Re: [Elecraft] K3 - 'High Isolation Headphones'

2010-03-03 Thread ng3v


Hey Art, 



Do you have a source of the Sennheiser phones for $30?  Cheapest I can find is 
more than 50. 



Thanks, 



Tom, ng3v 




- Original Message - 
From: Art K6XT k...@arrl.net 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, March 3, 2010 12:47:54 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - 'High Isolation Headphones' 

I was using a Heil Proset noise cancelling. These headphones cancel just 
about everything. Amp noise, XYL, doors, barking dogsyou name it. 
But. After a couple hours or so my floppy ears start to notice they're 
being compressed into my skull. Ditto my Sennheiser HD400 headset except 
these are much lighter so it takes a bit longer to get that squeezed 
feeling. 

Seeking a solution I tried Sennheiser CX300-2 button phones, about $30. 
That is the solution for long term use! Noise blocking is excellent, 
just behind the ProSet. No squeezed ears. Excellent audio quality. 
They're a bit more sensitive than either headset so I turned the K3 to 
low audio. I also reduced the max audio clipping level in the K3. What a 
difference! Should have done this 30 years ago. 

73 Art 
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Re: [Elecraft] Droid

2009-12-03 Thread NG3V
I owned 2 for about a week.  Super WOW factor.  And, during that time I
downloaded a ton of free apps which were really neat and a lot of fun.  But
in the end, I confirmed that the battery life sucks.  I mean - really sucks.
A couple of hours just goofing off with the thing ran the battery down, and
yes, I did condition it like the book said to, so the capacity just isn't
what it should be.

In the end the real reason I took them back was that the phone just wasn't
as easy to use as a phone should be.  Too much other stuff and not enough
phone.

HOWEVER, if someone had sent this message to me before I got them, I would
just disregard it.  SO. What I recommend is that you get a free trial
(Verizon offers 30 days with a no-questions-asked return policy).  Then,
make up your own mind.

HTH,

Tom, ng3v

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dan Copeland
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 9:33 PM
To: 'Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft'
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Droid

I am also looking at the Droid. I am planning on buying 4 of them for
Christmas
For the family. What do you think of it so far?

Thanks

Dan N0DT

Top posting is the official standard for this list, and its especially 
important for those of us who also read our email on PDA phones. (I'm 
using the new Motorola Droid..) Reading the response first, at the top, 
is a hige time saver.


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Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please

2009-09-01 Thread NG3V
Well, I guess I need some advice here as well.

I had not considered the problem of different grounds.  I am building a
house, now, where the electrical wiring will come in at one end of the house
while my radio room is 70 feet away, at the other end.  I had planned on a
separate grounding system at the radio room.

Would it be best to connect the two grounds?  If so, how would be the best
way to do that?

Or, should I have the electrical wiring come in at the same end of the house
as the radio room, thus eliminating two separate grounds?

Thanks,

Tom

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 4:32 PM
To: 'Peter N. Spotts'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you
please

Good story Pete, and a reminder that it doesn't take too many mA of current
to send you flying across the room (or into your grave). Even a bad ground
provides plenty of lethal current at mains voltage.

When I have a shop setup in a basement, garage or anywhere with a floor like
that I make sure the outlets are GFI protected. It's cheap insurance.

Over the past 30 years  we've moved back to the electrical equipment designs
of the 1940's and 50's in which safety is accomplished through insulation
rather than through a grounded enclosure. The fact that few modern tools or
appliances have 3 wire plugs testifies to this approach. Such equipment is
(apparently) very safe. (Safer than many of the old AC/DC radios, etc., of
the 40's and 50's  - especially after us young Hams unknowingly compromised
the insulation by taking a knob off exposing a bare control shaft or leaving
insulators out from under the chassis). 

But the reliance on insulation rather than grounding for safety seems to be
bringing us back many unsafely grounded outlets. It's now very common to
have even brand new construction, signed off by all the appropriate
inspectors, turn up reversed wired outlets and missing grounds. 

