Re: [Elecraft] Just Received my New KX3

[Gmail - George]

AMEN Lynn!
Download the Elecraft Utility for the KX3, KXP3 and KXPA100 if you haven't 
yet.
They are located at 
http://www.elecraft.com/software/elecraft_software_page.htm
The back-up configuration is in the Utility for each.

When you have time roam about in the Elecraft web site. You will need to 
learn how to download and install new firmware.
Elecraft updates the firmware from time to time. Both to improve it's 
operation (bug fixes) and better yet to add new features!

73  George  AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT
Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2016 12:35 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Just Received my New KX3

Before you do anything, back up the configuration, and save it in case
you need it in the future.

73 -- Lynn

On 3/18/2016 8:23 PM, TFJM via Elecraft wrote:
> My KX3 arrived today. My first new radio in over 35 years. What do I do 
> now
> besides stare at this technological little wonder. Just kidding. I'll dig
> into it tomorrow and figure it all out. I'm finally catching up with the
> current times. Looking forward to this new radio.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 pricing

[Gmail - George]

Maybe Elecraft can weigh-in about the "Burn-In Time" for the boards used in 
the kits.

I have all kits and suspect that my Elecrafts are actually as good as 
factory except they were assembled by a rank amateur (Elecraftwise).
I do know that I had no qualms about modify the filters or motherboard for 
the recent low freq operation; because I knew how to disassemble my K3.
If I ever have to trouble shoot any of the K-Line or KX3, I know where to 
look once I get the schematic out!
When I first went from Kenmore to Elecraft, the availability of the kit made 
it a know brainer to go to Elecraft.
The customer service and firmware & hardware updates have been the icing on 
my Elecraft cake.

73 George AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: Gee

I disagree that factory built value is nil. When I bought my K3 I was told 
factory builds went through a 24 hour burn in, and then checked for specs. 
That to me is value.

If a used item is 75% or more of new item pricing, the warranty alone 
decides for me to buy new.


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Re: [Elecraft] Slip on adapters on PL259s

[Gmail - George]

Bill,
We used the "slip-ons" to have quick reconfiguration of monitors on a live 
remote (TV) truck when we were still using UHF connectors for video.
We had no failures that I remember - remote live trucks live in a very 
hostile environment!

We used the UHF slip-ons until the conversion to BNCs beginning in the early 
70s

73
George   AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: bill

Here comes the flames:  I use slip on adapters on my PL259s that connect
my rigs/tuners/etc. to the outside world on my bulkhead. I have been
using this method for over 30 years and NEVER had a connector associated
failure. It allows for quick connect/disconnect when shutting down for
thunderstorm related issues. I use RG8X for all indoor coax duties and
run the KPA500 - so no power levels requiring heavier cable. I do snug
PL259s on equipment slightly with pliers.

Fact is, the only coax failure I have had of recent note, was the poor
quality patch cable between the P3 and K3. It was long ago replaced with
a Mil Spec cable from my junk box.

I do use a number of Daiwa 2-position coax switches for various
purposes. Any comments on coax switches?

Bill W2BLC K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] Should I worry about the toroids in the KXAT3 with vibration when carrying?

[Gmail - George]

Richard,
My KXAT3 goes down many unpaved gravel roads in the mountains of North 
Georgia and has for many years - since June 2012.
At times we joke that the roads are actually potholes inter-connected by 
short stretches of gravel pavement.
The KX3 lives in the cab of a Ranger pick-up mounted on a seat bolt mounted 
post.
Occasionally I have had to retighten the mount bolts but have not needed to 
repair anything in the radio.

73
George AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: Richard Corfield
> >
> > The toroids don't seem fastened down in any way. Cycling with it in my
> > pannier bag today over our rubbish roads I was a bit worried about it.
> > Could they shake loose given the vibration? Do I need to do anything to
> > protect them? (Though I note instruction requiring them to be movable
> > should I ever install the 2m module).
> >
> > Thanks
> > - Richard

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Re: [Elecraft] Linear thoughts

[Gmail - George]

I agree Dan,
Make a modification kit available to licensed operators and blessed by 
Elecraft.
Kit of parts w/pc board would be ok by me.
Maybe one with 2 inputs - one for K3 (100 watt rigs) and another for KX2 or 
KX3 (QRP) rigs.
Seems wasteful to feed the KPA500 with a KX3 + KPX100 to the input 
attenuator in the KPA500; unless the attenuator is needed for performance 
specs.
73
George
AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: Dan Baker

It would be very nice to have the ability to make a unauthorized, unofficial 
simple mod. Maybe call it the KX3 mod.
This mod would allow one to drive the amp to full output with a KX2 or KX3.

