Re: [Elecraft] “ELECRAFT NVIS field day”

[email]

I put up an NVIS antenna for 80m a number of years ago.  It works great 
for local 80m nets.
It is a full wave length loop (more square) mounted about 10' above the 
ground.

It is feed with 450 ohm ladderline from a 1:1 current balun at the ATU.
EZNEC shows the radiation is UP.
It also shows gain and not as much UP on 40m and 20m.
I have worked DX on all bands.

73, steve WB3LGC

On 12/18/21 4:09 AM, Ken WA8JXM wrote:

--- "In Hawaii, 40 meters worked great for NVIS probably 11 out of 12
months a year. Someone else who knows can comment, but I got the impression
that 40 meters almost never works for NVIS in the mainland US.  If this is
true, an Elecraft NVIS field day might be limited to those who either have
room for an 80 meter dipole, or who can devise some other kind of 80 meter
antenna that can radiate up."


I think it depends on time of day, time of year, and what part of the
sunspot cycle.  40m is pretty much the top limit for NVIS though.  But
sometimes 40 works for NVIS.  That's one of the reasons for our 60m
allocation, NVIS when 40 is too  long and 80m is dead.   OTOH  I've seen
160 too long for statewide coverage at times.

FWIW, I agree a vertical is not an NVIS antenna.  Some people may be
confusing groundwave (usually up to 25 miles) with NVIS.  They are totally
different propagation modes.

Ken WA8JXM

On Fri, Dec 17, 2021 at 7:22 PM David Herring  wrote:


It is absolutely true that antennas intended for NVIS use do not have to
be hung low.  But they CAN be.  And there are instances where doing so can
be desirable.

When I lived in Hawaii, we used NVIS for reliable statewide HF
communications to very good effect.  When I hung my dipole up about 30 feet
or so, I would frequently get calls from hams in Japan, Oceana, mainland
US, Canada and elsewhere. Ordinarily that would be nice, but when one is
specifically focused on local comms, that can get to be a problem. When I
hung my NVIS dipole down around 10 feet, I still got excellent statewide
communications but no longer got calls from afar.

So I kept my dipole low for local, and erected a vertical for DX.  Both
worked perfectly for their intended use.

In Hawaii, 40 meters worked great for NVIS probably 11 out of 12 months a
year. Someone else who knows can comment, but I got the impression that 40
meters almost never works for NVIS in the mainland US.  If this is true, an
Elecraft NVIS field day might be limited to those who either have room for
an 80 meter dipole, or who can devise some other kind of 80 meter antenna
that can radiate up.

73,
Dave - N5DCH





On Dec 17, 2021, at 11:05 AM, Julia Tuttle 

wrote:

Wait, why would people think verticals are good for NVIS? Isn't a
vertical's radiation pattern pretty much "sideways but not up", and NVIS'
desired radiation pattern "up but not sideways"?

On Fri, Dec 17, 2021, 12:54 Jim Brown 
<mailto:j...@audiosystemsgroup.com>> wrote:

On 12/17/2021 6:12 AM, Greg Herman wrote:

What if there was the annual event called the The Elecraft
NVIS field day?

There is a major myth regarding NVIS that antennas must be low. This is
totally false. The facts are that vertical antennas are terrible for
NVIS, and that horizontal antennas work better up to nearly one-half
wavelength above ground. This study ran in National Contest Journal
several years ago.

http://k9yc.com/AntennaPlanning.pdf

73, Jim K9YC

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P

Re: [Elecraft] Best Portable Wire

[email]

I have been using a couple of "things"...

First see: 
https://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-Camp-Laundry-Reel-21-Foot/dp/B001QBZM4Q/ref=sr_1_29?crid=3GJ5K4I006OGB&keywords=camping+clothesline&qid=1640011049&sprefix=camping+clothesline%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-29 
as a wire winder.


I use 24ga Teflon wire.  The copper strands are silver plated, with a 
banana plug attached.  I have been using the winder + Teflon wire for 
many years.  Works great.


For my 135' ladderline fed dipole, I use 24ga silver plated wire that is 
(I think) nylon coated.  I picked it out of the "junk box" (trash) at 
work YEARS ago.  The closest replacement would be Teflon wire.  The 
silver plating makes for GREAT conduction.


Otherwise, I would use Wireman stealth wire either 26ga or 18ga.

73, steve WB3LGC

On 12/19/21 6:52 PM, K4SRQ-Burt wrote:
Ok, quick question for all you portable geeks.  I am running the Wayne 
style end fed random wire thrown over a tree.  Using AWG 14 but need a 
smaller wire.  Anyone have a favorite wire you use for the Ant and 
Ground Plane?  Rugged, straightens nice etc.?


Burt

K4SRQ
Sarasota

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Kenwood MC-50 mike

[email]

Joe W4TV and Bob N6TV,

I have been following discussion on the Elecraft and Elecraft K4 groups 
about MC-50/MC-60A and dynamic mike bias off (not being off, at times).


I have been using a Kenwood MC-60A with my K4D, I plan on re-wiring my 
Heil GoldLine HC-4 taken from TenTec Orion II, and it looks like both 
mikes NEED the 1uf Tantalum Cap inline with the dynamic element as 
neither of those mikes have one.  I also need to research my Heil Elite 
Pro HC-6 dynamic as "I think" it may have one.


I have also "just" come to the understanding that MICBIAS and BIAS (pin 
6) are TWO different "things" (correct me if I am wrong - reason for 
schematic, below) As I can see MIKEBIAS goes to Mike Pin 1 (J2).


Thank you for pointing out that the Kenwood mike uses a different pin 
for the +8v bias (SO, Elecraft did not follow the Kenwood mike layout 
100%) ??


I enjoy ALL your comments and advise.

73, steve WB3LGC








On 4/9/22 09:57, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

The MC50/MC50A/MC60A are a decent quality dynamic mic and a good
match for the Elecraft transceivers.  With the MC50A/MC60A one can
(should) turn off the preamp in the base unless the 8 pin output
jack is modified to move the +8V input from pin 5 to pin 6.


73,

   ... Joe, W4TV 

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[Elecraft] K4D - KPA500 Fault Question + wish

[EMAIL]

Yesterday I got a fault message on the K4 screen. It disappeared before 
I could see it fully, but I did get "tighten heatsink screws".  The fan 
was working as its speed was speeding up and the KPA500 temp saw about 
60+C (it may have been higher).  I was running 100 watts PSK31.  The 
KPA500 did switch to STBY (I think).


I can not find any record of what the message was.  I can not find 
"heatsink screws" referenced in the K4, KPA500 or KPA1500 manuals.  Both 
the K4 and KPA500 are factory built.


PSK31 has a longer duty cycle than FT8 and I was running FT8 at higher 
power with out the amp temp going above 60C, earlier.  I switched to 
barefoot and ran 80W PSK31 without issue.


Question 1) Before I take the KPA500 apart, is this a problem or just 
duty cycle?  I would think the KPA500 would be able to handle 100W key 
down.


Question 2) I saved the K4 backup and diagnostic logs to USB disk (the 
next day).  I could NOT find anything that looked like the error 
messages.  I find many messages disappear before I get a chance to read 
them.


Wish 1) KPA500 add FAN CTL for both OPER and STBY or set STBY to run at 
NOR and OPER to be adjustable.


Wish 2) K4, allow checking date/time for all past error messages.  I may 
have had a KPA500 over temp message while long winded on SSB (but only 
200W)?


Wish 3) K4, HOLD error messages until "confirmed".  Messages like KPA500 
on/off (info) only need to be short time (??), but if away (maybe 
confirm).  Either way "this" will be an issue for  the contesters, so 
have a way to save for later recall, as in write to USB if one is 
installed.  Fn could write to USB disk with time stamp?  OR, are there 
documents on how to read the diagnostic logs?



73, steve WB3LGC

I will also send to support if no one has a good idea about the fault.

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Re: [Elecraft] K4D - KPA500 Fault Question + wish

[email]

On 4/24/22 15:06, Jack Brindle wrote:

Steve;

Use the KPA Utility to see the KPA faults. Access is under the Configuration 
tab, then click on “Display Fault Table”.
You can also save it to a file for view in a text editor, or if we ask for it, 
send it to tech support for analysis.


Thanks, I knew I had seen the fault table some place.

What was there were early learning and adjusting (tuning) an antenna 
that needed a 4:1 balun to match.


I will keep the utility on to see if it captures future "issues".

I DO like and USE the the KAT500 utility as it provides NICE antenna 
status info like SWR with/without bypass.


The FAN CTL sets the minimum fan speed. It works in both OPER and STBY modes.Yes, it just would be nice if putting into standby, that when cooled, 
it would quiet down. Yes, I can do it manually.


And, like all amplifiers, the KPA500 has a design point where efficiency is 
best. Outside this design point (both high and low),
efficiency will fall off and you will find that the amp will run hotter. This 
is what you may have found. Remember, the PSK modes
tend to keep transmission active for very long times, and can really tax an 
amplifier. Amazingly, you may be better off running
the amp at higher power than yo were using to lower the stress on the PA. I am 
sure there are several folks on the reflector who
Can explain this very well.Yes, that maybe the extra heat. Thak you. I won't pull things apart, 
just yet...


The amplifier will protect itself(IT DID, nice!)  if the PA temperature goes 
above 90 degrees Celsius. That is the point where you will see a fault.
The fault log actually records the temperature when the fault occurred in its 
data field, which is displayed in a hexadecimal value.

Try looking at the fault log to see what happened on the KPA side. If you have 
questions, just ask.

73,
Jack, W6FB

Thanks, Steve WB3LGC

On Apr 24, 2022, at 1:03 PM, EMAIL  wrote:

Yesterday I got a fault message on the K4 screen. It disappeared before I could see it 
fully, but I did get "tighten heatsink screws".  The fan was working as its 
speed was speeding up and the KPA500 temp saw about 60+C (it may have been higher).  I 
was running 100 watts PSK31.  The KPA500 did switch to STBY (I think).

I can not find any record of what the message was.  I can not find "heatsink 
screws" referenced in the K4, KPA500 or KPA1500 manuals.  Both the K4 and KPA500 are 
factory built.

PSK31 has a longer duty cycle than FT8 and I was running FT8 at higher power 
with out the amp temp going above 60C, earlier.  I switched to barefoot and ran 
80W PSK31 without issue.

Question 1) Before I take the KPA500 apart, is this a problem or just duty 
cycle?  I would think the KPA500 would be able to handle 100W key down.

