Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2016-01-22 Thread Jim Bolit
Any need to optically isolate control lines et. Al., with simple
opto-couplers (6 pin DIP's)?

Jim
W6AIM



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred
Jensen
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2016 2:44 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

Again, thanks to all.  To summarize for all who took the time to offer
information and suggestions:

1.  From an Elecraft engineer [who I happen to know quite well]:  The AUX
cable is probably not a good choice to extend.  In addition to voltage and
RFI issues, there are timing constraints on those circuits. 
  I can do what I need with RS-232.

2.  I should be able to make RS-232 work.  I personally know that many
so-called RS-232 drivers use +/-5 V rather than +/-12 V.  This is a problem
I can solve.

3.  Universal agreement on no connectors outside.  Almost universal
agreement on "no connectors penetrating the housing."  Almost universal
agreement on cable entrance glands of one type or another.

4.  Condensate drain(s) are a must.  There is universal agreement that water
(and apparently other things) runs downhill. :-)  I learned that changes in
inside vs outside pressure over the day will also initiate condensation [did
not understand how that works].

5.  Insectus Multileggus tend to be somewhat limited in our area due to hard
winter freezes and reduced summer precipitation, but I will need to keep
them out.  We have small bunnies [not jack rabbits] that abound [and chew]
around here, it appears that our backyard is immune right now but I will
protect the cable drip loops anyway.  I will personally congratulate any
gopher or mole that can dig through our caliche.

6.  Right now, I'm leaning toward a large enough PVC pipe, several inches
long and open at the bottom [except for critter control] for cable entrance,
condensate drain, and pressure equalization.  I'll probably put a light bulb
in the case.  There is universal agreement that I need common-mode chokes at
the ends and maybe along the cable runs inside the conduit.  Fortunately, I
know K9YC, I'll consult with him on those.

Thanks to all for all the information, advice, ideas, and guidance. 
I'll post occasionally as this plan progresses.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2016-01-21 Thread Gary K9GS
One popular brand of panel mount (and other types) liquid tight bushings 
is Heyco:


http://www.heyco.com/ 



KF7P Metalwerks sells cable glands that fit coax cables.  See below, 
about 2/3 of the way down the page:



http://www.kf7p.com/KF7P/EntrancePanels.html






On 1/21/2016 2:05 PM, David Anderson wrote:

Hi Fred,

Best to avoid connectors mounted -on- the box if possible, as it is another 
possible point of water entry through screw holes and connector holes.  Mil 
spec waterproof connectors are expensive.

Of course it goes without saying that connectors for 120 V AC need to be 
suitable items for outdoor use.

Use suitable panel mounted cable glands and pass the cables through them.

You can then fit connectors on the ends of short cables from the enclosure for 
disconnecting them when you require, as it is much easier to wrap suitable self 
amalgamating tape and top covering of PVC tape for UV protection around an 
inline socket and plug than around a panel mounted socket on the enclosure.

Good luck with your project.

73 from David GM4JJJ


On 21 Jan 2016, at 19:17, Fred Jensen  wrote:

Thanks for all the input on my plan to remote my KAT500 to the base of a flag 
pole.  Plans are taking shape.  I still have a couple of specific questions:



3.  How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box?  Should I mount 
connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the weather], or 
are there weatherproof entrance fittings.  One of the cables will be 120 VAC, 
probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V supply and the fixture to light the 
flag at night.


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--
73,

Gary K9GS

Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org



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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2016-01-21 Thread Clay Autery

On 1/21/2016 4:44 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
> 1.  From an Elecraft engineer [who I happen to know quite well]:  The
> AUX cable is probably not a good choice to extend.  In addition to
> voltage and RFI issues, there are timing constraints on those
> circuits.  I can do what I need with RS-232.
LOL!  Yep, that's what I was thinking...  Ethernet has voltage, RFI, and
timing constraints, too.  That just makes me want to test it to find out
if I can make it work now...  

> 4.  Condensate drain(s) are a must.  There is universal agreement that
> water (and apparently other things) runs downhill. :-)  I learned that
> changes in inside vs outside pressure over the day will also initiate
> condensation [did not understand how that works].
Pressure AND temp changes, combined with sufficiently humidified air can
act almost like a water pump...  I learned the hard way before I taught
myself how to put equipment on masts.  ;)  (Enclosures matter...  choose
the wrong one and it doesn't make much difference what doo-dads you
attach, the "plastic" itself will allow moisture ingress.
> 6.  Right now, I'm leaning toward a large enough PVC pipe, several
> inches long and open at the bottom [except for critter control] for
> cable entrance, condensate drain, and pressure equalization.  I'll
> probably put a light bulb in the case.  There is universal agreement
> that I need common-mode chokes at the ends and maybe along the cable
> runs inside the conduit.  Fortunately, I know K9YC, I'll consult with
> him on those.
Are you putting your cable runs in the ground?  That's a whole different
discussion.  ;)

73,

Clay
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2016-01-21 Thread Jim Brown

On Thu,1/21/2016 3:11 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Both cable resistance and cable capacitance will reduce the levels at 
the end of a long run. 