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
 
snip

Many thanks to all! My original question was prompted by an experience
I had as a teenager visiting my uncle in the mid 1960s (oops, the gray
hairs are showing). I was working in his garage, using a metal-housed
electric drill in bare feet on a dry concrete floor. (No cracks about
natural selection at work, please!).

I got a jolt about 2 volts shy of a hairstyle by Boston Edison!
(Although this was in a St. Louis suburb.) So that's what led me to
wonder if an anchor bolt embedded in concrete would constitute a
sufficient ground. It sure seemed to for that drill!

Thanks again for the helpful advice!

With best regards,

Pete


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: CQ WWII naval radio ops

2009-08-13 Thread NG3V
When I first joined the navy in 1961 it was as a radioman (I got a
meritorious promotion out of boot camp because of my amateur license).  

We copied code on old CAP only manual (superfluous) typewriters we called
mills.  Anything much beyond 20 was a challenge to get right, and the 5
character groups were what we copied.  There was nothing intuitive about
them that we routinely use to copy in our heads.  And, since they were
encoded, they had to be letter perfect. 

I think 35 - 40 wpm of 5 letter groups, hand typed, is doable, and I suspect
a lot of operators could do that, but it would wear most radiomen out pretty
quickly.

Tom

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 3:58 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: CQ WWII naval radio ops

Earlier this week, on our drive back from Nova Scotia, my wife and I
stopped by Battleship Cove in Massachusetts where I was entranced by
Radio Central on the USS Massachusetts.

They had a mock recording of CW going, mostly 5 letter word groups.
It was going around 16 wpm and I wondered if that was a typical speed
or not.  Some guy walked by who had something to do with the ship's
display and said that his friend from then could go the fastest in
the world...around 35 or even 40 wpm.  Well, some of us do that in
our sleep, so that couldn't be right.

What speed was typical for back then?

If you get the chance, stop by this exhibit (battleship, PT boats,
submarine, etc.). We had planned on an hour or so, but spend nearly 5
on just the USS Massachusetts.  I got some great shots of the rigs too
- can even see the crackle paint finish!

Thanks,
de Doug KR2Q

PS:  http://www.battleshipcove.com/index.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Adieu redux

2009-07-26 Thread NG3V
To those who responded on and off list - thanks for taking the time.

I almost certainly will return to the fold in the future (and probably not
too distant future).  Retirement looms overhead (less than a year, now) and
the thought of weeks full of Saturdays inspires one to think of fun ways to
fill the time.  I had a lot of fun building and playing with the K2 and will
no doubt return to that.  Probably in the KX series for backyard amusement
and boating on the lake.

To those not familiar with the Doug Adams reference, feel assured that it
was meant to thank everyone for the kindness and help.

73,

Tom, NG3V

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of NG3V
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2009 6:55 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Adieu

It is with mixed emotions I bid the reflector a fond farewell.

 

For the past 4 years you have entertained my questions and provided
insightful answers and suggestions.

 

The K# community is unique in the world of amateur radio today.  No where is
so much help and inspiration available for free - in the true amateur
spirit.

 

I must admit, parting with 4991 was not as easy as I thought, but I know it
will prosper in its new home.

 

Alas, I have been co-opted by the dark forces and have once again ventured
into the realm of the rice box.

 

Perhaps there is a K# in my future - who knows?  I do know one thing, for
sure, you will take me back with nary a snicker.

 

73 and thanks for all the fish,

 

Tom, NG3V 

 

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[Elecraft] Adieu

2009-07-25 Thread NG3V
It is with mixed emotions I bid the reflector a fond farewell.

 

For the past 4 years you have entertained my questions and provided
insightful answers and suggestions.

 

The K# community is unique in the world of amateur radio today.  No where is
so much help and inspiration available for free - in the true amateur
spirit.

