antenna the K1 immediately reduces power to 0.1w and shows SWR 9.9. And
what's most stunning, the KAT1 can't even reduce this 9.9...

Any idea why and most important: what can I do?

Thanks!


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
http://www.gs-personal.de


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[Elecraft] K1, KAT1 and remote Tuner

2005-05-06 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi all,

I have a K1, ATU1 and a SGC-239 external tuner set up.

And now when SWR is bad for a non optimal antenna the K1 will drop power to
0.1W and will stay there. So the SGC will not tune because it needs 2-3W. I
tried ATU modes CALP and CALS.

I didn't find this power reduction and resolution mentioned in the manual.

So my question is: Is there a way to use external tuners that need more than
0.1W, namely 2-3W with non-resonant antennas? And if so, how?

73



Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


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[Elecraft] K2 SSB problem

2005-04-01 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi group!

I have a little problem with SSB it seems. During the contest last weekend
someone told me I had "frequency modulation" on my signal. Not knowing what
this should mean I at least thought I would check the signal when bands are
quieter. I just did. And although the audio sounds ok there is maybe a
little problem. Sending a 1kHz audio signal the receiving station could hear
the same signal at +1kHz and -1kHz with -20dB max. These signals should be
at least -40dB, correct?

Question. How do I fix this?

Thanks!



Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


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[Elecraft] K1 RIT Mod!!!

2005-03-04 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi again,

I just soldered a bit. Changing C7 is not to my satisfaction as it also
increased the tuning range considerably. So C2 or L1 would have to be
adjusted too.

After a more thorough search in the web I found out that changing R4 and R5
on the FPB has the same effect on the RIT range but leaves the tuning (VFO)
range as is.

I changed the 10k resistors to 56k which gives me about +/- 700Hz RIT.

I wonder why this simple method is not described in the manual... And I
wonder why the side effect of changing C7 is not mentioned either.

It would be nice to decide the RIT range during build time like the VFO
range.

Keep on building!


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


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[Elecraft] K1 RIT Mod???

2005-03-03 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi there,

I want my RIT to be +/-600Hz like in the K2. C7 has to be changed, to be
smaller, says the manual. But how much smaller? Any idea or do I have to
try?

Thanks


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de

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[Elecraft] K1 C62 and/or C63 missing

2005-02-22 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi,

just made the inventory for my new K1 and I am missing exactly 1 capacitor,
either C62 or C63.

Now I am wondering if I could substitute one of these with another value, if
they are not critical.

I have 240nF (241) "in stock". Will this one work in one of the places? Or
can I parallel it with a 82pF?

Thanks


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem still exists, but some new measurements

2005-02-04 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Well, um, yes.

And I noticed another thing which led me think everything is fine. The
voltage was there, even without power connected to the K2 at all.

All is well now, I neglected the voltage. I will go on air tomorrow for on
air tests. RS232 test is next now, then shield and final assembly.

And thanks to all who helped!!!


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


- Original Message -
From: "Mike Harris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Gerhard Schwanz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem still exists, but some new
measurements


> G'day,
>
> Did you have a light shining on the PA transistors?  J3+ on my KPA100
> had -0.18V.  Apparently something to do with illumination of the PA's.
> Well noted by others.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike VP8NO
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Gerhard Schwanz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 10:42 AM
> Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem still exists, but some new measurements
>
>
> Hi there,
>
> I'm still on page 43 in the process and I have now narrowed the problem
> area. You remember, I measured a negative voltage of 0.15V on J3+.
>
> Now: I removed Z1 and found the voltage measured at the collectors of Qs 1
> and 2 to be -0.4V (J3+ is ok now). I don't know where it could come from.
> Shorting the collectors to ground via 1k resistor it takes 3 seconds to
> eliminate the voltage. I measure 0V. Removing the resistor it takes abt.
> 20 seconds for the voltage to go to -0.4V again.
>
> T2-4,5 are ok. The base of the transistors are ok, 0V. The emitters also,
> 0V. The body of T2 also has -0.4V.
>
> Any idea and testing procedures appreciated!
>
> Kind regards
>
>
> Gerhard Schwanz
> DH3FAW
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.gs-personal.de
>
>
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[Elecraft] KPA100 Problem still exists, but some new measurements

2005-02-04 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi there,

I'm still on page 43 in the process and I have now narrowed the problem area. 
You remember, I measured a negative voltage of 0.15V on J3+.