Dan KM6CQ

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Re: [Elecraft] Linear thoughts

[Gmail - George]

Her website.
Her copywrited paper is also available at:
http://www.oz6hq.dk/userfiles/downloads/kpa500%20mods.pdf
Shows details about her modification to add 2.5 db gain by eliminating the 
input attenuator and modifying the sensor circuit to keep the protection 
circuit - protecting.

Elecraft disavows modifying the KPA500 for stability and FCC rules violation 
by the manufacture reasons, at least while the silly 15 db rule is in 
effect.

Hopefully the FCC will get around to the elimination of the 15 db rule in 
the present NPR.

I believe my Harris analog TV PAs were in the 20 db gain region - apx 10 
watts in for a kilowatt out. I believe the digital PAs were lower gain to 
run as class A (or very close to class A).
>From the analog exciter output to IPA to PA to low-pass/filterplexer output 
it was from 250 mw to 30 kw. That would be over 50 db gain! And that system 
was type accepted.

73
George - AI4VZ


-Original Message- 
From: Bill Johnson

I went to his "website" and wound up downloading the famous, "your PC is 
infected, call Microsoft immediately"  message.  I did a hard shut down 
without clicking on any thing on the desktop, not infected. So be careful 
with this suggestion.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

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Re: [Elecraft] Was Amplifier - Now RF exposure limits

[Gmail - George]

Ed & Brian,
My father had severe health consequences from working in a classroom with 
operating military radars!

Since the adoption of OET 65 in the late 90s, all licensees (including Hams) 
have had the responsibility to insure their station is in complete 
compliance with RF exposure limit guidelines.

Most likely during your last license renewal or application for a new 
license, you checked a box stating you would insure compliance with 
non-ionization radiation limits.
Those guidelines are contained in bulletin OET 65.
For Hams OET 65 Supplement B 
(https://transition.fcc.gov/bureaus/oet/info/documents/bulletins/oet65/oet65b.pdf)
 
gives us some shortcuts to insure compliance without the tedious 
calculations. Many of the tables were provided by ARRL & the W5YI Group.

There are also calculators available on the internet to make it quite easy. 
Googleing "amateur radio oet 65 calculator" returned many to choose from.

The only caveat I will give is that most of the shortcuts and calculators 
are for a single transmitting antenna at a specific location. Multiple 
radiating antenna WILL change the protection distances - Field Day & group 
contesting come to mind!

Use to be we had to submit OET 65 compliance statements when licensing all 
transmitters for Broadcast Stations ranging from 150 MHz to 23 GHz. I 
believe we finally could use just a blanket cover statement ; but it has 
been a while since I licensed a non-Ham transmitter.

You do need to insure you are in compliance - to protect your family, 
friends, neighbors and yourself.

73
George
AI4VZ


From: brian

"Considered dangerous" isn't quite right.  The jury is out of the exact
danger levels of RF for all the various frequencies.  These distances
are more of an accepted limit that protects you from inquiries regarding
RF exposure.  Pointing to the distances being met helps get you off the
hook.

People will be surprised to see how small the distances these
calculations are-- especially at lower frequencies.

One note often overlooked. The distance is defined as the distance from
feedpoint (usually center) of the antenna.

Also the duty cycle can be considered in the calculation.  There are
stock duty cycles for SSB and CW given in the documentation.

Antenna gain may have to be included.

It used to be that anything at 100 watts and below at HF was exempted.
I believe that has changed.

73 de Brian/K3KO



On 4/7/2017 16:06 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
> In the USAmerica ham's now have the *responsibility* of determining the
> safe operating zones for each antenna per FCC regulation.  I doubt many
> ever do the calculation.  Fortunately Australian ham Doug MacArthur (sk)
> VK3UM (a well known eme'r) has written a program which you can download
> for free.  I will simulate the emf fields base on your input data like
> antenna, power, height, band and produces the legal exclusion zones
> where RF exposure is considered dangerous.
>
> http://www.vk3um.com/emr%20calculator.html
>
> Its not hard to use and provides some interesting if not surprising info
> about your station safety.
>
> As I already stated, it is the legal requirement for all US hams to have
> evaluated safe range for humans before operating.
>
> Eg:  half-wave dipole, 1400w, line loss 0.5 dB, 14.2 MHz: exclusion =
> 3.06m radially; safe height 2.60m for FCC.  Also provides ARPNSA and CEU
> radiation limits.
>
> 73, Ed - KL7uW

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 loss of rx signal

[Gmail - George]

Bill,
Try using a sharp soldering aid to "tighten" the female connector contact on 
the K3 & P3.
Pry the female center contacts inward just a bit.
73
George
AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: Bill Breeden
Sent: Friday, April 7, 2017 1:18 PM
To: Jim LeFevre
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 loss of rx signal


Jim,

I too had an issue with a couple of cables between my K3 and P3. Had to
wiggle the cable every few days to get rid of the extra noise on the
P3.  Finally replaced the cable with a 3 foot Amphenol BNC cable, part
number 115101-30-36.00 and have never had the issue again.  The cable is
made with LMR-100, which is skinny and flexible.  It's currently in
stock at Mouser for $18.66.