Cable capacitance rolls off the high end, which softens the rise and 
fall time of the pulses. The primary effect is to limit the baud rate.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2016-01-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Fred,

"Real" RS-232 drivers use +/- 15 volts rather than +/-5 or even +/- 12 
volts - the maximum open circuit voltage is +/- 25 volts.
The key is that at the receiver end, the levels must be +/-3 volts or 
greater.  Both cable resistance and cable capacitance will reduce the 
levels at the end of a long run.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/21/2016 5:44 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:


2.  I should be able to make RS-232 work.  I personally know that many 
so-called RS-232 drivers use +/-5 V rather than +/-12 V. This is a 
problem I can solve.




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[Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2016-01-21 Thread Fred Jensen
Again, thanks to all.  To summarize for all who took the time to offer 
information and suggestions:


1.  From an Elecraft engineer [who I happen to know quite well]:  The 
AUX cable is probably not a good choice to extend.  In addition to 
voltage and RFI issues, there are timing constraints on those circuits. 
 I can do what I need with RS-232.


2.  I should be able to make RS-232 work.  I personally know that many 
so-called RS-232 drivers use +/-5 V rather than +/-12 V.  This is a 
problem I can solve.


3.  Universal agreement on no connectors outside.  Almost universal 
agreement on "no connectors penetrating the housing."  Almost universal 
agreement on cable entrance glands of one type or another.


4.  Condensate drain(s) are a must.  There is universal agreement that 
water (and apparently other things) runs downhill. :-)  I learned that 
changes in inside vs outside pressure over the day will also initiate 
condensation [did not understand how that works].


5.  Insectus Multileggus tend to be somewhat limited in our area due to 
hard winter freezes and reduced summer precipitation, but I will need to 
keep them out.  We have small bunnies [not jack rabbits] that abound 
[and chew] around here, it appears that our backyard is immune right now 
but I will protect the cable drip loops anyway.  I will personally 
congratulate any gopher or mole that can dig through our caliche.


6.  Right now, I'm leaning toward a large enough PVC pipe, several 
inches long and open at the bottom [except for critter control] for 
cable entrance, condensate drain, and pressure equalization.  I'll 
probably put a light bulb in the case.  There is universal agreement 
that I need common-mode chokes at the ends and maybe along the cable 
runs inside the conduit.  Fortunately, I know K9YC, I'll consult with 
him on those.


Thanks to all for all the information, advice, ideas, and guidance. 
I'll post occasionally as this plan progresses.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2016-01-21 Thread ab2tc
Hi,

Interesting thread. We have seen everything from using a bottomless
Tupperware container with a single computer interface in it to a complete
house entry system. My remote CAT500 box is somewhere in between, but closer
to an oversize Tupperware box than anything else. I don't have an amplifier
so I don't think I can help you with question 1.

On the cable entry question, in my case just having the bottom of the box
wide open with cables coming in with drip loops have worked very well and at
least I have seen some support for this approach (the Tupperware container).
Here in CNY we don't have a huge critter problem, just some spider webs to
wipe down once in a while. Wasps seem to prefer it elsewhere as others have
noted.

AB2TC - Knut



k6dgw wrote
> Thanks for all the input on my plan to remote my KAT500 to the base of a 
> flag pole.  Plans are taking shape.  I still have a couple of specific 
> questions:
> 
> 1.  It appears that the "AUX cable" can be dispensed with using instead 
> the KEY OUT line from the amplifier.  Before I give up on the "AUX 
> cable," does anyone know how long a cable I could have?  My run will be 
> about 120' [~37 m].  I think the signals in that cable are TTL levels 
> but I don't know how CAT5/CAT6 twisted pair cables might work over that 
> distance.
> 
> 2.  With the KAT500 in its box at the antenna base, I'm trying to figure 
> out how I would "train" the autotuner.  Before our move, I set my K3 to 
> the center of each "bin" on each band, and tapped TUNE.  I did this for 
> each of the three antennas I had on the appropriate bands.  It took 
> awhile.  Thereafter, I ran the KAT500 in MAN mode and it recalled the 
> right settings as I tuned in receive.  The "AUX cable" was connected. 
> That method isn't going to work well with a remote KAT500.
> 
> 3.  How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box?  Should I mount 
> connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the 
> weather], or are there weatherproof entrance fittings.  One of the 
> cables will be 120 VAC, probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V supply 
> and the fixture to light the flag at night.
> 
> As has been pointed out, the not-so-expensive-box will be housing a 
> fairly-expensive-KAT500.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
> - www.cqp.org
> 





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http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Remote-KAT500-tp7612885p7612900.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2016-01-21 Thread Edward R Cole

Fred,

I have used wx-proof fittings designed for small electrical conduit 
and/or cables to bring both ext cords, heavy power cable and RG-8 
sized coax into outdoor compartments.  Found them at local building 
and electrical supply.  Typically are plastic with rubber stopper and 
compression nut for fitting/sealing.  Stopper come with a range of 
hole sizes for cable.