Question 2) I saved the K4 backup and diagnostic logs to USB disk (the next 
day).  I could NOT find anything that looked like the error messages.  I find 
many messages disappear before I get a chance to read them.

Wish 1) KPA500 add FAN CTL for both OPER and STBY or set STBY to run at NOR and 
OPER to be adjustable.

Wish 2) K4, allow checking date/time for all past error messages.  I may have 
had a KPA500 over temp message while long winded on SSB (but only 200W)?

Wish 3) K4, HOLD error messages until "confirmed".  Messages like KPA500 on/off (info) 
only need to be short time (??), but if away (maybe confirm).  Either way "this" will be 
an issue for  the contesters, so have a way to save for later recall, as in write to USB if one is 
installed.  Fn could write to USB disk with time stamp?  OR, are there documents on how to read the 
diagnostic logs?


73, steve WB3LGC

I will also send to support if no one has a good idea about the fault.

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Re: [Elecraft] K4D - KPA500 Fault Question + wish

[email]

Jack,

Now that you ask.

I have been using the fan at (1) when I run FT8 to "get a head start" 
when I do TX.  I don't NEED to.  I like to see lower TEMP and it does.  
I have been known to run 400W on FT8, too (FT8 is low signal mode not 
QRP) and I have been trying to get a Dallas station DE on 10m digital 
(in a skip zone).


Thanks for the help.
73, steve WB3LGC


On 4/24/22 16:40, Jack Brindle wrote:
Now, my question for everyone reading - when is it that you feel the 
need to set the fan speed above 0?


73,
Jack, W6FB


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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-K4] K4D - Fault Question + wish

[EMAIL]

OK,

I found the error message...

"ER53, High LPA temperature; check LPA heat sink screws: Temperature at 
10 watt stage exceeded its limit. This could be caused by the screws on 
the bottom cover becoming too lose, by high ambient temperature, or by 
excessive key-down time."


It would be NICE if the messages could be viewed after the fact.  Like 
KPA500 utility.  I originally thought it was a KPA500 issue.  I was 
running 10 watts from the LPA at the time, key down PSK31 in a QSO.  IF, 
I had run a little more power so that the HPA (High Power Amp) was 
coasting then the LPA could coast, too   (aka, better to run 400 
Watts with the KPA500 than 100 Watts... or 50+ watts barefoot)


NOW, I understand what was going on.  Thanks Jack, W6FB

73, Steve WB3LGC


On 24-Apr-22 02:03 PM, Steve WB3LGC wrote:


Yesterday I got a fault message on the K4 screen.  It disappeared 
before I could see it fully, but I did get "tighten heatsink screws".  
The fan was working as its speed was speeding up and the KPA500 temp 
saw about 60+C (it may have been higher).  I was running 100 watts 
PSK31.  The KPA500 did switch to STBY (I think).


I can not find any record of what the message was.  I can not find 
"heatsink screws" referenced in the K4, KPA500 or KPA1500 manuals.  
Both the K4 and KPA500 are factory built.


PSK31 has a longer duty cycle than FT8 and I was running FT8 at higher 
power with out the amp temp going above 60C, earlier.  I switched to 
barefoot and ran 80W PSK31 without issue.


Question 1)Before I take the KPA500 apart, is this a problem or just 
duty cycle?  I would think the KPA500 would be able to handle 100W key 
down.


Question 2) I saved the K4 backup and diagnostic logs to USB disk (the 
next day). I could NOT find anything that looked like the error 
messages.  I find many messages disappear before I get a chance to 
read them.


Wish 1) KPA500 add FAN CTL for both OPER and STBY or set STBY to run 
at NOR and OPER to be adjustable.


Wish 2) K4, allow {EASY} checking date/time for all past error 
messages. I may have had a KPA500 over temp message while long winded 
on SSB (but only 200W)?


Wish 3) K4, HOLD error messages until "confirmed".  Messages like 
KPA500 on/off (info) only need to be short time (??), but if away 
(maybe confirm).  Either way "this" will be an issue for  the 
contesters, so have a way to save for later recall, as in write to USB 
if one is installed.  Fn could write to USB disk with time stamp?  OR, 
are there documents on how to read the diagnostic logs?



73, steve WB3LGC

I will also send to support if no one has a good idea about the fault.


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Re: [Elecraft] K4D - KPA500 Fault Question + wish

[EMAIL]

Jack,

OK, you win.

I went back to fan speed (0) NOR and with FT8 at 400+ watts, the KPA500 
is only "doing" 56C max AND fan speed (2) is maxing also at 56C.  So, 
yes I will run the fan at (0) NOR.


Also, "rest" for NOR is 44C.

73, steve WB3LGC


On 24-Apr-22 05:21 PM, email wrote:

Jack,

Now that you ask.

I have been using the fan at (1) when I run FT8 to "get a head start" 
when I do TX.  I don't NEED to.  I like to see lower TEMP and it 
does.  I have been known to run 400W on FT8, too (FT8 is low signal 
mode not QRP) and I have been trying to get a Dallas station DE on 10m 
digital (in a skip zone).


Thanks for the help.
73, steve WB3LGC


On 4/24/22 16:40, Jack Brindle wrote:
Now, my question for everyone reading - when is it that you feel the 
need to set the fan speed above 0?


73,
Jack, W6FB


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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-K4] Zero to 500Hz noise in DATA mode

[email]

I asked about this same thing for my KX3 and never got any interest (or 
reply). I was expecting flat from 0.01 to .0 for the K4D.  Better, 
but not zero point zero.


With input from many, maybe it will happen (for KX3, too).  Maybe CESSB 
for the KX3 ??


The roll-off is also an issue for Winlink with VARA, too.


73, steve WB3LGC


On 5/26/22 13:04, Rob Sherwood wrote:


Speaking for roll-off, there is a significant audio roll off in the 
analog output on the high end on the order of 8 dB, dependent on the 
selected DSP bandwidth.  I would like to see this fixed, too.


A picture containing text, oven, cooking, silver Description 
automatically generated


I don’t understand why there is any low-frequency roll-off in Data mode.

Rob, NC0B

*From:*elecraft...@groups.io [mailto:elecraft...@groups.io] *On Behalf 
Of *Maurizio I2NOY

*Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2022 9:49 AM
*To:* elecraft...@groups.io
*Subject:* Re: [Elecraft-K4] Zero to 500Hz noise in DATA mode

Dear Grant,

in data mode K4 applies filtering below about 150 Hz with some ringing 
on the cut-off frequency.


I already submitted here some pictures of WSJTx waterfall of K4 and 
Anand 7000 DLE MkII. It seems that there is not any interest from 
anyone to flatten the audio curve in data mode on lower frequencies or 
move the cut-off lower than 100 Hz.


If you search my posts on this group, you can see them.

Best 73s,

Maurizio I2NOY

Il 26/05/2022 15:32, Grant Saviers - KZ1W ha scritto:

I've finally got my K4 fully integrated in place of my
Maestro/6700. The struggle to get enough CAT controls was finally
resolved. The flexibility of Flex's CAT architecture was really
missed.

One significant RF difference immediately noted is the noise
(phase noise?) in the DATA spectrum display with the LO bandwidth
set to zero.  The 6700 had none, at least down to a few tens of
Hz.  The K4 noise appears bad enough that WSJT will have
difficulty decoding the DX and FOX stations that tend to play as
low as 200Hz.  Weak stations are already hard to see on the
display.  OTOH, the top end of the DATA chosen bandwidth (3500)
seems cleaner than the 6700.

Being a total newbie to the K4 is there a means to reduce the low
frequency noise?  Or is this a needed K4 DSP software fix?

Grant KZ1W





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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft 80M SSB Net Report

[email]

Dave,

I had an old freq (3775).
I did find 3781 and YL interrupted for important stuff on TV.
I missed , BUT the net with new freq info is back on the calendar.

I'll try again,  73 Steve WB3LGC


On 1/29/23 10:18 PM, Dave New, N8SBE wrote:

3784 kHz, 9PM ET Sunday (0200Z Monday).

Thanks to the following check ins (w):

  Call State Radio/Amp  Name
1 K8NU OH    FTdx101d   Carl (w)
2 WB9JNZ   IL    FTdx101d   Eric (w)
3 N8SBE    MI    K3s    Dave (w),(op)

Good conditions on 80M tonight.  However, there was a conversation on 
3784 this evening, so we were able to move down to 3781 kHz. Your net 
control was having antenna(?) issues again this evening, and ended up 
having to run 100W barefoot, which worked out OK since there is very 
little QRN on 80M in the winter.


Sorry if we missed you this evening, with the last minute frequency 
change and all.


Hope to see you next week, and tell your friends!

73,

-- Dave, N8SBE
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA 100 Hi Dissipation Fault on 15 Meters

[email]

Ron & Fred,

A few weeks ago, I got help from Mothership Service, confirming that I 
can "reboot" the bricked KPA500 using the utility program.
It worked.  Moral, turn off the back switch of the amp if the USB/serial 
cable is attached.
Trying to find the USB COM port (Linux) for the K4, I inadvertently sent 
a "download data coming" command to the amp.


My YL, gets a chuckle when I find "turn it off and back on", works... as 
we are fans of the "IT Crowd" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nn2FB1P_Mn8


73, steve WB3LGC


yes, the KPA500 has been working, like a champ, since the re-load...


On 1/30/23 10:06 AM, Ron Lawson wrote:

It occurs to me that I never thought I’d see the day when I could fix my radio 
with*Ctrl-Alt-Delete*.
Ron
na2o


On Jan 30, 2023, at 09:57, Fred Nassar  wrote:

Update on the KXPA100 fault on 15 meters: The issue went away for a while
and returned. I decided to reinstall the firmware and reset the
configuration via the KXPA utility. All seems to be working again. Will
keep an eye on it.

Thanks
Fred
KE4Q


On Sat, Jan 14, 2023 at 4:38 PM David Haines  wrote:

Here too. Fault table says "Hi dissipation 228.58 watts."  First time
I've ever tried 15 meters.
KX3 #08651 and KXPA100 have never been out for service and work fine on
10, 20, and 40 meters.

david
kc1dny


On 1/14/2023 2:32 PM, Terry Griffey via Elecraft wrote:
Fred - Yes, I am experiencing the exact same behavior.  It only occurs

on 15m and output wattage displayed on the KXPA100 MUCH higher than it
should be before it faults and turns itself off.  The amp just came back
from service in April due to another issue. :(

Tnx!
Terry - KG5OWB



On Jan 14, 2023, at 11:46 AM,elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net  wrote:

Subject: [Elecraft] KXPA 100 Hi Dissipation Fault on 15 Meters

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft 80M SSB Net Report

[email]

Thanks Dave,

Thanks for the Netlogger tip.
I will run Netlogger, too.
I did find a Linux install (.deb) at http://netlogger.org/download.php, 
so all should be good. (Install OK, Run OK)


73 steve WB3LGC


On 1/30/23 1:30 PM, Dave New, N8SBE wrote:
I post the current frequency, so if you go to the Netlogger site 
during net time, you should be able to find us quite easily

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Re: [Elecraft] East Coast Service

[email]

Group,

Total cost to the customer "should" be less with shorter UPS distance.