73,

Bill - NA5DX


On 4/7/2017 11:09 AM, Jim LeFevre wrote:
> I'm replying late to this subject as I've been out of town and have many 
> digests to go thru...speaking of Amphenol BNC's: I have had continuing 
> problems with the original cable to go from K3 to P3 from day one. Yes, 
> those great folks at Elecraft sent me a replacement cable gratis, but I 
> have to deal with this every time I'm on the radio. I've cleaned, tweaked 
> and replaced, and the display problems come back eventually. I'm shopping 
> for making my own, and want to use amphenol solder (clamp) style for 
> RG-58. I've boiled it down to 31-2 and 31-212 (not 31-212RFX). On the 
> technical drawings the pins are drawn as a different shape! I can't see 
> any other difference except for price. I plan on also cabling to the RX 
> ANT In. Several posts were made regarding this subject including a link to 
> the general amphenol BNC page, without sharing which specific part you 
> use. Could you please share the exact part you use and why? Thanks! Jim 
> WN8A

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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrading K3

[Gmail - George]

Christopher,
Many of us who have upgraded have extra old style synthesizers with no plans 
for them.

If the cost of upgrading your main synthesizer is stopping you from getting 
a sub-receiver, I and many others would be glad to loan or give you an old 
style one.

In the long run a sub-receive with new style synthesizers is the way to go; 
but maybe the budget would rather go in 2 steps rather than all at once.

The above assumes the new sub-receiver will operate with the old style 
synthesizer!

73
George
AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: Christopher Soames
... if this is the case do I then have too upgrade the existing with the new 
K3S
synthesiser card also?

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Fan Noise - YouTube ?

[Gmail - George]

One other thought to keep in mind - solid state amps need a lower delta T 
than tube amps. Tubes like to run hot - solid state devices not so much.

I've seen a tube with the fins so hot that the solder was in globs, while 
the transmitter was still operating. I doubt any solid state final would 
have survived that heat.

When we installed our solid state TV transmitter, it was a new learning 
curve in cooling. Both transmitters were 30 kW class AB1. The tube 
transmitter moved air faster through 3 tubes but had almost 3 times the 
temperature rise than the specs for the solid state transmitter. Our HVAC 
company and architect worked on several complex systems with air mixers 
until we just decided to use wall mounted air conditioners into the room 
behind the transmitter racks and exhausted to the front of the transmitters.

Our solid state transmitter did meet the OSHA limit for 8 hours exposure to 
noise but just barely. It was very noisy compared to the tube unit.

No tube transmitter I have ever used had a temperature shut down on any of 
the tube stages.

73 George AI4VZ



-Original Message- 
From: Don Wilhelm

Only one bit of correction.  If the output power is 1500 watts and the
efficiency is 50%, that 1500 watts is only half the total power
consumed, so there is 1500 watts of power that must be exhausted as heat.

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Re: [Elecraft] Amateur Radio Parity Act

[Gmail - George]

A differing view:
Having benefited greatly by the Telecommunications Act of 1996 in my former 
professional life, I doubt that the HOA, POA or COA (X owners associations) 
have been asleep at the wheel in dealing with antenna issues since then!

Senator Nelsen's defeat of this bill last year for Florida shows just how 
powerful the (?) Owners Associations lobbying can be.
My sense in reading the bill is that it may be the best compromise 
available. There had to been much mashing of teeth at ARRL for some of the 
wording.

If the bill becomes law then we need to be very pro-active with the FCC 
during the comment period. The implementing of the law is up to the FCC and 
the "devil is in the details" of that implementing. If you ever read the 
FCC's Telecommunications Act primer, the FCC left the Associations very 
little wiggle room. I doubt Amateur Radio can ever fare as well.

Hopefully Mr. Imlay at ARRL will keep us informed on that issue & how best 
to proceed.

73
George AI4VZ

Note that K1VR goes through this with a fine toothed comb, showing both
its inaccuracies and exposing serious problems with the Bill itself.
Although I have no legal training beyond the English language, I find
K1VR's analysis compelling.

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Re: [Elecraft] Lightening damage

[Gmail - George]

Rich,
Even massive grounding systems do not keep a tower from being hit! It only 
mitigates the damage.

I was CE of a TV station in South Florida with towers of 1,000' a couple at 
500' and several more at 100' to 200'. They all got hit at one time or 
other. Sometimes many times a year.
We used massive grounding systems with the tall towers. The towers we rented 
or on buildings - we had to take what we got. Some were excellent some were 
non-existent.

