Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

2012-11-16 Thread Ariel Jacala
Don and all who helped

Diodes have been replaced.  Everything is back to normal

Thanks

Ariel NY4G

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 31, 2012, at 11:02 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Ariel.
 
 While it is sometimes possible to clip the leads on the top of the board and 
 use the remaining leads to mount new diodes, I suggest that is cheating.  I 
 always remove the board from the heatsink and de-solder the diodes from below.
 Usually, the thermal pads will stay in place and can be re-used unless they 
 become torn.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 On 10/31/2012 10:34 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
 Don,
 
 I took off the shield on the KPA100 and those two diodes are tight against 
 the back panel and the toroid.  What would you recommend is the best way to 
 desolder and replace those?  It is tight against the back panel and a 
 toroid.  I do not want to risk damaging the nearby toroid - so I think I 
 will remove the the standoffs and remove the PCB from the heat sink and 
 desolder it from the back side (non component) side.   Is this what you 
 would do?
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

2012-10-31 Thread Ariel Jacala
Don,

I took off the shield on the KPA100 and those two diodes are tight against the 
back panel and the toroid.  What would you recommend is the best way to 
desolder and replace those?  It is tight against the back panel and a toroid.  
I do not want to risk damaging the nearby toroid - so I think I will remove the 
the standoffs and remove the PCB from the heat sink and desolder it from the 
back side (non component) side.   Is this what you would do?

Thanks

Ariel NY4G



Sent from my iPad

On Oct 26, 2012, at 8:10 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Ariel,
 
 You may indeed have a problem with D9 and the 3 associated resistors in the 
 base K2, BUT when the KAT2 or the KPA100 is installed, that circuit is 
 ignored.
 Both the KAT2 and the KPA100 contain a true wattmeter that is positioned 
 right at the output and used for power control.
 
 The K2 microprocessor reads the actual output and compares that to the power 
 knob setting.  That result tells the microprocessor how to adjust the drive.  
 Unlike other ham transceivers, the K2 uses a closed loop to control the power 
 instead of simply adjusting the drive.
 
 What that also means is that the wattmeter in the KPA100 is not working (you 
 have shown that the one in the KAT2 is working OK).  As I indicated before 
 (and also indicated by your high SWR indication) there is a high probability 
 that KPA100 diodes D16 and D17 have been damaged.
 
 When the diodes are damaged, the output back to the MCU is most likely zero, 
 and the MCU *thinks* there is no power output - it then increases the drive 
 to the maximum in an attempt to develop power. The result is a HiCur warning 
 and stress on the base K2 PA transistors.
 
 Replace KPA100 D16 and D17 as the first order of business and after that you 
 can investigate any remaining problems.  Note that those diodes can be half 
 bad and may show as good with a diode test - replacement is the first order 
 of business.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 10/25/2012 11:31 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
 Don
 
 The K2 with the ATU behaves as expected - internal meter agrees well with 
 the external meter, current draw is as expected, and so forth for various 
 power levels up to 10watts checked out.  It was connected to a dummy load.
 
 Without the ATU and the dummy load connected to the base K2 antenna, things 
 are rather strange At 2 watts set on the power knob, output on the 
 external meter is 2.7 watts and current draw is 0.96 amps; at a knob setting 
 of 2.4 watts, output is up to 7 watts on the external meter and current draw 
 is 1.4 amps; at a knob setting of 2.5 watts, power output is 10 watts and 
 current draw is 1.96 amps; at 3 watts knob setting, I get the high current 
 warning, and the external meter is pegged.
 
 This leads me to believe that the base K2 is overdriving the KPA100.  At low 
 power settings - 5 watts, I was pegging the LEDs indicating power on the 
 LDG100 autotuner, at over 125 watts.
 
 Ariel NY4G
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Oct 25, 2012, at 11:51 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 
 Ariel,
 
 Do not be too quick to conclude that there is something wrong with the base 
 K2.  The basic K2 uses only an RF voltage diode to display the power 
 output, and it may not be exact - it depends on the load and may vary from 
 band to band - if it only off by a watt or two, then all is OK   That is 
 bypassed when the KAT2 or KPA100 is installed.
 