Another thought, DE has no sales tax. Ship parts orders from DE, too.
I am not looking to start a business, I do live in DE and "tax free" is 
nice.


73, steve WB3LGC


On 2/1/23 12:03 PM, Pete Smith N4ZR wrote:
Stocking of parts might be a real problem, but even if the tech had to 
order the parts from W'ville, the turnaround would have to be better 

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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day Operation

[email]

there IS a 100 W category.  500 W max for high power (this year).  last 
year ALL limited to 100W


73, steve WB3LGC

On 6/26/23 10:08 PM, jerry wrote:


*** Didn't they make a rule this year that everybody's limited to 100W?

   - Jerry, KF6VB


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT 500 Loses Match

[email]

With the K4 power (drive) low enough, the amp can make 200W.  Maybe not 
efficiently.   (yes, 200W is only 3db more than 100W)  If FT8 RX level 
at -24, then 3db may be important ??


steve WB3LGC

On 1/12/24 7:52 PM, Ken WA8JXM wrote:
Why do you have the amplifier running?  30m is as restricted power band. 

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[Elecraft] (no subject)

[Jerry email]

I have a funny story to share with the group.  I had a senior moment a few 
months back and sold my K3 to generate cash to buy a PW-1 amplifier.  Well it 
took about a month to realize that I had really made a mistake and I finally 
decided that the K3 had to be replaced in my station.  A friend near me decided 
that he was going to sell his K3 that he had bought used and we worked out a 
deal.  I brought the K3 home and put it back in its slot in the station 
console.  I leafed through the documentation and the handwriting on the 
assembly manual sure looked familiar.  I had just bought back MY K3.  I checked 
the serial number and sure enough the K3 I assembled found its way home.  What 
are the chances of that happening?  Wayne and Eric I promise to not sin again 
in the future or until you release the K4.

Jerry  K8RA   ( www.k8ra.com )
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[Elecraft] Packing the Buddipole antenna

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

for those of you using the Buddipole antenna system, heres a video on 
packing it up


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TmRJzUvOkk

Stan
KB4IA

K3 sn 646
K2 sn 1089
KX1 sn
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.9

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi Raymoond,

open a DOS-BOX and use the following commands:

ftp ftp.elecraft.com
Verbindung mit ftp.elecraft.com wurde hergestellt.
220 ProFTPD 1.2.9 Server (elecraft.com) [elecraft.com]
Benutzer (ftp.elecraft.com:(none)): anonymous
331 Anonymous login ok, send your complete email address as your
password.
Kennwort:
230 Anonymous access granted, restrictions apply.
ftp> cd K3
250 CWD command successful.
ftp> cd firmware
250 CWD command successful.
ftp> cd beta
250 CWD command successful.
ftp> bin
200 Type set to I
ftp> ls
200 PORT command successful
150 Opening ASCII mode data connection for file list
k3fw1r94.zip
226 Transfer complete.
FTP: 64d Bytes empfangen in 0,00Sekunden 14000,00KB/s
ftp> get k3fw1r94.zip
200 PORT command successful
150 Opening BINARY mode data connection for k3fw1r94.zip (343463 bytes)
226 Transfer complete.
FTP: 64d Bytes empfangen in 3,36Sekunden 102,22KB/s
ftp> bye
221 Goodbye.



73 de Thomas, DM7TN

-Original Message-
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 15:11:28 +0200
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.9
From: "Raymond METZGER" 
To: 

Hi Elecrafters,

I have always loaded FW releases from the normal http:// Elecraft
server.
To load the latest beta version, we are instructed to access an FTP
server
(URL = ftp://ftp.elecraft...)
My Internet Explorer config does not allow me to access the FTP site.
What should I do ?

Thanks and 73
de Raymond, F4FNT

K3/100 # 615, K2/100 # 5,636 



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[Elecraft] Buddipole stuff at Dayton

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

A friend of mine, K8EAB, took some pictures at Dayton of the new stuff 
at Buddipole.


"Several new Buddipole Products were shown for the first time
at the Dayton Hamvention ... I saw the "Automatic Buddipole" at
the QRP Vendor Night presentation, along with a compact 40-amp
super-cap power supply ... the Automatic Buddipole will have a
remote control for bandswitching ...
At a Saturday evening dinner, Chris and Budd showed the new
Buddipole Rotor Control Box ...
There also were prototypes of a 100-watt Dummy Load and a new
shock-corded mast ... another product soon to be available is
a capacitive hat ...

No information on availability dates or prices, but you can bet
if these products were shown at Dayton, it won't be too long until 
you can place your order ... 

I got permission to post photos that I took ... 

http://picasaweb.google.com/weymouth67/BuddipoleAtDayton2008 



73, Wey ...
K8EAB"

Stan
KB4IA

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Re: [Elecraft] 1N34A-Diode,RF probe

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

In Europe you could use a OA-02 which is a germanium
diode.

Jean-Claude PJ2BVU


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RE: [Elecraft] 1N34A-Diode,RF probe

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Sorry for the typo: OA-92

PJ2BVU


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RE: [Elecraft] Questio when using a Heil Proset

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi Ross,

Looks like you have to switch OFF the bias. Use Main Menu item MIC SEL to
do that
If the MH2 works OK that means Bias is ON now. For the Heil ProSet (with #4
or #5 dyn. element) you might need the HI range mic gain (you can set that
in the same menu). See p.51 of the Owner's Manual (rev.D).

-- Enno, PF5X
K3 #1263



I have just received my K3 and have been using it on data, and it is
working well,
But I have a problem, when trying to use the Heil Proset it receives ok but
when I try to
use the PTT I get a loud audio noise over the top of my speech, it sounds
like someone
giving a loud "raspberry".
Trying the MH2 hand mic everything works perfectly, there is no noise and
using the monitor,
my speech sounds normal. 
The problem with the Proset also occurs if I try and turn on the K3
manually.

Ideas please, what have I set up incorrectly, or is it the headset?

Regards to all
Ross
ZL1WN


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RE: [Elecraft] Remotely controlling a K2

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Consider using a personal VPN such as Hamachi to tunnel your control
software through.  It is encrypted end-to-end and works very well.

73 john k5js


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[Elecraft] K2/KPA100 40M SSB ALC Problem?

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi All,
My K2 ser no. 4688 and KPA100 bought 11/07 work FB on cw.
On 40m SSB I have noticed a fault condition with my KPA100. On power cycle or 
mode change, if the power control is not set to maximum, but set so the KPA100 
is 'in-line' say 20w. The power output by the KPA100 will be the full power 
output i.e. 100w and not 20w. This is correctly indicated on the K2 power meter 
accompanied with voice peaks coming through the speaker.
You can imagine the problems this causes if driving an amplifier.
This fault condition can be cured by doing either of the following:
1) Select ALC function on the K2 meter.
2) Whilst talking into the microphone vary the power ctrl to full then back 
down to the required power level.
In both cases the ALC suddenly wakes up and brings the power down to 20w.
The worrying thing is that I described this fault condition to another similar 
ser no K2 owner and he tried and found the same thing happening on his. It's 
early days yet and we have yet to get together and really nail down the 
similarities, but I ask you what hardware problem could be sorted by a simple 
front panel key press? I hesitate before suggesting this is a firmware problem 
as so many owners have not noticed this before. Please could any K2 owners of a 
similar ser no try this simple test and post their findings?
Doug GM0ELP
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 in different colors?

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi all,
Any ham with a ham wife will instantly know this is a bad idea. Many a 
time I've bought an item of ham gear that I've wanted under the pretense 
it was for her. If a colour choice is on offer, I'd have to live with whatever 
colour she picks. I just can't imagine having a pink K3 in the shack!

Doug :-)


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[Elecraft] Re: Creative Idea

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hello Julius,

> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8XJHXzchBg

looks like the finger morse key designed by Gerd Lienemann, DF9IV, which
is published i.e. at www.qrp4fun.de/en/s7.htm#key5 . Enjoy it, but don't
use a high voltage transmitter with tubes/valves. Otherwise the first CW
sign with this key is your latest one.

72/73 de Ingo, DK3RED - Don't forget: the fun is the power!


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Re: [Elecraft] PA Temperature Sensor problem

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi Mark,

pls check config:kpa3
it seems to be 'not inst'
it should be 'pa nor'  not  'pa io nor'

73
Thomas, DM7TN

-Original Message-
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 20:55:26 +0100
Subject: [Elecraft] PA Temperature Sensor problem
From: MARK HAMPTON 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Hi all, 
         #579 went together smoothly but I have a little problem with
setting the PA sensor temperature.     I had no problem with setting the
front panel temperature.  However, I moved on to do the PA one and
moving the VFO dial does absolutely nothing - its 2 'dashes' where the
temperature should be.    I haven't updated the firmware yet so that
could possibly be the problem though is there any other possible
problem?

Thanks, Mark M5MDH
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[Elecraft] Solar Panels

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Harbor Freight ('Arbor Fright for our VK readers...HI!) has a 3 panel

setup which comes with a controller and 2, 12 volt compact flourescent

lamps. Claimed power is 45 watts. Usual price is $249.


Got mine at the local Harbor Freight store on sale for $199 and was

able to use a 15% off cupon to reduce the cost to about $180 after

Pennsyslvania and county confiscatory sales taxes.


The stand for the panels is a fixed angle steel device sure to rust

quickly.  I made one of aluminum angle stock with variable angle.


Measured peak power output in mid-summer for my installation is 3 amps
 
(about 39 watts.) The panels appear to have reverse current protection 

diodes.


I regard it as a good value for @ $180.  Were I to do a whole house

system, I'd go with Kyrocera and spend the extra dollars.

72,

Tim Colbert  K3HX
_
Click now to save up to 80% off of cork flooring.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iifg5UDlSIvNh7omeGgsl28OWebJ3vNmoiQfQVWGSM6pebz3M/


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[Elecraft] KRX3 NB & NR functions: when available ?