Now: I removed Z1 and found the voltage measured at the collectors of Qs 1 and 
2 to be -0.4V (J3+ is ok now). I don't know where it could come from. Shorting 
the collectors to ground via 1k resistor it takes 3 seconds to eliminate the 
voltage. I measure 0V. Removing the resistor it takes abt. 20 seconds for the 
voltage to go to -0.4V again.

T2-4,5 are ok. The base of the transistors are ok, 0V. The emitters also, 0V. 
The body of T2 also has -0.4V.

Any idea and testing procedures appreciated!

Kind regards


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


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[Elecraft] KPA100 voltage measurements AGAIN

2005-02-01 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi there,

since my last thread has gone wild ;-) ... here comes a new one.

I just checked the PCB again for any visual problems
but didn't find any. And then I did the measurements again.

I now have -0.1 to -0.15V on J3+ (yes, MINUS). Still zero V at TP1.

Any idea how this voltage could get there? I don't dare to neglect this
reading and proceed with the building...

Using a 4.7k resistance I shorted J3+ to ground and almost immediately the
voltage rises to 0V. Taking it away results in a slow drop to abt -0.1V. It
looks like discharging/charging a capacitor.

Kind regards

>>>> Old message follows...

=20
Good morning,

I'm still in the process of building my kpa100. After
my learning process concerning soldering :-) I
stumbled upon some voltages.

I'm on page 43 in the manual now and got some numbers
a bit off the given values (PS is 14V).

D13 154V
U4 -27.4V
TP1 0V
J3+ 0.1V

Are these numbers ok? Especially the last two?

Another thing. The fan at this stage is a bit out of
control. Calibrating tPA helps, but the K2 seems to
not remember this setting. Also strange is that while
setting tPA a relay can be heard switching. But maybe
this is normal at this point in the process?

Kind regards and keep on building...

Gerhard
DH3FAW



Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


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Re: [Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB?

2005-01-28 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Don,

as allways - ? - you were right!

I increased the temp to 430deg C and here I go. (Didn't know my iron could
go beyond 400, I mostly use 300-330 without problem.) It still takes a bit
longer to solder but the hole fills smoothly.

Off the hook - the building can go on.

:-)

Regarding manual: I read the part with the needed iron but I understood the
high power is needed for power transistor installation and such... And since
everything else worked the way I did it before...

Thank you very much!


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


- Original Message -
From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Gerhard Schwanz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2005 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB?


> Gerhard,
>
> I have found the KPA100 is more difficult to solder than other Elecraft
> kits, but I believe it is bacause that  PC board uses thicker copper than
> the other kits and is especially noticable when soldering to a grounded
pad.
>
> I increase the temperature on my soldering station to 750 to 800 degrees
F.
> (400 to 430 degrees C.) and have no problem.  The KPA100 manual states
that
> a low wattage 800 degree F. soldering iron is required.
>
> Try increasing the temperature of your iron.  Judging by your photo, I can
> definitely state that your iron is not hot enough, and the pads that give
> you the most trouble are the ground points.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> - Original Message -
>
> I am just in the process of building my KPA100. And I discover more and
more
> solder points on the PCB where the solder is not accepted. Scraping the
pads
> a bit helps a bit but I don't think this is a solution.
>
> Some details. I don't know where in the process it started but right now
I'm
> on page 15 soldering the capacitors. And it's nearly every third hole that
> doesn't work. The solder sticks to the leads or the iron.
>
> I use the same iron and solder as with the other 10 PCBs of elecraft that
I
> have built.
>
> I contacted elecraft about this issue but I wanted to ask if others have
> this problem too? What can I do?
>
> 73
>
> Gerhard Schwanz
> DH3FAW
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.gs-personal.de
>
>
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>
>


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[Elecraft] Bad joints on KPA100 again - with photo...

2005-01-28 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi again,

just took a photo. You see it seems to affect only a special kind of hole (see 
picture). You can see on the picture that other holes work well. 

http://www.gs-roboter.de/problem.htm

Iron is temp regulated at 330 deg C. Same like before. I already changed iron 
and solder. To no avail.