 Yes, do check with the external wattmeter - both with and without the 
 KPA100.  I still think KPA100 diodes D16 and D17 are highest on the suspect 
 list with other KPA100 wattmeter components being second on that list.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 10/25/2012 11:18 AM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
 Thanks to Jim, Vic and Don for the return comments
 
 I disconnected the KPA100 and put on the K2 top with the KAT2 ATU.  With 
 the K2 ATU connected and the dummy load connected - the SWR correctly 
 reads 1:1 with menu set for CALS.  With the menu set to CALP, the power 
 levels appeared to modulate correctly with the PWR knob although this is 
 an item i have to double check.  With the ATU disconnected, the displayed 
 power on tune differs from the power setting.  This suggests to me that 
 there is something wrong with the base K2.  I still have to do what Don 
 suggested about connection to an external watt meter.
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

2012-10-31 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ariel.

While it is sometimes possible to clip the leads on the top of the board 
and use the remaining leads to mount new diodes, I suggest that is 
cheating.  I always remove the board from the heatsink and de-solder 
the diodes from below.
Usually, the thermal pads will stay in place and can be re-used unless 
they become torn.

73,
Don W3FPR
On 10/31/2012 10:34 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
 Don,

 I took off the shield on the KPA100 and those two diodes are tight against 
 the back panel and the toroid.  What would you recommend is the best way to 
 desolder and replace those?  It is tight against the back panel and a toroid. 
  I do not want to risk damaging the nearby toroid - so I think I will remove 
 the the standoffs and remove the PCB from the heat sink and desolder it from 
 the back side (non component) side.   Is this what you would do?


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Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

2012-10-31 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
If you can clip the bad diodes off at the glass enclosures, you may be able
to simply lay the new ones in place and solder their leads to the stubs
sticking up out of the pcb, then trim the excess off. I can tell you  from
years of experience that a lot of field repairs are made that way on
commercial equipment and they are as solid as sucking out the leads and
installing parts in the holes in the pcb. 

If you do remove the heat sink, be aware that the thermal pads between the
transistors and the heat sink may tear with some of the pad sticking to the
transistor and some stuck to the heat sink. That's not a show stopper as
long as you don't lose sections of pads. Just leave the pads alone. When you
put it back together when you're done the pads will fit and work just fine. 

And do NOT forget to retighten the screws in the transistors after about 5
to 10 hours of operation. We are the same age so you'll probably remember
having to re-tighten head gaskets on cars a short while after replacing them
in the old days. This is much the same, Hi! 

73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ariel Jacala
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2012 7:35 PM
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: elecraft reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

Don,

I took off the shield on the KPA100 and those two diodes are tight against
the back panel and the toroid.  What would you recommend is the best way to
desolder and replace those?  It is tight against the back panel and a
toroid.  I do not want to risk damaging the nearby toroid - so I think I
will remove the the standoffs and remove the PCB from the heat sink and
desolder it from the back side (non component) side.   Is this what you
would do?

Thanks

Ariel NY4G



Sent from my iPad

On Oct 26, 2012, at 8:10 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Ariel,
 
 You may indeed have a problem with D9 and the 3 associated resistors in
the base K2, BUT when the KAT2 or the KPA100 is installed, that circuit is
ignored.
 Both the KAT2 and the KPA100 contain a true wattmeter that is positioned
right at the output and used for power control.
 
 The K2 microprocessor reads the actual output and compares that to the
power knob setting.  That result tells the microprocessor how to adjust the
drive.  Unlike other ham transceivers, the K2 uses a closed loop to control
the power instead of simply adjusting the drive.
 
 What that also means is that the wattmeter in the KPA100 is not working
(you have shown that the one in the KAT2 is working OK).  As I indicated
before (and also indicated by your high SWR indication) there is a high
probability that KPA100 diodes D16 and D17 have been damaged.
 
 When the diodes are damaged, the output back to the MCU is most likely
zero, and the MCU *thinks* there is no power output - it then increases the
drive to the maximum in an attempt to develop power. The result is a HiCur
warning and stress on the base K2 PA transistors.
 
 Replace KPA100 D16 and D17 as the first order of business and after that
you can investigate any remaining problems.  Note that those diodes can be
half bad and may show as good with a diode test - replacement is the first
order of business.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 10/25/2012 11:31 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
 Don
 
 The K2 with the ATU behaves as expected - internal meter agrees well with
the external meter, current draw is as expected, and so forth for various
power levels up to 10watts checked out.  It was connected to a dummy load.
 