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi all,

As far as I know the NB (both hardware and DSP) and NR functions (and
probably a few others) are not yet implemented/enabled  for the KRX3 in the
latest (beta) F/W. K3support told me a few weeks ago that it is in the
works. Anyone having a clue when it is coming ??

-- Enno, PF5X
K3 #1263


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[Elecraft] WTB Elecraft K2 Kit

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Do you have an Elecraft K2 kit you don't have time to build and want to sell.  
I am looking for a winter project.  Might consider a recent built K2.  Thanks 
DAN, K3XR

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[Elecraft] Re: Cannot post to Reflector TEST MESSAGE

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi Tim,

As requested this is a test message.

Thanks for your help !

Vic
GW4JUN
- Original Message - 
From: "Tim" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2008 3:08 AM
Subject: Re: Cannot post to Reflector


I see no entries from <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> in our mail server logs 
for the last 2-1/2 weeks.  Vic will need to send a post to the list AND put 
my address in the CC field so I can see what he's doing.


Tim


At 07:05 PM 10/7/2008, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote:

Hi Vic,

You are subscribed properly as [EMAIL PROTECTED] and I see no 
problems with your set up.


I've copied the admin at qth.net to see if they have your ISP blocked for 
some reason. (Usually SPAM.)


73, Eric   WA6HHQ
Elecraft list manager

_..._



[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hi Eric,

Yes I still cannot post from my registered e mail address 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


This is odd since I have successfully posted from this address for three 
years until a year or so ago when I discovered the problem .


I tried registering my new alternative  address also 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] but likewise cannot post.


In both cases I am receiveing the daily digests no problem.

I've no idea what could be causing this .

Any suggestions ?

73,

Vic GW4JUN




----- Original Message - From: "Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 11:47 PM
Subject: Re: Cannot post to Reflector



Hi Vic,

What's interesting is that for some reason my anti-spam filter also
caught your email to me. I just found it. Are you still having problems
posting? (You must always post from the same email address you are
subscribed with.)

73, Eric


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Eric,

I have been subscribed to the reflector for several years but I have
not been able to post messages for quite some time (over a year) .

I tried subscribing from an alternative e mail address but that
doesn't work either !

Is it possible to whitelist me ? Or is it possible I've done something
at this end to screw things up.

Many thanks.

73,

Vic  GW4JUN

[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>





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[Elecraft] OT TEST - Cannot post to reflector

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

TEST for Tim at QTH Admin

Regards,

Vic

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[Elecraft] OT Test - Cannot post to reflector

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Test plain text

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[Elecraft] KBT1

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Howdy,
Almost finished installing the KBT1 to my K1 but got
stumped on the final positive and negative connections.
Can see where each is to go but the instructions say to put the K1 on 
it's left side and solder to the RF board from the underside.  Yet 
there were no instruction to accessing the underside of the RF board.
What am I not geting?
72/73,
John
N0LT

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[Elecraft] KTB1

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Scott,
We talked yesterday about a problem I have with subject kit.
When I did the smoke test(before installing it in the K1)I did get 12 
volts on the Digital VOM.  I then tried to remove the batteries and 
found one batt to be too hot to handle.  Out of curiosity I remeasured 
the voltage and got 11 volts.  When the battery in question cooled 
down I removed it and noted it's casing was separated near the bottom 
of the batt.
My first thought was that I had installed the diode improperly, thus 
my call to you.
There is no rush to get this done.  If you like I could remove the 
switch, diode and wiring harness and send all to you to examine.
72/73,
John

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[Elecraft] Staking Toroids on K2

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

All,
My K2, serial no. 05625 is complete and has been on the air for three
weeks today, but I'm still in the process of adding accessories. I've
mostly run it on 80 and 40 m with excellent results. 

One question I have for the group- Has anyone found a need for
protecting the vertically mounted toroid inductors from mechanical shock
events during portable operations? If so, what staking material is
recommended? I am concerned about degrading exposed conductors with
anything I might use for an adhesive. I think the GE Silicone II
adhesive I have on hand is used for preventing corona or ionization
around high voltage terminals so maybe it would be a good candidate?

73
Mike Mussler
AI8Z
K2 serial 05625 


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[Elecraft] K1 Alignment Question

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

On my new K1, I performed alignment with band noise first and then later on
with a high end signal generator from work. These old ears could not tell
the difference. I would suggest going for it with what you have available.
After all, that is what amateur radio is all about.


mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://link.mail2web.com/mail2web


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[Elecraft] K2 SSB Problem

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi,

I just finished installing the KSB2 module on my K2 QRP version (full 
optional).  I go to operate for the first time but when I push the PTT I get 
this problem:  the current absorbed increases (the voltage decrease) until it 
exceeds the value 4 A (set at this value after some test) and the K2 switch 
off.  The current and the voltage values reading on the K2 display and on the 
multimeter are the same. I have this problem on all band but only in SSB mode 
(K2 works correctly on CW mode with full power 10-13W). The problem is repeated 
every time when I push the PTT. 
I use the microphone Heil MH-2.   
Any suggestions? 

Good weekend 

Ciao,

IZ1DUG, Fabio

K2/QRP #1702 and K2/100 #5909


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB Problem

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi Don thanks for answer.

I checked diodes D3, D4, D5 and are correctly installed.  I make some test 
after the check for supply you more informations.  I turn on the K2 on SSB, I 
push the PTT, speak into microphone and I have : power output OK, the s-meter 
follows the voice but the current increase and arrived at Hi Cur limit (also 
without speak into the microphone). Push the PTT is sufficient for have a 
current absorbed but the wattmeter don’t show any power out.
I hope that these additional information are sufficient to comprise the cause 
of this problem.

Thanks for your help

'73 de IZ1DUG Fabio


-- Initial Header ---

>From  : "Don Wilhelm" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To  : "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc  : "elecraft" elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date  : Sat, 28 Jul 2007 08:17:10 -0400
Subject : Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB Problem







> Fabio,
> 
> I cannot be specific, but the most probable area causing that trouble is 
>   the area of Q2 and Q3 (those direct the BFO signal either to the 
> balanced modulator in SSB mode or back to the RF board for CW) or the 
> balanced modulator U5.
> 
> Check carefully to be certain diodes D5, D4 and D3 are inserted in the 
> proper direction and in the correct holes.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > Hi,
> > 
> > I just finished installing the KSB2 module on my K2 QRP version (full 
> > optional).  I go to operate for the first time but when I push the PTT I 
> > get this problem:  the current absorbed increases (the voltage decrease) 
> > until it exceeds the value 4 A (set at this value after some test) and the 
> > K2 switch off.  The current and the voltage values reading on the K2 
> > display and on the multimeter are the same. I have this problem on all band 
> > but only in SSB mode (K2 works correctly on CW mode with full power 
> > 10-13W). The problem is repeated every time when I push the PTT. 
> > I use the microphone Heil MH-2.   
> > Any suggestions? 
> > 
> > Good weekend 
> > 
> > Ciao,
> > 
> > IZ1DUG, Fabio
> > 
> > K2/QRP #1702 and K2/100 #5909
> 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB Problem

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi Don,

I have found three resistors with a wrong value (R7, R9 and R4). I installed 
the resistors with the correct values but the problem is always present.
The current increase step by step until it does catch up the value 4A and the 
radio gone on Hi current protection when I push PTT on the microphone.
It is possible that the Q1 transistor is the cause of this problem? 

Thanks for your help

'73, IZ1DUG Fabio 

-- Initial Header ---

>From  : "Don Wilhelm" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To  : "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc  : 
Date  : Sat, 28 Jul 2007 15:19:50 -0400
Subject : Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB Problem







> Have you removed C167 from the RF Board?
> If you have removed it, there may be a problem with the ALC circuits on 
> the KSB2 - check D1, D2 - look at the schematic and identify the 
> components associated with Q1 and be certain all have the correct valus 
> and are well soldered.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > Hi Don thanks for answer.
> > 
> > I checked diodes D3, D4, D5 and are correctly installed.  I make some test 
> > after the check for supply you more informations.  I turn on the K2 on SSB, 
> > I push the PTT, speak into microphone and I have : power output OK, the 
> > s-meter follows the voice but the current increase and arrived at Hi Cur 
> > limit (also without speak into the microphone). Push the PTT is sufficient 
> > for have a current absorbed but the wattmeter don´t show any power out.
> > I hope that these additional information are sufficient to comprise the 
> > cause of this problem.
> > 
> > Thanks for your help
> > 
> > '73 de IZ1DUG Fabio
> > 
> > 
> > -- Initial Header ---
> > 
> >>From  : "Don Wilhelm" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > To  : "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Cc  : "elecraft" elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Date  : Sat, 28 Jul 2007 08:17:10 -0400
> > Subject : Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB Problem
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >> Fabio,
> >>
> >> I cannot be specific, but the most probable area causing that trouble is 
> >>   the area of Q2 and Q3 (those direct the BFO signal either to the 
> >> balanced modulator in SSB mode or back to the RF board for CW) or the 
> >> balanced modulator U5.
> >>
> >> Check carefully to be certain diodes D5, D4 and D3 are inserted in the 
> >> proper direction and in the correct holes.
> >>
> >> 73,
> >> Don W3FPR
> >>
> >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >>> Hi,
> >>>
> >>> I just finished installing the KSB2 module on my K2 QRP version (full 
> >>> optional).  I go to operate for the first time but when I push the PTT I 
> >>> get this problem:  the current absorbed increases (the voltage decrease) 
> >>> until it exceeds the value 4 A (set at this value after some test) and 
> >>> the K2 switch off.  The current and the voltage values reading on the K2 
> >>> display and on the multimeter are the same. I have this problem on all 
> >>> band but only in SSB mode (K2 works correctly on CW mode with full power 
> >>> 10-13W). The problem is repeated every time when I push the PTT. 
> >>> I use the microphone Heil MH-2.   
> >>> Any suggestions? 
> >>>
> >>> Good weekend 
> >>>
> >>> Ciao,
> >>>
> >>> IZ1DUG, Fabio
> >>>
> >>> K2/QRP #1702 and K2/100 #5909
> > 
> > 
> > --
> > Scegli infostrada: ADSL gratis per tutta l´estate e telefoni senza canone 
> > Telecom
> > http://click.libero.it/infostrada
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 


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[Elecraft] Samlex SEC 1223

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Quite a few of you are using the Samlex SEC 1223.

I have a European version with 240v input.