I use bulkhead coax adapters on a 1/4-inch aluminum plate in a large 
rectangular wall opening to the house.  I would not do that if doing 
it over and instead bring cables in thru large PVC nipples.  Do the 
lightning abatement outside the house.  If you do not change cables 
often you could seal with spray in foam insulation.


Commercial installations do a similar thing with plastic entrance 
pipes that can accommodate three hardlines.  They have a rubber 
membranes with split openings for the cable.  Usually the entrance 
has a cable box.  But that stuff is real expensive so I make my own 
for ham radio.


73, Ed

-
3.  How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box?  Should I mount
connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the
weather], or are there weatherproof entrance fittings.  One of the
cables will be 120 VAC, probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V supply
and the fixture to light the flag at night.

As has been pointed out, the not-so-expensive-box will be housing a
fairly-expensive-KAT500.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2016-01-21 Thread Clay Autery
1.  The AUX cable...  twisted pair cable or better, shielded twisted
pair cable, would be nice to use, but typically only has 4-pair (8
conductors), and the KAT-500 DB-15 pinout shows straight through wiring
of TEN (10) conductors (or 9 if you don't use have to have the ALC). 
You COULD get it down to 8 IF you only used one ground conductor and
then di-plexed it on each end.   I would NOT do this without a CLEAR
understanding why there are 2 grounds there to begin with.  CAT-5 when
used with Ethernet has a max run spec of 100 meters (I've run them
longer) and CAT-6 is the same EXCEPT it derates to 55 meters for 10 gig
data rate.  So, the cable isn't an issue... probably.  It has to do with
what signal types and levels are put on the interface, and what the
receiving end (both the ATU and the PA) need to SEE.

Definitely doable, IMHO.  But I'd need more info as to the interface
specifications to offer you a "will work" solution vs. a "should work"
solution.

Without ANY additional info, I would TRY it this way:

Use TWO (2) runs of CAT-6 to replace the AUX cable.  I'd ONLY put 4
signal wires on each cable.  I'd pair EACH signal with a ground... IAW,
use one conductor for the signal and its pair-mate as a ground.

YMMV, and I am not responsible if you let the smoke out of something.  ;-)

3. Cable entry to box:  Personally, I would NOT put cable junctions
external to the box... especially a 259 pair (I don't use 259 connectors
EVER outside).  There are cable "glands" made for various sizes of
cable.  Use the appropriate size for each cable.  ONE cable per gland. 
They are water-proof (resistant actually) based on their rating.  Put
the glands on the bottom preferably, side NOT facing prevailing storm
direction next, but never on top.  When you install the gland housing on
the box, seal it properly as extra insurance.  Using glands will ALSO
avoid the additional insertion loss and potential point of failure of
adding an additional connector, jumper wire, and moisture ingress on the
feedline(s), etc.

Feel free to email me direct...

73,

__
Clay Autery

On 1/21/2016 1:17 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
>
> 1.  It appears that the "AUX cable" can be dispensed with using
> instead the KEY OUT line from the amplifier.  Before I give up on the
> "AUX cable," does anyone know how long a cable I could have?  My run
> will be about 120' [~37 m].  I think the signals in that cable are TTL
> levels but I don't know how CAT5/CAT6 twisted pair cables might work
> over that distance.
>
> 2.  With the KAT500 in its box at the antenna base, I'm trying to
> figure out how I would "train" the autotuner.  Before our move, I set
> my K3 to the center of each "bin" on each band, and tapped TUNE.  I
> did this for each of the three antennas I had on the appropriate
> bands.  It took awhile.  Thereafter, I ran the KAT500 in MAN mode and
> it recalled the right settings as I tuned in receive.  The "AUX cable"
> was connected. That method isn't going to work well with a remote KAT500.
>
> 3.  How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box?  Should I mount
> connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the
> weather], or are there weatherproof entrance fittings.  One of the
> cables will be 120 VAC, probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V
> supply and the fixture to light the flag at night.
>
> As has been pointed out, the not-so-expensive-box will be housing a
> fairly-expensive-KAT500. 

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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2016-01-21 Thread Michael Walker
My 2 cents on remote mounting and dealing with non-salted air.

I have long given up on keeping the water 100% out of the box.  I am 100%
in favour of keeping electronics dry (and there is a difference) and bug
free.

As an example, we had a linksys router 80ft up a tower in a tupperware
container with no bottom in it for 8 years in Northern Ontario (very HOT
and very very cold).  It never got wet and worked flawlessly.  Outside air
was allowed to flow all around it.

Everytime I tried to keep something dry in a box, all it did was trap the
water and high humidity inside.  :)

I know a WISP operator that now does exactly the same thing.  It is easier
to keep it dry and water resistant that waterproof.

