Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Bill Frantz]

The problem comes with very small wire. I just acquired a YS-60 
watt meter in a trade and it has wires that are too small for 
the 15A pins. My solution was solder.


For high power connections, over 30A if I remember correctly, 
the National Electric Code frowns on solder because they are 
concerned that a bad joint will have high resistance, heat up, 
and melt the solder. I keep this item in mind when I do high 
power connections.


Also, don't hesitate to use a magnifier to check that the 
connector is completely over the spring. I had a APP connector 
that exhibited the "doesn't stay connected" and "high 
resistance" behaviors. I wasn't until I used a magnifier that I 
could see it wasn't assembled correctly. A strong push with a 
small screwdriver fixed it.


As a note for RigRunner users, DXEngineering has low value ATC 
fuses in 1A, 2A, and 3A. Mine are on a slow freight coming to California.


Cheers - Bill, AE6JV

On 12/11/13 at 9:52 AM, j...@jtmiller.com (Jim Miller) wrote:


I prefer to have an assortment of pins: 15a, 30a, 45a. They're cheap so why
take shortcuts?


-
Bill Frantz| Airline peanut bag: "Produced  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | in a facility that processes   | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | peanuts and other nuts." - Duh | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Jim Miller]

I prefer to have an assortment of pins: 15a, 30a, 45a. They're cheap so why
take shortcuts?

jim ab3cv


fill connector barrel with wire before crimping smaller than #12.
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[ac5p]

I can vouch for the Tricrimp tool sold by West Mountain Radio.  It appears the 
same as PowerWerx in photos. 
Does NOT add to diameter of barrel when crimped as soldering might.  Good point 
made by Don below; fill connector barrel with wire before crimping smaller than 
#12.  
I think cost new less than $50?
73, Mike/ac5p
 


 From: Don Wilhelm 
To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 8:00 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement
  

Charlie,

The PowerWerx crimper is good.  Just be certain to fill the cavity with wire - 
for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if the wire is 
smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the barrel with as many 
wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra security.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/11/2013 7:33 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
> OK, I see APP crimpers available from $10 to over $500.  How much would you 
> expect to pay for a "really good" crimp tool?
> 
> Not trying to be snarky, I just need an honest answer.  Some people say 
> regular pliers will work, but I would think this isn't the best solution.
> 
> Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy it?. Hint: 
> I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio is worth to use 
> these things.
> 
> Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's?
> 
> Feel free to reply off-list to hold down the bandwidth.  (pincon at erols dot 
> com)
> 
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
> 
> 
> - Original Message ----- From: "Jim Brown" 
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 11:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement
> 
> 
>> On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
>>> I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with no 
>>> problems at all
>> 
>> Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I use them 
>> not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that gets powered from 
>> low voltage DC.
>> 
>>> - all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the APP 
>>> route, buy a really good crimp tool)
>> 
>> All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the red, 
>> black, and green shells and all three sizes of  inserts in quantity. I use 
>> the green ones for chassis bonding.
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Don Wilhelm]

Charlie,

The PowerWerx crimper is good.  Just be certain to fill the cavity with 
wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if 
the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the 
barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra 
security.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/11/2013 7:33 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
OK, I see APP crimpers available from $10 to over $500.  How much 
would you expect to pay for a "really good" crimp tool?


Not trying to be snarky, I just need an honest answer.  Some people 
say regular pliers will work, but I would think this isn't the best 
solution.


Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy 
it?. Hint: I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio 
is worth to use these things.


Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's?

Feel free to reply off-list to hold down the bandwidth.  (pincon at 
erols dot com)


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - From: "Jim Brown" 


To: 
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement



On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with 
no problems at all


Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I 
use them not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that 
gets powered from low voltage DC.