 

I must admit, parting with 4991 was not as easy as I thought, but I know it
will prosper in its new home.

 

Alas, I have been co-opted by the dark forces and have once again ventured
into the realm of the rice box.

 

Perhaps there is a K# in my future - who knows?  I do know one thing, for
sure, you will take me back with nary a snicker.

 

73 and thanks for all the fish,

 

Tom, NG3V 

 

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[Elecraft] Heil MD2 plug pin out

2009-07-23 Thread NG3V
Hello group,

 

Does anyone out there have the factory original pin-out for the Heil MD2
microphone.  I cannot find any documentation supplied with the microphone
that actually listed the wires (by color coming from the mic head) to the
various pins on the 8-pin connector.

 

I would very much appreciate knowing which wires go where.  Of particular
interest are wire colors for audio, PTT, DC+ and their associated grounds.

 

Thanks, es 73

 

Tom

n...@comcast.net

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 FS

2009-07-22 Thread NG3V
Entire rig spoken for.

Thanks es 73,

Tom, ng3v

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of NG3V
Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2009 3:54 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 FS

I have decided to go in a new direction for a while, and am posting my
K2-100 (Serial 4991) For Sale:

 

K2

KAT2

KPA100

KAT100-1

KSB2

KDSP2

KIO2

KNB2

FDIMP

DL1

Heil MD2 Desk microphone and CB1 chrome stand, retro-style 'ELECRAFT' base.

Rework Eliminator for Microphone assembled but not installed.

 

Assembled by very experienced kit builder and home brewer.

 

100 Watt Finals have less than 1 hour, and K2 itself has been used very
little.  QRP lid is supplied with KIO2 for quick exchange QRO to QRP.

 

Non-Smoking environment and never outside.  This equipment is spotless and
performs beautifully.  All documentation.

 

Kits now total just under $2000.

 

Asking $1350

 

I will pay for shipping to continental USA address.

 

Price will drop $50 per week until sold or I change my mind.  Replies and
offers off-net please

 

Thank you and 73.

 

Tom, n...@comcast.net

 

 

 

 

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[Elecraft] K2 FS

2009-07-21 Thread NG3V
I have decided to go in a new direction for a while, and am posting my
K2-100 (Serial 4991) For Sale:

 

K2

KAT2

KPA100

KAT100-1

KSB2

KDSP2

KIO2

KNB2

FDIMP

DL1

Heil MD2 Desk microphone and CB1 chrome stand, retro-style 'ELECRAFT' base.

Rework Eliminator for Microphone assembled but not installed.

 

Assembled by very experienced kit builder and home brewer.

 

100 Watt Finals have less than 1 hour, and K2 itself has been used very
little.  QRP lid is supplied with KIO2 for quick exchange QRO to QRP.

 

Non-Smoking environment and never outside.  This equipment is spotless and
performs beautifully.  All documentation.

 

Kits now total just under $2000.

 

Asking $1350

 

I will pay for shipping to continental USA address.

 

Price will drop $50 per week until sold or I change my mind.  Replies and
offers off-net please

 

Thank you and 73.

 

Tom, n...@comcast.net

 

 

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Brush or Blow Dust?

2009-04-24 Thread NG3V
Actually, Don,

A breath from your mouth is really good advice.  It would contain a lot of
water vapor which will help remove the electrostatic charge on the plastic -
at least in the short run.  The canned air and the nylon brush will both
likely exacerbate it.

Tom

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2009 11:48 AM
To: Dan Nixon
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Brush or Blow Dust?

Dan,

The original question has already 'morphed' to one of general use of air 
or products for cleaning circuit boards.