73 again.



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[Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB?

2005-01-28 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hello!

I am just in the process of building my KPA100. And I discover more and more 
solder points on the PCB where the solder is not accepted. Scraping the pads a 
bit helps a bit but I don't think this is a solution.

Some details. I don't know where in the process it started but right now I'm on 
page 15 soldering the capacitors. And it's nearly every third hole that doesn't 
work. The solder sticks to the leads or the iron.

I use the same iron and solder as with the other 10 PCBs of elecraft that I 
have built.

I contacted elecraft about this issue but I wanted to ask if others have this 
problem too? What can I do?

73

Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


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[Elecraft] KAT100 Question and a word for packing...

2005-01-23 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi all,

just finished my KAT100 and wondered why the bottom cover didn't have to be 
scraped/sandpapered... Any idea?

Otherwise it's working fine as far as I can tell this early in its life :-) 
Next is a KPA100...

Regarding parts/inventory etc. I liked Christine's packs the most because they 
always contained everything they should! Often more.

73


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


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[Elecraft] Scan Problem

2004-12-12 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi,

just been active in the arrl 10m contest and used scan on 28Mhz. Suddenly the 
K2 changed band (to 24 and 14Mhz) in the middle of scan. And it continued to 
scan on the other band...

Any idea?

It's been the first time I used the KIO2, but - this shouldn't matter, should 
it?

Regards

Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


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[Elecraft] K2 #4309 on the air (finally)

2004-07-01 Thread Gerhard Schwanz

I finished the basic kit after 40 hours. Had no problem until it came to 
transmitter alignment. No output at all. After toroid checks and some signal 
tracing I discovered a broken D36 (fragile). A $8.75 and 6 days shipping 
experience :-)

Although there's documented that it's fragile builders maybe should be advised 
how to handle D36. Absolutely no force to the glass body would be a nice hint 
in the manual.

So I replaced the D36 with a 1N4007 for transmitter alignment and everything 
worked fine. Couldn't help but had to get in the air once - just to be sure. 
Worked Italy on 20m with 3m of wire connected to my KAT2, which I had built in 
the meantime.

Last weekend I added the Battery Option as well as the Noise Blanker and will 
test the whole kit next weekend. Another 10 hours including the KAT2.

Had a strange thing once. The filters misaligned themselves. The middle 
frequency suddenly was a few hundred hertz too high. I reran 4MHz, PLL, BFO and 
filter calibration/test and everything was fine again. Although I don't know 
what caused this problem. I hope it doesn't occur regularly in the future.

And: TX power decreases slowly when frequency rises. Only abt. 9W on 10m with 
14 on 20m.

So, this was my first kit - and will probably not be my last.

Thanks Eric and Wayne - and Scott for the D36!

73

Gerhard
DH3FAW
K2 #4309
www.gs-personal.de





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[Elecraft] K2 cw recording/playback problem

2004-06-26 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi,

just tried to record my first messages with my K2 #4309. Here's what happened:

I recorded with IAM A and B. Tried both! Speed 11wpm.

When playing back on VOX TEST I often hear a very short break between some dits 
and dahs (only between dits and dahs!) in between letters which definately have 
not been given. It's not long enough to be a space. Any idea how to solve this 
problem? Sounds like a cpu interrupt problem maybe...

73


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


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[Elecraft] K2 - no TX power problem

2004-06-24 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi,

I have a problem: No TX Out on my freshly assembled K2.

f = 7100
Vpwr = 5V
Valc = 7,5V
Power reading on LCD = 0.2W (desired 5W) 
Power consumption 440mA on 12,4V

At TP2 on transmit I get a nice signal on my oscilloscope, abt 0.005 Vrms

But behind TP2 the signal vanishes. All measurements are way too low, if 
present at all. At U10 Pin 4 there's only a short Jump to 5V and immediately 
back to 0 on keying. No HF detectable.

I unsoldered the Diode D36 and checked for resistance. Infinite in both 
directions. Does this mean what I think? This D is broken?

Do you need any more information?
What else could I check?

Thanks for any advice in advance!


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


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