We operated 24/7 since 1955. We did have redundant equipment. We had two-way 
antennas as high as 900', microwaves from 100' to 950'. Tower cameras as 
well. The ENG receive sites (at 950' & 500') had very sensitive LNAs at 2, 7 
& 13 GHZ. as well as the pan/tilt steering electronics and drive systems. 
When possible we did not put electronics on the tower; because of the surge 
current of a direct strike.
A small (tiny?) strike will have over a thousand amp current surge. If the 
steel tower has a 0.1 ohm resistance, then the top of the tower is 100 volts 
above the bottom. Any electronics at the top that is connected at the bottom 
can have that potential on the equipment case (a DC ground loop  so to 
speak) of 100 volts. Most times it is much higher.

The least affected equipment were the microwave transmitters and receivers 
that used waveguide. The signal up and down the waveguide is transmitted 
rather then conducted.

We felt that the best money we spent to mitigate lightning damage were 
dissipation arrays on all of our towers higher than surrounding structures. 
Over a 10 year period our lightning damage costs were reduced significantly 
over the 10 year period prior to that installation. It seems that 
dissipation arrays are in dispute at this time.
It goes to the old adage - that just because you put out elephant repellent 
and then see no elephants still does not mean the elephant repellant works!

My 40 years experience in South Florida as a Broadcast Engineer has taught 
me that you will find the weakest links in your plant's structure and make 
them less vulnerable but never be completely immune to lightning damage 
unless you eliminate all conductors of electricity. Fiber interconnections 
between studios and towers really helped us reduce the losses.

73
George   AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: Richard Fjeld
... Certain radio and TV services need to operate 24/7 and can't shut down 
when lightening threatens.  Their grounding methods apparently prevent the 
towers from being hit .

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] BNC connector oddity on KX3

[Gmail - George]

Ken & Rich,
As a broadcaster, we used hundreds even thousands of BNC video cables - they 
are no more finicky then another RF coax cable until you get to hard line or 
Helix (which are bullet proof in N, UHF or EIA).

Unless the cable has an improperly installed connector or the cable is 
damaged, then and the BNC connection becomes intermittent it is usually 
because the female has become spread out. The solution is to just tighten it 
with a fine pick. We used solder picks but a dental pick is even better or a 
small pocket knife.

I had that problem with my P3 using the factory cable. Elecraft replaced the 
cable. Then replacement cable became intermittent. I tightened the female 
pins. Haven't had an issue since. My P3 was ordered as soon as the P3-kit 
was announced. I should have remembered the issue before bothering Elecraft.

Long ago - when we first started using BNC connectors instead of PL259 for 
video we discovered the hard way that you should not intermix 50 ohm & 75 
ohm BNC male connectors in the plant. Prior to that time we only used BNC 
for RF; so our connectors were 50 ohm. We had ended up with both types in 
the BNC bin.
We weren't the only station to trouble shoot this issue. It was a problem we 
discovered along with many other engineering departments.

The good news is that the male center pin on BNC cables have been 
standardized to eliminate the issue; but cable assemblies with the smaller 
center pin are still out there.
We had a home made gauge that we used when we changed brands or part numbers 
ordering BNC male connectors just to be sure.

73
George  AI4VZ



-Original Message- 
From: rich hurd WC3T
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2018 12:51 PM
To: Ken G Kopp
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] BNC connector oddity on KX3

Well, if I did, then it's been placed into quarantine now.   :)
> Rich ...
>
> Any chance you have one or more 72 ohm BNC connectors and/or adapters?
>
> They -are- different than 50 ohm ones.
>
> 73!
>
> Ken Kopp - K0PP

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Re: [Elecraft] Silent power supply for a K3s

[Gmail - George]

Astron has an Over-Voltage protection option that is an add-on accessory.

In the past it was an option or included on some models.
If the regulation series transistor shorts or the regulation circuits 
malfunctions, then the over-voltage protection shorts the output and blows 
the fuse(s).

My present RS-35M included it in the purchase.
Since the late 70s or early 80s, I have used various current rated Astrons 
in both 12 and 24 volts with few if any issues except when Florida Flash & 
Flicker passed an EMP or such down the line!

BTW - Never have heard it and it is well over 10 years old.

George  AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: Charlie T
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2019 7:57 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Silent power supply for a K3s

Any supply that is regulated, whether a switching or linear regulator
circuit is used, has the potential to "take-out" the radio because if the
regulating circuit fails, the un-regulated voltage which is normally
significantly higher than the regulated voltage will be applied to the
radio. In a 12 - 14 V supply, this could very well damage anything it is
connected to, from a simple 12V light bulb to your fancy new SS radio.