Let us think about one of the reasons for that statement in the manual.  
The VFO A encoder has a plastic plate under it.  We all know that 
plastic can often build a static charge which will attract dust and 
other small particles.  If the area under where the plastic will be 
mounted has lint or dust, it can show up badly when the plastic is 
attached..  That could include gently wiping the area with a slightly 
dampened lint-free soft cloth, or even using a cloth one would normally 
use to clean eyeglasses.  The use of a dry brush may not work if used on 
the plastic because some type brushes may actually increase the static 
charge and make matters worse (but then, the manual states to clean the 
area *under* where the plastic will mount and does not refer to the 
plastic itself).  Use whatever works and is sufficiently kind so that no 
damage occurs.  A quick 'breath of air' from your mouth may be all that 
is required.

73,
Don W3FPR

Dan Nixon wrote:
 I'm an old ham who has built a lot of kits over the years. I am really
 excited though to become an Elecraft user having just received my K3 kit.
My
 question has to do with instructions to either brush or blow away any
dust
 or lint from the front panel area around the encoder shaft.

  

 I have a good old standby fine bristle brush I use for my radio front
 panels. I also have a fairly new can of the Cleaning Duster: which states
 that it is for removing dust and dirt from audio, video and other such
 equipment. It contains Difluoroethane ???

  

 Question is: What would you recommend to use safelyDan,  W4EA

  
   

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Re: [Elecraft] What is it called?

2009-04-09 Thread NG3V
I'm probably over thinking this, but when solder changes from any state to
any other state, it's still called solder.

: )

Tom

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jack Brindle
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 4:51 PM
To: 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] What is it called?

Well, at my place when it has cooled, it is called soldered.
Then we go on to the next step...

Jack Brindle, W6FB

-Original Message-
From: Adam Koczarski k3...@k3ark.com
Sent: Apr 9, 2009 10:25 AM
To: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] What is it called?



 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-
 boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John
 Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 10:20 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] What is it called?
 
 At 10:06 AM 09/04/09, you wrote:
 
  What is it called when solder becomes solid
 again after being in the liquid state.
 

If the work was performed by me it's called a cold joint.  ;-)

___
Adam R. Koczarski P.E., S.E.
a...@koczarski.com
Home page - http://www.koczarski.com

'04 ST1300ABS, Wa Lic. - 'GORIDE'
STOC #265
IBA #11470
K3ARK
Elecraft K3 #2265




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[Elecraft] Artificial RF Ground - Redux

2009-04-06 Thread NG3V
To all who took the time to answer my questions about the MFJ Artificial RF
Ground - Thank you!

 

I sincerely appreciate the well thought out replies and references.  After
digesting as much as I could I decided to go simple and work up.  I began
with 11 turns of RG-8X around a 4 inch PVC pipe, directly feeding the
antenna.

 

Preliminary tests show a much improved situation with the real test coming
after the sun goes down and 40 m comes up.

 

Thanks to all and apologies to MFJ.  I certainly didn't intend to ignite a
fire storm of debate.

 

72/73 es gd props.

 

Tom, ng3v

 

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Re: [Elecraft] EQP Where's the Buzz?

2009-03-09 Thread NG3V
Great, looking forward to it.

Is it too late to add a multiplier for SWA (simple wire antenna)?

Tom, ng3v

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of W6SX Hank Garretson
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 11:39 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] EQP Where's the Buzz?


The Elecraft QSO Party is coming up this Saturday, 14 March.

http://www.elecraft.com/

Click on EQP 2009 on the left.

Where's the Buzz?  Let's get on for this one.


73,

Hank, W6SX

Mammoth Lakes, California

Elevation 8083 feet in John Muir's Range of Light 

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Re: [Elecraft] NorCal Doublet

2009-03-07 Thread NG3V
Don,

Is the 300 ohm ladder line you mention actually open or like TV twin lead?


72,

Tom, ng3v

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 12:16 AM
To: Frank MacDonell
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NorCal Doublet

Frank,

I do not know of a source, but contrary to other posts, the Norcal doublet
used actual computer #26 IDS wire (not rotator wire).

Don't get me wrong, the rotator wire will work, but it will not be as
lightweight as one constructed of computer flat cable as the NorCal doublet
was. 