Mike va3mw


On Thu, Jan 21, 2016 at 3:05 PM, David Anderson  wrote:

> Hi Fred,
>
> Best to avoid connectors mounted -on- the box if possible, as it is
> another possible point of water entry through screw holes and connector
> holes.  Mil spec waterproof connectors are expensive.
>
> Of course it goes without saying that connectors for 120 V AC need to be
> suitable items for outdoor use.
>
> Use suitable panel mounted cable glands and pass the cables through them.
>
> You can then fit connectors on the ends of short cables from the enclosure
> for disconnecting them when you require, as it is much easier to wrap
> suitable self amalgamating tape and top covering of PVC tape for UV
> protection around an inline socket and plug than around a panel mounted
> socket on the enclosure.
>
> Good luck with your project.
>
> 73 from David GM4JJJ
>
> > On 21 Jan 2016, at 19:17, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for all the input on my plan to remote my KAT500 to the base of a
> flag pole.  Plans are taking shape.  I still have a couple of specific
> questions:
>
>
> > 3.  How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box?  Should I mount
> connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the
> weather], or are there weatherproof entrance fittings.  One of the cables
> will be 120 VAC, probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V supply and the
> fixture to light the flag at night.
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2016-01-21 Thread David Anderson
Hi Fred,

Best to avoid connectors mounted -on- the box if possible, as it is another 
possible point of water entry through screw holes and connector holes.  Mil 
spec waterproof connectors are expensive.  

Of course it goes without saying that connectors for 120 V AC need to be 
suitable items for outdoor use. 

Use suitable panel mounted cable glands and pass the cables through them. 

You can then fit connectors on the ends of short cables from the enclosure for 
disconnecting them when you require, as it is much easier to wrap suitable self 
amalgamating tape and top covering of PVC tape for UV protection around an 
inline socket and plug than around a panel mounted socket on the enclosure. 

Good luck with your project.

73 from David GM4JJJ

> On 21 Jan 2016, at 19:17, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for all the input on my plan to remote my KAT500 to the base of a flag 
> pole.  Plans are taking shape.  I still have a couple of specific questions:


> 3.  How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box?  Should I mount 
> connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the weather], 
> or are there weatherproof entrance fittings.  One of the cables will be 120 
> VAC, probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V supply and the fixture to light 
> the flag at night.
> 

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[Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2016-01-21 Thread Fred Jensen
Thanks for all the input on my plan to remote my KAT500 to the base of a 
flag pole.  Plans are taking shape.  I still have a couple of specific 
questions:


1.  It appears that the "AUX cable" can be dispensed with using instead 
the KEY OUT line from the amplifier.  Before I give up on the "AUX 
cable," does anyone know how long a cable I could have?  My run will be 
about 120' [~37 m].  I think the signals in that cable are TTL levels 
but I don't know how CAT5/CAT6 twisted pair cables might work over that 
distance.


2.  With the KAT500 in its box at the antenna base, I'm trying to figure 
out how I would "train" the autotuner.  Before our move, I set my K3 to 
the center of each "bin" on each band, and tapped TUNE.  I did this for 
each of the three antennas I had on the appropriate bands.  It took 
awhile.  Thereafter, I ran the KAT500 in MAN mode and it recalled the 
right settings as I tuned in receive.  The "AUX cable" was connected. 
That method isn't going to work well with a remote KAT500.


3.  How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box?  Should I mount 
connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the 
weather], or are there weatherproof entrance fittings.  One of the 
cables will be 120 VAC, probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V supply 
and the fixture to light the flag at night.


As has been pointed out, the not-so-expensive-box will be housing a 
fairly-expensive-KAT500.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-12-30 Thread Kevin Stover

USB 2.0 spec is 5 meters, about 17 feet, between devices.
USB 3.0/3.1 doesn't give a max distance spec but the generally accepted 
distance is 3 meters between devices.
If it was me I'd use CAT5/6 cable, CAT6 being preferred because of the 
bigger conductors and more twists per inch.
Less than $50 bucks for a couple hundred feet of bulk CAT6 and a couple 
of DE9 connectors.



On 12/30/2015 1:57 PM, Cliff Frescura wrote:

8 ft is not true for rs-232.  Depends on type of cable and baud rate.  50ft is 
generally fine and can go up to hundreds of feet.  Maybe you are thinking about 
usb.

73,

Cliff K3LL

essage delivered to kevin.sto...@mediacombb.net



--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-12-30 Thread Va3ied
I rec'd this from elecraft today...

Hi Scott,

We have attached, below, the procedure to train and optimize the KAT with
the KPA500. After the training is completed, please leave the KAT in the
MAN position. It should operate better for you in that position. We would
suggest you have the latest firmware loaded into the KAT.

You can place each antenna on its own port and train the KAT for those
bands. Once trained, the KAT will find the closest full cycle tune for the
frequency you have landed on. If it can not find a successful tune, you
will need to tune the KAT while in the MAN position to get the VSWR down at
that frequency.

As a side note, the use of the KAT Utility can provide the actual Bypass
VSWR (under the Operate tab). This is what the KAT is actually seeing
throught the transmission line. The Bypass VSWR should not be above 10 to
1, or the KAT will not be able to complete a full cycle tune.

We hope this helps.

73,

-- 
--
Craig Smith W6WL
Elecraft Customer Support831-763-4211 x 174
--



**  Here is a procedure to setup your KAT500 with a KPA500
***


 Please enter the KAT500 Utility and select the Configuration tab then
click on the button to Optimize for KPA500.