That said, many good quality commercial power supplies have what is called a
"crow-bar" circuit which is essentially a big SCR across the supply's
output, with its gate driven by a voltage sensing circuit set a level
slightly higher than the supply's normal output, say 16V. The action is if
the regulator fails, the sensing circuit fires the SCR, which is hopefully
big enough to effectively short the power supply's output and ether trigger
a fold-back current limiting * circuit, or blow a fuse.


73, Charlie k3ICH

*Unfortunately, in many supplies, the current limiter AND voltage regulator
use the same active device, so in a fault situation, blowing the fuse is the
last resort to a safe shut down.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Bert
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2019 12:16 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Silent power supply for a K3s

How would a switched PS take out a radio?

Bert VE3NR



On 6/9/2019 11:40 PM, Jim - N4ST wrote:
> I don't know how common it is, but eHam lists several failures of the
> MFJ-4230MV supply that took out the rig attached to it.
> Looking at the reviews they are pretty much a 5 (love it) or a 0 (it
> smoked my rig when it failed).
>
> 
> 73,
> Jim - N4ST
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
>  On Behalf Of Richard Zalewski
> Sent: Sunday, June 9, 2019 19:53
> To: Leroy Buller 
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Silent power supply for a K3s
>
> I did two of the Samlex and returned them both.  The fan problem drove
> me crazy.  I replaced it with a MFJ-4230MV and love it.  Quiet cool
> and good metering.
>
> Richard
> *W7ZR* ex:5C5Z, CN2ZR, K2JSP, W6SBZ, W7KXR, K9ZIJ, W9KNF, W0KDF,
> W0MQU, J68ZR, KC6ZR, PJ4/W7ZR, KH2,W7ZR, KH6/W7ZR, V31ZR, VK4AAZ,
> XE2DV
>
>
> *Be joyful in hope, patient in affliction, faithful in prayer*
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT a bit: K3 Ant Tuner

[Gmail - George]

-Original Message- 
From: Jack Brindle via Elecraft 

...

Now having said this, the ATU can also be bypassed in the K3, and that circuit 
may provide a proper 50 ohm source/load for the BPF. I would probably take this 
approach myself (and in fact do so in my station). The reason I take this 
approach is to avoid the small loss that the internal ATU presents. In 
contesting, every db matters.

Note that we are talking nits at this point. Unless the ATU was tuned for a 
load quite a bit off 50 ohms resistive, (quite possible), then retuning won’t 
make much difference. Perhaps the op had this situation, and thought it better 
to return the ATU than to bypass it, or he didn’t even think to bypass it. The 
point is, both methods will work, and I doubt he did anything wrong it 
performing the tune.


Jack,
If I'm not mistaken - the KAT3 is not able to be physically  bypassed in a K3 - 
don't know in a K3S; but I thought the KAT3A  did a physical bypass. 
My understanding is that when you bypass the ATU (KAT3), it is merely being set 
to a value that cancels the internal L & C of the board.
I would think a tune would not actually actually change much of anything; but 
leave it to someone to actually test the true output impedance in both.

73
George AI4VZ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S K-line cabling

[Gmail - George]

Jack,
Don't use a 15 pin straight through - not all pins are to be connected. My 
recollection is that 1 or 2 pins Must Not be connected to the K3!
Use the manual if not using the Elecraft Aux cable sets.

Because not all VGA cables are the same - you can use a VGA cable if you 
positively confirm that all 15 conductors pass through and No conductor is 
hooked to each other.
Some VGA cables tie the coax shields together at one or both ends - these 
cables should not be used. I had a half dozen VGA cables - the second cable 
I checked was one to one with no pins shorted together. I broke off the 
pin(s) not to be connected and voilà free cable from the junk shelf.

If in doubt - buy the Elecraft cables or make your own from the information 
in the Elecraft instruction books.

I recommend using the Aux cable sets to interconnect the K3, KPA500 & 
KAT500. The seem to operate as a single unit in 3 boxes.
Only thing I'd love to see is for the K3 "Tune" button to put the KPA500 in 
Stby & Tune the KAT500.

73
George AI4VZ




-Original Message- 
From: Jack Brindle via Elecraft

Hi David! Great to hear form you...

 . . .

Lastly, be sure to use a cable with all 15 pins connected straight through. 
Do NOT use a VGA cable. They play with the signals in those cables, 
connecting several together, which will mess things up for us.

Hope you are enjoying CQWW this weekend; we miss you in NCCC!

73!
jack, W6FB



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Re: [Elecraft] RFI issues

[Gmail - George]

Andreas,
You might want to go to the station and talk the the Chief Engineer. If he 
is the nice-guygal type CE he will help you (Not al CEs are the nice kind 
but most are).

I'd suggest that he/she cycle the two transmitters on/off while you are at 
your station. He/She won't do that during the early news but might at 2 or 3 
AM. It is worth a try.


Long ago - I had the opposite issue when ham transmitters interfered with TV 
receivers. Some people call the TV station to resolve the issue. Most of the 
time it came down to who was going to buy the filter. At any given time we 
probably had 10 filters on the shelf.

