Re: [Elecraft] K2 DSP?

2010-06-23 Thread W B Reese
I have a K2 with both the audio filters and the clock installed.

The clock is useless to me, it doesn't keep time, and it is too hard 
to correct the time base and fix the time.  I never use it.  I have 
an external clock that sits on top of the K2 and it is visible all 
the time when I need it.

The audio filter is useful rarely when the QRM is really bad.  I'm 
VERY glad to have it when I need it !!

I've had my K2 for about 10 years and would recommend it to anyone 
who doesn't require a stable rig that doesn't drift.  My K2 drifts 
about 110Hz from cold to full running, and I run it VERY hard and 
VERY hot.  110Hz doesn't bother me at all.  But I do think it might 
be an important consideration to someone on the fence.

Yes, I have the no drift updates both to the VFO and the BFO, and 
it still drifts 110Hz.

I run an amplifier, Ameritron AL811H and to drive it, I use 
50W.  This places extra heat in the KPA100 and increases the 
drift.  It wouldn't be a problem for normal people, but I'm a rag 
chewer on 40M and 10 minute transmissions are not uncommon for 
me.  The people I talk to send 10 minute marathons back to me, but it 
doesn't cool down sufficiently for the fan to turn off when they do 
so.  It runs VERY hot.  So far, no problems.

BTW, anyone who cares to check the bandplans at ARRL will find the 
cw portion of 40 meters is now down to 10KHz.
This is one reason the digital boys are down to 7035.

I regularly find digital boys down on 7030, I was there this morning 
for about 30 minutes.  When I find one, I like to plant my 500W 
directly on him and make a lengthy QSO.  I recommend this practice to 
all CW operators !  We need to OCCUPY our 10KHz and defend it if we 
intend to keep it.

TR, K6GC
K2/100/KAT2 S/N 838, Updated to S/N 6XXX
___

At 01:48 PM 6/23/2010 -0400, you wrote:
  Getting closer to ordering a K2...the www page says NOW WITH DSP?  Do I
order the DSP board or not?  Inquiring minds want to know...

I've had my K2 for a few years now, no DSP, and do exclusively 40m CW work,
using only the built-in standard filters.  Absolutely no complains and have
never felt the need for the DSP.  I do have the optional audio filter (two
levels of audio filtering), but I never even use them.

That's certainly not to say DSP filter is of no use, and I'm sure I'd use it
if I had it.  But if you're on the fence, you might try it without it at
first, and you can always add it later.

If I remember correctly you may install either the clock/audio filter OR the
DSP, but not both at the same time (but double check on that... it's been
ages since I've looked)

--Andrew, NV1B
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Re: [Elecraft] philosophical discussion

2009-12-28 Thread W B Reese
I drive a Miata and have no trouble mounting the K2.

http://w9iix.com/

is a wonderful mount just on the passenger side of the center 
console, it bolts to the floor and can be attached and de-attached in 
just a couple of minutes.  When there is a passenger, it goes out, 
the floormat goes down and you can't tell anything is installed, the 
floor is flat.  When it is in, the mount is sturdy and positioned 
perfectly.  A pleasure to mobile.  Anyone who thinks a K2 can't be 
installed in their car needs to check W9IXX !

TR, WB6TMY
K2 S/N 838

At 08:20 AM 12/28/2009 -0800, you wrote:
K2 should be a very nice radio to use it as a mobile station in any 
vehicle because of its very low noise receiver but the problem comes 
with its size,unless you have an 18 wheeler or maybe in some 
motorhomes where there is  big space available you will not  be able 
to install it.It don't have a detachable panel to use it as remore 
installation like the kenwood 480,or Icoms 7000 so that makes it 
more difficult,I have been thinking to install it on my SUV but then 
I will have to build a custom made mount to put it in front of my 
dashboard.Its tempting to have such a good radio and not been able 
to use it as a mobile unit.

AD4C

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Re: [Elecraft] Is the K2 old technology?