- all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go 
the APP route, buy a really good crimp tool)


All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the 
red, black, and green shells and all three sizes of  inserts in 
quantity. I use the green ones for chassis bonding.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Richard Thorne]

Charlie,

The crimpers sold by DX Engineering, Powerwerx, West Mountain Radio and 
others are in the $40 range and work very well.  You can also get other 
dies for crimping pl-259's and other type connectors.  Its a very 
versatile tool.


An example 
http://www.powerwerx.com/crimping-tools/tricrimp-crimping-powerpole-contacts.html


Rich - N5ZC


On 12/11/2013 6:33 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
OK, I see APP crimpers available from $10 to over $500.  How much 
would you expect to pay for a "really good" crimp tool?


Not trying to be snarky, I just need an honest answer.  Some people 
say regular pliers will work, but I would think this isn't the best 
solution.


Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy 
it?. Hint: I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio 
is worth to use these things.


Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's?

Feel free to reply off-list to hold down the bandwidth.  (pincon at 
erols dot com)


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - From: "Jim Brown" 


To: 
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement



On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with 
no problems at all


Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I 
use them not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that 
gets powered from low voltage DC.


- all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go 
the APP route, buy a really good crimp tool)


All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the 
red, black, and green shells and all three sizes of  inserts in 
quantity. I use the green ones for chassis bonding.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Larry Ewan]

Charlie,

No need to spend a lot.  These are as close to bulletproof connections as
you get and you can get compatible jaws or a ton of connectors. Comes with
jaws for 15/30/45 amp APPs.

http://www.powerwerx.com/crimping-tools/tricrimp-crimping-powerpole-contact
s.html

Larry N9JY
--

>
>Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy it?.
>Hint: I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio is worth
>to 
>use these things.
>
>Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

OK, I see APP crimpers available from $10 to over $500.  How much would you 
expect to pay for a "really good" crimp tool?


Not trying to be snarky, I just need an honest answer.  Some people say 
regular pliers will work, but I would think this isn't the best solution.


Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy it?. 
Hint: I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio is worth to 
use these things.


Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's?

Feel free to reply off-list to hold down the bandwidth.  (pincon at erols 
dot com)


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Brown" 

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement



On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with no 
problems at all


Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I use 
them not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that gets 
powered from low voltage DC.


- all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the 
APP route, buy a really good crimp tool)


All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the red, 
black, and green shells and all three sizes of  inserts in quantity. I use 
the green ones for chassis bonding.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[F5vjc]

Powerpoles are entirely suited to purpose, if (of course) fitted correctly.

If connectors are pulling apart and they are fitted correctly, there is
obviously far too much pull stress on the connecting cable, which must be
relieved by some means.

Simple...'just do it'.

73,  F5VJC


On 11 December 2013 05:45, Jim Brown  wrote:

> On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
>
>> I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with no
>> problems at all
>>
>
> Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I use
> them not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that gets
> powered from low voltage DC.
>
>
>  - all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the
>> APP route, buy a really good crimp tool)
>>
>
> All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the red,
> black, and green shells and all three sizes of  inserts in quantity. I use
> the green ones for chassis bonding.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Jim Brown]

On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with no problems 
at all


Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I use 
them not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that gets 
powered from low voltage DC.



- all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the APP 
route, buy a really good crimp tool)


All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the red, 
black, and green shells and all three sizes of  inserts in quantity. I 
use the green ones for chassis bonding.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Stephen Roberts]

Yes, a proper crimp is important especially if you're using smaller ga wire. If 
that's the case folding the wire over enough that it fills the connector is a 
good idea, then a good healthy crimp. If the connection will not suffer any 
repeated flexings, I also solder mine just to make sure when wire is less than 
18ga.