One point - TV (especially UHF) antennas tend to fairly high gain. The 
pattern tends to be omnidirectional horizontally. The gain is in the 
vertical plane. Much of the transmitted power is well above 10° (probably 
much higher). The FM antenna gain depends on the size transmitter. Usually 
they tend to use lower gain than TV antennas.

In a spectrum analyzer - the digital TV looks like high power noise. The 
signal should square corners on both ends of the occupied spectrum.

73
George  AI4VZ



-Original Message- 
From: Andreas Wachter via Elecraft
I live about 1.6 miles from some tall antenna towers broadcasting digital TV 
(KBCB) at 208 kW ERP on channel 19 (500 - 506 MHz) and on FM (KWPZ-FM) at 63 
kW ERP on 106.5MHz - according to FCC info on KBCB and KWPZ-FM. Ever since I 
moved to this QTH a few months ago, I am unable to use my K3: solid S9+ 
noise on all bands using a makeshift dipole strung up on some trees outside 
my house. I’ve tried to locate the source of the RFI within my home but so 
far have been unable to locate any RFI emanating from within my home. Could 
it be that the TV/FM stations antenna towers, which are within direct line 
of sight from my house, might be responsible for the RFI?

73, Andreas

K6AKW

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Goodness and questions

[Gmail - George]

I have 24xx K3. It did need the mod. Actually put in when I had a LP 
pan-adapter before the P3.
The mod is changing one resistor. R8 from 1k to 13k. I used a 1/4 watt only 
because I do not stock 1/8 watt.

On the Elecraft web site K3IOBUFFKT - IF Output Buffer Gain Modification is 
the kit for $5.
https://elecraft.com/pages/k3-enhancements-and-mods-and-tech-alerts

The instructions are 
https://ftp.elecraft.com/K3/Mod%20Notes%20Alerts/IF_Output_Buffer_Gain_Mod_Rev_A.pdf
The mod sheet says all K3 shipped after September 2009 have this mod.

Hopes that helps a bit

73
George Danner




-Original Message- 
From: ae...@carolinaheli.com
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2020 10:00 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] P3 Goodness and questions

I recently obtained a P3 and I'm and exceedingly happy! Now that I own it I
feel bad that I wasted a few years trying other solutions that introduced
noise and undue complexity into my station.

Just a few notes and questions because the manual is helpful but I don't
fully understand what I'm reading yet.



1. When using QSY the P3 unit often slides. How do most of you prevent
the unit from sliding?
2. The signal/noise floor jumps a lot and I'm not sure if that's due to
local interference or something in my setup. Based on reading I likely need
to noise troubleshoot/filter my station. I don't see an AGC setting for the
P3. Any suggestions?
3. What serial number requires the mod? My serial is 3251
4. I need a serial port screw stud - can I buy that from Elecraft when
I purchase a cable + vga card?
5. Is there a quick setup cheat-sheet anyone has for the P3?



Thanks in advance





Jerry Moore

AE4PB



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Re: [Elecraft] [PX3][PX3HDMI][P3] PX3 to HDMI Large Screen; and Decoded Text to Native P3 Screen

[Gmail - George]

Joe,
A vote for neither! Actually to be fair to others - a vote to keep them as a 
low priority.
But:
Would love to see TX-Mon on SVGA - but also low priority. I have rearranged 
my shack to have P3 back in front of me.
Also would like TX-MON to have audio spectrum display as a selectable 
option.

73
George
AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: Joe Stone (KF5WBO)
I've attempted to fold in the feedback thus far.  If you haven't already,
please reply to this thread if you're interested in one or both of these new
features.
PX3 TO LARGE SCREEN
DECODED / TRANSMITTED TEXT TO NATIVE P3 SCREEN

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Re: [Elecraft] Mobile Radio Dreams

[Gmail - George]

Bill,
I use a KX3 with the KXPA mounted on the lid of the cargo box in the pick-up 
bed. Antenna is mounted on the other side of the lid.
The "separation" cable works perfectly.
My KX3 is mounded to a pole from the passenger seat bolt just above the 
center consol. I find this location ok, but do not tune while driving.
I agree that a P3 would force my curiosity away from the road!

My system seems to work well, although I do need the noise blanker & noise 
reduction on a 10 mile stretch of road going to town - I assume it is a 
power line issue.

Maybe the KX2 would be a better choice; but it wasn't out when I bought my 
KX3.
73
George
AI4VZ


-Original Message- 
From: Bill Frantz

A few weeks ago I passed a car with the license WA6HHQ and it
got me to thinking: What if Elecraft made a radio specifically
designed as a mobile radio? Here are some of my ideas:

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Re: [Elecraft] best agc setting for the k3s

[Gmail - George]

Noel,
This subject is well discussed on this reflector from time to time.