There is supposed to be a pair of jumper points inside which allows you to
switch to 120v input. I can't find my handbook . Can anyone confirm the two
jumper point refernces and also where are they located on the board?

Many thanks,

Vic GW4JUN
K2 1926

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[Elecraft] K2 problem with tracking ALC on 40m

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

   Hello,

   i  finished my K2 / KPA 100 including SSB and DSP build last week. The
   build  was  done  without  problems and i am on air. During my tests i
   found one strange thing on 40 m SSB operation.

   Someone  told  me  my  audio  is  not  okay. I recognized : On 40m SSB
   operation  the  output  of  the PA is much higher on normal modulation
   level,  when  i  compare it to other bands. I turned on ALC meter to
   check the the level. ALC was very high. After a short moment the level
   was  adjusted  automaticlly, like described in the documentation. I am
   surprised, why is it adjusted when ALC meter is enabled only ? After
   switch  back  to RF meter, the output is like on the other bands. If i
   switch  to  another  band and go back to 40m the problem is back again
   until i enable my ALC meter.

   Is this a known problem ? Any hints where i can investigate ?

   73 de Joerg (DL3QQ)
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[Elecraft] Thanks to responders on Q about offset and FISTS

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi all
Many thanks to all who helped educate me on K2 offset and FISTS.  The response 
was amazing.  I'm still loving  my # 4758 K2.
 
73 from N4YM, George
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[Elecraft] FS: K1

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

For Sale, K1 sn 0539 built for 20 and 40 meters by N0RC.  Includes KAT1 auto 
tuner, KTS1 stand, Fingerdimple, IPS 2.4 amp switching supply and Samsonite 
camera bag/carry case, $425.00 for all plus shipping.  Can be viewed on 
www.fingerdimple.com modeling a dimple.  I will accept PayPal or postal money 
order only and will not consider trades.

Rig in excellent shape and used very little.

73, Wayne K8FF, Aurora, Ohio

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[Elecraft] No sidetone on K2

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi all
My K2 suddenly lost it's sidetone.  No keying monitor (I use internal keyer), 
and no sound in tune mode.  No offset tone.   It has output to antenna or dummy 
load. 
 
All else seems to work ok.
 
Any help would be appreciated.  
 
Thanks, George, N4YM
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[Elecraft] K2 sidetone is back!!

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

To all who responded with help on sidetone (of lack thereof)
 
I can't believe how much help I received from you guys on the reflector as to  
how to get my sidetone back.  And how fast help came.  Sidetone is bck!  As 
to how I got it back, see w3fpr's, and other's, solution to my problem. 
Editing ST-L by tapping display and resetting to U8-4 did the trick.
 
Thanks to all,
George, N4YM 
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[Elecraft] Jumping K2

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi all
 
My K2 # 4758 has gone strange.  All is well if power is set to less than about 
10 watts.  But lately, if power is set to 12 w or more, it shuts down and emits 
a loud and nasty sounding "howl", which only lasts a moment.  It promptly comes 
back on, but the frequency changes to a previously used frequency.  This was 
not a one time happening, but can be duplicated.  It seems to be so on all 
bands.  The only options I have is the KAF-2, (which I love), and the noise 
blanker.  Other than this problem, all is fine, and I am very pleased with my 
little sweetheart of a rig.  I can understand its shutting down, but why is it 
changing frequency and barking at me??  In its earlier days when it shut down, 
it did so quietly and returned to the same frequency.
 
Any ideas??
 
Tnx and 73,
George, N4YM
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[Elecraft] Jumping K2------> No longer jumping

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Thanks to all who responded to my former problem, which was that my K2 would 
shut down and bark raucusly when power was set to 12 w, or higher; while at the 
same time reverting to a formerly used frequency.
 
I switched to a higher capacity power supply, and have not been able to 
duplicate the problem.  I trust the problem is resolved.  The weaker power 
supply must have been shutting down momentarily upon overload, although I could 
not detect it through metering.  So, all is well at the moment.  The little rig 
did fine during the CQ WW test, to my great satisfaction.
 
And now, special thanks to my good friend Roy, W4WFB, who suggested the power 
supply was the culprit.  I have dubbed him my Elecraft Wizard.  He is one of 
Elecraft's biggest boosters, and it was because of his love for K2s that I 
bought #4758 in the first place.
 
It is amazing how much help is available on the reflector, and how quickly it 
comes.  Thanks again, everyone.
 
73, George, n4ym
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 problems...

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hello Mike,

the problem sound familar to me. When i build KAT100 everything worked
fine for some hours. After a while same problem like you described
appeared on my KAT100. 

One relay click sounds a bit different and i could not match all bands
anymore. I thought a relay would be not okay, but the reason was a
defect in one of the small condensators connected to a relay. 

How i identified the component :

I turned ATU to Cal mode and meassured voltages on all 6B595 pins
connected to a relay. I found one voltage below power supply voltage.
After replacing the condensator it was working fine again.

It happends two times allready that a small condensator failed in my
KAT100.
 

73 de Joerg (DL3QQ)

-Original Message-
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 16:36:02 +0100
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT100 problems...
From: "Mike Sexsmith" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net


Hello all,

  I have a K2 setup (#4819) with the 100 watt tuner/amplifier in
separate 
EC2 enclosure. Things have been FB for 3-4 months, but recently while
using 
100 watts the tuner is unable to get below a 9.9 SWR on 80 meters, even 
though other bands tune fine. KAT100 Tuner also does not seem to
remember 
tune settings anymore when returning to a previously tuned frequency. It

will retune from scratch each time...  I rotated through the relays and
all 
seem to click ok, although the relay for 80 m seems to sound slightly 
different...When using just the base K2 separated from EC2 the KAT2
internal 
tuner works fine and remembers settings. Board parts placement and 
solderwork appears ok.

   Is the relay itself the most likely culprit, or should I be looking
at 
something else first?

Could someone please point me towards things to check in order of 
likelyhood? Thanks for any help!


Mike Sexsmith
W7MSX


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Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 users ?

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Don Brown  KD5NDB wrote,"It is also the best way to strip and tin toroid
leads short of ordering them from Mychael the torid guy." 

I appreciate the mention, Don. I am feeling rather torrid today!

Mychael AA3WF
K2# 1025


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[Elecraft] Sidetone level too low

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

I could use more sidetone volumn when transmitting.  My shack gets kinda noisy 
at times.  The level is currently set for max,  255, I think.  
 
Anyone know how to boost it??
 
73, N4ym, George
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RE: [Elecraft] ECN 12-12-05 Report(s)

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

> WHERE WAS THE EAST COAST??? I heard NO(!) signals from anyone from 
> the east... and as it turned out, only a few from the west... but at 
> least a few nonetheless.


 I tried to QNI ECN 20m Sunday night but not a peep was heard from any
 station 30 minutes b4 net and onward. 

 73,

Mychael AA3WF
K2#1025

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[Elecraft] color codes for SMD capacitors

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I have several SMD capacitors and have no idea how to identify them.  Each one 
is in a very tiny package, which seems to be color coded, but no clue as to 
what the colors mean..
I have pink, yellow, green and blue packages.  The capacitors themselves all 
look alike, with no markings on them.  Do the colors mean anything?
Any help would be appreciated.  
 
George, N4YM
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[Elecraft] SKN, SFN?

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It seems to me that by now, SKN is dangerously close to becoming Straight Face 
Night (SFN).
Which brings up yet another question: If I build a mechanical key to send with 
my left foot (QLF, that is), will it be a legal device for SFN... err... I mean 
SKN?
Dave, W6KOW, K2 S/N 5120
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 registry...

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Wonder if Elecraft has considered a "rig Registry" page on their  >site.




Thom LaCosta, k3hrn, has already done so, look at his web site : 
http://www.zerobeat.net/


Rich  k2cpe
K2 #1102




Wonder if Elecraft has considered a "rig Registry" page on their  site.

 



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[Elecraft] OT - troubleshooting NIR-12

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hello:

 

I know this has nothing to do with Elecraft gear, but having built the 3
radios, I knew this is the place to come for experienced troubleshooters. I
have an old JPS NIR-12 DSP unit, that, after applying power, decided to
quit. The power lamp will not now light. This unit does not have a fuse. So
I decided to get out the DVM and attempt to see what's going on. 

 

The DC power jack goes to a T-network consisting of two 0.1 uf caps with a
bead inductor before going to a DPDT switch. Beyond this is a 0.1 uf cap in
parallel to ground and then a series 1N4004 rectifier diode to a 1000 uf
electrolytic capacitor in parallel to ground. From there it branches to a
couple of  voltage regulators to get different voltages. When voltage is
applied, I get 13.7 volts on the cathode side of the diode, but zero on the
anode side (and beyond). I initially thought that this diode was at fault
and desoldered it and replaced it with another 1N4004. But, alas, this was
not the culprit. I desoldered the 1000uf electrolytic, but my capacitance
meter reads it correctly at 1000uf.

 

Can somebody help shed some light - voltage ? - here ?

 

Thanks - 

 

73, Jamie

WB4YDL

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[Elecraft] Cure for oxidized contacts (CAIG)

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Try a product called CAIG Deoxit.  Best I've used.  Radio Shack sells for (it 
ain't cheap) about $15 for a small spray can somewhat bigger than a man's 
thumb.  The package also contains an equally small can of stuff for gold 
contacts.  It will rejuvenate old flashlites.  I used it on the plug which 
connects my RV to my truck and the  electris brakes seem to work better.  RS 
also sells a Deoxit pen which would work better if you can access the worksite 
easily.
 
If anyone knows of a source of larger cans please let me know.  Hope this is 
not a dupe. Tried to send earlier.
 
George, N4YM
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[Elecraft] K2 relay circuit?

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Does any have a switching circuit for a K2 that will activate the relay in an 
amplifier? My 11-year-old Kenwood is in for a repair, and it may be a while 
before it's back in the shack. In the meantime, I'm driving an Ameritron 
ALS-500M solid state amplifier with 7 watts from my K2.
That works well but requires me to key the amp relay (I use a pushbutton on a 
cord) as I key the K2 with the mic's PTT switch.
The voltage on the amp keying line is 10 V DC, and the current when keying the 
amp is 120 mah.
Dave, W6KOW
K2 # 5120. Sometime in the six few months I'll build the K2 100-watt internal 
amp.
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[Elecraft] Sidetone questions -- copy speed vs sidetone pitch

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I understand the reason a lower pitch ST would be easier to copy when qrm is 
present, due to the percentage difference matter.  My question concerns what 
pitch is easier to copy when receiving fast cw when no qrm is present.I 
seem to remember seeing a post on this matter some time in the past, in which 
it was stated that pitch makes a difference, but have been unable to find in 
the archives.  Anyone remember it?
Also, it seems my K2 pitch volumn has a "hole" around 550 to 625, in that the 
level is not as loud in this range, when using the K2 internal spkr.  I do not 
notice this "hole" nearly as much when using my Kenwood spkr.  I do not mean to 
knock my fine lil k2.  My Kenwood internal speaker is no better, only the 
external speaker is better.  Anyone else experience the "hole"?
 