*Training the Tuner*

*Overview*

We will be stepping through each band where you have an antenna connected
to the KAT500, selecting the top, bottom and places in the middle of each
band where you expect to operate.  At each of these points, we will be
causing the transceiver to emit a steady-state, CW RF signal for the KAT500
to use while it executes a full tune cycle.   Since the KAT500 is an
Automatic Tuner, it will remember the settings it finds at each of the
points in the band.  This is referred to as 'Training the Tuner'.

The following sequence assumes that the transceiver, KAT500 and, if
appropriate, the KPA500 are installed as specified in the KAT500 Owner's
Manual, Figure 4.

*Set up*

- On the transceiver set it up to generate 25 watts.  We recommend that you
set up a way to generate 25 watts of RF with a constant carrier wave (CW)
that can be keyed at will.  This CW signal at 25 watts will need to be
present until the KAT500 has completed a full tune cycle.

- On the KAT500, select the MAN mode.

- On the KAT500, Tap the ANT button to select the appropriate antenna for
the selected band.  The ANT LED will light solidly indicating the antenna
port selected.

- On the transceiver, select the the appropriate band.  Then, adjust VFO to
the lowest spot in that band where your antenna will work.

*For each VFO Setting perform the following to Train the KAT500*:

1) Then, Tap the MODE button so that AUTO is enabled.  The AUTO LED will
stay on solidly. This places the tuner into Automatic mode so that it will
remember the settings found during the upcoming tune cycle.
- Next, Tap the TUNE button on the KPA500.  The AUTO LED will now start to
Flash.  This indicates that the KAT500 is now awaiting the RF needed to
execute a full tune cycle.

2) Cause the transceiver to send its 25 watts of CW RF

3)  The KAT500 will begin to clatter as it searches for a low SWR.  This is
the Full Tune Cycle.  The clattering will stop once a low SWR is found and
the KAT500 AUTO LED will now be solid.  This indicates that the full tune
cycle is complete and the results have been memorized.


- On the transceiver, adjust VFO frequency for the upper end of the band
where your antenna will operate.  Repeat Steps 1-3 above for this setting.
- Then, move into the middle of the band and repeat Steps 1-3 again.

*Train the tuner on all Bands*

- Next, step to other bands where your antenna can operate within a 10:1
SWR ratio. Perform the same steps above as with the first band chosen.

- How do you know how many times per band needed to fully train the tuner?
Here's the answer from the KAT500 Owner's Manual.



*Training the tuner with all of your antennas*

If you have more than one antenna, continue to ANT 2 and ANT 3 ports using
the same technique above for those antennas.  The KAT500 tuner can remember
settings for all 3 antenna ports separately!

*Make it easy for your Tuner to remember what it was trained to do*

Once you have fully trained your KAT500 tuner on all bands and all
Antennas, you can save your work using the KAT500 Utility.  Go to the
Configuration tab in the Utility and select Save Configuration to complete
your tuner's training.

On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 7:38 PM, Jim Brown-10 [via Elecraft] <
ml-node+s365791n7612053...@n2.nabble.com> wrote:

> On Wed,12/30/2015 12:20 PM, Rick WA6NHC wrote:
> > BUT it should be done with a fully compliant serial device, using the
> > full RS-232 voltages (+/- 12V, some laptops 'cheat' using lower or not
> > negative voltages) in order to extend that far.  Beyond 100' I would
> > expect that the bit rate would have to come down too, but I haven't
> > tested that.  I would also suggest a full 9 wire PLUS 

Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-12-30 Thread Jim Brown

On Wed,12/30/2015 12:20 PM, Rick WA6NHC wrote:
BUT it should be done with a fully compliant serial device, using the 
full RS-232 voltages (+/- 12V, some laptops 'cheat' using lower or not 
negative voltages) in order to extend that far.  Beyond 100' I would 
expect that the bit rate would have to come down too, but I haven't 
tested that.  I would also suggest a full 9 wire PLUS shield cable, 
bonding the shield at both ends to the device/computer chassis via the 
connector housing.  You may need some ferrite too, to be determined. 


I suggest a different solution for the wiring. Use a decent grade of 
CAT5/6 cable, using one pair per circuit. CAT5/6 is four twisted pairs, 
which inherently reject noise, and it has low capacitance between 
conductors. To avoid Pin One Problems, tie all four "striped" conductors 
together and wire them both to the signal ground pin and to the 
connector shell on both ends. If you do use shielded CAT5/6, wire the 
shields to the connector shells and the four striped conductors to the 
ground pin.


Years ago, we used RS232 to control sophisticated audio signal 
processing systems in theaters, stadiums, and churches. The RS232 cable 
was often 200 ft or longer, running to a laptop. These links worked 
fine. I don't recall what baud rates we used.