2009-12-13 Thread W B Reese
Dear Tom  the list,

At 02:35 AM 12/14/2009 +, you wrote:

As far as the reflector, some of us urged Elecraft to separate the K2 and
K3 lists in some way, but they have opted not to do so. As a result, this
is not the resource it used to be for a K2 owner. You can still get ALL
your questions answered here, so don't get me wrong, but you will drown in
K3 trivia if you just monitor the list, and there is no easy way to receive
only K2-related threads that I know of.

I use Eudora 7 Mail Client, and believe others may have some of the 
same abilities.

I set the filters to look for K3 in the subject or in the body, and 
if so it goes in the trash as read.
K2 is the next filter so it puts those in the Elecraft mailbox.
Those that don't have K3 or K2 go in the In mailbox.

It isn't a foolproof system, but it really helps me seperate out the 
K3 messages.

TR, WB6TMY

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2 Adding a Gas Discharge Tube a Benefit?

2009-11-14 Thread W B Reese
I'd like to recommend to others my solution.

An Alpha Delta Model TT3G50

While it may not be as inexpensive as winding your own chokes etc, it 
is a whole lot easier.  I have a double male connector on the back of 
the K2/100/AT100 and it feeds the amplifier or antenna.  I never move 
it.  BTW I have a coax fed dipole and on 80 meters I deal with 
substantial SWR's when I get up to the fone band.  Sometimes as high 
as 5:1 because my antenna is tuned on 3530 KHz.  My amplifier, an 
Ameritron 811H doesn't like that, so I have a tuner, a MFJ 989B - 
this is the one to have, the coil is on a ceramic form and doesn't 
come un-sprong as other models do.  Anyway, it has a switch in it 
to put your rig on a dummy load when not on the air.  Between the 
two, it provides (I believe) an excellent measure of protection.

TR, WB6TMY


At 04:46 AM 11/14/2009 -0500, Don W3FPR wrote:
While that RF Choke is well and good from the standpoint of static
discharge, I strongly suggest you move it outboard of the KPA100.
With the original KPA100 design, there was a 100 uH choke located at the
antenna jack.  That choke was removed along with the improved T/R switch
design. - The reason - that choke could (and in some cases did) couple
with circuits in the base K2 and cause a parasitic oscillation to occur,
especially when operating on 40 meters.
So while I do encourage you to use such a choke, I also encourage you to
mount it somewhere in your antenna system outside the K2/100 enclosure.
If you have an antenna switch, open it and install the choke at the
'input' jack.  If you have an amplifier that is always in line, install
it at the amplifier input.  Worst case, if you have no convenient place
to mount it in the shack end of your antenna system is to use a small
die cast box with a male chassis mount UHF connector on one side and a
female UHF jack on the other, place the choke in the enclosure, wire the
connector centers together, and mount the box directly on the KPA100
SO-239 jack.

As for the gas discharge tube, that may do a good job, but do calculate
the gas tube voltage rating assuming a 3:1 SWR at the 100 watt level -
it should not fire with that peak RF voltage.  By my quick calculations,
a 200 volt breakdown gas discharge tube would be about right.
Mount the gas discharge tube at the same place as the RF Choke.

For the best protection, disconnect the antennas when the K1, K2, K3,
KX1 are not in use - or even better use an antenna switch to switch in a
dummy load instead of the antenna.

73,
Don W3FPR

Tel: . . . 707-832-4304 

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Re: [Elecraft] Successfully using a micro fan to keep K2 cool

2009-05-27 Thread W B Reese
How noisy is it ?

One idea I've had for a long time is to remove the elecraft fan on 
the rear of K2 and find a hose of the proper diameter, somehow 
mounting it in a semi-permanent fashon.  at the other end of the 
hose, a box with a big fan that can really blast some serious air 
through the K2.  Put the box on the floor or in the next room so you 
don't have to hear it.

Any thoughts ?

TR, WB6TMY K2 S/N 838

At 09:24 AM 5/27/2009 -0700, you wrote:
I happened to have one of these in my parts bins and it seems to work
just fine.
It sets on top of the unit in right-rear, on the heatsync.
I have it limited by a 47ohm resister soldered to the switched DC inside
the unit.
For standard qso usage, it keeps the heatsync just slightly warm to the
touch.
And its so tiny it has very little cosmetic effect on the unit.