I suggest starting with the discussion on Don's (W3FPR) web site - 
http://www.w3fpr.com/.
Go to the "Noisy K3? - Adjust your AGC Settings" section. That paper has a 
very good explanations of the K3 AGC system operation.

For a discussion of each control with suggested values and why beyond the 
Elecraft Operators Manual.
http://www.ve1zac.com/Jeff%20Smith%20K3%20AGC%20R1.pdf

You can chase your tail until you understand the settings and how they 
interact.
Go to Fred's (KE7F) "K3 AGC Story" sections at http://www.ke7x.com/home.
Fred has written tutorials on deciphering the Elecraft manuals with step by 
step instructions.
I do not have any of his books; however they get very good reviews on this 
reflector!

Personally - I refer to the transfer graphs. That helped me understand the 
AGC operation on my K3 & KX3.
http://www.ke7x.com/home/miscellaneous-k3-information/agc-4-51.  I have a 
laminated copy of this graph in my operating desk!
Also refer to these as well.
http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/elecraft_k3_agc_and_s-meter.htm.

The Elecraft AGC system allows you a large room for adjustment to allow 
different modes of operation and preferences.
Unfortunately this also means that there is a learning curve to get it "Your 
Way"!
"Your Way" may change depending on the mode and band conditions.

Hopes this helps a little.
73
George
AI4VZ

- 
From: NOEL POULIN

Hi,
I am a new owner of a K3S.
I would like to know the best AGC SETTINGS  for the K3S
I mean  AGC DCY, AGC HLD, AGC PLS, AGC SLP,AGC THR.
I am not very satisfied with the default setting...

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Re: [Elecraft] Voltage drop in DX Power to K3

[Gmail - George]

A couple of solutions used in TV Broadcasting, especially in ENG & Satellite 
mobile units.

1) Use a short jumper from the large conductor the the connector. I solder 
the 2 wires together (inline) and cover the connection with shrink tubing.
This helps when you want flexibility between the large connector and the 
equipment (think mobile vibration).
2)If the large conductor is stranded then remove strands until it fits the 
connector.

Another solutions would be to keep what you have and remote the power supply 
sense to the destination.
The advantage of this solution is that you have a large voltage swing with a 
varying load.
The disadvantage is the power supply has to be capable of supplying all the 
current needed at maximum load and the time constant has to be considerable 
shorter than the load variation time constant.
Another disadvantage is that any other equipment on the power supply line 
will "see" a varying power supply.
This solution is used in many different pieces of equipment in broadcasting.

73
George AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: David Herring
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2020 11:08 AM
To: N4ZR
Cc: Elecraft List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Voltage drop in DX Power to K3

I’m late in coming to this thread, so sorry if I missed the answer to this 
question, but what is the voltage drop between the power supply and the 
4005i?

73, David N5DCH

> On Apr 26, 2020, at 8:46 AM, N4ZR  wrote:
>
> I've had an e-mail exchange with West Mountain Radio.  Measured the 
> voltage drop inside the 4005i at only .08 volts at 100 watts key down.  My 
> power cable from the 4500i to the K3 measures 0.3 ohms on each conductor, 
> which at 20 amps should only yield a 1.2 volt drop, right?  I don't know 
> where the other volt plus of drop is coming from.  The cable is 40 inches 
> long, and only minor shortening is possible.  It is about the largest wire 
> that will fit in the Powerpoles on both the K3 and the 4005i.
>
> Suggestions welcome
>
> -- 
> 73, Pete N4ZR
> Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
> at , now
> spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
> For spots, please use your favorite
> "retail" DX cluster.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: The Colpitts mystery

[Gmail - George]

It was on the 2nd phone as well!
Not sure if it was one I had to draw or just identify.

My recollection is that the 2nd phone was much much harder than the present 
Extra.
My commercial licenses were 1959. My Ham license is 2007.

73
George AI4VZ



-Original Message- 
From: Fred Jensen
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 2:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: The Colpitts mystery

What was it with the FCC and the Colpitts oscillator schematic on the
exams in the 50's/early 60's?  It was on my General ['54] and Extra
['56] exams, and practically everyone else I've asked says it was on
theirs too.  There are other oscillator circuits of the day.  Colpitts
uses capacitive feedback which is somewhat more stable than a Hartley
with its "Tickler Coil," but the FCC seemed fixated on the Colpitts for
some reason.  The schematic and operation of a dual-triode 1-shot was
also popular.

73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 4/26/2020 7:28 PM, N4ZR wrote:
> As for the licensing tests, did you have to draw a Colpitts
> oscillator? IIRC, that was on my General exam in 1955.