As to bandwidth -- RS232 is an un-matched protocol, with a low-Z source 
and high Z receiver, so bandwidth/baud rate is limited by cable 
capacitance. That's why the spec was revised many years ago to reflect 
the availability of low capacitance cables.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-12-30 Thread Wes (N7WS)
I have no idea whether this is a possibility or not.  I've just come across it 
in another forum and haven't studied it in detail.


http://www.hamcom.dk/VNWA/How%20to%20Operate%20VNWA2%20and%20VNWA3%20Remotely%20Wired%20or%20Wireless.pdf

On 12/30/2015 10:10 AM, Ken K6MR wrote:

A couple of possibilities:

Use a USB/Serial converter at the tuner end and employ a USB over CAT5 extender 
device/cable to get there. CAT5 cable is cheap. There are also RS422/RS232 
converters out there. RS422 is good for about 4000 feet as I remember and the 
converters are not very expensive.

More expensive but more flexible is a run of duplex fiber optic cable with 
fiber/Ethernet converters on each end. I use this method and run the fiber in 
the same conduit as the coaxes between the radios and the tuners/amps. Fiber of 
course ensures no radiated noise. Plus if you want to control something else at 
the far end it’s easy to expand.

Ken K6MR


From: Va3ied
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 06:48
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

My tower and garden shed are about 150 feet away. I have LMR400 buried inside
some PEX pipe. Would like to use the KAT500 inside the shed...not sure how
well a serial connection that distance would work!
scott va3ied



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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-12-30 Thread Don Wilhelm

Scott,

*Real* RS-232 ports (those which comply with the +/- 25 volt at the 
driver) would easily drive that 150 foot distance, but the PC based 
drivers and receivers are not likely to work reliably because the 
voltage swing is insufficient to guarantee at least +/- 3 volts of swing 
at the receiver.
The other limiting factor is the capacitance between conductors in the 
cable - that distorts the waveform.   It might work if you invest in 
good quality cable and work with slower baud rates.


I would think the loss through 150 feet of LMR400 would be low enough to 
be practical and allow the KPA500 to live in the shack.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/30/2015 9:47 AM, Va3ied wrote:

My tower and garden shed are about 150 feet away. I have LMR400 buried inside
some PEX pipe. Would like to use the KAT500 inside the shed...not sure how
well a serial connection that distance would work!
scott va3ied




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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-12-30 Thread Rick WA6NHC
BUT it should be done with a fully compliant serial device, using the 
full RS-232 voltages (+/- 12V, some laptops 'cheat' using lower or not 
negative voltages) in order to extend that far.  Beyond 100' I would 
expect that the bit rate would have to come down too, but I haven't 
tested that.  I would also suggest a full 9 wire PLUS shield cable, 
bonding the shield at both ends to the device/computer chassis via the 
connector housing.  You may need some ferrite too, to be determined.


HNY,
Rick NHC

On 12/30/2015 11:57 AM, Cliff Frescura wrote:

8 ft is not true for rs-232.  Depends on type of cable and baud rate.  50ft is 
generally fine and can go up to hundreds of feet.  Maybe you are thinking about 
usb.

73,

Cliff K3LL

 Original message From: Mike va3mw  
Date:12/30/2015  11:32 AM  (GMT-08:00) To: Va3ied  Cc: 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft]

Remote KAT500 While the spec for serial is about 8ft, I run it much further in 
professional sports timing.

Give it a try and see if it works. If you can keep the baud rate down, that 
will help.

To really do it correctly, you will want to run rs232 to rs485 converters and 
that will certainly solve your problem.  Www.rs485.com has the bits you need.  
You can send serial like this thousands of meters.  We do this all the time.

It isn't as complicated as it sounds.

Mike va3mw




On Dec 30, 2015, at 9:47 AM, Va3ied  wrote:

My tower and garden shed are about 150 feet away. I have LMR400 buried inside
some PEX pipe. Would like to use the KAT500 inside the shed...not sure how
well a serial connection that distance would work!
scott va3ied



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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-12-30 Thread Jack Brindle
At one time the RS-232 spec did have a distance rating (probably in the RS232A 
time frame, it was at least 100 feet as I recall). By the C revision, this was 
replaced by cable capacitance that the driver could feed. In practice RS-232 
can regularly drive several hundred feet of cable, depending on the data rate. 
The problem in all this is the driver in use. If the driver meets the EI-232 
spec, then there should be no problem. However, equipment that takes shortcuts 
(0-5V swings for example) are probably meant to just connect to something next 
to it.

Thus the real answer is, “try it.” If communications is flakey you may need to 
lower the data rate, but most likely you will be able to find a setting that 
works.
Let us know what you find!

