Re: [Elecraft] K3 F Gain mod

2010-01-30 Thread Ian White GM3SEK
Matt Zilmer wrote:

The instructions have you clipping one SMT resistor and then removing
the pieces.

I've did a trial of this method on a junk PCB here.

At least on the board I used, there apparently is some kind of adhesive
under under the chip.  The clipping process seems to remove the solder
resist and perhaps any PCB traces under the chip.

Is there anything under R8 that can be damaged?

(Guess not, since nobody complaining.  A blow up of the pix doesn't seem
to show anything either)

73 de Brian/K3KO

The K3 electronics seems to be assembled with a clean SMT process,
which means that only solder paste is used to hold the components on
the board during reflow.  The boards are designed for rework.

You should not experience the same problem with K3 PCBA's.  I've done
most of the approved rework to the K3 and had no trouble like this.

73,
matt W6NIA
K3 #24

Good information from the man who knows.


But I think it's a bad recommendation for K3 owners to remove SMD 
components by crunching them up with diagonal cutters. It's a violent 
process - the cutter blades focus a large force into a very small area 
- with a significant risk of tearing up the tiny SMD pads and damaging 
the board.

Some boards also have hair-fine copper traces routed *between* the pads. 
Plow up one of these and you're in real trouble! (Maybe not on the K3 IF 
gain mod... but one day you'll regret doing it this way.)

It is much safer - and also much easier - to 'float' the chip gently off 
the board by melting the solder on both ends at the same time. As Matt 
says, the pads are designed for this kind of rework and the resistor 
comes right off.



-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 F Gain mod

2010-01-30 Thread GW0ETF

I've just fitted the KXV3A to s/n 145 and did the R8 replacement at the same
time.

I used Ian's method2 fine tipped soldering irons placed each end lifts
the chip *immediately*. No adhesive and no worries about damaged board or
shards of carbon embedded in your eye...the resistor was also lifted this
way off an old PCI board to avoid shipping costs as I'd forgotten to order
it with the KXV3A, doh!

73,

Stewart Rolfe, GW0ETF
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-F-Gain-mod-tp4482630p4484664.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 F Gain mod

2010-01-30 Thread Brian Alsop
Thanks all.  I'm the cautious type.  Experiment first on something dead. 
  That's why surgeons practice on cadavers.

73 de Brian/K3KO

Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
 
 The K3 electronics seems to be assembled with a clean SMT process,
 which means that only solder paste is used to hold the components on
 the board during reflow.  The boards are designed for rework.

 You should not experience the same problem with K3 PCBA's.  I've done
 most of the approved rework to the K3 and had no trouble like this.

 73,
 matt W6NIA
 K3 #24
 
 Good information from the man who knows.
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 F Gain mod

2010-01-30 Thread Alan Bloom
You don't even need two soldering irons.  Just angle the iron almost
flat so the tip touches both ends of the component, then add a big blob
of solder so that you get good thermal contact with both ends at once.
The part will come right off and you can clean off the excess solder on
the pads with solder-removal braid.

Al N1AL


On Sat, 2010-01-30 at 01:22 -0800, GW0ETF wrote:
 I've just fitted the KXV3A to s/n 145 and did the R8 replacement at the same
 time.
 
 I used Ian's method2 fine tipped soldering irons placed each end lifts
 the chip *immediately*. No adhesive and no worries about damaged board or
 shards of carbon embedded in your eye...the resistor was also lifted this
 way off an old PCI board to avoid shipping costs as I'd forgotten to order
 it with the KXV3A, doh!
 
 73,
 
 Stewart Rolfe, GW0ETF


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[Elecraft] K3 F Gain mod

2010-01-29 Thread Brian Alsop
The instructions have you clipping one SMT resistor and then removing 
the pieces.

I've did a trial of this method on a junk PCB here.

At least on the board I used, there apparently is some kind of adhesive 
under under the chip.  The clipping process seems to remove the solder 
resist and perhaps any PCB traces under the chip.

Is there anything under R8 that can be damaged?

(Guess not, since nobody complaining.  A blow up of the pix doesn't seem 
to show anything either)

73 de Brian/K3KO
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 F Gain mod

2010-01-29 Thread Matt Zilmer
The K3 electronics seems to be assembled with a clean SMT process,
which means that only solder paste is used to hold the components on
the board during reflow.  The boards are designed for rework.

You should not experience the same problem with K3 PCBA's.  I've done
most of the approved rework to the K3 and had no trouble like this.

73,
matt W6NIA
K3 #24

On Fri, 29 Jan 2010 21:40:33 +, you wrote:

The instructions have you clipping one SMT resistor and then removing 
the pieces.

I've did a trial of this method on a junk PCB here.

At least on the board I used, there apparently is some kind of adhesive 
under under the chip.  The clipping process seems to remove the solder 
resist and perhaps any PCB traces under the chip.

Is there anything under R8 that can be damaged?

(Guess not, since nobody complaining.  A blow up of the pix doesn't seem 
to show anything either)

73 de Brian/K3KO
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 F Gain mod

2010-01-29 Thread Dave - AB7E


There are different methods used to solder SMT components to PC boards.  The 
use of adhesive under the body of the component is an older process typically 
used for wave soldering.  Reflow soldering is more common now (especially for 
single sided boards), where the solder paste is screened onto the board first 
and then the component leads are placed into the paste.  The sticky paste holds 
the component in place until the solder melts, at which point the surface 
tension of the solder takes over.

I'm pretty sure the K3 uses the latter technique and wouldn't have any epoxy 
holding the resistor to the board.

73,
Dave   AB7E



--Original Mail--
From: Brian Alsop als...@nc.rr.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 21:40:33 +
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 F Gain mod

The instructions have you clipping one SMT resistor and then removing 
the pieces.

I've did a trial of this method on a junk PCB here.

At least on the board I used, there apparently is some kind of adhesive 
under under the chip.  The clipping process seems to remove the solder 
resist and perhaps any PCB traces under the chip.

Is there anything under R8 that can be damaged?

(Guess not, since nobody complaining.  A blow up of the pix doesn't seem 
to show anything either)

73 de Brian/K3KO
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