Seems like it would be nice if Elecraft came out with a neat seperate speaker.  
 
Any one care to comment??
 
George, n4ym
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[Elecraft] OLD Fluke 77 meter parts

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Please forgive non Elecraft submission, but I have exhausted other means of 
help.  Fluke was no help whatsoever.  The meter is +15 yrs old and parts hard 
to find.
 
Through a dumb operator error, I blew the 1 k, 2 watt fusible resistor, and 
need another one.  I am using a 1 k, 2 watt plain resistor now, with no 
overload protection.   I do not know the value of the fusible feature.  Does 
anyone have an idea on this?  Maybe I could put a fuse in series with the plain 
resistor, if I knew what value to use.  The Fluke manual does not specify fuse 
value.
 
Anyone know of a source for this part?  I love this fine old meter, and would 
love to fix it properly. 
73 from George, n4ym
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[Elecraft] Buzzy K2 speaker

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

My K2 had a very irritating buzz (sympathetic vibration) at about 400 hz.  I 
noticed if I pressed on the top cover, it quit.  No amount of adjusting the 
four speaker mounting screws worked.  That ruled out the speaker itself, I 
reckoned.  So, I took the top off, turned it upside down and put pieces of "Q 
Pad around the speaker, covering most of the vacant area.   Hot dog!   Buzz 
went away.  
 
Q Pads are +/- 3/32 inch thick fibrous pads with one sticky side, are used in 
cars to quieten vibrating panels and can be found at professional auto paint 
stores.  Used 'em on my old Ford diesel and quietened it down.  CAVEAT:  Since 
the pads are kinda heavy, and are hanging from the top panel, I can't vouch for 
how long they will stay stuck.  They did stay stuck to the bottom of my old 
diesel's oil pan for years and may still be there.  I traded the truck.   
However, they work so well if they drop down, I will figure some way to hold em 
up.  My ohmmeter says they are nonconductive.  The pads come in packs of 
several roughly 10" sq pads.  Maybe a friendly hot rod shop would sell just 
one, which is more than enough area.
 
Another idea is to affix 1/8 in thick aluminum pieces with contact cement.
 
73 from N4YM, George  
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Gearing up to build - where to get tools?

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Keith,

Look here :  http://www.micromark.com/  .Micro Mark specializes in 
small tools for hobbyistsand they have small 
cutters,pliers,soldering tips, etc. Also,get/use an anti static wrist strap.


Rich   k2cpe
K2  #1102

Darwin, Keith wrote:


Hey folks,


I'm thinking I need the following and wonder if there is a preferred
place to get them at a fair price?
 - Solder
 - Small side cutters
 - Small needle nose pliers
 - Other tips for the weller
 - Helping hands parts holder
 - Solder braid (for desoldering)

Where should I get these things?  What else do I need?

- Keith KD1E -

 


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[Elecraft] K2 frequency drift

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Two questions for the group:
1. My K2, serial 5120, has worked flawless since I built it last fall...except 
that about a week ago, friends on a 20m net I work daily said I was low about 
40 Hz in frequency. (Frequency calibration checked occasionally against both my 
external counter and WWV had been right on.) I transmitted first maybe 2 
minutes after turning the rig on. So I dialed up about 40 Hz (.04 kHz) to get 
on frequency. In the next 15 minutes, I had to move the indicated frequency 
down slowly to the exact net freq. Drift was the obviously the problem. 
Since then, I've turned the K2 on early and found that by net time, it was on 
the exact frequency on the LCD. However, just after turning it on (room temp 
constand at about 68F), tuning WWV on 10 MHz (equalizing the stations's audio 
tone on USB and LSB) shows I'm low by 40-50 Hz, drifting up to indicated freq. 
in 15-20 minutes.
I know that resistors RA and RD on the thermister board control drift rate, and 
some months ago there were comments here on how to compensate, but I didn't 
retain the thread. Anybody care to provide that advice again or new comments?
2. I'm currently building a KPA100 internal amplifier kit, and I'm wondering if 
the added heat creates drift or frequency calibration problems.
Dave Martin
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[Elecraft] Access to Mic. AF

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What's the best way to get at the mic. AF line without going through the mic. 
connector?

I want to use it for audio input from the soundcard for data modes.

Thanks and 73

Bob
2M0KDZ


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[Elecraft] Maximum power output on K2 in digital modes

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I see that the advised maximum is 5 watts for RTTY.  Is it possible to run up 
to 10W for:

a) contest RTTY where the average QSO length is less than a minute?
b) lower duty modes eg PSK31, MFSK and Olivia?

What limits the power, anyway? Is it cooling or the rating of the output 
transistors?

73

Bob
2M0KDZ

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Re: [Elecraft] Wow, antennas really do matter

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Yesit is a compromise...all short antenna are.but it did very 
well in the HFPack antenna "shootout", a comparision test of various 
portable antennas. See info on the HFPack web site :  
http://hflink.com/hfpack/index.html


Rich  k2cpe
K2 #1102

Mark Saunders, KJ7BS wrote:

Ok, I've read about the PAC-12 antenna.. 

What is its performance?. 

 


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[Elecraft] K2 #5339 - deaf on 10 & 12m

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Well, it's built! KSB2 and KIO2 installed and run fine.

Only one problem so far - it's deaf on 10 & 12m. It's probably the LP or BP 
filters, but I'm not entirely sure.

I tried the transmitter alignment on these two bands and couldn't get any more 
than 0.7 watts on the power display before the Hi-Cur warning came up. I had a 
very close look at all the soldered connections around the K10 relay and re-did 
them. I also checked the continuity of L21 & L22. I then repeated the TX 
alignment and the power display got beyond 2 watts without the Hi-Cur warning. 
Only problem: the power meter on my ATU didn't register anything.

Signal tracing is probably the best way of getting at a solution, but I don't 
have access to a signal generator.

I would appreciate any help. 

73

Bob 
2M0KDZ


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[Elecraft] Containers for sorting parts

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I already built K2 #4758, and getting ready to start a KPA 100 kit.  To sort 
the K2 parts, I used plastic utility  boxes with divided bins, and had no 
problem with the K2, but wonder if I was just lucky in that no solid state 
stuff  got damaged, to my knowledge.  I did put loose transistors in the 
plastic boxes, but  all solid state stuff which came on the safety mat was not 
placed in any container before installation.  I  used an egg carton which was 
expanded polystyrene? for the hardware, and heard later this stuff is prone to 
build up static electricity.  Was it risky to put hardware in the egg carton?   
I'm thinking it's not safe to have it anywhere on the bench.   I always use an 
ESD wrist strap, and an ESD safe Hakko  936 iron, by the way.
 
So, what is the preferred safe container??  Is the semi hard plastic utility 
box ok?  I don't have any metal containers which are suitable..
 
Love my K2.  It still amazes me after 8 mos of great service.  In the ARRL dx 
test, it scored  many EU stations on cw while running only 2 watts, using my 
Telrex 20m mono bander (which is about 50 yrs old) fed with 27 yr old Belden RG 
213 coax.  And I seldom had to call stations more than once.   Go figger!  It's 
also the only rig I ever had which draws unsolicited compliments on the nice cw 
note. Thanks, Elecraft, and thanks to you guys on the reflector who helped me 
previously.  I have been hamming for 51 years, and am having fun again!  Viva 
Elecraft!
Any suggestions on storage/sorting bins ?
 
Thanks, and 73 from George, N4YM
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Blimp

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I can relate to porpoising in a blimp. Friends of mine were volunteer pilots of 
the Fujifilm blimp, and I got to fly it twice. There's a yoke control for pitch 
and rudder steering, and to keep it flying level, you are always moving the 
yoke slowly--often to full extremes--to counter the natural unstable wanderings 
of the nose in two axes. Even without any boost, moving the garage-door-size 
elevators and rudders at the 26-knot cruising speed was not difficult, but it 
sure isn't anything like flying an airplane. The British AKS-600 Fujifilm blimp 
was the largest blimp ever manufactured, and the company is out of business now.
--Dave Martin, W6KOW, K2 05120
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Re: [Elecraft] Airships...

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Regarding getting permission to use amateur radio in an aircraft, it helps to 
know the captain. (See my other posting about flying the Fujifilm blimp.) My 
last flight in the Fuji blimp was flying around San Diego for 4 hours on the 
last day of 1996. The co-captains were hams, as were six of the seven 
passengers. Four of us had 2m handhelds, and we entertained ourselves and 
others on simplex and through area repeaters during the flight.
--Dave, W6KOW
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[Elecraft] Toroid stuff

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Is it ok if a bare portion of the winding touches the toroid?  A fellow K2 
buildr says ok.  And the pix of the KPA 100 show the wire stripped bare right 
up on the toroid.
Also, KPA 100 manual says pull wire tight, which is tough if you have arthritis 
in your basilar (thumb) joint, as I have.  So, I am using pliers to tighten 
things up.  This OK?  Seems that if I pull too hard the insulation might be 
damaged and let the wire make electrical contace with the form.   Wonder why 
Elecraft did not mention use of pliers as a way to get snug windings?  Mebbe 
not OK?  Seems to depend on answer to my first question.  
 
Thanks, and 73, from N4YM
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[Elecraft] KPA 100 transistors Q3 and Q4 (Substitution)

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Howdy all
 
Manual calls for KPA 100 transistors Q3 andQ4 to be MJE 182, in a  TO-225 
package.  I received none.  But I did receive  two pieces marked JE1112, (also 
marked 443), in a TO-225 configuration.
 
Anyone know if the JE1112 is equivalent to MJE 182  Hope so, because they 
are soldered in.  
 
If Elecraft is listening, it woulda been nice to put a note in the package, 
when stuff is being substituted.  Otherwise, I'm having fun again with this 
fine kit.
 
Thanks in advance, N4YM, happy owner of K2 # 4758
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[Elecraft] KX1 antenna ideas for 80-40-30-20?