- Jack, W6FB


> On Dec 30, 2015, at 11:57 AM, Cliff Frescura  wrote:
> 
> 8 ft is not true for rs-232.  Depends on type of cable and baud rate.  50ft 
> is generally fine and can go up to hundreds of feet.  Maybe you are thinking 
> about usb.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Cliff K3LL
> 
>  Original message From: Mike va3mw 
>  Date:12/30/2015  11:32 AM  (GMT-08:00) 
> To: Va3ied  Cc: 
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500 
> 
> While the spec for serial is about 8ft, I run it much further in 
> professional sports timing. 
> 
> Give it a try and see if it works. If you can keep the baud rate down, that 
> will help. 
> 
> To really do it correctly, you will want to run rs232 to rs485 converters and 
> that will certainly solve your problem.  Www.rs485.com has the bits you need. 
>  You can send serial like this thousands of meters.  We do this all the time. 
> 
> It isn't as complicated as it sounds. 
> 
> Mike va3mw
> 
> 
> 
>> On Dec 30, 2015, at 9:47 AM, Va3ied  wrote:
>> 
>> My tower and garden shed are about 150 feet away. I have LMR400 buried inside
>> some PEX pipe. Would like to use the KAT500 inside the shed...not sure how
>> well a serial connection that distance would work!
>> scott va3ied
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> View this message in context: 
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Remote-KAT500-tp7604849p7612014.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-12-30 Thread Cliff Frescura
8 ft is not true for rs-232.  Depends on type of cable and baud rate.  50ft is 
generally fine and can go up to hundreds of feet.  Maybe you are thinking about 
usb.

73,

Cliff K3LL

 Original message From: Mike va3mw 
 Date:12/30/2015  11:32 AM  (GMT-08:00) 
To: Va3ied  Cc: 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500 

While the spec for serial is about 8ft, I run it much further in 
professional sports timing. 

Give it a try and see if it works. If you can keep the baud rate down, that 
will help. 

To really do it correctly, you will want to run rs232 to rs485 converters and 
that will certainly solve your problem.  Www.rs485.com has the bits you need.  
You can send serial like this thousands of meters.  We do this all the time. 

It isn't as complicated as it sounds. 

Mike va3mw



> On Dec 30, 2015, at 9:47 AM, Va3ied  wrote:
> 
> My tower and garden shed are about 150 feet away. I have LMR400 buried inside
> some PEX pipe. Would like to use the KAT500 inside the shed...not sure how
> well a serial connection that distance would work!
> scott va3ied
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Remote-KAT500-tp7604849p7612014.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-12-30 Thread Mike va3mw
While the spec for serial is about 8ft, I run it much further in professional 
sports timing. 

Give it a try and see if it works. If you can keep the baud rate down, that 
will help. 

To really do it correctly, you will want to run rs232 to rs485 converters and 
that will certainly solve your problem.  Www.rs485.com has the bits you need.  
You can send serial like this thousands of meters.  We do this all the time. 

It isn't as complicated as it sounds. 

Mike va3mw



> On Dec 30, 2015, at 9:47 AM, Va3ied  wrote:
> 
> My tower and garden shed are about 150 feet away. I have LMR400 buried inside
> some PEX pipe. Would like to use the KAT500 inside the shed...not sure how
> well a serial connection that distance would work!
> scott va3ied
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Remote-KAT500-tp7604849p7612014.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-12-30 Thread Ken K6MR
A couple of possibilities:

Use a USB/Serial converter at the tuner end and employ a USB over CAT5 extender 
device/cable to get there. CAT5 cable is cheap. There are also RS422/RS232 
converters out there. RS422 is good for about 4000 feet as I remember and the 
converters are not very expensive.

More expensive but more flexible is a run of duplex fiber optic cable with 
fiber/Ethernet converters on each end. I use this method and run the fiber in 
the same conduit as the coaxes between the radios and the tuners/amps. Fiber of 
course ensures no radiated noise. Plus if you want to control something else at 
the far end it’s easy to expand.

Ken K6MR


From: Va3ied
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 06:48
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

My tower and garden shed are about 150 feet away. I have LMR400 buried inside
some PEX pipe. Would like to use the KAT500 inside the shed...not sure how
well a serial connection that distance would work!
scott va3ied



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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-12-30 Thread Va3ied
My tower and garden shed are about 150 feet away. I have LMR400 buried inside
some PEX pipe. Would like to use the KAT500 inside the shed...not sure how
well a serial connection that distance would work!
scott va3ied



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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-12-29 Thread Ken K6MR
Are you using the KAT500 Remote program? Mine are only 15 feet away in a 
closet, but I never have to touch the units. They are connected using an IP to 
Serial converter. Works perfect.

Ken K6MR




From: Va3ied
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 18:17
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

Has there been progress on this? I have the luck to have a garden shed at 
the base of my tower with 12. Volt powerit all works in principle and in
practice...just a bit of a pain to run back and forth when there is a fault
or other issue. Kind of reminds me of watching green acres as a
kid...remember when he had to climb the pole to answer the phone? 





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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-12-29 Thread Va3ied
Has there been progress on this? I have the luck to have a garden shed at 
the base of my tower with 12. Volt powerit all works in principle and in
practice...just a bit of a pain to run back and forth when there is a fault
or other issue. Kind of reminds me of watching green acres as a
kid...remember when he had to climb the pole to answer the phone? 





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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-07-12 Thread ab2tc
Hi,

Well, MFJ is MFJ but Elecraft is Elecraft. I doubt very much that any MFJ
tuner will have much success in matching a 15 or 20:1 SWR which a vertical
like that will have on some bands. Here is a couple of pictures of my
installation which has survived 2 CNY winters without any degradation:

http://ab2tc.com/IMG_0181.jpg
http://ab2tc.com/IMG_0179.jpg

My G5RV is about 15:1 on 10m. I have a resonant 10m dipole up at greater
height than the G5RV but the G5RV almost always wins. Of course the G5RV has
many deep nulls but outside of those it's always the better antenna so the
loss in the tuner, even at that SWR, can not be that bad.