 Without the ATU and the dummy load connected to the base K2 antenna,
things are rather strange At 2 watts set on the power knob, output on
the external meter is 2.7 watts and current draw is 0.96 amps; at a knob
setting of 2.4 watts, output is up to 7 watts on the external meter and
current draw is 1.4 amps; at a knob setting of 2.5 watts, power output is 10
watts and current draw is 1.96 amps; at 3 watts knob setting, I get the high
current warning, and the external meter is pegged.
 
 This leads me to believe that the base K2 is overdriving the KPA100.  At
low power settings - 5 watts, I was pegging the LEDs indicating power on the
LDG100 autotuner, at over 125 watts.
 
 Ariel NY4G
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Oct 25, 2012, at 11:51 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 
 Ariel,
 
 Do not be too quick to conclude that there is something wrong with the
base K2.  The basic K2 uses only an RF voltage diode to display the power
output, and it may not be exact - it depends on the load and may vary from
band to band - if it only off by a watt or two, then all is OK   That is
bypassed when the KAT2 or KPA100 is installed.
 
 Yes, do check with the external wattmeter - both with and without the
KPA100.  I still think KPA100 diodes D16 and D17 are highest on the suspect
list with other KPA100 wattmeter components being second on that list.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 10/25/2012 11:18 AM, Ariel Jacala

Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

2012-10-31 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Wayne has assured me that torn pads are no problem as long as pieces are not
pulled off and lost, and I have been through that many times with no
deleterious effects on my KPA100! 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2012 8:03 PM
To: Ariel Jacala
Cc: elecraft reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

Ariel.

While it is sometimes possible to clip the leads on the top of the board and
use the remaining leads to mount new diodes, I suggest that is cheating.
I always remove the board from the heatsink and de-solder the diodes from
below.
Usually, the thermal pads will stay in place and can be re-used unless they
become torn.

73,
Don W3FPR
On 10/31/2012 10:34 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
 Don,

 I took off the shield on the KPA100 and those two diodes are tight against
the back panel and the toroid.  What would you recommend is the best way to
desolder and replace those?  It is tight against the back panel and a
toroid.  I do not want to risk damaging the nearby toroid - so I think I
will remove the the standoffs and remove the PCB from the heat sink and
desolder it from the back side (non component) side.   Is this what you
would do?


__
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

2012-10-26 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ariel,

You may indeed have a problem with D9 and the 3 associated resistors in 
the base K2, BUT when the KAT2 or the KPA100 is installed, that circuit 
is ignored.
Both the KAT2 and the KPA100 contain a true wattmeter that is positioned 
right at the output and used for power control.

The K2 microprocessor reads the actual output and compares that to the 
power knob setting.  That result tells the microprocessor how to adjust 
the drive.  Unlike other ham transceivers, the K2 uses a closed loop to 
control the power instead of simply adjusting the drive.

What that also means is that the wattmeter in the KPA100 is not working 
(you have shown that the one in the KAT2 is working OK).  As I indicated 
before (and also indicated by your high SWR indication) there is a high 
probability that KPA100 diodes D16 and D17 have been damaged.

When the diodes are damaged, the output back to the MCU is most likely 
zero, and the MCU *thinks* there is no power output - it then increases 
the drive to the maximum in an attempt to develop power. The result is a 
HiCur warning and stress on the base K2 PA transistors.

Replace KPA100 D16 and D17 as the first order of business and after that 
you can investigate any remaining problems.  Note that those diodes can 
be half bad and may show as good with a diode test - replacement is 
the first order of business.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/25/2012 11:31 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
 Don

 The K2 with the ATU behaves as expected - internal meter agrees well with the 
 external meter, current draw is as expected, and so forth for various power 
 levels up to 10watts checked out.  It was connected to a dummy load.

 Without the ATU and the dummy load connected to the base K2 antenna, things 
 are rather strange At 2 watts set on the power knob, output on the 
 external meter is 2.7 watts and current draw is 0.96 amps; at a knob setting 
 of 2.4 watts, output is up to 7 watts on the external meter and current draw 
 is 1.4 amps; at a knob setting of 2.5 watts, power output is 10 watts and 
 current draw is 1.96 amps; at 3 watts knob setting, I get the high current 
 warning, and the external meter is pegged.

 This leads me to believe that the base K2 is overdriving the KPA100.  At low 
 power settings - 5 watts, I was pegging the LEDs indicating power on the 
 LDG100 autotuner, at over 125 watts.