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When Elecraft came out with the 30/80 board to increase operating bands to 
80,40,30 &20, I bought the mod and the AT kit that goes with the KX1.  They 
haven't arrived yet so I still have time to think about antennas for 
portable-backpacking.  The usual 29' wire with the 16' counterpoise would work 
well with 40,30 & 20.  80 presents a problem as SWR would be quite high ebven 
with the ATU.  Other than building a seperate 80M antenna, anyone have any 
ideas for one antenna for all bands with decent 
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[Elecraft] More power for K2

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I came into a cheap old Yaesu FP 107E power supply which works fine, except for 
somewhat low voltage output.  I notice the transformer has several taps, but 
I'm afraid to mess with it, since I have no manual.  
 
I would be beholden to anyone who has a manual for this unit, and would be so 
kind as to send info on how to change the taps for higher voltage.  Also, a 
copy of the schematic would be nice.  
 
Many thanks, George, N4YM
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 knob - what are the options?

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

I bought a knob off of e-bay that was advertised for the K2 and other
rigs.  It fits the shaft fine but is too shallow so it sticks out from
the face of the rig. 
 


--

The FT100 knob has a plastic "pin" (mold sprue) in the center of the 
shaft hole that must be snapped off (used a small screwdriver) to let 
the knob seat all the way on the shaft. Check to see if your ebay knob 
is the same. As to what is best...strictly a matter of your preference. 
I like the FT100 knobgave away my stock K2 knob to someone who was 
going to experiment machining off the ridge on the rim.never heard 
how that worked out.


Rich  k2cpe
K2 #1102
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft at Dayton

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Don,

I've been following the progress of the coming new 800watt and 1500 watt 
amps, but you mention a "QRP amp".did I miss something?


Rich  k2cpe
K2 #1102
--

Don Wilhelm wrote:


Julius,

It is a good guess that the new QRP amp will be there on display 

 


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[Elecraft] KPA100 No PA PS??

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I have had the basic K2 up and going for a while, and have been using it
while I build the KPA100.  Got the KPA100 built and all the inital tests
were fine on RX.  I came down to the shack today (school club statio) to
align the TX (since I don't have a 50w dummy load at home) and I ran into a
problem.  

I was adjusting C1 and all was fine.  OK, on to the next step.  I had the
plastic handled screwdriver in my hand while reading the manual, and I
dropped it.  Right into the opened KPA100.  A couple sparks went flying. 
It looks like it hit the ground jumper on the front of the board since
there is a black spot on it.  Who knows what else it hit.

Here's the problem.  Ever since then, I get the NO PA PS message, even
without a PS connected to the K2.  I can just plug in the PS to the KPA100,
and it turns on.  I also get audio from my antenna connected to the KPA100.
There is no antenna connected to the K2.  Then after the NO PA PS message
goes away, the audio goes to zero (no antenna) but the rig stays on. 
Connecting the antenna to the K2 shows that it reverts back to the K2
antenna port.  *BUT* it doesn't do this ALL the time.  The other times I
turn it on, it just thinks the KPA100 is gone entirely, and I don't get a
NO PA PS message.  It just turns on and is silent.  Again, this is with
EVERYTHING plugged into the KPA100.  The speaker works all the time.  

Any ideas???  I am thinking (hoping?) it's just a chip that I can order
easily.  Where should I start testing?

Thanks,
Chris KL9A


----
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .


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[Elecraft] Antenna feedline question

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

I use 450 ohm ladder line to feed a 130 ft inverted vee.  But, I don't bring 
the 450 ohm line into the shack.  I stop it at the eave of my roof, where it is 
terminated in a 4:1 balun.  From the balun to  my homebrew tuner, I use a piece 
of RG 213, which is approx 10 ft long.  In other words, the RG 213 is all that 
comes into the shack.  The 450 ohm ladder line is about 65 feet long and the 
apex of the inverted vee is about 70 feet up.  
 
This setup gives 1:1 swr, for all practical purposes, on all bands except 160, 
and works great on 75-80, 40, 30 and 17 meters.  I have monoband beams for 20, 
15 and 10 meters, so can't vouch for those bands as far as effectiveness is 
concerned when compared to coax fed dipoles. 
 George, N4YM 
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[Elecraft] Hey, you Dayton hf attendees

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Can't believe no one has mentioned the new amps.  I await opinions of the amps. 
 Are you attendees so QRP you didn't even look at em??  Let's hear it from you 
QRO guys.  I'd like to know your opinion.  Any mention of when they will be for 
sale?  
 
I really like what I have seen and heard so far on the reflector and want one 
in my shack.
 
73, George, n4ym 
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Re: [Elecraft] QRO

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Ten Tec also sells ready made enclosures, steel or aluminum : 
http://www.tentec.com/


Rich  k2cpe
K2 #1102
---



Brian F. Wruble wrote:

 I have always wanted to try building one of those big amplifiers. 
One thing
that stops me is that I have no idea where you get or how you build 
all the

"sheet metal" parts --- complicated pieces of chassis, etc.  Anybody out
there who knows how people manage to build or source these?





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Re: [Elecraft] Way OT - eBay - HELP

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

I disagree about "do not worry about them", if you respond it can lead 
to idenity theft and no end of problems. The senders are thieves and 
doing nothing just helps them succed. Best is to follow previously 
posted advice and  forward them to [EMAIL PROTECTED] (or [EMAIL PROTECTED]), don't 
change anything, just forward as is. That way you are helping 
ebay/paypal track down the offenders and maybe reduce and/or eventually 
eliminate the miscreants. Just my 2cents opinion.


Rich  k2cpe
K2 #1102




---
I agree about eBay and others being Computer Black Holes.  If they 
really want your response, they will send your a letter via the postal 
service.  Mostly, do not worry about them.

Best,



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[Elecraft] KAF2 vs DSP

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

I only have the KAF 2 filter, and have never heard the DSP, but I am very happy 
with the KAF 2.  If anything,  position 2 boosts the cw signal, and I don't 
find any ringing on the cw note.  I never use the KAF2 on SSB .  I consider the 
KAF well worth the money, especially since I got it used at a good price.
 
George, N4ym
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[Elecraft] K2 power control

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

   Hi,

   I  need  some  help.  I  can  not  adjust  my power anymore when K2 is
   connected   to   the  100  W  PA.  The  PA  is  overloaded  and  power
   meter shows 200 watt !!!

   I tried  to switch off  PA in menu, but in this ca   running with maximum 
QRP power. 

   I assume something goes wrong with VRFDET.

   If I disconnect th
   How could I investigate to find the reason for this fault ?

   73 de Joerg (DL3QQ)
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 power control

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Don,

I checked the voltages during quick keydown.

U5 pin 5 2,5 V
U5 pin 7 2,5 V
U6 pin 3 2,5 V
U6 pin 6 0,06 V

It looks like U6 is killed. Pin 6 does not show 2,5 V during transmit. I
think I know what was happend ;-) 

I soldered a new cable for my KAT100 tuner to extent the length. I
forgot to disconnect the AUX connector from K2 side. Pin 6 of U6 is
connected to pin  7 of the AUX I/O port.

I will replace U6 and test again.


73 de Joerg (DL3QQ) 

-Original Message-
Date: Sun,  4 Jun 2006 04:30:01 +0200
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 power control
From: "Don Wilhelm" 
To: , "Elecraft" 

Joerg,

You either have something wrong with the wattmeter in the KPA100 or have
something wrong in the path from the wattmeter forward power circuit to
the
VRFDET output from the KPA100.

During a quick keydown period (with only the base K2 powered or with the
PA
turned off in the menu), check the following points on the KPA100 (in
order)to determine at which point the voltage disappears - these should
all
be DC voltages - you should expect about 4 volts when the base K2 is
developing 10 watts or more:

U5 pin 5
U5 pin 7
U6 pin 3
U6 pin 6

U6 pin 6 is the KKPA100 output signal for the VRFDET line, and if you
have
voltage to that point, look for an open in the ribbon cable (pin 10).

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
>    I  need  some  help.  I  can  not  adjust  my power anymore when K2
is
>    connected   to   the  100  W  PA.  The  PA  is  overloaded  and
 power
>    meter shows 200 watt !!!
>
>    I tried  to switch off  PA in menu, but in this ca=e it is still
>    running with maximum QRP power. 
>
>    I assume something goes wrong with VRFDET.
>
>    If I disconnect th= PA from K2 power adjustment works fine.
>
>    How could I investigate to find the reason for this fault ?
>
>    73 de Joerg (DL3QQ)
>




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[Elecraft] Computer interfaces

[John's email]

While I agree with Don about desktop space, I have a tower machine and a wall 
mounted 23 inch monitor that take up no space on my operating desk, I have zero 
serial ports. I have 8 USB ports with my K3, KPA500' my SteppIR controller, a 
USB headset for Skype, a receiver for my weather station, a link interface for 
my Great Planes Flight Simulator and a couple of spares. All of them work just 
fine. I haven't used any EIA 232 ports in years. 

John. KE4D

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[Elecraft] AGMs

[John's email]

Gary, I put AGMs in my RV in 2003. I rewired the coach so all circuits except 
the ac units ran off of my inverter. I ran my computer and a number of radios 
including my first K2 off of that not true sine wave inverter powered by my 
AGMs until 2011. I figured 8 years was pretty good on those $180 each 
batteries. ( I have 350 watts of solar panels). When I attempted to replace 
those AGMs in 2011 I found that the price had doubled. I can't justify $1200 
for four batteries on a 13 year old coach. Since we are not fulltimers anymore 
I just went back to flooded lead acid. However I still have the same inverter 
and intend to run my K3 with it. Besides, with the $800 I saved by not buying 
new AGMs I can buy more Elecraft stuff. 
FYI, several of my fulltimer buddies are closing in on 10 years of life with 
their AGMs.  We all had or have Lifeline batteries. 

John ke4d. 

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[Elecraft] Kx3

[John's email]

Me too. After 2 K1s 3 K2s and a K3KPA500, none of which I still own, I too, 
ordered a Kx3 this weekend. Added the ATU, battery charger and roofing filter 
options. Hopefully it will arrive late this week. Should be fun. 

de ke4d

John

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[Elecraft] PTT

[John's email]

I used a heil headset with a footswitch when I had a K3. I use the same set up 
with my FTDX1200 and have a Yamaha C500 headset and footswitch that I use with 
my KX3. I never use Vox, haven't for 41 years. I also take a hand mike with me 
in the RV. 