72/73
Steve

-
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT
http://www.kx3helper.com
Fists, CW OPS, QRP ARCI, SKCC, NEQRP, NAQCC, FP, ARRL, Green Mountain Wireless 
Society
(802)779-7489 (cell)









On Dec 9, 2013, at 12:12 PM, EricJ wrote:

> I agree with this advice about using the crimper and would add one other 
> important thing. The crimp tension is adjustable on the "approved" crimper. 
> Too light and obviously you don't get proper "welding" between connector and 
> wire. But too tight and you distort the crimp. Both can prevent fully seating 
> the contact in the housing. And the connector doesn't do it's job unless it 
> is fully seated. I always listen for the click, then inspect it visually. 
> I've found APPs to be very reliable when all the details are attended to, 
> including periodically checking crimp tension.
> 
> Eric
> KE6US
> 
> On 12/8/2013 7:32 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
>> 
>> I did buy the "approved" crimper, and I did learn how to use it. I've never 
>> had a failure.  Learning how to use the crimper was not a slam-dunk, I 
>> realized finally that exact positioning in the crimper and exact orientation 
>> of the wire was critical. 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[EricJ]

I agree with this advice about using the crimper and would add one other 
important thing. The crimp tension is adjustable on the "approved" 
crimper. Too light and obviously you don't get proper "welding" between 
connector and wire. But too tight and you distort the crimp. Both can 
prevent fully seating the contact in the housing. And the connector 
doesn't do it's job unless it is fully seated. I always listen for the 
click, then inspect it visually. I've found APPs to be very reliable 
when all the details are attended to, including periodically checking 
crimp tension.


Eric
KE6US

On 12/8/2013 7:32 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:


I did buy the "approved" crimper, and I did learn how to use it. I've 
never had a failure.  Learning how to use the crimper was not a 
slam-dunk, I realized finally that exact positioning in the crimper 
and exact orientation of the wire was critical. 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Pete Smith N4ZR]

I have Jones plugs on my antenna entry panel, for rotators, etc.  When 
something starts getting flakey, I look at the first - I should by stock 
in CAIG Labs!  Oddly, plain old DIN plugs are much more reliable here.


73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network at
http://reversebeacon.net,
blog at reversebeacon.blogspot.com.
For spots, please go to your favorite
ARC V6 or VE7CC DX cluster node.

On 12/9/2013 9:07 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
I'd take good old Jones Plugs any day over APP's, for all factors, 
current rating, ease of use, reliability, cost AND re-usability.


Soldered connections (no crimps) and they have simple locking ears 
that are easier to use than the Molex squeezer.


But then again, I'm a dinosaur wishing for a situation that will never 
be (kinda like our country now).


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - From: "Don Wilhelm" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 12:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement



Jeff,

I am not sure what your circumstances are, but I have found that the 
APP connectors are more durable than the Molex connectors typically 
used by the YakIcKenwood gear.


Perhaps you do not have any slack in the cables, and any movement of 
either the cable or the gear will create a force sufficient to 
separate the connector.  A bit of slack in the cable should prevent 
that condition.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/8/2013 10:42 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:
On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 13:01:06 +1000, Don Wilhelm 
 wrote:

Hi Don,
Thanks for the reply but I'm talking about Elecraft factory 
installed APP's both in the radio and on the cable.


I have also made my own cables using genuine and non-genuine APP's 
and they are exactly the same, they will NOT stay together under 
actual portable operating conditions.


Upon inspection through a magnifying glass all connectors I have 
here are indeed assembled correctly and this is the SECOND K3 I've 
with similar issues. (The first radio I had owned from new (#4257))


In the case of my first K3 it would overheat the connectors that 
were soldered into the PCB!
Granted it had an issue with extremely poor soldering of the 
connectors but the fact remains that on that radio and the one I 
presently own, the APP's are not up to snuff.
They just do not grip each other well enough to cope with the 
rigours of operating portable in the bush and other adverse 
environments.
Hence my desire to change out the APP's and go for something that is 
considerably tougher.


I've also had a few emails off the list so far that are also 
detailing similar issues and doubts with APP's and I have no doubt 
that I will be getting more.


I guess that I've found the reason why APP's are not an approved 
connector for any emergency gear by any emergency authority in any 
country as they are just too unreliable.