 Ariel NY4G

 Sent from my iPad

 On Oct 25, 2012, at 11:51 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Ariel,

 Do not be too quick to conclude that there is something wrong with the base 
 K2.  The basic K2 uses only an RF voltage diode to display the power output, 
 and it may not be exact - it depends on the load and may vary from band to 
 band - if it only off by a watt or two, then all is OK   That is bypassed 
 when the KAT2 or KPA100 is installed.

 Yes, do check with the external wattmeter - both with and without the 
 KPA100.  I still think KPA100 diodes D16 and D17 are highest on the suspect 
 list with other KPA100 wattmeter components being second on that list.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 10/25/2012 11:18 AM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
 Thanks to Jim, Vic and Don for the return comments

 I disconnected the KPA100 and put on the K2 top with the KAT2 ATU.  With 
 the K2 ATU connected and the dummy load connected - the SWR correctly reads 
 1:1 with menu set for CALS.  With the menu set to CALP, the power levels 
 appeared to modulate correctly with the PWR knob although this is an item i 
 have to double check.  With the ATU disconnected, the displayed power on 
 tune differs from the power setting.  This suggests to me that there is 
 something wrong with the base K2.  I still have to do what Don suggested 
 about connection to an external watt meter.

 __
 Elecraft mailing list
 Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
 Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

2012-10-26 Thread Ariel Jacala

Don and Group,
 
Thanks very much for the responses.  I will look at the schematic and determine 
the associated resistors with D9 and replace it.  I will also order KPA100 D16 
and D17 diodes from Elecraft.
 
Ariel NY4G
 

 Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 08:10:37 -0400
 From: w3...@embarqmail.com
 To: n...@hotmail.com
 CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load
 
 Ariel,
 
 You may indeed have a problem with D9 and the 3 associated resistors in 
 the base K2, BUT when the KAT2 or the KPA100 is installed, that circuit 
 is ignored.
 Both the KAT2 and the KPA100 contain a true wattmeter that is positioned 
 right at the output and used for power control.
 
 The K2 microprocessor reads the actual output and compares that to the 
 power knob setting. That result tells the microprocessor how to adjust 
 the drive. Unlike other ham transceivers, the K2 uses a closed loop to 
 control the power instead of simply adjusting the drive.
 
 What that also means is that the wattmeter in the KPA100 is not working 
 (you have shown that the one in the KAT2 is working OK). As I indicated 
 before (and also indicated by your high SWR indication) there is a high 
 probability that KPA100 diodes D16 and D17 have been damaged.
 
 When the diodes are damaged, the output back to the MCU is most likely 
 zero, and the MCU *thinks* there is no power output - it then increases 
 the drive to the maximum in an attempt to develop power. The result is a 
 HiCur warning and stress on the base K2 PA transistors.
 
 Replace KPA100 D16 and D17 as the first order of business and after that 
 you can investigate any remaining problems. Note that those diodes can 
 be half bad and may show as good with a diode test - replacement is 
 the first order of business.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 10/25/2012 11:31 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
  Don
 
  The K2 with the ATU behaves as expected - internal meter agrees well with 
  the external meter, current draw is as expected, and so forth for various 
  power levels up to 10watts checked out. It was connected to a dummy load.
 
  Without the ATU and the dummy load connected to the base K2 antenna, things 
  are rather strange At 2 watts set on the power knob, output on the 
  external meter is 2.7 watts and current draw is 0.96 amps; at a knob 
  setting of 2.4 watts, output is up to 7 watts on the external meter and 
  current draw is 1.4 amps; at a knob setting of 2.5 watts, power output is 
  10 watts and current draw is 1.96 amps; at 3 watts knob setting, I get the 
  high current warning, and the external meter is pegged.
 
  This leads me to believe that the base K2 is overdriving the KPA100. At low 
  power settings - 5 watts, I was pegging the LEDs indicating power on the 
  LDG100 autotuner, at over 125 watts.
 
  Ariel NY4G
 
  Sent from my iPad
 
  On Oct 25, 2012, at 11:51 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 
  Ariel,
 
  Do not be too quick to conclude that there is something wrong with the 
  base K2. The basic K2 uses only an RF voltage diode to display the power 
  output, and it may not be exact - it depends on the load and may vary from 
  band to band - if it only off by a watt or two, then all is OK That is 
  bypassed when the KAT2 or KPA100 is installed.
 