I would suggest Elecraft manufacture this as an accessory, providing a
clamp assembly.

12VDC Micro Fan
Model: 273-240  |  Catalog #: 273-240
1.6 square, .39 depth

Tel: . . . 707-832-4304 

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Re: [Elecraft] Successfully using a micro fan to keep K2 cool

2009-05-27 Thread W B Reese
Well, I like mine cool.  In my experience, cool equipment has fewer 
breakdowns and lasts longer.  Not only that, it has less drift.

There is a menu in K2 to calibrate the temperature probe that 
controls the fan.  I have mine set to a much higher temperature than 
what it actually is.  This makes the fan come on at a lower 
temperature.  I just put up with the noise.

My K2/100 drifts about 70 Hz from a cold turn on in the mornings to 
ambiant.  If I begin rag chewing and really pound away it will 
drift another 40 Hz.  I live with this every day, and although it 
gives me something to do while rag chewing, but I'd be happy to 
improve the temperature stability further and reduce it a bit more.

So, Ron,

It got hot enough you couldn't put your hand on it...  How far did it drift ?

TR, WB6TMT K2 S/N 838

At 10:24 AM 5/27/2009 -0700, you wrote:
Good grief! How cool do you want to keep the K2?

Several years ago I ran some tests for one of the engineers to check the
K2's frequency stability vs. temperature. Several testers and I cycled the
K2's internal temperature by hooking on a suitable dummy load and
transmitting for extended periods so the 100 watt PA would cook the insides.
(Some actually did the brick on the key routine from what I recall.)

Mine was heated enough I couldn't keep my hand on the PA heat sink and the
internal air temperature was well above 120F. That was done dozens of times
with no deleterious effects on the K2 or the amp, then or since.

I have used a 4 square muffin fan sitting in rubber feet on top of the K2
running at a slow speed, not to keep it any cooler but to avoid the noisy
little fan on the back from running.

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
How noisy is it ?

One idea I've had for a long time is to remove the elecraft fan on
the rear of K2 and find a hose of the proper diameter, somehow
mounting it in a semi-permanent fashon.  at the other end of the
hose, a box with a big fan that can really blast some serious air
through the K2.  Put the box on the floor or in the next room so you
don't have to hear it.

Any thoughts ?

TR, WB6TMY K2 S/N 838


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[Elecraft] K2 Intermitt

2009-03-04 Thread W B Reese
Dear Elecrafters,

For some years now my K2/100 S/N 838 has had an intermitt.

When I take it to a new location, it is generally jostled somewhat in 
moving it and hooking it up.

When all installed, everything works perfectly,... then...

Without warning, the received tone on the other guy gets holes in 
it.  Like a noise blanker is cutting out the audio on noise bursts, 
only the noise blanker is off and these holes are much bigger than 
noise blanker holes.  The holes get bigger and bigger until you can't 
read the other station, then, mysteriously, they go away and all is 
normal.  If you are transmitting during one of these episodes, the 
other station will report that you are breaking up.

Whatever it is, affects both transmitt and receive the same.

Some years ago I discovered that unplugging the anderson power 
connector on the rear and plugging it back in cleared the problem, 
but it troubled me that this is not a very good way to turn 
transistors on and off and it could result in transients.  It 
certainly made a loud pop in the loudspeaker.  Obviously, there was 
a problem in the power cord !  So the cord was replaced and the VCC 
was measured during a breaking up episode and found to be stable 
inside the K2/100.  So it was not the power cord.

The next solution was to turn K2 on it's left side and hit it with a 
good smart whack with my fist.  After one or two of these, the 
problem clears and does not come back until K2 is taken on a trip, 
and then it starts up again.

An easy fix and much less potentially destructive than jerking the 
power cord in and out.  Never the less, still embarrassing on field 
day when I'm out with the boys.

Does anyone have an idea what might be causing this ?

Thanks,

TR, WB6TMY
K2/100 S/N 838



Tel: . . . 707-832-4304 

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