If you want an antenna that will perform just like the NorCal doublet, use
any kind of wire for the radiator, cut to 22 ft. on each side and feed it
with 300 ohm ladder line.  I use the #22 teflon wire offered frequently by
N2GO on the QRP reflector for the radiating element, and use either lengths
of the same N2GO wire twisted for the feedline or I use the 300 ohm ladder
line.  The teflon insulation is nice because it does not stick to tree limbs
and if tangled is easy to untangle because of the 'slippery' nature of
teflon.  The antenna is the same as the NorCal doublet, but the wire is
different.

73,
Don W3FPR

Frank MacDonell wrote:
 Does anyone know where one can purchase the wire for the NorCal 
 Doublet Antenna (4 strand computer ribbon wire)? Thanks

   

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[Elecraft] D-104, only slightly OT

2009-01-20 Thread NG3V
Good morning,
 
I have an old D-104 that worked fine when last used (1977) and want to use
it with the K2.
 
I know I could replace the element with one from Heil, but I would prefer to
keep it as original as possible (it does have the preamp in the G stand
base).
 
I will assume the preamp works, and I know the K2 works, but I'm not so sure
about the original element in the mic.  
 
Does anyone know a way to test the element before wiring it up?
 
Thanks es 73,
 
Tom, NG3V

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Re: [Elecraft] D-104, only slightly OT - Redux

2009-01-20 Thread NG3V
To all who took the time to reply - Thank You.

I've been wanting to do this since I finished the K2 but have never gotten
around to it.  

I bought the Heil desk mic and classic stand with the K2 and I guess I'll
have to sell it now to force my own hand.

73,

Tom

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of w2bvh
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 4:52 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] D-104, only slightly OT

I've been using the setup you describe with a K-2 for about 10 years without
problems. In fact I've gotten a few unsolicited compliments on audio over
the years. Mine is wired just like David Pratt described.  I have the K-2
set for SSBA-1 (attenuator in) and the mic gain pot about half way up. I
just turn up the pot until  1 ALC  led blinks a bit on voice peaks.

To test, hook it up and ask a friend how it sounds!

73,
Lenny W2BVH


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Mods

2008-08-18 Thread NG3V
Hi DW,

When I installed Don's Fixed Audio Output board I didn't want to drill any
holes in my K2 either.

Instead, I routed the output to one of the two existing holes on the back
panel which I terminated in a RCA phono jack.  The other hole got a
miniature (not pc board miniature, the old fashion type with a shaft) 10K
pot which I wired into the FAO board in place of the pc board pot.
Everything fits just fine, and with a small knob on the pot shaft, I can
just reach around and increase or decrease the output.  When properly
adjusted on 80 and 40, output on 15 - 10 m was too low for my taste.

73,

Tom  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of DW Holtman
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 6:41 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Mods

Hello,

I finally got around to installing the CW LED tuning indicator by Tom
Hammond N0SS. It works great, I should have put it in way back when, upon
completion of the K2. It is both sensitive to weak signals and selective.

Next I'm thinking about putting the Fixed Audio Output for digital modes
created by Don Wilhelm W3FPR. It looks very well designed. Don has put a lot
of time and effort into this project to design, build and document so
everyone can read and understand it. Have many put this in and are you happy
with the results? I'm a little nervous about drilling holes in the back
panel.

Don also has a another project on his very informative web page. This is a
switch box to make the connections from Digital modes to SSB without
unplugging cables and changing the compression settings on the SSB Board.
Has anyone built this and how do you like it? Would it be possible to
combine the two. So a fixed audio would be applied to the mic plug to use in
the switch box? This would also eleminate drilling the back panel?

I did not know if I should send this to Don, since he is the expert on most
things related to the K2. But, I thought I would send it to the group for
any ideas and hopefully Don will let everyone know what he thinks.