  Yes, do check with the external wattmeter - both with and without the 
  KPA100. I still think KPA100 diodes D16 and D17 are highest on the suspect 
  list with other KPA100 wattmeter components being second on that list.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  On 10/25/2012 11:18 AM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
  Thanks to Jim, Vic and Don for the return comments
 
  I disconnected the KPA100 and put on the K2 top with the KAT2 ATU. With 
  the K2 ATU connected and the dummy load connected - the SWR correctly 
  reads 1:1 with menu set for CALS. With the menu set to CALP, the power 
  levels appeared to modulate correctly with the PWR knob although this is 
  an item i have to double check. With the ATU disconnected, the displayed 
  power on tune differs from the power setting. This suggests to me that 
  there is something wrong with the base K2. I still have to do what Don 
  suggested about connection to an external watt meter.
 
  __
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

2012-10-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ariel,

I would think your K2 finals are OK (for now).
My best guess is that you have a KPA100 and a static charge has damaged 
diodes D16 and D17 in the KPA100.  If you do not have the KPA100, then 
you most likely have the KAT2 and the diodes are D1 and D2 - the same 
principle applies.

To test my theory, connect an external wattmeter between the K2 and the 
antenna.  Set the power control to 2 watts and do a TUNE - what is the 
power indicated by the external wattmeter?  If it is substantially 
higher than the set power, there is something wrong with the wattmeter 
in the KPA100 (or KAT2) - replace the diodes.

Be aware that those diodes are damaged by a static charge on the 
feedline.  You should have a DC path across the feedline and the coax 
shield should be grounded.  In any case, install an antenna switch and 
switch the K2 to a dummy load when not in use.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/24/2012 10:18 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
 My. K2/100 is acting up in that it is showing high SWR even on a dummy load.  
 Any ideas on whether the K2 finals may be blown? It behaves the same way on 
 all the bands.  It displays high current with the power set to 3 watts or 
 more.  My K2 is SN7105.

 Will appreciate diagnostic help.



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Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

2012-10-25 Thread Ariel Jacala
Thanks to Jim, Vic and Don for the return comments

I disconnected the KPA100 and put on the K2 top with the KAT2 ATU.  With the K2 
ATU connected and the dummy load connected - the SWR correctly reads 1:1 with 
menu set for CALS.  With the menu set to CALP, the power levels appeared to 
modulate correctly with the PWR knob although this is an item i have to double 
check.  With the ATU disconnected, the displayed power on tune differs from the 
power setting.  This suggests to me that there is something wrong with the base 
K2.  I still have to do what Don suggested about connection to an external watt 
meter.

Any additional ideas are welcome.

Ariel NY4G
Sent from my iPad

On Oct 25, 2012, at 8:21 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Ariel,
 
 I would think your K2 finals are OK (for now).
 My best guess is that you have a KPA100 and a static charge has damaged 
 diodes D16 and D17 in the KPA100.  If you do not have the KPA100, then you 
 most likely have the KAT2 and the diodes are D1 and D2 - the same principle 
 applies.
 
 To test my theory, connect an external wattmeter between the K2 and the 
 antenna.  Set the power control to 2 watts and do a TUNE - what is the power 
 indicated by the external wattmeter?  If it is substantially higher than the 
 set power, there is something wrong with the wattmeter in the KPA100 (or 
 KAT2) - replace the diodes.
 
 Be aware that those diodes are damaged by a static charge on the feedline.  
 You should have a DC path across the feedline and the coax shield should be 
 grounded.  In any case, install an antenna switch and switch the K2 to a 
 dummy load when not in use.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 10/24/2012 10:18 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
 My. K2/100 is acting up in that it is showing high SWR even on a dummy load. 
  Any ideas on whether the K2 finals may be blown? It behaves the same way on 
 all the bands.  It displays high current with the power set to 3 watts or 
 more.  My K2 is SN7105.
 
 Will appreciate diagnostic help.
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

2012-10-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ariel,

Do not be too quick to conclude that there is something wrong with the 
base K2.  The basic K2 uses only an RF voltage diode to display the 
power output, and it may not be exact - it depends on the load and may 
vary from band to band - if it only off by a watt or two, then all is OK 
   That is bypassed when the KAT2 or KPA100 is installed.