As I live in an area that regularly gets cyclones (hurricanes) and 
flooding each year I want be be able to rely on my gear in case of 
an emergency as well as my normal day to day operations, therefore I 
really want to ditch these unreliable connectors and get something 
decent installed.


So my question stands, what are my alternatives?




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I'd take good old Jones Plugs any day over APP's, for all factors, current 
rating, ease of use, reliability, cost AND re-usability.


Soldered connections (no crimps) and they have simple locking ears that are 
easier to use than the Molex squeezer.


But then again, I'm a dinosaur wishing for a situation that will never be 
(kinda like our country now).


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: "Don Wilhelm" 

To: 
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 12:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement



Jeff,

I am not sure what your circumstances are, but I have found that the APP 
connectors are more durable than the Molex connectors typically used by 
the YakIcKenwood gear.


Perhaps you do not have any slack in the cables, and any movement of 
either the cable or the gear will create a force sufficient to separate 
the connector.  A bit of slack in the cable should prevent that condition.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/8/2013 10:42 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:
On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 13:01:06 +1000, Don Wilhelm  
wrote:

Hi Don,
Thanks for the reply but I'm talking about Elecraft factory installed 
APP's both in the radio and on the cable.


I have also made my own cables using genuine and non-genuine APP's and 
they are exactly the same, they will NOT stay together under actual 
portable operating conditions.


Upon inspection through a magnifying glass all connectors I have here are 
indeed assembled correctly and this is the SECOND K3 I've with similar 
issues. (The first radio I had owned from new (#4257))


In the case of my first K3 it would overheat the connectors that were 
soldered into the PCB!
Granted it had an issue with extremely poor soldering of the connectors 
but the fact remains that on that radio and the one I presently own, the 
APP's are not up to snuff.
They just do not grip each other well enough to cope with the rigours of 
operating portable in the bush and other adverse environments.
Hence my desire to change out the APP's and go for something that is 
considerably tougher.


I've also had a few emails off the list so far that are also detailing 
similar issues and doubts with APP's and I have no doubt that I will be 
getting more.


I guess that I've found the reason why APP's are not an approved 
connector for any emergency gear by any emergency authority in any 
country as they are just too unreliable.


As I live in an area that regularly gets cyclones (hurricanes) and 
flooding each year I want be be able to rely on my gear in case of an 
emergency as well as my normal day to day operations, therefore I really 
want to ditch these unreliable connectors and get something decent 
installed.


So my question stands, what are my alternatives?




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Paul Grigorieff]

It might be helpful to mention these well-illustrated assembly
instructionsfor the Powerpoles.
 I have only installed five pairs or so, and each time
I have to go look at the pictures to get it right (plus pulling out my
dental tools to tamp the connector down into the housing).  But they seem
to hold very solidly for me.  I crimp the conductors with pliers (no
assembly tool).
  -Paul, N1HEL


On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 5:45 PM, Jeff Cochrane  wrote:

> Hi everyone,
> Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's with
> something else?
> (Something like the 4 pin plugs and sockets that are fitted to most
> current YaeComWoods I guess)
> Why do I want to replace them you ask?
> Well, because my K3 gets around and more often than not sits on a wobbly
> table whilst I'm out in the scrub or occasionally even sits in my lap
> whilst I'm operating.
> The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and keep
> disconnecting or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.
> I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, sadly
> that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson powerpoles or all
> the different brands of knock-offs.
>
>
>
> Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA
> East Innisfail
> QLD, Australia
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-- 
Paul
N1HEL
Half Moon Bay, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

Hi Jeff, I can see others have said the same thing, but I'll add my 2p worth - 
it's your APP assembly that is the problem. Not likely to be the K3 end (but 
possible), it's the cable end and there is one major cause: 

The contacts have not been pushed completely home during assembly. 

If the contacts have been soldered, it's possible the solder has spread across 
the contact in such a way as to prevent the contact being pushed completely 
home.