Best,
DW Holtman
Wb7SSN
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RE: [Elecraft] Computer Control of K2

2008-07-22 Thread NG3V
Hi,

To all who replied, thank you for taking the time to assist me.

Don, as you suggested - and as Occam's Razor once again proved - it was as
simple as cabling.  I had the connections to the K2 and the KAT100 reversed.


All is now well in HRD land.

73,

Tom 

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 11:41 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Computer Control of K2

Tom,

Since the control for the K2/KPA100/KAT100 linkage uses internal K2 signal
lines that are completely separate from the TXD and RXD signals between the
computer and the K2, the fact that your K2/KPA100/KAT100 still operate is
not any indication of 'goodness' regarding the link to HRD.

Check the port settings on the computer, Check the K2 menu to be certain
PORT is set ON.
Be certain the cable from the computer goes first to the K2 (or the KPA100
if and only if it is mounted on the K2 top cover).  If the cable to the
computer goes first to the external KAT100 (or an externally mounted
KPA100), the computer connection will not work because there are no wires in
the KAT100 to K2 cable to carry the TXD and RXD signals.

73,
Don W3FPR


NG3V wrote:
 Good Evening Group,
  
 Here's an odd one.  I decided to rebuild my ham desk and upgrade my 
 computer.  I wound up putting the old computer back where it was, so 
 nothing was changed there.
  
 After all was done, I hooked everything back up, and - while the K2, 
 KPA100 and KAT100 work fine - HRD will not recognize the radio.
  
 I have checked the cables, tried both native serial ports on the mb 
 and 2 ports on a PCI card - even reinstalled all the drivers.
  
 I have tried other control programs - no joy.
  
 I have opened the K2 and checked everything visually and checked for 
 evidence of smoke leakage.
  
 I am at a loss, so I pose you two questions:
  
 1.  Can anyone think of something I should look at?
  
 2.  Can I use a USB to Serial dongle to hook up the K2 just to try 
 something else?

   

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[Elecraft] Computer Control of K2

2008-07-21 Thread NG3V
Good Evening Group,
 
Here's an odd one.  I decided to rebuild my ham desk and upgrade my
computer.  I wound up putting the old computer back where it was, so nothing
was changed there. 
 
After all was done, I hooked everything back up, and - while the K2, KPA100
and KAT100 work fine - HRD will not recognize the radio.
 
I have checked the cables, tried both native serial ports on the mb and 2
ports on a PCI card - even reinstalled all the drivers.
 
I have tried other control programs - no joy.
 
I have opened the K2 and checked everything visually and checked for
evidence of smoke leakage.
 
I am at a loss, so I pose you two questions:
 
1.  Can anyone think of something I should look at?
 
2.  Can I use a USB to Serial dongle to hook up the K2 just to try something
else?
 
Thanks,
 
73,
 
Tom
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RE: [Elecraft] Burn in of KPA100

2008-05-22 Thread NG3V
To Don, Ron, et.al.,

Thanks for the information about tightening the screws.  I just finished the
process - not 5 minutes start to finish.  They needed less than the
suggested 1/8 turn to snug 'em up, so I'll go back in a few months and
finish the job.

73,

Tom, ng3v

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of NG3V
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 7:58 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Burn in of KPA100

Hello group,
 
I built the 100 watt amp last summer, but can't seem to overcome the urge to
stay at qrp levels.
 
So, as I probably have only a few minutes of time at 100 watts, when should
I reset the mounting screws.  Is this like 3 months or 3000 miles or is it
strictly a matter of time?
 
Should I just pound out a few hours of tests into a dummy?
 
Thanks,
 
 
Tom

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RE: [Elecraft] K2: A small milestone!

2008-05-22 Thread NG3V
Congratulations Mike,

That is a most worthy achievement.