Yes, do check with the external wattmeter - both with and without the 
KPA100.  I still think KPA100 diodes D16 and D17 are highest on the 
suspect list with other KPA100 wattmeter components being second on that 
list.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/25/2012 11:18 AM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
 Thanks to Jim, Vic and Don for the return comments

 I disconnected the KPA100 and put on the K2 top with the KAT2 ATU.  With the 
 K2 ATU connected and the dummy load connected - the SWR correctly reads 1:1 
 with menu set for CALS.  With the menu set to CALP, the power levels appeared 
 to modulate correctly with the PWR knob although this is an item i have to 
 double check.  With the ATU disconnected, the displayed power on tune differs 
 from the power setting.  This suggests to me that there is something wrong 
 with the base K2.  I still have to do what Don suggested about connection to 
 an external watt meter.


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Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

2012-10-25 Thread Ariel Jacala
Don

The K2 with the ATU behaves as expected - internal meter agrees well with the 
external meter, current draw is as expected, and so forth for various power 
levels up to 10watts checked out.  It was connected to a dummy load.

Without the ATU and the dummy load connected to the base K2 antenna, things are 
rather strange At 2 watts set on the power knob, output on the external 
meter is 2.7 watts and current draw is 0.96 amps; at a knob setting of 2.4 
watts, output is up to 7 watts on the external meter and current draw is 1.4 
amps; at a knob setting of 2.5 watts, power output is 10 watts and current draw 
is 1.96 amps; at 3 watts knob setting, I get the high current warning, and the 
external meter is pegged.

This leads me to believe that the base K2 is overdriving the KPA100.  At low 
power settings - 5 watts, I was pegging the LEDs indicating power on the LDG100 
autotuner, at over 125 watts.

Ariel NY4G

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 25, 2012, at 11:51 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Ariel,
 
 Do not be too quick to conclude that there is something wrong with the base 
 K2.  The basic K2 uses only an RF voltage diode to display the power output, 
 and it may not be exact - it depends on the load and may vary from band to 
 band - if it only off by a watt or two, then all is OK   That is bypassed 
 when the KAT2 or KPA100 is installed.
 
 Yes, do check with the external wattmeter - both with and without the KPA100. 
  I still think KPA100 diodes D16 and D17 are highest on the suspect list with 
 other KPA100 wattmeter components being second on that list.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 10/25/2012 11:18 AM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
 Thanks to Jim, Vic and Don for the return comments
 
 I disconnected the KPA100 and put on the K2 top with the KAT2 ATU.  With the 
 K2 ATU connected and the dummy load connected - the SWR correctly reads 1:1 
 with menu set for CALS.  With the menu set to CALP, the power levels 
 appeared to modulate correctly with the PWR knob although this is an item i 
 have to double check.  With the ATU disconnected, the displayed power on 
 tune differs from the power setting.  This suggests to me that there is 
 something wrong with the base K2.  I still have to do what Don suggested 
 about connection to an external watt meter.
 
 
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[Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

2012-10-24 Thread Ariel Jacala
My. K2/100 is acting up in that it is showing high SWR even on a dummy load.  
Any ideas on whether the K2 finals may be blown? It behaves the same way on all 
the bands.  It displays high current with the power set to 3 watts or more.  My 
K2 is SN7105.

Will appreciate diagnostic help.

Ariel NY4G

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

2012-10-24 Thread Jim Wiley
Ariel -

What options, if any,  are in your K2?   Can you temporarily disable the 
100-watt PA and connect the 10-watt PA directly to the dummy load 
(disconnecting the cables to the KPA-100 completely), and if so, what 
happens then?  It may be that the wattmeter diodes are damaged.  If that 
happens the power control circuit cannot operate properly and all sorts 
of odd things may happen.


- Jim, KL7CC


On 10/24/2012 6:18 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
 My. K2/100 is acting up in that it is showing high SWR even on a dummy load.  
 Any ideas on whether the K2 finals may be blown? It behaves the same way on 
 all the bands.  It displays high current with the power set to 3 watts or 
 more.  My K2 is SN7105.

 Will appreciate diagnostic help.

 Ariel NY4G

 Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: High SWR On Dummy Load

2012-10-24 Thread Vic K2VCO
You probably have thought of this, but make sure you are using a different 
cable to the 
dummy load than the one you were using with the antenna. Bad cables, or rather, 
bad 
cable-connector junctions, are very common.

On 10/24/2012 7:18 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
 My. K2/100 is acting up in that it is showing high SWR even on a dummy load.  
 Any ideas on whether the K2 finals may be blown? It behaves the same way on 
 all the bands.  It displays high current with the power set to 3 watts or 
 more.  My K2 is SN7105.

 Will appreciate diagnostic help.

 Ariel NY4G

 Sent from my iPad


-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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