Never had a problem with the cable pulling out of the K3s APPs and not had to 
secure it in any way.

I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with no problems 
at all - all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the 
APP route, buy a really good crimp tool). I replaced the intermittent molex 
connector on my FT-857 with APPs and stopped all the problems with the rig 
cutting out use. That rig was moved from a base rig to a portable rig and back 
again every week and I've never had a problem with the APPs.

73 de David, M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108)
-- 
The ostrich roams the great Sahara. Its mouth is wide, its neck is narra.
It has such long and lofty legs, I'm glad it sits to lay its eggs. 
- Ogden Nash (1902-1971)

On 9 Dec 2013, at 01:45, Jeff Cochrane wrote:

> Hi everyone,
> Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's with 
> something else?
> (Something like the 4 pin plugs and sockets that are fitted to most current 
> YaeComWoods I guess)
> Why do I want to replace them you ask?
> Well, because my K3 gets around and more often than not sits on a wobbly 
> table whilst I'm out in the scrub or occasionally even sits in my lap whilst 
> I'm operating.
> The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and keep disconnecting 
> or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.
> I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, sadly that 
> has not been the case with either genuine Anderson powerpoles or all the 
> different brands of knock-offs.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Don Wilhelm]

Jeff,

I am not sure what your circumstances are, but I have found that the APP 
connectors are more durable than the Molex connectors typically used by 
the YakIcKenwood gear.


Perhaps you do not have any slack in the cables, and any movement of 
either the cable or the gear will create a force sufficient to separate 
the connector.  A bit of slack in the cable should prevent that condition.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/8/2013 10:42 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:
On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 13:01:06 +1000, Don Wilhelm  
wrote:

Hi Don,
Thanks for the reply but I'm talking about Elecraft factory installed 
APP's both in the radio and on the cable.


I have also made my own cables using genuine and non-genuine APP's and 
they are exactly the same, they will NOT stay together under actual 
portable operating conditions.


Upon inspection through a magnifying glass all connectors I have here 
are indeed assembled correctly and this is the SECOND K3 I've with 
similar issues. (The first radio I had owned from new (#4257))


In the case of my first K3 it would overheat the connectors that were 
soldered into the PCB!
Granted it had an issue with extremely poor soldering of the 
connectors but the fact remains that on that radio and the one I 
presently own, the APP's are not up to snuff.
They just do not grip each other well enough to cope with the rigours 
of operating portable in the bush and other adverse environments.
Hence my desire to change out the APP's and go for something that is 
considerably tougher.


I've also had a few emails off the list so far that are also detailing 
similar issues and doubts with APP's and I have no doubt that I will 
be getting more.


I guess that I've found the reason why APP's are not an approved 
connector for any emergency gear by any emergency authority in any 
country as they are just too unreliable.


As I live in an area that regularly gets cyclones (hurricanes) and 
flooding each year I want be be able to rely on my gear in case of an 
emergency as well as my normal day to day operations, therefore I 
really want to ditch these unreliable connectors and get something 
decent installed.


So my question stands, what are my alternatives?




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Bill Conkling]

If the PP is not correctly assembled, just immobilizing the connection will
not solve the underlying poor connection.  As Don said, they should be
correctly assembled first.  If you still have problems, then immobilizing
the connector may be appropriate.

...bill  nr4c

-Original Message-
From: Rick Bates [mailto:happymooseph...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2013 10:03 PM
To: vk...@arrl.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

Rather than all that effort, why not use a screw hole style zip tie to
anchor it to your grounding point on the back of the radio?  That way, if it
gets moved, it pulls on the tie, not the connector.

73 es Happy Christmas,
Rick wa6nhc

-Original Message-
From: Jeff Cochrane

Hi everyone,
Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's with  
something else?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I grabbed a strain gauge and checked powerpole connectors on two different
locations. Both required more than 4 lbs of force to separate them! So you
cannot actually pick up a fully loaded K3 without the plug disengaging, but
darn close to it.