De KE4D
John

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[Elecraft] 4band K1

[John's email]

Yep, I bought a used K1 based on the Elecraft website which still has the 4 
band board listed. After I bought the rig I realized there was no price on the 
order form for the 4 band board. I wrote an email to Elecraft Sales and was 
told some of the parts for that board became scarce so no more. My suggestion 
would be to remove the board feom the website entirely. However, its my second 
K1 and I intend to hang on to it. Now I just need to decide what to build to 
pick up a few more bands.   Yeah, I know but I already built two K2s and a K3  
so I'm aiming a little lower this time. Maybe a KX1. 

de ke4d
John

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 181, Issue 4

[Email Service]

After an Orion, O2–now 2 K3’s, I want an O3!

See no possibility of anO3.

The K3 is a super radio until one hears clicking in earphones while running 7QP 
in full breakin.

That was not a factor in the O’s.

For those of us with bigger hands/fingers the K3 is not optimum. Also too many 
menus.

Nothing on the present market suits me, though the K3 is on my desk.

Make a K4 bigger with many fewer menus. I am not interested in hauling my radio 
around the world, so bigger suits me just fine.

Add solid state keying to reduce clicking especially in earphones.

I am a CW op. Give me an optimized CW rig with FSK and for others SSB.

Jack AK7O

Sent from XFINITY Connect App



-- Original Message --

From: elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: May 5, 2019 at 1:53 PM
Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 181, Issue 4

Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to elecraft@mailman.qth.net To subscribe 
or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit 
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft or, via email, send a message 
with subject or body 'help' to elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net You can reach 
the person managing the list at elecraft-ow...@mailman.qth.net When replying, 
please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of 
Elecraft digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Prospective K4 (Dave Sublette) 2. 
Re: Prospective K4 (Macy monkeys) 3. Just like -but-  (Ken G Kopp) 4. Re: 
Prospective K4 (Grant Youngman) 5. Re: Prospective K4 (Drew AF2Z) 6. Re: 
Prospective K4 (Bert Craig) 7. Re: Prospective K4 (Wayne Burdick) 8. Re: 
Prospective K4 (W1GO (Joe)) 9. Re: Prospective K4 (Gary K9GS) 10. KX3 signal 
source (Frederick Dwight) 11. Re: Prospective K4 (Wayne Burdick) 12. Re: 
Prospective K4 (Wes) 13. Re: Prospective K4 (Mike Markowski) 14. Re: 
Prospective K4 (Bill Steffey) 15. Re: Prospective K4 (Wayne Burdick) 16. Re: 
Prospective K4 (Scott Manthe) 17. Re: Prospective K4 (John Oppenheimer) 18. Re: 
Prospective K4 (Rose) 19. Re: Prospective K4 (Szab? Istv?n) 20. Re: Prospective 
K4 (turnbull) 21. Elecraft SSB Net for Sunday April 28-2019 (Eric Lanzl) 22. 
Elecraft SSB Net log 5-5-2019 (Eric Lanzl) 
-- Message: 
1 Date: Sun, 5 May 2019 11:42:16 -0400 From: Dave Sublette To: Elecraft 
Discussion List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Prospective K4 Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" My personal opinion is Flex is too 
much computer. I hate computers. My operating time has done n nothing but 
decrease since I bought a computer. This is ham RADIO, not ham computer. And 
while I'm at it, You kids get off my lawn!! 73, Dave, K4TO On Sun, May 5, 2019 
at 11:37 AM Joseph Trombino, Jr wrote:>Howdy Gang.>>I?ve built and owned 
Elecraft gear since 1999.>>Still have my KX3 and KX2.>>I bought a Flex 6600M 
rig and it was the best radio I?ve owned in years.>>But Flex messed with the 
firmware to where if you were in full QSK mode>and used the internal ATU a loud 
relay would start clicking when sending CW>characters, messing with the 
normally quiet QSK changeover from RX to TX.>>The reason given for this 
firmware change was that when the ATU was>engaged in full QSK mode the receive 
signals would be 10db down as opposed>to zero db loss without the tuner in 
line.>>To be honest I never noticed this problem but Flex, in all of 
their>wisdom, made the disruptive change.>>IMHO this firmware change completely 
ruined a very FB CW rig.>>Perhaps the folks at Flex are not as CW-centric as 
the Elecraft folks.>>In terms of a K4 I would certainly love to see a beautiful 
8? or large>front panel display.>>This is the direction all modern radios are 
going?.just look at the>YaeCommWood offerings plus the Sun MB1 rig.>>While the 
P3 and PX3 displays are OK, a full 8? or larger hi-res display>is breathtaking 
and extremely useful.>>So, why not a K4 with a big hi-res screen?>>I?m ready 
for it?make it happen!!>>73, Joe W2KJ>I QRP, therefore I aim>>>>>On May 5, 
2019, at 11:16 AM, Rose wrote:>>>>Bert,>>>>Then why not just purchase the 
Flex?>>>>73 !>>>>K0PP>>>>On Sun, May 5, 2019, 09:11 Bert Craig wrote:>>>>>I'm 
in the comparison stage of planning my next, and likely final, 
HF>rig>>>purchase. While researching my options, I came across this comment 
on>the>>>Flex reflector. (See link below.) It occurs to me that the next 
logical>>>progression from the K3S might likely be something along the lines of 
a>>>FlexRadio 6600M, but optimized for the discerning CW enthusiast. 
I'd>>>personally love to see a K4 along those lines. Any thoughts or 
opinions?>>>>>>https://community.flexradio.com/

[Elecraft] Amp/tuner

[John's email]

While I tend to operate QRP most of the time, I do have a KPA 100 with my KX3.  
When out in my RV I.  When I had a K3 I also had a KPA 500. I have the 20 watt 
tuner in the KX3 for picnic table ops. I use an SGC smart tuner in my rv and at 
home I have a SteppIR antenna that is always resonant no matter where I 
operate. I'd have to go along with the optional tuner in a big amp. It would do 
me no good to have a fixed tuner in the amp.  I did not order that tuner in my 
KPA 100. 
I am sure there are many others who have no need for a tuner but others who do. 
The simple and elegant solution is an optional add on tuner 

de ke4d


John

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[Elecraft] Shipping. K3

[John's email]

I had a similar experience. I sent my K3 back to the factory a couple of weeks 
ago. When I took it to the UPS shipper here, he had to call UPS  for special 
instructions since the declared valued was so high. I had it packed in the box 
Elecraft sent it back to me the last time I sent it in. UPS made me take it 
home and double box it. The cost to ship it UpS ground from TX was $78. It's on 
its way back to me now, I am sure in the single box with foam padding from 
Elecraft and the cost is in the mid $30 range. I'm not sure if it's the 
insurance or what but it's a big difference in both packaging and cost. 


John KE4D

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[Elecraft] TSA

[John's email]

I when I deployed with FEMA my luggage was always inspected. One way flights 
booked at the last minute is a definite trigger. I always carried my radio gear 
in a backpack and carried  it on. Never had an issue. Now they questioned the 
sandbag plate I used to carry for a GPS. Couldn't figure out what it was. Even 
explaining it didn't always bring quick understanding but the radios were never 
a problem. 

John ke4d

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[Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

[John's email]

Rather than lithium ion I'd use AGM batteries. I had four of them in my motor 
home for about 8 years when I was on the road fulltime. They cost about twice 
as much as a flooded lead acid but are safe enough to ship by air etc. they 
last a long time, and are perfect for a "green" solution. I charged mine with 
350 watts do solar panels on my RV and could boondocked for several weeks  
without running my Genset. AGMs make a great addition to a shack. They can live 
inside your house without worry and you have none of the problems associated 
with lithium ion. My k3 ran just fine off of my solar panels, AGMs and inverter 
when I was on the road. 

John KE4D

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[Elecraft] AGMs

[John's email]

I used my AGMs for house batteries in my motorhome not for starting. AGMs are 
mostly used in rvs for house battery duties. Also boats and airplanes. In my 
opinion they are the perfect battery for green stations. That are basically 
advanced gel cells. I got over 8 years out of mine so I'm not sure longetivity 
should be an issue. The upside of using them with your K line is that they can 
sit right in your shack with no issues of out gassing etc. when I bought mine 
back in 03, the guy brought on out and dumped it upside down on the ground. You 
can't do that with flooded lead acid batteries. With a good inverter your k 
rigs will run just fine. 

John ke4d 

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[Elecraft] End of the world and the KX3

[John's email]

Don, I thought you would get more comments too. However, apparently it's more 
important for folks to acquire a hobby radio than face the end of the world. I 
certainly understand the thrill of getting a new rig.  However, as I learned 
many years ago, this is still a hobby and no matter how anxious one is about 
the new rig, it's not all that important on the road of life!  

John

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[Elecraft] KPA500 buttons

[John's email]

No problem here. The operate/standby button is at the bottom of the white 
"goalpost". No problem figuring it out. Alternately, you can run the utility 
and manipulate the buttons from your computer!  

John. KE4D
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[Elecraft] Sub receiver

[John's email]

Ok guys, I get it. I've always worked split with dual vfos but I see the 
advantage of the ability to hear the other guys instead of shooting blind and 
hoping the dx staion picks me up. 
If you don't have something, you don't know you need it!  I'll put the sub 
receiver on the "buy" list. 
(should have asked more for my K2)

John ke4d
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[Elecraft] 15 meters

[John's email]

The 15 m Novice band was the band of choice for me back in the day. I wasn't 
sophisticated enough to have a HW 16. I worked those contacts with a DX 60 and 
an HR 10. I too, had a home brew 15 meter Yagi but it was aluminum, no wood! 
How far have we come! Unfortunately, i couldn't fire up the K3 as we had 
thunderstorms a good portion of the day. No radio. But at least we got a rare 
rainstorm   BTW, Wayne, I have a 15 meter Long John 5 element 26 foot boom 
sitting on the ground next to my tower. It would make your KX3 reach out a bit 
better than your 10m whip!

John KE4D

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[Elecraft] K3/SteppIR

[John's email]

I've had SteppIR antennas since 07. I have both a vertical and a beam. I run a 
K3 with KPA500 in the shack. I have no relays. When changing frequencies within 
a band the antennas are pretty fast. When changing bands, especially from say 
80 to 10  or 40 -15 it can take several seconds for the antenna to adjust. I've 
never run into a situation where I thought I had to transmit faster than the 
antenna can adjust. I simply wait until the tuning led on the antenna 
controller goes out and then I can transmit. I'm not sure what could possibly 
be so urgent that I might have to transmit before the antenna stops adjusting. 
No danger to the K3 or the KPA500 by showing a tiny bit of patience. 

John KE4D

Sent from my iPad
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