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Re: [Elecraft] Mail for Windows 10

[Gmail - George]

Works from Windows Live Mail

73
George AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: Brian Denley 

Test

Brian  KB1VBF

Sent from Mail for Windows 10



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Re: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500

[Gmail - George]

Paula Keezer NX1P modified a KPA500 to allow it to be driven to about 500 
watts by a KX3.
She published it - but I can not find it on the web.
The mod increased the gain by less than 3 db (seems I recall 2.something). 
You would need the 12 to 15 watts to drive it to about 500 watts.

The modification involved removing the input pad and modifying the feed back 
loop to the microprocessor.
I thought about doing the mod to be able to run a net with my KX3 if my K3 
quit.
I have a KXPA and decided not to do the modification.
I can just remove my KX3 & KXPA from my truck if I ever need a backup to 
drive the KPA500. Probably 10 minutes work and find the bag of portable 
cables.

BTW - Ms. Keezer's modification was very detailed and she had many cautions 
regarding doing the modification.
It defiantly was not a matter of "cutting a jumper" to remove the input pad. 
You need remove the pad parts and change the number of turns in a 
transformer.

Defiantly would void the warranty and make factory repairs iffy depending on 
Elecraft's policies.
Other manufacturers  I have worked with would restore the amp to factory 
while repairing it.

As a ham you are not limited to the 15 db gain restriction - the 
manufacturer is but not you.

73
George AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: Charlie T
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2020 9:06 AM
To: 'Nr4c'
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500

Isn't there some sort of "jumper" or ???, that will increase the gain to 
something other than the ridiculous and prohibitive +13 dB figure,  for 
"international" (wink-wink) sales, sorta like the "MARS" mod in almost all 
radios these days?

99.9% of the chicken band users today are happy with their 5 watt radios.
However, that restrictive and useless  +13 gain law does NOTHING to stop the 
REALLY big guns on 27.025 who typically run amps using tubes that have 
HANDLES on them!
(I've personally seen channel 6 mobile set-ups running power in excess of 25 
kilowatts.)

73, Charlie k3ICH




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Nr4c
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2020 3:14 PM
To: Paul Gacek 
Cc: Don Putnick ; Elecraft Reflector 

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500

The KAT500 has three antenna out ports. It only needs one In so the KPA500 
needs only one out port.

As for the 10 W in and 500 out idea.  That is prohibited by law. They’re 
only allowed to sell an amp with max gain of 13dB.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill



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Re: [Elecraft] Waterproof SO-239 covers

[Gmail - George]

Years ago in a land far-far away all video coax connectors in Broadcast 
Television were UHF (PL259).
We only tightened them hand (finger) tight. In may places pliers would have 
not fit any way.

In black & white days we would want to be flat from DC to around 8 MHz with 
a smooth roll off to about 15 MHz.
Later in color most of the video distribution amplifiers were flat to even 
25 MHz.

>From the late 60s to late 70s the connector density increased significantly 
and we went to BNC for video & later for even audio when we converted to 
digital audio distribution.

In a typical studio plant any discontinuity in video coax tended to show up 
as a "ghost" in the video in black & white and in color the results could be 
only described as Technicolor gone wrong. We rarely had discontinuities - 
most of the time it was a poorly made connector or center migration due to 
too tight a bent in the coax. I don't ever recall that tightening a 
connector with pliers corrected these discontinuities. We solved the poorly 
made connectors by going to crimp style of connectors.

When I became a Ham after retiring from Broadcasting - I had to go back to 
using UHF connectors. First tool I bought was a coax connector crimp tool! 
Unfortunately I could not afford the $300 to $500 tools for each coax size 
that we had at work. I had to buy a much less expensive tool with 
replaceable dies. Not quite as convenient & easy to use but much more cost 
effective! Then again I wasn't going to be spending hours putting coax 
connectors on cables.

A broadcast plant had many hundreds and probably thousands of uhf coax 
connectors to deal with and a lot of experience in all conditions from fully 
climate controlled (tape rooms) to harsh outdoors on ENG or SNG truck masts 
going 60 or 70 MPH in rain, sleet and snow.
In fact when we replaced a 1,000' tower. We cut off the coax seal on 
connectors that were maybe 20 or 30 years old - the connectors were bright 
and shinny underneath!

Proper installation of the UHF connector is to make sure it is made 
properly, and then properly mated by rotating the coax until the tiny 
indentations on the female are found and mated with the male. Then tighten 
it hand tight. If not indoors then seal the connection.

73
George AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: Mike Harris via Elecraft

I must say that over many years and without any ill effect I've never
bought into this idea of Gorilering up a PL259 with pliers beyond finger
tight. A quarter of a turn is an unbelievable suggestion.
...
Regards,

Mike VP8NO


>...
>
> Don't forget to tighten the connector 1/4 turn after "finger tight" with
> a pair of pliers to make a real seal.
>
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane 

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