Something is wrong with your APP connectors. I don't know what might provide
a more secure connection other than a screw-on Cannon connector.  

73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Cochrane
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2013 5:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

Hi everyone,
Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's with
something else?
(Something like the 4 pin plugs and sockets that are fitted to most current
YaeComWoods I guess) Why do I want to replace them you ask?
Well, because my K3 gets around and more often than not sits on a wobbly
table whilst I'm out in the scrub or occasionally even sits in my lap whilst
I'm operating.
The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and keep disconnecting
or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.
I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, sadly
that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson powerpoles or all
the different brands of knock-offs.



Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA
East Innisfail
QLD, Australia
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Fred Jensen]

On 12/8/2013 5:45 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:

Hi everyone,
Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's
with something else?


No, so far no reason to.


(Something like the 4 pin plugs and sockets that are fitted to most
current YaeComWoods I guess)


I've had them, they were no more reliable for me than APP's.


Why do I want to replace them you ask?
Well, because my K3 gets around and more often than not sits on a wobbly
table whilst I'm out in the scrub or occasionally even sits in my lap
whilst I'm operating. The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and 
keep
disconnecting or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.


I do SOTA activations with my K2 [APP's between it and the battery], and 
I've never, ever, had them disconnect before I pulled them out.  I've 
carried the radio around with the battery hanging from the pigtail and 
the coax-power connector comes out first.  In truth, I've never, ever, 
had an APP disconnect on me when I wasn't expecting it ... and no, 
Anderson PP do not send me money for this.


I did buy the "approved" crimper, and I did learn how to use it.  I've 
never had a failure.  Learning how to use the crimper was not a 
slam-dunk, I realized finally that exact positioning in the crimper and 
exact orientation of the wire was critical.



I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, sadly
that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson powerpoles or
all the different brands of knock-offs.


Knock-off's ... you get what you pay for.  I have used Chinese PL-259's, 
won't ever again, they are knockoffs, and they are hugely unreliable. 
And while Amphenol has not paid me to say this either, that's all I'll 
use.  Has nothing to do with "Made in America," and everything to do 
with what really works ... and doesn't fail when you need it.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Rick Bates]

Rather than all that effort, why not use a screw hole style zip tie to
anchor it to your grounding point on the back of the radio?  That way, if it
gets moved, it pulls on the tie, not the connector.

73 es Happy Christmas,
Rick wa6nhc

-Original Message-
From: Jeff Cochrane

Hi everyone,
Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's with  
something else?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Don Wilhelm]

Jeff,

Take a look at your Power Pole connectors - peer at them from the 
"business end".
If the blade of the silver-metal contact is not firmly latched over the 
spring finger in the housing (you should not see the spring finger 
exposed), then the connector is not properly assembled.  Give the 
contact a generous push with a screwdriver or other instrument until the 
blade clicks over the spring finger retaining tab.


A properly assembled APP connector has good holding power, but an 
improperly assembled one will not have adequate retention, and may 
actually overheat with high resistive contact points.


73,
W3FPR

On 12/8/2013 8:45 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:

Hi everyone,
Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's 
with something else?
(Something like the 4 pin plugs and sockets that are fitted to most 
current YaeComWoods I guess)

Why do I want to replace them you ask?
Well, because my K3 gets around and more often than not sits on a 
wobbly table whilst I'm out in the scrub or occasionally even sits in 
my lap whilst I'm operating.
The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and keep 
disconnecting or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.
I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, 
sadly that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson 
powerpoles or all the different brands of knock-offs.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Phil Kane]

On 12/8/2013 5:45 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:

> The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and keep
> disconnecting or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.
> I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, sadly
> that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson powerpoles or
> all the different brands of knock-offs.

I have been using Powerpoles on my Elecraft and all other 12V devices in
this extensive radio room and *when made correctly* I have never
experienced that.  Note the emphasis.

Do we need to open this barrel of snakes again?

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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