Having been through several cycles since 1958 (Yikes, that seems like a long
time) I gotta say I am never sorry to see the troughts come.  Peaks are just
overwhelming, sometimes.  I once worked WAC on 10 meters in 15 minutes with
about 20 watts but at peak times that ain't a big deal and the band was like
a cocktail party - too intense.  I like the quieter times best.

72, 

Tom  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike K8CN
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 9:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2: A small milestone!


Although this will come as no surprise to many readers of this forum, it is
possible at the very trough of the sunspot cycle to persist and even prosper
in QRP mode:

K2/10, #5569, was placed in service on 29 August 2007, and has always been
operated at 5 W or less.  
QRP DXCC achieved 22 May 2008 thanks to 5B/LZ2HM.
Antennas used: 20 meter attic dipole; 135 foot doublet, ladder line fed, at
50 feet.
Longest path: VK3XU, near Melbourne, at approximately 10,527 miles ( 2000
miles/watt; 40 meter grey line!)

I offer this as encouragement to those who occasionally lament the dearth of
sunspots and opt for QRO!

Cheers, and a spot of bubbly to all,

Mike, K8CN
Durham, NH
--
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/K2%3A-A-small-milestone%21-tp17416782p17416782.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] Burn in of KPA100

2008-05-21 Thread NG3V
Hello group,
 
I built the 100 watt amp last summer, but can't seem to overcome the urge to
stay at qrp levels.
 
So, as I probably have only a few minutes of time at 100 watts, when should
I reset the mounting screws.  Is this like 3 months or 3000 miles or is it
strictly a matter of time?
 
Should I just pound out a few hours of tests into a dummy?
 
Thanks,
 
 
Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] Auto-Spot Feature and Hearing

2008-05-14 Thread ng3v
Hello group,

I doubt if I invented this, but here is a fool-proof method of zero beating:

I start Spectroscope which has been set to display a frequency mark at 540 Hz 
(my preference).  I then drag it over to the right side of the screen, leaving 
room for HRD on the left.  As I tune, I simply bring the peak of the desired CW 
signal under the 540 mark and I am dead bang on.  Of course I must also set the 
sidetone on my K2 to 540.

BTW, I found a free program for my PDA that registers the frequency of a tone.  
Find a steady tone, somewhere (birdies are ok) and tune it untill it is loudest 
- that's your ear's sweet spot.  Measure the frequence, set the K2, set 
spectroscope, and away you go.

72/73

Tom, ng3v (on cw since 1958 and enjoying it more every year)

-- Original message -- 
From: Lee Buller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 
 The Auto-Spot feature is very cool and has been excellent for me. I have not 
 yet loaded the new release, but I want to comment on what my experience has 
 been. 
 
 My hearing has diminished from 300 Hz all the way to 15,000 Hz and beyond. IN 
 fact, I peak at around 2,000 Hz and roll off some 60 db at 4,500 Hz. The low 
 end of the spectrum suffers as well as I roll of around 800 Hz some 20 db. I 
 have very little high end unless I crank it up and the walls start vibrating. 
 Hearing Aids would correct all this, but at $3,000 pluswell, you get the 
 picture. 
 
 So, I always spot CW signals wrong because of my hearing defects. I have a 
 tendency to be high and the station does not hear me. I have to remember to 
 tune lower and to a softer sound of 600 Hz or so. This has proven to be a 
 problem during CW contesting and I have to really work at compensating for my 
 hearing loss below a thousand Hz. The Auto-Spot feature changed all that. 
 Just 
 very cool. I want to see how it works in a contest. 
 
 So, protect your hearing and do not get old. Use hearing protection while 
 mowing the lawn, going to rock concerts (what a fun time that was), listening 
 to 
 your Iron Butterfly LP (HE HE HE); use reasonable volume when working the 
 contests, and while working in noisy environments (25 years in broadcasting 
 using headphones). 
 
 73 
 Lee - K0WA 
 
 
 
 In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you 
 don't 
 have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find 
 any 
 Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common 
 Sense divine? 
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