The installation is straight forward. There is no AUX cable connection to
the K3. I control the tuner using the PC utility through a WiFi serial
server. I used an Ethernet serial server for a while, but it was much worse
for birdies and I didn't like the need foe another cable to the site. Right
now, just power and one coax. BTW the gray box is a switch box for 4 more
antennas controlled by the 2nd channel on the serial server. Feel free to
contact me on E-mail. My address is good on QRZ.com.

I have many previous postings on here about this installation so a search
for AB2TC will reveal those. Some older picture links no longer work because
my server address has changed. Just replace the server name, whatever it is,
with ab2tc.com/ and it should work

AB2TC - Knut


Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA wrote
> Fred, 
> Wouldn't it be easier to just buy something like one of MFJ's remote
> tuners that are built exactly for the job you want your KAT500 to do?
> If I had a KAT500, I don't think I'd want my $700 Elecraft auto tuner left
> outside, where it was never meant to be. (Even if it was in a sealed,
> water-proof container).
> (And yes, I use a MFJ remote ATU for my portable Vertical.)
> 
> Jeff C. VK4XA
> k6dgw wrote
>> I'd like to hear from anyone who has remoted a KAT500 out to the base of 
>> a vertical.  We're moving to an HOA community.  The HOA appears to be 
>> quite benign and benevolent, I'm planning on a flag pole [with a flag on 
>> good wx days] in the backyard, with an insulator at the bottom where I'd 
>> like to remote my KAT500 in a wx-proof box.  I'll probably power it 
>> through the same conduit that carries the coax.  It would not be 
>> connected to the K3 of course.
>> 
>> I'd like to run it in MAN mode as I do now.  If I start in AUTO and step 
>> through all the band segments, will it learn the settings, and just 
>> recall them as soon as it senses RF?
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Fred K6DGW
>> - Northern California Contest Club
>> - CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
>> - www.cqp.org





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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-07-11 Thread Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA
Fred, 
Wouldn't it be easier to just buy something like one of MFJ's remote tuners
that are built exactly for the job you want your KAT500 to do?
If I had a KAT500, I don't think I'd want my $700 Elecraft auto tuner left
outside, where it was never meant to be. (Even if it was in a sealed,
water-proof container).
(And yes, I use a MFJ remote ATU for my portable Vertical.)

Jeff C. VK4XA

k6dgw wrote
> I'd like to hear from anyone who has remoted a KAT500 out to the base of 
> a vertical.  We're moving to an HOA community.  The HOA appears to be 
> quite benign and benevolent, I'm planning on a flag pole [with a flag on 
> good wx days] in the backyard, with an insulator at the bottom where I'd 
> like to remote my KAT500 in a wx-proof box.  I'll probably power it 
> through the same conduit that carries the coax.  It would not be 
> connected to the K3 of course.
> 
> I'd like to run it in MAN mode as I do now.  If I start in AUTO and step 
> through all the band segments, will it learn the settings, and just 
> recall them as soon as it senses RF?
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
> - www.cqp.org





-
Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA
Innisfail, QLD, Australia.
K3 #4767

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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-07-11 Thread Jim Brown

On Sat,7/11/2015 2:41 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
I'd like to run it in MAN mode as I do now.  If I start in AUTO and 
step through all the band segments, will it learn the settings, and 
just recall them as soon as it senses RF?


Yes, as long as it remains in MAN mode.

73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-07-11 Thread Fred Jensen
I'd like to hear from anyone who has remoted a KAT500 out to the base of 
a vertical.  We're moving to an HOA community.  The HOA appears to be 
quite benign and benevolent, I'm planning on a flag pole [with a flag on 
good wx days] in the backyard, with an insulator at the bottom where I'd 
like to remote my KAT500 in a wx-proof box.  I'll probably power it 
through the same conduit that carries the coax.  It would not be 
connected to the K3 of course.


I'd like to run it in MAN mode as I do now.  If I start in AUTO and step 
through all the band segments, will it learn the settings, and just 
recall them as soon as it senses RF?


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org
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[Elecraft] Remote KAT500

2015-01-31 Thread Wes (N7WS)

About 2 1/2 years ago Wayne wrote:

"It may be possible to remote the KAT500 with additional control
firmware and an appropriate weather-proof enclosure. We haven't done
any testing of this idea yet, but once we start shipping KAT500s,
we'll work with a few customers who want to experiment with this to
see what we can do to facilitate it."

Did anything ever come of this?  I've been considering it.  The enclosure should 
be no problem.  It looks like a 12" x 12" NEMA box will hold it.


However, I don't want to rely on reading frequency to switch antennas.  I have 
enough trouble with faulting the KAT or KPA now with AUX Bus control and having 
to punch some button or another to get everything back online. I definitely want 
some direct connection to allow fault recovery.  It's about 150' to my tower.  
For direct control how much wire can be tolerated, either Serial or Aux?


Wes  N7WS
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